One of the more thoughtful, beautiful installations I've seen. Wish you guys served. Los Angeles. Struggling to find someone who will do pretty much this exact system for me, the way I want it.
Really cool! I just had a Fujitsu 4 heads installed. However, this configuration would have made more sense to me because the house also as a two zone Ducted A/C installed long ago. In my next upgrade I consider do what you guys did.
Nice installation. I have a single surge suppressor on my 48k Mitsubishi and I will probably invest in the line reactor combo unit on my next build. Also, the anti vibration stand off is totally necessary. I have had one lift mechanism go out on one of the mxz ceiling cassettes. The ducted air handler combination and classic wall mount air handler is the best configuration for condensate draining IMO.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) czcams.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
I have done two of these now and had the builder install a walkway to the unit for servicing and filter access in the attic. Seems this one may be a challenge to service
I’m from the West Coast just curious who is your distributor who do you guys get your Mitsubishi equipment from appreciate any info and great install by the way keep up the great work
I have single floor, 3 small bedrooms, plus living,dining kitchen and bathroom, totalling 880 ft2 . Will a ducted SPZ air handler system, relocated to the attic be adequate ? How many BTU'S will be required and can the ducted vents be placed from the attic to the ceilings of every room?
Well done! I do have a question... the more I read about installing these "pancake" (or "pizza box") air handlers in unconditioned attic space, the more I see folks sounding the alarm about how the attic is the worst possible place to put them. In other words, in the summer the system has to work harder to overcome the broiling attic temps, and vice-versa in the winter when the attic is freezing cold. I believe the ductwork insulation is typically only R6 or R9. Is it possible to improve the efficiency of these without converting the entire attic to conditioned space? Most folks doing a retrofit can't afford that. Thanks!
Converting the entire attic to a conditioned environment is ALWAYS the best move for the HVAC system. It truly is a matter of cost. I will say, if the ductwork is R8 and all ductwork is sealed and insulated properly with a properly sized system, you will have great results no matter what.
@@marrsheatingandairconditio5891 If you follow Mitsubishi's guidelines, their ducted systems would never be installed in unconditioned spaces. However, HVAC contractors know if they don't install in unconditioned spaces someone else will. Profit is a strong motivator.
How is the formaldehyde line set doing? I just had the same white lines at my own house. And I just had Pin hole leaks throughout the whole entire line.
Why the AC filters on the ceiling? While those of us who are healthy and strong can maneuver a ladder to do the regular filter switch, what about elderly or disabled people? Love Mitsubishi and have a system but all of my filters are at locations to where even an elderly person can easily make the change. I would appreciate feedback from any HVAC expert as to how one might change the filter should they not be able to access the ceiling return vent. Are they expected to call every month or so and pay $100.00 for a service call? Perhaps a family member or friend but what about those who might not have that luxury?
so, looking at this attic what caught my eye was the fact that all the cold or hot lines from are in the very hot or very cold attic since they insulated the floor but not the underside of the roof. not sure i would do it this way ;-)
Why didn’t you use the gravity drain port lower down on the ducted unit instead of relying on the condensate pump to push the condensate up out the top drain port?
I didn't know you could run 1 compressor to multiple air handlers. I have one in the attic and one in the basement. I could essentially get a 4 ton units outside and run it to a junction box then to both air handlers?
That’s ok. I have 4 outdoor units, and 6 indoor zones. My 3 bedrooms go to 1 outdoor unit, then I have 3 1 to 1 units. This is good because if one system goes down you still have heat or cooling.
Nice Job, question on the ducted unit drain. I only install PEAD type units and I was curious to know how that drain performs without doing a lift on it? If I remember correctly it’s a 27” inch max. I’m guessing you don’t have any problems with condensate on that unit? I’m only asking since the manual says to plum that with a pipe 90 going straight up.
Look on page 4 and see the piping diagram. It shows the PVC sloping without a riser. You can (like you said) plumb that up to 27" of lift, but nowhere does it say that it is required. You do still need to have the lift mechanism plugged in!
Proximity to bedrooms and centralization of all zones. They also plan to add a catwalk to the branch box, but service on the branch box will rarely be needed
Seldom if ever the 'total price' is never added on these vids. It is quite annoying. I'm looking for straight duckless units for cooling only in the area that my c/a unit(attic) does not cover so well in the few hot months. I'm having hvac techs come out for quotes.
If you have gas, don't get rid of it, because once you do, you will never be allowed to reconnect it. Many city's will not issue permits to install NG anymore. Watch the movie the LAST CHASE with Steve Austin (Lee Majors) to see how this works out.
Please forgive me if I get this wrong as I had to translate your question, I only speak English, from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania in America. I think I understand your question from watching a Russian family right here on CZcams, The Sherlock Family is the name of the channel. I love that I can sit here in America, and watch your beautiful country and people, and I get to learn we are the same. The TV would have us all believe that we are so different, we aren't. So, to answer your question, from what I learned about your country, and what makes it different in America, in America you can do your own wiring, if your competent, but all new homes and most projects require permits, and very strict rules must be followed, we have something called the (NEC) National Electric Code, and then local regulations will be more strict. Also after the work is done it needs to be inspected before any walls are closed in, it won't pass an inspection of you cover up the wiring, and the home or building wouldn't allowed to be occupied. I was told in Russia no permits are required, in Russia no permits or regulations, more like recommendations for the electrical work, so nobody will ever check it. Now in all commercial sites I've ever worked on, I work in construction on the commercial side, all wires are inside a metal clad casing. We usually call it romex, but that's a name brand and I'm sure it's region specific named even here in America. I just looked up the price difference right now for a roll of 250 feet or 76.2 meters of 12/2 solid copper wire, 3 wire, green is ground, white neutral, black is hot, in US dollars is twice the cost right now, 108.00 US dollars or .43 cents a foot for non clad and 214.00 dollars, .86 cents a foot for the same length in metal cladding. Again, I have a mix of it in my very old house, and all commercial work I've done it's all in metal cladding. Seems the difference is the very strict rules we have here. I just watched a video of this Russian family, he was talking about the difference in wiring rules, and he was trying to figure it out too. He was finishing up building his home for his young family, he's on year 10 and he shows a bunch of the differences between the building materials between our two country's. This is his video talking about the wiring, which I think refers directly to your question. czcams.com/video/f8ZOm4xvFF8/video.htmlsi=N3qm64BK2B-br5aH Hopefully I was able to answer your question. From what I've learned about the Russian people from watching one family had been eye opening, I share it with my friends and family here in America. I also live and work with a large community of Russian people who immigrated to America, from what I learned from CZcams and the Russian people here in America, your country and people are very resourceful, and extremely creative. I watched them making beautiful things from nothing, and I also watch some of the auto community from Russia, they're exactly like our South Eastern Americans, they have fun, and maybe a little crazy at times too. I hope we could all understand each other, and not just the difference in our wiring, it's a start, I know most Russian people are just like Americans, it's our leaders who cause trouble. Thank you for taking the time to read this, maybe I can build a small bridge between our two country's and bring more Americans and Russian people together at a time when it's greatly needed. Keep asking questions and keep learning our very small differences, for if we both do that, maybe we can really make a change and build a bigger bridge. Stay safe, stay strong and know that people over here see what's really going on. Возможно, однажды железный занавес упадет от наших лидеров, которые заставляют людей, которыми они руководят, бояться тех, кого они не знают. Ведь мы все хотим одного и того же, потому что мы все действительно одинаковы. Еще раз спасибо, что прочитали все это, и я надеюсь, что Google Translate никоим образом не оскорбил вас, пусть вы и ваши близкие будете в безопасности и здоровы.
To anyone watching, these units are Electricity guzzlers! I have two of these running 8 mini splits (4 each), the electricity bill is maybe $100-$200 less than running radiant heat in those rooms except now I owe $30k! Total Bologna and not worth the investment unless you got solar or a new build going on! Get gas instead, much much cheaper!
Another complex system with no redundancy. Poor air filtration and difficult cleaning on those wall mounted AH’s. Wait until they call, it’ll surely be an emergency. Don’t even try to send a new tech out on that one.
Wall mounted air handlers are actually pretty easy to clean with the right gear, in fact we offer that as a service very frequently. As far as filtration, the two ducted units have 14” returns on 1 ton systems so that we can lower velocity snd use MERV 8 filters. Due to these also being located at opposite ends of the home, we will be filtering just fine. Certainly not an air purifier, but better than most ducted systems. We would only send a trained tech to any call. To do anything else would be a disservice to our customers.
That setup looks fine to me! I have placed 12" returns on 1 tons with no issues. I liked those oversized returns, did you guys just install them and use a 14" flex to the return plenum? Also you mention merv 8 filters ? are they just 1" thick? Thanks
Wow, someone else mentioning filtration… I am jealous of how easy it is to zone these mini splits, but filtration is why I stayed with central- a MERV 16 Aprilaire for allergy season has been a major quality of life improvement.
One of the more thoughtful, beautiful installations I've seen. Wish you guys served. Los Angeles. Struggling to find someone who will do pretty much this exact system for me, the way I want it.
Beautiful work looks fantastic and extremely thoughtful
Really cool! I just had a Fujitsu 4 heads installed. However, this configuration would have made more sense to me because the house also as a two zone Ducted A/C installed long ago. In my next upgrade I consider do what you guys did.
Nice installation. I have a single surge suppressor on my 48k Mitsubishi and I will probably invest in the line reactor combo unit on my next build. Also, the anti vibration stand off is totally necessary. I have had one lift mechanism go out on one of the mxz ceiling cassettes. The ducted air handler combination and classic wall mount air handler is the best configuration for condensate draining IMO.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) czcams.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
Thanks for the quick reply on the Sumo Blocks. Also, the bracket for the top - Is that something that can be ordered or was that made?
I have done two of these now and had the builder install a walkway to the unit for servicing and filter access in the attic. Seems this one may be a challenge to service
Is it written down anywhere to which exact model numbers of outdoor unit and indoor units are used for this job?
I’m from the West Coast just curious who is your distributor who do you guys get your Mitsubishi equipment from appreciate any info and great install by the way keep up the great work
Can I add 3 indoors units to the PUMY-P36NKMU3 using T adapter only instead of the branch box. ? Thank you
I have single floor, 3 small bedrooms, plus living,dining kitchen and bathroom, totalling 880 ft2 . Will a ducted SPZ air handler system, relocated to the attic be adequate ? How many BTU'S will be required and can the ducted vents be placed from the attic to the ceilings of every room?
Is this a chilled watter system or is there an evaporator in the air handler?
Well done! I do have a question... the more I read about installing these "pancake" (or "pizza box") air handlers in unconditioned attic space, the more I see folks sounding the alarm about how the attic is the worst possible place to put them. In other words, in the summer the system has to work harder to overcome the broiling attic temps, and vice-versa in the winter when the attic is freezing cold. I believe the ductwork insulation is typically only R6 or R9. Is it possible to improve the efficiency of these without converting the entire attic to conditioned space? Most folks doing a retrofit can't afford that. Thanks!
Converting the entire attic to a conditioned environment is ALWAYS the best move for the HVAC system. It truly is a matter of cost. I will say, if the ductwork is R8 and all ductwork is sealed and insulated properly with a properly sized system, you will have great results no matter what.
@@marrsheatingandairconditio5891 If you follow Mitsubishi's guidelines, their ducted systems would never be installed in unconditioned spaces. However, HVAC contractors know if they don't install in unconditioned spaces someone else will. Profit is a strong motivator.
How is the formaldehyde line set doing? I just had the same white lines at my own house. And I just had Pin hole leaks throughout the whole entire line.
thumbs up for the reefer line OCD
What do you think of Mitsubishi Hybrid VRF Ductless system. Compared to a standard VRF or Daiken VRV system.. can you compare those?
Why the AC filters on the ceiling? While those of us who are healthy and strong can maneuver a ladder to do the regular filter switch, what about elderly or disabled people? Love Mitsubishi and have a system but all of my filters are at locations to where even an elderly person can easily make the change. I would appreciate feedback from any HVAC expert as to how one might change the filter should they not be able to access the ceiling return vent. Are they expected to call every month or so and pay $100.00 for a service call? Perhaps a family member or friend but what about those who might not have that luxury?
so, looking at this attic what caught my eye was the fact that all the cold or hot lines from are in the very hot or very cold attic since they insulated the floor but not the underside of the roof. not sure i would do it this way ;-)
What are your services area and pricing, I would love to have this install in my property.
I just had one of these installed where can I get the black rubber anti vibration mounts for the outdoor unit from?
Thanks for the reply on the Sumo Blocks. Also, the bracket for the top - Is that something that can be ordered or was that made?
whats the cost for a system like this?
Why didn’t you use the gravity drain port lower down on the ducted unit instead of relying on the condensate pump to push the condensate up out the top drain port?
I was thinking the same. I disconnect the pump and use the gravity drain option whenever possible. Less to go wrong.
I didn't know you could run 1 compressor to multiple air handlers. I have one in the attic and one in the basement. I could essentially get a 4 ton units outside and run it to a junction box then to both air handlers?
That’s ok. I have 4 outdoor units, and 6 indoor zones. My 3 bedrooms go to 1 outdoor unit, then I have 3 1 to 1 units. This is good because if one system goes down you still have heat or cooling.
Nice Job, question on the ducted unit drain. I only install PEAD type units and I was curious to know how that drain performs without doing a lift on it? If I remember correctly it’s a 27” inch max. I’m guessing you don’t have any problems with condensate on that unit? I’m only asking since the manual says to plum that with a pipe 90 going straight up.
Look on page 4 and see the piping diagram. It shows the PVC sloping without a riser. You can (like you said) plumb that up to 27" of lift, but nowhere does it say that it is required. You do still need to have the lift mechanism plugged in!
@@marrsheatingandairconditio5891 thats good to know, I will definitely keep that in mind next time. Are you guys on the west coast?
Hope they removed the blow in insulation from that drain pan. Asking for trouble as the drain pan drain line will probably get clogged.
Why not mount the branch box closer the entrance?
Proximity to bedrooms and centralization of all zones. They also plan to add a catwalk to the branch box, but service on the branch box will rarely be needed
Somebody needs to invent a pretty cover for those
It looks like ICM493 is 40A only while Mitsubishi outdoor unit is 45-50A
theirs two icm493 theirs icm493 40amp and icm493 60amp
How much would this cost? Thank you
Seldom if ever the 'total price' is never added on these vids. It is quite annoying. I'm looking for straight duckless units for cooling only in the area that my c/a unit(attic) does not cover so well in the few hot months. I'm having hvac techs come out for quotes.
Probably 20K.
The units cost 8k installation 7 k . that's a new york price the problem is that mitsubishi products are expected to deliver in 3 or 4 months
Still a lot cheaper than getting a carrier Variable speed
What branch box model is that?
Ducted ductless....what am I hearing?🤣
Also, isn't the drain line on that air handler supposed to be on the bottom of the unit?
If you have gas, don't get rid of it, because once you do, you will never be allowed to reconnect it. Many city's will not issue permits to install NG anymore. Watch the movie the LAST CHASE with Steve Austin (Lee Majors) to see how this works out.
your basing shit off a movie what a retard you are
Your website is expired! Out of business????
You guys need a location in Georgia! Nobody knows shit about these things.
А де металорукав?Через дерев'яні ліги провода повинні прокладання в металорукаві.
Please forgive me if I get this wrong as I had to translate your question, I only speak English, from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania in America. I think I understand your question from watching a Russian family right here on CZcams, The Sherlock Family is the name of the channel. I love that I can sit here in America, and watch your beautiful country and people, and I get to learn we are the same. The TV would have us all believe that we are so different, we aren't.
So, to answer your question, from what I learned about your country, and what makes it different in America, in America you can do your own wiring, if your competent, but all new homes and most projects require permits, and very strict rules must be followed, we have something called the (NEC) National Electric Code, and then local regulations will be more strict. Also after the work is done it needs to be inspected before any walls are closed in, it won't pass an inspection of you cover up the wiring, and the home or building wouldn't allowed to be occupied.
I was told in Russia no permits are required, in Russia no permits or regulations, more like recommendations for the electrical work, so nobody will ever check it. Now in all commercial sites I've ever worked on, I work in construction on the commercial side, all wires are inside a metal clad casing. We usually call it romex, but that's a name brand and I'm sure it's region specific named even here in America. I just looked up the price difference right now for a roll of 250 feet or 76.2 meters of 12/2 solid copper wire, 3 wire, green is ground, white neutral, black is hot, in US dollars is twice the cost right now, 108.00 US dollars or .43 cents a foot for non clad and 214.00 dollars, .86 cents a foot for the same length in metal cladding. Again, I have a mix of it in my very old house, and all commercial work I've done it's all in metal cladding. Seems the difference is the very strict rules we have here.
I just watched a video of this Russian family, he was talking about the difference in wiring rules, and he was trying to figure it out too. He was finishing up building his home for his young family, he's on year 10 and he shows a bunch of the differences between the building materials between our two country's. This is his video talking about the wiring, which I think refers directly to your question.
czcams.com/video/f8ZOm4xvFF8/video.htmlsi=N3qm64BK2B-br5aH
Hopefully I was able to answer your question. From what I've learned about the Russian people from watching one family had been eye opening, I share it with my friends and family here in America. I also live and work with a large community of Russian people who immigrated to America, from what I learned from CZcams and the Russian people here in America, your country and people are very resourceful, and extremely creative. I watched them making beautiful things from nothing, and I also watch some of the auto community from Russia, they're exactly like our South Eastern Americans, they have fun, and maybe a little crazy at times too.
I hope we could all understand each other, and not just the difference in our wiring, it's a start, I know most Russian people are just like Americans, it's our leaders who cause trouble. Thank you for taking the time to read this, maybe I can build a small bridge between our two country's and bring more Americans and Russian people together at a time when it's greatly needed.
Keep asking questions and keep learning our very small differences, for if we both do that, maybe we can really make a change and build a bigger bridge.
Stay safe, stay strong and know that people over here see what's really going on.
Возможно, однажды железный занавес упадет от наших лидеров, которые заставляют людей, которыми они руководят, бояться тех, кого они не знают. Ведь мы все хотим одного и того же, потому что мы все действительно одинаковы. Еще раз спасибо, что прочитали все это, и я надеюсь, что Google Translate никоим образом не оскорбил вас, пусть вы и ваши близкие будете в безопасности и здоровы.
To anyone watching, these units are Electricity guzzlers! I have two of these running 8 mini splits (4 each), the electricity bill is maybe $100-$200 less than running radiant heat in those rooms except now I owe $30k! Total Bologna and not worth the investment unless you got solar or a new build going on! Get gas instead, much much cheaper!
What’s up with the surgical mask?
Another complex system with no redundancy. Poor air filtration and difficult cleaning on those wall mounted AH’s. Wait until they call, it’ll surely be an emergency. Don’t even try to send a new tech out on that one.
Wall mounted air handlers are actually pretty easy to clean with the right gear, in fact we offer that as a service very frequently. As far as filtration, the two ducted units have 14” returns on 1 ton systems so that we can lower velocity snd use MERV 8 filters. Due to these also being located at opposite ends of the home, we will be filtering just fine. Certainly not an air purifier, but better than most ducted systems. We would only send a trained tech to any call. To do anything else would be a disservice to our customers.
That setup looks fine to me! I have placed 12" returns on 1 tons with no issues. I liked those oversized returns, did you guys just install them and use a 14" flex to the return plenum? Also you mention merv 8 filters ? are they just 1" thick? Thanks
Wow, someone else mentioning filtration… I am jealous of how easy it is to zone these mini splits, but filtration is why I stayed with central- a MERV 16 Aprilaire for allergy season has been a major quality of life improvement.
I stopped watching it since the dude came in with his face diaper.