Most people may say this isn't necessary. But I totally understand. An ounce of preventative maintenance goes a long way from being stranded on the side of the road.
The factory service manual is actually relatively easy to find online, I saw many sites offering an inexpensive download, and I'm certain with some actual effort put in one could find it for free!
Fantastic video, It really warms my heart to see one of these "NA' Miatas bought by someone who is going the extra mile to maintain and take care of it. Most of these cars (as you mentioned in your first video) are bought by teenage idiots who do zero maintenance, drive them to death, and eventually wrap them around a tree attempting a Tokyo Drift. Any timing belt that's on the front of a longitudinally mounted engine is generally a walk in the park, one of my biggest automotive pet peeves is when manufacturers make the timing belt almost inaccessible by putting a transverse engine half an inch away from the frame rail/wheel well (looking at you, Volkswagen) and the only way to change it is to drop the entire engine/drivetrain.
So i've got a 94 classic red similar to this one, with 60k miles. The issue Is burnt rubber smell when the car squeals while driving. I take foot off the gas, squeal stops. Any suggestions or idea? New timing belt, radiator, filters and pump.
Six-of-one, half-a-dozen of the other. Belts cost less, are quieter, weigh less, and in the case of a non-interference engine, generally do no damage when they break. Timing chains aren't as infallible as one might think... when timing chains go bad, is often just as destructive if not worse, and cost a LOT more to replace. What generally fails in timing chain systems are the plastic chain guides and oil-pressurized tensioners, and depending on the vehicle, this can occur anywhere between 50,000 miles and 150,000 miles. The difference here, is a timing belt has an actual service interval, so if you maintain the belt as directed, you'll never have a problem. A timing CHAIN, on the other hand, generally has no service interval, so when they do eventually fail (and you ignore the warning signs - which can include excessive noise, or even engine lights as the camshafts and crank drift in-and-out of sync), your motor is often demolished once it lets go.
Yes, 1994 was the first year for the MAF. VAFs were a fairly short-lived idea, if I recall. I remember seeing them on old VWs equipped with Bosch Motronic fuel injection.
Good thing too, Toyotas used them for a bit too when the TCCS (Toyota Computer Control System) was in its early life. They don't meter well at idle, they're restrictive, and on Toyotas they were used to trigger the fuel pump turn on which is strange and most folks don't know that until they look at a wiring diagram so they change out the fuel pump when the VAF is the culprit. My Land Cruiser has a VAF and my Tacoma not even two years older has a MAF, you can guess which one runs more efficiently haha
Good to hear from you! I'd estimate this to be at least $800 in repairs, possibly more from a dealer. I was quoted $650 for the belt service and water pump alone... this didn't include a new valve cover gasket, and complete cooling system overhaul. What makes this job truly expensive is the "while-you're-in-there" jobs I did.
My neighbor's 99 Acura had a timing belt failure around 5 years ago (it probably wasn't ever replaced either) and the engine was completely trashed, and too expensive for them to repair or replace. So yeah, it probably was a good idea to change that before it broke your engine.
quick google says "All Honda engines are interference except 3.0L & 3.2 which are Non-interference" hence mangled valves/pistons in Acura. This engine however will be mostly fine if/when belt breaks.
It is! Very well thought-out, and easy to access critical components for serviceability. My initial reaction to servicing this car is just how well built it really is... 25 years old, and none of the rubber components I've removed have even BEGUN to disintegrate! I was able to re-use the original radiator mounts for god sakes! The cooling hoses were a bit ragged, but could have easily been re-used.
I think the needle nose pliers are duralast... I know you have a variety of tools, do you have any comments on duralast tools as a whole? (I could be wrong though and they might not be duralast) great vid, watched the whole thing.
I've never fallen for this "flush X system" thing. I'll never do a transmission flush, just a fluid change, and I'll never do a cooling system flush, again I'll change the fluid.
Common sense for an auto manufacturer would be to make your engine non-interference if it uses a timing belt. Timing chain, however is a different matter, but if it has a chain, you *shouldn't* need to change your chain.
I like your shop light.
Congrats on 16,000 subs and great video on the miata!
Most people may say this isn't necessary.
But I totally understand.
An ounce of preventative maintenance goes a long way from being stranded on the side of the road.
Oil leaks can be nice. I keep mine for extra rust protection
The factory service manual is actually relatively easy to find online, I saw many sites offering an inexpensive download, and I'm certain with some actual effort put in one could find it for free!
Fantastic video, It really warms my heart to see one of these "NA' Miatas bought by someone who is going the extra mile to maintain and take care of it. Most of these cars (as you mentioned in your first video) are bought by teenage idiots who do zero maintenance, drive them to death, and eventually wrap them around a tree attempting a Tokyo Drift.
Any timing belt that's on the front of a longitudinally mounted engine is generally a walk in the park, one of my biggest automotive pet peeves is when manufacturers make the timing belt almost inaccessible by putting a transverse engine half an inch away from the frame rail/wheel well (looking at you, Volkswagen) and the only way to change it is to drop the entire engine/drivetrain.
Very good
So i've got a 94 classic red similar to this one, with 60k miles. The issue Is burnt rubber smell when the car squeals while driving. I take foot off the gas, squeal stops. Any suggestions or idea? New timing belt, radiator, filters and pump.
Can anyone explain why we have timing BELTS rather than chains? Is it just for cost savings, or are there other reasons?
Six-of-one, half-a-dozen of the other. Belts cost less, are quieter, weigh less, and in the case of a non-interference engine, generally do no damage when they break. Timing chains aren't as infallible as one might think... when timing chains go bad, is often just as destructive if not worse, and cost a LOT more to replace. What generally fails in timing chain systems are the plastic chain guides and oil-pressurized tensioners, and depending on the vehicle, this can occur anywhere between 50,000 miles and 150,000 miles. The difference here, is a timing belt has an actual service interval, so if you maintain the belt as directed, you'll never have a problem. A timing CHAIN, on the other hand, generally has no service interval, so when they do eventually fail (and you ignore the warning signs - which can include excessive noise, or even engine lights as the camshafts and crank drift in-and-out of sync), your motor is often demolished once it lets go.
That's neat, I didn't know that 94 had a MAF instead of a VAF
Yes, 1994 was the first year for the MAF. VAFs were a fairly short-lived idea, if I recall. I remember seeing them on old VWs equipped with Bosch Motronic fuel injection.
Good thing too, Toyotas used them for a bit too when the TCCS (Toyota Computer Control System) was in its early life. They don't meter well at idle, they're restrictive, and on Toyotas they were used to trigger the fuel pump turn on which is strange and most folks don't know that until they look at a wiring diagram so they change out the fuel pump when the VAF is the culprit. My Land Cruiser has a VAF and my Tacoma not even two years older has a MAF, you can guess which one runs more efficiently haha
So what would a mechanic charge to do all of this work? $1,500+?
Good to hear from you! I'd estimate this to be at least $800 in repairs, possibly more from a dealer. I was quoted $650 for the belt service and water pump alone... this didn't include a new valve cover gasket, and complete cooling system overhaul. What makes this job truly expensive is the "while-you're-in-there" jobs I did.
Hey bud! Where about in NH are you located? Just recently picked up a 94 miata also and I'm in Derry.
My neighbor's 99 Acura had a timing belt failure around 5 years ago (it probably wasn't ever replaced either) and the engine was completely trashed, and too expensive for them to repair or replace. So yeah, it probably was a good idea to change that before it broke your engine.
quick google says "All Honda engines are interference except 3.0L & 3.2 which are Non-interference" hence mangled valves/pistons in Acura.
This engine however will be mostly fine if/when belt breaks.
Wow, that's a tidy engine bay!
It is! Very well thought-out, and easy to access critical components for serviceability. My initial reaction to servicing this car is just how well built it really is... 25 years old, and none of the rubber components I've removed have even BEGUN to disintegrate! I was able to re-use the original radiator mounts for god sakes! The cooling hoses were a bit ragged, but could have easily been re-used.
I think the needle nose pliers are duralast... I know you have a variety of tools, do you have any comments on duralast tools as a whole? (I could be wrong though and they might not be duralast) great vid, watched the whole thing.
I've never fallen for this "flush X system" thing. I'll never do a transmission flush, just a fluid change, and I'll never do a cooling system flush, again I'll change the fluid.
You plan on lowering or doing any mods?
No, my plan is to keep this car as close to factory as possible
Common sense for an auto manufacturer would be to make your engine non-interference if it uses a timing belt. Timing chain, however is a different matter, but if it has a chain, you *shouldn't* need to change your chain.
...unless it's in a Nissan, or Mitsubishi product! Those are known for timing chain guide issues, and often under the 150,000 mile mark.
or VW, everything past 2008 was factory defective :)
Or Toyota with their plastic chain guides in the 22RE, even the greats have their moments.