TaoTao ATM50-A1 Chinese Scooter PDI Assembly Part 7 : Unsealing The Stock Carburetor
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- čas přidán 16. 06. 2013
- Part 7 of the Tao Tao ATM50A1 Chinese scooter PDI assembly video series details removing, unsealing, and re-installation of the stock carb. Many scooters have sealed carburetors to meet EPA emissions standards. That means you can't access the idle mixture screw or anything under the bowl or adjust the needle via regular means. Watch this video to find out how to access those things and more.
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#PDI #SealedCarb #UnrestrictedCarb - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks man my TaoTao racer 50 had a plug like that over top the idle air mixture screw... I drilled it out and extracted it exactly like you showed. worked perfectly! Thanks a million!!!
Thank you. You've shared a lot of knowledge in this series. I really appriciate it.
Great Carb video! Thanks for taking the time to make it!
Thanks for watching!
To reuse the headless screws use a dremel cut off wheel and notch a flat head into each head.
This was a great video mate!!! Wish I had found this video before I orders a new carb, but now I know the mechanics of disassembling and reassembling a carburetor now, and can help some people out. 100 thumbs up.
A tip : you can watch movies at Flixzone. Been using them for watching all kinds of movies during the lockdown.
this is really helpful
Thank you so much! Bro! You made my day!
You are awesome! I am thinking about buying a 150cc bws tao tao...i believe its pretty similar to this one! ill be watchin all of ur videos!
Thanks. Not sure if they're sealing carbs on the larger than 50cc models or not now, but the rest of the PDI will still apply.
Excellent How To. Thank you......
Nice trick with the screw extractor. 👍Unbelievable that the stock carb restricts the owner from maintenance and cleaning of an always problematic carburetor.
Keep Scootin" 🛵🏁
Just as another tip on removing stripped scres on a carb. I like to to take my vice scripts and clamp it to the bolt and free it up. Then you are able to use the screw driver to remove the rest of the way. This works on nearly all the screws on the carb minus the tamper proof screws.
thanks for you help..i really appreciate it
Thank you! Your videos are awesome!
Thanks!
GREAT INFO.
Usually some eBay sellers have them and you can search for Kehin PD18-J, PD19-J, PD18J, PD19J etc... and find them at other retailers.
John Doe, 1700-2000RPM. high enough that it doesn't stall once warm and low enough that the rear tire isn't spinning.
When I removed my brass plug for the idle mixture, I just used a small punch with a hammer. Turned it sideways and then grabbed it with pliers.
Very good camera and also your description.
Thank you!
Did you do a valve adjustment on the taotao when you were doing the pdi or did you wait? And did you get a new gasket for it? Mine should be coming in about 4 days and I want to eliminate as many small problems as I can before first start. Big fan
If it's always warm, you could prob do without it. You can pump the ones with accelerator pumps anyway to get some extra fuel if needed for starting. You'd need to block the passage off, not just the mounting plate.
I tried backing out the screws that get rounded out (9:02) with a hand driver as you did, with the same result. Then I tried my Ridgid pulse driver on the lowest torque setting and they came right out. I think I'll still replace them as you did.
They're junk screws regardless of how they come out. You don't want to deal with them repeatedly IMO and decent screws are cheap.
yeah the keihin carbs are amazing
9:22 I do this by making a groove with a saw in the screw and then unscrewing it with a flathead screwdriver works everytime for me and then replace the screws
Cool :D Is this gonna be your daily driver? I know you had another scoot very similar but the crank went. Will you be adding a BB kit or anything?
Most information I have seen! Great
strange question, but is the Blackpiece on the carb with the wires truly needed? can it be pulled out and covered with a plate instead, or some Jb weld and a penny? It's always warm here, so maybe i can remove it, sometimes i hear they get stuck any advice is appreciated.
Hey brother changed every crappy Chinese fuel line on the scooter with exception of the fuel drain with the spring cover I didn't know fuel sit in that line constantly. Aren't the a screw you need to loosen on the carb before fuel goes into the drain line ? Nobody mentions replacing that line when changing fuel & vacuum lines. Thanks for sharing the PDI repair vids 🤘Salute 😎
Hey first off, thanks for making all of these videos. I bought a TaoTao a year and a half ago, and these videos were such a help for getting it put together and running. Today I decided to install a new carb on the scooter, so I followed these instructions, but I couldn't get the thing to start. To test whether the new carb was bad, I reinstalled the old one, and now it won't even start with the original. I have tried both electric and kickstarting to no avail. Do you have any suggestions as to what I could have done wrong for this to occur? As far as I can tell, I have reattached everything as best as can be done, so I was just wondering if you have any troubleshooting tips I can use to diagnose the problem. Thanks again
+John Merranko If you still have the vacuum petcock, it will take a bit of cranking to prime the carb (fill the bowl) so it can start after a swap. You can look at the plug if you're not sure if it's getting fuel. If the plug is totally dry it's not getting fuel and if it's soaked you may have flooded it.
I have a qmb139 on my scoot do you know what the idle rpm should be at???
when i unsealed my carb i took out the needle and may have lost the rubber washer that was on it or maybe it just did not have one there at all. could some of them come without one? im going to go around and look for it but if i can find it.. where can i pick one up?
Very helpful with everything 🙌👊 Ok I got a new Taotoa 150 quantum tour & going to Due PDI, should I just order the keihin carb & the drive upgrades, change all fluids along with brake fluid? Before break-in, to save myself trouble. Because in Ohio & winter is right around the corner 🌬❄LOL 😣 . Not that I'm going to ride ( just starting unless decent temps ? Thanks again & appreciate any advice. In the middle of rebuilding the carb on my snowblower at the samtime LOL. Salute 😎
I don't know if the 150 will have a sealed carb or not. It may still have it because of emissions, in which case I'd order another carb. You should be able to get one pretty quickly, so you could always wait and see. Definitely do the rest of the stuff in the PDI though.
Really Interesting series, will be watching for the first start! I used to have a couple of these scoots but now ride a C90 as I prefer the chain drive stuff.
so pd19j and pd18j are the same? what is the exact size for the air filter intake and intake manifold (O.D. and I.D.)? Thank you!
How did it not work? Won't bite to pull them? If there's room left without damaging the carb, you can try the next size up on the extractor if that's the case. Try it first without any re-drilling. Worst case scenario is replace the carb, which can be done under $50 for one that's not sealed and better quality so it's not really worth taking the carb to have anyone else remove the screws.
Left handed drill bits are my first choice for bolt removal. You have a good chance the will unscrew the bolt.
Do you still have the link for your buying of that keihin carb? It's a hard time for me to find that pd19j on anywhere! Thanks!
hey bro thanks a lot I got it fixed thanks to one of your videos... I have another question my ATV has a handle where you put reverse neutral or forward, next to it has a female harness connector but it doesn't have the male the one that runs to the front of the bike to the little plastic by the handlebars that has the lights for r as in reverse and and as a neutral, my question is do you know what the part is called
Gear indicator harness? Not sure. You may need to talk with a dealer to find it.
90GTVert ok thanks
Hey can you help me find a keihin or something similar formy 49cc i think they out of stock
***** Not sure why the lever would be missing other than getting broken or tampered with. When it gets around freezing and below many scoots struggle to start from the effects of cold on the battery. I kick start mine in cold weather.
I've read quite a few complaints about the accelerator pump. I've had some myself. I have a wideband so I can see the air/fuel ratio and mine will sometimes hit 10:1 (very rich) when the accelerator pump squirts. I do like it for cold starting though because it's easy to get a little extra fuel in there if needed. The cable tie method would be easy enough to try and reverse if the outcome was unfavorable.
You don't really have to have a gauge. If it gets overly rich it will sputter. If it's very lean it will bog. If either of those symptoms appear when you first hit the throttle or get on and off of the throttle than the accel pump or lack of one may be an issue.
Well there's a mm difference. Basically the same. Should be 38mm OD on the mouth. Outlet to intake should be around 19mm ID and I think about 25mm OD.
Other options, the plug over the mixture screw is not welded in and is usually just simply plugged in. Because of that, I've been able to simply punch a hole or drill a hole and pull it out. About the float bowl screws. The bottom half (will be top if Its upside down) is not threaded, only the top is. Because of that, you can simply cut the head of the screw off with a grinder, rotary tool or saw and the float bowl will come right off. Than you can unscrew the headless stud from the other half. I have been able to unscrew the studs by hand. Or use some cheap locking pliers on the screw head. The screws are not in that tight. Just pointing out other options that has worked for me throughout the years if anyone wants to try.
Great video but great question. I cleaned the carb and when starting it, it starts but shuts off after about 15 seconds. The air filter is soaked with gas. New gas, spark plug, battery, valves are adjusted fine. Wont stay running. Any ideas?
Check the float height. Maybe you altered it when cleaning the carb. www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html#floatheight
Really not sure where to get a replacement unless you search for an o-ring to match the diameter of the needle. You should be able to tell if it had one, because the slide should have a receiver groove where the o-ring would fit.
How do you now that you have the right mixture?
Bro plz help me.....
I bought an ATV that's similar to this a scooter my point is that has some vacuums hoses that I don't know where they go to can you please help me?
I'm not real familiar with ATVs, but maybe this will help :
Vac hoses most likely go to emissions equipment and a vacuum petcock, if so equipped.
czcams.com/video/QCskx5LO33c/video.html
czcams.com/video/ubUosWJUhM4/video.html
90GTVert thanks for responding.... Let me start by saying that on one of your videos you have the fuel line exactly how I have it instead of having a on and off switch with a little vacuum nipple it just has it on and off so let me see these other video that you did sent me
I added two #4 washers to the stock needle. The scooter runs exactly as it did before, I didn't notice any difference. Should I add a 3rd washer? What else should I do aside raising the needle higher to allow more gas in?
Depends where your trouble is. If you are fiddling with the needle, it should be primarily because of 1/4-3/4 throttle issue. For problems around WOT, main jet swaps are needed. For 1/4 or less, it's the mixture screw and pilot jet. Lots of info : www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html
+90GTVert.
I have a tao tao zummer and tried to remove the screws as shown but tore up the original carb. I bought a chinese KeiHin carb, but after installing, I found I actually lost power and MPH. My scooter can barely go 25mph unless its a downhill grade. Any suggestions why I lost power? Any adjustments I need to check? My local dealer says it's because it's not a real KeiHin, but either way I dont think that would be an issue. There must be some kind of adjustment I need to make.
Compare main jets from the old carb to the new. If you don't have the old carb, most seem to come with someting around an 80 main. May just need to be tuned. No reason a fake Keihin can't work. Most of the carbs on these are low end Chinese stuff.
Hi Brent! I had time to look at the scoot after classes were done in early June and was mostly running well for 4 days after putting in the factory CDI, then stalled on the 4th day, got a new carb and ran much better, then the drive belt snapped! I got a new one, but it's very tight (fits Taotao 50cc), only got it on both sides once, and the clutch is very hard to move, impossible to move when the belt is on the clutch. Any videos, or ideas?
669 18 30 should be what fits the short case. If you aren't opening the rear pulley, it's gonna be really tight and really hard to get the belt on in most cases. I can usually get a grip on the clutch/pulley and squeeze it open without the belt in there, but have it sitting wrapped around the pulley. Then maneuver it in while still holding the pulley. If it's a stock contra spring, it really shouldn't be all that tough though.
czcams.com/video/2EjW-iSP-Q8/video.html
I was probably doing something wrong that first night, but don't know what went wrong. Your video, and others like it, all made it look easy to simply pull on the clutch/rear pulley and voila, the belt is 'loose', but on my Taotao 50cc scooter it seemed impossible to move the pulley at all if the belt was on the pulley, plus there was NO ROOM to move the belt above, or behind, the pulley as you mentioned above.
Have you changed the belt on your Taotao 50cc yet? The only way I was able to open up the clutch was to do so with the belt 'off' the rear pulley and once I attempted to put the belt in place, the clutch would immediately SNAP closed again....so the belt was too tight.
One clue I saw on dozens of videos and forums online was a warning that once a drive belt SNAPPED while driving, it was MUCH HARDER to change the belt. Has your belt ever snapped when driving?
A guess is that the clutch gets hard to move when the belt snaps when you're driving, but maybe I was just frustrated by another problem when trying to fix my scoot, so tired after 5 hours of trying?
One other problem was my rollers kept slipping out of place when I mounted the assembly on the drive shaft. My center stand BROKE OFF early this year, so was using the kick stand when working on it, so it was slanted downward. I guess I could lean the scoot the other way against a cement wall to keep the scoot nearly level.
My air-fuel mixture screw fell out and got lost. Is it the thread of a normal screw with a spring loaded thing or something? Do you think I can use a standard screw or use some other workaround? I wrapped a small screw in a thin cloth and shoved it in there which works but that's not going to last. Any info or advice would be awesome. Thanks for your videos, they rock!
I think the size is M6x0.5, but it may be different in some carbs. A regular screw/bolt isn't gonna work as it should... I wouldn't think, but haven't tried it. PartsForScooters sells a mix screw for under $3 ATM. Part # 151-198. Check that out and see if it looks like what you need.
***** Awesome, thanks so much!!
i have a question on the bottom drain hose on the left.what is the right side go to?
great video by the way.thanks
donsotto111 Nothing.
HI, I just got a 50cc that was not running, it has 267mi on it, I replaced fuel and vacuum lines, it is getting spark, It cranks but no start, I used clear lines and I noticed when you try to start it the fuel takes forever to reach the carburator from the tank on cranking, and moved slowe through the hoses, is this normal? I have seen other videos where the gas traveled very fast,,,could it be a vacumm leak or bad petcock, TY for you help
Could be either of those or clogged filter or tank venting issue... but sometimes it does take some cranking to get fuel to reach the carb.
Hey man, I feel my scooter is dead slow, it doesn't have any kind of restrictions in the CDI or variator since there's no variator " washer " or plate that prevents the weights from going out max, tho the restriction I've got is that the exhaust must have some plug within it, so i oupted to change the exhaust without any restrictions so it wouldn't be so dead slow at starts and uphills etc, tho if i will remove the plug, the scooter will easily go 35 miles per hour as I've been told and Swedish laws prohibits speeds over 30mph on a 50cc scooter, so if I change the weights in the variator to lighter ones, could i lower speed that way? Since there's no rev limator.. is it bad to do that way or is there another way to limit speed without impacting the acceleration?
Lighter weights could make it rev too much all the time if they were enough to knock off 5MPH. My first thought would be to try adding a spacer in the variator. You could use a spacer the same size as the drive boss till it allowed the front pulley to open enough for the belt to drop all the way down. That should actually improve acceleration, though it may also raise RPM a little. Sometimes that knocks of speed, sometimes it doesn't. You could use a spacer in there that's large enough to stop the front pulley from closing as far as possible. Not sure how thick you'd need. Could be .5mm, could be 2mm? Pretty much any way you keep the belt from traveling it will raise RPM at speed though. About the only way you're going to limit it without raising RPM would be to find some sort of rev limiter. Limiting power will of course reduce acceleration as well.
When I was taking off body panels to check hoses, etc, a little green cap (like the one on the newer carb you were showing) fell out of my scooter onto the ground. Do I need this or is this just garbage? It looks like it went over the area where you attached the air box hose to the carb.
I can't think of anything else off the top of my head that would look like that. You could keep it just in case you ever see a need for it, but it's not unusual to find unnecessary things left behind like that. Could see if it indeed fits the mouth of the carb if it really bugs you.
Cool, thx. I saw on some other guys videos that they had left a plastic baggie up inside his. lol
first thank you for all your video's I sent away for shut off valve for the gas and they sent me this small little metal one that is to hard to turn . I want to get rid of the petcock. Where can I buy one like the one you bought.
Try a local small engine shop or maybe even hardware store in the lawn and garden section.
i took the carb out, and got what I believe to be is "the cap" off, however i dont see a mixture screw, it almost looks like another brass cone like piece, not sure what to do next. my main issue is that the scooter starts fine but will shortly after die unless i maintain the throttle, tried adjusting the idle screw but it now idels close to 2500 rpm and i feel as though that is rather high, can post a pic if needed
I have heard that some have a screw with no slot for adjustment even under the cap for the mix screw, but I haven't heard of a cone shaped screw or plug before. A$25-30 for a new carb may be the easy answer. If it's only dying just after it starts, you may just need to let it warm up. That can be a problem with these. The enrichers don't always work flawlessly.
90GTVert any recommendations for a good new one, I've read that Japanese carbs are best money can buy
I actually used the same screw extractor from harbor freight, it ended up not even working for me :(, what do I do now?
Where can you get the Japanese carburetor?
I recently purchased a new aftermarket carburetor for my 50cc four stroke and it has two flat head screws for adjustments can you tell me what these are for I know that one is air fuel.but there's another on down by the float bowl.and do they come pre adjusted.thanks
+christina ritch Usually there's a mixture screw and an idle speed screw. If it's on the float bowl, it's probably a drain. Lots of pics here that may help : www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html
Thanks again
Do you know what size the large clutch nut is on the Taotao 50 cc scooter? Your video and forum say 38 mm, but parts website says 27 mm with a pic of a Taotao.
Mine uses a 38mm socket. It may be 27mm threads though. 2 different things.
Well, we should have the same size as we both have a Taotao 50 cc with a 1P39QMB short case engine, just wanted to make sure it's the correct socket size. Websites constantly put pics up of one scooter, then on the next page sell you a socket for a different scooter.
Final exams will be coming up next week, so just need the one socket to take apart and inspect that clutch assembly to see why that clutch is so tight. I saw a 32 mm impact socket at Harbor Freight for $4.99, so will see if I can order the 38 mm from them, or direct from Pittsburgh. The 27 mm is only $4.49, but that''s too small.
Looking up the cheapest price for the 38mm socket ($14.99 at Home Depot) and saw on O'Reilly's auto parts a description of the 38mm being for the Axle nut of a Front Wheel drive car, so the 4 way wrench for my old Toyota Camry should have a 38mm socket.
Do you think that's the correct size Brent? My guess from memory is 'maybe'? I know one of the 4-way sockets fits our rear-wheel nut, but don't know that size, nor if it's the largest socket, nor if the largest socket is a 38mm. Any idea on the 4 sizes on the 4-way wrench? I do know the 4-way would work using your technique....if the right size.
I finally got my friend to take a look at my scooter after church on Sunday and he was right, I had a fouled electrode on my spark plug from that mishap in school. It didn't sound like it was going to turn over after a few cranks, but it suddenly started and we turned up the idle speed screw to the highest rpm's and let it run awhile, so he left and I put it back together quickly as I was very low on gas. I got up the steep little hill in the alley and onto the street, rear tire was really low, so swerved a little due to it, then got maybe 50 yards before it sounded like it was running out of gas, then stalled.
It was very hot and had to walk it pretty far to the gas station, but got $3.00 of premium gas, so fairly close to being full. I tried to get some air for the tire there, but it was a machine wanting 75 cents for air, so tried to head back to church on the continuation of the maiden voyage, but kept stalling, no power, would get the rpm's up a bit so it could start moving, then engine would go back to idling speed, so something wrong with the mid-range in the new Kei-Hin carb, my friend's friend in my car engine repair class said due to the black soot on the pilot jet, he suspected I had a newly re-built carburetor, not a new one, and that they had 'sandblasted' it. He said to put a clean rag over the back of the venturi to form a vacuum to I guess get the gas to clean out the insides of the carb where it was sandblasted.
I also thought maybe it was so sluggish due to the rear wheel being so low and the carb maybe not being level?, so decided I'd buy some more fix-a-flat at the Pep Boys up the street, so put some in the tire there, but didn't start up. I figured maybe it as flooded so would begin walking the scoot back to the church and take a few tries at starting it up on the way. I got it to the overpass of the 10 freeway and gave it a try on the curb and got it started and it ran okay 'on the curb', but once I got into traffic and got to the other side of the street, the engine was dogging it again and stalled. I tried maybe one more time, but the battery then sounded low, so decided to walk it back.
I took a nap after all that heat, then decided to swap in that known good Chinese carb, but first took it apart and used those two small washers you advised for the needle jet/jet needle, but of course bent the needle a little the first time and it was hard to get out, so used my pliers to straighten it out and got it installed right. My professor said the diaphragm on the Chinese carb was good, but something caused that carb to do it every time I went from idle to WOT, so figured the needle jet wasn't rich enough and the washers would richen it up at the mid range.
I also changed to the machine screws at the top of that Chinese carb, then re-installed it, but found that my 'new' last bit of the fuel line was leaking, so since it was already 11PM and I still had to walk pretty far to do all my dirty laundry, plus needed a shave a shower, I decided like an idiot I'd try that trick of that lawnmower guy and 'melt' a little that new line hoping it would seal and stop leaking, but of course that is dangerous just as you and I both protested at this man's suggestions that it wasn't, so of course the first time there wasn't a problem, but thought it might need a little more heat to seal up completely, no time to take it all apart again, get laundry and a shower done, etc., and of course the second time a fire started!
The rubber boot of the throttle cable was melted beyond repair, so threw it away, should get a new cable when I have the chance, and of course the last part of the fuel line was charred, plus that drainage hose, so put on the old tygon cap and metal clamp instead and threw that drainage hose away because the bolt fell off the CVT cover anyway, so don't think the hose is needed. I replaced that bit of fuel line and had to call off laundry and a much needed shower for that night, so thought things were okay other than in a dopey manner installing the throttle cable 'over' the air box hose due to the emergency I guess. However, a friend at the church asked me if I had started my scooteri inside because something smelled, so said it was probably the burned rubber and would go away quickly when the doors of the church were open a few minutes, but got back later last night and could tell the smell was gas!
I had no clean clothes, so did laundry first, then took the carb apart and found the leak was in the bowl of the Chinese carb, so either the float got melted/damaged, and/or the gasket for the bowl got damaged/melted, but pretty sure it was the float. I figured the known good Chinese carb had to be rebuilt to use again, so got out the Kei-Hin carb and took it apart to see if I could fix it. I opened up the bowl and think I found the problem with the sluggish engine and sure enough my motorcycle repair professor was right, the problem with the new engine was a 'fuel delivery problem'.
I noticed that the cover for the bowl was filled with some sort of sticky substance I gather could be the remnants of this alleged 'sand-blasting' technique to refurbish that old Kei-hin carb, plus plenty more of that same stuff around the plastic float and inside the rest of the bowl as well, but I checked inside both sides of the venturi and the needle jet area and that was all clean. I also checked again the # 95 main jet and the formerly clogged with black soot pilot jet and both were still clean.
One weird thing I noticed when inspecting the diaphragm and needle jet was that there was a small philipse head screw by the needle jet and that the needle jet wouldn't move at all, so the engine might have 'no' mid-range as a result because pretty sure it's supposed to 'move'. I remember your Kei-hin carb in the video had an adjustable needle jet, but no such thing in mine. My Chinese carb is like yours and had the white cap and spring, so swapped in that diaphragm and needle jet with the two small washers, but kept the Kei-Hin spring and black cap, so will see how that set-up works in the mid-range. Anyway, I used my carb cleaner to 'soak' that built up sand sludge in the bowl cover and cleaned the float and inside the bowl a few times as well. It all seemed pretty clean when I was done, plus took off the accelerator cover to see what was in there, but really just some sort of rubber diaphragm or something, so just wiped it clean a little with a clean paper towel.
I put the carb, air box hose, and throttle cable under the hose, all back together and there was thankfully no gas leaks and this time the 'new' fuel line held, then put the scooter back together, locked it up, and took a shave/shower.
The one bit of good news in the Sunday/Monday fiasco was that I noticed I was able to start and run at idle the engine several times, without using any starting fluid, so that was good news, at least until the battery started to sound weak. I charged the battery before taking a nap, then installed it 'before' the second flame-out, for very different reasons in the second disaster, but at least got rid of that stupid fuel drain line that served no purpose whatsoever for me with that CVT bolt/socket being faulty from the factory as the bolt had nothing to bite onto after I took the CVT cover apart to 'try' and change that starter bendix at UCLA when I got stranded last year there. I'm pretty sure the vibrations of riding the scoot ended up with that bolt falling out of the CVT, so really putting on that pain in the neck metal spring over the long hose is a wasted effort as I could simply open up the bowl of the carb to drain it that way.
Anyway, I don't know for sure yet where I stand with getting the new engine running yet, but turned the idle speed screw to top rpm's for now like my friend from church, found out on Sunday that he actually fixes cars, but got the scoot started with some starting fluid and idling well, so I was pleased, but didn't know long ago that the probable problem all along was two crummy carburetors causing all these difficult to start issues. Thus, can't say for sure, but with a full charge on the new 4 amp battery now and a cleaned out 'new' Kei-Hin carb with a diaphragm and two small washers to enrichen the mid-range fuel delivery, I just might have 'one' good carburetor now and 'no' fuel delivery problems, but in no rush to find out for sure as I need a couple days just to recuperate after that second flame out disaster, filthy 'gunk' in the bowl, etc.
Nevertheless, with a nearly full tank of fresh premium fuel and a few starts without using any starting fluid 'might' mean that in a few days, I'm able to turn over engine easily and able to take it out for the second maiden voyage and maybe this time the mid-range will work okay with the sightly richer mixture in the mid-range!
What do you think of this valve stem below? It's a chrome like you used to replace the OEM valve stem in one of your videos. It's $6.00 for one, whereas the OEM type is $5.00 for two new valve stems, but it all depends on the 'quality' of both. Does the chrome type stem last longer than the OEM? I'm unsure of 'why' I have a slow leak in that rear tire, but think I did see a 'slice' in the side of the tire at some point over the past year or so, hard to see down there unless a bright day and you're working on the ground!, but could be a slow leak due to that rubber part at the base of the stem. I figure after I get the scoot running reliably and the carb tuned properly, first thing is t order a new tire and valve stem, then replace both of them. I gotta replace that damaged seat with the new one I brought still in the box, plus try and fix that broken speedometer that broke right before I put in that engine. After I do that, my scooter just might be running okay again,...new oil change and new spark plug too! Talk about some bad luck with carburetors huh? Three bad ones since it was in the cage!
www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Stem-90-Angle-0-327-WPS-85-0445-Motorcycle-Scooter-Tire-Valve-Chrome-/261970421298?hash=item3cfea76632&vxp=mtr
chris962 Wow. Please don't set yourself or the scooter on fire. lol That valve stem looks alright to me. The issue with stock is that they have a rubber base that dries and cracks if it gets bent/moved so the metal ones with just rubber gaskets work out better. There are rubber valve stems that are better quality, like what a tire shop may carry, but I've been pleased with the ones like you listed.
***** Yeah, I knew what that guy advised could be dangerous, but somehow did those dangerous things at UCLA nowhere close to water and somehow didn't get a flameout, but from now on I'm only using the trick my car engine repair teacher showed me for the fuel line, which is to stick my philipse head screw driver inside the tygon hose to enlarge it where it's too small to fit over the fuel filter and on/off valve, then use a little flame to loosen it up a little to get an easy fit...nowhere near any gas!....then not use anymore flame afterwards. I had so much trouble fitting that tygon hose in those bigger areas, but funny how it fits perfectly at the gas tank and carburetor nipples, the right size. Live and learn I guess, LOL!
Yeah, I had a feeling that chrome type stem was better quality in the video, but inspected it on that link again and could see that the rubber inside the wheel with the two nuts inside the wheel was probably a much more durable set-up and lasts much longer than the stock type with 'nothing' inside the wheel to hold the stem in place.
Well, I figure I'll give the scooter another try at starting and riding it on either Thursday or Friday night after I get two appointments out of the way on Thursday. It boggles my mind that I buy a so-called 'new' Kei-Hin carb and start it a few times at school with friends and my car engine repair teacher, then once this past Sunday and go on my first 'maiden' voyage, and have all those idling problems due to that clogged with black soot idle jet, but didn't check the 'bowl' after that first time starting with the Kei-hin, and then have all those 'mid-range' problems when actually on the road with that tire really low on air, so bad I couldn't get it to run at WOT at all...so had no idea what the problem was on Sunday, then the flame-out damage and repairs needed, plus the gas leaking from the Chinese carb, and then to top it off have all that sticky gunk inside bowl? Good grief!
That seller has to be kidding me selling that Kei-hin car as if it's 'new'! I'll bet the friend of my friend in car repair class was right and that carb was rebuilt and they sand-blasted it, so the first couple times running it with engine would be a disaster to the uninitiated! And that philipse head screw keeping the needle jet from moving at all seems like you have to be some carburetor repair genius or mechanic to know you probably need to unscrew and take out that little screw to get the needle jet to move, but your Kei-hin carb had that adjustable needle jet, so a different set-up.
Anyway, it's possible that the bit of charring of the outer black covering of the electrical line for the choke on the Kei-hin is probably fine and the electric starter worked fine with some charring there in the 'first' flame-out at school, so the starter and choke from the first flame-out out ought to be fine as it worked fine on Sunday, so quite possible I worked out all the kinks on Sunday by cleaning out the bowl of the Kei-hin, so I might get very different performance levels the next time I try to crank the engine. It's possible that I've now fixed all the 'fuel-delivery' problems and my new engine might finally work fine and now that the smoke from the 'first' start is gone, and the funny smells from the new engine on the 2nd start is gone, so it's quite possible that the new engine will work properly next time I start it. That would be a freakin miracle! All I'd have to do after starting it is take it for a fairly short ride and open it up a bit on the road, then let the engine rest overnight. After that, the engine should be starting up like usual and running well.
90GTVert I'm having the hardest time finding an authentic KEI HIN PD19J carb. Any suggestions??? Ive searched on ebay, and none of the carbs I see have the black plastic top, marked with kei hin technology from japan, and model number stamp on front of carb body.
It seems that sellers for those come and go. Not 100% sure they're genuine, but 02starrider on eBay sells Keihins that I've heard quite a few forum members use without complaint.
***** i ordered a new kei hin from 02starrider per your suggestion. tried to put it on my scoot today, but having trouble figuring the fuel bowl drain valve. the stock carb has a nipple and a blank, & drain tube attaches to that nipple. the new carb has a screw (in place of the nipple) and a blank and no where to attach the drain tube. am i missing something? at 13:19 in your video i see that on the new carb, the screw is slightly out, and drain hose is attached to the 'blank'?
If you want to use the stock drain hose with the metal end that allows you to remotely drain the bowl, you'd need to attach it, make sure it's closed, and then open the screw on the bowl. Otherwise you can leave that off and just use the screw on the bowl if you need to drain it. I used a plain hose to redirect fuel away from the hot engine if I need to drain it and left the screw closed.
Having trouble knowing whether or not slack on brake line is sufficient. Should it be taut? Or have some play? The screws can't be tightened any further.
Cable rear brake? If you're talking about adjusting the cable, you need to adjust it so it works but isn't always trying to grab. It's just some trial and error. Nothing too complicated or to stress too much over.
@@49ccscoot my mistake, I meant the throttle cable...all is good though THANKS!
@@ciabruno2357 Ah. Yeah, leave a little slack in the throttle cable adjustment, but not much.
The two screws on the cover were not standard Phillips head they are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard)
It was an eBay seller and they haven't had any since that I've seen.
can that kei hin carburetor fit for a GY6 150cc engine?
The 150 should use a 24mm.
Did a 2 stroke carb can fit on the 139qmb engine ?
***** You can fit one, it just won't work great.
***** Ok, but i have another questions, the keihin cvk carburetors are from china too ? Because i can found them on Aliexpress
Genuine KeiHins aren't from China, but Chinese factories rip off a lot of things.
I would redo the drain hose so the carburetor and fuel tank can be drained easily, so the fuel system won't age with gas all winter.
I finished putting in that new carburetor Brent and sure enough no more stalling, so there definitely is something obstructing the flow through the pilot jet in that stock carb, plus looked at your other video on the fuel line I believe and noticed that I actually can adjust the idle mixture on it, but have to buy that D shaped tool and don't have one of those. I bet Harbor Freight has one of them for cheap. I was watching your video and had to stop and check my stock carb in the garage and sure enough that nub looks D-shaped. Anyway, it went well enough, but saw another mistake I made last night just now towards the end of this video. Firstly though, How did you get that airbox hose to move so easily? Mine seems super stiff, but maybe because I've got over 6,0000 km on mine already, so seems like if I tried to push it to the side, it might break. Do you think it's okay to move my stiff airbox hose? I knew I was forgetting something from your video on re-installing the new carb when working on my scoot, but watched a bunch of other videos about carburetors, taking apart motorcycle engines and even taking apart a Honda Acura Integra 1.8 Liter, 4 cylinder, DOHC 16 valve Engine, very cool video, as my old 1989 Toyota Corolla had a nearly identical engine other than being a 1.5 Liter, so 300cc's smaller in size and less horsepower, very neat how this mechanic took it all apart.
Oh yes, and the mistake I made is that due to that super stiff airbox hose being in the way, I still remembered I had to re-install the new carb firstly onto the intake manifold, but didn't realize I had to make that arrow shape meet up with the other receiving side, so no as good a seal there on my carb/intake manifold as on your scoot. How'd you get it in there so snug? You make it look easy, but I think you put a lot of force into making those two parts meet up, but then again you got that pesky airbox hose out of the way first, so much easier that way. I guess when I'm actually working on the scoot, I'm always worried I"m going to break something!
The other thing is my one screw-driver I couldn't get to that new carb's idle mixture screw and the only other screwdriver I had was really too big for that small screw, plus it's an old one that is too long for the job with the chassis in the way.
I messed with that idle mixture screw, in and out trying to get the highest rpm's and that seemed not too bad, but the problem I think is I see the idle speed screw at too low an rpm because I noticed a few problems with it, 1. there's a delay when you're idling to when going WOT and the scooter takes a while to start moving and also too long to pick up speed, 2. when idling, I noticed that if I pick up the rpm's a bit to where it starts moving, then let go of the throttle to go back to normal idle speed, one time it nearly stalled, so a sign that the idle speed screw is set at too low rpm's, so figure setting it at a bit higher rpm speed at idle, it might fix both of those problems, and 3. this new carb didn't have nearly as much engine power as that old crappy stock carburetor, so perhaps related to these other carb tuning problems?
My top-end speed driving down Vermont Ave. late last night was maybe 38mph, but even with all those stalling problems after I tried to get off that cap over the idle mixture screw, before I figured out I needed a new starter,...in the past with the old carb my average top-end speed going down that same stretch of road was about 41mph, but of course an optimistic speedometer. No idea on if this new carb fixed the problems going up steep hills yet as Vermont Ave looks like it doesn't have any hills at all, but there is a difference in slope...seems to be a slight uphill grade going north on Vermont and slight downhill grade going south on it.
Anyway, even though the headlight dimmed slightly that one time when adding a little gas on the throttle, then nearly stalled, it still didn't stall, so a VAST improvement on that old carb that way. I wouldn't even ride it until I got the new carb installed.
The single D shaped tools aren't too common. Not sure you'll find them at HF. I had to get one online, though I'd imagine some small engine places may know where to get one since some lawn type equipment uses them. Online they're about $15 and a new carb isn't far off so it may not even be worth it unless you like tools and want to be prepared for future stock carbs as well.
The airbox hose can be pretty stiff. No real trick there other than make sure everything is lose and if the hose is getting brittle or really hard then it may need replacement. Some things do require a little force. A lot of the tricks of mechanical work involve learning the very basics and feel of things and also learning that sometimes doing things in the right order makes a big difference. Another lesson, the toughest one for me, is simply to pay attention all the time. It's so easy to miss little details, or sometimes big ones.
I'm lucky to have a couple of pocket screwdrivers that tool truck drivers used to give out. They're great for mix screws. I'm sure something similar can be found cheap. Another one that comes in handy is a long thin flat screwdriver. Can be used to reach in and adjust without having to disassemble things in some cases. If you like to work on stuff you really can't have too many tools.
I think some of these carbs are overfueling when the accelerator pump works. Mine will sputter and bog as well at times messing with the throttle at low throttle positions. I can watch the air/fuel meter peg on rich when it happens. I managed to make mine stop mostly just through time tuning it, getting all parts right (main, needle. idle mix, idle speed) but still it'll do it at times. Picking the idle speed up a little more than is necessary to keep it running helps some for me.
If the new carb is a direct replacement anywhere within a couple mm of stock size, you shouldn't lose 3MPH. Could be just conditions that night. Could be that the tune is not spot on yet with the new carb.
Glad to hear you're at least making some headway.
***** Thanks Brent! Btw, it made me laugh when you said..."pay attention all the time"...as I made a couple other big errors last night! My low back was killing me bending over all the time, I'll have to get this one old computer desk chair that is low to the ground for next time...think the pain/stiffness when I stand up effects the brain! LOL! I've got some serious problems with my neck/back/pelvis from a lot of years of playing tackle football from age 7 to age 16, so catches up on me when bent over and struggling with putting in a new carb!
Btw,....Why didn't you hit me over the head when I mentioned that carb for sale online? I just took a look online on the same site, eBay, and saw a new carb similar to mine, when I put in Kei-Hin, it had 02starrider with one for sale for $29.45 and free shipping, so for $4.00 more I could have got better quality! I thought for some reason a Kei-Hin would cost me up to $50.00 new, so too pricey, but $4.00 is nothing! I think that new Chinese carb was the last thing I got with 'no' tax, got a pair of new tennis shoes last month, but think I had to pay tax on it, pissed! Then again maybe had to pay tax on the carb too, just can't remember now.
Oh yes, and I upped the rpm's on the idle speed screw and took it for a ride and it's a little better and going down a small hill got up to 41mph, so doing better, but it still hesitates most of the time when going from idle to accelerating, so not too happy with the performance of this carb right now.
Btw, more funny things, or mistakes, one thing is when I got back from my first ride last night, I wasn't able to unlock my seat and then remembered I forgot to put that barrel back in place in my rush to get to the store before 2AM because I still had to put everything back together, put all my tools away, and then wash my scoot with soap and water and dry it as it got really dirty (no rain here, things get dirty fast in summer). Anyway, I was too tired by the time I got back to take the seat off and re-install the barrel/cable, but pulled the barrel under the panels and it popped open, relief! My low back muscles were still sore today!
One funny thing you mentioned above as well is the doing things in the right order, etc., well one thing I noticed when I took off the seat tonight is that I was able to easily put the cable back into the bracket tonight, and was also able to easily take it back out of the bracket for some reason, but it used to be next to impossible to do so, first time it took tremendous force to get it out of that bracket and extremely difficult to put in back in place. One other thing I figured out is that already the plastic wells where the seat goes into place already look warped/sunken from being torqued down with the ratchet, so got smart and just used my hands to tighten down those 4 bolts, less torque, so that should help the cheap plastic wells. Btw, the left upper panel piece broke in half when taking it off last night, but used that plastic welder you recommended and it seemed to hold when I re-assembled that panel, plus didn't use as much torque with the screwdriver on those panels too.
Oh, besides probably having that idle mixture screw set too rich, too far out, which could now be the hesitating problem off the start, I also had another dunder-headed incident in the rush to put the scoot back together. I had it up on the jackstand in the driveway here for most of the job, but my flashlight batteries were going a bit, so dim, so here there are good night lights in the driveway, so I turned the scoot to the side so I could work by these lights and see inside the carburetor area, so when putting it back together, I put on the lower side panels towards these lights one at a time, but noticed with was a hassle moving it on the bricks, so just had to put on that back small piece over the tail-light, then the front part, then seat and floor mat, so almost done, so got tired of moving on the jack stand and put on the kickstand instead for the last side panels,...anyway, as I'm trying to put on that tiny piece, I dropped a screw and couldn't find it due to the rear wheel being in the way, so pushed the scoot forward and for the first time....since having huge troubles getting the scoot out of that big steel rack from the factory (really could have used your uncrating the scoot video, much easier in a tight spot in storage)...well for the first time my kickstand went down suddenly from my pushing in the seating position in frustration of the lost screw and down the scoot went!
Anyway, picked the scoot up, found the screw and simply put the kickstand down again and was more careful this time when putting in those 2 screws. Then it was a breeze finishing putting it back together, but still had to wash it and dry it, so took a bit, the grocery store closed, scoot going very slow, very frustrating last night!
I didn't notice though until I set out to try and make it to the store that the thing that broke the fall was my left brake handle, the tip broke off, about a little less than 2 inches of it. What do you think that is made of? It looked almost like it had mortar in it and it's definitely made of very strong materials.
I don't want to replace the handle unless it's very cheap and thinking maybe if I figure out what it's made of I can glue it back together. What do you think? I'm nowhere near affording to buy that Aprilia SportCity 250cc scooter, nor ready to go through the process of getting my motorcycle license, but my aims are more towards getting that new scooter as I know that will give me more than enough horsepower, will accelerate sufficiently and at 90mph or I bet it can get close to 100mph with some minor modifications, so fast enough for me!
I'm still debating whether or not to do the 47mm BBK, but did get some good news in an e-Bay search, found new, maybe used?, gears for a 50cc scoot and for around $30 or so, so the entire re-build for 72cc is $100.00, which isn't too bad and would really like to try it, but nice that I won't have to do anything like that for the Aprilia 250cc scoot as stock it goes very fast.
Oh yes and one thing I thought is when my scoot went down for the first time, luckily not with me on it, only sitting on my butt pissed off I lost that screw!, I saw some gas spill and smelled gas, so maybe messed up the new carb?
PS: I almost forgot to tell you about the planned unsealing of that stock carburetor. My friend from church finally dropped off his drill to borrow and left me his big case of drill bits, an extension cord and his Makita drill. I set it up after getting off the stock carb and noticed right away the A/C drill had a lot of power, but my small, short drill bit to take off whatever is holding together the float...well it only stuck out about an inch maybe from the chuck, plus it was really old (mine seems new from 1999), and my hole puncher worked fine for the indentation, but when I tried to drill, his drill didn't turn my drill bit at all, but made lots of noise anyway. It could be his tiny drill bits are simply longer than mine, but my drill bits fit fine in my cordleess Makita drill, just no power in mine. My neighbor who works on his own motorcycle also let me down and didn't drill the holes for me when he nodded the week before he would help, C'est la Vie!
Anyway, in the interim, I saw a used Makita drill with 2 chuck keys for $16 on eBay, but the seller only took Paypal bids and only 12 hours for the last bid, so lost that one, but since then got a refund delivered electronically from the seller of my starter relay, wrong part electrically, so now I'm signed up for Paypal for the future.
After the used drill idea didn't work, I looked online to see if anyone knew how to 'fix' a Makita drill charger and found a video and a site with pictures and the latter guy's fix was a new switch and my friend who now works on computers in San Francisco has done soldering since we were kids, so saw him on facebook and got some help from him. Anyway, I took apart my drill charger while chatting with him and noticed that the entire circuit board looked new, except for the heat sink with the switch, which looked whitish and like the switch had an overload or something, so this guy online saying the switch is usually the first thing to break seems right. He got a broken Makita drill charger at a garage sale and fixed his 'older' one by replacing this switch with a replacement from Fry's Electronics, his was different and has a fuse, but mine has a circuit breaker I think. Anyway, his switch is a C4161 replaced with a NTE switch from Fry's and called our closest Fry's in Manhattan Beach and they said they had NTE parts, so I ordered a new Soldering Gun last week on eBay and it came Thursday.
My old buddy gave me a few tips on soldering, but I'm going to look online for some how to solder websites and see if I can get some more instruction. My first search turned up a bunch of sites and probably some good sites on there somewhere. All I have to do now is open it up again (saw this circuit breaker thing with a button, so thought maybe by pushing/clicking on it, thought it might reset it and work again, so put it back together, but still didn't work)...take off the one screw, then solder off the old part and head to Fry's to try and match up the right NTE part.
Anyway, the guy online said once I put in his new switch and some pookie, I think he called it that, on the backside of the part on the heat sink, his charger worked perfectly, so hopefully I'll have a new drill, think I'll just use the tapping handle for my screw extractor set and forget about getting a new chuck with holes for a chuck key and make do with a fixed drill. The drill works fine for drilling jobs, so good enough for now. I'll be pretty impressed with this guy online if my drill charger works with a new switch and that seems to be the one broken part. His part cost under $5.00, so if it costs the same for mine, it will save me $100.00 as that is the cost to get a new Makita drill charger for my specific drill, which sounds about right because I think I paid around $300.00 for that drill in 1999.
chris962 Good luck with the drill. I hate repairing electronics and tools and generally don't do it. I won't give you soldering tips because I'm not great at it, but I also looked around online some time ago for some pointers and I know there are good ones out there. I could solder and make things stick, but the trick I had to learn was how to not make it brittle so connections hold up better. Not sure that applies so much in a circuit board, but it's good to know for wiring.
***** Thanks Brent! Yeah, that sounds like the realm of a licensed electrician and specialized wiring and that takes a long time to get good at I bet, but the heat sink above the circuit board and three pins into the circuit board doesn't sound like a tough job to me, solder the old pins loose to get out the old part, get the new part and some pookie or some sort of grease for the opposite side of the heat sink to hold the switch in place and do a good soldering job to hold the 3 pins of the new part in place and it's done other than screwing in one philipse head screw back onto the heat sink 'after' the three pins on the new part have cooled off for an hour or two. Easy.
chris962 PS: No ideas on how to repair that inch or so piece of the left brake handle to make it whole again? I'd think the right sort of adhesive would hold that brake handle in place for pretty cheap. Thing is I don't know what it's made of, I guess I'll bring the broken part to the hardware store, they might know what the brake handle is made of.
How can I send you a pic of the issue I am having trying to find where a little part goes in the carb/jets?! HELP!
If you need to post pics, join the forum at 49ccscoot.proboards.com
There are pics here that you may find useful. It shows jet locations for various carbs.
www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html
Hey Brent! I'm house-sitting near Griffith Observatory in the Franklin Hills area and noticed something when I took a new route to UCLA via Los Feliz Blvd., which runs alongside the Griffith Observatory parkland site. This route exhibited evidence that I might only have a 49cc engine and 'not' a 63cc engine. I made this right turn up a super steep hill about 50 yards long and noticed that my scooter barely made it up the hill! I literally was going so slow that I nearly had to get off the scoot because there wasn't enough speed to balance the scoot! I thought I'd have to get off the scoot and walk it up that hill at WOT!! I know this could be part of the problems with the new carb, btw got a full refund sent yesterday to Pay-pal, and/or also a problem with the clutch spring, but my guess is that with my 195 pounds and a backpack of up to 15 pounds of extra weight and maybe 5 more pounds in the storage under the seat, so maybe the 49cc just can't power that nearly 220 pounds of weight up that hill!
Anyway, now that I have the refund, I can order that new Kei-Hin carb and hope it's trouble-free after I install it and be careful to 1. install it in the right order and 2. make sure I keep it off the ground and not on the kickstand. But, after that's done, I'm going to put in that BBK for 72cc's of power and get some slightly taller gears.
I pasted below the 47mm BBK for $60.00 and think you saw it before and thought it was okay, but pasting a new set of Malossi gears as well as the price on these on eBay is good at about $46.00 with shipping included. I haven't opened my new cordless electrical impact wrench, but will have to do so after getting that big crescent wrench at Harbor Freight to get off that clutch spring, so I can inspect the variator, variator weights, clutch, clutch springs and also count the number of teeth on the gears, so I know what I'm dealing with before figuring out what sort of gears I should buy on eBay.
At any rate, if I'm dealing with a very fast 49cc engine, it should run much better once I finally get a new Kei-Hin carb and install it properly, but if I only have a 39mm piston/bore/cylinder, then the 47mm BBK really ought to give me a big boost in power and acceleration, then hopefully I can get a good deal on slightly taller gears too, so a little more top-end speed too!
Btw, I noticed that after my scoot warms up, I don't have trouble with idling speed, but when it's cold, it starts okay and sounds good, but after up to a minute, it nearly dies if I don't give it some gas from the throttle, so unsure, but think that means there's a problem with my enricher on this new carburetor, besides the major problem with the jet needle, needle jet and/or throttle valve. Hopefully, I'll finally get lucky and get a good Kei-Hin carb like you installed on your scoot, should fix all these problems.
Have you ever run into any problems doing a BBK? It seems like a fairly straightforward process to me from the videos I've seen, but maybe a little tricky when installing the new piston rings. It seemed like one could mess that up! The other steps in the process seemed fairly easy though. Installing the new gears also looked easy, but have to select the right gear set to go with the BBK.
www.ebay.com/itm/181058225037
www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-MALOSSI-GILERA-PIAGGIO-Gearbox-14-39-teeth-Primary-DRIVE-GEAR-BOX-RACE-/380937777246?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58b1a9305e&vxp=mtr
Mine has a Keihin and it's a pain with weather changes. It's either ignore it and just keep it running for a bit or drive myself nuts trying to tune it daily. Prob at least partially my fault for making the airbox more free-flowing by removing those "restrictors". More flow tends to make them respond more to any sort of changes.
I've had cylinder studs snap doing a big bore kit. Not much you can do about that if you are using proper procedures and torque specs. Have to deal with it and chalk it up to junk basically. I've had pistons hit valves when clearance wasn't checked. That will only happen with kits where the valve cutouts in the piston don't match the head, possibly a big cam, or if the stock flywheel is machined wrong so the timing is actually incorrect but looks OK.
Piston rings are not hard, if you take your time. Sometimes it's a little pain to get them compressed to start in the cylinder, sometimes it's not. The wrist pin circlips are probably my least favorite part. I suggest having a rag in the crankcase just in case those suckers fall or get loose so at least they can't end up in the engine so you have to try and fish them out.
Don't buy those gears. You will need to get gears for a 139QMB. Those are for a Piaggio 2T engine. The BBK looks OK.
Sorry I haven't done the stuff I was hoping to on the TaoTao project yet. Nothing has worked out as I planned with my 2T and there have been health issues with all of my close family this summer. Still hoping to get to it. Just now finally working on editing a very long video on the 2T CVTs. If it's not snowing by the time that's done I'd like to at least get something done with the TaoTao. lol
***** Yeah, when I watched that video I thought to myself that I'm not removing the air restrictions on my scoot and also noticed you started running lean once you removed them. Can you put those restrictions back in, or did you throw them away? Sorry to hear about the health issues in the family.
Don't worry, I didn't plan on buying those gears, but did notice the price was right, whereas a lot of new gear sets are around $80.00 and too much money to put into my scoot, but $30 to $40 on eBay for a gear set is okay. I can't even shop for a gear set yet because as you said, first I have to open up the old gears and count the teeth on there, plus know the stock sized piston/bore, and how a 47mm BBK will effect everything, only then can you know the right gear ratio upgrade for my planned BBK.
Thanks for the tip on putting the rag in the crankcase, one of the videos I have on doing a BBK is by a guy suggesting, to do just that...maybe you?....LOL!
Btw, you didn't comment on my scoot being nearly unable to go up a very steep hill in LA. What do you think about that? That seemed like good evidence that I'm possibly only working with a 49cc engine, which would be nice because there would then be a big increase in power to a 72cc BBK.
I could put the restrictions back in. I'm just leaving them out for any future mods in case it needs the airflow at some point.
www.partsforscooters.com/?partner=49CCSCOOT sells gears for about $55 in multiple ratios and myself and others on the forum post discount codes whenever they come up so sometimes you can get 10% off. There's a set here for $40 and sometimes they'll sell stuff in their eBay store slightly cheaper. www.scrappydogscooters.com/139QMB_50cc_Performance.html
On a steep enough hill even big bored scoots could struggle. Hard to know.
***** Oh, I see your reasoning now. You're a big mods kind of guy, but I only do mods that will give me some extra power and speed, not really into any other mods though as I don't like messing with things unless they're broken.
Thanks for the link on those gear sets, the latter sounds better, cheaper, and yeah eBay has some great deals on gear sets, but like you said that first example was no good for my scoot, but showed I didn't have to spend $100!
Yeah, hard to know, but perhaps a sign I have a 49cc scoot, but won't know for sure until I get that 47mm BBK, take it apart, and get out the ruler.
Btw, that Aprilia Sportcity 250cc scooter probably isn't going to struggle at all, not even on that very steep hill! That day was funny, I thought I was going to have to get off the scoot and push it up the hill, seriously going so slow I almost lost my balance, so nearly not moving at all! I'll bet once I get that Kei-Hin carb, the 47mm BBK, and some new taller gears, my scoot will handle that steep hill just fine, not like the Aprilia though!
Oh yes and nearly forgot to ask follow-up on that BBK...What size pilot jet and main jet would you recommend on that 47mm BBK? Do they sell Dr. Pulley sliders on that site where you got the 4.75g variator weights? I remember from your video the comparison of the various weights for your scoot and that weight seemed good for your scoot and want high rpm's for my scoot with the BBK! I may not be able to get that 81cc BBK due to too much power/size, but want to get the highest rpm's, or speed/power, for that 72cc BBK! I still won't keep up with many cars here in LA, but that 72cc BBK will do much better against all these cars with such high horsepower in comparison.
The 250 shouldn't struggle on hills unless you're at a good rate of speed, going straight up, or towing a trailer. lol
As always, I suggest a jet kit and tuning. ;) Stock airbox I guess 85-90 main? Unrestricted maybe 90-95? Pilot I guess 32-35.
Not sure if they sell 4.75g. I mixed 4.5g and 5g sliders. The BBK may like heavier weights. With more power at similar RPM I tend to need more weight.
Shoot just lost the little white plastic piece from top of carb maine needle where can ai get one or what is it called?
PartsForScooters part 151-180
Thank you, upon further research realized that this model carb is screw in type so no white plastic piece, but pretty sure there is a small rubber oring missing that sits under the needle. Do you know the part number for that? If it was missing would it cause the scooter to run poorly?
It may cause problems without that o-ring. Maybe you could find something locally at a hardware store? I don't know that they'll go that small though. I'm not too sure where to buy just the o-ring. There are rebuild kits on PFS and eBay that include them. They end up around $20 shipped on PFS so check eBay listings.
Didn't have any luck at the parts store gonna try getting a better carb and replacing the knock off one
where do you get the aftermarket carb?
Mine was from an eBay seller that no longer carries them, but other eBayers have them or you can google it and something usually comes up.
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Where can you buy a reliable kei hin carb? I'm assuming ebay probably has a lot of fakes on it....
Not sure. The place I got mine isn't around now. It doesn't have to be a real Keihin. Honestly a Chinese carb that is not sealed works fine.
I need to buy a new carburator where can i find the exactly one? please is urgent
You can find similar stuff on eBay usually. The seller that I bought from hasn't had them for a long time.
***** thank you for answer, any other carburator for 30$ around that fits same as this one?
You can find quite a few of them for around that price. I don't recall hearing about anyone buying a carb separate and getting someting sealed and without the ability to put the needle clip in different spots. ebay and amazon should have tons or you can use scooter parts sites and find them at reasonable prices.
I would recommend cutting a slot with a Dremel tool and using an impact driver and slot bit, not trying to drill, you are steady enough to drill, 99% of viewers aren’t and will walk off center and ruin carb. I also replace junk Philips heads with Allen sock head cap screws.
To me, drilling seems easier than slotting where there's nothing sticking up. That's a good method too though, if you're more comfortable with it. I think that's easier when there's a head left so it's not flush like the bowl screws in mine.
@49ccScoot do it the way it works best for you for sure, your videos are proof that you have the experience and knowledge to do so.
So I cant for the life of me find a pd19j anywhere, 18's galore but where in the hell are the 19's. Theres some on ebay with the black top and stampings you show here but they are 18 dollars shipping from China so they cant be legit. Can you link me where you get yours from, also made a post on the forums about this just now, thanks!!!!
The seller that I got mine from is not selling anymore. They seem to come and go. 02starrider on eBay has been selling carbs for a while. Not branded Keihin, but honestly I think a lot are ripoffs anyway. The main point is to get a carb that is not restricted by non-adjustable bits in 18-20mm. Maybe lean toward 19-20mm if a BBK is in the cards.
any 2 stroke scooters
I have some, yes. Check my other vids. I don't have a PDI on one. Same basic idea as this. Only difference would be in engine specific parts. Instead of an oil change like the 4 stroke, I'd drain the oil in the reservoir (if it came with any) and add a good 2T oil.
sigh, thank you anyway!
4:55
Hi Brent! I finished class and still don't have that scooter running right. I had a problem with the intake manifold, so have to buy a new one. What do you think of this one? It looks like it doesn't have the nipple for the petcock valve, but I'm not using a petcock valve anyway, so shouldn't matter, but want to make sure it's the correct part.
www.ebay.com/itm/50CC-GY6-SCOOTER-MOPED-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-QMB139-TAOTAO-CPI-ROKETA-WILDFIRE-/261482025207?hash=item3ce18b10f7&vxp=mtr
Thus far, I've got it started twice with the Chinese carburetor and once with the new Kei-Hin carburetor, but with the new one it only ran when the throttle was applied and stalled every time when I let go of the throttle, pretty sure a pilot jet problem. I was lucky and the tool shop had a pair of vise-grip pliers, so tried your trick and got off the one stubborn screw at the top of the Chinese carb so I could inspect the top of it.
I also took apart the Kei-Hin carb and noticed the #85 main jet looked clear, so re-installed it, but the pilot jet was sooty black, couldn't see anything through that hole, so showed it to my motorcycle professor and he cleaned it out with a guitar string, then I cleaned the small inner hole with carb cleaner and also the two bigger distributor holes at the bottom of the screw, then re-installed it. However, when I tried to spray some starting fluid into the back of the carb, I noticed that while there was some fluid left, it was only dribbling fluid, not spraying it, so remembered what that guy said about pouring a tiny bit of fuel directly into the combustion chamber of the head, but of course forgot to turn off the shut-off valve and made a little mess, then poured some gas into a plastic bottle and into the top of the head, but was overzealous and nearly poured the gas into the top of the head, way too much, then tried cranking it and the engine starter motor really struggled at first, felt the starter motor and it was really hot, plus the battery sounded low, so brought it to the tool shop to get a car battery charger to hook up directly to the electrical connections without using the scooter battery, then tried spraying some brake cleaner instead of starting fluid.
However, while it got freed up enough in the combustion chamber that the starter motor didn't struggle so much and wasn't hot after cranking, it didn't sound like it would turn over either, so called it a night and got some starting fluid the next day at Pep boys, then tried starting it with that car battery charger again on Saturday during class, but before doing so I noticed that the carburetor was slipping right out of the intake manifold, then noticed that the seal had broken, so needed to be replaced, but wanted to see if the cleaned out pilot jet would allow the scooter to idle properly, so I could finally test drive the scooter with the new engine, but I guess between that residual gas above the intake valve, plus the highly combustible starting fluid just sprayed into the back of the carb, it made a noise and then started a fire! I put it out with some bottled water I had in my backpack, then checked the damage to the surrounding wires and new Tygon hose by the nipple of the carb and the damage wasn't too severe and not a problem, no leaking gas, but think I'll pick up another foot or two of Tygon hose and replace that one small piece of the fuel line anyway.
Ar any rate, that fire lesson demonstrated visually what actually goes on inside the combustion chamber, so that was pretty cool, but hoping that small flame out didn't cause any further problems inside the carburetor, but spoke with a more handy friend, who came in to help my friend work on some transmission problems on his car, the guy who started my scooter the first two times, and his friend said that due to all that black soot inside the pilot jet of that allegedly new Kei-Hin carb, he said he thought that the owner of the carb had rebuilt the carb and sandblasted it, so he said that once I got it started again that I should rev it up to WOT and put a clean rag over the back of the carb to cause a vacuum seal and cause I gather the inside of the carb to back up and flood the inside of the carb with gas, so as to clean out any remaining soot inside the carb from this sandblasting of the carb during the rebuild. He said this ought to clean it out enough for it to function properly.
Btw, regarding the older Chinese carb that idled okay and did okay at WOT with the old engine, my professor checked the diaphragm that he thought was causing the problems in the mid-range whereby the engine would fart, hesitate, and run very poorly in the mid-range area until it somehow worked itself out at WOT and started running properly at WOT by picking up more speed. Anyway, he inspected the diaphragm, the jet needle, needle jet, and also checked on the bottom of the carb, the 'accelerator', which I didn't even read about when studying how carbs work. He said everything looked fine with the Chinese carb, but something was wrong in the mid-range when I used that carb with the old engine for several months.
All I know is that carb worked fine when idling and after a few seconds of reaching top speed at WOT, it ran okay, but in between it ran horribly, no power, no speed, bad acceleration. In addition, that carb basically had 'no' mid-range at all because I only used it for going slow in back alleys like the house I used to live at, but on the open road, I basically went from idling to WOT right away and 'still' couldn't keep up with cars. Who knows what the problem was there, but just opening up the top of the carb and the accelerator may have fixed something in that carb, but hoping to use the new Kei-Hin carb once I get the engine to idle properly, so the Chinese carb only a backup.
Thanks for all your help and after I order and install that new intake manifold, maybe I'll finally have some good news to report on the new engine, like breaking it in finally! I can't believe all the troubles I've run into with this new engine, but one thing is clear, my professor said it sounded like a fuel delivery problem and those two carbs both had fuel delivery problems via different problems in both of them.
How is your Taotao scooter running lately? Any new videos and/or projects on it? I hope all is well in Maryland. Btw, I might just run the new engine with that 64 mm head for the rest of this year once I get it going good and running reliably as I'm sick of the thing breaking down on me, too many problems the past 9 months! I figure you're probably right and it will run well with those 64 mm valves, but I just didn't like the sound of that new engine with the smaller valves, doesn't sound the same. But, I do believe you that it will run okay with that smaller head, still think the 69 mm head is a much better quality head, but I'd have to tend to removing that old head with that one side bolt broken in half at the threaded area of the bolt. Once I got that bolt out it would be no problem putting in a new 69 mm valved head, but getting that broken bolt out of the head sounds like a hard and annoying job and tired of that after 9 months! I just want to be able to ride my scooter with the new more powerful engine, swap that new seat for that one seat broken in the middle, replace that scooter brake handle that broke, again, and then fix the speedometer that broke one of the last times I rode the scooter with the old engine out in North Malibu and the mountains where that old engine couldn't move at all up some of those steep hills! Hopefully, that new more powerful engine gets me up 'all' hills more expeditiously,...and up all steep hills! I don't know how much better it will perform, but mathematically it's a big power increase!
Oh yes and one good thing about that flame-out is that I got a much better understanding of what one means when saying I have a 'fuel delivery problem' as now I understand the entire route the fuel-air mixture travels through on its way from the gas tanks in our respective Taotao scooters right into the combustion chambers. I never really thought about 'how' that fuel-air mixture travels down that intake manifold and through that opening intake valve prior to arriving in the combustion chamber, but that flaming up engine really drove home what was going on inside the long sort of tunnel.
chris962 Hey. Once vacuum port on that intake is enough. You can T it off if the need arises for another vacuum connection.
It sounds like you are about there but need some carb tuning.
The TaoTao is basically alright. I need to do some tuning. Gotta get an update together. The weather hasn't been cooperative. Last week in the 60s for daytime highs, this week 80s-90s and humid. This is why I haven't been active with it. It's hard to be consistent when it's like this.
***** Wow! That is inconsistent weather! It's been mostly cooler in LA lately, upper 60's to low 70's, but supposed to hit 81 today and saw the graphic said it could possibly rain! It's unusual for it to rain at all in LA from March to November every year, so a couple rain storms in May is weird, cloudy and possibly rain twice in June, really bizarre! I heard in Austen, Texas they had a drought from 2008 to 2014, with the worst year inn 2011, but now Lake Travis is flooding this year, nearly dried out in 2011.
The 'only' vacuum port I would ever need with my system is for the pollution control equipment, one hole, and with my current 64mm valved head I don't even need that one hole and could plug it up, take off the pollution control hoses like on your video, etc., as the head itself has no port to that metal tubing that leads to the pollution control.
I know I told some friends that I think I may have fixed the scooter 'before' that flame-out, but didn't have the starting fluid, then the broken intake manifold, then the flame-out, so just a couple weeks of everything just going wrong, whatever could go wrong, did go wrong. The motorcycle professor said to try a motorcycle salvage yard for it, didn't have an intake manifold, found that good one on ebay for $6.50, but wanted to get it fixed before classes were done to see about getting off that broken side bolt, so timing was important and couldn't wait an entire week for delivery, then that salvage yard gave me another number for a scooter shop near them in Chatsworth, called them and said they 'may' have it, but to bring in the old one to match it up,...big increase in price though to $20.00...then a friend said to try a salvage place in Orange county, Stanton, called them and didn't have that part, then was running late, so figured I'd do a dry run out to Chatsworth to see if two trains and a bus would get me there, two hours, was closed at 6:00PM allegedly, got there at 6:30PM, so figured I'd try earlier the next day, got there a little before 5:00PM, bear in mind they're open till 6:00PM Mon-Fri. according to their sign, but not a single soul in sight, no cars, no one in sight in the back, closed for a long time, so went next door to a car repair shop and the lady there said they have strange hours, close at 3PM one day, 4PM the next, maybe 2PM the next...then headed back for the 2 hour trip back to LA and remembered the next day was the last Saturday for the class, so had to walk my scoot back!
That is some really bad luck! And neither the old carb, nor the new carb, ever had that new engine in the scoot running well. Being able to start a scooter by using starting fluid is 'not' a reliable scooter engine.
Haven't I already seen your carburetor tuning video? I think I have and carb tuning seemed pretty easy when I purchased that Chinese carb, it just ran horribly in the mid-range, didn't really have a mid-rang at all, then again part of that as I said earlier is that at WOT off the mark, the scoot with the old engine still didn't go fast enough to keep up with car traffic. The new engine, once it runs reliably, might be a different story and might do okay with car traffic, so might be able to tune the carb better. I still think my friend from class, his buddy, was right in doing that clean rag procedure to clean out any residual black soot inside the carb body from any sort of sand blasting technique to refurbish that old carb and sell it as 'new'. And that flame-out actually might have helped clean things up a bit inside the carb too, not sure on that one, but between the flame-out and new gas to clean the inside with that procedure, that Kei-Hin might work okay.
I really don't understand what the problems were when trying to start that scoot and get it running reliably in those two classes, but could be all the students hovering around the scoot confounding things. Then again, it seems to me I probably had two defective sorts of carbs, something wrong with the old known good carb when you idle fine, but hit WOT when a light switches and it takes forever for the engine to start putting out 'peak' horsepower and get you to your top-end speed.
Between whatever 'that' carb's problems were with the 'old' engine, combined with a new engine, which can't be fully reliable when the thing hasn't even been under a 'load' yet and still has strange smells from the new engine finally running, plus that initial 'smoke' for a few minutes when we first got that thing started with some starting fluid. Anyway, perhaps these are the two reasons the 'old' known good Chinese carb wasn't enabling the new engine to run reliably, no idea there other than those two possible causes,...but very clear why that new engine wouldn't 'idle' right in the third start with all those car repair students hovering around the scoot, and my car engine repair teacher assisting in that third start, maybe got it started 6 or 7 times that night, but every time I let go of the throttle it 'stalled'....although it's pretty clear now 'why' it stalled every time.
Anyway, that is why I said I thought I may have fixed my new scooter engine a few weeks ago...then 'everything' went wrong! I'll go order that new intake manifold on ebay now...hopefully all goes well there and I actually get the part in the mail in one week as promised. All I know is I'll be stunned if I just have to re-charge my new Walmart battery, install that new intake manifold, replace that one small line of Tygon hose that singes by the nipple of the carb, re-install that Kei-Hin carb, add some starting fluid, and the scoot just turns right over and runs fine, idles well, and then can take it off the jack stand after it warms up for 5 or 10 minutes and take it on its first test run down the street to break in the new engine.
chris962 I guess one bit of good news is you know one scooter shop not to deal with. Sounds like they're more concerned with putting money in their pockets and doing as they please than serving customers or fair prices. I always order intakes on eBay. Picking a US seller is not the cheapest way, but usually delivery is somewhat prompt. You can find stuff really cheap from China, but shipping times can be a month or more.
***** Yeah, that shop didn't seem like a good bet, and I wouldn't wait a month for scooter parts, so Chinese suppliers are out, one week is long enough, don't see how an ebay seller could screw up an intake manifold either, no reason to sandblast the inside of that, pretty simple design there.