I'm a pro-mechanic and have assisted other mechanics with this process. I myself have only done 1, and it was more of a side bearing replacement and shim set up. But all in all i think you did pretty good in setting it all up!
Hey sir! I just wanted to give you a big thanks for providing this video. It helped me out so much building my first rear end. Thank you! I had issues with the crush sleeve and pinion depth but after alittle more hard work I was able to complete it successfully
Don’t know how I got here but nice work. Quick pointer, next time drive your bearing races down wards since you nave the rear end out. Also might as well have all the brake assembly on the backing plate saves on working around axle and easier to put together when laying flat on a bench. Gravity is your friend in both these instances.
I was actually hoping to get my Chevelle a 12 bolt rearend (8.875) and change out the gears and turn it to a posi . But...the rear end i came accross, was already set up with a posi and 4.11 gear, so im happy with that. But, i skip the adventure of the set up, oh well, maybe someday.
Great video! I recently bought a quick performance kit for my 8.2 and I noticed it has 2 crush sleeves. One is big and one is smaller. Do I use the bigger one? Tia
Hi, great demo for the BOP axel! Was your axel housing originally an open diff that you converted to posi? Or were you simply upgrading the carrier and gear set?
Pretty sure you are suppose to set your rotational torque on the pinion with the diff in the housing, I'm thinking it's gonna change if you do it without the weight of the diff and then put the diff in, doesn't the weight of the diff create resistance that wasn't there before, just thinking out loud hear, you're doing a great job.
I used this kit www.ronsmachiningservice.net/installation-kits/general-motors/gm-8-5-o-axle/1968-1972-olds-cutlass-8-5-o-axle-elite-master-install-timken-bearing-kit-28-spline/
@@borgtriestofixit ok i'm going to be using your video as a good tutorial for my rear end 72 supreme going with 3:55s from rons auto he's i nice guy i spoke with him to find out what gears et to buy for my 10 bolt
I used this kit for the Posi Unit and gears - www.ronsmachiningservice.net/gear-posi-packages/general-motors/gm-olds-o-axle/gm-8-5-olds-o-axle-3-42-ring-pinion-28-spline-posi-gear-pkg/
seems like you did a lot of work for pinion depth. i measure the original pinion depth before removing it, then use the original shim that's on it and start from there. most of the time depth is off a couple thousand so i match it and done.
I like the way you set the pinon first in depth ! Way too go ! And a complete set up with axles install very good DIY ! THX
I'm a pro-mechanic and have assisted other mechanics with this process. I myself have only done 1, and it was more of a side bearing replacement and shim set up. But all in all i think you did pretty good in setting it all up!
Hey sir! I just wanted to give you a big thanks for providing this video. It helped me out so much building my first rear end. Thank you! I had issues with the crush sleeve and pinion depth but after alittle more hard work I was able to complete it successfully
Great video
You just toasted half of the expensive equipment and big wigs with all their "it's hard and expensive to do...lol...ty sir...)
All this talk about cookies is making me hungry......😜🤣
could you use your old bearings as the sacrificial bearings?
Don’t know how I got here but nice work. Quick pointer, next time drive your bearing races down wards since you nave the rear end out. Also might as well have all the brake assembly on the backing plate saves on working around axle and easier to put together when laying flat on a bench. Gravity is your friend in both these instances.
I was actually hoping to get my Chevelle a 12 bolt rearend (8.875) and change out the gears and turn it to a posi . But...the rear end i came accross, was already set up with a posi and 4.11 gear, so im happy with that. But, i skip the adventure of the set up, oh well, maybe someday.
Great video! I recently bought a quick performance kit for my 8.2 and I noticed it has 2 crush sleeves. One is big and one is smaller. Do I use the bigger one? Tia
I believe it is the bigger one that should look something like this... www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-33103
@@borgtriestofixit great thank you!
Hi, great demo for the BOP axel! Was your axel housing originally an open diff that you converted to posi? Or were you simply upgrading the carrier and gear set?
It was an Open Diff and I converted it to the Posi
👌👍
Pretty sure you are suppose to set your rotational torque on the pinion with the diff in the housing, I'm thinking it's gonna change if you do it without the weight of the diff and then put the diff in, doesn't the weight of the diff create resistance that wasn't there before, just thinking out loud hear, you're doing a great job.
Where did you get the stand attachment for the engine stand.
I got it from Summit
what bearings and seal did you use for your axles?
I used this kit www.ronsmachiningservice.net/installation-kits/general-motors/gm-8-5-o-axle/1968-1972-olds-cutlass-8-5-o-axle-elite-master-install-timken-bearing-kit-28-spline/
What axles did you use? Ive been searching but no luck!
I used these nitro axles i got through Summit. www.summitracing.com/parts/nga-axg8-2bop-l
👍👍👍👍
i'm from dedham where are you from?
was there a big difference with the 342s?
I'll have to let you know, I haven't driven it yet
@@borgtriestofixit ok i'm going to be using your video as a good tutorial for my rear end 72 supreme going with 3:55s from rons auto he's i nice guy i spoke with him to find out what gears et to buy for my 10 bolt
what posi unit did you use?
I used this kit for the Posi Unit and gears - www.ronsmachiningservice.net/gear-posi-packages/general-motors/gm-olds-o-axle/gm-8-5-olds-o-axle-3-42-ring-pinion-28-spline-posi-gear-pkg/
an expensive rebuild made light on the wallet. If your not a teacher - consider
seems like you did a lot of work for pinion depth. i measure the original pinion depth before removing it, then use the original shim that's on it and start from there. most of the time depth is off a couple thousand so i match it and done.
tolerance is .007-.009, i do .008, since eventually the gears will wear to the high side anyway.