Not the fastest way but better than unbolting from the sliders. This method allows you to clean up the caliper and the rotor mount surface. Unbolting the sliders lets you slide the pads out/in quickly but you can't really clean anything up.
I didn't mention the "fastest" way ?? Why put words in my mouth ? Your "method" is the fastest way because it's not finished ! You didn't lubricate the slider pins or clean through the slider pin holes to remove old grease and you didn't lubricate the slider pins at all ! The Calliper should be removed from the Pad Bracket FIRST, then the Pad Bracket removed, then the Disc, then the Hub cleaned and coated with a thin layer of Copper grease or anti-sieze. (your wire brush did virtually nothing) Pins and Rubbers should be cleaned and lubricated, Pad Bracket and clips should be cleaned and anti-sieze used under each clip before replacement. Given that your pads were absolutely finished means the slider pins haven't been lubricated since those pads were new. Pads that are so worn out transfer too much heat to the calliper which "cooks" the slider pin lubricant. This leads to a lazy or siezed calliper creating uneven Pad wear because of a frozen slider pin or a frozen Calliper. This is not a good way to change the pads because just for the sake of removing two more bolts, you made the job extremely awkward for yourself and you left the most vital steps out of your video completely. No Mechanic would do it this way. The link below is how the job should be done, this is a video of an older MX 5 but the job is roughly the same on any car. czcams.com/video/hb4uQC2tmRQ/video.html&ab_channel=SouthMainAutoRepairLLC@@DaBinChe
I had the same reaction when I tried the C-clamp 😂
this is a great video. thanks for taking all the time to make it. very helpful.
I tried pushing in the piston on my 124 abarth & had the same reaction lol.
Thank you for the videos. Very helpful.
Thanks for the video. Do you know if the rear caliper on the brembo trim the same as the non-brembo trim? thanks
Not the best way to do this job.
Not the fastest way but better than unbolting from the sliders. This method allows you to clean up the caliper and the rotor mount surface. Unbolting the sliders lets you slide the pads out/in quickly but you can't really clean anything up.
I didn't mention the "fastest" way ?? Why put words in my mouth ? Your "method" is the fastest way because it's not finished ! You didn't lubricate the slider pins or clean through the slider pin holes to remove old grease and you didn't lubricate the slider pins at all !
The Calliper should be removed from the Pad Bracket FIRST, then the Pad Bracket removed, then the Disc, then the Hub cleaned and coated with a thin layer of Copper grease or anti-sieze. (your wire brush did virtually nothing) Pins and Rubbers should be cleaned and lubricated, Pad Bracket and clips should be cleaned and anti-sieze used under each clip before replacement.
Given that your pads were absolutely finished means the slider pins haven't been lubricated since those pads were new. Pads that are so worn out transfer too much heat to the calliper which "cooks" the slider pin lubricant. This leads to a lazy or siezed calliper creating uneven Pad wear because of a frozen slider pin or a frozen Calliper.
This is not a good way to change the pads because just for the sake of removing two more bolts, you made the job extremely awkward for yourself and you left the most vital steps out of your video completely. No Mechanic would do it this way.
The link below is how the job should be done, this is a video of an older MX 5 but the job is roughly the same on any car.
czcams.com/video/hb4uQC2tmRQ/video.html&ab_channel=SouthMainAutoRepairLLC@@DaBinChe