When I cut 1/2 coil from a stock spring, it dropped the front end down about 1.5". On a lowering spring, if you had to cut it (which I would not advise), only go maybe 1/4 of a coil and try it out. Gonna be really stiff though. If you are looking for a 3/2-4" drop in front, you have 2" with the lower control arm, try removing only 1/2 coil from a stock spring. After it settles, you would have a ~3.5" drop. I did this on my '95 and worked great with no issues and rode very well.
I heard somewhere a good rule of thumb is to measure the spring height and for every 1" of spring height you cut off it will lower the viehical about two inches with GM springs. ALSO you have to do both sides individually to get an even ride height.
Soon as I seen you cut the spring, I thought that jack isn't coming out. Its a pain but them springs will go in even when they seem to long. If you think about it, you said they were same length as the stock ones. It was a lowered control arm correct? Overall good job and it looks great!!
whats with the extra piece on the outside of the c-notch ? and the extra holes drilled into the shock extensions if you would of put the bolts the opposite way instead of having the nut on the inside face the bolts outward then they wouldnt have touched in the center and you wouldnt have had to add that extra bolt
Nice Job..! Awesome Work.! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 You Should Slap some 50’s on the front with 60’s on the back with custom rims and low profile rubber..! That would of fit perfect with the one inch drop. 🤔 But still a very good job!👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 “Peace”✌🏼😊👍🏼💯
Nice video bro! Super clean truck too. Where did you order your western chassis super c-notch from? And how long did it take to come in. Sadly I ordered mine and I got an email confirmation and everything and still have not received any c-notch yet. And they don’t respond to emails and their phone call wait time is ridiculous. No one answers
I have the same set up. I had a hard time with the springs as well. Very dangerous! I managed to install them without cutting the springs. I been told that the upper ball joints and hardware from DJM are trash, so I bought a set of Moog upper ball joints for “peace of mind” and OEM hardware.
I will check it out. I'm kind of thinking about getting Alden American coilovers for the front so I can have some height adjustment. Seems like they would work with the djm control arms
@@matthew1er I’ll be running that set up soon have the Alden coil overs on the rear and they ride so smooth have the front coil-overs and control arm sitting in the garage waiting to be installed
@@matthew1er yea I have the same control arms 2 in djm arms. The coilovers do not fit directly on the control arm so I had to get an extra piece from Alden. It’s just a 1/4 in plate that sits on the arm for the coilover to sit on. Look up ALD-39 it’ll pop up .
@@anthonysalcido8700 okay I will check it out. That sounds like a good idea anyways having that plate there for added strength because all the force from the shock and spring is going to be on the center of that bottom plate and I was wondering if it could handle all that
Man I feel for ya, all of us have jacked something at some point. I did basically the same thing to an S10 back in the 90's. Took me forever to get it fixed right.
Nice truck i have a question if you had not change control alrma would your wheel be hitting it and not been able to turn all the way cause thats where im at now my wheel i cant turn it all the eay cause the inside of wheel hit lowere arm
Just trim the lower control arm lip about 2"s back from the bearing "just a little bit" with a grinder, sand smooth and then paint it...,It'll be fine.
the control arms are not really necessary, i went with them because i heard that with using a drop spindle instead, your turning radius declines so i decided to keep using the stock spindle . for the rear 4 inches is probably the lowest you want to drop it without using c-notch .
@@SirGuidemere91 the cheapest way to drop the front i think would be just cut one coil off the stock spring or drop spring, and add new drop shocks. that can be done for under $100 for a 2 or 3 inch drop. or just buy a drop spindle for a quick 2 inch drop but those are around $250.
With all the parts you put on there having them from different places did you have any problems with the angle of your drive shaft or anything and did you have to add shims because I'm doing the same type of thing I have took it from a different place to see knock from belltech front JDM control arms and they're starting to tell me that I have to freaking put these longer bolts on the springs who's the top of the plate goes and add shims for the angle of the controller for the driveshaft to be correct and I was like why am I just a regular cab just thought I'd ask cuz my situations just like yours so did you have any issues with putting all years together
One other question, did you come up with a salution for the van on the bottom of the c notch. Did you call Western chassis and ask him if that's normal for it to have that Gap. Because I bought them too and I'm about to maybe install them and if that isn't there's no way that dress that got then I don't think I want to install my mites in the back
You also have a 2"drop spindle plus the lowering control arms and lowering spring.. that's why it drop so much. Total drop was a like 7" plus you cut the springs
It's the the quills are still the same length it's the it's a different compression rate for the Springs so yeah they're the same length and everything but the compression leg to compress them down is totally different from your stock ones so when you cut it down it made the compression totally different and then that's why it's almost sitting on the ground you should have cut nothing out there should have been no problem getting a man cuz I got a mini-z but yeah you're going to order new strings Every Spring has a different compression rate that's why they suggest not to cut spring because you altered the compression rate of the of the spring
But looking you did tighten those Castel nuts way to much the castle nuts are supposed to be on to where the deer just barely the whole is just barely above the castle nut little open spot I don't know if I'm explaining it correctly to you but yeah it was really supposed to tighten those down to where it barely just gets past that Carter PIN hole and then you put those carvings in because of you kind of too much going to end up messing up your bushings all new ball joints squeezing the heck out of them
Why don't you explain why your taking something off or loosening something like the gas can ... I stopped watching because I had to resource your video to get answers...
Holly shit that truck is super clean dude .wow
When I cut 1/2 coil from a stock spring, it dropped the front end down about 1.5". On a lowering spring, if you had to cut it (which I would not advise), only go maybe 1/4 of a coil and try it out. Gonna be really stiff though. If you are looking for a 3/2-4" drop in front, you have 2" with the lower control arm, try removing only 1/2 coil from a stock spring. After it settles, you would have a ~3.5" drop. I did this on my '95 and worked great with no issues and rode very well.
Yea I ended up cutting 1 coil off the stock spring. Looks good for now untill I get coilovers
I heard somewhere a good rule of thumb is to measure the spring height and for every 1" of spring height you cut off it will lower the viehical about two inches with GM springs. ALSO you have to do both sides individually to get an even ride height.
Looks great. Good job
id reccomend welding the notch ive heard a lot of people have had bent frames from bolt ons instead of welding it
Soon as I seen you cut the spring, I thought that jack isn't coming out. Its a pain but them springs will go in even when they seem to long. If you think about it, you said they were same length as the stock ones. It was a lowered control arm correct? Overall good job and it looks great!!
Really like the video.. Awsome work
great job keep posting updates on this obs
Been a while man. Truck looks good on the road 👍🏽
Thanks ! I stopped working on the truck for a while because I was moving into a new place
@@matthew1er Priorities first. Keep up the OBS vids 👍🏽
Great Installation and not easy to do by yourself!
whats with the extra piece on the outside of the c-notch ? and the extra holes drilled into the shock extensions if you would of put the bolts the opposite way instead of having the nut on the inside face the bolts outward then they wouldnt have touched in the center and you wouldnt have had to add that extra bolt
So with the shackle in the second hole what does it give you 6 or 7” drop in the back ???
That torque down on the wheel bearings.
lol bearings burnt upp in no time
Nice Job..!
Awesome Work.! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
You Should Slap some 50’s on the front with 60’s on the back with custom rims and low profile rubber..! That would of fit perfect with the one inch drop. 🤔
But still a very good job!👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
“Peace”✌🏼😊👍🏼💯
Looks good Picasso I like it
Nice video bro! Super clean truck too. Where did you order your western chassis super c-notch from? And how long did it take to come in.
Sadly I ordered mine and I got an email confirmation and everything and still have not received any c-notch yet.
And they don’t respond to emails and their phone call wait time is ridiculous. No one answers
What’s the site for your drop kit I have a 94 an I’m doing the same your truck looks awesome I like it
what shocks did you use in the back? in the process of dropping my obs as well great video man
Nitro drop shocks from eBay
Pretty positive that shock bracket on the rearend is to be used with factory length shocks correct me if I’m wrong.
Well I noticed most lowering kits come with the brackets and aftermarket shocks together so I'm pretty sure they're supposed to be used together
@@matthew1er They are NOT used if you use lowering shocks.They are only meant to be used with the longer stock shocks.
The driver side one is ok but the passenger side one will sit at a weird angle so using the shock extension is good with or w'out dropped shocks.
Those rocker panels look great! Did you fix them yourself or is that the way you bought the truck?
This is a California truck with 0 rust issues
I have the same set up. I had a hard time with the springs as well. Very dangerous! I managed to install them without cutting the springs. I been told that the upper ball joints and hardware from DJM are trash, so I bought a set of Moog upper ball joints for “peace of mind” and OEM hardware.
I will check it out. I'm kind of thinking about getting Alden American coilovers for the front so I can have some height adjustment. Seems like they would work with the djm control arms
@@matthew1er I’ll be running that set up soon have the Alden coil overs on the rear and they ride so smooth have the front coil-overs and control arm sitting in the garage waiting to be installed
@@anthonysalcido8700 djm control arms?
@@matthew1er yea I have the same control arms 2 in djm arms. The coilovers do not fit directly on the control arm so I had to get an extra piece from Alden. It’s just a 1/4 in plate that sits on the arm for the coilover to sit on. Look up ALD-39 it’ll pop up .
@@anthonysalcido8700 okay I will check it out. That sounds like a good idea anyways having that plate there for added strength because all the force from the shock and spring is going to be on the center of that bottom plate and I was wondering if it could handle all that
When working on the front end the outer bearing looks dry look at the video so you can see the work is looking excellent.
How would it it bend it if the exhaust and gas tank higher?
Man I feel for ya, all of us have jacked something at some point. I did basically the same thing to an S10 back in the 90's. Took me forever to get it fixed right.
Muchas Felicidades Joven Por Su Canal.
Saludos Cordiales Desde Mazatlán, Sinaloa, México. ..
Que Precio $ Tiene Ese Kit? ??
Yah had to watch it again nice.
Would this kit work on the obs tahoe as well? I got a project and just want to double check
Yes
Is 8 inch possible with western chassis super c notch
Wow that c notch looks great 👍
I did the same drop but my differential tilts upward making the drive shaft rub on the cross member
Maby you need some kind of shims ?
@@matthew1er shims on where?
@@matthew1er nvm I see now
Did you use a coil isolator? Mine got tossed in the middle of my build just wondering if i need them, and if you ran without them.
You talking my about that rubber piece in-between the spring and the medal?
@@matthew1er yes
What size tire is that?
Nice truck!!! What size rally’s and tire size?? Thanks..
235/75/15
Nice truck i have a question if you had not change control alrma would your wheel be hitting it and not been able to turn all the way cause thats where im at now my wheel i cant turn it all the eay cause the inside of wheel hit lowere arm
That's weird do you have big rims?
@@matthew1er no i have 16"
@@5809Alejandro on the djm website it does mention that their aftermarket control arms help with clearance issues
Just trim the lower control arm lip about 2"s back from the bearing "just a little bit" with a grinder, sand smooth and then paint it...,It'll be fine.
Or buy belltech or street edge brand drop spindles.... They don't rub.
Bro did you really just put your wheel bearings in dry and torqued the spindle nut with an impact?
I thought the same thing
@@bigtimecurl8272 lol same here
Creo que en Chevy debe de llegar asta que el seguro entre
48:22 oh hell no...wtf
uhhh cuting lowering springs wow :D
Whats size is you rotor
too tight on the axle nut. why would you cut the coil spring. itll go in
Brilliant …..
How’s the ring quality did you had too install schock extenders ?
Yes I used shock extenders
If you watch the video you'd know. Lol
Do I need C Notch for my s10 2002 if I lower it 4/5"" with beltech 616nd kit???
If you don't carry anything in the bed you could get away without the notch, but you will feel the bumps stops if you hit a good bump.
@@boblister665 The job is done. I didn't use the cnotch. My truck is running ok. I just be careful with the bumps stop.
It’s been a while now, what are your thoughts about you replacing the brake line to a different location? Was it really necessary?
Either that or just cut the support rail on the bottom side of the bed the one right over the rear-end
Hey man you need to put the bowls first to the to the bottle that the four balls go on the bottom of the sea nuts thought
?
I’ve seen drops without the c notch or new control arms. What’s your thoughts on it?
the control arms are not really necessary, i went with them because i heard that with using a drop spindle instead, your turning radius declines so i decided to keep using the stock spindle . for the rear 4 inches is probably the lowest you want to drop it without using c-notch .
@@matthew1er gotcha thank you. And do you think just smaller springs up front would be enough for that?
@@SirGuidemere91 the cheapest way to drop the front i think would be just cut one coil off the stock spring or drop spring, and add new drop shocks. that can be done for under $100 for a 2 or 3 inch drop. or just buy a drop spindle for a quick 2 inch drop but those are around $250.
@@matthew1er those are both good ideas. I just want the drop to be even lol
@@SirGuidemere91 maby you are better off getting coilovers for the front that way you can fine tune your ride height. alden american makes some..
With all the parts you put on there having them from different places did you have any problems with the angle of your drive shaft or anything and did you have to add shims because I'm doing the same type of thing I have took it from a different place to see knock from belltech front JDM control arms and they're starting to tell me that I have to freaking put these longer bolts on the springs who's the top of the plate goes and add shims for the angle of the controller for the driveshaft to be correct and I was like why am I just a regular cab just thought I'd ask cuz my situations just like yours so did you have any issues with putting all years together
One other question, did you come up with a salution for the van on the bottom of the c notch. Did you call Western chassis and ask him if that's normal for it to have that Gap. Because I bought them too and I'm about to maybe install them and if that isn't there's no way that dress that got then I don't think I want to install my mites in the back
I didn't have to use any shims for the drive shaft. The only issues I had was trying to get the new springs in it was very hard
@@MrMrBurnablunt I heard they are supposed to like that but instead bolt it with the gap on the top instead of the bottom
how much?
You also have a 2"drop spindle plus the lowering control arms and lowering spring.. that's why it drop so much. Total drop was a like 7" plus you cut the springs
I dont have a drop spindle
@@matthew1er my bad... I thought u did... looks good 👍 👌
How did U get the bed off?!
I had 2 helpers lift it off with me. I forgot to record that
It's the the quills are still the same length it's the it's a different compression rate for the Springs so yeah they're the same length and everything but the compression leg to compress them down is totally different from your stock ones so when you cut it down it made the compression totally different and then that's why it's almost sitting on the ground you should have cut nothing out there should have been no problem getting a man cuz I got a mini-z but yeah you're going to order new strings Every Spring has a different compression rate that's why they suggest not to cut spring because you altered the compression rate of the of the spring
Yea I know but there was no way I could get the spring in. Maby you will have better luck
those front hub nuts should not be tightened with an impact, the torque spec for them are very low/ Could cause premature wear on your bearings
How is the c notch holding up?
👍
Why not use a spring compressor? Stick the spring in bolt everything up, remove the compressor, done.
It's doesn't really fit I tried
Can this be done without taking off the bed?
Yes, it's just easier with out it in the way
@@matthew1er OK. Thanks. I plan on doing a 3/5 so I can get away without a notch for a bit.
@@atxjax1 nice it's nice not to have to cut the frame up
you loose the spring rate when you cut the spring i bet it feels like a boat on the front end
What size rim and tires??
whats a rim? LOL
Tire size?
235/75/15
@@matthew1er does it rub??
@@jaimeblazer2002 no
Looks like the wrong C-Notch🤔
But looking you did tighten those Castel nuts way to much the castle nuts are supposed to be on to where the deer just barely the whole is just barely above the castle nut little open spot I don't know if I'm explaining it correctly to you but yeah it was really supposed to tighten those down to where it barely just gets past that Carter PIN hole and then you put those carvings in because of you kind of too much going to end up messing up your bushings all new ball joints squeezing the heck out of them
Front wheel bearings won’t last long that tight.
My guy u have an impact use it lol 😂
sometimes i feel like doing it old school lol
Why don't you explain why your taking something off or loosening something like the gas can ... I stopped watching because I had to resource your video to get answers...
"how to ruin your truck"
Basically lmao !!