Where would I be able to get the service manuals for the actual controllers, the Daikin app only has the operating manual, which doesn’t have any information about thermistor designation or how to get into the service menus, especially on those older wall controllers.
Thx for the informative videos. Another question: The outside temp is 10 degrees and it's midday but my air-con unit is running a defrost cycle - is that normal or a fault?
There are a few reasons for defrost, one is it need one, another one is diminished capacity, it will go into defrost if it’s takes a long time to heat up and a defrost was more that a few hours ago. If it isn’t frozen up at the outdoor unit the defrost will finish quickly and start heating again. This also prevents the coil from a build up of ice forming if the unit is cycling off heating before a defrost can start and the ice doesn’t naturally melt dew to the outside temp. I have seen some brands that don’t have this cycle build up with ice to the point where it’s that thick it starts hitting the condenser fan. Kind regards Craig
Did you follow the flow chart for A3 fault from the service manual?? This repair flow chart work out if it’s the pump or the float switch or blocked drain or problem with how the drain has been installed ( pumping to high) you should be able to search service manual up on the web.
C4 is thermistor fault, you are running the unit in heating, if so the coil heats up 1st, then the fan starts to blow when the coil temp gets to 40 degrees (about that). If the thermistor is not reading correctly the fan will never come on. C4 is generated by open cct or short cct, check your thermistor against the resistance / temp chart for that model unit. test the fan in fan only operation or cooling it should come on straight away. The unit I am working on here is Daikin FDYP71, some thing may vary a bit from model to model, but C4 is open or short of the sensor.
I don’t know that model, but all Daikin’s have this as a standard fault code across all models, C4 liquid pipe thermistor open circuit or very high resistance, most probably needs replacing, this is a cheap part, 98% of the time this will fix it, if it doesn’t then it’s the indoor pc board.
Hi thats an old non inverter R22 system, probably a compressor fault, if its the compressor not worth fixing with the cost of R22 and how old it is, I would recommend replacing the system with a newer system, possibly up sizing as well as the older unit had a bit more performance than the current new systems have, but this all depends on where you liv and if it's more for heating or cooling.
@@gregday4360 turn the power off to the unit for 5min, turn the power back on, dose the fault come on as soon as the power is on ?? If so it’s the PC board, they are no longer available, if units start up, compressor runs the then fault happens a while after the compressor has ran possible gas fault, if the compressor try’s to start but then goes into fault, faulty compressor. 20 years is a good run don’t waste your money fixing this old unit, it’s past it’s end of life and most parts are no longe made. A new inverter unit will also be far cheaper to run.
Outstanding job troubleshooting that. Thanks for sharing 👍
what a champ !! thanks for sharing. subscribed
I learned something new today.
Where would I be able to get the service manuals for the actual controllers, the Daikin app only has the operating manual, which doesn’t have any information about thermistor designation or how to get into the service menus, especially on those older wall controllers.
Thx for the informative videos. Another question: The outside temp is 10 degrees and it's midday but my air-con unit is running a defrost cycle - is that normal or a fault?
There are a few reasons for defrost, one is it need one, another one is diminished capacity, it will go into defrost if it’s takes a long time to heat up and a defrost was more that a few hours ago.
If it isn’t frozen up at the outdoor unit the defrost will finish quickly and start heating again. This also prevents the coil from a build up of ice forming if the unit is cycling off heating before a defrost can start and the ice doesn’t naturally melt dew to the outside temp. I have seen some brands that don’t have this cycle build up with ice to the point where it’s that thick it starts hitting the condenser fan.
Kind regards
Craig
My air cond is daikin model byc125k-w19 error code C4
Hi mate got an a3 fault replaced pump still showing unblocked drain still showing any ideas
Did you follow the flow chart for A3 fault from the service manual?? This repair flow chart work out if it’s the pump or the float switch or blocked drain or problem with how the drain has been installed ( pumping to high) you should be able to search service manual up on the web.
Hi getting c4 fault
indoor evap fan not running suspect fan motor triggering c4 fault not thermistor
Fan coil entombed have to remove and lower coil
C4 is thermistor fault, you are running the unit in heating, if so the coil heats up 1st, then the fan starts to blow when the coil temp gets to 40 degrees (about that). If the thermistor is not reading correctly the fan will never come on. C4 is generated by open cct or short cct, check your thermistor against the resistance / temp chart for that model unit. test the fan in fan only operation or cooling it should come on straight away. The unit I am working on here is Daikin FDYP71, some thing may vary a bit from model to model, but C4 is open or short of the sensor.
Hi
Daikin floor standing ac power led blinking issue, tell me how resolve it
Have you looked at my video “How to fault find daikin unit, blinking light”
Have any solution?
I don’t know that model, but all Daikin’s have this as a standard fault code across all models, C4 liquid pipe thermistor open circuit or very high resistance, most probably needs replacing, this is a cheap part, 98% of the time this will fix it, if it doesn’t then it’s the indoor pc board.
hi i have Daikin model FDY160 with J2 code?
Hi thats an old non inverter R22 system, probably a compressor fault, if its the compressor not worth fixing with the cost of R22 and how old it is, I would recommend replacing the system with a newer system, possibly up sizing as well as the older unit had a bit more performance than the current new systems have, but this all depends on where you liv and if it's more for heating or cooling.
Thank you
Unit is 20 years old
How can I test current sensor so I can rule this out as the fault?
@@gregday4360 turn the power off to the unit for 5min, turn the power back on, dose the fault come on as soon as the power is on ?? If so it’s the PC board, they are no longer available, if units start up, compressor runs the then fault happens a while after the compressor has ran possible gas fault, if the compressor try’s to start but then goes into fault, faulty compressor. 20 years is a good run don’t waste your money fixing this old unit, it’s past it’s end of life and most parts are no longe made. A new inverter unit will also be far cheaper to run.