Building A Soundproofed Room Within A Room - Part 1
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- 1st of 3 videos covering from start to finish the building of a completely decoupled room within a room in a garage. This video takes you from the beginning to the room being ready for the insulation to be added.
- Hudba
Thanks. I must say, though, that I'm enjoying the room more than the work put into it! I definitely have enough power for my needs and the electrical work is all up to code/passed inspections so that's all that matters as far as I am concerned.
really cool work, thank you so much for sharing.
Absolutely the right topic for me. Thanks for making this video/ tutorial. Thumb up
Thanks for watching. Hopefully there are some ideas in here that will be useful for your application.
md4man
You are welcome, and thank you. You made a decent video about this topic. Please check your private YT messages in a couple of minutes
Amazing work
Since I knew that 99% of the time it would just be me in the room I did not do any sort of ventilation. It's worked out well since it's just been me pretty much 100% of the time. I do have a design for a ventilation system to put in later if necessary, but so far it has not been an issue. Thanks for checking out the video.
Yo, I heard you liked rooms, so wee hooked you up with a room IN a room!
Its fine 16 to 20 amp can take a heavy load and audio equipment is not demanding unless you got a full blow ssl/neve studio... The electrics in this place will be more than sufficient.. Good work boys
Good question. Where I live, since the room was not connected to the heating/cooling system, no building permit was required. I did need an electrical permit, however. The electrical inspector made two visits during construction (both times we passed with no issues). The rules probably vary from one area to another so you will definitely want to check with your local government to make sure all required permits are secured. Otherwise you will have real problems if trying to sell your house.
@CDresserDrums
Interesting question. I would think the drywall and likely the hat channel would be lost but pretty much everything else could be salvaged. I'm not sure about the whisper clips - I think they'd make it, but some might get bent in the act of removing the hat channel/drywall. One nice thing is that with the drywall not being screwed directly into the studs, I don't see any reason the studs would be too beaten up to salvage.
looks like an awesome job, obviously lots of knowledge on sound containment. How did you fasten the floor plates to the garage floor?
Even when a room is completely de-coupled, there can be flanking. This would occur when some sound escapes the de-coupled room then makes its way through the surrounding structure. Flanking will be minimized when buildiing a completely decoupled room, of course.
You are right - there is no room to get around the back side of those walls. After the initial framing to make sure everything fit together properly, the walls were torn down, the drywall installed on the back sides of them, then put back up again.
Thanks for uploading. Definitely a wealth of information here...
I was wondering, and it may seem like an odd question, but could you estimate just how easy or difficult it would be to deconstruct the room? Would any of the parts be salvageable? Thanks
As many have noted, don’t build a room like this. No floating floor (the first step in sound isolation)?? And no drywall on the inside (between external and internal wall) basically means it’s just a very thick, one room wall.
Not to mention, no ventilation… 😮
Hi guys! Wondering if anyone has any data or real world experience on air gap measurements in relationship to STC and hz? My biggest fear is doing all this work and wishing I had sacrificed the extra inch or 2 in room space. Thanks ahead of time for anything you are able to offer up! Best, Troy
Thanks for the info/video. Any Chicago contacts? Lookin to do this in my 12×12 basement room.
Nice work! I don't get why people are so hostile when all we do is share our experiences with them...
Heavy floor rugs (garage sales, etc) hung on the walls. Sheets of thick squish foam on walls (prolly more expensive). Shag carpet hung on the walls. Basically put as much soft, sound absorbing materials on the walls (and ceiling if possible) as you can. Block windows for sure. An early band of mine actually stole the insulation from the walls of a house being built and lined the walls of a garage. Too bad we put it paper side to the wall (dumb). Coughing yellow crap for weeks, but quietly.
How much did all this cost? Great video by the way.
did you put two rows of silicon caulk on the stud face and let it dry before attaching the drywall? did you put a zigzag layer of silicone caulk between the sheets of drywall? a layer of soundboard in there too might have been cool if its necessary. the cheaper solution is the 2x6 header and footer with staggered 2x4 studs but i'm guessng you considered that. looks like a lot of work. cheers
Are the base studs anchored into the concrete or are they just laying on the felt?
Thanks.
I'm not sure why people react the way they do. I just take it as part of life on the internet & move on.
Nice video. Were the total permits expensive?
Seems the weakest point of the noise barrier is the 2 doors... So you can cut a big thick peice of foam the size of your door... and as you enter the room close the first door.... wedge the foam in between, and then close the second door. Just a thought?
Also... do you have video of the floating ceiling, and the suspended floor... Because concrete will transmit sound to the rest of the house.
I am in a metal band, and me have a room that is fairly small, that we are going to chuck a drumkit in. the neighbors don't like the noise, so what would you suggest when it comes to soundproofing our room? cheers.
I noticed the 24 oc studs...would it be easier to have the 24 oc on the exterior walls and 16 oc for the interior walls ? Does it make a difference how u have it??
Oh yeah That explains everything then! I thought this was a studio :) But if not good job!
Sound likes to travel in straight lines. The offsetting of the joists minimizes sound transfer through the joists. The method we used was how you decouple a ceiling.
My garage door is your basic garage door - nothing special. You can see how much noise gets outside in the 3rd part video I posted.
what are you going to use for insulation ?
I've gotta ask, why did you choose to leave off the interior sheet rock of the external wall as well as the outer layer on your interior wall???? This is not sarcasm; I am genuinely curious since I'm in the planning and research phase of building mine.
For the ceiling joists on the inside of the room, did you simply toe nail them into the top side of the inside framing? The tops are floating freely? I am to figure how to do this as I plan for a studio build in my basement. I am not interested in hat channel and iso clips for the ceiling, I do want to decouple, but can't wrap my brain around the looseness of the top of the joists. I understand why, just not how. Why the iso clips and hat channel on with the double wall construct?
lets say i live in a trailer and want to expand my closet like this how much do you think will cost?
How much did something like this cost you? Materials wise mainly...
is the 2 staggered ceiling joists touching each other? If so it defeats the purpose....
All you need is only 1 nail to defeat the pupose of a full floating room.
I know alot of thoght goes into a fully floating room... Yours is very good
Also........ is your garage door insulated? and can you hear the music outside your garge door?
how much would something like this cost to have done?
also what would I have to search for when hiring someone? i'm having trouble finding some one to do this job.
@yorockeoduro
The room works very well for sound containment. You can see the results in the 3rd part of these videos. If you do not see a link to part 3 in the list of other videos to the right of the page, check out my channel.. It wasn't cheap, but a substantial portion of the expense was labor. If you can do the work yourself, you will save a lot of money.
The doors are very heavy solid core doors. They may be a weak spot, but not much sound gets through them. I have no need for putting anything between them.
Sound does not actually transmit through concrete much at all. There is no need for having a raised floor in a garage with a concrete slab floor.
You can see more of the suspended ceiling in the part 2 video.
Hi md4man, I have an insulation question.
Could I use sponge matress (yellow looking type) as insulation? Would it be effective? It would lower some of the cost by using it.. But if it will set me up for soundblocking failure i will not go there.
I have 3 of these big sponge mattresses (I think it's sponge made of Polyeurathane) which I would cut up and if I don't have enough I thought of combining it with other batts of insulation or foam spray..
I have googled it and asked some soundy/Muso friends but none have given me a straight up answer.. Except one said it can work as long as I do a good Job..
Would you know the answer to this? Or what's your take on this?
Sorry for not responding sooner. I never received a notification of your comment & just happened to notice it right now.
I guess what I would say is that any source of mass will make a difference but your mattress padding will probably not work as well as other forms of insulation. If you can afford it, it's best to stick with materials specifically used in soundproofing applications. Good luck to you.
so the walls of the decoupled room should be reinforced with a thick layer of mass of drywall or maybe cob (natural building resource)
I don't think it would have been any more or less easy to switch the two stud spacings and doubt it would have made any real difference. The reason we put the 16" on the outside was to make things a little sturdier in the off chance that someone drove into the room. Hopefully that never happens, but if it does, the outer wall could be a little tougher to take down.
good video, I just don't understand one thing, what's the recommended spacing between the walls of the room and the new room? I know there has to be some spacing, or could they be together?
+Juan Ayestas Thanks for watching. You will get a lot of different answers to this question, so don't take this as gospel. The one thing I think everyone will agree on is that some amount of space is better than no space. I'd say you will want at least 1 4" gap between your new room's outer wall & the existing room's wall. In my garage there is a ledge of sorts going around the bottom of the garage that is about 4" high and 4" deep. We butted my new room's outer walls up to it, thus giving us a 4" gap between the 2 walls. If I had more space I might have left a bigger gap, but I tried to balance space used on the outside against space left on the inside of the room & this seemed to work out OK for me.
Thanks for the answer, I think it is Yes, we should leave an air gap.
How does that work? How much do you spent?
if his room is entirely decoupled there can't be any flanking can there? The only place where sound might leak is through the door unless you install a double door.
I congratulate you on your room. That being said next time you should do some research on building a proper room. It begins with a floating floor. I see you tried your best. Good luck with it! cheers
The floor plates were not attached to the garage floor at all. The room is literally 100% decoupled from the garage. As long as I never drive a car into the room it should be OK.
do you have any sources or webpages that actually tell you how to do this?
+Kris Poorman look up "Building a Recording Studio" by Jeff Cooper
The electrical box should be mounted to the sides of the stud your going to have a problem hanging the drywall with the wires on top of the studs.
How much did this cost?
You can check out the part 2 video for details on how the drywall was attached. Basically, we used hat channel & whisper clips - the drywall is decoupled from the studs. Between drywall layers we used green glue.
And yes, the framing (the whole job, really) was a lot of work!
Is your garage floor concrete? I couldn't tell 100 percent from the video. I think that you are supposed to use pressure treated for the bottom plates if it's on concrete.
Why didn't you just use the acoustical drywall? It works really well and you won't of had to do so much work. They say, its the same as hanging 6 sheets and has glue in it, so if you hang anything on the wall it will seal around the nail.
You can see what we did for insulation in the second video in this series, "Building A Soundproofed Room Within A Room - Part 2". Thanks for checking this out.
did you need to get a permit to build this?
how much does all this cost?? i only have maybe up to 150$ to spare??
I don't think those wooden beams next to each other are considered decoupling.
nice job, well thought out........ imagine spray foaming all the voids and gaps? instead of insulation.... What did you do about ventilation and HVAC?.... You get 10 people in there breathing and the oxygen will run out before you know it....LOL
Happened to me but my room is only 8'x9' with no ventilation, double doored
That might be true if this was a studio, which it is not. I have more than enough power for my needs.
:20 sec into the video.... how dis you screw sheetrock to the oute wall? seems no room to walk behind it?
I understand physics just fine. Again, I will point to the third part video as verification our plan worked out just fine. I'm really glad you were not involved with my project. Besides being completely rude, you would have had me spending much more than necessary & achieved no better results. Good luck wasting everyone's time & money with your future projects.
@[The] White Rabbit yeppp
The real question how much did it cost you?
Just wondering about ventilation. All that electrical equipment, several sweating bodies; how are you going to breath?
In my case, the room is only used by me. There is never a whole band in there. For that reason I wasn't concerned about ventilation. If it were to be used as a band practice room I'd have had to put in a ventilation system, which would have added a lot to the cost of complexity since sound loves to travel out ventilation systems.
Thanks for watching.
Ha, you figured me out! Me, with my room fetish.
Dude is all of your stuff gonna be safe being that it's in your garage?
This guy sounds a bit like Earl from my name is Earl
Is there a reason why you didn't float the floors?
The reason I didn't put in a floating floor is that in my situation it would have been unnecessary. Sound does not so much travel through concrete. About all I'd have accomplished would be to lose some ceiling height. Inside a house floating a floor makes sense but in a garage with a concrete floor it is not worth the additional expense & limitations.
Thanks for watching and your question.
TzariZM aka Logan : Because the room was not connected to the house's heating/ventilation system no building permit was required. That is the rule where I live but of course it could be different elsewhere. Only an electrical permit was required & it was very low cost (around $30, I think).
thanks for the input!
FUCK permits! We don't need a permit to do shit inside our own damn property. The only reason to get one is to pay off the crooks threatening to throw you in jail if you don't comply with their extortion demands.
garoad2 The bigger issue, really is how not being properly permitted can affect a property sale later. If you aren't worried about that, you're probably right.
No permit on file--home owners insurance invalid. You will eat any loss + court costs.
Robert Glenn San Socie That would be an injustice, especially in this case where if anything the structure is probably being strengthened. Just another example of how natural corporate-government collusion screws everyone else over. I'm sure the big contractors love that kind of thing - make it more difficult for the little guy to do it themselves or start up a smaller competing company.
19.99 plus s/h
what are the dimensions of the room and can you provide detail instructions on the build. I want to do this for my husband so he can have a man cave while not losing our parking
Try a book by Rod Gervais called Build it like the Pros
This will block A LOT of sound, but remember that there is no such thing as complete sound proofing, at least not in a garage. This would make a hige difference, however. It's kept the police away for me.
Your right, Im the furthest from an electrician but I have taken studio design courses from the worlds best. I might not have the electrical terminology but I sure do know what I am doing. And if they were for lamps that would be a different story. Lights can be wired in in series thats not a problem but any outlet which I do see is wired in series shouldn't be. Because having a 15amp circuit for the room in simply not enough. If it was certified, the electrician Is stupid... Always happens.
Why so hostile? We considered rubber but decided the cost would be unnecessary given my needs. We used felt instead. As you can see in the 3rd part video, my results were very effective given how my room is used. To have done anything more would have been purely a waste of money.
Well, my garage is just as safe as anywhere else, I suppose. I never leave the garage doors up so people can't just walk in off the street and take whatever they want.
hope he never needs to replace that garage door...
Oh ok...thanks man....and yeah hopefully no one drives into the room...it would suck...lol
I am assuming your room is within a house, condo, etc. & not in a garage. If that is correct, you have problems. Regardless of what you do, you will have a problem with flanking, which is basically how sound travels through/around your soundproofing efforts & walls. It's hard to say much with the limited characters in these comments so I will just recommend you look up everything you can on minimizing sound flanking and hopefully you can come up with something that will work. Good luck.
How much would you charge me to make one
I'm not the contractor so I couldn't say.
ohh okay well thanks anyways
too mache blalablaba
грузчик
I thought this video was suppose to show you how to built a sound proof room?
Are you englishman?
The guy in the videos is the contractor, not me. That said, neither of us are English. We are from the US.
You must not be an electrician. cable? fuse box? series? How about, Wire, Panel box, Parallel! He said his permits were signed off meaning an inspector has approved of his work. It is done correctly. Are you talking about isolated grounds, in which case he said the outlets where for lamps, not sound recording equipment.
i have no idea what you have actually just said:L
I would like to let you know, any further responses will only embarrass you, so i suggest you find someone who knows what they are talking about and schooling you a little bit about simple electrical theory. Spare yourself and just don't reply.