WHAT HAPPENED TO MY BMW E36 M3?
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
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Fuel pump and fuel filter! I've purchased e36's, e39's in the past with very similar issues and replacing those two components along with vaccuum leaks would solve it for me! Fuel filter should be replaced at 150k and the fuel pump typically begins to fail at 250-300k in my experiences.
Rent or buy a fuel pressure regulator and test fuel rail pressure when you crank the engine. Its a pretty straightforward test to see if you're getting the right pressure.
That or the idle control valve needs to be replaced
Hezron Lum second this!
Can confirm, I had an issue with this before in starting in the cold. But once the car heated up, there was enough pressure in gas tank to roll the car because the tank itself got warmer due to its location in regards to the exhaust.
I second this as well. I had similar issues and it was also the fuel pump
Why would it make it rich. The filter should lean it out not make it rich.
I was just commenting the same. On my e60 I had to replace my fule pump and sending unit. My filter got a Crack over time and I smelled gas for the longest. Also had a weird flutter under throttle. I bet if he parks on a hill he might see gas dripping from the back if its like how mine was set up.
Fuel delivery should affect both banks equal, and yours differ. Air leaks should decrease stft on higher rpms, as you mentioned, and it's not your case.
I would suggest timing issues, may be a sensor, or bad injectors. Has to be multiple injectors since you have issues on both banks. I don't know how the ICV works once the engine is warmed, but your problem persists although you can tell that much.
Alright man we need an update video. This stuff intrigues the hell out of me.. bring it!
Check fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors, and fuel pressure, fuel pump. Likely a fueling issue.
Hi. Try to check fuel pressure on fuel rail. When you pop up the hood, there is a little cover screwed in front of the fuel rail. Unscrew that by hand and you will see a little valve - looks like the one on tire - and do a fuel pressure test. On amazon is a kit for like 30 bucks. You need the kit with adaptor for this valve and - important! - a T fittimgs. When you check that fuel pressure and it will be off, don´t imediatelly buy new fuel pressure regulator, but du a test of fuel pressure before fuel rail - directly from fuel pump - this is time rot T fitting on gauge. You can test it in front of fuel filter or uder back seat dirrectly from hoses that runs from fuel pump. Hope you figure it out :) Nice car that is driven how it should be :)
Those are horrible numbers, you def need a fuel pressure test and a diagnostic at a euro shop
Same deal here in AUSTRALIA... changed ccv cam sensor o2 sensor coils plugs filters.... starts okay runs okay but when it warms up then it carries on like yours..... love the car 420K km but don't love the problems in the last 12 months.... had the car from new and no probs for 19 years until recently.....
NEW INFO.... NEW COIL CYLINDER 2 FAULTY.....#$^&%$#
Everything is sorted.... going like a rocket....
Injectors produced similar problems for me in my 28i recently. They were cleaned and now it's fine. Or at least the engine. Unfortunately my car got wrecked by a Q7. All the drifting, the track days, the laps around Nordschleife this year, and then a Q7 crashes me at like 30kph out of nowhere. Restoration in progress for next summer... :(
But at least it gave me a chance to finally start building the thing. The M52 motor is out, a custom-built M50 is coming in instead.
Good luck solving this problem mate. Annoying things like this are... Annoying. But then when it works fine, it's always very good to have it back.
Good luck on the restoration man! Wrecks suck!
check ccv, tps sensor, double check vacuum lines, injectors, fuel purge valve etc. I used to get those codes all the time. replaced everything just like you've done, and it ended up being o2 sensors, which unfortunately was the last thing on my list. Have a mechanic plug in a more detailed scanner. Good luck!
try replacing the maf, if nothing changes when you unplug it, maf is broken or maf wiring, and also the idle control valve being stuck would introduce the wrong amount of air into the engine. BUUT the easiest thing to change when getting lean codes is to change the fuel filter and check the fuel pump, my e46 got weird issues like you and when I changed the fuel filter it got better. When I poured out the fuel from the filter it was almost black :D
I changed the fuel filter and nothing changed... From what I understand, when you unplug the maf the car goes into a default that should make it run better if the maf was the issue. I have pretty much replaced the maf twice, so I am hoping it isn't that!
@@TreatsOnTheStreets
It is true, but you can't be sure..it should be some difference when you unplug/plug maf. Also if you don't run BOSCH one, you could easily have problems, but again can't be sure because you have different tune. Maybe start with your tuner for advice.
Also these cars have problem with coils, don't think you mentioned you tried that..try unplug one by one, and if one of them shows no difference in engine running, you have a bad coil on that cylinder
My e36 mass airflow gate was sticking causing a similar problem. Have you checked that?
Had the same issue for months. Replaced everything you replaced, even injectors. Turns out it as was my fuel filter.
Cam position sensor, ignition coil, coil pack harness connector
What about the connector?
Its ok start that's not camshaft position senzor...
@@Krunoslav09 That would be the crankshaft position sensor.
At this point I would just let the shop diagnose and fix it. These cars are usually pretty cheap and easy to fix, but sometimes it's worth paying a little to avoid the annoyance of hunting down the issue.
This could be due to clogged/low efficiently catalytic converters. The fact that when the car is warm the response gets better is a hint. I owned an e46 with below efficiency catalytic converters and it can cause massive power loss when clogged. Try putting spacers on your pre-cat O2 sensors and see if your fuel trims change any it could hint at the problem. The spacers are only a few dollars so if this turns out to not be the issue you haven't spent a fortune replacing the catalytic converters yet.
If from there you find no issues I would recommend proceeding to the fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and fuel injectors.
Happy Birthday dude!
Good to see another vid with your M3! Even though its been a little troublesome... I was just rear ended in mine and hit someone in front of me because of it. Most likely it will be totalled :(( It was the same color, year, and around 77k mi. So it was really good seeing and hearing yours today. EVERYONE HERE THAT HAS ONE OF THESE.... MAKE SURE YOU TREASURE IT!! You never know what will happen....
That's crazy! Very hard to replace a car like that. Hope all is ok!
@@TreatsOnTheStreets I have a little soreness still in my lower right back, shoulder and neck but im ok. But the M3... The right wheel was hanging off and the back tail light area was smashed in... It was so hard to look at... Well, im thinking Im gunna get some money so im thinking of putting a supercharger on my E60 and throwing some mtech bumpers on it. Wont be any where near as fun as the M3 but it will have to do.. Thanks for the reply!!
Treats On The Streets Actually Gavin I was wondering if you might be able to help me out? I have a few pieces that I never got to install and I was wondering if maybe you or anyone else on here might want them. I have a Porsche 911 3.5” HFM, 3.5” HFM Wiring harness, AFE Euro Cold Air Intake (oiled cotton filter, heat shield, HFM adapter, and intake tube), 24lb fuel injectors, M50 manifold adapter kit, Slightly used M50 manifold, and Schrick performance camshafts (264/256 degree). I would be willing to sell them for a 20% discount. Most of it is brand new never installed. CAI has maybe 500 miles on it. M50 manifold was bought used. I also have a $500 pioneer fold out touchscreen radio! If you don’t want or need anything I would greatly appreciate any help trying to get rid of them. Maybe it could be a thing on your channel? 🤷♂️ LOL I know that’s asking for a lot but I honestly don’t expect that. I’m grateful that you reply to any of our messages already. I’m just desperate... and very sad... I would be willing to give you a certain percentage of the items sold as well! Any help would be great Gavin thanks! I know you are probably busy so no worries if you don’t even reply to this lol.
Just bought my first e36, 92 325is original paint jet black, definitely the most fun I had in car so far
Nice man!
@@TreatsOnTheStreets almost forgot to mention we got the same m3 rims
There is an idle control valve gasket at the bottom of the intake manifold. When mine was seated-ish, but not completely seated my car behaved like this. Try unplugging the MAF and see if it fixes your mixtures and idles smoothly. Don't run it too much like that, but for troubleshooting it's OK. If it runs smooth w/o the MAF plugged in, you need to reseal the stuff that plugs into your intake manifold. Some of it's at the bottom and is hard to get to.
CHANGE YOUR FUEL FILTER BUDDY.
It's the idle control valve. Had a few customers with the same issue. It's a common issue. I replaced mine as well.
I'll have to look into that
You are so awesome love your E36 content and how to's can't stop watching please keep uploading !!!
Hey treats!!!! Long time E36 lover here. Saw your update vid and hate to hear your cars giving you problems. I have spare ICVs, stock 21# pink injectors, a VANOS housing and solenoid... plenty of spare parts that were in fine working order for you to swap and troubleshoot with. I’m willing to send it all your way free of charge, just say the word... If none of these things change the running condition, I would look into a Cam Position sensor, and definitely check fuel pressure properly at the Schrader valve to evaluate the fuel pump.. Looking to help another e36 lover out.... ps, don’t sell it and buy a Supra lmao...
You're awesome man! I have something I need to try, but if it doesn't work out I will let you know 👍
I actually had a similar stumbling issue recently and it didn't throw an error code to work with, you might want to check coil boots as well. Mine had a very small rip in one and replacing it fixed the problem right away! Best of luck to you man
Thanks for the tip! When I changed the spark plugs I inspected the boots and luckily they were ok.
I have a 99 328i and I was having similar issues. No one here has mentioned that that the ground wire below the DME might come loose over time. It was causing similar problems so it's worth taking a look. Good luck!
Where exactly is the ground wire you are talking about? I'll have to look into it!
I had same exact issues and did exactly what you did. Never found the problem. The one thing I never changed was my fuel filter...
I'll let you all know when I get it resolved 👌
I like starting with the simpler things first.
1. refresh all the ground connections starting from battery. Take off cables, clean with fine sandpaper. Check and refresh the big ground from chassis to motor upfront. Refresh all ground connections in the engine bay that you can see. This is unlikely but odd things happen with bad grounds.
2. Check the CCV for vacuum leaks. It has a fair number of hoses. Check all. If you used a M50 intake, then I believe you would have had to modify your CCV where it plugs into the intake. Check that connection. I think there is a vacuum spec for the CCV measured at the oil fill cap with slack tube manometer at idle. If the vacuum is not within spec, your CCV is bad. I cannot find my information sheet. If found I will write back.
None of the above requires $$. At some point (soon), get professional help before spending more money.
3. You may have made too many modifications?? Consider going backwards to the original state.
Check your idle control valve, the flap gets stuck sometimes and makes the car idle bad.
In my experience the ICV produces a surging idle that goes up and down at idle.
My boyfriend owns a 2008 335xi coupe and he does all his work. He learns as he goes too. I’m forwarding video to him to see what he says because we had similar issues with his car recently but it was mainly spark plugs and o2 sensors. Not sure if it was anything else.
Thanks!
Crank or camshaft sensor?
the fuel filter needs replaced, I can pretty much guarantee it will dump black fuel out. You can use a cheap tire pressure gauge to measure fuel pressure. I gave up on making my gas engine good, I'm going to swap it with an M57 diesel paired with a 6-speed manual diesel trans.
This M3 super clean!
But I'm more a fan off the sedan. Been owing my m3 3.2 6speed for almost 15years. Having also problems, with idle and Pull's like crap. Busy going aftermarket ecu , throttle body etc...
Francois from South-Africa.
Cool! Let me know how it goes for you
Don't know much about cars and still learning. But I drive my e60 hard. Recently my fule pump had a Crack I kept having a rough idle and sometimes smelled slight gas and a similar fluttering on low rpm during light to mid throttle. Was an easy fix but anything fule related is sketchy to me cause i rember seeing a trailer sending sparks down the high way prior i couldve caught fire and i thank God it didnt sent one into my car. I realized gas was under my back carpet and it was leaking from under my car as well but hey now I know a new skill at least.
I’m in the same boat. My best guess so far is ICV like many are saying. Keep us posted!
Also check for a exhaust leak ahead of o2 sensors that could give a false code. Oxygen in exhaust before o2 makes it think it's to lean and will make the car rich and toss a lean error code.
I would replace the fuel filter if you haven’t already, it will help rule out lack of fuel
I did, good suggestion!
First check Cam position sensor...
I never have these weird problems with my OBD1.
My 328is smells super rich too but I don't have a check engine light but my car did not pass emissions test so I hope you can find a way to fix it
Same kind of problem, changed MAF and strange things happened, no shop could fix it. They were telling me 02, vacuum, fuel system...I said enough chasing a rabbit and throwing money at a gremlin. Bought my own scan tool than went back to where it started and R2 the MAF again, it was like night and day fixed it.
I agree looks like a fuel delivery issue based on your numbers. Pump, filter, regulator... check fuel pressure to rule it out.
Idk but it feels to me like a fuel injector problem. Idk tho but that’s the first thought that came to mind
Based on the better running with warm I'm inclined to say the ICV needs to be cleaned.
Was thinking this too
Fuel pressure could be the issue, unless the power seems to still be present under moderate to heavy throttle. My real suspicion is a ground fault on the o2 sensors or ECU. By ground fault I mean resistance on the ground circuit that could be giving the computer a slightly bogus reading. Simply put, check ALL the electrical grounds on the car for corrosion or damage. It’s likely a 25 cent fix.
Hi Gavin, I realize I'm commenting too much here, but intrigued by this problem. I looked at your video again. The fuel trims seem to indicate fuel delivery problem. One shot showed a different bank 1 and bank 2 STFT but all the other shots I saw they were essentially the same. From your observation, are they pretty the same both 1 and 2? The next step would be a fuel pressure measurement. I saw the Schrader value on the front of your fuel rail. How about a measurement before and after a fuel filter change? Unless you have already done a fuel filter. Wear goggles! Read the Bentley on how to do this.
Thanks for the input! I actually have changed the fuel filter. About to upgrade to 24# injectors and try a tune from someone other than RK. Hasn't run right since I changed to RK from Dinan.
Change your fuel filter and fuel injectors. My exhaust and start up sounded the exact same. Hope it helps
Thanks man! You were on the right track. Check my latest video where I talk about what went on.
Most likely it's a vacuum leak. Try checking the hose for the ccv that goes down to the oil dipstick. The smallest crack or blockage in that hose causes issues like that.
What up Gavin! Love the content man 💪 always awesome! Sad to see your baby is down brother. I have a 98 with almost identical mods to yours. Anyways, I recently had this issue after I left my oil cap off after an oil change. It caused a massive crank case leak and I drove it prolly 30 miles as it got progressively worse. I poped the hood and Bam my oil cap was just chilling right next to the full hole didn't budge for 30 miles somehow. I chased that damn problem just like you for prolly a month. Car ran fine except the occasional rough idle. Even power was good. Finally took it to my go to shop here in STL "Bimmers r us" and they fixed numerous things(loose intake(barely..) and a small crack in my intake boot(replaced that) picked it up code was gone car ran fine except the occasional little idle stumble and then I kept getting the same freakin codes.. did extensive googling and apparently it's a major problem for a lot of E46 cars and E36 cars alike not to mention e92 etc.. took it back to Greg and said holy shit man this is driving me insane finally replaced the MAF again and reset adaptations boom good to go. It's kind of a crapshoot I would take it to a shop and see what they think manI would honestly take it to the shop that did your intake manifold swap for youand say I don't know guys everything is running perfect and now this.. lol
Love how the sunroof is painted over
i have a feeling its a slightly blown head gasket , head warping is a common issue with bmws that everyone tries to ignore but it happens .....alot , either that or one of the valves are not seating correctly adding more air than needed
ive also seen cracked heads as well ,
Smoke test it, it sounds like a vacuum leak. Could be any number of dry rotted rubber hoses or bungs on your intake manifold side. Only way to find out is to smoke test it and determine where that leak is coming from.
Stab in the dark, but it has automatic choke ~ check that.(also include the idle control (cant remember if its a sensor or a valve)) Also check fuel filter and fuel pump on the by and by. If none of those, check Vanos and Crankcase hose ventilation. EDIT: Just asked someone who excellent on these , he said check injectors are clean.
Thanks!
The car tune might did all of those issues, just try to put back the factory program and cross the fingers 🤞🏻
Smoke the intake system. If there are no external leaks, I would replace the crankcase vent valve. Ruptured internal membrane of the ccv would cause mixture faults.
Recently my f10 started having rough idle like your e36 but i am getting egr and manifold codes. Bought mine 3 years ago and drive it like you do everytime i am behind the wheel but at the end its worth it
Ecu colant temp sensor for 99% , the blue one.
It needs to run perfect at pedal to the metal, ecu coolant, crank and cam sensor + throttle postion sensor.
look into the fuel pressure regulator
Fuel gas cap( just a random thing. I had a weird minimum sputter at idle occasionally. I just had an extra cap, threw it on. Its gone since 2 weeks ago.....)
I say check for leaky injectors or bad pressure regulator.
Nooooo don't take it the shop we wanna see the solution. FPR maybe? Fuel injectors? It's weird the trims are different like that. Also noticed the car is not in a storage shed, congrats on that. It almost sounds like your dropping a cylinder when it's under load.
check the ICV hose that goes to the intake boot. They crack and will allow the engine to run lean.
This seems like a noisy ground problem. Since it's only fuel system related items I'd check the ecm grounds. I know you Installed that dual ground for your upgrade I would check that for ground issues. Corrosion can get worse over time and that would be why the code might not show up at first.
What dual ground are you talking about?
M50 manifold where you would normally bridge them. I would just double check that for resistance values.
Also I memory serves me right there was a hard vacuumed line to the fuel pressure regulator on some don't know if its y-ed in with 2 other items still or not. I am sure you did it right just hope no oil or some crap got in there and is screaming you up. Bc smoke will not show a clogged line.
Had a similar issue a few months ago my e36. Same symtoms but cant recall the codes or fuel trims. Had found my issue kinda quickly so wasnt needed & it was the hose that went to the icv from the maf.
Considering since you checked for leaks i agree with the stuck icv also. Had that issue on my e46, when its bad enough it throughs that model into limp none the less will give same symtoms
Try checking the fuel injectors, fuel filter, air filter, camshaft position sensor, clean the throttle body.
Sounds like an ICV to me. Usually you can just clean them and get away with it spray carb cleaner into it and make sure when you twist the thing agressively you can hear the door opening and closing
I'm in love with this car I own one 1999 model e36
I’ve been having same codes p1188 p1189 on my 98 m3 for about 4 months. I replaced everything that could be possibly related but the cel kept coming up. A few weeks ago I reset my values from my schwaben diagnostics scanner and I haven’t seen the codes since. I put a little over 600 mi so far but I’m crossing my fingers it’ll stay that way. Hopefully it’ll work for as well
I hope you figure out the m3 problems, ours is having issues with the throttle getting stuck, the usual german car stuff lol, did you ever considered putting the dtm spliter on the front of the car and OEM spoiler for your e36
Re-lube or replace the injector O-rings. I ran into the same symptoms when I swapped in my 24lb injectors and stupidly, forgot to lubricate the port side o-rings. Felt like I was driving an extremely underpowered Subaru until I fixed it lol. Good Luck!
Were you just getting an air leak through the o rings?
@@TreatsOnTheStreets Surprisingly, yes. I was running extremely lean, misfiring to all hell, sounded like a 4 cylinder, same symptoms as you. I took out injectors, literally lubricated the dry O-rings and I had a perfectly running s52 when I reinstalled the injectors. Crazy, I know but I'll put money on that being the issue with your car.
@@kirchhoff1814 I don't think I have any air leaks though since I did a smoke test. Did you try that at all?
@@TreatsOnTheStreets Yes, I've tried a smoke test for a valve cover gasket leak on my M3 (unrelated issue), that's about the only time I've used my smoke machine. The smoke machine is accurate for obvious leaks, but minor disproportions in seals that leak while under intense vacuum, I'm not so sure. Based on what you've explained in this video & the fault codes given, you've pretty much narrowed down the issue to fuel or the ICV. Just check those damn injector seals, it takes 30ish minutes!
sorry but i dont know what causes the problem, i have kindoff the same problem with my e30. ive been said it could be false air or something with the fuel. but im curious for your outcome, so i can look at that with my car
I am sorry to say it. But walk your way backwards. Start removing the latest upgrade. But it sounds like it needs a good tune. Good luck. I want to see it ripping the streets.
Thanks man! I think that's a good call.
When you change the spark plugs you also have to adjust the spark plug gap.
Petr Stepanov they are pre gapped
I feel your pain man, I have a 99' e46 with a m52tu 2.9L... bolt ons lol. Its been running smooth since I built it but recently I've been experiencing the same issues. lean codes and cylinder misfires. Until the car started making crackling noises from the intake side and wont hold idle anymore. Had to take it into a specialty shop to find out what gives :(. Hopefully we'll find the issues with our cars. GL
Shoot! Let me know what you find out
@@TreatsOnTheStreets will do
i would for sure try injectors, cleaning the ICV, and change the fuel filter out
can you explain ICV please
idle control valve
Injectors?
Gavin, Are you still stuck? I read in your response to a comment below that you tried a couple of BMW shops who could not help. You mentioned you lived in Utah. I'm in Boise and use Hurless Brothers for work I cannot do. Brett Hurless is one of the consultants listed in the back of Roundel magazine. He should be able to help you, but be prepared for negative comments about your modifications. How much wrenching do you do? Did you do the intake manifold swap? This would require modifications to the idle control hoses and the M52 uses a crankcase ventilation valve which the M50 does not. I'm thinking your answer lies there somewhere, but I'm really just a bit-more-than-novice DIYer. By the way, do you have the s52/m52 intake manifold and whatever brackets, parts that go with it?
I think the problem with those was I need a shop that works more on and is versed in modified BMW's. I am about to try something to check again but haven't had the chance to do it yet. The manifold is all installed correctly with no leaks and I used a conversion kit. Still have the s52 manifold but reused most the hardware.
What scanner screen is that?
It is called an Ultragauge
my mums e46 325i was doing this. its an auto, and it was idling so low it kept stalling out. it only lasted like a day and then it went back to normal have you tried changing the fuel filter? on the e46 theres like a vent tube that connects to it that had come off and we put that on and it made it better
Dude i just recently had this issue i changed every component of fuel system on top of IAC, MAP, MAF,, finally i found it was my EGR valve, CHANGE THE EGR VALVE!
Had the same codes after I changed clutch. Drove around for a while and problem went away. I was going to change o2 but didn’t have to. I will change it thought that’s always good
Its a false lean. The o2s are not reading right. Check your Cats if you have them. Could even be an exhaust leak pre cat. Looking forward to receiving my t shirt haha thanks
This same thing happened on my E36 M3 and no mechanic was able to figure it out. I then was talking to a Carrera owner and he told me about solving this problem on his car. He was running with the highest octane he could find and then on a trip he needed fuel and the only station he could find only had 87 and 89 octane. He put the 89 in and before he finished the tank the check engine went out. I did the same and it worked for me too but now after a year I have put 91 in and the light doesn't come on!! Go figure!!
Check your vanos seal. Variable compression thats out of wack will cause lean/rich conditions, lumpy idle, power loss, and causes inconsitent throttle response. Seems like you have all the symptoms, how did the 200 other people that are commenting not even think about that? Vanos failure can happen anywhere between 30k and 100k miles and your at 70 so that shows you got some decent life out of it
I am also an e36 lover, have owned 7 different e36's and cuttently have an 95 m3 and a 95 325is. Just trying to help the best I can hate to see you spend thousands on an easy fix
It totally is possible. I just haven't checked it because I had my vanos rebuilt with teflon seals and such about 5k miles ago. Doesn't mean it is working correctly, just that I would hope it would last longer than that haha.
I think you have one sylinder Off, from other bank. Piston ring or something, sounds like Volvo. Maybe still not big problem, still going strong...
Like your bmw! And videos 👍
Hi,
false interpreting fule trims is normally related to reading maf, tps and o2 sensors. These you could easily check with a multimeter
Maf should be givving like 0.5v at idle and close to 4.5v at full throttle and high rpm
Tps should have 0.5 at no gas and 4.5 at WOT
O2s - im not sure about the US m3, but euro e36es have 2 types of o2. Ones have 0v for lean and 1v for rich. Others have 5v for lean and 0v for rich. I guess different tunes might expect different sensors, so you might have the wrong sensor for your tune. As a easy way to check, you could unplug the O2s and reset fuel trims. This should let the engine run in openloop and not get fooled by false reading of the o2. If you have an improvemet, you would have your culprit.
Something else that could be causing a rich condition is fuel delivery. If your fuel pressure regulator is cracked or stuck, it could provide the wrong pressure or let extra fuel to be sucked in the intake.
A rip could be easily checked. You simply have to disconnect the vacuum hose to the regulator. If it has fuel in it, the diafragm is ripped. You can also suck the vacuum like. If it tastes like fuel, the diafragm is ripped. A blocked fuel return line could also increase fuel pressure. You can disconnect the return fuel line and blow into it. It should be freeflowing.
It's also a good idea to check fuel pressure and fuel delivery.
Pressure should be around 3.5 bar and fuel delivery like 2 liters per minute.
It could also be a stuck tank ventilation valve. You can easily check it. Beneath the intake boot there is a black canister and a valve with an electric plug. There is a hose comming from this valve that goes into the throttle body. Disconnect the hose and block it towards the engine.
I guess I've given a lot of things to check, but you can check most of them with a multimeter in like 20 minutes :)
I hope i've helped and i hope you manage to fix the car.
cheers :)
One more thing, an exhaust leak before the o2 sensor could trigger similar behavior. You might have a leacky exhaust manifold gasket ot a cracked header, or a leaky/worn secondary air injectio system. I saw in the video that you've checked, but it wouldn't heart putting a blanking plate or some type of blockoff on the pipe to the exhaust manifold.
I would say maybe a fuel pressure sensor but I’m not sure if the e36 have them but if so I would look at that
It's messed up because im having the same problem right now same codes and smells the same, while also having the same tune as you, if i cant find out what it is im thinking the tune needs to be checked too... its not the parts because i replaced everything too about to do spark plugs just in case. I'm getting 6-8 mpg while thats horrible i used to be at 14-16 mpg. i also now have a solenoid fuel running lossage code and replaced that and its still there. I will let you know asap
What injectors do you have?
I had a similar problem recently with my buddy. Fixed and changed everything, even if it was new already. Never fixed it. Then, decided to do compression test. Had 30psi in one cylinder. Bummer. Now we’re gonna be taking the motor apart to see inside soon. Good luck!
That's awful! Luckily I know I have good compression or I might be worried! Good luck with the motor
Wait, so where's the part where you fixed it or figured it out? I checked your newest videos and didn't see any update, just that you were already driving the car again
Look a second time. I had that video accidentally listed as private but now it is good to go.
I had that exact problem with my e36 and it was one of the spark plug coils
Bmw is a money pit when you replace parts that didnt need replacements. I have e90 and e46. Never had major issues
Fuel filter and pump for sure
Has your custom tune gone corrupted? Have you tried reflashing your chip?... Also have you looked at/cleaned out/ replaced the Isle Stabilizer Valve?
Both things I will have to look in to!
Thank you for driving your car like you stole it. It’s a machine not a dust collector.
I would try fuel pressure sensor. Failing that fuel pump, filter and reg.
Swap back to factory tune and MAF, see if it goes away. Cheers.
Fuel pressure? Check Regulator or pump/pumps
Have you tried putting the ecu back to stock tune?
Are the links in the description the exact products you bought for your car or simply ones like them? Thanks 👍
Most are exact some aren't
fuel issue. ICV would cause an idle surge. too easy...
Cam positions sensor ? Maybe
What is the obd2 reader he has and is using??
??
Man that’s a sweet e36