TaoTao ATM50-A1 Chinese Scooter PDI Assembly Part 6 : Fuel Supply And Hoses
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- čas přidán 16. 06. 2013
- Part 6 of the Chinese scooter PDI assembly series shows how to replace the fuel and vacuum hoses as well as how to switch over from the stock vacuum operated petcock to a manual fuel shutoff valve.
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Parts/Supplies (Affiliate Links)
Tygon F-4040-A 1/4" ID Fuel Hose : amzn.to/3h0oxBT
Tygon F-4040-A 3/16" ID Fuel Hose : amzn.to/2UpxLOp
1/4" Visu-Filter Fuel Filter : amzn.to/2Uo0X8n
1/4" Fuel Shutoff Valve : amzn.to/30lkMB9
Hose Clamps : amzn.to/2Uk60Xd
Vacuum Caps : amzn.to/2Yho4Tn
Cable Tie Assortment : amzn.to/3f3321i
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More Info
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread...
#PDI #FuelSupply #ChineseScooter - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thank you , couldn’t get my new 150cc card to work on my bike this video explained it perfectly!! Compared to the other 4 I watched
great video dude, one of the best I have seen on this subject. Thank you
Thanks.
Dude this video saved me so much trouble thank you so much
thanks for this video I'm up and running now
Great info on all of your videos, thanks! 👍
Thank you. Glad the vids are helping.
I know it’s been years since you posted this video but you have no idea how long I have been trying to verify where all of the lines go an you were the only one to mention where the one from the valve cover goes.
Thank you. I'm installing a 72cc bbk and got stuck with putting the vacuum lines back together. This wasn't identical to mine since I don't have any emissions canister on my 2011 TaoTao Peace sports. But figuring out the one from the valve cover to the air box left me with only 3 questionable vacuum lines, and since I had a 3 way T, the remaining 3 obviously connected to each other. Got the old junker running again thanks to you. Liked and subscribed.
Glad it helped and you're up and running!
Great video thanks!
Thanks for your video's, Wow!
Extraordinary! Well done! I've been a mechanic for 35 years. These videos cover everything that the Chinese seem to not care about, I appreciate your time to get intensely involved with such a inferior product. Thank God we don't import cars from the Chinese yet.... Do they build cars? I wouldn't want to fly there jet fighters, ha ha.
Thanks! To be fair, China can put out excellent products. The issue is, they can't put out excellent products when we expect them to travel across the globe and wind up on our doorsteps for a price that wouldn't cover the routine maintenance cost of some name brand scoots if done by a dealer for a few thousand miles. $500-700 is next to nothing for brand new street legal transportation. Check prices on Yamaha, Honda, Aprilia, Piaggio, and Vespa 49cc scooters brand new. Definitely not getting one for $600. Many big names, like Yamaha and Harley for example, have parts made in China. They specify different quality materials and much more rigorous quality control though.
Very good info, thanks a lot
Thanks!
Great jobfreind
thank you
Hey Brent! I installed that new Visu filter last night and replaced the fuel line from the manual shut-off valve to the carb and used 5 metal clamps to tighten, so don't smell gas anymore and seems like it worked this time. I also got to the Makita service center, but they wanted about $60 or so for a new chuck and chuck key, plus they didn't have it in stock and would have to order it, so went with their advice of getting a Tapping Handle to use for the smaller screw extractor bits and got off the cap in front of the idle mixture. Surprise! There is 'no' idle mixture screw at all behind that cap, instead there's a little nub there that sticks out and seems like there's no way to adjust the idle mixture on this carburetor. In addition, the charger for my Makita rechargeable batteries is now broken and my last charge whereby 'one' of my two batteries held a charge was the last charge for it.
Thus, no way to take off those 5 screws and even if I do, I won't be able to probably tune the carb without that idle mixture screw. I looked online for cheaper new carbs and found one on eBay that was recommended, one with a plastic top like the Kei-Hin, and it's pasted below. Do you think that's a good one for our scoots?
www.ebay.com/itm/Scooter-Carb-Carburetor-50cc-Chinese-GY6-139QMB-Moped-49cc-60cc-SUNL-BAJA-/290866697014?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item43b9019336&vxp=mtr
I also cleaned up all the dust on my scoot (lots out here without the rain) and was able to get it started and checked my spark plug when I had trouble starting. The spark plug was dry and a perfect brown color, so spark isn't the problem. But, after revving it at WOT for a bit and turning it off, I smelled something a bit foul in the engine and seemed like the oil was no good anymore, so changed the oil and cleaned the oil filter at the church and it was running much better and started right up, but after riding through the USC campus on the sidewalks w/o my helmet strap on (could tell letting it idle for a second would cause a stall)...once again it stalled and had to push for about 20 minutes before it would start again, then got it started and luckily late at night only had to contend with one red light, so made a circle and got all the way back home with no stalls.
This definitely is the pilot jet and fairly certain when I took out the carb and turned it on its side to drill that cap to get at the idle mixture screw is what caused the blockage in the pilot jet and also is the reason it won't idle right since putting in the new starter motor. I asked the pastor if he'd ask a friend who works on motorcycles if he will bring over his drill to drill holes into those 3 caps by the float and two crappy screws on the gold top, so this way I might not be able to tune the carb properly, but I will be able to get out the pilot jet and main jet and clean both with carb spray and the former one will probably have some sort of blockage in it. This way the carb won't be tuned right and still might have problems with steep hills, but at least my scoot will idle properly again when it's thoroughly cleaned and therefore be a reliable scoot once again.
Maybe next month I'll buy the new carb when I've got more money, but at least if I get out those 3 caps and 2 screws, I'll have a carb that does okay again and can use my scoot once again. Who knows? Maybe by cleaning it thoroughly and inspecting the float, maybe my stock carb will work going uphills for the first time? If so, I'll leave the stock carb, do the BBK and maybe buy some used gears while I get my motorcycle license and the cash for that Aprilia 250cc scoot.
Tough times with this scoot, but pretty sure I figured out the stalling problem now.
PS: The first thing I checked was my battery charge with my new multi-meter from Harbor Freight tools and hard to figure out, but got it to work at I think DCV at the 200 volts range, whereby it measured at up to 12.5 volts and during cranking it averaged between 10 and 11 volts, so a good battery, just too tall to fit in that compartment with the top on, but figure an extra battery is good for troubleshooting my scoot and other scoots, so will just buy that new shorter battery at 3.3 inches tall and 4.5aH for the rainy season this fall, if I get the new Aprilia scoot by then and sell this scoot.
Thanks for reminding me to get that multimeter because it's invaluable when you have a no-start to know your battery has plenty of power when cranking, plus good to know that your NGK spark plug is dry and burning perfectly by the brownish color. It's also nice to be able to put $1.57 in gas to get a half-tank so you know you have good hi-test gas in there, plus new oil and a cleaned oil filter, so you know these things are 'not' the reason for the no-start, nor the reason for the stalling problems. All symptoms say the stalling problem is all due to one thing, a slightly clogged pilot jet, but 'still' can't get at it with two used up batteries and thus a useless drill, so no way at all to get at the carb jets until I get a new Makita charger, or borrow someone's drill.
Hey Chris. The carb linked looks fine. I think it's about time for one. Explain what's been going on to the bike mechanic if he will come out to help you and maybe he can fix you up. Most of the time it's much easier to figure out when you can see and hear what's going on first hand.
***** Thanks Brent! Yeah, it seems like it's time to replace the carb, but I have a friend from church who fixes motorcycles, or his friend does, so bet he has a drill, so I'd like to take apart the stock carb and see if I can fix it first and get it to run like before--reliably. Then, I'll get that recommended plastic top carb I showed you so I can properly tune all aspects of that carb. I figure I paid for those 5 machine screws, so might as well borrow a drill and troubleshoot that stalling problem and fix it, but I'd already say it's most likely the pilot jet. Which bike mechanic? I met this one guy in downtown LA and seemed like a nice guy, but he didn't know much about the engines on our scoots and they sell them. I've heard how my scoot sounds and for some reason nearly certain it's blockage. Btw, where do you think you can find good markets online for a used Aprilia scoot? A lot of sites for used Aprilia scoots are by sellers wanting nearly as much as a 'new' Aprilia Sportcity 250cc scooter, which is crazy if they've got more than 10, 000 miles and the scoot is like 4 years old.
You said a friend of the pastor would ask a friend that works on motorcycles to bring a drill so I thought maybe the motorcycle guy would be there, and if so it never hurts to tell him about what's up and maybe you can get someone experienced to have a look.
Most ppl I know of looking for used scooters online are just browsing craigslist and of course that's gonna have some good deals and some ripoffs. Takes time to find exactly what you want usually when not buying new or very common stuff. You can check around local motorcycle/powersports shops that have sites too. Some will list their pre-owned inventory online.
***** Oh, I see, well he's a friend of mine from church as well, but as I recall it's his friend that does the work, not him. Either our friend from church might have his own drill, or be able to borrow a friend's drill, but don't think the other guy would be there. This friend took my battery out of the box and charged it for the first time for me, via this friend. Thankfully I have the battery tender junior now, so can do it myself, but so far changing part of the fuel line and replacing with the Visu filter has fixed the gas leak problem, got the scoot started again and it runs okay other than when idling stalls right away, which simply has to be a clogged pilot jet, rather certain of it. Btw, I ordered that new carb with the plastic top tonight, the guy online said it's of a better quality. I just hope it has the idle mixture screw on it and more like a Kei-Hin carb.
Thanks for the tip on buying used scoots, I've met a few guys in local scooter shops, which sounds like that's a helpful thing now. Who knows, maybe I'll come into some money soon and just buy a new Aprilia down in Louisiana at that scooter shop that sells the Sportcity 250cc?
Does this work the same for replacing the (crappy) vacuum fuel petcock
when I have a T junction on the vacuum line from the vacuum petcock? One
leading to the intake manifold and one T off into the top of the carb?
Can I just cap off these 2 vacuum lines at the T and replace the vacuum
petcock with a manual fuel on and off? Or anyone else knows feel free to
answer please? I think the top of the carb is just a restricter? Want
some confirmation before I replace it in a few days thanks. My layout is
very similar to the GY6. Have a lexmoto Tornado 125 (aka Sanben Tornado 125)
for the fuel shut off I recamend leaving the one in place and use a splitter to alow you too add the manual shutoff as a secondary or buypass
+vorkev1 But if you have a problem with the vacuum suction it will not fix the issue.
Keith Mass I do not think you understand what I am saying
Mine had a green wire and black/white wire in that area. No connector, but they didn't go to anything. Not uncommon on Chinese scooters. Check my vid showing the PAIR system removal and see if the hose happens to be any of those. Check the intake, carb, and valve cover to see if any hoses seem to be missing. You can probably see about any hose that should be there throughout my PDI vids.
Hi, trying to find the correct fuel and vacume lines for my tao tao 50cc. Are the hoses you are using like the 3/16 fuel iline is it 3/16 id or od ? not sure which to get.
Thank you for you videos ,,,I have 150cc chinese scooter, running great, new carb, I decided to do an upgrade and add a uni intake, I used a custom raidiator hose to fit under the frame,and remove some emisions, and stock airbox, I changed main jet from 103 to 108 and no matter where I move the idle or mixture screw, it starts, then just dies and after 30 secs no warning, it gets very boggy on throttle and when I took it down the street it was not as fast and was a bit "chuggy" and "bucky" this happened with 100, 105 and 125 main jet, the vaccum hose from the manifold is connected the same and the PCV and the other emisions vent that were going into the old air box are just vented into the air and zip tied to the frame, do have any idea what happened? The scooter was running great before I did a few things, could it be the needle? what do you think?
great vid, but mine has a 4 line fuel cut off vacuum valve. What is the 4th line for?
Hey I need to know what size is the fuel line and vacuum line I need to change mine
Hey man thanks for video, just got my EVO50 today, you said in the video to use a shut-off valve, I found quite a bit of 1/4" but no luck finding a 3/16 ID valve, wher can I find the valve?? You have a part# or manufacturer?? Would Briggs and Straton work??
where i can get de hose like yours de green ones ?
Your videos have been incredibly helpful to me. Thank you! Where can one source those small worm-gear hose clamps. I just bought some that were size SAE 4, but those seem like they may be even smaller, and I haven't found any yet.
Hardware stores, auto parts stores, McMaster-Carr.
love your videos I have a question on my taotao atm 50 is it normal for liquid to come out of the intake manafold tubeing to the air box
No. See what kind of fluid it is. Should be easy to tell if it's gas or oil.
I would like to do this to my 150cc GY6 but it has two vacuum hoses that go into a T that leed to the vacuum petcock. Can I cap both those ports off and just have the gravity feed with a manual fuel shutoff? Thank you so much!!
There's no reason you can't use a manuel shutoff and gravity feed as long as the tank is totally above the carb. Rather than capping off at the T, see where the T goes and eliminate it if possible. Just make sure a hose doesn't go to anything else that you don't want to stop from receiving a vacuum source.
is that fuel line 3/16 ID or OD? I ask because a local store has the same line but the od is 3/16 & the id is 3/32? s this the same...i held off on the purchase
Hi, my TaoTao 50cc starts good but almost stalls when I am going to accelerate after stop light. I twist throttle back and forth several time to prevent it turning off. I was told maybe valves are not adjusted. I adjusted them on 0.004 but still I have problem. Do you think it is due to hoses and petcok you explained here?
Alireza Yami Did you ever fix the problem with your bike I have the same issue and I have to do the same thing
Hi tank you again four your videos, I tell you before my scooter Sym Fiddle version 1 from 1999 is cut off wheen I drive, now I find no petrol came out on line four the carburettor, I order a new vacuum wheen I fix on the new fuel vacuum I need to do anything or just connect the lines and start the scooter Maine tks Venancio Berenguer
Should just be able to connect it and start. I'd check the hoses over while you're at it. May take a few seconds to prime the carb and start.
Does having a manual petcock affect the fuel consumption compared to a standard petcock?
No. The engine isn't going to burn more fuel either way if each functions properly. It mainly affects reliability, because manual shutoffs almost never fail. Down side is the vacuum petcock works without user attention. You turn the engine off and it stops fuel flow. You would need to manually switch the other off when you park for max safety.
The two vacuum hoses that go into the T are a intake manifold hose and a carburetor hose. If possible, I'd like to plug the intake manifold nipple up and plug the carburetor nipple up and just have the manual petcock with the fuel line?? That sound good to you? Thank You.
Connect the carb to the manifold directly and use the manual petcock.
I kinda ran into the problem of my bike doesn't have any vacum petcock like yours, its kinda build into the bottom of the tank, it kinda does make it impossible to install a manual valve instead of the vacume one?
Yeah, there are many like that. You'd have to find a fitting that works or a manual petcock that matches the thread size. On my Tritons a forum member tipped me off that the outlet could be re-threaded to 1/4" NPT fairly easily. It's easy to find 1/4" NPT fittings and barbs here. Maybe something like that could work. You don't have to use a manual shutoff, I just prefer them for their longevity. Really don't need to worry about a decent manual valve going bad for a very long time.
if i removed the egr and plugged the other vacuum port can i run the 1 vacuum port into the overflow valve theres no port on the carburetor for vacuum if i remove the petcock what do i do with the vacuum line
Overflow valve? Just cap off any unneeded vacuum ports.
would this kind of fuel line set up with a manual fuel shut off valve work with a 2 stroke 100cc oil injected scooter? Oil line is completely separate.
+Giuliano Pizzo Yeah, I use the same thing on my 50-110cc 2Ts.
Can I do this to my 150cc Chinese scooter? Thanks for the help.
Yes. It should be pretty similar.
At 5:39, in the bottom right corner, what is the line just above the green wire? I installed a new carb and for some reason cant find where to put that line
On the left (as shown) side of the intake? That's a vacuum hose for the PAIR system.
Help!! My tank doesn'tseem to have a nipple. Icebear rocket 2022. The petcock has a big screw that screws over a male thread on the tank. Petcock has a long tube that goes up inside the tank from the petcock. I felt around for a nipple but didn't see/feel it. I'm saying all that to say I bought a manual fuel switch but it's just the switch. I need the one I guess that I saw on Amazon that has the switch with that five and screw attached to it. This sucks. I haven't ridden in weeks
That's another common style. I just check the thread size and buy a replacement that has a manual shutoff instead of the vacuum system. It goes in place of the original and the vacuum hose is capped off just like the vid shows.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/232109
Some people drill vacuum petcocks and then add a manual shutoff downstream.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/18187/vacuum-petcock-manual-conversion
So I understand that you prefer the manual fuel shut off valve but does that mean that I should use that instead of the other thing?
I have this scooter and I was told the problem my moped was having was the fuel being sucked in too much and possibly flooding the engine. They told me to buy the manual but I don't know what that means for me after I install it. Do I have to turn the knob each time I try to start my moped?
Hey. It sounds like maybe whoever checked your scooter out things that the petcock is a problem. They do malfunction at times, and could cause too much or too little fuel to be delivered. I like the manual shutoff because any decent one really shouldn’t fail. The down side is that you either turn it on and off as you use the bike, or if left on there could potentially be a fuel leak if the float in the carburetor sticks or something downstream from the shutoff ever leaks. Vacuum petcocks are very convenient, but more likely to fail at some point. I prefer manual, but probably the majority of scoots use vacuum because it’s so user friendly.
One issue here is that you would need to know if the diagnosis was correct to know if the petcock even has anything to do with it. If you have friends or family that have experience with automotive, motorcycle or even lawnmower engines, maybe you can get some additional help before spending money on anything? If it’s indeed getting too much fuel, it could be something like a float height issue. If it’s just poor running and someone thinks it may be fuel related, then it could be all sorts of things.
So I have an old siphon pump (a few years old, still in package) with clear line. Do you think this would be suitable for fuel line in a 150cc Lancer?
If it's a fuel siphon pump then maybe, but I'd go to a local shop and spend the $5 on new hose.
Which line I use on my tao tao is better I need help with mine it's not getting gas been sitting in garage for 3 yrs
I use Tygon F-4040-A like this (affiliate link) :
amzn.to/3e4pDf8
I put a 1/4 hose on vacuum line to big seems like getting fuel to carb but spark plug ain't wet it acts like it's trying to start but don't need help
If it's still the vacuum petcock, it will need to crank a little before it starts the first time. If any vacuum lines seem like they are too big, they may not be sealing and could be causing problems.
@@49ccscoot ok bro yea I put 1/4 line for gas and vacuum think vacuum line to big for that
sorry im new to scooters and working on engines. what does float adjustment mean?
thanks again
czcams.com/video/xBCzVg4kUN0/video.htmlm13s
I bought crate bike on the internet and it has been having issues. I had the shop clean the carburetor and it ran good for about fifty miles then would choke out going down the road and die. I cleaned the carburetor myself again today and there was black residue in the bowl and jets were clogged. Ran good for about 30 miles and is again starting to choke out. I am thinking the stock fuel line id deteriorating from the inside out from the gasoline. Going to replace them tomorrow. Do you think that is what might be causing my scooter issues?
That sounds like a likely culprit. I'd also advise checking out the fuel tank while you're at it and using a quality fuel filter that's clear so you can monitor it.
Great video, I have a chinese scooter with what appears to be EVAP system, I would like to remove it, put in after market air filter and do some tweaking, at the end of the video, what do I do with the vaccum hose from intake to the emisions canister and the vaccum hose to from the valve cover to the airbox? DO I just plug them up? So with any of these engines is just really,,,,gas tank, carburator, and petcock in the equation and all this stuff can be elimanated? TY for the video
For the most part. You only need vacuum running outside of the engine for whatever accessories you have, like the petcock. You do need to make sure that you don't block off the PCV, coming from the valve cover. That's for crankcase pressure venting.
so the vacuum hose can be removed if it has a manual petcock and no egr system as long as the crankcase valve is open
i have my egr removed with the vacuum port to intake manifold removed the only vacuum line is to the petcock if i remove the petcock where would i put the vacuum line can i just plug the line
Do you leave the fuel valve open when not riding or close it every time? Is it ok to leave it open all the time?
It's a good idea to close it when parked, but I leave mine open usually. If something is wrong with the float, it can let a lot of gas drain down and overfill the carb and it will end up in the airbox, ground, and possibly into the engine and oil.
My thought process is to leave the vac petcock, but to install a long enough fuel line that it could be bypassed if it fails.
That's a good idea. I'm so used to manual shutoffs, and I like how easy it is to drain the tank.
Where did you get the manual shutoff, my fuel line is 5/16 and I can't find one that size? Thanks
Mine is 1/4" and you can find them at local small engine shops. They would probably have 5/16" too. It's made by Briggs & Stratton.
Thanks for the help. Where do you buy the shutoff valve?
Small engine/mower shops may have them locally. Search "shut off valve" on eBay or add "stens" or "1/4" to narrow results.
How did you tighten the metal clamp for the Tygon hose to the carburetor? I got my Tygon hose at a lawnmower place and asked if they also sold the metal clamps, but the guy who owned the place said to just use a lighter to make it seal, so gave it a try, but there was a leak in the new fuel filter and took many tries to melt the hose enough to stop those leaks, plus I took apart the carburetor to try and get off that cap with a new screw extractor set, but forgot my Makita drill set doesn't have one of those things to tighten up the drill bit, so the screw extractor kept spinning, but didn't grab at that cap in front of the idle mixture screw. Nightmare! I also got that Defcon plastic welder at the hardware store, but didn't understand the directions, didn't see which side was the syringe and couldn't get either side to open. I tried my old factory stock spark plug too tonight, but still won't turn over and the battery doesn't have much power either, sounded like it wanted to turn over though. I at least cleaned up the exterior parts of the carb with carb cleaner. The two connected parts with Taotao written on them separated a few nights ago, so have to use the Defcon stuff to put it back together again. The first time I took off all those panels with plenty of light (working over at UCLA now with a flashlight, dark), I wasn't able to get off that clip held in the bracket, so left it on, (got the clip off tonight, but very difficult!, went back on no problem) left it on a few nights ago and it moved and broke apart, so gotta fix it. Anyway, was looking a video today on checking for spark, (thanks for link below, will look at it tomorrow) and noticed that besides trying a good spark plug, there's also a possibility that it's the ignition coil (magnet I think attached to that), plus could be the CDI and even the Stator, even heard of the solenoid and starter being a possible reason as well, think the Stator is by the magneto, or same thing, and by the flywheel. I might have to buy that BBK by 02starrider after all because that video by Matt of Rolling wrench checks for spark by using all the above good parts, but he didn't mention the solenoid, think that was the other video. I'll get that 47mm bore-piston for the BBK though and at least that kit comes with a new ignition coil and new CDI, so they could be why I'm not starting as well. Man was I pissed about my Makita drill not extracting that cap! I'll have to ask at the hardware store about that thing you buy that tightens up the drill bit on the drill, think I might be able to buy one. Oh yes, and man was I pissed that I couldn't tighten that screw on the metal clamp for the fuel line hose! I only brought 4 metal clamps to save money, figure it will hold by the manual shut-off, but might pick up the other two clamps tomorrow! Oh yes and pissed because I had the entire carburetor taken out and could have screwed on that metal clamp 'before' I re-assembled the carb. At least the re-assembly went okay, but really have to push and pull hard to get that carb back on the manifold and airbox hose!
The idea of open flame around fuel lines doesn't sound like a winner to me. It's OK with new lines I suppose if you're far enough from the tank and nothing upstream is leaky, but I would certainly not advise it after fuel has been in the system. If you decide to use heat, maybe a heat gun. A small hose clamp should be able to work on the carb, but you may have to flip/rotate it to get it pointed the right way so the screw isn't hitting part of the carb.
You can probably take your drill to a hardware store and get a chuck key that will work. If you have a few to choose from ideally see if they deal with Makita.
The Plastic Welder should be 2 syringes attached to each other. Should squeeze out even amounts and only cure when the 2 are mixed.
Solenoid or starter will not cause a no spark issue. They will only cause it to not crank over with the button. Plug, coil, stator, and CDI are the bits that will cause no spark, plus the kill switch or ignition switch if they're faulty or switched to off/kill.
***** I know! I went with the pastor of our church and was alarmed he would even suggest an open flame around the nipple of the gas tank, even though I drained most of the gas out of it as you suggested at the petcock hose into an old plastic gallon jug of juice that I cleaned out thoroughly. But, the owner and pastor said it made sense to use the lighter to loosen up the tight hose (Tygon hose was too tight to go over the Shut-off valve and filter) and the owner said once the hose was on the lighter could be used to form a vacuum. He was an older Asian, so his English wasn't so good, but understood what he was saying, but the Pastor later said he thought the lighter was only used to loosen up the smaller hose and that simply didn't work because all the areas were far too loose and would come off if I didn't melt them on to form a vacuum.
Ah, I didn't think of rotating the screw upwards to tighten it! I guess it all went downhill after I accidentally took off the old hose from the nipple of the gas tank and it started leaking all over, then had a hard time pushing the old hose back onto the nipple, gas got up the sleeve of my jacket, fell onto my sneakers as I sat on the ground, plus I had to bend over a lot that night to work on the carburetor and my back was killing me, stiff and sore! I guess my brain was operating well as I got more and more frustrated with my drill not working, not being able to understand the Defcon Plastic Welder instructions, not being able to take apart either side of the Defcon unit to see how it works, etc. Pointing straight up, the metal clamp might be able to be screwed onto the nipple of the carb. I was trying to screw it on with a screwdriver from my ratchet set at a 90 degree angle from the ground, plus I didn't have the right small socket and kit with me, but that small socket on a ratchet might make it easy to screw on that clamp.
Yeah, I'll ask over at the local True Value hardware store where I usually go for parts and tools. They have some knowledgeable staff and lots of stuff. They might have a chuck key for my Makita drill. I knew I had seen a chuck key at some point in my life on a Makita drill with a contractor friend I think.
Ah, I saw those two syringes, just didn't look like a normal syringe I've seen before when giving blood. But, even though I noticed those two syringes side by side, I wasn't able to open either one of them. How do you open them up? I got that part of the instructions whereby you pour out equal amounts from both of them to let them cure, but couldn't open that side, nor did I see a way to open the other side, so was totally confused!
And 'what' is the "paddle"? Is the paddle on the other side of the syringes? I could gather that the paddle was used to apply the stuff after it cured, but didn't know which side was which, couldn't open either side as well!
Aha! Thanks for the tip on the starter/solenoid as my engine 'does' crank, so that is definitely not at all the problem. I'm going over to UCLA tomorrow to try and take apart that airbox, take out the stock air filter, then clean that whole assembly, including the airbox hose, then re-install everything and let it dry for the day, this way "Air" will be eliminated as my starting problem.
Thank God I found that motorcycle repair guy quoting from this book from a Japanese motorcycle mechanic, something about Zen in the Art of Motorcycle Repair, so now know that there are only four elements as to why an engine won't turn over, 1. Air, 2. Compression, 3. Fuel and 4. Spark. I don't have to worry about # 2, Compression, because that is covered under my warranty and the scooter store will replace any defective parts and fix it for free with all labor and replacement parts figured out between the dealer and factory, but the other 3 elements are all my responsibility, so have to troubleshoot for all three of them before giving up and taking the scoot to the store and no sense in paying for parts to fix it when they'll pay for the parts and labor.
And thanks to your excellent video on fuel line replacements, I know I now have an excellent fuel line, just have to buy two more metal clamps and figure out how to install the five remaining clamps. Four of them are easy to do, but the carb posed a problem for me already and last time I was over at UCLA, I mistakenly thought a 13mm wrench would take off those screws below the headlight, but last time I took apart the tail-light, I must have used the 13mm socket and ratchet to get it off, next time I'll have the 13mm socket.
Thanks for the tip on the kill switch, but know that was turned to the "on" position because the engine does crank and attempt to start. It's also good to know that the cranking also means nothing is wrong with my starter.
At this point, it's my best guess that the CDI went bad, so it's not sending the right information to my ignition coil and spark plug, so that the plug sparks exactly when the piston is at top-dead center. If the CDI goes bad, the scoot will crank and attempt to turn over, but the spark plug will 'not' ignite the fuel/air mixture and therefore the engine won't turn over and won't enable to Stator, Magneto and Pick-up to thereby charge the engine and give full A/C power to the scoot, so the Regulator/Rectifier also won't be able to create an equilibrium between the A/C currents produced by the Flywheel and the other aforementioned parts beneath it, along with the D/C power being re-charged in the battery, which is why I think my engine sounds so sickly and weak.
It's an amazing thing that a tiny thing like the CDI going bad could cause so many other problems in the engine, but that seems to be the problem.
Btw, this issue isn't important to getting my scoot started and running again, but I'm not exactly enthusiastic with my stock CDI perhaps having a life of only 4 1/2 months. Aren't there better quality CDI brands out there?
I know Naraku makes a CDI, but I'm a bit wary of them as that brand of CDI makes claims about much better top-end speed, much better acceleration and from what I've seen in your video and graph when comparing a stock CDI to that performance and racing CDI's, I see no differences that are worthy of merit and worthy of spending a penny more for anything other than a stock CDI, which are rather cheap for our scoots. I heard on a Rolling Wrench video weird expressions talking about the virtues of Naraku's CDI, but their CDI might be like the ones you compared in your video, or negligible differences in these CDI's, but one thing that looks certain, the stock CDI starts better than the other racing CDI's and I'd rather have the CDI that starts the best.
On the other hand, I'd like to get a CDI that lasts for 1 to 4 years as opposed to my stock factory CDI that only lasted a little more than 4 months.
Chris Barron
The Plastic Welder I get just has a cap that you fold back and forth to break off, then save for capping it off again. Then the "paddle" is in between the two syringes on the other end and has to be broken off so the syringes can be depressed. You can use it for stirring and applying the Plastic Welder.
Stock CDIs aren't bad. If you can find a deal on one like $5-10 I'd just buy a couple of stock replacements. Myself and many others have CDIs that are a year old and beyond. Naraku should be a decent quality unit just judging from some other parts I have from them, but I don't buy the claims of big power from any CDI manufacturer. If you went out and bought a basically $300 MSD CDI and agonized over a custom timing curve, I still wouldn't expect you to go as some say 10% faster unless something was wrong with your stock CDI or it was limited... or you have some more extreme engine work that requires changes in timing.
I can't find this petcock anywhere, would be nice if you post where we can find those parts please
You can probably find the manual shutoffs in small engine shops and sometimes even the lawn and garden sections of hardware stores or home improvements stores. I've had no trouble finding them with a quick search on eBay. Try the term "briggs fuel shutoff".
Is it necessary to install a petcock at all? I think newer carburetors have a built in valve switch to block gas from entering the carb when the engine is turned off?
The float is supposed to stop fuel flow once the bowl reaches a certain level. That's all of the protection that most have. I can't speak for new carbs. Maybe they have a vacuum switch of some sort.
@@49ccscoot I emailed the carb manufacturer the same question and this was their response, "in theory,the inlet valve will shut when the moped is turned off. The actual situation may vary according to different engines, you can try it out, or consult local professional installation or maintenance personnel. Thank you! "
@@joesickinger Which sounds like they're saying hopefully the float doesn't stick and flood the engine and ground.
@@49ccscoot can you describe what the float is cuz I'm confused
@@joesickinger www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html#floatheight
Hi man. I converted mine to a manual on/off switch but seems like my scoot won't start? What i did is i left my vacuum petcock(that type which is bolted to the tank with inbuilt filter that goes in the tank) and i just covered the vacuum line with a vac cap and same with tge vacuum port in the carb. Set it up from the tank like on/off switch first then fuel filter next, then l8ne attached to the carb.
The petcock has to have vacuum to open. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/18187/vacuum-petcock-manual-conversion
@@49ccscoot hi man, i accidentally left the shut off valve on overnight stupid me. Will it have some bad damage on my 50cc 2 stroker? Will it flood my carb, airbox, and cylinder? So scared of permanent damage. Any advise how to reverse this? Thanks a lot
@@ninoechavez1402 As I said on the forum, it's fine as long as the float height is good and it seals. WOT for starting if it does flood.
I just watched this video again and thought it was a good idea, but had so many other issues to contend with, so didn't do it. I forgot about the vacuum idea from the petcock and thought perhaps after it wouldn't start, it lost that vacuum, so no fuel going to the carburetor maybe, so now it's time to troubleshoot, so might as well get that yellow hose, new fuel filter and turn off switch. Where'd you get all those parts? There's a Walmart on Crenshaw Blvd., but don't think it has a good lawn and garden dept. with things like that see-through hose, great for troubleshooting! And any ideas on how to change that hose from the gas tank without getting gas all over the place? Your scoot is right out of the crate, so no gas yet, mine has gas though. It looks much easier with no gas in the tank. Is there a place I can pick up the fuel filter, hose clamps, zip ties, on/off switch right at a store, or only online? I figure I'll get all those parts, pick up that kit for removing screws, bring my Makita drill and take apart that carb too to get at that idle mixture screw, take apart that idle speed screw and put some WD-40 on the spring for the idle speed and any connecting parts to it and see if I can put it back together and get it to maintain a constant idle speed. I figure that perennial problem with that carburetor since I got this scoot could have led to a vacuum leak in the fuel filter, the fuel line, or inside the carburetor itselff and perhaps that's why it's not turning over. That motorcycle mechanic I know thought my losing power on steep hills was due to a bad carburetor, but could also be a weak contra spring contributing to the carb problems. Anyway, I figure now is a good time to put in all those new parts as they're all cheap I bet, plus at least I'll be able to get rid of that petcock, so will know my new fuel filter is good and have gas going into the carb, tune that carb up right and get the idle speed screw working properly and maybe it will start up again? This same motorcycle mechanic said it might be a blocked fuel filter, no spark as you say below, or even a bad oil pump, but figure the right place to start is doing as you did and getting rid of the petcock and old hoses so I can see the fuel going through the line to the carb. Gee, I hope I can pick up all these parts at a local Walmart and/or a local scooter store. The store I brought the scooter at is far away from here! I'll tell ya, I can't figure out how this scoot started right up a week ago and ran great all the way to UCLA, then nothing.
See if you can find a real mower/small engine shop around. I don't think Wal-Mart would have the shutoffs, not sure about the fuel line either. A small engine place should have that stuff around other than maybe wire ties. Scooter shop may have it.
Put a clamp of some sort on the fuel hose before it goes into the petcock. Something like a pair of vise grips so it blocks the fuel off. If you ever do that to lines you're keeping, use a something under the grips to keep them from damaging the hose. Once the hose is clamped off, disconnect it from the petcock and position it over a container safe for fuel. If you're reusing the fuel be sure it's clean and dry. Then you should be able to unclamp and drain the tank before you start replacing hoses.
***** Yeah, I looked online for most of those parts and saw a scootdawg forum about vacuum leaks in the petcock, the guy did 3 petcocks and all failed, so a landscaper saw him with trying to fix his scoot and told him he ought to get a manual shut-off valve like you did, gave him the part #, so looked online and found a lawn mower repair shop nearby, so going there today to see if they have all these parts, black zip ties seem necessary to a landscaping business, so hopefully they have that too, plus that rubber vacuum cap. Now the only thing I need besides that is the screw remover kit and 5 new screws and lock washers at the hardware store. It seems Tygon hoses are the most popular for landscapers, so should have the clamps too. I don't know why my mind wandered the most drastic thing, bent valves, when it could be something much simpler like a vacuum leak! This guy on the forum said after doing the new hoses, filter and manual shut-off, etc., he noticed he had better play with the throttle, more engine power and even better top-end speed, so that seems to be the reason my throttle pulling has such a delayed reaction on the engine...seems like my carb is probably flooded most of the time due to this bad set-up with the petcock. Btw, I decided to get an Aprilia Sportcity 250cc scooter next, so only question is whether I can afford to get a new one by a miracle ($4,700.00 and you have to go to a shop in Louisiana!), or more likely saw a used one from 2008 with 5,100 miles and was asking for $2,000.00, so think I can get a used one like that for $1,400.00 to $1,600.00. That will certainly give me plenty of power as heard it can easily cruise at up to 80mph with a top speed around 90mph. I heard even these Piaggio scooters have optimistic speedos, which are so annoying! Speedometers don't have to have pin-point accuracy like a GPS, but their readings should always be very close to the readings for a GPS, or very accurate. The people making these scooters are nuts in thinking otherwise. A person wants to know their actual speed, not their optimistic speed. Anyway, I figure the only major difference between a black Aprilia Sportcity I saw in the 2013 model and our Taotao scoots is that ours is air-cooled whereas the Aprilia is liquid-cooled. This means I'd have to change the anti-freeze once a year like my old Toyota Corolla car and also learn how to maintain, repair and replace the centrifugal pump, which shouldn't be that hard to learn. Other than that, there are many design similarities between our scoots and this Aprilia, looks like all the panels would come off and be re-installed in a similar manner to our scoots too, but the major advantages I see with the Aprilia is that it has a rear wheel brake that is a rotor, pads and hydraulic system and in the front it has 'two' front wheel rotors, pads, etc., so it has twice the braking power in the front and I've heard that this results in the front end braking in a much more even fashion than on our scoots, even the Piaggio Tourer 250cc scoot doesn't have dual front brakes! This probably means that it will brake in the front more like my old Toyota Corolla, no more of that jerking in the front end when pulling the front brake like on our scoots. Well, at least I don't have that violent shaking anymore in my scoot's front end when I take my hands off the handlebars, such a mysterious sudden resolution of that problem without doing anything. Anyway, thanks again Brent, I figure I'll be troubleshooting that scoot first myself for the entire fuel line and carb and she might start right up when I'm done this time. Btw, when researching this issue, I saw a video by Matt from Rolling Wrench about petcock problems and he had clear fuel lines too, but put in a separate vacuum line to replace the old one, instead of the vacuum cap, and he said you had to watch for water in that vacuum line, so your solution and far better idea, or like I said earlier, a wise decision. I'd say that vacuum cap gets rid of the entire petcock problem. It's hard to imagine that my throttle might have normal play by simply installing new fuel lines, new filter and vacuum cap, and putting in 5 new philipse head screws on the carb, but without even messing with the carb, this guy said it did resolve his throttle pull problems. I'd say when I can't start my scoot at present, that like this guy's scoot in the forum, I could have fouled up the entire carb and that's the reason my scoot bogs down whenever it hits a substantial hill. I'm guessing that every time I hit a big hill, my carb was getting flooded by that stupid petcock and the flooding resolved itself every time I hit a straightaway, or downhill, by allowing the fuel to be burned in the engine properly! Anyway, I guess if a vacuum leak occurs in the petcock, I'd guess that would also cause a stifling effect in the engine and the engine attempting to turn over, but had no gas. I guess these two big jobs will take me several hours to accomplish, but after it's done right, it might just start up right away and run better than ever, like a new scoot! I'm sitting there getting all worried about shoddy rollers and a defective contra spring causing my bogging down on hills and simply might have been a crappy fuel line, petcock and unable to get at 6 critical areas of my carb! I remember too when first liking the Chinese scoots that a mechanic recommended taking out the stock fuel line and fuel filter and replacing it, but don't remember anything about putting in a manual shut-off valve. Btw, I found the shut-off valve you used online, it's a Briggs and Stratton, so a quality part. Oh yes and thanks for the tip on getting the gas out of the gas tank! I have a plastic gas container, 3 gallons I think, so that will do the job. I'm not so worried about the fuel in my tank though as it's Premium gas and the fuel in the church gas tank for our generator is the gas I first used when I got the scoot together to get it started, so that gas is fine too. After all, if my scoot is running properly and I have no vacuum leaks in my 'new' fuel line and 'no' petcock on my new fuel lines, plus a new filter, and I don't have any bent valves or other serious problems, I think 'all' these major problems with my scoot will resolve itself once it turns over again as once my scooter runs, it runs very well, and after I burn off one tank of gas, I'll put in some fresh Premium gas and the problems will all be solved, well all except putting new sliders, a new contra spring and new clutch springs. After reading about that guy on 'your' forum complain about his new 1.5 clutch springs taking too much throttle to get him started, I think I'll just use the standard 1K springs all around and just replace them all and get a good quality new drive belt and keep the stock one as a spare. But, I gotta buy a new giant Crescent wrench first to do that job. Another guy on another forum of yours pointed me to place I can get an 18 inch wrench for only $19.99, so that's a handy tool to have around and less than half the price of a re-chargeable impact wrench I found for $45.00 plus shipping. I don't need the impact just yet to take apart the variator and clutch, but it would be a much handier way to service the CVT.
The LC shouldn't be a big issue. I think dealing with a good brand that has good OEM parts should be nice, albeit more expensive.
The stuff about clutch springs taking too much throttle and so on is just more of why you'll hear me say the CVT needs to be tuned for the rider for best results. With a carb you tune it to work with the engine. With the CVT you need it to work with the engine, but some people prefer a different feel. I personally don't mind the stiff clutch springs and prefer whatever CVT setup gets me moving quicker in most cases.
hey frist off how you doing....? 2nd I followed your assembly part six PDI but i did one thing i did wrong..., i didn't put a (petcock) right after the shutoff valve entering the carburetor now it's having a problem with low idle i have to keep revving it to keep it on and yes brand new carburetor throttle linkage adjusted property not to bored you... everything brand new on the bike ..... so yeah I don't want to keep you for your daily life can it be that i did not put (petcock)??????
+Ronald Tirador Hello. I'm well, thanks. If you kept the stock petcock, there's really no reason for a shutoff. The only time you should use a shutoff is after replacing the vacuum petcock so you have a way to stop fuel flow. As long as you are getting fuel to the carb (if you used clear lines you'll see it), your issue should not be fuel supply related. Continue on in the PDI series and you'll get to adjusting the idle speed and mixture or you can look here : www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html#idle
whats a good quality fuel filter for a 150cc gy6 scoot?
I use visufilters. About any you pick up at a parts store or even wal-mart that are the right hose, prob 1/4" for the 150, and that you can see through should work fine.
Two questions, first is how does the manual petcock prevent against flooding while the moped is on? I know you run the risk of flooding the carb when the moped is off and the manual petcock is left in the on position? does it not flood simply because the moped is running? i guess my question is how are the manual petcocks different than lets say just directly overriding the petcock all together with a gas line from the tank straight to the carb? second question is how often should you replace gas and vacuum lines?
The vacuum petcock is basically and on/off switch for fuel that's on when vacuum is present (engine running) and off when it's not. The manual is just and on/off switch that you directly control. They do nothing to prevent flooding when the engine is running. The carb shouldn't overflow unless there's a float issue or flood the engine if it's in tune and the engine is in good condition. You should have a petcock of some sort for parking or for emergencies and they also make some work easier by being able to shut off the fuel before removing a hose, filter, or carb. Change them if they are no longer flexible or have any damage.
90GTVert do you have a website you typically order fom, I used Amazon and the hose clamps didn't fit the line despite triple checking the sizes and the fuel petcock came with a crack in it...
I pick hose clamps up from the local hardware store.
Are the fuel lines and vacuum lines the same tubing and size?
Some are, but you still need fuel and vacuum specific hoses. Fuel hoses can collapse under vacuum and vacuum hoses aren't meant for constant exposure to fuel. Vacuum hoses are usually a few different sizes.
Do you close the petcock when you turn the engine off? Or do you just leave it open all the time?
It's best to close it in case of a leak or float malfunction downstream that could cause gas to spill.
Ah okay thanks for the response! Love the videos!
Do you know where I can get the manual petcock in retail?
Small engine and lawnmower shops or sometimes other stores with lawn and garden sections like Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc... Also try calling it a fuel or gas shut off valve if you have to ask for help finding it.
How often should you replace a fuel filter??
I usually replace or clean them if there's anything debris in them. Replace if plastic ones change color. Some of the metal and sintered bronze really don't need to be replaced, but just cleaned. If the plastic ones seem fine, I still often replace them every couple of years.
Just ordered the same manual petcock. Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have to turn off the flow of fuel every time you cut off the bike? If not, I'd think you would end up with a pile of fuel under your scooter. Any experience with this?
I rarely turn mine off unless I'm working on something requiring disconnecting a fuel line or parking for an extended period of time (a week or more). The float should regulate fuel flow and not let let the carb overflow IF it's working properly. That said, I park on concrete in a garage where it's not a huge problem if it leaks. For safety purposes fuel supply should be off each time you park when indoors at least. Floats can malfunction seemingly randomly which may lead to all of your fuel draining. Could be a fire hazard or ruin what you're parked on or at least waste a tank of gas.
***** Just what I wanted to know. I don't see it being reasonable to flip the switch every single time you cut off the scoot. I'll go ahead and get this thing installed. Many thanks for your videos, they are very well done!
***** That's a good reason to eventually upgrade to a Kei-Hin carburetor if you ask me. I bet the Kei-Hin's float never malfunctions, not so sure on these Chinese stock carbs though, but if you put those 5 new screws on that stock carb and inspect the float, I think it will work well for a while at least, then at random fail.
Well what about that electric choke it will stay open or closed without vacume won't it??
No. It works based on heat, expanding and contracting.
@@49ccscoot ok thanks I've been working every day for 6 months on mine all my friends and neighbors helping,we cannot make it run
@@bobpatterson6897 See if this helps : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/647/start-troubleshooting
Hey i have a question. Whats the different between a 1p39qmb and 139qmb.
One of 'em's gotta P! :D
www.49ccscoot.com/faq/pmean.html
@@49ccscoot wow 😂
so I change my stock air filter to a foam filter
We just talked on the forum, but when I replace the back end of the scooter, is there anything I can do so I don't spill fuel everywhere?
Drain the carb bowl. If it's got the stock vacuum petcock, it shouldn't leak fuel after you do that unless you'll be tipping the scooter a lot with near a full tank of fuel. In that case, you can drain the whole tank.
And to drain the carb bowl I just unscrew the end of that hose with the spring around it? The one connecting to the carb
Right.
Alright all done. Found a place for body panels and I'm going to do a complete tear down. Using the scooter as a way to learn.
You sounds like a human robot it a nice video anyway
Brent, I was tightening a spark plug into a friends scooter and the thing broke off. It was an Iridium plug. How do I get out the remaining threaded portion? Thanks for all your excellent videos!
Socket won't fit over it anymore? How exactly did it break? I've seen porcelain snap before, but the plug would still come out with a spark plug socket just fine.
***** Everything came out except for the steel threaded portion. The point
***** Sorry, I hit the wrong key. The plug center or point came out as a unit leaving just the threaded ring, which is now hollow. I haven't looked at it with a mirror yet, but I'm hoping a reverse tap will screw right into the center of the ring. Then I should be able to continue turning to screw it out. What are your thoughts?
That's a new one to me. Guessing this was a stock Chinese plug? Sounds like your plan could work. Maybe a little grease on the tap in hopes of catching metal shavings and/or tape a straw to the end of a shop vac and stick it in the cylinder when you finish.
With the head removed, If you have any thread open on the head, you could probably stick a new plug in there, and screw the old thread straight through. Depends on your head though if the thread will go straight through or not.
will this work on a 2 stroke where the vacuum line is in the carb? i tried this but i keep flooding out the carb.
If you remove the petcock and it floods, the float either needs adjustment or is not sealing properly or the carb is mounted at too much of an angle. All of my 2Ts and this 4T use manual petcocks and I rarely turn them off. Are you sure it was a vacuum line. 2T carbs also have oil lines going into them in some cases.
*****
the oil line is on the other side of the carb. the fuel intake and vacuum are kind of next to each other. could messing with the fuel level screw on the carb do this? checking out that video now
There is no fuel level screw. Changing the mixture screw setting could make it run rich.
Hey, so I did this, changed the petcock to a manual one, and i'm getting over flow coming out of the bottom of the carb and literally losing all of my gas, how can I fix this?
Step one is to turn the petcock off when not riding. Then it can't lose any fuel from above the petcock unless it's defective. Next step is to check the float height and make sure the needle and seat are sealing. If the float height is high, it won't stop the flow of fuel.
@@49ccscoot Cool, will the scooter be okay if I don't mess with the float, and just turn off the gas?
@@duncan2290 It will be OK when parked at least. If the float is high, it could be overfueling when running.
@@49ccscoot Thanks a lot.
Question: I changed the fuel line, filter, shutoff & upgraded the carburetor following your videos. I had to reduce the fuel line from 1/4 to 3/16 after the fuel filter since where fuel line connects to carb is small and the 1/4 was way too big. 3/16 fits snugly on the carb but now when I go to start it, it struggles for gas I’m assuming. I originally had it running after all the upgrades but now it basically doesn’t start. Could reducing the size of fuel line be my problem? Seems like it’s wanting to start but not getting the fuel. Thanks
3/16" is plenty to supply one of these engines with fuel. It would be more likely that you'd find something pinched or a hose went in the wrong place... or it's something unrelated. If it's a fuel issue causing a no-start, it's probably not able to fill the bowl. As long as the bowl is full, it should start and idle for a bit even if there were no other fuel supply.
@@49ccscoot thx for fast reply. It ran fine after upgrades were done. I’ll dbl check nothing is pinched. I’m assuming when I turn the fuel shutoff to allow gas to flow, it should immediately flow so I doubt that’s the lriblem
@@49ccscoot how would I know if the Bowl is filling with gas?
@@49ccscoot sorry for multiples replies. There’s always a small amount of air in the full line in spots. Is this normal? If not is there a way to bleed the air. Maybe that’s part of my problem?
@@pujo28 Air bubbles in a fuel line is normal. If it's excessive and causes flow issues, that's usually due to not keeping it running downhill. Not normally an issue though.
You can open the float bowl drain and see how much goes into a small container. Doesn't have to be a precision measurement, but look at the bowl and the volume drained and hopefully it looks like at least 1/2 the bowl would hold.
What's the name of the petcock replacement part?.
Look up Briggs & Stratton fuel shutoff valve and what I used should come up.
stupid question: what size hose clamps do i need for a 3/16" hose?
Most of the time in an auto parts or hardware store you'll just be grabbing the smallest they have. Should use something that is capable of going down to close to 1/4" though.
*****
thanks
Will a 3/8 cap will work
Maybe you could clamp a larger cap on, but it's really best to get a size that's a good fit.
If I have a 2009 wildfire 150cc can I by pass the regulator and just cap off both of my vacuum lines becuase mine has two one on the rite side of the carb and one on the intake manifold becuase I can't get my bike to run at an idle only wide open if you have any other suggestions please let me know.
+2707danny 2 regulators? You may want to try posting a topic with pics on 49ccscoot.proboards.com and if I can't help someone will recognize the setup.
+90GTVert No it only has one regulator it has a vacuum on the carb and a vacuum on the intake manifold. Both those vacuum lines run to a Y spilt port and then run up to the regulator.
+90GTVert The only reason I ask is because my scooter will run wide open but not a idle if I cover the intake side of the carb it pulls enough gas to start and run but only at full throttle.
Some carbs need a vacuum connection.
Tried an idle mixture adjustment? Cleaned the carb and paid close attention to the pilot jet condition?
+90GTVert
Well I got it to finally run good when it worms up but once its cool and sitting for 30 minutes to an hour it bogs out and wont idle again im not really good with small motors could the valves or anything need fixed or would that be totally different symptoms.
What bout other side of intake there another air hose
czcams.com/video/ubUosWJUhM4/video.html
Could you show how to put disc brakes on the back of a scooter or let us know where we can get the parts
That's a good one. I've never done a rear disc conversion. Some guys on the 49ccscoot forum have used Aerox rear brakes on their Zumas, but that's about all I've seen any info on.
@@49ccscoot I have a standing 150cc that I would like to put a rear disc on I've seen the Zuma but is it different Honda Ruckus but it has a fat back tire in a big plate. The one I seen someone do they really did not show how really fast and no parts list it might be the old saying poop in one hand and won't in the other and see which one feels up faster.lol
@@wadebarnes6720 There were 150s that came stock with a rear disc. If you can find a parts supplier for one of those, then you could prob order the wheel, brake, bracket, and possibly any gear shaft or other parts with a difference.
What the advantages of manual petcok than vacuum in first start the engine ?
Manual will let the fuel flow as long as you open the valve. Should fill the bowl without any cranking to prime. Manual shutoffs rarely ever fail. Manual shutoffs reduce the amount of hoses. The main downside is that vacuum petcocks are very user friendly when properly functioning for day to day use. You don't have to remember to turn them on and off.
@@49ccscoot
The manual more faster in start the scooter ?
@@islamayman5927 When the carb isn't full of fuel, yes.
@@49ccscoot
Ok ... But in the normal condition it takes time for open the diphram of petcok i didn't know the time but it takes , but the manual the fuel pressure is already exist right ?
@@islamayman5927 If the bowl is full, then the vacuum petcock will work fine. You shouldn't have any issues starting. It will have to get a vacuum signal to get fuel flowing, but a full bowl has plenty so it won't matter. The vacuum petcock will only delay starting with empty or very low fuel bowls, like new carbs or after one has drained for some reason.
+90GTVert @90GTVert
How do you reconcile the manual shut-off petcock with the fact that the fuel supply should be shut down when parked more than a very short while, especially when the weather is hot? It doesn't seem physically reachable in this implementation...
I love these videos, and many thanks!
Just reach up under there and shut it off. Not difficult. There are shutoffs that could be mounted to the frame. I've seen people mount them in fenders so it's in plain sight.
Hi can you please reply again my question tank you very very mutch to help me, I by a new vacuum pump four my Sym Fiddle 1999 from 1999 my question is, I try to blow on vacuum air on pump and is dificult is normal because wheen I remove the old one I blow whit my muff and the air going tru and new one is not tank you Berenguer
It should be difficult I think. It shouldn't feel like you're just blowing right through it. Been a while since I've had the misfortune of messing with a vacuum petcock or pump other than throwing it away though.
***** I'm starting to think you were very wise in getting rid of your vacuum petcock! I was thinking of the worst scenario, but maybe the misty weather that night merely fouled up the carb a bit and got a vacuum leak in the line. Once that happens with a crappy carb with a sealed cap over the idle mixture screw, sounds like you'd have trouble starting after getting that vacuum leak.
Problem I have is the fuel is constantly emptying into carburetor. When I replaced the carburetor, I had to pinch the line to be able to work.
If it has a stock vacuum petcock, then the petcock is bad.
@@49ccscoot ty will replace then..saw Ur video on replacing fuel lines n the same.
@@49ccscoot can you recommend one or source?
@@ciabruno2357 If you want to go manual like my vid, a small engine (mower) shop would have them.
@@49ccscoot Freaking B's..replaced carb; went manual petcock, and now though it starts right up can't go faster than 5-10mph...and puttering...let alone go up the slope I used to @ least @20 mph...here I am having to get off it, walk it up the slope under 84 deg. temp...WHAT NOW???? I was anal about the instructions...made sure no gaps, vacum to manifold plugged..no pinched tubes etc... the speedometer does not even work now...???????
Profi
hey where should i by a new variator?
PartsForScooters and ScooterTuning.Ca are a couple of spots that I like.
I need help with mine bro I put new carb on it took off petcock
What's it doing?
@@49ccscoot one of reason I have to put new tank on it I got it from friend and it all rust in there idk if I should keep petcock and vaccun lines I don't know what size is factory for fuel and vaccun
@@roybray8741 With a rusty tank, you should swap out the hoses and fuel filter at least. If you wish to stay with a petcock, then they're cheap enough that I'd probably replace it too for good measure. Regarding the hoses; most fuel hoses on these will be 3/16" or the metric equivalent and vacuum can be 1/8 to 3/16, but you can measure the barbs on ports to know for sure what it needs.
@@49ccscoot ok thanks alot yea I'm putting new tank on it and new filter it has new carb on it now I have a gy6 tao tao
Where can I buy that fuel filter and shut off valve?
You can get those shut offs about anywhere that sells mower parts. The filter was a Visu-Filter. Not sure who sells those now. I used to get them from PartsForScooters. Mower and small engine shops should also carry suitable filters.
Thank you! Do you know if those are 3/16 or 1/4 fittings. Just want to know what size filter and valve I need for my TaoTao
@@ZAzamar123 Either can work. 3/16" is prob the more popular.
Those vacuum petcocks are the devil's work.
Will this work on a 150cc
Same process.
If u put manual shut off how do u get it to it with plastic on moped
It sits right behind the rear side panels and can easily be reached. Some people use shutoff valves that can mount to the frame or panels.
@@49ccscoot ok bro thanks I can't get mine to start I thinks it's petcock been sitting for 3 yrs do u have fb u can help me mine is Roy bray in a red shirt
@@roybray8741 Don't use fb, sorry. If sitting for 3 years, all fuel needs to be drained and the carb needs to be thoroughly cleaned.
@@49ccscoot dang Idk how to do the carb is it hard to
@@roybray8741 49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/190143/thread
What can I do if my vacuum petcock is attached directly to the tank before the filter?
Easiest way is to figure out what threads are on the tank and get a manual replacement. Then it would just screw on like the stock unit. I've had good luck finding them on eBay. Measure the OD of the threads and then find the thread pitch. If you have a thread pitch gauge, that works great. If not, you can try to carefully measure tip to tip of 2 adjacent threads. So if that measurement was say 1.0mm, and the OD was near 15mm, then you'd look for a shutoff valve with M15x1.0 threads in this example.
90GTVert got ya, I'll try and figure it out it's an agility 125 but hopefully it wont look like that for long custom fiberglass over the winter. Also do you think there would be a way to change the bars? Or am I stuck with custom fab for that?
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/418/aftermarket-stock-handlebar-upgrade-information
90GTVert you have everything!:) thank you soo much if I have anything else I'll come back for sure, do you have any guides on wiring from scratch? I plan to do custom front LED headlights and I dont think they'll work with an AC system
I'm actually working on a DC conversion with a total wiring harness from scratch ATM. It's not working yet, but you can see what I've done so far in my build thread : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/436/triton-2-t2-89-110cc?page=164
here is a link to a similar [manual petcock](www.amazon.com/Replacement-Briggs-Stratton-Cut-Off-494768/dp/B002HPX2V0/ref=pd_sbs_sg_as_4) for those who are interested. Thanks for these video's by the way, recently got my scooter and these are incredibly helpful
*edit apparently I have no idea how to embed links in youtube comments. ah well
my scoot has the filter first then the fuel valve, is this ok?
That's fine. The reason I like the shutoff first is because I can turn fuel off when I change the filter.
*****
understood, hey ive seen you in the 'scooter rebels' forums, under your picture it says fat ghost rider, hahahaha
Yeah, that's me. Been awhile since I've really been on other forums. 49ccscoot keeps me busy.
question i justed changed the carburator however
when the scooter is in idle, it shuts off right away and i have to restart my scooter
any fix to this?
i have a taotao by the way
+DJ SALTYNUTZ Could be as simple as increasing idle speed. I've had some where the enricher doesn't work ideally and no matter what I do I have to "babysit" the scoot while it's warming up or set idle speed higher than it needs to be for when it's warm.
i tried adjusting the idel speed and samething happens. the back of the wheel keeps spinning and when it stops the scooter shuts off.
I forget where I saw you using an extender for torque on an impact wrench, but was just looking for a decent website where you can buy a used Aprilia and saw a guy showing pics of his friend's Aprilia and damage done to the variator and he thought it was due to using an impact wrench without a torque extender. How do you measure how much torque you're using with an impact wrench? I've got to first get that new Batterty tender Jr. (may have been stolen in the mail) chuck and chuck key, then get it started and running well again, so don't need to know 'how' to use my new rechargeable cordless impact wrench on the variator, clutch and flywheel, but would like to know how to properly and accurately measure foot pounds of torque.
The torque sticks should limit torque by flexing when used with an impact wrench and each stick has a certain rating so you choose the torque value you want when buying. You'd have to use a torque wrench and see how much force it takes to move a fastener you installed with the torque stick to see if it's right. With pneumatic tools you can adjust pressure if it's off. With electric you're stuck with whatever it is unless you have an adjustment on the impact or a way to change voltage.
***** Gee, that sounds complicated! I guess they sell torque sticks at Harbor Freight and they should be able to explain to me. How many torque sticks are needed for our scoots? I figure you need one for the Variator nut and one for the Clutch nut and one for the Flywheel nut too, so that's three. What's the foot pounds of torque needed on those three? I can use the four-way wrench to put on the rear wheel nut and a 18 inch crescent wrench for that big clutch nut, so only think I need the foot pounds for the 3 nuts. I remember when I saw you use that torque stick on your impact and thought to myself,...How does Brent know that's giving an exact foot pounds figure? A torque wrench is like a ratchet wrench, but sounds like it can measure actual foot pounds, pretty cool.
Chris Barron I don't know if you'll be able to get what you need at HF. I had to search for it and order online. One in the 30-40ft-lb range will work for the vari and clutch and flywheel. I had to buy in 3/8" drive to get that low TQ setting. Can't recall where now, it's been years, and use a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. The main thing when using a powerful impact is that it doesn't have to be perfect, but you want to limit how full power to avoid stripping threads. I hear with the electrics you can get used to how many clicks to tighten to about where you want it. No experience with them though. Torque wrenches are the precise way to set to a torque spec, but I never use them on my CVT.
***** Does Harbor Freight have the Torque Wrenches? Precision sounds important here. I know my new impact has a 1/2 inch drive.
Chris Barron
I wouldn't buy one from HF. I bought a 3/8" torque wrench from them on sale because it did lower torque values than my current torque wrenches. Finally used it about a month ago and it's WAY off. I hear Craftsman are good at a reasonable price or if you are trying to go cheap buy one of the dial types vs click types. The dial kind has a gauge and the needle goes up as you apply torque. The click type let you choose a torque setting and they're supposed to click or give when it's reached.
and who named that part a "petcock"?
Tried this but the carb keeps overflowing
The float height is probably too high. www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html#floatheight
mine is screwed into the tank. now what?
Find out what the thread pitch and diameter is and order a manual petcock that will screw on if you want to convert to manual shutoff. That's the easiest way and usually they're pretty cheap. You can even get those with reserve function if you like that idea.
@@49ccscoot yea i was thinkin of drillin right thru the old one till it flows. macgyver.
@@49ccscoot i went on ebay and found a on off petcock that screws into the fuel tank. thanks.
These Chinese made Petcocks are garbage and fail, ALL THE TIME. Take it off, bring it to a Honda dealership to to see if they can match it up. I did on my 150cc and it ran great after that.
Where did you get that Visnu fuel filter? I just did a search on it and found nothing close to it. I did a search a while back and found a similar fuel filter by another company that is sold by Autozone online. Here's the link. I checked out the link below today to get the cost for my zip code and it's $13.99, which seems expensive and think perhaps the one you got is a bit cheaper.
www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/K-N-Stainless-mesh-fuel-filter/_/N-25uo?itemIdentifier=576479&_requestid=5026109
Btw, I was searching for replacement tires for that Aprilia 250cc Scooter that have stock tires in the front of 120/70 15 and in the rear of 130/80 15. The front tire has a front fender over it, so doesn't sound like a good idea to go bigger, but the rear tire only has a mud guard and that is way above the rear tire. I don't like that extra height on the rear tire and saw a slightly wider tire by Michelin, a 140/70 15 tire, and this would make the front and rear tires the same height, so this would make the bike slightly lower to the ground, a more stable ride as well because that would lower the seat height slightly, which is important when you're not a giant like you with those long legs! LOL! Seriously though, I sat on a Yamaha TMAX 500cc Scooter at UCLA and this scoot has the same size front tire as the Aprilia, but the rear tire stock is a 160/60 15, so this rear tire is a bit shorter than the front tire. What I noticed on this Yamaha scoot is that I can put both of my heels on the ground with this slightly shorter rear tire, which stock has a half inch lower seat height at 31.5 inches as compared to the 32 inches on the Aprilia. Anyway, this half inch wider rear tire for the Aprilia at 140/70 15 seems like a better tire for the heavier set type of scooter rider like myself, or the giant type like yourself! I figure this tire ought to fit the Aprilia as less than a 1/4 inch on each side should give plenty of clearance for the two rear shock absorbers. It doesn't seem like anything else is in the way.
I got mine from www.partsforscooters.com/?partner=49CCSCOOT , but you can get them at a lot of places. Searching Visufilter, or Visu-Filter should bring up plenty of options.
120/70/15 = 21.61" tall
140/70-15 = 22.72" tall
130/80-15 = 23.19" tall
***** Thanks Brent! I found it, great price too! Do you think this filter will fit my Tygon hose better? The manual shut-off valve the guy sold me looks like the Briggs & Stratton you installed in your scoot and that fit my Tygon hose okay, but the fuel filter didn't fit well--hence the leaks perhaps. Btw, I noticed since I turned off the fuel line switch on Monday that I haven't smelled any gasoline emanating from my scoot since then, so pretty sure the leak is in that cheap fuel filter this guy sold me.
I also saw they sell batteries on that same website for the filter, but only saw 3.5aH and a 4.5aH batteries whereas my stock battery is a 4aH. Which one fits my scoot the best? I noticed the 3.5aH model is 3.39 inches tall so that's about the same height as my stock battery at 3 5/16ths inches tall.
Wow! That means the 140/70 15 tire is 'still' taller than the front tire. Do you have any recommendations on a tire the same height as the 120/70 15, but is slightly wider than the front tire. I think a little wider is a good idea, but don't think the very wide tire standard on the TMAX 500cc scoot will fit the Aprilia. It sounds like that 160/60 15 tire might be nearly as tall as the 120/70 15. That sounds like a nice tire size, but think maybe too wide to fit on the rear wheel of the Aprilia scoot.
Chris Barron
Any filter that matches the hose size should fit the hose fine.
My stock battery is much smaller than what could fit. If replacing it I'd go for the larger one that fits. Check first, but mine would fit a 7A-BS. 5 7/8 x 3 3/8 x 3 9/16. Gives a bit bore cranking and reserve than the other. Not all scoots are like this, but in mine there's a bunch of room around the little battery they gave me stock.
160/60-15 = 22.56" tall
Wider shorter tires may feel more stable but they may also lower fuel economy slightly from the wider contact patch. The 250 should be fast enough that any difference in speed isn't a major concern.
I'm not up to speed on all that's out there in 15" tires, but I've got a calculator on the page below so you can plug in the specs and it'll tell you the diameter.
www.49ccscoot.com/calculators.html
***** The Visu filter I ordered last night from Amazon.com says it fits the 1/4 inch and 3/16th inch hoses, so I guess my Tygon hose is one of them and ought to fit. Thanks for the link on tire diameter! I noticed that the 160/60 15 is only 1/10th of an inch shorter than the 140/70 15 tire, but the 130/80 15 is a full half inch taller than these two tires. The shorter and wider tires might lower fuel economy a little, but the feel of the scooter is much more stable. You wouldn't understand being a giant and all! LOL! You'd feel stable under either tire as your legs are much longer I bet! It's much easier to control the scooter if you're able to touch your heels to the ground, or come very close, but if your heels are way off the ground, it's not a good way to ride and becomes very unstable anytime you stop quickly and could result in a wreck, which can damage your scoot even at very slow speeds. Anyway, it's not a huge difference at only a half inch higher, but I'd much rather have one of the above two shorter, wider tires both a half inch shorter, so with both I'd be able to touch my heels to the ground when standing over the scoot. It doesn't sound like a big deal in height, but a half inch lower means my heels will touch the ground and that is really important in keeping the scoot stable at a stop, or anytime you need to make an abrupt stop. I'd also rather get someplace safely than get the best gas mileage, so shorter tires seem safer to me.
Btw....What do you think our gear sets are like? I figure you've had a few 50cc scooters, so you've got an approximate sense on teeth for those gear sets.
Do you think I can buy good used gear sets to experiment with the extra power from a BBK? I don't want to put too much money into my scoot as I'd rather save money to buy a new scoot, but I like tinkering around with my scoot and would like to see a little higher top-end speed with that 47mm BBK, which should give me at least 9cc's of extra power.
Chris Barron
I get it. You feel more in control when you can plant your feet. Comes in handy on snow and loose dirt when moving slowly. For simply stopping, lean slightly to one side and one foot should be able to be down totally. I can't reach with my heels sitting on the back of the seat on my raised up scoot, so that's what I do. The wider tires do make it feel more stable, but I think if you haven't rode one with large wheels before like the Aprilia has you'll be pleasantly surprised there. Only bad thing is if you get used to a 10" wheeled scoot, when you first ride with the 15" wheeled Ape you'll probably feel like it's sluggish or hard to turn. You'll have to actively countersteer to move it as quickly as you can just throw the smaller scoot around by simply moving your weight, or at least that's been my experience. It's worth it for a fast scoot though, because the larger diameter wheels and tires and longer wheelbase feel much more stable at speed and don't sink into every little imperfection in the roadway.
I've got what my stock gears are listed in the link below as well as a lot of what's available. I was told by a forum member that ScrappyDog no longer sells the same gears but hasn't updated their site so if that ends up being your choice, check with them before you order. I would think some of the sets closest to the stock ratios would be good choices.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/1265/gearing-database
I'm getting gas in my block.
It sounds like perhaps multiple issues.
If you have a vac petcock it should be stopping fuel flow when the engine is off.
Even without a petcock, the float should be stopping fuel flow once the level is high enough. Floats have issues sometimes though, and that's a part of why we have petcocks.
If your oil is diluted by gas, it can also be a very rich condition. If the tune is so rich that raw fuel is making it's way down to bore into the crankcase and oil, then it should run horribly and may even be chugging black smoke.
Ok. I'm getting a petcock today. But I'm having a problem looking up the route of fuel line. T is confusing me.
@@SamSung-tv8jr The fuel line should be a pretty straight path. Tank>Petcock>Filter>Carb.
The vacuum limes might be backwards or just wrong. I've been watching videos and looking up diagrams but hard to see what goes were
How do I post a picture of mine now
I didn't not like this at all the value is NOT rated for gas and the clamps suck they cut threw the house to easy. thanks for helping me wasted my money
Tygon F-4040-A is "lubricant and fuel tubing" and you aren't supposed to clamp down super tight. Mine are still there years later.