Ford F150 6R60 & 6R80 Transmission Fluid Leak Bulkhead Sleeve Repair
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- čas přidán 22. 11. 2013
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In this video I show you how to fix the common fluid leak from the bulkhead connector on the 6r80 & 6R60 transmission.
BE SURE TO PUSH IN ON NEW SLEEVE AND THEN LOCK IT IN OR THERE WILL BE ELECTRICAL ISSUES WITH THE TRANS. IT SHOULD BE QUITE EASY TO PUSH THAT LOCKING TAB IN. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Sir, if I could I would give you a giant hug right now! 7am found a puddle under the truck after I started it, found it leaking from this connector and thought it was going to be a huge job! Thought it was going to be one of those days. Thank you for all your videos on the 2010 Fords (F150). She getting old and needs some TLC and your videos really help me out! THANK YOU!
You've taken the words right out of my mouth. Love these easy low priced do it ourselves repairs and yes, his videos are sooo helpful.
In my opinion, this should be done when doing a fluid & filter change. The part is only $20 and the pan has be dropped anyway. Wish I had known this before I did my fluid change. Great video. Very helpful.
I wish I had seen this video sooner. With a large trans puddle found under the Expedition, I pulled up my favorite "go to" Ford repair video -FTMULOCO and did the complete Trans fluid drain, replace filter and fluid. Went Perfect with your Videos. Only a slight burn checking the final fluid level after warming fluid. (I failed to follow the OvGlove recommendation. The leak I'm almost positive, was from the bulkhead sleeve, but with 120,000 k, the fluid and filter change was definitely needed. No leaking now though. Probably a cleaner and cooler running trans helped. You are "the Man" for FORD Repairs!!
I also did the complete Phaser changeout "per your instructions this past June. No problems and running SILENT. Thanks for the videos
I'm going to emphasize on the step where you are putting the new sleeve in, make sure you are putting good pressure on it while pushing clip up. It can be a bit tricky to find that spot so work with it. NEVER try and hammer or force the white clip in. Also white clip will not go in if the bulkhead sleeve isn't inserted. Great video as always!
Having a problem with my pin going back in , how hard did you have to push it in ?
Mine is stuck open…Awesome lol
00amwhy can I not get the new sleeve to go all the way in to lock but the old one slides in easily
Easy Peasy,,, Went as smooth as you showed,,, Huge Thanks. I measured the fluid that drained out. 9 quarts for a 2010 f150 5.4 6r80.... 100 bucks parts and fluid.. Great video series.
Did this procedure on a 2010 Ford F150 and this video was perfect. The new bulkhead sleeve needs a good even push top bottom and sides because the new Orings actually fit snug forming a tight seal. After that the locking mechanism locks in place perfect with ease. I had noticed the bulkhead weeping a drop of oil when I was replacing my O2 sensors. The O2 sensor video was another great video by FordTechMakuloco that I watched having no problems changing out my 2 up and 2 downstream sensors.
I just want to say that this video is one of the best videos out there it helps with a very expensive looking problem that is really simple to fix so thank you guys so much for the info!
Dude!
Thanks so much for making this video and the other supporting videos. I would not have even tried and would have just paid the dealer to the job, but your video was very clear and demystified the process. Hopefully setting the fluid level to the bottom of the cross-hatch area like you said when the engine is running and not at full temperature works.
Again, thanks for taking the time and effort to do these videos,
Mike
Just got through with this repair in the driveway on an '09 f-150 109,000 miles. Fordtechmakuloco, without you taking the time to make this video, this repair would likely have cost us $300 to $400 at the mechanic shop, thanks a million.
Only problem we had was the backside of the seal, (the black and white clip part) was a little stubborn to get back in, needed a little extra convincing that it belonged there. Thanks again.
Very helpful video,I just replaced it on my 2004 BMW 545i and the leaks stopped ,you help me to save at least $1200,thanks a lot.
Super great info, Thanks so much. My mechanic (ex-mechanic) wanted to drop the trans and disassemble it. He said it would be between $800 and $1000 to fix.
This video saved me a lot of money, thank you for making it. One thing I did was to make sure I had the sleeve in correctly before putting the pan back on. I'm really glad I did because it was not all the way in the first time. I was so sure it was that I almost didn't check. Glad I did or I would of had to take the pan off and redo it. I checked by turning the ignition on and looking on dash for error codes, which there was. I then went back and pulled the sleeve out and tried again, second time no codes. Then I put the pan back on.
What codes did you have
I disconnected the connector and pushed the sleeve hoping it would sit better and reconnected the connector. Still had the the check engine light on the console but cleared the code with a code reader. Its been working fine ever since. Thanks for all the help
wow,that's where the leak is on my truck. Thank you, I'll replace in the spring or when it quits raining. This video is a big help,I saw the harness and the oil but wasn't sure how it came out, now I know thanks again.
Was quoted $800 bucks and a three day turnaround by the dealer... did it myself for $150 over the course of a morning. Sleeve wanted to be a pain but some patience got it in place. Thanks for the video!
They quoted me 4.5 hours labor plus the part and the fluid. I didn't ask how much that would be, I'm going to do it myself. The dealer's parts department sold me the part for only $5 over Amazon's price and genuine Mercon LV fluid for $6.11 a quart, which incidentally is $0.11 cheaper per quart than the Walmart Supertech LV fluid I saw at a Walmart near me.
I just wanted to say thanks for posting this video it saved me a ton of money amd also another thanks to all the commenter's that said you have to give the gasket a tap to get it to seat correctly to get the tab in.
Great video. Very helpful. Replaced the sleeve on my 2010 yesterday and this video helped out a lot. Thanks.
This came in super handy on my 6L80 gm transmission. Just got it back from rebuild and shop won’t warranty it. This saved me having to take it back in!
Couldn't get new connector to lock in so I swapped the orings to the old connector and it worked. No more leaks. yayyyy. Thank you for your tech videos.
How could you tell it was leaking
Your are the best, short well presented, Better than the rest, easy to understand, i got educated and saving on labor can’t ask for much more!
Lol it took me over an hour to reseat the bulkhead lol !!! ( the white clip did not want to push up ) U make it look so easy lol then when I went to start the truck the gears wouldn’t move !!
Thank god I saw your other video !
Bottom line I removed the harness and reinstalled it again and it worked !!!!! Thank you !
I thought I was going to have to drop the pan again :(
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video, you are saving me a lot of money and I appreciate it. I'm going to perform this procedure this week, my question to you is will disconnecting the battery prior to the work being performed protect the ecm from damage from any static discharge that could be caused by human touch?
wow I just replaced my pan gasket and it's still leaking. wish i had watched this first. love your videos.
Did the repair this past weekend. No lift; jacked up the front. First I drained the fluid. Bought Airpower America FloTool 5060TSMI Topsider Extractor to do the job, but upon further review the HORUSDY Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit for Gas Oil and Liquids would have worked just as good for $50 less. See below. Dropping the pan was the most difficult part, as the six rear pan bolts were tough to get to; you will need a u-joint adapter. Also, if I was doing this again, I would go ahead and replace the 21 pan bolts with
new ones. They were pretty rusty, and while in there do it right so you won't have problems if you go in again. Since the fluid was already removed, taking the pan down was not that messy; i had a large flat drip pan propped up on a milk crate to catch the pan and the little fluid as I was removing it. Releasing the while clip and pulling out the connector was a breeze. Prior to removal I verified the depth of it as shown in one of the other vids with a 6 Inch 15 cm Pocket Ruler Flexible Precision Stainless Steel Ruler with Detachable Clips Stainless Steel Pocket Clip Scale Gauge Ruler Metric British System, it was 15mm on the ruler. As many others have noted, it was tough to install the new connector. I had to cover the connector end with a metal cap and use a pry bar to seal it. Verified the depth of the connector with the ruler, and the white clip snapped up into place. I installed a new filter while it; when removing the old filter the orange seal on the stem from the old filter was stuck in the hole and I had to pry it out. When I went to fill it up, I started pumping fluid in with a LubriMatic 55-001 4CC Fluid Pump for Quart Size Bottles. As others have noted, it doesn't fit the qt bottles, and quite honestly it was very time consuming and difficult to do laying on your back. I ran a piece of hose from the engine area into the tranny, fitted a funnel to it, and filled from there. I unfortunately spilled my bucket of old fluid before I had a chance to measure it, so I put in 6 qts. No check engine and it ran smooth. The next day I checked it and it was way overfilled; I ended up removing 1.25 qt with the hand pump which was easier and quicker to use than the Transfer Pump Kit. I have the Summit Racing aftermarket tranny fill tube kit ordered and will install as this will make checking the fluids and any top offs way easier. I hope this helps someone.
Excellent video. Simple & great quality thankyou
Thank you for these very detailed videos. You mentioned drag shifting in the morning.
I have a 2013 f150 3.5L EcoBoost. 6r80 Trans. 165000 miles. In the morning I experience what sounds like the transmission is struggling to shift from 3 down to 1st for about 15 minutes of driving. No issues shifting up. After about 20 minutes on the highway the problem goes away. I have been extending my warm up to about 15 minutes with no improvement. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Thanks for the vid. I just did this and the Filter change on my 2010 F150 FX4 with the V8 5.4L. I had to add almost 10 quarts of fluid! :o It's now shifting hard in 4 low. But it's fine in 2wd and 4 high. Hoping it settles down after I drive it a bit more.
Thanks a lot I needed to do this and you helped. I’m replacing that same part on a 2010 f150
Did you have any issue with the retaining clip going back in?
You are always a great help!
Thanks for the video! I'm changing mine out now while new tranny filter and fluid on my 2010 f-150.
Just notice a pool of tranny fluid under my truck and looking around I think this is the cause. Seems like a simple fix, thanks for the video
Dude great job on the video. I don't own a Ford, but enjoyed it
Great videos, appreciate all of them.
Thank you for the valuable information your channel provides!! Any advice on what type of cleaner or degreaser to use on the harness connector, bulkhead sleeve and trans housing? Want to make sure I clean up the leaking trans fluid before replacing ! Your help is much appreciated 🙏
have another question is a good idea to use a conditioner additive into your transmission. I was planing to add BG TRANSMISSION ADDITIVE. thanks again keep up the good work.
Helllo.Thanks ,very informative.Just wondering ,do you have a video of dropping the trans pan on Transit van?If not,can you sugest an article?Thanks
Excellent vid, thanks for posting.
I am in the process of changing my filter and thought I would change this now while I'm in there. Currently it's not leaking. I pull down the retainer and the connector will not pull out. I put a little pressure behind it with a pry bar and still nothing. I'm thinking I will skip it since mine is dry and hope messing with it didn't cause a leak... Any thoughts?
Mine looks like the fluid is coming from the bell housing, looks pretty dry all around the pan, could this be it?
I have an 07 Expedition with the 6R75 trans. I this trans essentially the same as the 6R60 & 6R80 and subject to the same type of leak? If so, basically the same repair as your video shows? Thanks!
Help! I'm trying to change the output speed shaft sensor and I cannot get the bulkhead connector sleeve out. I believe I have the retainer pressed down as far as it can go because I can hear a click, but the sleeve will not budge. Any ideas on how to get the sleeve out?
I have a 2007 Expedition EL and I changed the pan gasket a couple years ago when I did a filter change used a Ford EOM gasket. Well discovered it was all wet with trans fluid under the truck recently. I changed the gasket again and keep getting leaks. The house I live in now has a rather steep driveway and it seems to leak worst when I park forward. I keep checking if bolts are loose. This is driving me crazy. Does my 2007 have this problem in this video?! That may explain it leaking worse when parked with rear of truck lower.
Just bought a 2010 f150 got a leveling kit installed a week later and the mechanic told me I have a really bad transmission leak at the back of the transmission hopefully this works. I just ordered the part
I have a 2011 f150 with what appears to be trans fluid dripping from the bell housing, is this the fix? I’ve looked at tsb 12-11-14, are you familiar with this tsb? And do you have a video for it?
Do you know if the bulkhead sleeve needs to be changed on a 2015 Ford transit t350 xlt?
You have helped me a lot the third brake light the water pump and now this.
Have you made a video on the 6R80 Output Shaft Seal replacement?
Does the 2014 f150 5.0l still have the orange o’rings in it. I have no leaks but want to do tranny service and connector as a preventative?
Thanks
I am probably going to swap the whole sleeve for good measure while i have the pan down, but could I theoretically just replace o-rings alone? Im not sure how durable the plastic is, and I imagine that it warps with the excess heating and cooling over the years.
Where can I get a new passthrough bulkhead connector??
07 Expy having same issue, my info says 6r75 tranny does the following still apply? Thanks
Is this the correct part number for the 6R80 - 6L2Z-7G276-AA?
Great video. I need your help. I sprayed the connector with brake fluid to try and clean out some the transmission fluid and grime. The truck now wont start. My sense is i shorted the pins to the lead frame. Is it possible the main computer is shorted as well or should i start by replacing the lead frame?
is it always this bulkhead sleeve that leaks? Dealer is saying my Lead Frame is leaking on the wires and out this bulkhead.
I have 2010 Explorer and you explained in your other video it is all integrated and expensive!
i replaced the bulkhead sleave and put everything back together and the truck will not crank over . the lights turn on and in cab lights but nothing happens when i turn the key. It shows a yellow symbol which i assume is the transmission warning light. Any words of wisdom. I pushed the bulkhead sleave with left hand while i locked it in place with the clip but something still is wrong.
Tried to do this repair and the fill plug stripped out. I can turn it both directions and it won't come out. Any ideas? Thought about the oversized plug like in an oil pan stripped plug. I just wouldn't be able to put the dipstick back in. If anyone has ran into this or has advise please let me know. Thank you.
I had mine done a month ago First time it was the Wrench light and traction control icons, a few weeks later and now I am getting wrench icon, traction control icon, low fuel to E and LCD on dash has ------ and low fuel icon on my dash. Could all this be from that fix or something else? Thanks
Hell, I have a 97 Ranger. How similar is it to do the same on it?
Exactly what's leaking on my '08 SportTrac 6R60. Thanks!!
Very good video and excellent information, very helpful!
Thanks!
I replaced the sleeve in the back of the transmission but still looks like I am getting fluid around the wiring. There is a quad ring on the pigtail and I was wondering if that quad ring can be replaced without replacing the whole pigtail and wires?
Do you recommend replaced the o ring on the male portion of this set? Looks like you can buy that plug for 50 bucks or so but you're having to splice all the wires. Just seeing if it's common for the plug to leak as well.
I took the bulk head off and replace the seals but when I try to put it back on it won’t go in
I followed this tutorial and it's been a few months with no issue, suddenly it's leaking again. When I disconnect the wires and grab the sleeve it's got play and thats where its leaking from. After I installed the first time I couldn't move it, any Suggestions?
Dude I’ve changed my trans gasket twice and a pan…..it’s the plug bro ain’t no way thanks for the video!
And now my truck won’t crank and doesn’t show me in gear
Help!!! Any idea when my lock clip will not slide back up? Even tried removing new bulkhead connector and sliding it back up with no connector in place. It wont budge. 2010 Expedition
Thanks for the information !!
My lock tab won’t go in regardless or the sleeve being inserted or not. Help?
my don't leak from the bulkhead it's leaking from two of the wires on the harness the ones are connected to the pins any idea how to solve the problem let me know thanks
Have you had any 2010 f150 6r80 with converter shudder until totally locked when hot at 0 and still at 78000 miles but more frequent ford has said is normal. does not do it all the time converter apply is very slow. How can converter apply be made firmer? I feel this slow apply just adds heat to the plates and frictions thinning the LV oil more than it already is.
Oh this educational video was great. im on my 3rd drain and fill already
how about the Transmission range sensor of 2017.ford.transit xlt, do you have a part number for this..?
2012 f150 4x4 ecoboost., Got a hard slam when shifted into gear and then the wrench symbol popped up. It was in limp mode. Crawled underneath and found fluid all around this plug....not dripping but it was wet. Pulled the wires out, sprayed everything with contact cleaner, then blew it out with air. Like magic the wrench went away. Still had a check engine light so I cleared that with my obdII scanner and all is good. Not sure if the lever part was loose allowing trans oil into the harness or if I need to pull the pan and replace the bulkhead.
Can you do this repair with the truck on ground level, or do you need a full lift, or at least have the front up on wheel jacks?
Is this good preventative maintenance at @199k it's never been done before and you can see it leaking
Is the 6r80 from the mustang the same as the 6r80 f150 trans? Internal wise?
yes when I unplug the harness connector there it's a bunch of oil
My bulk head connector pig tail wont go in, looks like it shifted or something, any ideas?
Whats the actual flat rate time for this job Thanks
I tried but even will a lot of pressure, I could not get the sleeve all way in so that I could push up white tab. I noticed the two very small tabs mid way up black sleeve do not match my original part not sure that matters. Also I have red O rings on OEM and the new part are black o rings.
I watch your video and you looked like didn't have push hard to get black sleeve all way in? I don't get it you made it look easy? help!
Definitely helpful! Thank you!
Just got done doing this job on my 09 f150. I ran into the same problem with the clip not going back up after inserting the sleeve. Don’t try to force the clip, if it’s not going up it means the sleeve isn’t in fully. What I did is with a long narrow peice of wood and a mallet I gave the sleeve a few taps carefully and that did it,Up went the clip. I put everything back together and just like that saved 500 bucks.
I had a real problem getting my clip back up and I wish I had read your post. I pushed pretty hard on the sleeve while pushing on the clip (I have pretty strong hands) and it wouldn't budge, despite the sleeve appearing to be fully seated. I finally pressed the clip a lot harder than I should have and the pressure must had nudged it just enough to line up the slot, and it finally went up and I didn't break anything. I think your suggestion would have worked for me, so anyone else looking for help with this issue definetly try it. I guess they made the new o rings a lot fatter and that's ok with me because I don;'t want to do it again.I wanted to insall a new pan with a drain plug at the same time but Dorman only makes them for 6r80s 2011 and after. I contacted Dorman and they said the later ones won't fit the o9, which is what I have, and I can't find a stock pan with a drain anywhere else.
FYI anyone who comes across this, replacing solenoids solved my problem, so far. I had slip on 4-5 upshift, jolt on 5-6, and 2-1 downshift bump. Codes came up 4f8A and also 4f86 for 4-5 upshift but no other codes. Originally i just attempted with the bridge and finger seals, but that did not solve the problem. I have been able to test the car on at least one road trip and a few high load shifts, and so far so good. If anyone buys a car with a higher mileage ZF automatic transmission (over 120k miles, 200k km) at the first sign of transmission issues I would recommend this service.
I would recommend disconnecting the battery during this service.
When putting the car back together make sure the sliding arm on the valvebody is aligned with the shift selector on the trans housing.
What vehicle was this done on? FordTechMakuloco has a video on servicing the molded lead frame on 2011+ Fords with the 6R80. The molded lead frame interfaces with the solenoids. I would have to think that is cheaper than replacing all the solenoids, if yours is a 2011+ anyway. Mine is a 2010 and doesn't have the molded lead frame.
Got a 6r80 that had what I though was a leaking pan gasket. Come to find out it is the bulkhead. So we dropped the pan, pulled the white clip down and replaced the outer bulkhead. Well after about 200 miles it still leaked a tad. Worse part is it went into limp mode and stayed in 2nd gear, lost speedo, wrench light came on and Trac control. Pulled the code and got U0101. Which is connection lost to TCM. What's the deal? I'm assuming it has to do something with the bulkhead we replaced? Bouncing my head here.
What is that white peace is not going backup even without the new plug
I just did this repair now theres a wrench symbol on my cluster and it doesn't show what gear I'm in. its not showing other errors to
Shop wanted to charge me 550 for this job, now I’ll be doing it myself. Thanks
Ford dealer called this and rear seal, Ford here in Ottawa called $1300- f*ck1ng crooks. Called my local tranny shop, $180 + parts.
Very helpful. Thanks
Great Video.
Hiya! Best Ford videos out there! Help me, please! Just did this repair, service flush etc. The dudes put some Castrol ATF. Said it was above OEM standards. I cant find a Castrol ATF online that is equal to Mercon SP. Smells a bit burny :/ Did they screw up??? Help!!!
Great video but unfortunately it is still leaking for me after the new o-rings. Granted, it's no way near as bad as it was, but still leaks about a pancakes worth of fluid every time it sits for a couple of days. I'll attempt another fix in the spring but this time i'm going to use hi temp RTV on the outside of the connector. I knew I should have used it to begin with. Live and learn.........
You should never have to use sealant there are two o-rings keeping the fluid in one of them must of been damaged or rolled upon install.
Would this be the same as transmission fluid change?
Well done. I can't believe that with the reputation of that great German engineering that they can't make a pass through like this with finely machined parts, 2 O-rings and a ribbed quad seal that doesn't leak!!! I serviced the same trans on my '04 Jaguar and while I was in there I replaced this too, even though it wasn't leaking. 6 months later, the car is laid up for the winter, hasn't been started in weeks, just like that the POS just starts leaking all over the place!! Wtf!
Gotta be a better way to seal these up!
So I reached under and unfastened the connector. The wire and inside the connector was wet but it didnt look like it was leaking from the bulkhead
Doing this right now and my locking tab is stuck. Won’t go in with or without new one
great video thanx for sharing
Thanks for the information
davros0007 yes it's a bunch of oil, when I unplug the harness drops much more oil, so maybe the bulkhead any body can help? ??
Will the sleeve listed work on the 6R80E? Im no car expert so i haven't a clue. Not sure if there is a difference between 6R80 and the 6R80E. I drive a 4.6L 3v 2010 Ford f150 2wd
+Kyle Carr There is no 6r80e, do you mean 4r70e or 4r75e instead if so no this pass through sleeve is not used on your trans.
thanks for your help
can a bad connection in that piece throw a fault U0101?