6R80 Gen 2 Rebuild
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- čas přidán 1. 10. 2020
- 2015 Lincoln Navigator In the video I stated improperly that the later unit had the computer on the lead frame (conductor plate), the early units had them and also did not have the low diode sprag assembly and spring in the back of the case.
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great video sir!
Thank You
Great stuff!! I really enjoyed it
Thanks
Love the insight of your videos! I'm attempting to rebuild my 2015 F-150 6R80 (238,000 Miles) soon and was curious if i need to buy the 6HP26 bushing drivers or could standard bushing drivers be used safely. I do not have an arbor press.
Thanks for posting this video, it's appreciated. I have a few questions. In your opinion, do new seals work better than old seals? Do you think that if you had the installation and sizing tool for those pump seals, that your reassembly time would be shorter and the risk of damage to the seals reduced. Don't most rebuild kit manufacturers recommend that the clutch plates be soaked before installing?
As long as I feel resistance with the rings in the shaft they go in I do not replace them. If there isn't any I do. I have spoken to people who are the top in the industry and they don't replace them either. In one instance , the RE5R05A, if you change them your transmission is probably not going to work right till you replace them with factory rings. Reassembly time would be slightly shorter and might reduce damaging them. You still have to be careful with the resizing tools especially after they have been used alot. Yes most recommend you soak your clutches, I have not noticed a difference durability wise between soaking them and not. If you use the really cheap clutches it might. This will be my 37th year doing this and I have only soaked them a handful of times. Thanks for watching.
Great info saludos
Thank you.
Forgot to ask this: How do we know what size steels, cushions or frictions to use? The ATSG manuals only give clearances once assembled. ATSG also never mentions bushing replacement or procedures.
My set came from Atec Transtool about 40 years ago and is not made for any specific transmission. Link is in the description if you need it. I did not have an arbor press for many, many years and was able to do them. You do need to be more careful with them. The steels, clutches and pressure plates do not have different sizes except for the drum they go in. I believe I give the demensions of which ones go in which drum on this video. If not I know there is a later video with the new camera and am pretty sure I do in that one. Also the camera is closer. The clearances are set with the snap rings. czcams.com/video/PG4TP2-Q_Wo/video.html
On units like this one where the clutches will fit into 4 drums I have learned to write down my steel and friction thickness on a piece of paper as I disassemble. The 6R80 has both high energy and standard duty clutch material (dark colored/light colored respectively) and they are both different in thickness. There are also two different steel dimensions (thick/thin), then snap ring thickness plays a role too. Get stuff mixed up and it will bite you. Measuring, marking, writing down, as you disassemble is one of those things that becomes natural as your experience progresses. On the unit’s you build the most, you don’t need to as much but the unit you don’t build often doing so can really save the build. I have an electric engraving tool that I keep on my bench. Marking the way parts face or index doesn’t hurt the part and makes assembly easier/faster.
Do you usually buy OEM TCs or do you have an aftermarket supplier that you prefer?
We use Precision of New Hampton. Link is in the description. Have real good success with them.
Love your videos. I think ive watched every single one. 1 question, 6r80…. Ive found 3 different bell housings. 2.3,3.5,5.0… are the steels, cluctches and valve bodies the same? Simple terms, can you interchange the parts?
Thanks. Steels, clutches and snap rings, yes. The 3.7L uses one less clutch and steel. And the pistons are a different height. Most of the other parts, no. Depends on the year. Different Pumps, Overdrive Drum, Planetaries, Center Support, Sprag, Valve Body. Need to be careful and match all the hard parts you replace.
I was hoping you might focus a little on the clutch clearance checks. I know sometimes you just don’t have the time so no disrespect intended. I sent you a post on a tear down video about a 4,5,6 clutch that was smoked to the point that no friction material remained on the disks. Never did find a smoking gun. I did replace all bushings (Dura-Bond + pump bushing), the 4,5,6 drum (supposedly new Ford but even though it came out of a new box it looked previously used) , new steel’s/pressure plate, Sonnax ZipKit, new VB spacer plate, plus all the other usual rebuild parts. All my other clearance checks were excellent, but 4,5,6 only had 0.006 of free clearance. The stack up was “springie”, I could push down and get 0.025 between the PP and snap ring. ATSG manual says something about the clutch set being a “wave design?” Didn’t like it, tried to get a new piston but was a week out. On the bottom of the piston there are 3 little feet where the piston contacts the drum. I ground those smooth and was able to get right at 0.020 of free clearance between the PP and snap ring. Air tested everything really good and put it all together. Didn’t really like doing that but simply couldn’t figure why 4,5,6 set up so snug, and wonder if that’s what wiped it out the first time. Have you run into any issues with 4,5,6 clearance?
Usually tend to be more to the loose side for me. Clearance is .019-.035 and is set with the snap ring. They also want you to check them by hand and not applying air as alot of them want you to do. Got snap ring numbers if you need them. Go to my Instagram and can send them to you.
I already buttoned it up actually. I didn’t measure the snap ring thickness but it already seems pretty thin. Something is weird with it. I have been looking all over trying to find some insight. I even put the old drum together just to see if anything would be different and it was the same. I know there are 2 different heights available in the 4,5,6 drum but not sure what difference that would have made. There was no cushion plate in the stack up though the ATSG manual shows one. I also see that Sonnax makes a HD piston for it and Raybestos makes a performance pack w some different size steels. This is only my 3rd 6R80 and the two before didn’t have this challenge. It’s gone for now and I feel pretty confident it will be fine but I’m still bugged about it.
Also you may want to do a little digging……there are several people making resize tools for sealing rings on 3D printers. The quality is unfortunately all over the map so check the reviews. I found a used factory set for the 6R80 and it works as well as one would expect it too but it was still pricey.
I have looked at some of them on Ebay. Most look pretty rough. Did recently by one on there for the 10R80, which also works for part of the 10R140 also. Much nicer finish than most of them on there. Will be doing a review on it soon.
My Gen 2 6R80 with only 1600 miles on it after a rebuild, flared 300rpm from a 5-6 gear shift. Now, when trying to move forward, it seems like 90% of the line pressure isn't allowing full engagement in D, and the RPM just climbs with very little forward movement. Reverse engages perfectly fine. The car was driving perfect for the first 7 minutes, and then this came out of nowhere. I believe its a solenoid/valve body issue. No codes came up. I am swapping the valve body, bridge and tube seals today.
Are you sure it is not in failsafe and taking off in 5th gear?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission No idea what it is. I just finished installing the new valve body/leadframe, and it didn’t cure the problem. Reverse engages perfect. Switch into D, and for 3-5 seconds, nothing happens, then it tries to engage, but very little forward motion with throttle, just more RPM slip and sometimes a small jolt.
Probably something happened in the A clutch drum.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yeah. Something just randomly came out of place I believe. The applied force to the drive clutches isn’t there all the sudden.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission So I connected ForScan to the car and watched live data on gear ratio commanded/active. When I move the shifter into D, it takes about 1-2 seconds, but moves directly into 2nd gear, then 2 seconds later, it goes into 5th gear!!!!! Still no fault codes.
This morning, for 2 minutes going forward and backwards in my driveway, it actually used 1st gear like normal, and then it went back to clunking during last step of engagement into D (takes about 5-7 seconds for complete engagement) and starting in 5th gear again.
Great vidéo, good job sir .
I have a question about these steel clutch why you don't change them?
Thanks, I do when they are bad. If you feel the need replace them. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for the reply,the probleme is I dont know when I have to replace them ,I saw on some video they said you change them if they burned but witch % of burned they talk about
If they are black or warped replace them. If you have any doubts about whether you should or not error on the side of caution and replace them.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission hi Sir , I have another question, is there a thickness to respect when you go up the friction and steal plates or not? because I saw in your videos that you measure them one by one.
Some transmissions it can. I was just making sure they were all the same. Usually they are.
Buen bideo
Thanks!
F150 3.7L 4x4 mfd 03/11
1-2 shift is rough all the time, under hard acceleration it’s a violent shift into 2nd. No codes at all for transmission.
Ford replaced the lead frame, No difference. Now they want $3400CAD just to open it up to see what’s wrong with it.
I just bought the truck a month ago and really regretting it. Any advice on what might cause this?
Does the truck have any engine misfire codes?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission they only code it had was for a faulty ignition switch, which I replaced.
@@JasonAndrewReid Is the wrench light on and do you have access to a scanner? Also do you have access to an oscilloscope?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
No wrench light on the dash.
I have a blue driver scanner, but no transmission codes are showing up.
Ford said it’s something internally wrong, as there are no transmission codes. Which really didn’t make sense to me.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission no oscilloscope either
Porque puede ser que golpea a hacer el cambio de primera a segunda
necesito saber si tienes algun tipo de codigo en la computadora guardado
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ninguna averia marca nada no tenia en averia
@@CurmudgeonTransmission solo tenia un paquete de disco que se estaba terminando pero los anillo de goma estan todo bien
@@cristian6456 que fue lo que isiste... Usted reparo la transmision completa
@@CurmudgeonTransmission bajamos la caja porque hacia los golpes pero a cambiar los paquete de disco no cambio nada siguió el mismo problema a hacer el cambio y a colocar en R o en D aveces golpea también