Pressed wheel bearing replacement (without a press...)
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2013
- The bearing is 24 years old and has 155 000 kms.
It was quite easy thanks to a "special" trick.
No press used : ) and the only annoying task was to remove the outer race with a hammer and a chisel. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Spot on video..tried it today and it worked.
Heat the brake drum on 200c for one hour..freeze the bearing overnight then when the drum is ready drop the bearing in..i had no issies with any grease being cooked as i cooled the bearing with cool air
: )
If there's different break drum are shown ok
@LindaStevensBZ drums can hit temps above 150c (and fairly easily into the 250c range) in normal operation, I agree that you shouldn't heat them up too much to drop a bearing in, but the bearings and their grease are designed for high temperature operation. By design brakes get extremely hot. heating drum + freezing bearing is common practice where a press isn't available.
@LindaStevensBZ I’ve been doing this for 30 years, change my bearings every 100k’s. I drive rough off-road, and constantly speed on the roads, never had one fail. 200c won’t hurt the longevity of the cast iron hub, I’ve done over 460k with my hilux. Mechanics are rip off crooks anyway
@@sivamanir9812 és
Excellent video. No annoying commentary, straight to the point and getting it done... Thankyou for not mucking around and putting dribble, stupid music or writing all over the screen and showing a clear way of doing it.
Thank you very much,i'm happy to read that : )
I had the biggest grin on my face when I saw the bearing just drop in like that. That is too awesome. Many kudos! :)
Thanks : )
Yeah,it's so cool to see that go to the bottom so quick !!
what is kudos?
People always frown on this technique from a DIY perspective 'you will damage the bearing blah blah blah'.
I'm a forklift engineer (all on site at customers premises)
You have to use your head and utilise what's around you.
Few realise that in heavy industry this is how BIG bearings are fitted all day every day - they even have special bearing heaters! But they are silly expensive, oven set at about 100-120c works just fine!
Top job man! 👍
Thank you : )
Brilliant video but annoying that so many people that don't know what their talking about make negative comments. So much so I've just been outside to read the spec on a tube of grease -35c -+120c operating temp with a melting point of 190c and thats basic multi purpose lithium based grease I use for everything including bearings.So a drum at 200c and a bearing at -18c can't imagine that bearing grease got even close to melting point before the drum had cooled. And really some of you think 200c is hot for a brake,I had a slightly sticking handbrake on my car and have seen the disc glowing at night without any adverse affect.
And as for tightening the bearing ,its not a tapered bearing on a tapered shaft so it needs to be done up very tight,there is no adjustment on this type of bearing so it cannot be overtightened ,however I do not personaly like the use of airguns for tightening anything as it is easy to cross -thread withought realising,but thats just me.Yes it is probably correct to press the bearing out and in,but thats not always possible,so much of "real" mechanics is about improvising and problem solving . If your having trouble doing something you want to go on youtube to find a way round a problem, not watch a video of someone useing a piece of equipment you don't have.
Once again brilliant video highlighting the use of temperature expansion and contraction to one's advantage .
Thank you very much.
I can't do much about peoples and their negative comments except explaining.
Like you say,it's just easy as reading specs on products.
I should have measured temperatures with a infrared thermometer to show and learn myself.
I've worked for a shop in wich electric motors are rebuilt,and they have induction heaters to install bearings.
It's 110 °C : )
I use airgun only after starting the nut or screw by hand,but i agree,it's not that appropriate,particularly if aluminium is involved lol
You CAN'T cross thread it !!!! you *MUST* get it started by hand.
This heat one part and cool the other, depending if the bearing is internal or external fitment is standard procedure in the world of heavy industry when your fitting a 12" diameter bearing - no other practical way. Just have to keep temperatures within the greases range.
NEVER rest your hand on top of a tire while jacking. Met a guy who lost three fingers when it dropped, and the fender cut them right off!
Good advice.
I will remember that for sure.
Thank you : )
Brian Kirby Yeah, almost happened to a friend of mine luckily it didn't drop that too far down. Sounds awful though!
I was thinking the same... The moment of jacking the car up has the most risk of having it drop, not really smart to put any limbs there. One should always keep in mind what will happen if the car falls; apparently the uploader doesn't do that - still something to learn.
Michaelovitch, you are perfect
.do not stop these videos you used your talent instead your press machine I respect you awesome video
This how we do many bearings in the aircraft industry. I just did this with front bearings on a 2001 Dodge Neon, worked like a charm. Saved myself a visit to a garage to use a press. Awesome job!
I'm very happy it worked for you too : )
Several peoples told me they used this way for aircraft.
Looks like it's popular in this profession because they have HUGE bearings and tight tolerances (i guess you don't mess with low quality machining on planes...)
Thank you : )
Thanks : )
Not grease added to the bearing itself.
It's a sealed unit pre-greased at the factory.
I've added a bit only on the spindle to slide the drum easily and avoid eventual rust.
: ) Thanks !
I was very surprised and happy,yes !
I thought i would have to press it, even just a bit, to install it but it worked quite well,i was very happy and relieved to not have to go in a mechanic shop.
I was not very confident but the dogs were here to support me they are soothing : )
Jamie Balousek - The weld shrinks the race as it cools, facilitating the hammer-chiseling on the lip of the race removal technique. Stay gold.
Just had the front passenger side wheel bearing replaced on a Ford Fusion 2007 SEL V6 using your method (did not have to use the kitchen, though) :). Thanks for your video, it did inspire me to do the job myself. Thanks a lot!
Kicking the ball bearing out was probably the slowest part, but nothing a 4 lb hammer could not do. Then, I used a propane torch to heat up the knuckle (was doing it for about 25-30 min) and the ball bearing spent about 3 hours in a freezer. Dropped the ball bearing inside the knuckle well and it hit the bottom with a clang. Perfect! In a few seconds there was no way to move the ball bearing by hand. I had the c-ring installed and then pressed in a new hub with a bolt and a few washers I purchased at Lowes for $4. No press, no mess, no other expenses, and no kitchen if it matters much :) Hope someone finds this info useful just as the video.
I'm very happy it worked for you this well : )
Thank you for your telling that here : )
Fantastic job on the car AND the edits!
Hi Mr Jafro !
Lol really ?
Shed engineering at its very best!
Limited resources with sound theory. I will follow your process but will have to wait till the wife goes out. She still hasn't forgiven me for cleaning a cylinder head in the dish washer.
Steve Y well thats one way to clean it
Steve Y I had 2 cam shafts on top of sink other day and a good few years ago I rebuild a Honda cub 90 engine on the kitchen side. it was very cold out side at the time. these things have to be done lol
Steve Y next time use your mother-in-laws, I’m sure that’ll get you some points🤙
Mine put a foot in my ass for melting lead on the stove!!! Castin' boolits!!!
I just did the trick in my two wheelbearings... Genious!
I noticed the bearing leaked a bit of oil while the drum cooled down (melted from the bearing), so keep in mind to use a compressed air gun to help the cooling!
Thanks for the words : )
Yes,be careful to not cook the bearing 's grease,it's the main concern : )
You will experience premature failure.
@@fuzznutz7182 Not if you get a syringe & squeeze the grease intor the rubber seal then wipe clean with degreaser & apply super glue to pin prick...
@@1950bobster
First of grease will not flow thru a syringe unless its liquified decreased detoioriatres rubber and so does super glue.
Nice try.
Degreaser
refreshing to see a good home mechanic at work... its too easy to part with our hard earned money to more and more expensive garages/franchises, well done sir i salute you... having only had to drift out bearings from alloy wheeled motorcycles i realise how hard if must have been in that iron brake hub...
Thank you.
I agree with your opinion on garages.
The work was not so difficult to push the bearing out.
A bit long compared to the others tasks but not so difficult because the bore was clean and smooth.
oil helped me a bit.
What was the motorcycles you worked on ?
Good video! I've heard of people doing this, but your video was most helpful in actually seeing someone do it.
Thank you : )
your videos are like relaxing therapy
+colj001
Thank you very much : )
I appreciate.
For me,it's diesel engines and about everything that can roll and make some noise.
colj001 gsto
Hi standard of service
Ho away
BILL HARPER
BILL H
ARPER
This is the method used when I use to build submersible slurry pumps. The bearings were ten times larger though. Don't listen to the hater know it all's. One word of advise though, don't heat the part up that much. 80 degrees or so should to it and then the bearing wont be damaged.
I'm interested by the temperatures and method you use.
do you cool down the bearings too with a freezer ?
michaelovitch When a bearing or any part is held in place without a mechanical fix its called an interference fit. This means one part is slightly bigger than the other. Every method is different depending on these tolerances. In my case it was the bearing that was heated(not too hot though about 80C) and put onto a shaft that was at ambient temperature. In other applications we cooled a part in liquid nitrogen to shrink it slightly.
steve b To answer your question about freezing the bearing. We never did but our applications did not require us to do so. As for freezing a bearing in a household freezer, I cant imagine it would cause any damage. If you look at the bearing specifications it is probably designed to operate at well below 0 and there are plenty of places around the world where cars operate in those temperatures(Canada, Alaska) for example.
steve b
Yes,no problems for cold and hot temps and bearings.
the standard wheel bearings can operate till around + 150°C
www.skf.com/group/products/bearings-units-housings/roller-bearings/tapered-roller-bearings/double-row-tapered-roller-bearings/influence-of-operating-temperature-on-bearing-material/index.html
did you measure on your bearings what was the benefit to heat up at 80 °C ?
it seems a really low temperature for thermal expansion effect.
nitrogen : two peoples told me they do the same on planes parts and turbines : )
michaelovitch That part for nitrogen is true. It is used in planes turbines. Two shafts are joined together this way: one shaft is hollow (it's pipe) and another shaft which is full cross section goes for about 15-20 cm into the hollow shaft. The hollow shaft inner diameter is less than the entering shafts outer diameter. So the full section shaft is being cooled in nitrogen at around -73 °C or something like that, can't remember for sure. The other one is of course being heated, but there are no bearings or to be more precise, lubricants that can get ruined during this process.
Cool video, michaelovitch... I'm an old wrencher and your video reminded me of the way I use to fix my cars when I was younger!
Thanks !
That "old trick" of yours is pure genius.
Nice one Michaelovitch.
:)
Thank you !
The kitchen is more useful than we could think... : )
damn! i try once to remove this bearing and give up after 10 minutes, inhuman work.
but now i got courage :D
thanks
: )
So,you won the battle ?
michaelovitch not now, but next time when i need to change it, be sure i do it my self, no service :D
thanks for uploading this video, i'm sure you helped a lot of people
Streulea Cristian
Thanks to you : )
Nu pot sa cred ca si in alte tari se lucreaza ca si in Romania :(
seba moldovan
I don't understand
The automatic translator is not very good....
Couple of large thick washers, a strong threaded bar and nuts, and a strong metal sleeve also works. ;)
Yes,good idea.
But to find so big washers....quite a job here.
michaelovitch If you can get your hands on some thickish steel plate, you could drill a hole and use a bench grinder to round off the outside. That would be just as good as washers. ;)
Stephen Ancell
Yes,it would be easier to do.
I try to keep timing belt tensionners and bearings,or their cages etc to use as tools or to grind to accomodate my needs.
The problem is the holes are not always centered on tensionners...lol
rollers would work but they are a bit smaller.
A steel plate is the best i think.
Today i tried pressing out a wheel bearing out of a brand new hub using a big vice which is essentially the same... and does not work. You need a hydraulic press which can do like 20 tonnes. In this video the uploader already demolished the old bearing quite a lot before hammering out the outer race. With a complete unharmed bearing, using a threaded bar and nuts will not work.
@@Engineer9736
Depends on how big the bearing is, I've used the nut bolt and washer method and I had success.
Thank you very much, this is an awesome video, more realistic compared to those other videos in a fully loaded shop with slide hammers and hydraulic shop presses.
+RareDiamond Ching
Thank you,i agree : )
hi, Michael. I am Beh from Malaysia. I found this is a very innovative way to apply those physics learnt in school. And this method is especially useful for diy people at home. Recently my car rear wheel has some freeplay + noise, and i wanted to replace the bearing using yr method. After some check, only notice that the typical home refrigerator is only about 0 to 2degC (not freezing enough). Finally i open up the wheel, and bring it to a nearby w/s to press out the old and press in the new. The total cost for the press is RM20 (or about 4.5 USD). Anyway, will keep your method in mind, who knows in future we might need it (",).
Hi Beh,
You need a freezer,wich is around -18 °C
Like you say,the refrigerator is only to keep things frozen,not to freeze them.
i just did this job and the way i pressed out the race was by putting a socket inside the race and just hit hard and it comes right out
It works well but only if you have a socket of the right outer circumference
Genius install! Also, liked the clean up of the drum with the wire brush tool. Thanks
Thank you : )
This was really good! I truly like the way you took the time and effort to clean and lubricate the parts prior to re-assembly. So many shade tree mechanics totally ignore this step and that bugs me to no end. JD
JD Wisdom
Thank you : )
Since i wanted that one drop in the other without any problem on the one and only chance i had,i did it clean : )
I like clean parts too : )
Thumbs Up!
Brillant idea to freeze the bearing and heat the drum.
: )
Thank you !
Mike Dunn lol this is nothing new it common practice in engineering workshops and heavy equipment workshops around the world. not taking anything away from the guy just sayin.
michaelovitch it's been 3 years. Is it still doing okay? I'm about to do mine...
I used to rebuild airplane wheels and this is how we did the bearings. We would heat the rims and put the races in liquid nitrogen.
+jon tauer really?
We do the same thing to install races. GK don't know what he's talking about
+GK just fyi... I do have an A&P license. And I've worked on everything... recips, turbo props, helicopters, Harriers and built honda jets... check a Cleveland manual or get some experience in R&D. it's a common practice...
does this method have any impact on the durability of the bearing or drum ?
The temperature was normal for a brake drum,the negative temperature is normal too,for the bearing.
You could think the bearing have seen its grease or seals cooked,but no,it not went that hot.
In the industry bearings ,even sealed ones,are heated to 100 Celcius on induction heaters to be inserted on shafts.
The car is rolling since three years now,without problems.
200 °C is nothing for a brake,including brake drums.
You can heat the drum to 100 C ,it should work.
Worked great for me! 2002 Ford Focus ZX3. Bearing at 0 C for 2 hours, drum at 120 C for 1.5 hours, perfect! Thank you!
+atour31
Thank to YOU !
i'm very happy to read that : )
Great job buddy. Thank you so much for sharing that with me :) I learn so much from people like yourself and its free !!
I'm happy to read that : )
I've learned a lot too from YT and books i've bought.
Knowledge is the only thing that shouldn't be a business,but schools,universities or colleges aren't free everywhere.
YT is quite a good place to see how others do and you can pick a bit of it to do the same yourself for jobs like that, not too much specific
: )
Aww what a good dog. Dog's are good animals.
+Daniel Peters
I agree : )
Like us, but in better.
+michaelovitch Sometimes I think dogs are better than people.
+CCWSig
It's very often the case,i think like you.
Nice dog and well done job (with both sides of brain) :)
BTW I don't understand why did you bother to remove rust from the brake housing and for the safety reason next time wear a dust mask when ventilating the brake dust.
To make smooth the surface for easy bearing remove
@@jakeadzrikchannel9926 I think b novak is refering to the rust removal on the outer surface of the drum brake. It has no use indeed. Few months later it will be rusted again and more material will have been lost than when the rust would just have been left alone 🙂
Sweet. Nice video. I use dry ice to chill the bearing and hub when, I have the chance. Sometimes time does not permit.
Excellent video, thank you. While many may already be aware of the heat / cool trick, I wasn't, even though I am well aware of the effects of heating and cooling. I got an "aha" moment. Well done.
Thank you : )
It was a pretty cool moment for us to se it just drop in like that : )
I dont have a press but I have half a brain...
half... yahhhh
yeah you ruined the bearing grease inside the bearing and melted the rubber seal on it, I would not do that, use a puller
The bearing is ok ,thay are heated in factories to 110 °C ,it's normal,and it was far from that here.
not the bearings, the rubber seal and the grease. they are not heated at all I just watched 2 videos on how bearings are made. you melted the rubber seal , it's your car so do what you want, but I wouldn't do that to my car.
look :
czcams.com/users/results?search_query=induction+bearing+heater
michaelovitch dude thats not a factory and those bearings dont even have any grease or the rubber seals on them. omg man , I have no idea what you are trying to get at. anyways if I need bearing work I know who not to call.
The bearing went in the freezer, not the oven.Looks like the only heat it received was when it was placed in the hot drum. How hot do you suppose that bearing gets during normal use? I've used this trick on bronze bearings in cases before, never on roller bearings. I say well done michalvitch.
I like the way this guy works. good stuff
Thank you : )
Thank you! This worked on my 50 year old British car. Saved a lot of effort.
I have all the tools except the black dog - can I still do the job? :) Thanks for the video - cute dog btw.
No,the dog is a necessity lol
Otherwise it's fucked in advance lol
I will tell her,she will be happy to hear that with her long ears : )
michaelovitch Yes, I had to use my black dog to do this job as well. Very good tool. ;)
ceajaegirl
lol
They are REALLY special tool : )
:)
Hot drum will melt the grease away:(
Tightening bearing with impact gun will cause brinelling
+Matt In Illinois not really for the rear brakes
+mkrp4 Maybe use dry ice on the bearing and keep drum near high end of normal operating temp.
+Chris Gonzales I honestly don't think it would be a problem, considering the rear drums would be designed to get pretty damned hot, even if in normal use, they don't heat up that much. Also, the front bearings seem to survive ok, and on rallies, my wheels often get way too hot to touch, so I can only assume the bearing is at least as hot, where it is located.
+mkrp4
I didn't see your comment till now (weird)
-No because the rear brakes,get hot,in normal use.
200°C is not something spectacular for a brake,even a rear one.
and yes if the impact is on mode "full throttle",wich is not the case here.
But i agree ,you have to be gentle with bearings.
Thanks to you i have learned a new technical word today.
Thank you for that : )
+James Martin
I agree.
peoples tend to forget drum brakes where at the 4 wheels before,end the were aircooled on fast vehicles,just because fading.
they are still operating on 40 tons trailers around the world. : )
200 °C is a normal temp range,even for a drum brake : )
Thanks for the video it helped me a lot. Bonne continuation !!
To those worried about frying the grease. You can use a lower oven temp of around 160C. It just means you have to tap the bearing (gently!) home with a drift - an old bearing is ideal, just make sure you hit the outside of the bearing and not the middle. When the bearing is installed, it's possible to remove the plastic covered metal dust guards by carefully inserting a blade between the guard and the inner part of the bearing and carefully levering it out a bit at a time. When that's done you can lift out the tapered bearing and inspect the grease and even replace it with new high melting point bearing grease if you want.
Thank you for your advices.
I tried this method today!!!
But i changed the process a little..
I kept the bearing in the freezer for about 2 hours, and i only heated the drum for about 10/15mins.. It need a little persuasion to get it fitted right and then i gently sprayed the drum with cold water to reduce the temperature.. perfection!! no bubbling grease or anything.. job done ;)
+Nice swan
Congratulations !
I'm really happy to read that : )
Thank you !
What was the car model ?
common people bearing can take heat i dont think something special here
U JUST BURNED YOUR SEAL MONSIEUR !!!!
This was a really awesome method!!!!! I am doing front bearings on a Toyota Sienna and will be trying this out!!!!! Thanks so much!!!!!
I hope it will go smoothly for you : )
Thanks to you !
I'm happy to see it's useful !
Cool to see this done with a creative mind, even without a well stocked shop
awesome the grease is getting cooked out of the bearing
i was thinking the same thing man,that bearing will die quickly
3 years later,40 000 kms without problems...
bearings are heated 110 °C to be inserted in factories.
Learn what a brass punch is used for
Or copper punch.
You don't use brass or copper punches installing steel bearings. Shards could come off and enter the bearing. Basic engineering.
You don't use brass or copper punches installing steel bearings. Shards could come off and enter the bearing. Basic engineering.
Chris Derrick Yup, spot! For exactly the reason you state.
The recommended punch/drift for a bearing is mild steel.
Even using a hardened steel punch your far more likely to shatter a bearing before you mark it.
excellent video Bravo, i especially enjoyed listening to you explain about the rust and how much it will fight you if your not a trained auto tech you should not be attempting to do this at home . GOOD JOB I SUBSCRIBED
Thank you !
: )
Nice Job I especially like the use of the hot and cold expansion to insert the new race and bearing. AAAA++++++
My only comment, It's unsafe to use compressed air to clean rear drums, Should use a mask, or a brake cleaner.
Right.
I don't breathe when i blow them even if they have no asbestos in it anymore.
I use generally a gardening sprayer (the little one with the manual pump) to clean brakes.
The dust go directly on the floor.
*****
The drums themselves always have been made of cast iron as i know
the shoes inside yes,like you say : )
Regardless of drum/disc. You are to never breathe in the dust that comes from it, Whether it be the drums dust, or disc brakes dust.
the mechanic who does this will have lung cancer
Oh my god! A great way to ruin the bearing grease & have you never heard of circlip pliers?
circlip pliers costs money, like a press for the whole work...
You've never heard of "if it works, then it works"? Buying pliers takes time, if he can do the job with a screwdriver, what is the point of complaining? If he never uses those pliers in other situations then it's a waste of time and money to get them.
Thanks a lot!
My little polo has got noisy sound since last week after car wash. I think the sound is from the rear. By the help of your video, I think I can replace the rear wheel.
Thanks again!
Akbarlious Rezaious
Thank you : )
Is the noise increasing with the speed of the vehicle ?
Ive never seen anyone do this, we all know that heat expands the metal and cold shrinks it, props bro, on taking the two and combining it like this.
Thank you ! : )
That was stupid. All the greas from the bearing was gone.
+Robert Inferno Your stupid. There called sealed bearings.
R. James Patterson Skene 1. learn how to spell in english;
2. the heated grease turns to liquid and will flow between bearing and seal. And too much heat makes grease loose his lubrication properties.And, of course, grease heatet too much will burn.
Loose his lubrication? Heatet too much? Learn how to spell english you fucktard. Have you ever pulled a wrench in your life? The grease will not flow between the bearing and seal; standard NLGI GC-LB is good for at least 150° - 200°. Get your shit together!
+R. James Patterson Skene well you just hammer it in
PEOPLE LIKE YOU MAKE ME SICK. HE WAS WORKING ON HIS CAR
NOT YOURS. AND HE DID A GREAT JOB.
too much talking
When I saw the fridge I guessed what you were going to do, but I didn't expect it to be so effective! Good Job
Thank you : )
Yep,those kitchen appliances are crazy effective....
don't need manly fancy tools,you can do lot of stuff in a kitchen ; )
*****
Two hands with spaghetti fingers for you !
*****
Good !
Nice work !
Hey Michael,
Good job. I replaced one on a ford like that. It a is a lot of work, but, real rewarding.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you : )
It's way more silent after, in the car : )
The thermal difference exploitation was impressively effective!
However, an easier way of removing the old outer race, is to weld a decent diameter rod across the race diameter, then pound that rod with a hammer. The hitting force is then straight down, as opposed to the uneven sideway force, wedging the race somewhat, when using the chisel on the edges.
He had wood. He could have trimmed that to size and used it as a drift, without the risk of damaging the good metal surfaces.
Effing amazing bro!!! I have to change a bearing this weekend and this is looking like an idea. not sure though, wouldn't want to mess anything up
+bkameka69
Take your time,and have a plan B ready if you mess up.
: )
very cool video with the hot/cold fitting of the bearing.
instead of welding and punching out the old race you can also use a Dremel with a small cutting wheel. Cut 1 groove across the race, punch it with a chisel until the race cracks. After that it will pop out realy easy.
Thank you !
Yes : ) it 's a good technic but i was lazy....
the dremel was in the house,the welder nearest in the garage : )
i've used that for the outer cage of a drive shaft bearing on my car,but i 've used a grinder.
Hi Michael, it's been a while since you have posted this video but I'm glad I found it... Finally had to change the bearings on my girlfriends' car (Nissan Micra 2007) and followed your instructions. Bearing in the freezer at -18 degrees Celsius and the drum in the oven until it hit 200 degrees Celsius (measure with a temperature probe). It worked beautyfully ! Thanks a lot and keep up the good work!
Hi,
I'm very happy it worked for you.
Thanks to you to let me know, You can tell your girlfriend a french dude said to you that she is lucky to have somebody giving himself some trouble to fix her car.
haha : )
@@michaelovitch I think she realises that 😊, but I'll tell her anyway. Now I'm tackling the other one in the rear. After that I have to fix the rough idling. I did some cleaning on the butterfly valve but didn't solve it yet. Going to clean the sensors also. Spark plugs are fine.
@@laurensarenas2737
What car is that ?
It’s the same Nissan Micro 2007 K12. I have a 4x4 too. That’s a Santana Anibal which requires some work too. Need to change the silent blocks.
@@laurensarenas2737
"The main problem of this engine is the loss of power, rough idle. It happens because of the front catalytic converters. They wear out because of poor quality fuel, and their ceramic dust through the EGR system is absorbed by the engine. As a result, it grinds the cylinder walls, and then the dust gets into the oil system and spreads all over the engine."
www.engine-specs.net/nissan/cr12de.html
Take a look at your specific engine size,but loks like the 1.0 and 1.2 engines have this problem.
It could be something else,but this seems to be the well known problem on this engine.
Very professional result :-)
The expansion of metal to heat and contraction to cold, that worked so well, by the sound of your response you thought so too :-) :-)
And the loverly dog watches over you, just to make sure you made no mistakes ha ha :-), dogs are mechanics you know lol.
You made that look so easy :-)
Really good video. I've been a mechanic for a year and a half now and I've never seen the bearing frozen / drum heated up method. :) Though, I would tell people that to get that bearing race out you had to weld it before hitting it with the chisel. Looking at the comments....the welding puts lots of heat through it thus will tap out with a chisel; its just a bonus that the weld provides a bigger surface area to hit on :)
Thank you : )
The welding is not a necessity,i just had no punch avaible in my tool box.
You can just punch it out without problems,like you saya flat punch would grab the outer race good enough.
The welding as is only makes it stiffer to chisel it out for the time it stays hot, as it expands it. If you want to utilize the heat expansion to make it easily drop out, you must quickly cool down the race with water after the welding, so that the race cools down and reshrinks while the drum still stays hot and the bore expanded.
@@TheSimoc I did it like that, I heated the entire hub with torch and quickly dropped a few ice cubes into the hollow bearing that was stuffed with steel wool on the bottom side (that thing for washing dishes) (so ice cubes won't fall out the other side). Also prior to all that I soaked the bearing with WD40 for a while. Once I dropped in the ice cubes a few seconds later the old hub fell out almost on it's own, I just pushed it put with screwdriver. The hub was still hot so I immediately dropped in my new bearing that was already frozen at -18, also dropped in right away and I quickly poured oil on the seals so the seals of new bearing won't burn from the heat transfer from the hot hub
Big respect! Great job.
strumpeteer
Thank you !
Merci beaucoup! Excellent job! Useful for Corsa C and Tigra B owners too! Thanks..
: )
Yes the bearing would have gone out with a very powerful and quick cooling.
liquid nitrogen or something like that.
But you don't want to shrink the drum with,otherwise it's useless.
That mean the coolant must be very well directed on one part only and very very quick before temperature transfert from a part to an other...
Kitchen are really useful,specialy here in France lol we do everything with them !
Love it. I'm all for easy and cheap DIY.
Thanks : )
just the price of the bearing here : )
7:57. Priceless. No swearing, no throwing of tools -- just a 'good riddance' toss of the offending part. Ha! It wanted to come right back, though, rolling into the frame. With the prolonged absence of speaking, at first I thought a Monk was making this video. Ha! Nice! I always like a fine example of ingenuity and resourcefulness.
*****
What could i say ?
Thank you very much !!
: )
very instructive and innovative .. a great video! Shows what you can do with skill and imagination .. a real craftsman with great hand skills .. thanks!
I guess the necessity help to be innovative...
Thank you for your comment : )
Very cool !
Greetings from England - great job boys!!
Thank you and Greets from France ! : )
Yeah !!!
Moi aussi,on a bien rigolé ce jour là : )
Greetings from Mexico. You're a genius !
Greetings from France : )
Thanks.
excellent!!! j'ai adoré la façon de mettre le roulement !!!!
I like the method of heat and cold. it is brilliant. The only problem is the compressed air on the brakes. Spray the brakes first with brake cleaner, then it would have been a work of art. I still give it a thumbs up.
Thank you : )
I agree,i use soapy water,it's cheaper lol
The trick he is referring to is when you use a MIG welder and weld a bead around the race of the bearing. It causes the race to "shrink" slightly and that helps pound it out with a chisel. That is what those dirty gobs of metal were inside the race that you saw.
The welding trick doesn't shrink the race, it expands it. When removing the inner race from around the axle, the expansion works beneficially as is, as the race and its hole expands in respect to the axle. When removing the outer race from inside the bore instead, the additional step of quick cooling the race with water is needed right after the welding, in order to "reshrink" the heat-expanded race while retaining the drum/knuckle hot and the bore expanded for the time to the race to come out.
Great vid mate. Excellent example of how a skilled home mechanic can save a lot of money just using hand tools. All the haters need to get a life, they have no idea what they're talking about. I'm a marine engineer, and that was a perfect example of using heat and cooling when assembling press fit or interference fit components. Good on you for taking the time and effort to make and post the vid. Cheers from Australia. Timmy.
Thank you very much for your words !
: )
Cheers to you from next to Lyon, France !
you are the man that can. clever and patient. nice job
Thank you : )
another thank you. it sooo worked. this saved me £410 on the mechanic price.
I'm happy for you : )
How many bearings for 410 £ ?
Inventive solution, great job!
+Pastor Fuzz
Thank you : )
Hey,
Good job for real. I have seen ppl freezing their bearings but they missed hearing the brake drum.
One thing I just thought of, when you apply excessive heat to the drum , it’ll impact the surface of the drum where it touches the brake pads. You might need to take the drum to the shop to have it surfaced afterward. This will be even better.
But at the end, good job bro
Thank you : )
Brakes can go quite easily to the temp you cook food at,so it's not a problem as long as you don't use a blowtorch lol.
michaelovitch 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I like the bearing in the freezer and the hub in the oven. Too bad if you have a big knuckle that the bearing goes into, you might not find an oven big enough. I wonder if dropping the bearing in there like that and the rapid temperature change, effects the grease inside the bearing?
Big parts are heated with a oxy acetylene torch,most of the time.
As long as the grease does not goes more what is recommended by the manufacturer,it's all good.
It's often 90 °C or 110 °C like most of the non specialized greases.
Since the bearing was at minus 20°C i doubt it went higher than that,the drum being air cooled too.
Good video, I heated my drum to 120 deg C, with a frozen bearing it didn't drop in, I had to Persuade it a bit, I was prepared with a perfect size Brass spacer to hit with my Lump hammer,.
Getting the old one out ...I kept the Taper bearing to hit with a socker 😀 ...thanks
: ) thanks.
I used 200 ° C on my drum,so it dropped,but 120 °C is what a bearing itself is heated to when mounted in factories on a shaft etc...they use induction heaters.
It's a more "conservative "temp,but i had no tool,so i opted for "guaranteed or reimbursed" to be sure lol
Persuasion is a good thing to practice sometimes,so you remember not everything fall all cooked and ready to eat lol
I persuade 99% of the time hahaha !
Nice job...did you add some weld to the outer race to get some purchase with your chisel?
Genius, love it! Nice work.
Thank you : )
But i'm far from a genius...
thanks Michael this is really easy way to do.
I done same like U .
Efect its beauty.
+Ilona Laskowska
Thank you !
All was good ?
No problem ?
Même technique pour les roulements de direction de ma moto. ça marche nickel (3H de congelo pour le roulement et chauffe légère sur le cadre histoire de pas le cuire.) comme papa dans maman !
En revanche pour une 325 TDS j'ai voulut faire la même méthode mais je me suis ravisé et investit dans un extracteur et repose de roulement de roue chinois à 40 € gain de temps énorme et sans forcé, et l'outils made in china a tenu.
De manière général, belles vidéos ! Continue toi et ton labrador =) !
Merci : )
Dans les semaines qui viennent je dois changer un kit distribution et une pompe à eau.
Je devrais filmer tout ça si tout va bien : )
This is amazing! Thanks so much!
Thank you : )
Awesome video-a word of caution about using an oven-use a dedicated oven only for parts as there can be nasty chemicals on the parts that may linger. I purchased a large toaster oven I keep in the garage. Thanks for posting!!!
Thank you : )
Good word of caution : )
Yes,It's not supposed to go in a oven...i wash parts several times first of course,and the oven after.
My Dad told me this trick long time ago. He was a mechanic, died aways back. A old school mechanic taught him how to do that. Also works on ball joints..ECT. metal shrinks minutely, and heating metal makes it expand!!!!
I'm lucky,i still have my dad,but he didn't teach me this trick.
His windshield just blew up because of that,a tiny impact and some high summer temps on the glass made it crack...
well this with the fridge and the oven just nuked me off. Just amazin idea to use the metal shrink-extend state depending on temp. Great!
Thanks !
: )
Nice video, it`s a old trick :) another trick to get the bearings out is to have the hub in the oven for a 30 min on 200. when it still hot you can almost slide the beaings out of the hub, but have the fan on lol.
Never tried that, i will try for the next one.
Thanks ! : )
How would that work? When the bearing is in the hub, they will both expand at the same rate, so in theory it would not change anything to the effort required to take it out.
@@Engineer9736 you pour some water on the bearing (or ice cubes) before hammering it out, it cools off way faster than the massive drum (less thermal mass)
I need help, or detailed instructions or link to videos to change the Rear LH wheel hub or bearings on a 1996 Toyota Paseo. I believe the Toyota tercel is the exact same.
: )
Merci !
C'est la chienne de ma sœur et elle est super cool ,elle est croisée labrador/beauceron mais c'est pas flagrant,elle a une tête toute carrée on dirait une boite à chaussures lol
Combien de kilomètres avait le roulement ?
avant ou arrière ?
in the middle its seems we landed in a cooking show. Nice trick.
Great video. But I wasn't going to comment until I saw the Labrador. Liked and subscribed.
wtf genius at work.... need a mechanic like this .....