6R80 Gen 1 Rebuild
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- čas přidán 7. 10. 2020
- 2009 Ford F150
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Your video saved my day, I had messed-up the clutches. Didn't know they had small differences in measurements. Thanks
Glad I could help
Thank you so much.
You're welcome!
Thanks sir
Thank you for watching.
Excelente
Thanks
very nice video thank you for this, if not too much trouble are you able to provide list of necessary parts like gaskets and stator bushings like you talked about, or is there some kinda kit?
Thanks. Links for Transtar and WIT are in the description. Several different kits are available depending on what you want to do. Overhaul kit is the lowest and just has the basics, what we call paper, rubber, rings and seals. All the way up to a master kit which has clutches and steels. Bushings, hard parts ( drums, shafts, planets, etc.) will be separate. Hard parts I would deal with places like Bishop's, Slauson's or WIT. Use WIT as a last resort for those IMHO. Use a quality kit, Transtec and clutches, Raybestos. Bushings, Durabond, Filter, Filtran. Get your Torque converter from Ford if you end up needing a conductor plate get it from Ford also.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission awesome, thank you. God bless. Merry christmas.
Do you recommend adding a friction modifier or a tube of Lube Guard along with the Mercon LV fluid? Thanks!
I assume you are trying to get rid of the squawk noise that it is used for. I have tried all kinds of stuff. The black Lubegard, limited slip diff. additive, the stuff Ford sells and shudder fix. Best thing I have found to do is use the O/D clutches that have FoMoCo on them and a 2 tubes of Dr. Tranny shudder fix.
Do you put air to the ports to set the clutch packs and then check the tolerances?
That is the best way to do it.
i have some symptoms if possible to send u a video maybe give idea where to look
thanks for the video have you ever had the 6r80 with 5-3 downshift squawk or squawk into 4th mine has been apart 3 times trying to remedy this and I see so many videos with the same problem but there are hundreds of thousands with out the problem I cant find a fix
What clutches and what fluid did you use?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission first was a kit from a local place in town possibly sonnax im not sure I have a shop doing it mercon le with new ford valve body...... then swapped out to mobil 1 w/friction modifier noise still bad 3-4 shift and 5-3 downshift removed trans again swapped to oe clutches another ford valvebody warrantied out no change now removed again rear planets aftermarket valve body from midwest trans supply and back to oe fluid still there I gave shop a part number off a comment i seen on you tube 9L3z-7B164_E for overdrive drum and he is ordering them truck has not been right since end of march went in with a broken e clutch shaft and no 4-5-6 i dont know what to do with this whole situation
Ford makes an additive XL-16, supposed to take care of it. I have not used it. Have always got mine taken care of using either 2 tubes of Dr. Tranny shudder fix or 2 tubes of differential limited slip additive. Sometimes using factory fluid will do it but you have tried that.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes and i forgot to mention before the trans was removed it did get the additive it helped alot for the 3-4 shift it almost went away but the 5-3 downshift was still loud youtu.be/
YfHGNRUz2oA if the link works like this
I would try 2 tubes of Dr. Tranny shudder fix. Have had good success with it.
Boss I have a 2014 mustang gt with a 6r80 trans, it currently clunks when it downshifts while coming to a stop. What could be the issue?
Could be lots of things. Valve body, high pressure, worn driveshaft, calibration issue. Would help to know if there are any codes in the system. Might call Ford and see if there are any clibration updates available for your vehicle.
What assembly lube are you using?
Transgel gold, no longer available. Use Dr. Tranny blue and green now.
Muy gracias buen video lo que no logré ver fue la marca de los repuestos que instalo
De que repuestos hablas Renzo????
@@CurmudgeonTransmission los que colócate en la transmisión. Porque yo e notado que los repuestos que coloco aquí en en Venezuela los discos del los embrague son más delgados que los originales que traen y aveces quedan golpeando. Lo me gustaría saber si la marca importa
@@renzosilva2685 la marca que uso es Raybestos
@@CurmudgeonTransmission gracias amigo
have any videos of changing the rear case needle bearing? rear flange yoke kind of wobbles so wanna nip that in butt while i have case open
No I don't, sorry. Dealer item only, or was when we did ours. Going to wobble the same after you change it. Seems to be normal. Unless it is pitted I would leave it alone.
much appreciated sir
Ok, I have a ‘16 Gen 2 with 122k, drained and refilled twice in 2023 and still have a vibration / jerkyness after the trans warms up past 100 degrees.
Hard to say without being able to experience it. May be engine misfire or T/C shudder. If it is T/C shudder, the bushings in the stator are probably worn out losing pressure for the clutch.
center support will not seat all the way down with selective washer in place between planetary and center support like where owc is…. do they come in various sizes? or can i remove selective washer cause with out it it seats fine
If you did not change any parts then something is assembed wrong. Bearing not sitting right or gear not sitting all the way down. Don't leave it out. There should be one. Yes there are different thicknesses to set your rear end play, but like I said, if you didn't change any hard parts then your shim will still be the correct one.
i did change center support but none that i have fit. also front planetary but thats not even in yet .. i will run through and double check it slides in fine but literall .020 still to go
@@erickeeley7688 You sure you got the right support? Check your RF casting numbers.
even the original that came out had this issue thats why i got another
removed entire thing and re assemble making sure all was down and same issue i can make a video that shows my steps up to the point of this…. could case be twisted or some crazy thing like that… gonna clean a second case and try that one as well
Hi it's me again
Sir y there are 2 difrent type of sim at the oil pump sir where is the difference....I try measure the oil pump the are the same...how to identify which transmission use the thick shim and thin
End play is supposed to be .008-.015. The shims measure .100, .108, .116, .124, .131. You will probably have to get them from Ford. You will need an H-gauge to measure the height. Measure from the bottom of the pump where it sits in the case to the step where the shim sits, Measure from the bottom of where the pump sits in the case to the top of the sun gear, subtract those 2 and subtract enough for your clearance and that is the shim you need.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission sir if the shim is in correct can the the symptoms be ......1to2 hard jerk and when down shift 2to1 hard jerk......when I overhaul fix in the car shifting was smooth then when get hot in slow rev 1to2 jerk...now it got worst
Unless you changed hard parts, ie. drums, planets, pump etc. that shim should be correct. I would be looking at the clearances in your clutch packs. The first thing I would do is reset the adaptives with a scanner then relearn the shifts. If that does not take care of it, look elsewhwere. Did you put in a zip kit in the valve body? Any codes in the system?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes sir transmission control switch circuit not in self test range....sir....and the transmission was overhauled before elsewhere and they did not put in the oil pump clearance shim the trans came in with a missing shim....sir...
It could be you did not cycle it during the test, however if it does have a problem, I would fix it first before anything else is done.
Hi there,
If I remove the valve body, does it need to be re programmed again for it to function normally?
Not unless you replace the Techm. If you do anything to the valve body you might want to reset the adaptives.
Thanks, ok... I'm just going to repair it using the sonnax zip kit. I don't know if the lead frame has the TCM inbuilt and not that I'm replacing the lead frame or the TCM, I'm just rebuilding the valve body. Please shed some light on this.
Yes the TCM is in it. You should do the pressure switch repair to it while you are there. Sonnax makes 2 different kits for it, one has the tool to do it with it. I would do the reset for the adapts if you can. I have a video on it if you need it or there are plenty of other videos on it on CZcams, I think Sonnax even has one.
Hmmmm, see the thing is I don't have the tool to do the pressure test... Now I'm stuck. Can you share your videos on how to do the test? If I can also know what the tool looks like 😕
When you say reset the adaptors, what do you mean.
WILL THAT FIXTURE WORK WITH A C4 FORD TRANNY
I have never tried. There is not a place for it to fit, but it may be enough indention on the case that it "may" hold it somewhat.
WELL FOUND A FIXTURE THAT WOULD WORK WITH THE PAN OFF JUST THOUGHT I WOULD ASK THANK YOU@@CurmudgeonTransmission
bit of a story behind this
do you guys torque anything to specs?
Do you know how torque specs are calculated? Do you know what they are for certain thread counts and different metals or are you still looking them up for every thing you tighten? Have you ever tightened something down by hand and then checked with your torque wrench and learned what certain torques feel like? Have you ever tightened something with your impact and listened to the sound it makes and what it feels like when something is tightened down and then checked with your torque wrench and compared it? There should come a time where you can get REALLY close to what it should be. There is nothing on this transmission that you should not be able to do this way, that goes for most also. There are a few things that yes I would need to look up and use a torque wrench, but pan bolts and such you should not. How do you know if your torque wrench is correct? When is the last time you had it calibrated?
amateur question, professional answer
czcams.com/users/shortsneFPVknRGYw?feature=share
here is link to whats happening
Seems to be a torque management issue, not a transmission issue. What is this in? Looks like a swap into an older vehicle, is it? If it is I would try to figure out how to turn off the ESC.
its a 2013 ford mustang 3.7 with 6r80 with 4r200 hub replacing the forward planetary, exedy stage 2 clutches and steels howerver we removed 4,5,6 pistons and clutches and seal apply holes to make a 3 speed, i think its because of that its doing it but any ideas eherr to look
esc is completely disabled along with abs
Not sure what to tell you there. Have had no dealings with those mods. Maybe something in the programming
Me pasa tu whatsapp quiero comunicarme con usted quiero hacer una consulta
no tengo WhatsApp. se pasiente por que no hablo espnol y uso traductor
@@CurmudgeonTransmission 👍
i am so sorry for all comments bugging you but you have been so helpful, i put all back on and went to air check however this what i found...
czcams.com/users/shorts0m14yHf2ndk?feature=share
Are you on Instagram? If so go to my page. CurmudgeonTransmission
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