How To Strap Down a Side-By-Side Like a Pro!
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
- (www.TFLoffroad.com) How To Easily Strap Down a Side-By-Side Like a Pro!
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What's better machine for you? ATV or Side-By-Side: czcams.com/video/YFD2wVJy8YA/video.html
Have both and use both, atv for hunting and sxs for the wife and I to have fun in.
Own both. Both serve a purpose
Atv, you can stand up to stretch out the back.
i have both, but I have never driven a side by side yet because I just bought it today. I love the Grizzly but my wife won't go with me anymore as she is getting older. NOT me, here.... lol... So, we are going to the Grizley to the son in law and we will run the I don't know how to spell it TREX 4, I don't think that is right. I am not a brand name guy... Hope all is well, thanks for the great information... Ken... from New Brunswick, Canada...
There really shouldn't be a DISCUSSION!! Tie downs should be straight forward! Simple rules apply.
Straps should be as SHORT as possible, for less play!
Straps should be as straight as possible! No crossing over each other!
They should be attached as LOW as possible on machine. NOT ON THE FRAME! This compresses the suspension which doesn't allow machine to move, so it transfers all the rocking and bumps to your TRAILORS suspension! And it's not as good as your machines is!!
Strap to the part of your machine that actually moves, THE TIRES!! A Straight, Short strap on tires is best, either a good "net" or "sling" system that won't slide off on hwy bumps! MANY DO!!
A single, short straight as possible strap works well just looped threw each wheel.
If wrapping on wheel is not an option , the low, short and straight approach is possible on suspension parts, they move too!!
I carry my sxs on the flatdeck of my F250, with little room error!! So simple and straightforward works for me!! 🤙😎
Having worked around heavy equipment for over 50 years, I agree with the technique you’ve shown here. Good job.
I have been using a Louisiana Trailer Dog to secure my 900 RZR and Sportsman 500 to the trailer for well over 12yrs with no issues. This type of securing system works great it’s safe, easy and quick.
Only thing I was always taught that you need weight on the tongue. I pull my ranger crew up against the front rail. Having the UTV farther back like this can allow the trailer to fishtail in an emergency.
We always use 4 straps. We just don’t want it to move much. We go on dirt roads a lot, so it just makes sense. Thanks for the information. 😀
Just upgraded from 4wheelers to a side by side. Very helpful. Thank you!
I always use 4 straps or chains when tying down loads always did when I was in the military and I guess it became a habbit doing it that way your videos are great and very informative for those that are trying to learn about the sport and the safety side of hauling your equipment to and from your play grounds thanks your awesome
It might be good to speak about weight distribution when strapping your machine down. Very Important piece. Thanks.
I've tied gown like this for over 10 years
Machine has always been solid 💪🏽
I like using the Emerson wheel and chock strap kit. Then the suspension can travel freely with no worry's of snapping a strap.
The manufacturer should be incorporating tie down points on these already expensive vehicles, instead of leaving it up to inexperienced people to decide the best place to attach the tie down straps. Too many amateurs on CZcams, (and you are one of them) showing us the “supposed correct way” to tie down a load.
WHY? it's not up to the manufacture to baby idiots. Nor can the predict what type of connection points will be on everyone's haulers.
"Too many amateurs on CZcams, (and you are one of them) showing us the “supposed correct way” to tie down a load." Did you not hear the part about this? @ 0:17
Steve - Thanks for the tutorial. Best I've seen that I can apply to my golf cart transportation.
Always great videos... love what you do and how you do it! Cheers!
Well after using balers twine for years , this video showed me that wasn't right,, LOL Just kidding...... I use 2 straps in the rear connecting to the trailer hitch and then the winch on the front with the UTV up against the front rail of the trailer, doesn't weigh down the truck with my size of trailer and still has good weight distribution between the trailer axles and truck. Thanks for taking the time for posting TFLoffroad and thankyou to all who contributed. Very interesting video.
Read above post!
First off, great video once again bud! I agree with everything u said here.... I’ve compressed shocks for trips on sleds and quads all my life and have never had a shock failure as a result.... I’ve had machines bounce and straps pop loose - until I purchased Shock Straps.... They’re incredible and the only straps I use to secure my SxS now.... One on each corner and they’ll never, ever loosen.... Check out their reviews for yourself!! Anyway, just my experience! Keep up the good work man!
I’ll try it on my Polaris. Thanks for the idea. 👍🏻
Super helpful video! Thanks for posting
I use a trailer with E tracks installed in the floor, and I don’t strap my side-by-side down by the winch points bumpers or hitch point. I strap down the tires. They have the least amount of movement. Side-by-side with flexy squishy suspension will bounce and move around a lot while you’re towing and can cause any straps mounted to the body to become loose or disconnected very easily. Straps that go over and straddle the tires are perfect, and do not come loose since the tires don’t move much...I highly doubt that compressing the suspension for trailering will do any damage. If it did, the manufacturer wouldn’t ship them that way. Especially considering they have to warranty the product. Why would they intentionally ship it in a way that would knowingly damage the suspension?
E tracks & strap over every tire is exactly what I do.
All these comments and no one has quoted a UTV manufacturer. So here goes - John Deere's owners manual for the XUV series UTV's describes the exact process used here. Their machines do have a section of frame exposed between the front wheels where they show the straps being attached and they also use the safety chain loops by the rear trailer hitch.
I am sure that the other manufacturer's have tie-down guidance in their manuals. Perhaps those should be followed in lieu of what you "think" is best.
Thanks for the info. Helped me out!
I use 4 smaller ratchet straps one over the center of each tire then put the hooks to drings bolted to trailer floor one in the front and one in the rear tire on all 4 tires . never had a problem and with the drings i can fold them over when done vs a system like Erickson etrac and have a flat floor
I tie down low too, but I always make a stop after about 15 minutes of towing to check the straps. and then maybe a hour down the road too or at gas stops on a long drive.
So a while back I was transporting a Honda Rancher on the back of my trailer. I hooked 4 tie down straps to each corner of the front and rear racks. I then looped the other end of the tie downs under each stake pocket like you did in this video and compressed the suspension and went on my way. About an hour later near Lake Berryessa in Napa County California, I drove over a rather abrupt bridge abutment which rapidly compressed my trailer and subsequently my quad, allowing all four straps to unhook out of their stake pockets. I noticed something out of the corner of my eye and as I looked in the right side mirror, I witnessed my 600 lb Honda doing cartwheels down the street. Luckily no one was either behind me or coming the opposite direction and after backing up with my 4 way flashers on, a van full of Mexican fieldworkers drove up and I convinced 6 guys to get out and we picked up the mangled quad and placed it back onto the trailer where I re-strapped the quad and continued onto my destination. I had been strapping down quads for 30 years prior to this without any issues. I never loop the end of my straps in that fashion anymore. Now I make sure that the ends face upward and go through the stake pockets or rails of my trailer so that if they do compress for some reason the hooks are facing up so that the strap can become slack but the hooks to never become dislodged. I would make this same recommendation to you as well. Otherwise, As always, this was a really good video.
That sucks about your Rancher flipping out.
This guy presents likes a boss. Thank you!
Using 4 straps at each corner is my preferred method too. Because, it also creates a double fault for the strap. If you only have one strap holding down front and then one in the rear...and the strap fails or falls off, then you have major problems!! If I have someone with me, then I have them sit on the rear or front bumper of the machine...and help compress it just a little. So, when the strap tightens, then it makes for more resistance. FUN stuff!!
I use 4 Erickson straps to tie down all 4 corners. I go through the rim and the wheel and strap it down. You should never strap off the frame ATV bounces up and down and the straps get loose. If you strap the unsprung weight which is your rim and tire it’ll never move. Nice thing about Erickson straps they’ll actually will ratchet up to 2” if strap loosens. They have the patent on that design. Ontario law requires 4 point hook up. One strap to 2 tie-downs on the trailer is not legal in Ontario. I think it’s a $395 fine if they catch you for insecure load. I don’t think you’ll do any damage strapping down on the frame compressing the suspension I just prefer to do it the other way. That way your ATV or side-by-side bounces with the trailer not against the trailer. The tightening and loosening of the strap as the ATV bounces up and down hooked to the frame will eventually break the strap
the more and more that I watch your channel the more I'm impressed you are very detail oriented and explain yourself clearly, so I have subscribed. I strap my sxs and atv like you show here but one thing you should have mentioned is tying up the extra strap, so many times you see these straps blowing in the wind as they are going down the highway.
Hello David I have a great way to take care of the extra strap. I have a product called Strap Caddie our website is TheStrapCaddie.com come by and check up out. Thanks for bring this to everybody's attention. Strap Caddie
@@strapcaddie7547 All of these methods of tying the tail of the strap to the securement device are a waste of time, money, and not the correct way to do this. Any excess should be wound up in a neat manner and placed UNDER the securing strap before the last tightening of the strap. This way, if the strap comes loose, the tail will wave in the wind long before the strap falls completely off the load. The driver will see the waving tail and correct the problem long before the strap is lost.
The more I watch this video, the more I think this guy is a total idiot! NEVER! compress the suspension! Always hook closest to wheel or over the tire.
Never strap to chassis strap down the tires or as close to tire as possible!!! Yes go watchvthe shock therapy video!!
For our General, I use 2 of the 2" straps like you used in the video. One through the lowest point of the front bumper then to the front of the trailer. In the rear, I slide the strap into the hitch receiver, put a hitch pin through the loop in the strap and run the strap ends to the rear corners of the trailer. Nearly the same setup when trailering the atv's and it's worked great for nerly 30 years. On a side note, a nice piece of shipping cardboard works really well when put between the strap and a "sharp" edge that the strap will be against.
That one strap had some pretty good Knicks in it WLL is on a new strap every time you use the straps it decreases and not locking the ratchets are my biggest petpeves
Good tips about the sharp edges and using cloth protect the straps from fraying or splitting. I have a few suggestions so take them with a grain of salt.
Fist, drive your side by side all the way to the front of the trailer and put the wheels against those cross bars. Then use two straps on the front bumper of the SxS and pull them down tight to each front corner of the trailer. That's a really heavy duty trailer you have there, putting the machine up front won't hurt your handling or tongue weight. Also, if you have to slam on the brakes the ATV can't nudge forward because you already have the wheels against the bars.
Second, I strongly believe in redundancy so I always use 4 straps on an ATV or side by side. If you only have one strap at the front and it loosens up or breaks it will allow the machine to rock backward and the rear ones will get loose too.
In 2019 I bought Erikson Wheel Chocks for all four wheels and I love them! They never seem to come loose and the suspension is free to work.
Check out this video about tongue weight czcams.com/video/w9Dgxe584Ss/video.html
You didn’t complete the process because you never said that isn’t going anywhere.
this is kina old ,but im just now first just seeing it. I mostly use chain and binders. good straps are getting harder to find , more so in the smaller sizes. not sure whats wrong with hooking to a arms. Been doing it for years without any issues. But it may depend on the machine. They are all a little different . I use 4 chains or straps on anything with wheels. I have seen more than one atv and a lawn tractor laying on the side of the highway this year.
Not supposed to strap to the chassis. When the suspension flexes your cargo\side by side can move
Right, and even if the straps don't come loose, they can break after being put under stress over and over again
Have you read the owners manual or you just running your mouths
Always use 4 straps . I’ve tied down countless pieces of heavy equipment ( to include backhoes, RT cranes and bulldozers as well as several various military vehicles) on lowboys. The correct method is to anchor each strap / chain & binder to opposing corners . So your front right side of the vehicle would cross over to the front left corner of the trailer , front left to the side of the vehicle to the front right corner of the trailer ( and likewise for the rear ) forming an X pattern front and back . Keeping equal tension between the two , this maintains its position towards the center and prevents shifting from side to side , not just front to back . Always chock the wheels as well front and back .
Bad advice. Never compress the suspension. Tie down over the wheels.
Can Am Ships them with the suspension fully compressed. What makes it OK for them to do it and us not?
@@seangeiger8298 I realize that’s how canam ships them and it’s terrible for the suspension and Fox shocks will even tell you that. There’s no reason to compress the suspension every time you transport a vehicle when there are several great alternatives.
@@gravesru Thanks for the feed back!
Get the Erickson strap down kit. DO NOT DO THIS WITH YOUR ATV UTV OR SIDE BY SIDE. It’s not safe at all
We have used two grade chains and binders. We found some nice small binders at Murdock's. 1 FRONT 1 BACK if we are just going 3 hrs of travel we just bind it down and good to go. Only Issue is it's difficult in a trailer with sides. Straps work well, just found chains are more secure.
I use choke straps on the lower suspension and short ratchet straps. I have never damaged the A arms. have been doing this for years and thousands of miles. Only thing I saw you do wrong is the way you hook to the trailer. Never just put the hook under a stake pocket or rub rail. one bad bounce and the hook could come off. Watched a new side by side bounce down the interstate because of that. 35 years truckdriver and over 45 years of hauling experience
Great video but the one thing u should always do is make sure u close the handle all the way down.
It locks the spring lever in place.
Hey bud, I have a 2017 Can Am Outlander & and 2017 Can Am Commander. I tie both of them down with "D" rings mounted to the trailer bed. I have 8... 2 per tire. I run 1000lb ratchet straps over each tire and tighten then down just to the point where the tire starts to dent inward. Just by hanging the strap over the tire, then hooking up both ends... either unit will barely move as the strap will not slip on the tires.. I've been using this system since my first 2012 Can Am Outlander.. Only lost 1 strap due to forgetting to tighten it down. Otherwise I'll keep using this technique.. Thanks for the awesome job on explaining... Great job!!!
I use straps that have either e-tracks fittings or clasps in case the loads bounces the hook doesn’t let go.
This is literally how not to tie down a utv. Should be tied from the tires OR as close to the wheels as possible. This video should actually be removed.
You are absolutely 💯 right...
BS. He does great
What’s closer? Get off your high horse, the tie downs spots are both about as low as possible without tying to the tires, even then depending on your basket, your still higher.
You know ZERO about tie down. 😂😂😂😂
Tire perode
I really like the MACS wheel nets. Machine doesn't even wiggle.
One thing that everyone misses, the excess strap. I used to haul equipment and frequently used the for attachments. Take a bungie cord, big twist tie whatever, and roll tir excess strap up and secure it to the strap by the ratchet. It's secured, less mess and looks better.
The e track and up over the tires is the most secure, and less strenuous on your straps and machine.
If you are not strapping it by the tires then you are not strapping it down right. Strapping down the frame only makes for problems when you hit bumps unless you completely compress it which is never good.
I second the half-twist in the strap. It will eliminate the flapping and vibration. Also- roll up your straps in the opposite direction so the hook is on the outside of the roll. This way you can hook it and roll it out. Also, if you need to throw the strap over a load, you NEVER want to throw the steel hook- hold the hook and throw the strap. This way you won’t do damage or hit someone on the other side with a hunk of steel.
Definitely not the way to tie any vehicle down except for a motorcycle. Only tie down by tire ties or to the wheels directly.
I ALWAYS use four tiedowns on my UTV. Even though the minimum requirement is two, Monday morning quarterbacking in court to explain why I didn't use four is an argument I don't want to have.
My new Polaris Northstar Ultimate arrives in 1 month, so this video is very timely for me. I have a related question. My trailer is open like yours, what is the best way to prevent rocks from hitting the windshield when trailering?
7:18 Never use the safety chain holders for tie downs on any machine. Just take a look at how much metal you have to work with there. Certainly not enough to keep your hooks from simply tearing the material in an accident scenario.
On top of all of that there is a giant warning sticker on the hitch saying not to do it.
Also 4:51 your strap has been cut because its been rubbing on the frame, sharp edge or no. You should not be continuing to use a strap in that condition.
Idk how I got here from trying to find the little roll and loop hack for excess strap …
But… I have a d ring in the rear hitch on my sxs..
I run 1 strap through it to both back corners and tighten that..
and I d ring and loop 1 strap to both front corners of trailer off front frame hook under winch…
Go riding all sorts of places for weekends at a time and it’s never been an issue… strap 4wheelers by the tire. ….. guess I’m stupid, but stupid works
4 straps overkill? I think not. Should be the minimum and for the non-professionals, uninitiated and hobbyists (yes that’s me) to put a safety chain firmly to the rear axle or tie down point in addition so if you suddenly stop harder than you would like to and the straps snap, the safety chain will be your last line of defence from going forward.
Where on the trailer did you/do you attach the straps/tie downs?
Good.
I use the same pattern as you. I do daisy chain the balance of the strap, though.
since this video was kind of pointed towards first timers you might want to point out that you need to pull the strap completely through the ratchet before starting to ratcheting it up tight. I have lost several straps over the years because newbies start from the end and ratchet until the strap completely locks itself.
I hate to admit but I did that the first time using rachet straps. What a pain trying to get the straps undone.
I also use my winch on the front to tie down but use a ratchet strap through the snow plow mount and another on the rear attached to receiver hitch. I pull some compression on suspension not do not max it out. I once had strap come unhooked due to suspension compressing while hauling load off paved road so now I prefer a hook with clasp on the trailer end.
Don’t ever use your wench you can easily strip the gears
Do you recommend keeping the machine in gear, park, or neutral when towing it on a trailer? I could see how park or in gear could help keep it stable, but I also worry about possibly damaging the drivetrain under hard acceleration or braking. Thoughts?
PlanetCat I always park mine in 1st gear. (Mines a standard transmission though.)
NEVER put the gear on ANY vehicle manual or automatic. The vehicle must only have the handbrake (park break) on and follow the securing method to the transporter properly. If the vehicle is secured properly then it should NOT move, hence no need for the transmission, furthermore the transmission is not a braking mechanism for transport. NEVER DO THAT!!!!!!
@@truckeralvarez5932 if its tied down correctly having it in park will not affect anything plus in the event that straps did come loose id rather my machine stay put and not roll in either direction...
I have mine tied down by the wheels and leave it in N because the parking brakes aren’t super strong.
Good Straps are worth there weight in gold. I bought a side by side and have to pick it up tomorrow. I always like to tie down to the lower carriage so the upper carriage is loose to move. I like your set up. Good job. I subscribed, I know you have lots of subs but It might help is some small way. Take care...
Putting a half twist in the strap prevents the strap from clattering and flapping in the wind which will help to keep the straps from beating themselves up. Also if you look at the 4:49 mark at the start your bumper is actually working on cutting your strap.
Yes, this guy is a complete idiot!
Look up shock straps guys. U will be amazed
I was hauling my Yamaha Rhino with four ratcheting straps hooked up pretty much the same as shown in the video. I was going along about 50 mph when I suddenly saw the street I wanted to turn on was upon me already. I needed to slow rapidly to make the turn. (not a tire screeching stop.. just rapid slowing). Suddenly the Rhino slammed into the tail-gate of the truck having jumped right off the trailer! It landed bridging the gap between truck tailgate and trailer. It was jammed in there real good too with no way to get it back onto the trailer without equipment. I looked at the straps.. no damage at all. I had ratcheted all the straps to the point of partial compression of the suspension too. I was wondering how the heck those hooks could have come off of the frame in the back. The only way possible is if the straps had slackened enough to let the hooks drop down below the trailer frame edges they were hooked to. Maybe from hitting a dip and having the suspension compress even more? Now I don't trust the ratcheting straps at all and I've got a nice big dent in my vintage 1978 Ford F250 tailgate and a ruined trailer jack post! I'm going to switch to wheel straps of some kind now. Those ratcheting strap hooks need latches on them at least. Don't trust those open hooks ya'all.
Transmission in Neutral, Emergency brake off......does not allow any movement or wear of internal parts, all transfer of movement energy is at your four connection points you illustrated....just the way I do it...... thanks for your vids, great points, and different machines.
I always avoid any points that compress suspension. I always use the wheel nets or go through the wheels.
Good straps. Are the ones with the rubber on them will never ever move. The expansion. Rubber always. It to bouce around and keep tight at all time. Brand new. Invention...
Great video, exactly what I needed to see. Question about the topper. Kawasaki recommends NOT having the windshield or topper on the vehicle while traveling on an open trailer. Have you see any issues with this? What is your opinion? Remove before traveling?
Thank you
E-track with straps over each wheel
Should alway use the x for tying Dow your machine
You say to make sure there are no twists in the strap, that's wrong, a twist will stop it from moving and vibrating in the wind which isn't good, if there is a twist it will sit there motionless regardless how fast you are pulling it.
I have chocks for the front wheels to cradle the tires plus I winch the center of the side X side down to an eye bolt attached to the trailer frame (channel iron). I strap down the back wheels (Cabela's system) and believe me it is solid. Took me a year trying different methods but I finally figured it out..
And your winch LOVES you for that!.......NOT!
Wheel straps. Don't attach to anything above the suspension because it moves up and down and will come loose
What about straping down the front of ur roof i was told by dealer to due s9 or they could fly off
Good video
The same. But, cross the straps so that they make an X. Front left trailer goes to front right SXS . It's actually better yet to use one strap to do that. Then the second strap goes trailer, loop around the bumper then down to other side. That way if either strap breaks, the other one still holds it. Same at the rear. Always like to loop something because it totally prevents side to side movement. DOT calls for 2 straps but definitely better to use 4. BTW there is a motorcycle specific strap that has no second end. They work great in trailers with tie downs.
Sports
I’m my automotive class our instructor always told us to attach to unsprung weight. Looks like that works good for that machine.
Correct, never bind a suspension rigid. It needs to work as it's designed to, on a trailer or on the trail/ or road
I like to use the the x, front to rear, rear to front style. I find that if I use rear to rear, front to front style, the suspension tends to detach my strap hooks. But the way you do it, you should loop your strap at least once around the bumper and over lap the strap so the atv cant walk sideways.
Easy. 8 point tire straps. There is no better option.
I prefer to use the Erickson E track system, and I use them on all four wheels, even though they ( Erickson) recommend only two. Then I use one ratchet strap pulling slightly to the rear as a safety because you never know when there may be a need to brake quickly. ( It's no fun to have your ATV end up on the rear of your towing vehicle, is it ?)
I do same thing with mine. My machine ain't moving.
No, no, no, no, NOOOOOOO! NEVER strap to the frame hoping the compression of the shocks will hold it in place! Alway strap the wheels ONLY and the UTV will take care of itself.
I have a trailer horror story. I had too small of a trailer for my rzr 4 800 when I purchased it out of state. When I put it on the trailer the rzr was longer than I thought and the back wheel was just barely fit on the trailer. Because of having too much weight in the back this made my trailer violently fish tail if I went past 50 mph. The fishtailing caused my rzr to bounce around and shake off about 3 of the 6 straps I had attaching it. I pulled over and fished the straps through the wheel rim trying not to damage the break pads etc and this worked way better. Anyways from Ohio to Tennessee I had to go 45 mile per hour on the interstate. I'm really not sure how I made it. So the moral of the story is don't use a 6 x 10 trailer for a rzr four seater. And tie the wheels down. I'm going to have to look into the wheel baskets that sounds really nice. And I'm going to look into getting straps that aren't just hooks. I'm going to get some straps that have like D ring style connector. And the most important thing is to get the correct trailer. Please learn from my stupidity.
It probably would not have fished around if you backed it on the trailer and put more engine weight on the tongue of the trailer (if your circumstance allowed it to be backed on).
@@erikdiers4636 Yeah it would have at least helped.
Length of chain w/hook welded on back of trailer. Pull ATV/UTV on and hook chain to hitch saftey chain location, and pull forward until suspension is under load. 3 links of chain welded to frontend of UTV, and use the down points on trailer , or weld a short piece of chain to front of trailer, short enough to use a chain binder to compress front suspension. You are loaded and ready to go in under a minute. With friends it's even faster. Put long shank padlock around chain binder handle for a little security from possible theives, but more to keep binder locked down.
Mac's tire straps
Smith mfg makes a excellent front tow hook for your 2014 plus RZR 1000 900 & GENERAL There on eBay I've got one one all my RZRs. There awesome .... 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I always go through my wheels. Takes the suspension bounce out of the equation.
I like that idea. Do you mean one long strap through the wheel spokes ratcheted down to the trailer?
@@josephm40 yes. Run one strap thru the fronts pulling forward and down and one thru the rears pulling back and down. Haven't lost one yet even driving like a bat outta hell!!!
That’s works great as long as your wheel design allows it. 👍🏼👍🏼
just my opinion, but completely disagree, this is unnecessary stress on springs, suspension. it is best to strap the tires down. doesnt matter if the vehicle flexes, the wheels are meant to carry the vehicle n thus the wheels can be situated n strapped. strapping the tires down also will make it soft enough for the vehicle
WELL DAMAGING THE SUSPENSION IS A CROOK .When the unit is shipped from manufacture the suspension is compressed to save room.
This is without the wheels on it the frames are flat to the floor
if you have a cross over type SUV, could that be enough at minimum tow the trailer with your UTV?
Tire straps eh??
Forget "machine". Any sprung object needs to be strapped down by it's non sprung components. In the case of vehicles, that would be the tires. The reason being that every time you hit a bump, you wack your tie straps, and if it's a big enough bump, your strap hooks detach. Not to mention how much better a trailer rides with the vehicle's weight sprung separately. Much less trailer bounce and weaving. I say this having hauled about 100 or so cars and trucks on a three car trailer behind a dually. With that setup, it makes all the difference in the world..
Need to pull up farther on the trailer!
I don't have one but. It's funny my Dad will throw a heavy duty ratchet strap through the drivers compartment of his Polarisb and ratchet it down. Of coarse it doesn't have doors and the strap is holding down by the floor board
I want to give you more of a challenge try and strap down an ATV in the back of a Chevy Avalanche good luck the ATV fills the entire bed of the truck so there is no way to get to the strapping points so you have to put your straps on beforehand and no matter what i do i am always rubbing on plastic or the metal taking the finish off
Look at our Strap Caddie it will help you protect the metal and the plastic. Let us know if you order because we like getting feedback on our product. theStrapCaddie.com
"This corner is not sharp at all" while the strap is frayed exactly at that corner.
lmao.
Being a flatbed trucker...that was my immediate concern. I'd be tossing that strap out.
Can am ships their buggies with the shocks fully compressed for week/months
No they don't,..the shocks are not fully installed, that is done during PDI. However they did used to ship them with deflated tires,..and THAT sure screwed up the tires because the rubber took a 'set' and I for one, could never get the bump bump bump out of them.
Nowadays they ship them with tires inflated up to as much as 30 PSI to avoid this problem.
czcams.com/video/UWl4k3_6Rmg/video.html you can clearly see them cutting the straps holding the suspension compressed and that the tires have no air.
@@regsparkes6507 lol you got treated
Well, jruss and Eric Puddephatt, here in Canada where we are, I have a close buddy who is a mechanic at a CanAm dealership and he has to PDI these and I am here to tell you I have seen these come out of their shipping crates with tires fully inflated as I stated and shocks have to be partially installed,...the lower bolts on the front shocks are NOT fastened, but the top bolts are.
I guess some are shipped as you show, others are as I said. So this is a no contest comment I guess!
but the debate was if squatting out your suspension for transportation is good or bad....I said it cant be bad as Can-am on "some" models, ship their buggies that way, ....
As am engineer, i will tell you that your advice is completely wrong. Tie down the tires. Thats it. Let the suspension flex. Otherwise, the straps get beat up due to the suspension movement. Also, the trailer now has to absorb all of the movement on rough roads and the weight of the load hammering against the straps. That is harder on the trailer. Bad advice. Look how cars are restrained on car haulers.
Very good video,but it should be mentioned that your 1 front strap is frayed and should be discarded. also you should always look at how your mounting points are attached I actually had a tie down in the floor of my toy hauler pull out (because they used self tapping screws for 2500lbs rating) causing damage to my back gate first trip out,never take for granted manufactures are smart!
If I would tie a machine down I would go totally overkill with it I would cover the machine in till you can't see it any more
NUMBER #1 RULE... SET THE BRAKES AND PUT IN PARK.