Putting mine in 3 keeps it off of OD longer, the friction zone is different also. Seems as torquey but easier to manage on a launch or w/e you wanna call it.
I have a 60t sprocket that I will be putting on my Trailmaster 200. Will that make this unnecessary for me? Or would it improve my low end torque even more?
So the part that is adjusted will open at different speeds depending on what setting the spring is set to. Pretty sure the 3 setting the rear pully will open up slower which helps with acceleration. However with it opening too slow, you’ll loose some launch speed, so 2 would be the best option
My 40 series came with only red spring set in the only hole that's made for it do I have to drill more hole and if so how far apart should I drill them
Looks like the holes are about 30 degrees apart. Just add 2 holes like numbers on a clock (going counter-clockwise) and you'll have the correct spacing
Do you know if there’s a way to get more play out of your throttle? I feel my throttle caps to fast, it’s as if I’m always full throttle just to get going. Maybe it’s how my bike is built cause I bought it used and it has a bunch of springs on the wires I don’t wanna mess with. I’ve also blown several throttles. Maybe recommend, I’m commenting bc I see comments from 1 month ago and you seem knowledgeable.
Is that brass ring wore down on one side I flipped mine it did the same thing top out quick I flipped it back to wore down side and speed is way better
@@GrayHairedDad I disagree. For drag racing you want the highest RPM possible during the belt shift under full throttle. You would use a yellow spring in the number 3 hole. I don't drag race but tested all this with a tach that has a max RPM recall function. Under full throttle I currently get 4670 RPM at the belt shift on my Coleman 200 with 9/60 tooth gearing with the yellow spring in the number 3 hole. The gearing plays a big part. I would never see that kind of RPM with stock Coleman gearing. Using the light tension green spring is horrible from a performance perspective. The belt shifts way too early. I wouldn't think that anyone drag races with a stock 30 series driver these days. Now you would just get a Juggernaut or Tork-Zilla and gear properly for it. But the stock driver is easier to tune for high RPM launches.
110 links. I don't remember how many I took out. RK Racing Chain M420-110 (420 Series) 110-Links Standard Non O-Ring Chain with Connecting Link a.co/d/66A6aRc
Help me understand.. so all three settings give you the same top speed BUT... setting 1 allows for faster acceleration and setting 3 gives you more torque at higher RPMs?
@@GrayHairedDad My application is on a golf cart converted to a Predator212 powered dump buggy. I don't really care about top end speed, I just want the thing to lock up and not slip the belt as quickly as possible. So....hole 3 gets me closest to that, am I understanding correctly?
Too bad they never made a steeper helix for the driven clutches, the holes and yellow spring kinda band-aid the problem. Really these clutches are designed to go onto a gokart or minibike that had a functional chain clutch and ample gearing. One should limit the top speed at full shift out to about 30 mph, at 3650 (governed) rpm. The potential to go 50 plus mph really puts a strain on these clutches, and a 40 series or bigger is a logical solution if its speed your after. Sounds kinda crazy, but i think im gonna try a series 20 driver with a series 40 driven. The stock weight and spring combo for 2200 rpm engagement seems to be a nice spot for 200cc sized engines with a stock cam. The secondary is the limiting factor between series 20 and 30 imo. The helix is steeper on the series 40, so it should grip the belt much better with high ratios, without excessive secondary spring pressure.
@@GrayHairedDad will do! I'll pry make a video if I end up doing that. My ct200u is currently waiting on a new tav2 kit, and I am going to try it first with the 10/50 gearing. Got the yellow spring coming too, and I might try that gold compression spring if i can get my hands on one. Then I'll have acceleration and top speed times to compare with. The 20/40 setup will only achieve a 1.4 to 1 final ratio, so I'll have to gear accordingly as well, to keep it an apples to apples comparison.
Think of it as a race car in hole one if you want to get there to top speed faster you drive a race car but have no torque. A semi truck hole 3 will get you there to top speed slower buy you will have way more torque.
Just found your video and I’m sure I’m late, but it’s actually a great video and I learned a lot in a very short time….. Thank you!
I learned something new today! Thanks.
Thank You for information and advice
Need that 😊
Putting mine in 3 keeps it off of OD longer, the friction zone is different also.
Seems as torquey but easier to manage on a launch or w/e you wanna call it.
Thank fuck someone explained what the difference the holes makes instead of just saying "adjust the holes" lol
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I have a 60t sprocket that I will be putting on my Trailmaster 200. Will that make this unnecessary for me? Or would it improve my low end torque even more?
The small lock ring pliers are hard to use !!
So the part that is adjusted will open at different speeds depending on what setting the spring is set to. Pretty sure the 3 setting the rear pully will open up slower which helps with acceleration. However with it opening too slow, you’ll loose some launch speed, so 2 would be the best option
I agree
I have a car I built by hand (it weighs about 250kg including my weight) and got it up to 32mph with a stock honda gx160
Finally got the snap ring off, but it still will not come apart
My 40 series came with only red spring set in the only hole that's made for it do I have to drill more hole and if so how far apart should I drill them
Looks like the holes are about 30 degrees apart. Just add 2 holes like numbers on a clock (going counter-clockwise) and you'll have the correct spacing
Do you know if there’s a way to get more play out of your throttle? I feel my throttle caps to fast, it’s as if I’m always full throttle just to get going. Maybe it’s how my bike is built cause I bought it used and it has a bunch of springs on the wires I don’t wanna mess with. I’ve also blown several throttles. Maybe recommend, I’m commenting bc I see comments from 1 month ago and you seem knowledgeable.
Is that brass ring wore down on one side I flipped mine it did the same thing top out quick I flipped it back to wore down side and speed is way better
I’m having a problem where I have to rev my bike to about 1/3 throttle before it starts to engage. Would adjusting the spring help with that?
Yes it would
Best whole for drag racing
1
@@GrayHairedDad I disagree. For drag racing you want the highest RPM possible during the belt shift under full throttle. You would use a yellow spring in the number 3 hole.
I don't drag race but tested all this with a tach that has a max RPM recall function. Under full throttle I currently get 4670 RPM at the belt shift on my Coleman 200 with 9/60 tooth gearing with the yellow spring in the number 3 hole. The gearing plays a big part. I would never see that kind of RPM with stock Coleman gearing. Using the light tension green spring is horrible from a performance perspective. The belt shifts way too early.
I wouldn't think that anyone drag races with a stock 30 series driver these days. Now you would just get a Juggernaut or Tork-Zilla and gear properly for it. But the stock driver is easier to tune for high RPM launches.
@@Deucealive75 Thanks for the knowledge !!!
How big was your chain when u got it and how many links did u take out
110 links. I don't remember how many I took out. RK Racing Chain M420-110 (420 Series) 110-Links Standard Non O-Ring Chain with Connecting Link a.co/d/66A6aRc
What would be best for driving on the road?
I would use hole 2
@@GrayHairedDad I put it in hole 3 and I can FEEL the torque! I also notice a lot less slipping and lag (it's on a Predator 301).
Hole one is good but it's just slow to get to high speeds
Help me understand.. so all three settings give you the same top speed BUT... setting 1 allows for faster acceleration and setting 3 gives you more torque at higher RPMs?
Yes. But for hole 3 you get more power at lower RPM same top end speed. In hole 3 it will take you longer to get to top speed.
Hole 1 = Speed/Faster
Hole 2 = Faster/Speed + Power
Hole 3 = Power
@@GrayHairedDad My application is on a golf cart converted to a Predator212 powered dump buggy. I don't really care about top end speed, I just want the thing to lock up and not slip the belt as quickly as possible. So....hole 3 gets me closest to that, am I understanding correctly?
Correct you would want it on hole three for your set up. You could also ajust your sprocket size to be bigger or smaller to obtain your goals.
Too bad they never made a steeper helix for the driven clutches, the holes and yellow spring kinda band-aid the problem. Really these clutches are designed to go onto a gokart or minibike that had a functional chain clutch and ample gearing. One should limit the top speed at full shift out to about 30 mph, at 3650 (governed) rpm. The potential to go 50 plus mph really puts a strain on these clutches, and a 40 series or bigger is a logical solution if its speed your after.
Sounds kinda crazy, but i think im gonna try a series 20 driver with a series 40 driven. The stock weight and spring combo for 2200 rpm engagement seems to be a nice spot for 200cc sized engines with a stock cam. The secondary is the limiting factor between series 20 and 30 imo. The helix is steeper on the series 40, so it should grip the belt much better with high ratios, without excessive secondary spring pressure.
Nice you will have to let me know how it turns out.
@@GrayHairedDad will do! I'll pry make a video if I end up doing that. My ct200u is currently waiting on a new tav2 kit, and I am going to try it first with the 10/50 gearing. Got the yellow spring coming too, and I might try that gold compression spring if i can get my hands on one. Then I'll have acceleration and top speed times to compare with. The 20/40 setup will only achieve a 1.4 to 1 final ratio, so I'll have to gear accordingly as well, to keep it an apples to apples comparison.
I thought those were called snap rings, but I thought I heard you call it a pin.
Technically it's a retaining ring lol
This is confusing. Why put it in hole 1 if the final drive is the same?
Think of it as a race car in hole one if you want to get there to top speed faster you drive a race car but have no torque.
A semi truck hole 3 will get you there to top speed slower buy you will have way more torque.
I literally lost 5 miles doing this
What adjustment did you make? 1 or 3 thats your answer