Alternator & Serpentine Belt Remove Install Replace 2012 Fiat 500 Pop 1.4L North American Non-Turbo
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- čas přidán 7. 04. 2021
- REINSTALLATION was pretty similar to the removal, except that I found it easier to fasten the alternator top bolt while reaching down from above the engine (through existing gaps, nothing removed or moved). There was a second (tiny) gap through which I could see the fresh uncorroded metal of the new alternator and I realized that was exactly where the top bolt goes. I could even (barely) see the bolt itself, which was a huge help in finding it's way into the hole. I used masking tape to hold the bolt into the socket and looking through that gap made it not too difficult to locate. It's possible that if you know what to look for (which is substantially harder when there's no contrast between the uncorroded/clean and dirty corroded parts) this could be easier for removal as well.
TORQUE SPECS
"Generator Mounting Bolts": 18 ft. lbs.
"RH engine mount isolator": 44 ft. lbs.
Serpentine Belt Tensioner: 19 ft. lbs.
Alternator Removed - sticker info:
DENSO C758 08212/2
Made in Italy
MS1012101650 68070539AA
ALTERNATOR-A115IW 14V-105A
Alternator Replacement PN: 56029582AB
Serpentine Belt Removed - info printed on belt:
68081717AB
51057C
MITSUBOSHI
5PK1145
Serpentine Belt Replacement PN: GATES K050450
Multiair Actuator Oil Supply Filter PN: 68189847AA
0:00 Intro
1:00 Prelim Items
1:45 Serpentine Belt
2:50 Alternator Bolts Removal
7:00 Alternator Out of Engine Bay
9:10 Other Items to Replace - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for sharing. My daughter just paid $1200 at the Fiat service center to get her alternator replaced on her 2012 Fiat 500. If you can do it by yourself, you can save a lot of money!
When you work on your car you save money, know the job's done right, no damage from careless employees, learn all sorts of things, become more self-reliant, stay active/get a workout, become more familiar with your car which could save you in a breakdown, become a more educated consumer which makes you more likely to choose wisely when purchasing your next vehicle, you can brag about it to your friends, the list goes on my friend. I spent about $300 on this project. Shame on your daughter, give her a spank for me.
Hey.. thanks so much, I used your video twice on my wife’s car since the alternator I bought was defective, after 6 months it took a shit… thanks!!!!!
Glad it helped. Such a bummer to have to do the job twice in 6 months.
You honestly saved me hours on this car. You were 100% right. Top bolt is an absolute S.O.B. and that is being polite. Thank you!
Always good to be polite, brother. Glad to have helped.
Thank you very much. Upper engine mount and jack were perfect solution!
Very good.
Thanks for posting, great detailed information for the home mechanic.
Great video, just took mine off. Two extra tips: 1 if you don’t want to pull the entire inner fender just take out the screws on the bumper side and open the light access cover and you can flex the inner fender enough to get the last screw on the belt cover and fish it out. 2 after breaking the 2 bottom bolts loose support engine and remove motor mount and lower engine down to the cross support. From under the lower control arm you can put one hand up from underneath with the socket and one hand from the side to guide it to the bolt head and hold it there till you can get a ratchet on it. I you a deep well socket and a small extension.
Thank you for your help I just finished this job following your method and it helped a lot, but that one bolt on the top of the alternator was a real beeetch
Glad to have helped, Johnny.
Thank you for the video. I saved $700 by doing my own and using your video.
Excellent mate. Satisfied viewers generally send me half of their savings.
@@kemberwelly1752 checks in the mail. 😀
Excellent Video !..
The idler spring is very strong so it's worth linking two wrenches for added leverage. The force needed isn't huge but doing this cuts the risk of it slipping and you bashing your hands.
I got my top bolt out with 3/8 ratchet to break the threads loose and a 1/4 socket to wind it out as that gave a more useful stroke on the handle. It's clearly designed for the factory without any thought for repairs. I think a non-wobbly socket extension is best.
Putting it back, I could not get a useful final torque so used a pry bar to lever on the ratchet handle. Obviously taking care to not over-do it. There was no way to get a torque wrench on the job.
Some say that removing the engine mount and shifting the engine forwards is helpful. It's easy enough to do so why not? (jack under sump of course).
I did remove the engine mount and was able to lift and/or push the engine forward to help slip the alternator past the axle (once all alt bolts were removed), however, I don't remember if I removed the engine mount before unbolting the old alternator... Doing that would almost definitely have been helpful in giving some more room for removing the top bolt. There's a pretty good chance the engine mount was still removed when I installed the new alternator and that may have helped, don't remember.
Not sure if you saw my update in the vid description, but for fastening the top bolt on the new alt, I found it easier to access from above the engine.
Really really helpful! I need to change my belt tensioner and access is impossible but you have helped me a lot 👌❤️ super cute pup too!!!
Excellent. Glad to have helped.
I didn't replace the tensioner but I seriously considered doing it just preventatively. Were there any additional steps you needed to do beyond what's in this video, or was that enough access to remove it?
@@kemberwelly1752I serious doubt it bro. I had plenty of room... bottom mount help me cause my hands are big. Book said 1.9hrs. I was able to do in a hour. I really appreciate
@@Liquidsteel3 Excellent.
Good video my friend
Thank you thank you thank you, I am doing this exact job at the small independent shop I work for. I have the alternator all disconnected and unbolted but having a hell of a time getting it out of the engine bay. I tried swinging the engine forward but not enough room, I will try unbolting the top engine mount and lifting it.
That should do it mate. It was helpful to very carefully push the engine forward a bit while it's unbolted & jacked if the gap still isn't wide enough.
@@kemberwelly1752 It worked like a charm. Had the alternator out and tested before my boss even showed up.
@@p.c.windhamparanormalroman4339 Tell him I said it's time to go ahead and give you that raise.
such a cuuuute dog! ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Have you ever been to Zug Island?
i live around it but you cant go in its all fenced up by the military
Loved the "questionable men" comment and later hear you make a less than manly sound when you jabbed your thumb a little lol. Great video and nicely detailed overall.
No man is above question.
@@kemberwelly1752 lol, and vice versa
@@msdarwin04 I disagree, some questions are above man.
Amazing you did this out on that rocky driveway. I was hoping this video would demonstrate the serpentine accessory belt removal & reinstallation. I have a failed bearing for the AC compressor I'm replacing. Local Chrysler Dodge Dealership doesn't service Fiats, well maybe fluid changes & filters. Which makes them about worthless really. I mean what do they do when someone shows up with a Dodge Dart with the 1.4L turbo version, which is nothing more than an Abarth engine package.
Question I have is how hard it was to get the accessory belt tensioner to pull down & about how far was necessary ?
Anyway, closest dealership that will do this type of work is 30 miles South. They wanted $ 1K for the compressor alone. One can get the part online as a remanufactured AC compressor for $ 155 on 2022. As much as $ 259 for a brand new one. I don't mind paying for what problems I have with the car, I have a problem when those employed by FICA flat out say "no" to servicing a Fiat. Bought this car in Miami, FL, where there are a few Fiat Studios there in Miami-Dade & tri county area. I relocated to Flagler county, between Jacksonville, & Daytona Beach, where the Chrysler dealerships will take Fiat 500's. Orlando & Jacksonville are too far to drive it. Daytona might leave me stranded too if that belt burns off, if/when the AC bearing ultimately seizes. Good thing the water pump is part of the Drive/Timing belt as separate from the Alternator, AC Compressor & Crank shaft accessory belt.
'Question I have is how hard it was to get the accessory belt tensioner to pull down'
The belt tensioner is not difficult to pull down, I believe I did it with a regular box end wrench. I had less than 1 foot of leverage and going from memory I'd guess approximately 15-20 lbs of pressure on that lever.
'about how far was necessary?'
From memory I would say between 1 & 2 inches. Probably closer to 1".
I just pushed the exhaust to the side a little bit, just undo the clamp next to the sump and tap it out. Then the alternator comes down like any other...its the 1.3 diesel multijet
This video documents the Gasoline/Petrol 1.4L Non-Turbo North American model only.
Thank you for the video
Yes, brother.
Question did the noise was from the alternator?
Question I have a similar noise but the alternator is producing 14.v DC and 20 milv ac.
In your car
Do you think the noise was caused by the bering in the alternator?
@@thayrax1 Yes the noise on my car was from the alternator. If you check my other video you can hear the noise: czcams.com/video/au6kpSEsteg/video.html
@@kemberwelly1752 thank you so much
I'm getting everything water pump tensioner alternator belts
You really explained
Really thank you
More videos please 🙏
Thank you, Kemberwelly for the very informative video on one of the more irritating FIAT 500 issues (God knows there are too many to list here). That being said, Dude, anyone driving something that ain't 4, 5, or 6 on the floor or 3 on the tree are "the ladies" you need to be talking to. Real cars don't shift gears by themselves, period.
This is a standard 5 speed manual. Happy New Year.
Disconnect flex pipe, roll restrictor and push motor forward, lots of room to access the belt and bolts, no need to remove axle as per the service manual.
I did top engine mount and lower. Jack engine up. Came out easy. I'm at a shop though
Are these cars hard to work on? Seems tight, not sure if you have to take thing apart to get to certain areas. Also do you need weird hexes and such?
I've owned this car for around 100,000 miles and have done all the work and maintenance myself. I'm not super familiar with how hard or easy it is to work on other cars so it's hard to answer. I do have frustrating difficulties and problems from time to time but I always seem to find a way to make it work. Yes there are tight spaces and sometimes things need to be removed to gain access. Most jobs don't require special tools, some suspension and axle components have inverted torx bolts but the sockets are around $25 for a made in USA set. I can't really think of any other special tools I've needed.
Every part that needs to be removed you have to remove at least three parts prior😂
Like a rubix cube/ gremlin car
you are a funny guy, thanks for the upload, about to do this job
I just installed the new alternator today. Let me know if you have any hiccups, I might be able to help. Reinstallation was pretty similar to the removal, except that I found it easier to fasten the alternator top bolt while reaching down from above the engine (through existing gaps, nothing removed or moved). There was a tiny gap through which I could see the fresh uncorroded metal of the new alternator and I realized that was exactly where the bolt entered and I could even barely see the bolt itself, which was a huge help in finding it's way into the hole. That made it not too difficult.
@@kemberwelly1752 i havent even bought one yet, so it will be a bit. Did you get an oem part or did you get a refurbished or used one?
@@mrpoopybutt I bought a Mopar brand (part#: 56029582AB) advertised as "new" condition from eBay for $285.89 (seller is "original_auto_parts_xpress_2", looks like he still has some, I have no relation to this seller, nor do I get kickbacks or anything silly). The part is manufactured by DENSO. When it arrived I noticed it looked exactly like some parts advertised as 'remanufactured' on eBay which were half the price. I contacted DENSO and from what they told me it looks like I did likely get a legitimate OEM part in new condition. It's such a pain to replace the alternator that I was willing to pay for quality, and I decided OEM was the best bet. The car is back together and seems to have more power than before, I'm wondering if I had weak spark as the alternator was dying slowly.
@@kemberwelly1752 i think i might still go for a refurbished one, the price point is much better and this seems to happen more than it should on these cars so it could need another eventually
@@mrpoopybutt It's hard to analyze the risk of choosing new or remanufactured or OEM or aftermarket... but saving $100 is a sure thing so I get it. Out of curiosity, how did yours fail? Total failure? Whining sound? Weak charging? Other?
Is it necessary to have the time tool to lock the timing in place?
It sounds like you're asking a question related to changing the timing belt. I have no experience with this (yet) and the above video is about replacing the serpentine belt. These are two different belts.
@@kemberwelly1752 you are correct. Thank you.
@@kemberwelly1752 that answers my question
Looks easy on yours but I have no tension or I just have a single
I don't understand your comment.
Bruv love a Fiat don't car what no one says 🤣🤣🤣 just not a 500 pop
Pop is the best 500 mate.
Nothing wrong with a 500. Good wee car.
Good video but mabey shouldn't chew gum whilst doing a video its a bit irritating
You're an absolute legend mate. Your trilogy with Gatti will be watched for decades to come.