Mitsubishi HVAC At My House - Full System Tour
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- čas přidán 7. 01. 2021
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This woman is amazing. Thanks again for all the info.
This is my profession but on the commercial scale. This nice lady knows her stuff. Good video, and very accurate HVAC information. No errors 👍
Having some humidity issues in my South Texas home, and boy, have I learned some things from this video. Thanks for everything you do @Matt Risinger
Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I czcams.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
All ac's condensate. If yours came with a drain designed to be exiting your house, you'll need to install it or, a leak will appear one day, sooner and not welcomed as no one desired to confirm my words. If it happens don't feel too bad though, the solution is known, allow it out. Then get ready or, make a way possible for it to be flushed/clean every 6-8 month, if possible install it a flow switch or two, in case one fails the other may work as a rescue, to avoid the unwelcomed drain overflown or drain failure or clogged due to the nature of the system. Again, don't get frustrated or mad. What I tell you is what many don't bother to do tell you because of all the reasons implied. Hope you get this. If not, you will! Any questions just ask. I'll try to help.
Kimberly knows it and explain it clearly. I'm taking notes along the video, although just for general knowledge. Great detailed episode Matt.
Brilliant channel. I'm from the UK where these units have been pretty standard for some time. What amazes me when I go to the USA is how powerful the air con is. Everything is full pelt. I go to Disney and the shops all have the doors open and the sidewalk is cold because of the cold air spill. Really loving this channel I am obsessed with air con and am always up in my loft as my home is air conditioned with the same units your using in your attic space.
Disney is in Flordia UK is cold and more north.
The showcasing of the mid static unit is what sold me on installing a multi zone mid static at my home. We have 540 sqft, and are going to be adding another 575 sqft. I chose a Pioneer brand because it’s diy friendly, and I can install it myself as well as the fact that I can install the air handler for the existing structure now and install the air handler for the addition in a few months to a year when we make it to that phase in the addition.
I know next to nothing about HVAC, but I taught myself just enough to be dangerous and install my own unit. Thanks for doing videos like this Matt, I’m always learning something.
I'm building this spring and I found this video extremely helpful. Many thanks!! Greetings from Newfoundland Canada
One of my favorite videos yet.
Love those Mitsubishi systems. Big fan of mini splits, introduced to me when I worked in Taiwan. Awesome content!
People, Engineers are at the hart of best practices. Matt’s home proves that we can’t “wing it” any more so please don’t ignore knowledge input in building systems. The costs have been going down and customers are more educated.
Episodes like this are honestly more valuable than the architectural engineering courses I took in college.
I found that most things in life are haha
There is an error. It's a minor one that can cause costly damage in the future. Where are the Secondary drain pans with flow switches. If those systems primary drain lines gets clogged, all of the water that is coming off the evaporator coil will overflow in the primary drain pan and leak through any cracks that water can find and will ruin his ceilings causing him to make costly repairs that could have been avoided had he put a secondary drain underneath those systems.
secondary drain pan underneath those systems.
Thanks for your new episode!
thank you to all participants, Current, Past and FUTURE Videos
Its always Great to View Various Industry Experts in that Particular Business Sector as a Speaker
= FOR Sharing the knowledge
most helpful
Love the super nerdy details!
As a HVAC technician, I don't recommend mini split from repairing aspects. Many of control board and connector are proprietary parts. Which it increases repairing time and costs. In ur case, it is okay since u have central AC to help if ur mini split got problem. (FYI, what I know as a technician in Houston that most of HVAC supplies to support central AC system. Think about mini split as Tesla and central ac as Toyota, u might not able access proper part for Tesla, but u can go any store to get Toyota parts.)
I agree here- definitely need a robust warranty where parts are available and/or manufacturer or distributor are quick to replace vs repair when parts are not available
That sucks man, what makes have you run into that didnt have parts readily available? In east TN between the few supply houses around I usually only have to wait on parts for older equipment. I've only really seen Mitsu's, Fujitsu's, and LG's minisplits though so there's a lot I have no experience with. Never had any issue getting parts though, they seem to be either on the shelf or trucked in within hours at the suppliers we buy the units from. Cost, meh, you're probably right that parts can be more expensive. That said, my opinion is that it's insignificant and maybe not even a fair comparison. Parts are only notably more expensive compared to cheaper(lowerSEER) and older equipment, comparing parts to other high efficiency equipment shows little difference.
@@paulmasoner8073 I am hardly running to mini split in Texas. As we know everything is big in Texas, so AC. I mean mini split is so unpopular even store sells the unit but they didn't stock the parts (such as control board, compressor or condenser motor) the store told me they hardly sold a mini split therefore they don't store those parts. if u need it, they will special order the replace parts. I mean I rather shop from amazon for those parts with 2days free shipping instead order from store. yes, u can replace some of parts with after market parts but not every parts.
@@jie1379 I’m in Texas and yes mini splits are not the majorly but VRF heat pumps are getting very popular, one outside unit and multiple indoor units is definitely the way to go.
@@TheJPPowell u might need to consider that multiple evaporator coils will increase chance of refrigerant leakage. I would not recommend my customers that. Instead of that, I would rather recommend one central ac with multiple zone, so there only has one evaporator coils. For long terms, you won't suffer to troubleshoot which coils is leaking refrigerant. (Since we adopted R410a, I noticed evaporator coil get leakage more often by comparing with R22 system.)
Awesome build spec, agreed to using mini splits and cassettes downstairs. Def saves from cutting holes.
I like that you hard piped all of this so important in a system like that
Great explanation of a lot of concepts - thanks. Greetings fro Cleveland, OH!
Yeah HVAC is fun and all, but hold up... job site coffee machine?
I was really hoping he'd spend a good minute on that.
I see it on Homely Depot’s site. Also available in Special Ops Black. 😆
I have one. It’s great.
Pros:
Uses K cups so it’s easy to find pods for.
It’s fast as shit.
Cons:
It has to be plugged in. I keep it in the truck where I can plug it in anywhere.
It also only makes like 3 cups before needing to be refilled.
Jeremy, how tall of a container can you fit into the opening?
Right
Glad to see USA slowly moving into the 21st century in the residential HVAC deployments :). In continental Europe and Asia Mitsubishi and Daikin are deploying even more advanced equipment with multiple internet connected units and sensors, and even hybrid geothermal pump based multi-split systems.
Matt Risinger is doing a good work out there. He's not only lowering your costs, he's also lowering emissions and your carbon impact, no matter if you care about it, or not.
It's absolutely infuriating how slow we are to adopt new tech out here while all the regressive idiots scream how we're number one. There are people in the comments here whining about how they only recommend the tired old single zone ducted systems they're used to because [insert scary possibility about new thing here].
I installed a 3 ton Mitsubishi hyper heat system in my house- love it. I was going to use a ceiling cassette however the installer talked me out of it. The drain lines are a high maintenance item if you're not going purely gravity. The cassette units rely on a pump for the condensate, and you often end up with either leakage and/or mold in the lines. He said he'd install it but every time he does it he has to come back for those reasons.
Overall this is an amazing system and extremely efficient. Super quiet and I'm extremely happy with it over the last couple of years.
You’re installing contractor is absolutely unqualified on mini-split condensate pumps. If you can’t find the right pump, reply here and I will post the link to the right pump.
I thought the pump is Original Equipment, ie built in.
Thanks for posting. Wish I knew about this before I bought a new house. Kimberly rocks.
Matt and kimberley, thank you to your explanation 👍
Check out rough in boxes for your ductless heads for new construction and titan airex boots on all systems, a little cleaner install. We use Ruud Inverter systems on all our high end custom homes with Ultra Aire dehumidifiers and Fantech whole house hepa filter systems. I also install ervs controlled with voltage sensing relays wired into exhaust fans and stand alone makeup air systems for kitchen hoods to keep a positive pressure on the house. Most people are surprised how much better air quality they can have in their home with a little extra time and planning. Educated builders are key to this, I have a select few custom builders I work for in central texas that are educated and don’t mess around. Good luck out there, stay safe and done sell yourself short.
My goodness, so many systems for a residential setup. Just the electrical service alone would require an entire subpanel with breakers for the numerous compressors, hvac units, dehum and fresh air systems. It'd be nice to see some cost $ and projected years to recoup vs conventional 2-zone single compressor setup. Few people can go to town like this with a sponsored setup.
The electrical load is less than you think. Usually, you just home run everything from the main panel to a disconnect. His dehumidifier is on 120v. The ductless systems use less amps than traditional systems, 2 pole 20 amp or 2 pole 30 amp. You only have a breaker for the compressor. The head units are powered from the compressor by either 12/3 or 14/3 i think. I can't remember what I used for my (2) 3 zone systems.
@@believerscc incorrect with city multi
All city multi indoor units run there own single phase 230v line.
The amps are so small on VFD units like this.
to brake even with, that system close to 10 years guarantee, also depends what climate r u living in
My 20 y/o DFW house has 6k sq ft under HVAC coverage. Finally finished 2 yr project replacing 5 complete HVAC systems zones and 2 tankless hot h2o systems, $75k new roof and $30k in JW replacement windows.This year is backyard refresh time with pool and pool house renovations, privacy fence replacement and resoodding dogs side of yard.
Could have built a brand new 2500 sq. ft. home.
Thank You guys very informative 👍
You kill it every time... still waiting on you to build me a home.....
Would love to hear about the ductwork tradeoffs and how you came to the decision. I love the vibration isolation detail but would’ve liked that unistrut to be parallel to the ground, you can tell those springs could catch on the sides over time.
I was just thinking the same thing that screw with the spring cap is already touching the unistrut
Totally! I was having a hard time concentrating on what was being said because I was like, "What happened here? That iso is going to need to be changed out as soon as the system gets powered up the first time."
@McNea The inverter/zoning technology for central a/c systems has been out for quite a while now, but their proprietary controls for each manufacturer seem to still have issues from what people say. If they could get that under control or agree on a standard, I think there would be more adoption of it! Even the existing systems (Trane) can also have small zones since it can control the compressor speed like the mini splits, and even have zones that can "participate" if they're too small to run alone. Though I don't know how the system would be affected if you have a long duct run. Also, in other countries, do you think the cost of mini splits is a lot less since it's pretty much the norm there? They don't seem to care as much about having visible units on the wall like we do here in the U.S.
Hello from the great state of Michigan
Use smart tiles that regulate moisture passively as decoration on some walls ... like that no issue with moisture. They absorb moisture from the air when it's too humid, and release moisture back into the air when it's too dry, passively without you needing to do anything else.
After a quick look, I'm not sure why you comparing "Smart Tiles" to HVAC/Dehumid/Air treatment system. This is not that you can compare, at least I don't understand. For me its like comparing a bike with an aeroplane, which is faster or can carry more passengers.
Matt. On the hyper heats..they come with a base pan heater on the outdoor units... I live in Connecticut I unplugged mine on all 3 of my units.. if you have them on your system unplug them... I never had a problem and I’m way up north...they kick on at 40 degrees or in defrost mode which you may only see a couple times a year..my units I installed myself, and designed based on load calculations (I used to work for Johnson Controls) Electrician by trade.... I got 5 zones and 3 outdoor units. Also mine are mounted 2 ft off the ground..also make sure you add a surge protector at each outdoor unit at the disconnect. I’m not sure you need any of this information but I learn something on every of your videos.. THANKS!
The few hvac installs that I don’t pick apart bad practices. From one picky hvac guy, that is a beautiful install.
Matt, I have a good Mitsubishi ductless system. I had to replace a 30 year old system, my roof at the same time. My electricity usage went from 500-600 a month here in California down to about 150-250 a month during the peak summer last year. one of the nice parts is the system has a dehumidifier built in
What part of CA? I am considering it in Sacramento, seems like the climate is mild enough for the heating of a standard mini-split.
@@grantrobarts Placerville
My architecture office has had a CitiMulti system since 2007, along with spray foam insulation throughout. It’s an expensive system and honestly the maintenance required on it has been a little ridiculous. We’ve also worked with a college campus who has used Mitsubishi in all their buildings for nearly 20 years now.
Great job!!! Only thing i would change is the armour flex on the line sets. K flex Titan type insulation holds up with UV much better.Especially when penetrating thru the exterior. Eventually the insulation will get hard,crack and lose its insulation factor.There goes your tight seal penetration. K flex doesn't rip when installing. Its even hard to cut with a utility knife.
Nice intro 👌
Makes my 70's rancher with high effieciency natural gas down draft look like a Ford model A
Nice information, good video.😊😊😊😊
I highly recommend the Saeco Xelsis. Plumbed with a fill hose and a suction vac to empty the drip tray. I did it, it is amazing.
Here in north Georgia it would be really nice to have a whole house dehumidifier that just ran automatically as needed. Might be 75 out but 90% humidity and it feels sticky without the a/c.
Minisplits like the system he put in have variable speed compressors and fans. Beat the pants out of any dedicated dehumidifier since you can just put the system in dehumidification mode and as it does the cooling it also optimizes for maximum dehumidification. Very efficient! I was planning to put a minisplit in my master bedroom just for dehumidification but now I may be moving so I nixed that. But if I was staying in Virginia I would put a few strategic minisplits for alternate cooling/dehumidification vs. a dehumidifier any day.
Did your HVAC contractor adjusted the settings on your control board? If you still have your manual, you can adjust the fan speed to reduce the CFM and optimize dehumidification. Since I run a portable dehumidifier in the basement, I haven't asked to have that setting done on our air handler.
@@DocNo27 there is no doubt that Matt did install the whole house (or ducted zone) de-humidifier.). It will often run to dehumidify even when no cooling is needed.
You can see the ultraire right there
in a forced-air system we have one fan that pushes the conditioned air around the home. the air is circulated, pushed and pulled all around the home with just one piece of hardware. Now we want to install a fan and air handler in each room. All installed at the same time, so expect to have to replace all the units at the same time. But now you have the cost of replacing 8 units, not just one. And you will need to do that work in the homeowner's living area and not the equipment room.
It's like installing a small water heater under each sink?
17:22 Matt... I love how you are talking about system reliability and possible failure and what not. As you tug on the line sets.
Just saying. 😁
Ask Mitsubishi how long it takes to get the necessary replacement parts on these S series units... I am on week 11, for an inverter board on a unit. It's ok, customers don't mind waiting 3 months for repairs. Oh yeah, Trane cannot get the parts easily, because they are co-branded and part numbers are different.
It’s not even hooked up.
@@DaveVanWest Every Mitsubishi certified distributor has more than adequate replacement modules. Only work with them.
With a vertical loops in you're lineset can create a oil trap. If you don't want to cut the lineset shorter make the loop horizontal so the oil won't be trapped.
The lines weren’t connected yet
This whole rebuild series has been a blast, Matt. Super informative.
Question for you, as a new home owner, is there a legitimate product (hardware, or otherwise) that can disperse aroma/scent through the HVAC system? (Like you’d find in a nice resort.)
Matt some day I would like to see a budget house built with your knowledge. I bet you could pull of an amazing build.
I agree but the cognitive dissonance for Matt might cause his head to blow up. He tried something like that for this house and you can see how that worked out.
@@davefoc he would have to take into consideration not everyone takes perfect care of ac or can afford a repair asap.
wow. Kimberly is impressive! she made this clear and easy to understand. I wished you or she explained a little bit better how it works when you have more than one indoor unit hooked up the one compressor. Also, one advantage you both didn't mention a mini split has is, that you dont have to run ducts thru the upstairs rooms to cool the lower floors, specially now that the builders start building multi floor houses.
That's what the purpose of the variable refrigerant valve is they discussed early on in the video.
You live in Austin TX - on avg, it’ll be 100 degrees daily, from July to Sept.
Just what i was thinking! Round rocks hot!
If you think about the actual time that it is 100 degrees, it is only that hot from like 10am to 6pm (and that is generous). That is still 1/3 of the day, 2/3 of the day would be under.
I agree though, the 1%-of-the-year is a low estimate but the actual % of time during the day is probably not as much as most imagine.
It’s not about controlling ventilation because it sure is far cheaper to just have seepage. But a heat/energy exchanger allows you to recuperate losses and save.
Can you explain a bit more about the filter and clean air system setup? It would be good to know for other families with asthma or allergy problems.
When you described VRF I heard simply the explanation of what variable speed drive (aka inverter drive) can do for any system including one outdoor unit matched to one head and having it operate at variable power levels. I thought VRF is the system of refrigerant junction boxes that would allow different heads connected to the same compressor to be providing simultaneous heating to one zone and cooling to another. e.g. The refrigerant could be evaporating in one head, returning to the compressor and then condensing in another head as well as in the outdoor coil.
City Multi has this feature, but not a "regular" multi zone condenser. City Multi uses a distributor box to accomplish the heat and cool at same time. This feature would be a rare need in a residential application. My personal unit on my house is a 3 ton with 4 evaporators all on separate line set connections at the condenser. I can not heat and cool at the same time.
Great video.
(Funny aside: if you set the "Quality" of this video to 480p or lower, it looks exactly like a mid-90's CD-ROM computer game video cutscene.)
Most homes have terrible ductwork that is installed by people who don't care. It's slapped together by the lowest priced contractor. High end, high performance HVAC systems can easily cost $30,000+. I love Mitsubishi Ductless systems and this is a great setup.
Super excited to see you're going to do a video on how to control all of this. I've been wondering if there's a need to keep all the zones in sync so you're not using one to cool/heat the other's spaces.
Also less than patiently waiting for the video on your plumbing and getting the low volume to hot water system worked out.
Nope. No need to keep them in sync. In fact, the ones that are hooked to the City Mult VRF system could even be cooling in one zone, whilst heating in the other! Fantastic technology
@@Floridaman8783 but doesn't that put additional load on the systems?
I have two hvac units and I try to keep them at the same temperature, when they aren't reasonably isolated (there's a door that separates the two parts of the house, but it's open during the day.)
If the front is trying to heat, and it's sucking the colder air from the back, doesn't that reduce efficiency overall?
@@s7726 Yes & no but not necessary. Typically when we see ppl running one in heat/1 in cool - they're each off a different zone obviously. But typically seperate areas.
If you've got, say grandma living at your house. And she's always cold in her room? Her zone could be running in heat. Meanwhile, I'm in another zone upstairs, I'm always hot. So I'm running my air handler or mini split or cassette in cooling. Not much effect.
I suppose, yes, if you had 2 big zones right next to each other they could somewhat work against one another. But, that's just it - the name of the game here is comfort. Its about being able to TRULY control your comfort. And, quite frankly, these systems are so efficient - you really wouldn't notice it.
11:30 No mention of thermal mass in the house to regulate a more constant temperature.
.6, I hope the return is large enough especially with the pressure drop in that filter. Remember you need to get the air before you can supply it. Also, let's look at the supply side, I see lots of turns on the round duct, do some of them total .6 ?
Very wise going steel ducting.
Really interesting stuff! Wish my house was as advanced. I had my house built in 2018 but the builder was not a custom builder and offered no HVAC upgrades, so stuck with a standard 14 SEER single-stage AC + single stage 92% efficient furnace (Goodman equipment). I'm having some issues with humidity control (having to over run the AC which I hate). Also, they have the house ventilating with a bathroom fan that turns itself on intermittently. Not happy with any of that.
A real Risinger Passivhaus in Austin should never need more than the waste heat from the refrigerator compressor in your kitchen.
Nope, he's going to duct off the refrigerator and through a diverter valve it will go outside in summer or divert into the house in winter.
So exhaust the BTUs or use the BTUs.
Or maybe he'll pipe the discharge out of the refrigerator compressor and use the high temp refrigerant to preheat the water going into the water heater.
Or.....
Its all cooling and dehumidification in a well insulated house. Heat is still required, but not the size driver
@@bobjoatmon1993 He's in so much money already, why not get a commercial unit where the compressor outside? You know he is going to get (or be given) some super expensive high end appliances.
Speaking of refrigerators, Why don't they put an ac vent behind the fridge? It would move the hot air off the condenser away from the unit.
@@greggcollins4215 probably because you want the cold air closest to where the people are so they feel it?
I was waiting to see the heat recovery system. Also, not much was mentioned in the fresh air supply system. How is the fresh air supply distributed on the ground floor? How would the bathroom exhaust fan be controlled? How about the kitchen extractor hood? Perhaps to be seen in the next episode!
That was covered in a previous episode czcams.com/video/OrG7oG8Tvp8/video.html
Kimberly should’ve mentioned that by ACCA manual J standards you’re not allowed to size your main AC system for specific events, hence the extra unit with sidewall grilles. Also not allowed is tying the garage system when it has ducts to the living space, not just because “it’s a big no-no”. I have clients and even worse, HVAC contractors that want to do this on a regular basis.
This being said, I don’t see why you’d need a separate condenser for the garage unit if it’s a different head.
Thanks for the in depth review. 3 years ago I wanted the unit you have in the attic, with similar loading (360 sq ft: a bedroom and 2 baths, zone 5) but was told, by my Mitsubishi diamond dealer, that it would not have enough static pressure (I have fewer runs than you have).
Could you include all of the inputs to your manual J? Things like hot/ cold temperature for the design load. Sq ft of walls, windows, etc.
This was a great video. I really appreciate the level of detail.
They make a high static unit but the amount of duct in this video is probably to much. He talked about the manual J needs to talk about the manual D. Seriously its a book.
@@TurkeyLeggings he usually uses a professional hvac designer who knows his stuff, and does both the J and D. I just wanted to see the numbers, as I’m quite sure the lower static pressure model would have been perfectly adequate in my case.
Matt, I live in mexico, it gets really hot here in summer. The standard way to do ac is to put a minisplit unit in your bedroom, and in your living room if you have the money. Living rooms usually have fans on the ceiling.
What's your opinion on that?
Mexico homes are built with brick and concrete. There is no room for ducting and central ventilation. Mini splits are your only choice.
@@JamesG1126 makes sense!
Just installed my Mitsubishi great unit thanks to you sir. Question is why do you insulate the supply ducts if there inside conditioned space?
The attic where the equipment is, is not a conditioned space. As you can see, the roof is not insulated. It's best to insulate the ducts to help them maintain the temperature of the air they are carrying and to keep them from getting condensation on them which could then run off.
You make me want to build a new house so that I can do things like this right. Matt, 1% of the days above 100 would be 3.65 days. We have more 100 degrees days here in Plano. Pretty sure you do there in Austin.
Yeah more like 35 average and another 100 over 85% .
I think he meant 1% of time. Not days. Surely its not 100 for 24 hours a day. It’d be a few hours in the middle of the day / afternoon.
@@jackgibbons6013 Let me introduce you to Texas, where many locations will have summers consisting of weeks of temps that never drop below 89 at night and it is 100⁰+ for 12-16 hours a day. And just as an extra kick in the gut, a large portion of the state has humidity in the 85-99% range to go with those temps.
Hi Matt, at the end of the video... how are you going to seal the freon lines? Will you seal to both, to the black tubing and to the copper pipe? Just wondering if you could make a video about that also. Happy New Year to you and your family!
Oh, Dude! You are talking my talk! Trane would have been my thought for an American domestic partner, and lo and behold it has come to pass! Matt, I've been a Trane fan boi for a long time; if Trane will co brand and distribute this gear, share their well built training and support, I'm in. If only I hadn't retired nearly a decade ago. But that is OK- all the local companies will have great sources for advice and training for their staffs and be well able to assure customers of quality now and five, ten or more years down the road. Awesome! And they don't even pay me money; the percentage of warrantee work was always lowest with my Trane installations- ALWAYS. That was and still is money in the bank!
I believe Trane is partnered with Mitsubishi on their own VRF systems
Mitsubishi is the best. That system is what my company installs every day. The one flaw you have is the type of AHU you used. Those pefyp AHU ( pancake style) are complete unserviceable. Can’t get to the coil, can’t get to the fan motor. It’s actually easier and cheaper to just replace the entire AHU. I now refuse to install that AHU and only install the cased AHU which is the PVFY style in the Mitsubishi line.
Other than that great job by you mechanical contractor.
Explain your ducts and dampers installation for each duct
Another benefit of having a multi unite system is in a power outage you can run one system (usually the most central) off of a generator without needing to heat or cool your entire home. saving on fuel and the coast of a larger generator.
Got it this is for heating and cooling.
Hi Matt, I understand that you have used Mitsubishi for quite a long time. Can you walk us why you chose Mitsubishi v/s Zehnder. You have had quite happy to talk about Zehnder in a previous video,
The penalty you get from the fresh air ventilation on the load calculation could be way worse. Imagine if he didn’t have an ERV on the fresh air intake. That would be constant blowing 100 degree air. I wish they had described that in better detail instead of making the “penalty” sound worse than it is.
The heat gain from the fresh air intake is a known number because it is mechanically controlled. If they performed a load calc on a leaky house, they have to make an assumption about how much air is leaking in. Once the house is built and the blower door test is done, the penalty from air leaks could be way worse than the previous assumption was during the design phase. But at that point you’d have to redesign the hvac system or just tolerate an uncomfortable house.
very informative how do you handle bathrooms are their heads in there.
Did you do a blower door test to determine the air changes per hour as an input to mechanical design?
@mattrisinger Can you share a diagram that shows the VRF systems and the Zenhder system together?
Great video. Matt engraves his pocket knife?
You should sell. (or just give your fans) copies of your plans, including all the material you use - that way we can build out own Risinger!
Can you speak to the span or distance of line-sets on mini-split systems; my understanding is that there's a cap.
I am 99% certain that the line set on this system uses a Mitsubishi Branch Box to optimize the line set length. In a house this size, line set length is not a limitation.
.6 SP is not much but it's made for proper duct systems which I would say most homes don't have and they should because with any equipment bad SP will kill efficiency. High SP restrict CFM airflow, it's easy to get low SP, or fix, but it's amazing how most HVAC installs don't even measure it, shameful.
I'm surprised he didn't go with a Daikin FIT communicating system. Super low noise at around 56dba full tilt for the condenser and fully communicating with the ability to tie in fresh air ventilation/ dehumidifiers also.
Daikin communicating system is needlessly more complex and less reliable. And no quieter than Mitsubishi. I would choose Mitsubishi every time.
The last time I looked at Mitsubishi splits the efficiency of INDIVIDUAL condensers was MUCH HIGHER... into the 35 SEER range. The multiple units that run more than one air handler topped out at around 18 SEER. Wouldn't it be cost effective for INDIVIDUAL condensers for each handler?
Great video.. one question.. I didn't hear any discussion of humidifiers? Don't you need one of these to humidify the air in the winter? In keeping with this apparent omission, I noticed the heating load chart was missing Latent Loss (which would be heat required to add humidity in the winter). If I'm reading correctly, the Sensible Heat and Latent Heat were the Cooling Loads; and then Sensible Loss and Latent Loss should produce the Net Heating Loads.
I have a 12k mini split downstairs, one 18k upstairs. Super tiny electric bills here in the Pacific Northwest for the last 5 years. And my units are Pioneer and Gree eBay cheapos.
I'm about to start designing the HVAC system in my 150 year old 4,000sqft farmhouse. I wonder if I could get some reps to come out. It would be a great showcase project.
look into MrCool DIY multi-zone systems. aside from the electrical, which I recommend having done by a pro, you can install 3-4 zones in about as long as it takes you to snake the cables/linesets through the walls/attic. there is really nothing to it. if you're handy enough to change a light fixture and a faucet, then you're handy enough to install a DIY Multi. I have an old drafty house and the energy savings are huge because I can have a nice comfortable temperature in the rooms I want while letting the others be 10 degrees closer to outside temp. no need to cool the whole house to have a comfortable sleeping temperature.
Search google for Mitsubishi residential Hvac plus your zipcode. You will get a list of certified designing contractors. If they don’t start with a heat load study, move onto the next contractor.
thank you for this video, this helps me a lot.
i'm hoping matt or somebody from his team would answer this question...at what point during the build did they do a blower door test to be able to have that data to include in the "Basis of Design" to have a more accurate load calculation?? ...it says Building Infiltration rate (ACH50) is 1 on that big sheet
Matt, great video lots of good info, but you didn't mention the ductwork, which looks like it may be metal-wrapped ductwork, most homes today use flex ductwork, in this video is the ductwork metal and why?
I have lived in Japan for 13 years with those types of system. From my experience mini split systems suck. My Japanese wife loves American HVAC systems lol.
I totally agree. They are nasty and don’t have good filtration, breed mold in Florida and don’t last for long.
Those types of systems are typically older technology. The newer systems are much better and assuming you don't need a furnace, the ducted minisplit heat pump is a great option.
When PA built the cabin he did a study just like this to determine the size of fireplace he would need.
Does the Man-J take into consideration factors like heat and humidity generated by cooking activity and heat from appliances? Wouldn't you want more fresh air exchange in the kitchen? Great stuff!
Yes - in every load calc that is ACCA or AHSRAE certified it will allow you to click on what the space is being used for- even multiple types of kitchens bc some have two fridges vs one, range with exhaust etc, even down to how many ppl usually occupy the space- all contribute to the heating /cooling load
@@TheJPPowell Excellent.
Too many people look at short term costs rather than long term savings.
Short term thinking ends up costing more money.
Its expensive to be poor.
If you can afford the house you can afford to roll a little more into the mortgage. Unless your just selling then it’s a matter of your environmental consciousness
There is also information asymmetry; even if I want to build a house like this, I can't find any information on how much it would truly cost and how much it would save me.
@@Th3120ck Many utility companies offer a home energy audit. I had one done with a blower door test. I implemented the air sealing recommendations and reduced by utility bills by 30% the following month and every month there after. There is a lot of information about saving energy available if you look for it.
@@MarkkuS Short term thinking will make and keep you poor.
Did you ever consider ground source heat pumps? Seems it would be quieter for outdoor spaces, more energy efficient, and lower maintenance...
Mitsubishi and Trane together? An odd match but one that seems to be made in Heaven! Or Tokyo at least lol Good to have options since I'm sure that for some builds a "normal" Trane install would fit better.
Daikin and Goodman are also together to catch the higher end market segment. Although I don't know if they are integrated with their distributor and vendor network as Trane and Mistu did.
this HVAC system will pay for itself in no less than 2500 years
HVAC systems don't pay for themselves. They provide heat and cooling.
Nice install job. No auxiliary drain pan with a float switch below that unit? (It looks like they aren't finished with the install yet).
I'm 7 minutes in and my brain is full.
What's the advantage of having a separate AC system and Ventilation system? Could you not incorporate a heating/cooling coil into the HRU and duct the cooled/heated air. Just seems like a lot of additional ductwork and equipment?
I am curious how your heating system held up with the crazy winter storm Texas had this past year? I hope it worked okay for you.
Trusted your videos for years... all until you put cream in your coffee... ;)
Hey man, not all of us like coffee you can use as pen ink. 😂