I HATE Mitsubishi MiniSplits
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- čas přidán 17. 06. 2024
- Why I hate Mitsubishi mini-splits? even though they are the better built heating and cooling comfort system? It was because of the poor training I received from there Kentucky training center. I took the M&P and the City Multi class. They used someone that was being trained to be a trainer and when the trainer didn't come back on the last day it's obvious they failed. Yep! My class was a sacrificial lamb, which resulted in a total waste of our time. See Part Two the return trip • I Still Hate Mitsubish...
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00:00 I hate Mitsubishi mini splits
00:40 I think we have a refrigerant leak
01:47 Start searching for refrigerant leaks
02:01 High-efficiency costs reliability
04:33 Didn't save money with mini split
05:53 How to factory settings to charge it
06:55 Starting system vitals
08:04 How I'm going to recharge it
10:23 This little piggy went wee, wee, wee
11:25 Thanks to look out for
11:46 Fluke 376FC meter
12:05 verifying compressor speed
12:50 Fluke 902 FC versus the 376 FC
13:16 Verify, temperature rise and drop a crossed coils
14:30 Compressors going faster - Zábava
My main problem is taking apart head units on any mini split. Huge pain in the ass and you always feel like you're gonna break something
Basically overpriced Throw away units it’s sad and working on them sucks
Agreed, I damn plastic is so brittle especially if it’s been right by a window all it’s life.
100%
I used clean the air conditioners at my old job i was a maintenance worker at
Well it isn't a city multi it's a bogus residential pladtic ductless heads made to look good with fancy plastics just like mercedes bmw & especially well overrated piece of junk teslas that will kill us
I have 3 Mitsubishi h2i units been using for both heat and cooling. Highest heating bill was 110.00 month of January. These are great for heat !
I installed a 9,000 btu Mitsubishi Hyper heat during covid as I had to work from a windowless basement office and absolutely love it. So quiet and powerful and did not even think about it as a heat pump until winter we had a deep cold snap and my office was so toasty kids were always in it. Installing a 12k version in the living room this week and want to install a 3 zone for the upstairs bedrooms next year. Have only ever had window units and hate them all. Nothing but praise so far. I did hvac work before moving to Cisco networking so install was very easy. Will se how they are a few years from now as that will be the real test!
There great when they work, trying to decide if a control board or another electronic device is truly bad is the problem. They don't have a cut and dry procedure for things.
@@HVACRSurvival Yes I fully agree. So many modern appliances have excessive amounts of electronics it makes them nearly impossible to repair. I have been looking through the service manual for my Split system and while it has flowcharts and such I am sure an actual failure will not be straight forward. As an example my flare was leaking and a year later the error code it gave made no sense but it was just low on gas.
My advice is single zone. If you just have 3 head units upstairs, get a 2 zone and then get the master bedroom it’s own zone. If something goes wrong, your entire upstairs will have something. They do make 6k btu units too, in the Hyperheat only from what I’ve seen, and they perform!
@@SovereignTroll I did not install this system I'm just the service tech. Far as selling them a power conditioner know I did not do that nor do I carry one on the truck to sell them. I'm still waiting on them to approve the repair.
@@HVACRSurvivalFujitsu seems to be coming up with very nice training. Attended a class and was impressed with the simple diagnosis’ instructions and repair instructions. All on their app. Makes life a lot easier.
Nice video Rick, I spent about 2 months in Findley Ohio working at an Iams Dogfood plant and everyone had a pond in their yard. I asked one of the guys what was up with all the ponds and he said if the homeowner had a pond it decreased their homeowners insurance.
Sounds correct, were all volunteer fire departments around here unless you're in town with city water.
yeah, because fire trucks can pump from them. problem is many people also have fireplaces and wood burners, which jacks the rates back high. lol
What about the extra danger of a small child drowning? Seems like that would be a much greater risk. Maybe those departments should invest in tankers and drop tanks instead.
Unless some kids drowns in it, you could get sued for open water.... no fence...
This is such a great channel. Bringing back all the memories and I loved this work but sooo happy I left the industry for I.T. lol.
😂👍👍
I believe you can use the EOS (Emergency Operation) switch on the evaporators to run in '100%' mode. One press for cooling, 2 for heating.
I think you're correct, it's been so long since I've done it I don't remember. I don't work on these very often anymore. And I'm okay with that 😁
Just did a compressor on one. The back nut you’ve got to do blind. Sooo much fun doing those. Went to the last class on them. Learned a lot on the newer ones. Depends on who’s giving the class. Some are just a waste of time.
I agree, everything is dependent on who's teaching and what are they have a passion, or an ability to do it
Ive seen the same powerpoint so many times
How's LG
I did the diamond dealer class in Kentucky 15 years ago did not learn munch I got OJT and I charge with the same method you do fantastic video 👍👍👍👀🇺🇸
I hope others leave comments saying the same thing about the poor training. Maybe they will change things.
Talk about a pain! Thanks for another great video Rick!
I went through their city multi training in Atlanta and it was extremely informative
That might have been ran by Ralph? The one I had was in Kentucky and was a joke.
Scott Tallman was my instructor in Atlanta
Bet the other guy you talked to about the class was Ralph Wolff, he’s awesome teacher. We love Mitsubishi. That’s almost all I work on. We have awesome support, good training and good recourses
I would like to see he’s class! 👍👍👍
We had a Mitsubishi MiniSplit that lasted our family 18 years. Ran it summer and winter, no issues. No training for install, was a total DIY job. We only replaced it when it became impossible to repair. As someone else commented, Mini's were marketed for DIY'ers and we loved ours. Our neighbor, a refrigerant repairman who worked on commercial systems hated the Mini Splits too, was never really sure why.
Because he didn't know how to work on them
@@HVACRTECH-83 not true at all, I’m in the trade and most guys I talk to hate working on them. Stupid arrogant comment
Cody D no not arrogant at all, I'm pretty good at working on them and stay up to date on them as well, I don't hate working on them and I know they're fantastic. It's people like you and your buddies that just make me and other real techs look that much better so not sure how that's arrogant. Oh well
@@HVACRTECH-83that may be true BUT, they purposefully made a simple thing so complex, and everyone of them operate differently from the next.
@hvac01453 well, they have to be as complex as they are to do what they do so efficiently. When they first came around back in the day, they were alot more simple designs, but also half the seer ratings and cop's and couldn't operate anywhere near the low ambient temps they achieve today in heat mode. Ya the multiple circuit boards can get complicated if you're having board issues. Mitsubishi has some basic to advanced courses you can attend that will allow you to become more proficient with them. I highly suggest them to anyone who hates working on them. I used to be one of those techs as well who hated working on them. Because I didn't know enough about them. I get it. But the knowledge is out there available to who wants it.
Mine is brand new, it doesn’t sound like that at all! Mine doesn’t make any noise whatsoever. The little condensate pumps are the noisiest parts, and those just sound like an irritating kid trying to suck up the last bit of soda from a straw. My outdoor unit is (virtually) silent..no ductwork, so efficiency is fantastic. I’m still trying to figure out if I should let it run continuously on auto or reprogram it to stop when temp is reached. I’d encourage you to live these newer units, because I’m so blown away by mine..
This was a medium price range unit (I believe), when you get into the P series, they are higher quality. Also, anything in the hyper-heat model range is really efficient. Also don't forget I had the cover off so you're gonna hear more noise from the compressor specially, when it's running at the high rpm, it was running.
MINE IS 15 YEARS OLD (MR.SLIM) AND QUIET AS A MOUSE. KEEP THE FILTERS AND OUTDOOR COIL CLEAN AND HAVE NEVER HAD AN ISSUE. NOW MY TWO YORK SPLIT SYSTEMS THAT WENT IN AT THE SAME TIME WERE ABSOLUTE DISASTERS. GRRRRR.........
We try to avoid installing multi head outdoor units, there are always problems with them. Unless the customers *REALLY* want a single unit outdoors, even after telling them all the problems they're gonna have.
Let alone that 2 single split are cheaper than a dual split !
I was curious about the advantages vs downsides of multi indoor/single outdoor. I just had two separate single in/single out units installed at my home and after the fact I thought "why didnt I do one outside unit with multiple inside AND room to expand?".
Why is that? Thinking about installing a four zone Mitsubishi unit at my house.
The frequency on these inverter compressors is usually quite high since their motors are not two pole but more.
I would say most of them are four pole, so 60Hz would only give you 1800 RPM, 150Hz will be 4500 RPM.
Although I have encountered ones with six poles and even eight poles.
Carrier inverters can hit 7500rpm
I worked in the field for a number of years and most of the time the prior HVAC TECH did a turdly job. Either the flare was bad, the soldering or brazing was poorly done, the use of some cheap weird mix of gases that just do not work correctly or the system was charged to the max when all that was needed was a blower belt. I just do not understand why taking pride in one's work is so hard to find. I feel your pain fella.
Thanks for sharing👍👍. I agree, it shouldn't be thought of as harder to do a job correct. 🤷
@@HVACRSurvival Thank you for your honesty and integrity on the JOB !!!
@@victoryfirst2878what honesty and integrity? His company installed an HVAC system that leaks
I like your method of practical charging. Once you fix all the leaks, then it would make sense to pump it down and weigh in a new charge.
That's what I plan on doing 👍👍
@@HVACRSurvivalcan you fix the leaks or do you need to replace the head unit?
@@HVACRSurvival I would really like to see your process for fixing the leaks, recovering the charge, pumping it down, and then weighing in the new charge.... which port do you use. On the unit you are working with it appears there is a charge port between the accumulator and the compressor.... did you use that for your gauges?
Great video man. Love Mitsubishi myself as our hyperheat three head is our only heat source all winter in New Hampshire. They seem to last forever up here. I have however seen two Daiken systems leaking and failed under 3 years each this year!
Thanks for the info! I finally returned there last week to replace those coils.
imagine using electric heating when you have heatpumps
Old people who don't understand.
@AustinMichael what don't we understand? I am 71 and love my mini splits and when they wear out I will buy more.
They feel the electric more and have used it for years and more comfortable with it. If they don’t mind the bill so be it
Probably feels warmer .. esp if these units started leaking a while ago.. you will lose heating long before you lose cooling in a slow leak minisplit. If you live up north having the heat come out of the ceilings sucks. You get get hot face and icy cold feet.. those wall heads will blow it right in your face.. I put Fujitsu mini in my house.. ducted ones with floor registers .. backed by gas heat. Gas heat comes on below 20F so I can feel nice n toasty.. I hate cold so I keep my house quite warm. Above 20 the heat pumps rock. I worked on a lot of different systems over the years but I can sympathize with them. Although I’d probably still use the heat pump functions on milder days ..
Like he said, "probably blowing cold air". Even 80 degree air blowing on a 98.6F body is going to feel cold in a ~65F room. We have an air handler in an unclimatized attic. You can't adjust the fan runtime, after the compressor shuts off. It's like 5 minutes, fixed. Also, it turs on immediately when the compressor fires. So, that obviously means some cold air, too. It would've been nice for the delay to be on the front end and a more rapid fan shutdown, at the back.
I'm not at all down on heat pumps. Just think they need more adjustability, especially for those replacing A/C units in hot/cold attics.
I wonder if the connections were leaking at the back of the indoors and there was a gentle draft from the cutouts blowing the refrigerant through? Most remotes usually send every setting at once, you can cover the IR with your hand and send everything on the last press. Good for setting multiple units or not waking people up with furious beeping
Another amazing video Rick !
All manuals are online, DSB with all installed equipment and line lengths for charge calculation. There's also Maintenance tool for the M&P product line too.
Yeah I know, I hate reading a half inch book to learn things that I should already know. I went through the two day class m&p, and the three or four day City multi
I worked with hi vacuum systems. Flare fittings not good. VCR type fittings would work to prevent leaks. Or solder the connection.
I'll take a bad part over a leak anyday. Espically on a mini- split.
Can’t speak to working on them, but owning one so far is freaking amazing. I went from a swamp cooler to Star Trek technology. I had a Diamond dealer install, my ceilings were all open, so it made it easier. Slightly different temps in each room is awesome, so, so quiet..
Well they are extremely expensive when they break, parts are not usually in stock. They are a expensive window unit.
They are great when they work. When they break or have issues is when we (the techs) and homeowners start getting angry.
If you are impressed with those, you'd feel like you were in heaven with a real heat pump system. I can't even tell if it's 80 or 10 outside without sticking my head out the door. You aren't going to like them when you wait a month or two for a part. Those things are very brand specific parts. Central home systems are 90 percent universal fitting parts. I can fix 98 percent of the service calls during the first trip on regular systems. I fix about 10 percent of the mini splits on the first trip.
@@Bryan-Hensley I don’t understand..it is a “real” heat pump. I happen to already have a Trane XV95, but the ductwork wasn’t right for AC, (swamp cooler was great for two decades, until a surge or short caused an attic fire) so I opted for the Mitsubishi as primary cooling, and backup heat
@@johncspine2787 I thought it was your only heat.
What about their free tech support site. Mylink I think it's called. The class I went too they just showed us where to find the service info on the site. The trainer also said its ok to put nylog on the backside of the flare to keep the nut from skipping. I'm sure you know that already but in case you didn't. Good video!
You cant charge precisely by subcool and superheat, however they can still be indicators of low charge etc. i.e. all EEV's wide open and superheat is high.
For a quick charge to get a system up, running all IDUs at full tilt and getting the superheat to correct on all will get in the ballpark for minimum charge.
What was left in a system that low could be fractioned R410. So who knows what blend you wind up with without a recover and recharge with all new R410
We quoted new refrigerant when we are going back, I don't know how you could rely on superheat when the electronic expansion valve is going to open and close to maintain whatever superheat is calculated at once. However sub cooling is going to tell you whether you have enough available liquid to even do the work. That's why I went with subcooling. You're not going to find in any of their books what the subcooling should be, like I explained in the video I am just getting it as close as possible and it worked. It'll get recovered and new weight in when we're done.
@@HVACRSurvival I like your reasoning.... I'd do the same. Get the system pressurized enough to do a good leak detection job. Then, when you have the parts/time to properly fix the leak...THAT is the time to do the fancy suck-it-down, weigh-it-in process. I look forward to your video showing the leak fix job, then the fancy stuff... 🙂
Thanks for your great video... BTW, the reason so many flares are an issue is because (IMHO) not enough installers know what a torque wrench is, nor how to use it on the flare joints.
(just my opinion of course) ....but I've seen enough sloppyness by installers ...
Splits refrigerant charge is easy to work out, factory charge will be ok to cover a set distance between indoor to outdoor unit, then additional is worked out on liquid line length, X amount of grams per metre , as per manufacturer instructions
Good vid as usual ... Thx Sir ...
4 pole motor on the unit, so divide the measured hertz by 2 , to find the rotational speed of compressor..
The service manual will tell you the number of poles the compressor.motor has, usually 4...
There a pretty sound piece of kit, like all ac units the last few years, coils.leak on most of them, thinner copper in coils etc etc....
Felt bad for the old boy until I saw the 1,000 acres and backyard pond.
Country folk don't spend crazy money like city folk do. $200-$350 can get you a real nice place here. It use to be lower until recently
they should try planting some trees instead of useless grass
That's farm ground and he doesn't own that. If you like the food you eat I think you wouldn't want them to plant trees.
@@HVACRSurvival @hillppari get his food from the store.
I have yet to ever talk to a service tech that liked mini splits.
Good stuff Rick.👍
This is exactly why I do not install one system on larger or two story homes. Because it’s always an emergency when the ONLY one goes out. also, never install mini splits if you can put a central system in. Also, I never work on anyone else’s but my own mini splits. Too many jackleg DIY’ers out there.
It’s not just the DIY’ers.
Exactly, all my calls have been installed by a company.
@@kevinmills5293 Exactly. I was forced to become a "jackleg." Couldn't get a call back from "reputable" companies despite wanting multiple units installed - I am not calling after a third request for a quote. I did hear back from the white truck meth heads wanting me to fund their new bass boat. Bought my own tools. F'em all. This shit ain't rocket science and I suspect I have more attention to detail than most.
Yeah, until the AC company quotes you $15-18K for a furnace/ac upgrade when the equipment cost is sub $5K... I had something in my a$$ when I had a colonoscopy but no damn glorified plumber is gonna do that. Companies that charge like that should be wearing a mask and carrying a gun...
If you're buying basic stuff you might be lucky if it's five grand.
I love Mitsubishi as a customer, ducted with one ceiling cassette in my home gym, five zones, works great City Multi unit outside. Installed and serviced by a Mitsubishi Diamond company.
If you truly have a city moldy then you have one of their absolute best ones. And we're a diamond dealer as well.
What do you think of the P units /indoor air handlers? @@HVACRSurvival
Awesome video. Thank you for that. Question: I found after releasing the refrigerant into my unit that the adapter I was using wasn't depressing the Schrader valve. So basically, I believe I released the refrigerant into lines that weren't vacuumed. The unit functioned ok for a little while now it doesn't work at all. Can u please tell me what I need to do to fix the problem? Do I need to evacuate the whole system and start all over at the vacuum stage? Is there a way to test and make sure that is what I did? Thank you!
Supposed to have your EPA license to work with refrigerant. If you have your gauges on the system and it kicks on and they don't start changing position chances are the compressor is not running. If you think you've got non-condensables in the system then the correct thing to do would be recover the refrigerant then vacuum the system down to 500 microns or less and be sure that it holds down there, then recharge with the factory charge amount.
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
🤜🤛👍👍
I liked this video, it’s annoying how commenters love to criticize and say “oh no recover it and weigh it back in!” But that’s not realistic with many of our time frames. You got ‘em taken care of 👍🏻
Everyone has a butthole and an opinion 😆✌️✌️
I actually did like your video and learned a couple of things to use for my next install coming this week . Thank you sir
What was it you took away?
@@HVACRSurvival don’t sell mits hahahah
@@HVACRSurvival no but seriously , just to help out future techs to start writing my lengths on the inside of the panels to make it easier for charging purposes . To check incoming and outgoing for delta temp . Just a couple small things I need to watch it again there’s more good info just can’t remember it right now
Awesome, the total line length would be great to know 👍👍
i did a mrcool DIY and it heated and cooled like a beast for over a year still on trailer its on but since moved and wish i could take it with me but i plan on getting another one for sure.
Do they give you the option out of the evaporator/ blower side?
@@Michael-qy1jz sorry dont quite understand?
@@shiroken0 the way it shows to route the evap lines is out the back and through the wall, so I was wondering if it gives you the option to route the lines out the sides, left or right side? I hear some of these mini splits do.
@@Michael-qy1jz yes you can normally route out the right side of unit all you got to do is cut the notch out.
@@shiroken0 thanks!
Great job! Question, at 12:03, what legs did you check for the frequencies?
My amp clamp measures frequency through the amp meter, I was on the compressor side after the inverter.
Yea sometimes its better replacing but good tech support
Only issues I've had with both a Mitsubishi Heavy Industries and a Mitsubishi Electric was Indonesian House Geckoes shorting out the outdoor unit power supply boards. At least the parts supplies are good even for old units, had a 10 year old Panasonic also fried by Geckoes and all parts were ONR. Mitsubishi were more then happy to sell me parts just for a princely sum 😂
They love selling parts😂👍👍
I support a large CitiMulti system in hawaii and geckos are death to these units. You would think Mitsu would have a better solution as they sell to many tropical locations. We try to seal up all the cable and refrigerant entry holes with conduit duct seal which helps....kind of...
I found a brand new Mitsubishi American Standard 2 ton outdoor mini split. It’s the outdoor unit only. I’m looking for an indoor unit and wondering do I have to use the same model or can I use a different model for the air handler. My model is NAXS or NV series. I can only find models that are MSY or Trane NTXS. Do I have options or do I have to get the correlating air handler model???
Great video by the way
There are specific evaporators that work with certain outside units.
17 year field service tech here. You are wrong, my man. Mitsubishi makes the highest quality mini-splits out there. That’s not to say they don’t have their share of failures, but when it comes to overall reliability and SERVICEABILITY, there is no better manufacturer out there.
As a service technician, we usually listen and you did not listen. I never said the equipment was shit. I said the training sucked ass. I called out the Kentucky branch because they needed their asses handed to them for doing such a shit job. 68,000+ people watch that video so if that don’t embarrass their asses for their piss poor training then I don’t know what will.
I love my heat pumps, but I do wish they were a bit more DIY as far as repairs. Luckily they haven't broken yet over the 4 years I have had them.
Our Fujitsu is almost 13 years old no issue🤞 but I worry when it does it’s gonna be bad 😭
I feel bad now. The number of those I used to spec😀
Hello Rick, I'm need some Schrader valves on my r-22 ac, would they be 1/4", I have a core tool, using brass cap now but sniffer shows leaky on low side. Going to order usa bestec ones just making sure 1/4" 20 yr old heil ICP HP, Thank you.
The class in Dallas, TX was good.
we are about to hit the 105's here in austin texas for 1 week or so
Geez. It's in the 67-72 range again here
I don’t like the mini-splits and there not going away and these VRF units are a pain because I just don’t see a lot of these units learn how they work and then you don’t see one for a bit nice video brother
Very true, their energy efficient BUT with the cost when they fails...offset that savings in my mind.
Speaking the truth brother
The title is definitely why i watched lol.
I currently have a pending half finished commercial Mitsubishi install that i have no idea how I'm gonna finish.
Apparently the Miami Beach code inspectors want a interlocked motorized fresh air damper to be installed with the system....fml.
Ive never had a single second of any mini split training so i have no idea how to make the mini split (with all its weird modulating DC voltage) work with the available 24 volt AC (alternating current) motorized dampers.
In short I'm not currently a fan either lol
You could use a current relay to detect when the unit is running and control your dampers with that.
@@mrfrenzy. that's a very interesting idea.
I've seen them being used on Copeland compressors for overcurrent protection (normally closed contacts that open on overcurrent).
Is there a normally open version that closes when it senses a particular current draw? Or maybe there's an adjustable version where you can set the exact amperage when you want it to close the contacts?
Ill definitely look into it though. Thank you for the idea.
I appreciate your videos heard you mention training how can I sign up for classes like that I’m in socal?
Wherever they sell the equipment would be the place to ask. That’s how I got sent to the place I went to. I’m in ohio so I don’t know much about locations outside my area.
@@HVACRSurvival I appreciate that thanks 🙏🏽
I feel like you should be able to max everything, as is typical for setting the charge. Is there not a manual force?
Yes or No?
That's why I turned it down further than just making a call for cool. Like I said they don't recommend doing it the way I did.
We’ve been selling Mitsubishi for well over 10 years now and really haven’t had too many problems, mainly leaking flares. Unfortunately the installers are unbelievably rammy and set in their ways (definition of insanity doing the same thing over again expecting a different result) they work incredibly well but man you just can’t get in there to work on them. Im sure you know about my link drive?
Yeah, I'm a hands on person that doesn't learn from a manual.
Mylinkdrive is a must have for any service guy, installer, salesman, designer etc. All the documentation in one place
I have a similar Mitsubishi Electric, one outdoor one indoor unit. Think it's MUZ/MSZ FD35 model. Installed 2011 and still going strong. Gives good warm in the winter when it's -20°C.
They fail manual J load calculation. If you have the capacity to keep the house warm at -20 you are extremely oversized for summer..
@@Bryan-Hensley I'm in northern Europe, we actually mainly use them for heating, the cooling is just a bonus
@@justme5384 I've thought about setting up two heat pumps. One with only the summer capacity then both for full winter capacity. I've also thought about splitting it into three units with the total capacity combined to the winter needs and use them as staged summer cooling and staged winter heating.
@@Bryan-Hensley Well, that depends. For each room I'd need around a 9k unit, but since they can ramp down to around 1200 btus, they work just fine for cooling.
@@sprockkets it's the heating that is the issue. They'll work fine for AC only
how old was this system? they havent been selling these indoor units for at least 10 years in europe.
@6:43 ish....."lets pump it full of love" lol!! Indeed!!
My personal choice for an AC system is a variable speed communicating central AC system. You still get consistent room temperature and humidity levels just like you would a mini split. The Condenser unit on a communicating variable speed communicating system is just like a traditional central AC system but, has a VFD instead of a contactor and dual-run capacitor.
Sounds like a Carrier Infinity system. That's what we sell but we also sell this stuff too.
VFDs suck. They're made with cheap Chinese parts and even cheaper Chinese labor, a major point of failure.
It really all depends, sometimes you just can't get ductowrk into the space effectively and that's where mini-splits come in.
If they are using baseboard for heat instead of the mini split, they bought a unit from someone that sold them the wrong crap. Our mini split had no issues heating when the temp outside was at 3F.
You must not be a service tech and likely not an elderly person. I heard the same complaint from customers that purchased an high efficiency gas furnace when they first came out. Simply said, people don’t like change and if you’re on blood thinners everything feels colder. You’re also assuming that the customer picked the top options that they could’ve picked, that was not a hyper heat system so I would say you’re assumption is missing the necessary information to make factual based opinion.
The guy said baseboard costs about the same as the HP. He is smoking something.
🤷 not my money
@@HVACRSurvivalyeah not your job. Give it up, you suck.
But did you get the Lasso with that meter that you bought off marketplace?
I got it all, with the case. I already had one thanks to Fluke swapping it out for the shitty Amp-probe meter that I had to send back twice,
I bought the cheapest ductless split I could find. It does heating as well as cooling and is supposedly 22 Seer and good down to -15F. Even if i have an issue down the road i still save money over the Mitsubishi or Fujitsu for the same basic function. I can replace a head for half the cost of those. Best part is I can do most of the install myself and only need to call in the HVAC tech for the pressure test and pull down as well as additional 410a. I must admit that these are not DIY for most everyone out there. None are and you are deluding yourself if you think that a Mr. Cool is as an example. I am an electrician and was a general contractor at one time and have installed more than a few from various manufacturers. But I always call in the HVAC tech to handle the pressure test, pull down, and the final charge adjustment.
Good information here👍👍
Well for warranty purposes at least they can feel ok with a DIY unit with those precharged hoses because they don't need to worry about vacuum levels. Of course, they are notorious for leaking.
I self installed a pioneer unit because I'm on a tight budge. Of course, I care about a good install and got to around 40 microns for a vacuum and around 80 after 10 min. And they don't care about needing a tech do the final install - I had a noisy indoor fan motor and they, without issue, sent me a new one with a cheap "bearing" lol. So yea, I can't fathom, other than supposedly good contractor support, why I'd spend almost 2.5x for a Mitsubishi unit.
AC Service tech channel with Craig likes Cooper and Hunter. I'd probably do a central version to replace my gas furnace when it finally dies.
I think all the service guys in my area get a bonus for who has the most call backs.
You would think that sometimes.
Great Video Bro.
Much appreciated 👍👍
I've put a couple in, never worked on had to work on any yet?🤔
I happen to like RE michel mini split training.🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃
I wouldn't pull it all out to put it back either especially without replacing the leakers, wow 🤔
I think that this man could be a body/voice double for coach Bill Belichick, he's also a sold HVAC tech.
✌️🤜🤛👍👍
Nice work 😊
🤜🤛👍👍
Rick, I hate to be a bother about this, and I hope that it isn't somewhere I could have found. But where did you get that rope setup you have? Different than mine, but I am intrigued. Certainly makes light work of roof work. Thank you in advance
What rope are you referring to?
About 10 years ago was deathly afraid of charging these bastards. But in a pinch get them lines cold get a good deltaT and your good lol. Have a hospital with a file room they are persistent on not leak checking once a year I charge her up. They install them once they had a leak fixed it had to change oil on vacuum pump 4 times to get to 500. Anyhow you can get by.
How old was that system? I’m surprised the indoor units were leaking like that unless not properly charged in the first place (contaminated). Will you replace the entire head? If I’m the customer I would be concerned about the other heads, I have two leaking what about the others? You have to drain down replace heads, test and then weigh in the charge, a lot of work. If I’m him I would replace all heads or even replace the entire system with hyper heat to avoid running that baseboard in the winter.
We're just going to replace the evaporator coils themselves, I'm not sure exactly how old it is.
It was the just the flares. Mini split coils doesn't leak.
@@grigorshukerski4689 yep, there perfect, the compressors never fail either. 🤔
The title work.. lol good video tho! I would have watched it either way.
Cool! Thank you!
Put in a 15k ducted hyper heat a year ago myself. best 3k dollars i ever spent and learned a bunch. No official training though LOL
You haven’t had to repair it yet 😁
@@HVACRSurvival I agree repair would definitely be more difficult than Install. Your video makes me want to buy a leak detector 😜
um so if the coil is leaking .... what does recharging the unit do? It's still leaking right?
Correct it gets the air conditioning going again. It's not like it's going to leak out tomorrow, it did what I needed to do to get them by who knows how long it's going to take to get the coil and when we can get back. I actually try to take care of my customers unlike some of these scumbag sons of guns trying to sell them new shit 24/7 cuz they don't know how to fix anything
@HVACR Survival probably can't answer this but is it legal that your company doesn't pay for callbacks? Or is it legal due to signing a contract? Just curious because I've heard you say that in some of your other videos.
I'm commission based on what the company bills. If they can't bill then I can't either. I pays better than being the optional hourly.
SHES A LEAKER MA'MA
The guy that's famous for saying that phrase is a complete idiot.
Ole gundy ain't gonna fix er..
I yell this everytime I see a low system
Great video. Bet you get some attention for this one.
😀👍
It's not about Mitsubishi. These mini splits are promoted in U.S market to be installed by home owners ( DIY ) or at most Craigslist handyman. And of course most home owners don't have proper tools or knowledge to pull deep vacuum required for POE oil and 410A systems. Which in turn results to system becoming acidic and eating the coils and leaking. Just search youtube and see how many of these are installed by homeowners where they pull vacuum through gauges to -30 inches of mercury (which is basically no vacuum ) with a harbor freight 2 cfm pump.
These are very popular in other parts of the world and they work very reliably when installed correctly.
So how much is a Deep vacuum vs imperfect vacuum of 30"?
Dirty little secret is most of these mini splits aren’t POE they are PVE, not as prone to hydrolysis
@@timrob0420 The Poly vinyl ether oil units only came out a couple of years ago. This system was from 2009, that was POE back then. I installed an LG 2.5 ton single head system last year for a computer server room, it had PVE oil in it. 2019 they were still POE.
@@2nickles647 I got mine to around 40 or so microns, and it held around 80 after 10 min. So far for me, no leaks after 3 years, and they are used during the brutal Wisconsin winters.
You say that now but wait when you have to work on Gree
At 8:19 I notice that you are not connecting the red (hi) hose to the service port near the compressor input that has a paper tag label wired to it. (It is crumpled a bit, but visible above and to the left of the top of the compressor.) I thought that tag said it was the port to use for liquid refrigerant charging?..... did I miss something?
I'm not sure what it said at this point it's been 2 months or better. I had the high side and low side that's all I needed. Suction is suction. How am I going to charge liquid while it's running?
@@HVACRSurvival I agree with you, that is why I am confused by Mitsubishi label..... seems to me that you want to put the refrigerant in the way you did it, (Not by the labeled tag next to the compressor).... Thanks
If you're weighing in the complete charge that would be fine. You would charge liquid in through the high side. But while it's running the only way to get it in is through the suction. And since they don't want you to do what I did... that's probably why that sticker was there
I had to watch. Two things I don't like: residential and mini-splits. LOL!
I'm with you, I cut out my complaining. People tend to get pissed.
I thought Mitsubishi was top of the line. What brands do you like for durability?
Rare that they leak. It’s cheaper quality of everything.
@edor Mitsubishi is the better of the group but the training and tech support sucks.
Fujitsu for me. Ameristar from RE is just another cheap GREE.
Panasonic is good.
They are, but they still break down. They update their equipment hardware a lot and makes repairs on them nearly impossible after a few years,
Clicked like button soon as I read the title! Lol
👍👍🙏
What can be done to get the manufactures to build better coils. I find most all mini-split coils leak.
Good luck. They make them thin for better heat transfer and it’s cheaper material cost. They only need it to last past warranty
You got that right , once past the warranty replace it, only in America do we fix them.
I hate all minisplits 😂 nice job Rick
Why?
@Robert M just hard to work on. Everything in tight space and flares are never leak free.
Probably because you don’t know what you’re doing that would be the easiest answer
@Jay to verify your question. If you were listening in the beginning of the video I told you exactly about Mitsubishi's shitty training program so that would probably be the case wouldn't it? But I was able to get the shit running huh? Not bad for an idiot that doesn't know what he's doing huh? FYI it's still running and I'm scheduled to go back to install the new evaporator coils.
I like the fujitsu units so much better.. if you get one of their wired controllers it will tell you pipe temps, they have a charging mode to put them in so you can ramp them way up... it allows the evaporators to get just at freezing or even a little below for short term.. and it runs the indoor fans at max and wont turn them down.. on the ducted units the indoor fans seem to run faster than theu do on normal "high speed" and the putdoor fan goes to high regardless.. stabilizes things a bit.. the compressor will slow down just so you dont freeze the coils too much.. I think it allows them to make a little ice just so you are throwing more heat at them wit hthe state change.. but wont run long that way.. ive noot worked on any Mitsi units..
I've only worked on a couple of those. Mitsubishi has those options but you need the controller and it depends what model it is if it has the option.
@@HVACRSurvival you need a controller for the Fuji units too .. some of the older ones had a way to do it with the remote .. on Fuji pretty much all of the indoor heads have a port for a wired display, so you carry 2 models in your tools (3 wire and 2 wire).. you could probably carry a mitsi wall display too.. depends on how many you work on.. and the cheap china units all bets are off on those. When you bring it back up with the new head then it’s important to weigh in as the numbers on cooling will come normal before the unit has any ability to heat efficiently . The accumulator throws you for a loop.. of course there’s no way to charge them in heat mode. I’ve not found any that you can get at all sides to do it.
Did I hear you say water is a reason for shortening the lives of the coils? Are they water cooled?
YES you did. www.oregon.gov/oha/PH/HEALTHYENVIRONMENTS/DRINKINGWATER/SOURCEWATER/DOMESTICWELLSAFETY/Documents/OHA_2366_Sulfur_Fact_Sheet_(ENG).pdf
So if you use DI water will it improve the longevity?
The No 1 reason i left Mitsubishi after 20 years ( contractor) : Leaks on indoor coils massive 😳
People think I'm crazy but they are not what they used to be. Maybe when they made them in Japan. ???
One last thought someone thinking about buying these at 157 frequency the compressor rotor RPM is above 9000 do you want to buy something that runs 9000 RPM
What's the best 24 btu single unti to buy ??? Mr.kool ? My brother said this brand your working on is the best, is he wrong????
I hate all mini-splits but mitsubishi is one of the better ones out there. I said that at the beginning
Well, ya got me watching it! 🤓
To @ LZummer: The fact that his video has saved so many of us literally thousands of dollars is the exact reason why he SHOULD be posting and why its a good thing that your opinion is not in line with reality.
🫶👍👍
I took the VRF class a few years ago in Marlboro Ma. The install is key Im not a fan of every school putting them in i have a few accounts with 30 head systems parallel compressors if one grounds it kills the other I’m not a fan. The Mnet is $1000 to talk to it with laptop. Same as Samsung,LG,Fishitzo, etc
That sounds like the city multi system. I took that class and have the computer box like you mentioned but I forgot how to use the program. It's been 4-5 years since I used it. We don't have that many systems like that to get good at them.
@@HVACRSurvival I wish they would stick with fan powered VA vees and reheat coils. That system worked great. All the little kids need AC these days.
😂👍👍
Mitsubishi vs Mitsubishi Electric quality. I have a M/E single unit that's still going strong after about 18-19 years, but yeah well beyond it's expected life really.
Things that went wrong with it... well very little. I had a look inside, cleaned the radiator fins etc. The capacitor appears a bit swollen so I have a replacement cap ready. It's lost zero oil in operation. Powdercoating got pretty rusty so I dissassembled and fixed some of that, but it's near the sea, so corrosion happens faster.
Great Video, love the comments 😂
Glad you like them!
I have a zuba central.. hate it.. supply temp always low, aux kicks in all winter.. compressor rarely revs over 10 amps... Ime almost 20 years into the hvac trade.. no clue.. no one knows them and tech support is unavailable.. nightmare
I’ve never heard of them.
I love Mitsubishi MiniSplits. But not the inverter ones. Those low tech non inverter ones are super duper reliable and super silent. They were even used at Camp Bastion (Afghanistan) Billion Dollar Base.
The inverter is where you get the efficiency from.
@@HVACRSurvival But Performance and reliability is unmatched from non inverters.
@V0LKSJAGER yeah it’s more reliable, but why even have one? why not have a regular system ? the point of the ductless system is fast easy install and its higher efficient and you can’t get the efficiency out of that regular system below normal temperatures that a normal heat pump can do. A inverter system can adapt to the lower temperatures because it speeds up the oversized compressor and adjusts the fan speeds to make up for the lower or higher temps.
I just found your channel after a 10 hour day of cursing a Mitsubishi VRF til I was blue in the face.
Couldn't agree more. Terrible manuals, lackluster training, and finicky controls.
You know what's funny is.. I just had somebody leave a comment about how much I complained😲😲😲 I get a kick out of those sort of comments because it's like everyone here bitches about something give me a break. I just happen to have a outlet to show the world what kind of bull shit we deal with.
What was the bill ?
I don’t know, why’s it matter ?
What model is that leak detector.
Inficon Stratus