Fixing Major Dents in Cars & Trucks - Where do you Pull First?
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2021
- Explains how to fix/repair major dents in cars or trucks. Focuses on where you should pull first, in what order and why. Tools and Materials are listed below.
Stud Welder: www.harborfreight.com/stud-we...
MIG welded sheet metal: .030" or 22 gauge welded with Miller Millermatic 90, 110v, .023" wire
Frame Machine: www.autobodytoolmart.com/prod...
Body Hammer: Martin Tools 153G Cross Chisel Hammer
Pulling Clamp: www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-93...
Tightening/dp/B00U1QS5CI/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&gclid=
Multiple Stud Pulling Vise Grips: Steck Manufacturing SS20085 - Steck EZ Pull Pliers
Pogo/Hustler Stick Alignment Bar and Chain: Keysco Hustler Stick - 77175
Torch: www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS...
Sander/Grinder/Polisher: www.harborfreight.com/automot...
36 Grit Fiber Resin Disc for Grinder: benchmarkabrasives.com/collec...
Work Boots: rockroosterfootwear.com/colle...
/ lakesideautobody - Auta a dopravní prostředky
That's Old School there Buddy!! It don't get any better than that!! Well done!!☺
Thanks for the support as always RK - looking forward to you riding the scooter :)
Ur an amazing dude. Not only for ur talent, but for ur willingness to share knowledge. We appreciate u.
Thanks for the support and kind words. I appreciate you watching the videos my friend. Have a good weekend :)
The way I was taught is to reverse engineer each dent. For body panels you are doing inner panels at the same time. Good work. It relaxes the sheet metal.
You are right always go in reverse order.
the amount of skill and patience required to do this is admirable. good work!
Thanks for watching my friend - enjoy the rest of the week :)
This is currently my favourite youtube channel for autobody repair knowledge... Thank you for your in depth videos. 👍 🇮🇪☘️
Thanks 👍 Jayfbee - I appreciate the support - thanks for watching :)
"Master Manipulator of Metal", both in the music and autobody worlds!!! Great video Jerry!
your camera work and patience is so spot on! Thanks for showing us
You're welcome 67 - glad you enjoy the content and the way the videos are made. Great to hear :)
Only the Best make it look easy , and you make it look easy !
I appreciate that John - have a good weekend my friend :)
I have a certain dent to work on , on my '71 Plymouth Fury. Someone at sometime back into something, making the rear bumper push in the bottom part of the driver's side quarter panel extension. This cracked a spot on the pot metal and ever so slightly buckled the corner where the looong quarter panel meets up with the back taillight panel. Watching how you pulled out the door jamb gave me an idea exactly how to fix the problem spot. Pull out and have tension where the panel is pushed in while tapping the high spot on the adjacent corner. Kind of hard to explain but i have it all in my head lol
Thanks for the vid!
Anyone who owns a '71 Fury should star in a movie driving it :) Those things are tough as nails - real mean looking. Glad the video could help you out :)
Beautiful work and teaching. I always come back here whenever it’s school holiday
Thanks for the support my friend - have a good weekend :)
...a GENERAL rule of thumb i was taught is to start with the last damage which occurred....
...sort of 'reverse the collision' type of deal....
Just like downtown , nicely done.
Not many out there with your skills I can vouch for that from experience
You, my brother are a Master. Thank You for your posts. Top Shelf!
Thanks Andy - I appreciate that. You are very welcome - have a good weekend :)
👍🏻Thanks for demonstration!!! I’m sure today’s cars are a little harder to straighten with the thinner metal. That puller is a must have!!!
Not that bad on the price either. Thanks for the comment Michael - have a good weekend :)
Great job Jerry, always good to see a professional at work sharing your knowledge, thanks for sharing 👍🏻
You're welcome V8 - thanks for the support and comments all the time :)
That straightened out, nicely, Jerry! A good tip on removing the oil canning, too.
Now, to work on the deer!👍
I'm actually scared to drive past 7 pm up north here in Michigan. Since we moved here 5 years ago we've hit 3 deer and nicked the hind leg of a 4th. They bolt out of the side of the road/woods and run as hard as they can right at your headlights. Then you veer and they hit the side of the car head on. Crazy :)
@@LakesideAutobody Clearly the dumbest animals in the world. Big problem in Pennsylvania and rural New York as well. Basically keep all the rural bodyshops in business.
@@satamanschmidt3428 Even squirrels with a much smaller head/brain :) are smarter. I can't believe it! They run right at your car full blast - nuts :)
Really enjoy your videos, they have helped me working on my 2001 f-150. Great talent here.
Thanks John - feel free to ask ?s as you go - I get to them 1-2 times a day :)
Very helpful from a beginner standpoint. Just smashed the door jamb on my sprinter and need to pull the dent. Answered a lot of questions. ☆☆☆☆☆
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. You do a great job explaining your process. I have enjoyed a number of your videos as I am getting back into autobody work as a hobby and I want to learn how to minimize bondo use. Working on a 1984 Porsche 944. Thanks.
You're welcome Andrew :)
Great video brother,keep up the good work!
Thanks GN - like your style of videos BTW :)
Good seeing work like this being done. Seems every thing these days is cut out & replace the whole panel. I was at a shop couple years ago only thing pullers were for was pulling the wreaked part during cutting & even that was rare.
I've hear that stated a few times from comments. Thanks for the input Frank - always good to hear from you :)
Amazing process. Love watching these. Nice oil canning trick
Thanks for the support PSG - love to hear from you :)
Outstanding video, great teacher, thanks for sharing the knowledge!
You're welcome Darian - glad you liked it :)
Masterful job there sir. That was interesting to watch.
Much appreciated Ken - enjoy the rest of the week my friend :)
Good to see you put some thought into accessing those hot spots.
Sometimes you can pull the door striker and use that too. Just make sure it's out before there's trouble :)
Great video on what panal of the body to pull first learnt something new thank you Jerry and have nice weekend stay safe
Thanks 👍 You have a good weekend to and enjoy the 1st week of the NFL if you watch :)
This has been a great refresher. Thank you so much!
You're welcome Andrew - I appreciate the support :)
Wow that's excellent body work. You make it look so easy 👍
Thanks again Vicshone B.
Great metal work.
Wow you make it look so easy. Great videos.
Thanks JR - thanks for watching :)
Great Video... I can tell you have done this a Couple of Times Before. Thanks for Sharing
Glad you enjoyed it David - you're welcome and thanks for the support :)
Nice work. 👍
Great work! Looks like new metal !
Thanks Curtis - nice to hear from you as always :)
amazing, great job
Great information great to see a panel rebuilds loved the video thanks for your talent
You're welcome Buck - thanks for watching :)
Very good
I worked in a body shop in my early 20s, as a fill in, when the carpentry business would get slow. I,ve since redone quite a few cars in my own garage. My favorite part, and my talent was pulling mangled stuff on the frame machine ,I just had a feel for it. On the metal shrinking , oil canning, I used to use a water soaked rag to shrink it, instead of the air. It was a little more aggressive and quicker. I could bring a gap back into compliance most of the time with that technique. It's amazing how much you can bring back a stretched piece of metal. You are definitely old school, the same way I learned, I started working on body work in the mid 80s. I didn't take it up as a trade because the dust drives me crazy but I loved the metal working part of it.
Thanks for the comment/story Marcel - that's when I started too - 1984. The heat of the shop in the summer and the dust is not good but it's not boring for sure. The people I worked with were always regular guys with w/ a great sense of humor too - good times :)
Wow that's amazing! You are a master of your craft! Thanks for sharing....ALOHA!
You must be from Hawaii - Aloha to you too :) Thanks my friend - have a good week and you're welcome.
That was a awesome job thanks for that video
You're welcome Courtney - nice hearing from you all the time :)
Nice job really appreciate it personally thanks for teaching us
You're very welcome Carlos - have a good weekend :)
Man what a BEAST!!!
😊🛠👍✌
Great job like always
I appreciate that - have a good week :)
A master at work
Thanks for the support Shiznit - enjoy the rest of the week :)
If i get a bigger workspace someday, that frame tool would be a good thing to try to master. Think for now i'll start with a stud welder, tho. I know i can put that to use. Good concise video as usual👍
You can always use a tree and a come-along or another heavy object like another car or truck to anchor to.
Thanks for the lesson.
You're welcome Tim - have a good week :)
Very nice work Jerry. Most cars are considered totaled by the insurance companies with similar damage.
Thanks my friend. They probably would have replaced the quarter or totaled it like you say. That's a six cylinder mustang so it's not that valuable - might have been a total loss :)
I just had to resub. Don't know how it deleted you from my channel list. Love your channel..
Thanks Wallys AB - glad you like the channel :)
Thanks for all the tips Jerry, I did a crease on a 1/4 panel the other day, made a pdr tool from all thread put it in the tailight hole and got it better then filled/ primed/blocked 🦯🕳
Very cool - so you made a dent pick sort of tool? Thanks for the story - love to hear them :)
I was going to stud pull it but I said let me try something more efficient, I was scared of a crown problem as a novice but you inspired me, basically a piece of 3/8 all thread, I formed a J in a vise, and the hole was perfect location, I was very cautious. 🤘🏻
@@PnwOnTour Nice job Gmguy - let me know how the rest of the project goes.
Nice video..!!
Thanks Roy - have a good weekend :)
Another great masterpiece 👍🏼 love this channel learning alot now to buy some junkyard car so i can start practicing haha 😂.
Let me know when you start and send some pics to the email under the "About" tab. Would love to see the progress :)
Interesting stuff🤠👍
Thanks 👍
Good Job
Thanks Chuck :)
Nice job. Great work. You should get decent frame machine and start repairing heavily crashed cars for big profits. cheers. 🍻
Used to have a nice one where I worked but retired now - thanks for the support Petar and have a good weekend my friend - always good to see your comments :)
Great VIDJA’s. Always top advise , & strategy takes a lot of planning to recover some damage like that ❤️🏴☠️🎥💯%🇺🇸👍🏻
I appreciate the support Bonnie - have a good weekend :)
Amazing!
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
brilliant, oh yeh
Nice work Jerry! At about 8:30 in the video it looks like you're using a puller that slips over and clamps to the studs. Is it a homemade tool, maybe the end off a studwelder slide hammer, or something you bought? Thanks and have a great weekend sir!
It actually came with the stud welder from Harbor Freight - The kit came with a slide hammer and this little guy screwed on to the end of it to pull the studs with. I unscrewed it and use it now the way you see it in the video - sometimes use it with the slide hammer too though :)
Thanks
You're welcome :)
Also makes the outer body panel easier to fix.
you are amazing
I appreciate the support Dan - thanks :)
Excellent video. I've only one comment. You might consider using a shrinking tip on a stud gun rather than the propane torch. Less chance of burning the place down which is never a good day.
Good tip Sataman - never burned anything down but there's always a first :)
Have you ever tried any PDR, the new collision glue is incredible.
I haven't but I'll check it out - would make for some good videos. Thanks for the input Timmy :)
How do u anchor your hydraulic puller with car on lift? I have similar lift and a puller with pinch weld clamps.
The frame puller butts up against the ramp on the side you are pulling from. I just use a large c clamp on the other side to keep that end from moving around side to side. There's a 2x4 between the puller and the ramp to protect the ramp a bit. I'll put that in the next video when doing a side pull for you. Hope that makes sense a little - If not ask again :)
Wiggle wire woulda made this an even faster repair very nice end result
Thanks Robert. Have a good weekend :)
When you do a side pull with the frame machine,how does the machine anchor to the car?
Or do you just use the 4 post hoist as the machine anchor?
In my case, I am integrating the 4 post - chaining the car to the ramps and using the ramps to butt the frame machine up but here's some instructions you can check out for a bunch of different types of pulls with this machine. s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.autobodytoolmart.com/downloads/tech-sheets/BodyStraightener.pdf
@@LakesideAutobody thank-you very much for your reply
Hi Jerry, I recently picked up a 96 ram 2500 cab which is in very good shape (no rust, etc) however the truck was totaled due to striking an immovable object with the left front wheel. That in turn caused the frame to cave in and up into the floor and firewall of the drivers side. The drivers door will close however at the top right it is appox 1-2" from closing. I believe that the door frame even though it doesn't look damaged got sucked in as the floor pan and firewall was crushing in. Would you please look at a few pics if I send them to you and give me an idea on this project? I've done minor repairs to bodies but none to this extent. I guess I would have to copy pics and send them to an email if ok by you. Be blessed and have a Happy Thanksgiving. lee
Sure. You can send them to schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Happy Thanksgiving to you to my friend :)
No catch blanket on the pulling machine, walking behind it with tension on it, reaching over and under the chain with tension on it, holding on to the chain with tension on it, hammer on hammer. This dude gets shit done and does a good job but holy hell the amount of safety precautions getting told to screw off is wild... LOL production shop that wouldve been a 20+ hour job in case anyone is wondering
Hey Josh, thanks for the comment. The only time chains will come back sort of hard is when you are pulling frames. The chain has to be extremely tight to spring back. Really, I've seen only one incident that could be dangerous, My boss was pulling a door post and the "Kansas Jack" type frame pulling post sprung back from the car after the clamp came loose, fell over backwards (not real fast) and broke the side glass on the car next to it..... Glad it wasn't me - I wouldn't have heard the end of it :)
@LakesideAutobody we get a ton of our pulling tabs getting ripped off. Seems like we need to throw a couple more welds on our tabs or something. Looks like you had 0 problems!
Man, the deer was going 75!?! lol....same thing happened to my GF. Deer ran into the side of the van they were in.
Those deer aren't too smart. Even birds, with a tiny little brain, know to fly out of the way when a car approaches :)
Did the light tap with the pick on the oil canning tighten the metal up some, or was there a high spot? You certainly removed that canning though! Thanks
It's the same as putting a cloth over a glass and pushing it in with your finger tip. It's "sucking the metal in" or using up metal so that it tightens it up. Check out this video for a good explanation - start 6 minutes in - czcams.com/video/KgvuTZdqCRA/video.html
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry, sure to appreciate you willing to help share your vast experience with everyone.
@@lschneider6109 You're very welcome - thanks for the support and comments :)
Nice work Jerry !! That one has potential for more vids, hint hint 😉😁 Thanks bud 🙂
I appreciate it PAS - It does have the potential for some interesting filler work. You're welcome and have a good weekend my friend :)
When you making more videos
How many hours did you bill out for straightening ?
For pulling 2 hours. 3-4 for filler work.
I did not realise that deer can run at 75mph! That was reckless
Hi. Where can I get that red frame puller?
For some reason they are hard to find right now but here's a common one - Jackco 852B 10ton Body Straightener - Swivel Type/Hand Pump
@@LakesideAutobody thanks
10:23 What is this red bar/pulling tool called?
That's a KEYSCO TOOLS
Hustler Stick also called a pogo stick or alignment bar.
What’s the name of this machine that pull out dents
Here's one that's similar - they don't make this exact one anymore but there are many like it - it's a dozer type frame straightener - www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/10-ton-body-straightener-kits/auto-body-frame-straightening-equipment
What do I do if I don't have one of those automatic Dent pullers I'm a do-it-yourself person with no fancy tools
My dad would park the tractor next to the dent for an anchor and use a come along - works just the same - www.harborfreight.com/1200-lb-capacity-cable-puller-30131.html?_br_psugg_q=come+along or park your car next to a tree :)
Looks as all must gone from here
Hey SuperGlide hope everything is going well for you - have a good weekend :)
Intro music way too loud. Bring it down to match your vocal volume.
Sounds good - I'll remember that - thanks :)
@@LakesideAutobody other than that, great connect as always!
Looks like a deer hit a pony.
Ha! Good one :)
Fooking Deer.
First!!!!
Great work. Thanks for the vid
You're welcome Headbangrr - have a great week :)
First you pull out your wallet..
Hit by a deer doing 75 mph no wonder deer are so dangerous 😂
I was in the passenger seat and the deer ran as hard as it could right into the side of the car going 75 mph. That's what they do - I think they are thinking they can beat you across the road :)