EICR Testing Procedure
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2020
- EICR Testing Procedure
Join me for an afternoon of testing and inspection on an unoccupied 1 bedroom flat.
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Always do both sides of a double socket as you can sometimes get a dodgy one with damaged internals or loose pins
I got my self a r2 wandering lead kewtech version, after i saw you using yours, love it answers so many questions already found my first metal light with no earth on it within one day. Thanks for the content.
Switched fused connection unit high up in the kitchen would of been for another down flow heater most commonly found in 80's 90's houses with storage heaters
Would never have worked that out. I was born in the late 80s so before my time really.
I'm 27 and training to become an electrician, watch your videos all the time, learning a lot from them. especially with the college shut due to the virus, it means i am still able to learn bits.
Thanks that’s great to hear!
Jonah, you could do a lot worse than watch Jordan's videos. I'm a grumpy old git who was trained to the 16th edition by people who were trained to the 14th... His common sense approach is a breath of fresh air in this world
@@TheChipmunk2008 we’re you one of them old boys that used to talk to apprentices like shit then?
@@luluboxingtv2880 totally the opposite, i was one of the apprentices. LOL
Although to be fair, the work environment i trained in was not toxic to trainees, so i didn't see any of the bullying, which is good.
Fine liked watching the way you tested the ring main never got my head round that 2391 17th on the cross connection testing. I always remember PEIR . Polarity. Earthing Insulation Ring Main Continuity . Always thought they made the testing more time consuming so you would ditch Ring Mains for Radials. Also would use my side cutters with the 3.5 threaded hole to cut the screws down thanks Jordan.
I was quite impressed with your very detailed and thorough approach to testing. Also very transparent. I would have thought the proposed time scale for the next inspection would be 6 months instead of 1 year (I stand to be corrected), with regards to a follow up on the recommended remedial action.
But all the same very well done.. I look forward to seeing more of your video clips.
Thanks!
Did I just see sparks at 19:01 from the CU? Seconds after you moved your eyes to the 'megger'.
That’s why you pay the big bucks for his EICR
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful as my tenants wanted to know if every socket had to be accessible but I didn't know as it's the first time getting it done for me.
My property looks the same age and very similar wiring to this so now I'm panicking mine will fail on something too.
Thanks I’m glad the video was helpful
Love these kind of videos.
Very educational.
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
After using my fluke for around 3 years and manually pressing test button I found out (thanks to your videos) that I can use the probe button (never used that red probe). Thanks.
The details in this video are great! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I find it's worth testing both sides of a double socket when going around doing the zs's, if nothing else it flags issues like internal connections becoming loose, unable to get the plug to in due to damage, wear and tear, foreign bodies stuck in etc.. I find lots of doubles where one side is fine and the other is unusable.
Jordon well done mate, clear and concise video.
Thanks
Your reference to bad smells...I worked in a house last year and there was dog turds on the carpet and the house smelt unpleasant everywhere luckily I only had to fault find an alarm system. I've been in house before where theres dead bones in the loft and maggots yeah I get all the good jobs 😬. Enjoyed your video, interesting content.
Wow that’s awful
Is that in relation to live bones, found plenty of dead birds in flues.🤔🤔🤔
One of the night store points may have gone to the blank plate in the airing cupboard for an off peak immersion. Excellent videos thanks.
👍
Great work Jordan keep the videos coming 👍🏽
Thanks a lot! 😁
All looks good, thorough job
Thanks 😊
😎 another great video like always.
Thanks
I think your judgment was sound and the job a good one.
Hi Jordan. New to your channel. I am concerned that you continue to ware your wedding ring while working in live panels . its day one advice to apprentices.
I have been an electrician for 26 years here in the states . Enjoy your vlogs and your attention detail. its interesting to see how methods are done in the UK. There seems to be cowboys everywhere.
Hi Jordan, really enjoyed your video and agree with your conclusions/coding. I personally use a draper CT4 to shorten the m3.5 screws (very cheap tool) but gives a reasonably clean cut end. It can also be used to cut m4 & m5, but I’ve never tried those sizes. Keep up the good work!
Nice thanks for your comment
Awesome video thanks Jordan. It really helps to be able to see an EICR in practice for a learner like me! Nice shoes too! Do you have a link for them?
C2 for bathroom light if live connections outside of enclosure.
At 22:18 - IP rating of the light - as you said - it is outside of zones. Re: screws - Screwfix has mid length (40mm)?
That shadow really brings out ur complexion 😁
Nice job Thanks ❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉Happy new year.
R2 Test in parallel and why disconnect main bond at gas pipe and not at met / cu bond point?
If you keep putting C3 code for most items then the installation will never get updated to the current regulations. .and if the client wants you to change or redo the lights in the bathroom then you will have to fit rccd protection . So how can you go back to the Client to tell him you have to replace the consumer unit . When you have already passed it with codes C3..
You will have to state that the installation requires to be updated to the current regulations to cover yourself. .
No RCD protection means supplementary bonding is required as per current and previous regs. Might have been what that 2.5mm2 earth cable was in the bathroom... The bathroom / kitchen fitters might not have re-instated the bonding thinking that it’s not required under 18th regs, forgetting that that is only the case if rcd’s are fitted.
The niceic says you don’t need both r2 and r1+r2. If you choose to test r2 you then still need to measure r1+r2 to establish your Zs . The Niceic have said not to carry out live Zs testing, as do many large employers, you should add ze to your r1+r2 to get zs.
I would agree with the r2 on metal cased fittings though , or just r1+r2 at any that are metal as well as the end of line .
Socket outlets in domestic properties without rcd protection are an instant c2 IMO, lights c3
I always keep a bag of M3.5 x 35mm screws in the van. Comes in very handy
Nice tip!
I met an old electrician once who never knew you could cut them down. Went through his whole career and never knew 🤣🤣🙃
Regarding tapped holes in back boxes, if it's old it is probably 4BA and not 3.5mm.
I have a set of BA sockets in 1/4 inch, old school gauge days none of this metric
😂 the difference is ever so slight, but it makes ALL the difference. Took me far too long to figure that one out, fun times
19:00 Sparkie by name, sparkie by nature ;)
The high Fused Spur in the kitchen could be for the Gas Hob Ignition behind the Oven
Another great video mate just watched it as I am waiting for mine to upload onto CZcams. Keep up the good work 👍
Hi Jordan, Great Video. A couple of tips! You can buy 40mm long 3.5mm screws which seem to be the most useful length. Cutting them with side cutters is often the cause of damage to threads in the back boxes; better to use a 'shear' tool to shorten the screws if you have to. Insulation resistance, I always do Line to Neutral at 250V first to see if there is any load connected because 500Volts between Line and CPC can damage components within appliances. I don't think you did a figure 8 R1+R2 test on the sockets; do you think R2 with the wander lead is adequate for all circuits including sockets? Thanks
Shear tools are not the perfect solution either, a small chamfer applied with a small file, or an emery block is best in order to create a lead in for the thread to start correctly without becoming cross threaded, which is the cause of this issue.
@@galaxion62 Hi Jordan agreed shear tool not perfect...actually when you think 3.5m screws have been used since....40's?...long before?.... the real solution probably lies in a different modern universally accepted fixing and termination screws standardised so you don't have to carry 8, 9 10 screw drivers around all the time, dream-on! - re-threading during EICRs and repairs enough to do your head in........
It doesn’t prove polarity on sockets so I don’t think it is
my 3.5 rethreather has been snapped off for a long time and its still working fine.
Graham Barber - that's a familiar name - turns out he did the entire fit out in our place in Soham (previous owners built the house around 2000/2001) - the stuff he did looks sound, some of the add-ons that have were put in after him (I suspect) look decidedly ropey :s
Don't forget cables concealed in the walls. Why did you not switch off the boiler spur to carry out the insulation resistance test on this circuit. .. Nice bit of testing .
I just brought the ck 3.5 rethreader as well as I lost mine( I'll probably find it in the van again).
Heaters in houses in the 80s were usually Storage heaters downstairs and Panel heaters in the bedrooms, your generous on the one year of c2s I've given Just one month before lol
Yeah I’ve already fitted a new Hager RCBO board there, that video will come next.
@@artisanelectrics sorry I deleted the comment about the consumer unit as you mentioned it later in the video
Should try the armeg rethreader, longer than the CK and can rethread through the socket hole
Hi Jordan. Like you we are being asked to do plenty of EICRs for landlords.Please don’t take it as a criticism as anything to make them quicker all for the better. I assume that I’m over egging the pudding it as I include R1+R2 readings, as you are doing R2 will that be enough on the cert at the end. ?
Hi do you just fill the r2 column on cert or do you also do you r1 and r2 readings as well
Like the idea of doing end to ends done at the socket. I live in a house with everything twisted together😫
All very well giving them 1 year to make improvements, but do the regs require the installation to be updated? It can be that an existing installation, if it has no faults under the regs it was installed under, can continue. Be careful you do not get yourself a bad name for unnecessary changes.
The best cutting tool for cutting 3.5mm socket outlet screws are the very old crimping tools which have pre threaded hole in their handles which allows you to screw the 3.5 screws into it to get a clean cut,I beleive you can still purchase those
Hi Jordan
On a test, do you charge a price for the board plus circuits or just your hourly rate?
Also how long does the average test take for you eg. This flat?
Cheers!
I would be wary of untwisting those cpcs , copper work hardens and becomes brittle. If one of those cpcs snapped it would cause an awkward situation to resolve. In general you don't want create additional damage.
one grat OK because of the Shadow :-D, good job!
20:50 did you check the other end of the gas bond on the inside wall to see if it is in the same sealed tube as the gas pipe and and if it not then mention the gas bond passing through the back of the meter box and through the cavity (thus potentially allowing leaking gas to drop into the cavity )
Good point but which a squirt of intumescent sealant would take care of in a jiffy
Test a the socket and note Jordan, life’s to short for messing in those old consumer units. Worst case you’ll get a lower than expected r2 but prove the ring is complete with no rings of the ring and get your R1R2. Jobs a goodun
Stopcock. Never surprises me these days where they are. Did a flat in a small council block. Single storey flats ground floor and then duplex flats on the first and second floors. We were doing a duplex upstairs. Asked the tenant where the stop cock was. She said it was in the bathroom (on the second floor). I insisted it couldn't be. Went to look and yes, there it was. Very odd. 🤔
Haha so true
Hi just watched this video and found it very informative. as i'm just trying to get started with EICR testing it would be good to know what he readings should be for the various tests and what settings the meter needs to on. I am a fully qualified electrician but only up too 16th addition do i need to get any other qualification to allow me too do EICR reports?
thanks
Bob
Great video as always. Just a question, if the cover came of the isolater at the DB could you not do the Ze from there? Looks like the main earth would of came out. Or am i missing something? To risky?
You probs should check both sides of the doubles if you are doing every socket.
Excellent.
I've got a test coming up this week in my flat which is owned by a housing company. I've unplugged my soundbar and sub and speakers from the extension lead. Should I be concerned with a test?
The spur in the kitchen at high level would be for a down flow heater mate
If a tenant is still living in a property while a test is done do you have to move white goods to get to the sockets?
C3 for no rcd on the sockets... it was fine when installed. Supp bonding everything including your fly zip is a 16th edition thing, what date did that take over from 15th?
Supplementary bonding everything was 15th edition.
@@beardedsparks2825 absolutely correct :)
If the single earth tag on the boiler fuse spur lined up with the non fixed lug on the metal back box then would you put a link to the metal back box as it's not connected to a fixed lug. Enjoyed the video.
Good question! John ward just made a video about this, you should check it out!
Why don’t you check for back bonding on eicr
For the sake of a few extra seconds, I prefer threading the 3.5mm pattress machine screws thru a combi cutter which shears them off nice and square and never have issues with cross threading. Takes a few seconds longer but neater.
Which combi cutter do you use?
My NWS pliers have this function too, brilliant no crossed threads
I use the KNIP CRIMPING PLIER 240MM, also makes a nice clean cut.
Was that 1g socket box earthed?
Careful of shadows Jordan lol 😝
🤣🤣🤣🤣
For the Ze you could have just removed the bonding conductors at the clamp side which would have isolated them from the main earth? Also when doing R2 you should really remove the bonding to avoid any parallel paths (Though not likely to be an issue). Although I totally agree a new RCBO or dual RCD board is by far the better option, another alternative to becoming compliant would be to change the downstairs socket to a socket with combined RCD and FCU with RCD for the heater in the bathroom as that would then comply.
Are you seeing more work for EICR with the changes to landlord legislation requiring EICR's?
I’ve said the same about parallel paths in a couple of previous videos.
Was always told do your bond test then leave disconnected do your r1+r2 or r2then re connect prior to IR tests
Still waiting for the in depth review of your fluke 1664fc
Hi I’m a young spark and have not a lot of experience in EICR’s what I do know was either self taught via books or CZcams. Was wondering if you checked every point (dropped a switch or socket forward) and tested from every point or is it just more like test majority of points and if anything suspect is found you’ll check every point? Thanks love your videos
Test 10% on larger properties, if there is a lot if issues found initially, then it is worth testing more if not everything. As this was a small property, it made sense to test everything.
the 2.5mm cable attached to the main water bonding was probably a supplementary bonding cable. do you not need to test for that since there is no rcd ? would be great to see that in the video
Should be verifying supplementary bonding in the bathroom if no additional protection on all ccts within otherwise it’s a c2 ,
Can you have an electric heater in the bathroom is the a restriction that they should be a something 44 rated which I’m sure that heater is not.
Do you not check inside the RCD?
I didn't see any R1+R2 testing? Only a Zs... How was you calculating R1+R2 as I was always told subtracting Ze from Zs was a naughty way of doing it. Is that correct?
How is anyone supposed to use a living room of that size? And where's the Fridge supposed to go?
Who designs/builds these things?
so why did this fail and need a new rcbo fusebox?
How was that light end of line at 10.22 ? It simply had a neutral and a switch line. (Meaning a junction box in the attick/loft)
It looked end of line to me whether power fed from the switch or fed from the ceiling. Last in the run as no loop out. why would you need a junction box with a pendant ?
Anything correctly wired to previous versions of the regs cannot be coded to anything other than C3 (unless you've got something obviously dangerous like VIR cables or wooden back CUs) So the lack of RCD protection (normal for a property of that age) is a C3.
Nope. External sockets and bathrooms with out sub bonding require an RCD
Wrong. No RCD protection for sockets AND Lighting is a c2 . I really wish people would stop thinking old wiring regs is a pass it’s absolutely ridiculous
The problem arises because Guidance Note 3 says No RCD protection is a C3 which is what is taught on 2391 (I teach it for a living) However I have always tested to latest regs so Sockets no RCD for use outside should be a C2, No RCD in bathroom with no Supp Bonding is a C2 as per Best Practice Guide 4 and the Napit Codebreakers book.
Hi there, I’ve recently bought a property in london which has an ancient fuse panel … looks like it’s from the war! I’m concerned that this is only the harbinger of things to be uncovered when I get an eicr done … I’ve been impressed by the work you have done in your videos and you sound very sensible and fair … possibly a bit of a tough question but are there any electricians you would recommend in london who are as thorough and ethical as you are? I don’t want to engage a cowboy who quotes low and then piles on the costs …
Check out Thomas Nargy. He has clips on here and works in London.
How are you proving polarity before re-energising the circuits when you only use the R2 method for proving continuity of earth at accessories?
John MacLean bare in mind this isn’t initial verification
Polarity is done when doing Zs test
Supplementary bonding in bathrooms ? , another c2 on the list if not installed
This is missed by sooo many ‘electrical inspectirs’
@@SME_Ste I look for it, (trained in 1989 but no current quals except for 18th ed)... my colleague (who did 2391) doesn't ever pick it up lol
But I am still way more competent (and so is he!) than any of these 'ooo i need part pee' course people. Bitter? yes
Did you ever check that the light was class 2 - it looked like one of the modern class 2 lights. No earh required.
Hi will an eicr test pick up a loose wire connection in a socket outlet? Thanks
@PappaSmurfJoe thank you
Hi All,
My comment is not really related to the video.
There was a previous company who did an EICR on a bus station and for some reasons all the circuits in the DB in the office has been marked as "Unable to locate". I have been assigned for remedial work to locate these circuits. What type of certificate do I use and why?
Thank you
PS this job has already been completed and I have used the EICR for it. However my supervisor does not totally agree with this despite all the reasons I gave, which is why I am asking for second opinions.
Hmmm testing 500 volt at first with vulnerable circuits ie boiler and cooker pcr board in line with cooker control unit in on position hmmm I like you tested all earths at all switches a sure fire miss with a lot of testers obviously if dry lining box won’t show up but good practise
Another good video Jordan. Am assuming the new LED light fitting in the kitchen was a class 2 as you skip that in the video ?
Your shadow looks like one of those statues on Easter Island 😆😆😆
When testing bonding conductors disconnect at consumer unit and test between there and the pipe the bonding clamp is connected to that way it makes sure the bonding clamp connection onto the pipework is good thats how I do it anyway
is there a reason why you wouldn't make right the light polarity, while your there? I'm not criticising, as we all have slightly different ideas and ways of doing things, just interested in your stance on it. Is it to save on time, as you may of given a fixed price which does not account for remedial work during inspection? Either way, the customer is getting a proper job there, and were getting a good video to watch.
Thanks I could have done it I guess but just didn’t see the need.
@@artisanelectrics fair enough. I suppose the client gets the service they pay for, just watched your video when you explain that the timings are tight due to how much your being payed. If they pay just for the inspection and tesing, then its a fair one, if they give a fair price where you can spend a bit more time, then you can help them out. Cheers Jordon for getting back. Little interactions like these help me learn.
The fine for a landlord for not having a test is £200 . You have to wat up if it's worth getting done . Just pay the fine if found out
No RCD protection for the lighting neither!
Still don’t understand why you do r2 then zs when you could just do r1+r2 dead and no need for chopsticks live zs testing on the lights
more tests are better. This whole crap about 'ooo there's a possibility of contact with a live conductor' using GS38 compliant probes.... is just H&S BS. he's being conscientious
If you do R1 +R2 you don't need to do zs? Do you then calculate zs by adding ze and r1 and R2 ?
@@Gymreview84 correct
@@Marco-mg9tv thanks buddy . I passed my test and inspect in 2014 but I've done no testing since at all so I'm reading up on it
I think you need to look under loft insulation to see if cables are underneath (incorrect). Also what what is the 2.5 cable at stopcock used for? CUs too high . Socket under unit should not be fixed to carcass / rear hardboard.
Exactly 19:00 sparks fly
C2 on the bathroom light
For the lack of IP rating?
@@paulmccann4171 no for lack of rcd
Isn't there supposed to be mains fire alarm in a rental property?
Doesnt come under EICRs
Plus that's only council in private rentals batteries are fine
Hi Paul sadly you are wrong about the fire alarm there is a requirement under The Domestic Fire Alarm Regulations [BS 5839 Part 6 - 2019] that by no later than 01/04/2021 ALL rental properties in England and Wales must have a minimum of a Grade D LD2 smoke alarm system which means Mains Powered and interlinked Smoke in Entrance Hall and Landing within 7.5 meters of every bedroom, 1 in any living rooms and a heat alarm in the kitchen. The only use of Battery allowed now is if they are 10 year non removable lithium ion batteries but they still need to be interlinked via radio link if necessary. I appreciate this video was shot before that but this date has been set in stone for over 2 years now.
@@wazharrison186 not in wales standard battery ones still are ok regulations haven’t changed yet unless the property was built after 1992 .it’s really poor and they still haven’t enforced eicrs only good landlords have them done .
are smart meters bad for human health ?
Can someone please answer me if RCBO’s are a legal requirement these days on a kitchen ring in a tenanted property ?
As I think the sparks who’s recently tested is giving me false information. It’s a safety certificate after all and surly this should only be an improvement.
If you currently have RCD protection for your sockets then you should have, and RCBO is a good way of doing it.
Thank you for replying.
RCD protection was only on up and down rings but not on the kitchen and oven circuits. The test was failed for that reason. I was told any circuits 32amp or above need to be protected.
Was the electrician correct in saying this regarding the 18th Edition regulations.
This is for a rental property.
IR test with line and neutral with 500vDc ?????
He switched to 250v for L+N test. Only one the redundant board with nothing connected, he retested at 500v
Can't hear it
Why would you render the installation deemed to be potentially dangerous while it was perfectly legal at the time of the installation???Was the 16th edition and its amendments dangerous at the time of the installation not implementing an ADS. I am sure we all know RCDs were around away before the 16th edition and Mr BS 7671 didn’t feel like to put them in the regs or perhaps he forgot!!!
The regs were genuinely designed to keep the consumer safe. How do we know, what you are doing will be perfectly legal in 5years time or so, when 19th or 20th edition comes along.
c2 and c1 codes are for a potential danger, ie live conductors are clearly exposed causing an imminent and immediate danger. Deterioration of the installation, risk of fire, alarming reading..... Omission of an RCD in a new installation I would agree but in an old house it is clearly a c3 or perhaps if you want to be an orthodox suggest an RCD SOCKET close to the main door.
On your thinking you’d have rewireable fuses , non fire rated downlights & vulcanised rubber cable down as a pass. Times change, things move on and get safer. Properties need to be up to the most up to date regulations. Poor Mr Smith got an electric shock & died, such a shame he didn’t get told to put RCD protection on his electrics - still , at least it was safe at the time of install.
Wlondoner is correct, the installation met regulations and still does meet the regulations for when it was installed. New regulations do not mean an automatic fail of old circuits , following your thinking all properties more than 20 years old need to be bulldozed because they fail to meet the latest standards , which is plain silly . This is why we have codes which deem what is and is not a failure . Yes by all means advise the client the electrical system isnt up to todays regulations , this doesnt automatically mean its unsafe .
steve robinson no - following my thinking we would replace consumer units where necessary and rectify any faults. This is the issue , overhyping the extent of works, it’s usually a days rectification if that.
The coding is at the discretion of the inspector,there are 2 main issues
1. Inspectors giving c1 and c2 codes when they should only be c3 improvement recommended
And
2. Inspectors who have only been on a 5 week course and have no experience or knowledge of electrical installations so they code 2 everything to be on the safe side
@@fightdisciple9192 Absolutely correct. None of those would be a anything more than a C3 provided the rubber cable was in good condition (it rarely is)
C3 allows you to add recommendations in a separate field. Rubber cable would be a 'STRONGLY RECOMMENDED THE CUSTOMER HAS THE PROPERTY REWIRED' (IN ALL CAPS) but it is absolutely NOT a fail if it was fine when installed and still complies to THOSE standards.
One of the few cases where i'd agree with you is neutral fusing. That is demonstrably dangerous with a single fault. That would be a C2
Edit: on thought, rubber wiring would be a FI.. you'd need to take off every accessory and find every JB to ensure it was compliant. But I am still angry at your kind of thinking where every house in the entire country needs rewiring for every amendment. As a person in an owner occupied property... I say 'screw that'
As a recently retired industrial JIB GOLD CARD APPROVED Electrician of 50 years I would like your opinion,not what the so called regs bible says but what's your opinion on them saying that there is no need (not requirement) for a cpc to be wired to a non metallic light fitting,because in my whole career starting as a young apprentice I had it drummed into me that unless it's a extra low voltage source that you are wiring then as good electrical practice,which by the way I have never heard used on your podcasts or several others I've been on ever mentioned that word ,I was taught that the need for a cpc was that even though the source didn't require an earthwire we 100% of the time and I'm going back to 1970 when I started I was told the need for a cpc being run in a twin and earth cable or a flex is to afford some sort of protection for that cable or for somebody who may accidently penertrate that cable there would be at least a chance that the earthwire may be penertrated along with the line cable thus tripping the circuit and not killing the person,I know that in modern up to date consumer units have technically superb protective devices in place,but all I see you do is to go into properties that don't have them thus telling me my argument about always running a cpc in twin and earth and flexs holds water
Thought if you give an unsatisfactory result then they only get 28 days to arrange corrective measures ??
Which piece of literature says this? I've been trying to find it for ages.
Alex Kane I saw it on one of the recent webinars but can’t for the life of me remember which one
The Electrical Safety Standards in the Private Rented Sector (England) Regulations 2020
Point 7.... www.gov.uk/government/publications/electrical-safety-standards-in-the-private-rented-sector-guidance-for-landlords-tenants-and-local-authorities/guide-for-landlords-electrical-safety-standards-in-the-private-rented-sector
@@Ghbarl Doesnt mean all the wiring has to meet 18th regs , if you read the piece of legislation it states (a clip from the regs) Existing installations that have been installed in accordance with earlier editions of the Wiring Regulations may not comply with the 18th edition in every respect. This does not necessarily mean that they are unsafe for continued use or require upgrading. Any works that are code 3 do not require to be performed its at landlord's descretion