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Kemberwelly
Registrace 8. 04. 2021
MultiAir Filter Actuator Oil Supply Replace Remove Install 2012 Fiat 500 Pop 1 4L North American
In retrospect, I highly suspect there is usually no need to change this filter for multiple reasons:
1) I have never seen any recommendation from the manufacturer to regularly replace this and I trust the team of engineers' opinion who designed the engine a lot more than people with unknown experience on the internet (especially when the people on the internet are selling the filters).
2) After 85k miles my filter showed no signs of trapped debris. I suspect the filter could trap a decent bit of debris before the oil flow is restricted enough to cause an issue, and if there's no signs of build up after 85k miles, the entire life of the vehicle is probably not long enough to change that.
3) Out of the handful of other owners I've seen who write about their Multi-Air filter, I believe all of them found no debris, same as me.
Still, $20 and a bit of work is a fairly small price to pay to just change the thing, but I wouldn't loose sleep over skipping this.
MultiAir Filter Mopar Part#: 68189847AA
0:00 Intro
0:21 Support Engine w/Jack
0:32 Remove Coolant Reservoir
0:39 Engine Mount Bolts-A
0:56 Jack Engine
1:13 Engine Mount Bolts-B
1:46 Timing Belt Cover
3:00 Engine Mount Bolts-C
3:21 MultiAir Filter
1) I have never seen any recommendation from the manufacturer to regularly replace this and I trust the team of engineers' opinion who designed the engine a lot more than people with unknown experience on the internet (especially when the people on the internet are selling the filters).
2) After 85k miles my filter showed no signs of trapped debris. I suspect the filter could trap a decent bit of debris before the oil flow is restricted enough to cause an issue, and if there's no signs of build up after 85k miles, the entire life of the vehicle is probably not long enough to change that.
3) Out of the handful of other owners I've seen who write about their Multi-Air filter, I believe all of them found no debris, same as me.
Still, $20 and a bit of work is a fairly small price to pay to just change the thing, but I wouldn't loose sleep over skipping this.
MultiAir Filter Mopar Part#: 68189847AA
0:00 Intro
0:21 Support Engine w/Jack
0:32 Remove Coolant Reservoir
0:39 Engine Mount Bolts-A
0:56 Jack Engine
1:13 Engine Mount Bolts-B
1:46 Timing Belt Cover
3:00 Engine Mount Bolts-C
3:21 MultiAir Filter
zhlédnutí: 9 008
Video
Alternator Whine Engine Sound 2012 Fiat 500 Pop 1.4L North American Non Turbo Motor Noise Belt
zhlédnutí 2,6KPřed 3 lety
The alternator failed testing with a voltmeter on the car, was removed, and was taken to a local shop at which a wise old man confirmed it was broken. Alternator Removal Video: czcams.com/video/OHfAS-W-7VE/video.html
Alternator & Serpentine Belt Remove Install Replace 2012 Fiat 500 Pop 1.4L North American Non-Turbo
zhlédnutí 28KPřed 3 lety
REINSTALLATION was pretty similar to the removal, except that I found it easier to fasten the alternator top bolt while reaching down from above the engine (through existing gaps, nothing removed or moved). There was a second (tiny) gap through which I could see the fresh uncorroded metal of the new alternator and I realized that was exactly where the top bolt goes. I could even (barely) see th...
I wonder if this part is in the new hurricane 3.0 6 cylinder.
I can't find the answer. The Hurricane 3.0L i6 does have VVT, and I believe it's hydraulically actuated so it's possible there's a similar filter.
Thank you for torque specifications!
Just happened to find your videos. Owner of 2012 pop and I'd like to commend you Sir!! Very well made, descriptive and articulated... this actually made my day at work, while waiting on the clock. 😅 If ever their is a category for the best videos on fiat 500, YOU Sir should be nominated and Win 🏆 👏 👏 👏 In all, thank you!!! For these, will Hope that you decided to more on these vehicles. Again, thank you Sir!
Thank you for the video. I saved $700 by doing my own and using your video.
Excellent mate. Satisfied viewers generally send me half of their savings.
@@kemberwelly1752 checks in the mail. 😀
Is it necessary to have the time tool to lock the timing in place?
2yrs later.....Thanks for the video! Decided to try and clean(or replace) the MultiAir Filter on my 500. Im having trouble with compression after oil changes. How in the bloody heck did you remove those lower 3 bolts from the Chrysler engine mount? Think I got the engine jacked up as high as it will go, but I cant get to those three freakin bolts. 😒
Good video but mabey shouldn't chew gum whilst doing a video its a bit irritating
You're an absolute legend mate. Your trilogy with Gatti will be watched for decades to come.
Great video, just took mine off. Two extra tips: 1 if you don’t want to pull the entire inner fender just take out the screws on the bumper side and open the light access cover and you can flex the inner fender enough to get the last screw on the belt cover and fish it out. 2 after breaking the 2 bottom bolts loose support engine and remove motor mount and lower engine down to the cross support. From under the lower control arm you can put one hand up from underneath with the socket and one hand from the side to guide it to the bolt head and hold it there till you can get a ratchet on it. I you a deep well socket and a small extension.
Excellent Video !..
Loved the "questionable men" comment and later hear you make a less than manly sound when you jabbed your thumb a little lol. Great video and nicely detailed overall.
No man is above question.
@@kemberwelly1752 lol, and vice versa
@@msdarwin04 I disagree, some questions are above man.
Thank you very much. Upper engine mount and jack were perfect solution!
Very good.
Looks easy on yours but I have no tension or I just have a single
I just pushed the exhaust to the side a little bit, just undo the clamp next to the sump and tap it out. Then the alternator comes down like any other...its the 1.3 diesel multijet
Hey.. thanks so much, I used your video twice on my wife’s car since the alternator I bought was defective, after 6 months it took a shit… thanks!!!!!
Glad it helped. Such a bummer to have to do the job twice in 6 months.
Amazing you did this out on that rocky driveway. I was hoping this video would demonstrate the serpentine accessory belt removal & reinstallation. I have a failed bearing for the AC compressor I'm replacing. Local Chrysler Dodge Dealership doesn't service Fiats, well maybe fluid changes & filters. Which makes them about worthless really. I mean what do they do when someone shows up with a Dodge Dart with the 1.4L turbo version, which is nothing more than an Abarth engine package. Question I have is how hard it was to get the accessory belt tensioner to pull down & about how far was necessary ? Anyway, closest dealership that will do this type of work is 30 miles South. They wanted $ 1K for the compressor alone. One can get the part online as a remanufactured AC compressor for $ 155 on 2022. As much as $ 259 for a brand new one. I don't mind paying for what problems I have with the car, I have a problem when those employed by FICA flat out say "no" to servicing a Fiat. Bought this car in Miami, FL, where there are a few Fiat Studios there in Miami-Dade & tri county area. I relocated to Flagler county, between Jacksonville, & Daytona Beach, where the Chrysler dealerships will take Fiat 500's. Orlando & Jacksonville are too far to drive it. Daytona might leave me stranded too if that belt burns off, if/when the AC bearing ultimately seizes. Good thing the water pump is part of the Drive/Timing belt as separate from the Alternator, AC Compressor & Crank shaft accessory belt.
'Question I have is how hard it was to get the accessory belt tensioner to pull down' The belt tensioner is not difficult to pull down, I believe I did it with a regular box end wrench. I had less than 1 foot of leverage and going from memory I'd guess approximately 15-20 lbs of pressure on that lever. 'about how far was necessary?' From memory I would say between 1 & 2 inches. Probably closer to 1".
You honestly saved me hours on this car. You were 100% right. Top bolt is an absolute S.O.B. and that is being polite. Thank you!
Always good to be polite, brother. Glad to have helped.
Are these cars hard to work on? Seems tight, not sure if you have to take thing apart to get to certain areas. Also do you need weird hexes and such?
Thank you for the video
Yes, brother.
Question did the noise was from the alternator?
Question I have a similar noise but the alternator is producing 14.v DC and 20 milv ac. In your car Do you think the noise was caused by the bering in the alternator?
@@thayrax1 Yes the noise on my car was from the alternator. If you check my other video you can hear the noise: czcams.com/video/au6kpSEsteg/video.html
@@kemberwelly1752 thank you so much I'm getting everything water pump tensioner alternator belts You really explained Really thank you More videos please 🙏
What does this mean? Need a new belt or what?
Thank you for your help I just finished this job following your method and it helped a lot, but that one bolt on the top of the alternator was a real beeetch
Glad to have helped, Johnny.
Hi sir, i got exactly the same car with same problem but when i took off all 6 bolts from the peace are under the motor mount (top motor mount) that peace is tight like if it's part of the engine block so i put everything back and didn't do the filter replacement, so my question is how do i take apart this piece after 6 bolts are removed? Thanks a lot for your answer.
Good video my friend
Good video, fiat recommends to replace it every 60,000. I started having issues with my MulitAir at 103,000. replaced the filter and it is doing fine, it did have a-lot of crap in it. Now, it is a turbo 500L. I think the turbos need a regular change given the oil gets very heated by the turbo. I think you are correct about the none turbos not needing this filter changed out that often if at all.
I haven't seen any info from Fiat that recommended a Multi-Air filter change for the naturally aspirated engines at any interval, my filter looked clean upon removal. I think that if the filter were loaded and needed to be changed but you didn't change it you could cause serious damage to the MultiAir VVT so your 60k interval (im assuming miles) might be wise for turbos. Also worth noting, I use full synthetic oil and I change often (at like 4k miles), and generally take it quite easy on the engine while driving. I'm not sure if there's any difference in 500 vs 500L with regards to this info, and it's always wise to get your recommendations from the engineers who designed the engine rather than some joker like me on the internet.
Disconnect flex pipe, roll restrictor and push motor forward, lots of room to access the belt and bolts, no need to remove axle as per the service manual.
Thank you, Kemberwelly for the very informative video on one of the more irritating FIAT 500 issues (God knows there are too many to list here). That being said, Dude, anyone driving something that ain't 4, 5, or 6 on the floor or 3 on the tree are "the ladies" you need to be talking to. Real cars don't shift gears by themselves, period.
This is a standard 5 speed manual. Happy New Year.
Thank you thank you thank you, I am doing this exact job at the small independent shop I work for. I have the alternator all disconnected and unbolted but having a hell of a time getting it out of the engine bay. I tried swinging the engine forward but not enough room, I will try unbolting the top engine mount and lifting it.
That should do it mate. It was helpful to very carefully push the engine forward a bit while it's unbolted & jacked if the gap still isn't wide enough.
@@kemberwelly1752 It worked like a charm. Had the alternator out and tested before my boss even showed up.
@@p.c.windhamparanormalroman4339 Tell him I said it's time to go ahead and give you that raise.
Thanks for sharing. My daughter just paid $1200 at the Fiat service center to get her alternator replaced on her 2012 Fiat 500. If you can do it by yourself, you can save a lot of money!
When you work on your car you save money, know the job's done right, no damage from careless employees, learn all sorts of things, become more self-reliant, stay active/get a workout, become more familiar with your car which could save you in a breakdown, become a more educated consumer which makes you more likely to choose wisely when purchasing your next vehicle, you can brag about it to your friends, the list goes on my friend. I spent about $300 on this project. Shame on your daughter, give her a spank for me.
Bruv love a Fiat don't car what no one says 🤣🤣🤣 just not a 500 pop
Pop is the best 500 mate.
Nothing wrong with a 500. Good wee car.
Thanks for posting, great detailed information for the home mechanic.
How dirty was this actuator screen/filter and what was the mileage at which you replaced it? Much thanks for sharing!
See vid description for both answers. Cheers mate.
Sorry bud, didn't see it. Again, thanks for the detailed video.
The idler spring is very strong so it's worth linking two wrenches for added leverage. The force needed isn't huge but doing this cuts the risk of it slipping and you bashing your hands. I got my top bolt out with 3/8 ratchet to break the threads loose and a 1/4 socket to wind it out as that gave a more useful stroke on the handle. It's clearly designed for the factory without any thought for repairs. I think a non-wobbly socket extension is best. Putting it back, I could not get a useful final torque so used a pry bar to lever on the ratchet handle. Obviously taking care to not over-do it. There was no way to get a torque wrench on the job. Some say that removing the engine mount and shifting the engine forwards is helpful. It's easy enough to do so why not? (jack under sump of course).
I did remove the engine mount and was able to lift and/or push the engine forward to help slip the alternator past the axle (once all alt bolts were removed), however, I don't remember if I removed the engine mount before unbolting the old alternator... Doing that would almost definitely have been helpful in giving some more room for removing the top bolt. There's a pretty good chance the engine mount was still removed when I installed the new alternator and that may have helped, don't remember. Not sure if you saw my update in the vid description, but for fastening the top bolt on the new alt, I found it easier to access from above the engine.
Plastic tents to break. Usually companies try to save money on this kind of parts material
Are these cars reliable at all? Lol 😂
such a cuuuute dog! ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Have you ever been to Zug Island?
Really really helpful! I need to change my belt tensioner and access is impossible but you have helped me a lot 👌❤️ super cute pup too!!!
Excellent. Glad to have helped.
@@kemberwelly1752I serious doubt it bro. I had plenty of room... bottom mount help me cause my hands are big. Book said 1.9hrs. I was able to do in a hour. I really appreciate
you are a funny guy, thanks for the upload, about to do this job
I just installed the new alternator today. Let me know if you have any hiccups, I might be able to help. Reinstallation was pretty similar to the removal, except that I found it easier to fasten the alternator top bolt while reaching down from above the engine (through existing gaps, nothing removed or moved). There was a tiny gap through which I could see the fresh uncorroded metal of the new alternator and I realized that was exactly where the bolt entered and I could even barely see the bolt itself, which was a huge help in finding it's way into the hole. That made it not too difficult.
@@mrpoopybutt I bought a Mopar brand (part#: 56029582AB) advertised as "new" condition from eBay for $285.89 (seller is "original_auto_parts_xpress_2", looks like he still has some, I have no relation to this seller, nor do I get kickbacks or anything silly). The part is manufactured by DENSO. When it arrived I noticed it looked exactly like some parts advertised as 'remanufactured' on eBay which were half the price. I contacted DENSO and from what they told me it looks like I did likely get a legitimate OEM part in new condition. It's such a pain to replace the alternator that I was willing to pay for quality, and I decided OEM was the best bet. The car is back together and seems to have more power than before, I'm wondering if I had weak spark as the alternator was dying slowly.
@@kemberwelly1752 The first sign was a battery light, then the next day the electric power steering stopped working, decided to just get it tested after a battery recharge and it is late in the process of failing. i guess we will see what the problem was once i remove it