6F35 Rebuild
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- čas přidán 5. 11. 2020
- 2016 Ford Fusion
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
To the Tech in this video: I am a “hands on learner” and crave lessons like this to teach me how to be better at working on cars. In the culture we currently live in, finding people like this to teach those who genuinely desire to learn is like trying to find a needle in a haystack. I suppose this is one of the great benefits of technology and being able to post videos on the web such as this. I just wanted to thank you for your time and willingness to teach others who desire to learn, skills such as this, as I do not have anyone around me to teach me these things. I am aware of the truth that it has cost you many years of: labor, money, tools, education, and hard work to learn and share what you have in this video. I am grateful these types of opportunities exist, thank you again for sharing and I hope you realize how valuable you are!
Glad to help, thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for uploading this video. I am rebuilding the transmission for my 2016 transit connect, and this is helping me do it with confidence after watching it and rewatching and following your steps. Thank God for youtube and you. I saved myself about 7k that that a transmission shop wanted to charge me.
Thanks for watching.
Had a technician quit on the spot and so of course I was in charge of putting the trans back together with no idea how it was disassembled thanks to the video! Super informative.
Glad it helped.
You should have told your customer thats messed up
Best 6f35 rebuild video on a CZcams!! ❤🎉 Thanks so much for your expertise and for outlining the whole entire rebuild process! Youre the G.O.A.T.!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Gracias por el video mostrando la forma inpecable de armado de la tranmicion un amigo. Chavez
Thanks for the video. Did my first 6f35 on an Escape, the TC blew apart and sent garbage everywhere through the trans. I replaced alot of components due to that including the cooler, VB and solenoids. Got it all back together and had a 1-2 and 5-6 flare/skip when the trans was cold. Once warmed up for about 20 minutes, perfect. The Ford reman valve body I used the bore for 2-6 valve was not done properly. It held the valve when cold, but the bore on the aluminum valve body must have expanded hot and the trans shifted perfectly hot. I should have checked the reman VB before install. Oh well, lesson learned.
Thanks for sharing. Have not had that problem yet, but will start checking.
La ensambla de memoria, ojalá en Mexico existiera alguien como tú
I'm sure there is.
Great video. Nice step by step instructions. Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Awesome work keep up with the videos
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. It was a great help while I was reassembling the transmission for my wife's car after the torque converter failed and threw a bunch of metal through it. The MotorCraft seal kit comes with new bonded pistons and filter at a very good price. I made sure and replaced that 3-5 cushion plate BTW 😉 Thanks again.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
@Chance RockAuto
What all did you replace? I’m trying to understand. He says the zip kit and trans go kit. Really just trying to get this thing back on the road. I’m looking at a torque converter, a new pump?, the sonnax zip kit, and new fibers?
Maybe someone can just list the rebuild kit they ordered? I’m trying to save money, the fibers all measure out like new? Someone’s been in this trans before
@@huntermcclellan8425
I replaced the frictions, what you refer to as fibers, with the raybestos kit. All the pistons, seals and filter. These came in the motorcraft seal kit. As both pistons on the center support were gone. The torque converter, which I picked up at AutoZone. I got a new front pump, main valve body, and trans cooler from the local Ford dealership.
I had extensive metal contamination from the torque converter failure. I spent a lot of time cleaning. Be extremely thorough on the solenoid side of the valve body. It could lead you in the wrong direction to try to list the kits by number as there are three different generations of this transmission.
Thanks for the video Tom. Couldn't have done it without you.
Glad to help, thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Oh, I've watched it five times already and watching it again. Probably will watch a few more times. Gotta make sure I only have to do this one time.
This is the 4th vid I've watched from you. 6r140, u140, 4r70 and this one. Just started building around 2 months ago. I have 35yrs doing mechanics, are tranny guy left and the boss asked if I wanted to start building. Couldn't pass up the opportunity, so here is am getting ready to do my first 6f35. Just finished a u140 today and your vid helped in finding the failure. Gonna have to check your vids to see if you have those GM 6spds front wheel drives. Those ones that are a nightmare for the installer.... gmc arcadia's. Joes minottos in Stowe Pa. Thanks for the very informative vids👍👍
Thanks for watching them. Not many wanting to get in this business anymore. Hope all goes well for you. Have quite a few different ones. Early videos the camera was a little too far away and those will be redone as they come in. I try not to do the same transmission again unless there were major changes.
Wow! Your knowledge and the skills demonstrated are incredible! My wife bought a 2013 Ford Certified One Owner Escape Titanium 2 L, 6 speed in 2015 with 19,000 miles and it has been a fantastic car! Odometer at 76,000 miles now and one morning last November she started the car and put it in drive. There was a jerk when it engaged so she put it in park, turned it off and on, then drive with the same result. She pulled out of the garage and since it was drivable proceeded to the grocery store. Pulling out from a stop sign, the car lost power, acted like it had stalled, my wife pulled to the curb, but the engine was still running. She turned it off and back on and the check engine light was lit but the transmission started working again. I checked the code when she returned and it showed P0713 transmission fluid temp. Cleared code and we drove it for several days without problem. Due to our concern, we drove to the Ford dealership in our small town and they thought possibly the sensor could be intermittent and/or the fluid might be dirty. After running some diagnostics and checking some voltages they suggested changing the transmission fluid and replacing the sensor, which they did. Car has been running fine until last week, similar transmission issue when we set off from home except no check engine light. Wife turned off the car, restarted it, put it in drive, tried selecting sport mode then regular mode with no luck. Turned car on and off several times started working again. I checked for codes when we got home and it showed P0756 B which checking online said it was Shift Solenoid B stuck off. I cleared the code and my wife refused to drive it. It sat outside for several days and I decided to test it Sunday. I drove to a nearby empty parking lot and backed up, drove forward around the parking lot, put it in sport mode and manually shifted with no issues. Took it out on the highway, accelerated to 55 mph no problem. Shut off car and restarted, this time in sport mode, no problem. Reversed, drove forward, accelerated, for 8 miles no issues. Drove it again yesterday, no issues. However, my wife doesn't trust it and neither do I. I did some research and found that a transmission filter replacement (which could be dirty) requires removal and opening of the transmission with no guarantee of a cure. Replacement of the solenoid B only requires removing the transmission pan, refilling with fluid BUT should all the other solenoids be replaced at the same time? I spoke to a local mechanic who recently replaced a faulty transmission on a 2013 Ford Escape similar to ours with a rebuilt unit purchased through the local Car Quest. It started vibrating and making noise several months after he installed it. He contacted the rebuild company and they said there was nothing wrong and he disagreed. (It has a 3-year warranty). They said he had to replace all the solenoids and test it again before they would replace it. He again told them it had a problem but his only recourse was to wait for those parts to arrive, remove the ones from the rebuild and install they ones they shipped, same problem. They finally sent him another rebuilt transmission but would only reimburse him for 1/2 his labor cost! So now our concern is there is no guarantee that a warranted, rebuilt unit won't have issues of its own somewhere down the road with a possible breakdown in the middle of nowhere without cell service to call for help! You are obviously a meticulous master of your craft and I wish you were close to our rural Idaho town! I am not a mechanic nor do I have the tools and equipment required to attempt a rebuild of our existing original transmission. I have found used transmissions with supposedly low miles online but that is no indication of their reliability and there is advertising for rebuilt transmissions, some of which have poor reviews. The nearest advertised transmission rebuilders are hundreds of miles away and would require trailering the Escape to them, with another unknown being the manufacturer of the required parts to do a complete rebuild. We just need a path to move forward and we're hopeful you can assist. Is this transmission on its way out? Should we have a local mechanic replace the solenoids only? Have a warranted rebuilt unit installed? Please advise.
The Ford version of this transmission is worse than the Chevy version, IMHO. I don't like what I have seen fromalot of these "remanufacturing facilities". You did not mention if the computer had been programmed for the transmission that was put in. "Sometimes" you can get by without it, sometimesyou can't. My suggestion would be to goto Ford and have one put in and they will also program it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission 👍👍
Have you considered gutting that internal filter and installing a changeable external filter?
I've a nasty problem my 15 Fusion SE 2.5 L was hit on drivers side wheel and broke off CV axle and left end piece in transmission . What would be the best way to remove it ? It broke off clean flush against tranny and there's nothibng to grab a hold of . Is there a metal obstruction that would prevent pushing in approximately 3/8 in rod from other side banging it out ? Or get a piece and weld it to the broken piece and pull it out from drivers side ? Or bite the bullet get the seal out wasting all that fluid and replacing both fluid and seal ?
2011 Fusion 2.5 with almost 236,000 miles on the original transmission. I'm going to rebuild it soon because its shifts slow. Car runs like a champ still minus a little lifter chatter.
First of all thank you for your videos. They have been a huge help in what has turned into a nightmare. I have a 2017 Escape that had a torque converter failure. Having worked in the automotive field for around 10 years I decided to take it on myself. I removed the transmission, disassembled, and cleaned everything up as there was a lot of material/metal. Unfortunately the only clutch and steel kit I could find available was on eBay so I’m kinda weary about that but nonetheless replaced all the clutches and steels along with any gasket the kit came with. Also installed a transgo shift kit in the valve body and changed the valve in the front pump. Aside from the material and some burnt steels on the drum everything looked good in the transmission so I reassembled and reinstalled. Now it seems to have no reverse and there is a delay followed by a bang before it goes into drive. When it does go into drive it does not seem to be in first gear based on the speed vs rpm. Thinking I may have missed something I took it out and disassembled it again and found nothing wrong so decided to replace front pump in case there was wear I was missing and the pressure output was insufficient. Again the same symptoms after reinstalling. Using a basic code reader shows no codes but it has has the transmission fault service now message in the dash so I’m assuming the code reader just can’t see them. All the resistances of the solenoids were good when tested thru the connector. Is it still possible in missing something or would most damage be noticeable? Do you have any suggestions of what to do next? I’ve been messing with this thing for about a month now and am at a loss. Thank you for any help you can offer in advance
Did you replace the molded pistons in the drums? I would look at the one in the low/reverse side of the support especially.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission No they were not replaced. The original ones did not seem bad when the transmission was disassembled and since it was I was able to limp it home after the initial failure I assumed it should be ok. No tears that I could see plus the rubber material still seemed pliable so it was lubricated and went back in. Is this a part that can look fine but still be bad? If so it looks like I’ll be laying in the driveway for hours again unfortunately. Is there anything else specific I should look for in the process if that is the case? Thanks again for taking the time to respond it is beyond appreciated.
Look closely at the 1-2-3-4 and low reverse clutches. If evrything is ok there, probably a valve body problem.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission after reading through some of your other comments I found the specifications for the clutch and steel thicknesses. Ended up with 2 of the clutch/steel sets I received in the kit being under specifications so went and got all the clutches and steels from a local ford dealership which all checked basically right at your posted specs. Definitely highlights the importance of a quality kit. Also replaced the 5 molded pistons just in case I was missing something since I really didn’t want to do it again. Got everything buttoned up yesterday afternoon and today had a successful 4ish hour round trip drive so I’m ecstatic. Just wanted to post a conclusion and again thank you for all your help. Your responses were definitely a big help and very appreciated.
Great video sir
Thanks
tom quick question its been 7 8 months since i had one open myself... lincoln tech .... but the final drive/differentail that is what the ptu stripes out is the inner teeth on that final drive ?
Don't know, never had a final drive stripped on one.
Are there any end play clearance's, or any thing to check for besides obvious defects on metal components before replacing items contained in rebuild kit?
There are clutch pack clearances provided. However there are no parts to change the clearances. Their thinking is if you use the right parts it will come out correctly. So it is imperative you use quality parts. Transtec kit with Raybestos clutches is my recommendation. They are the supplier for most OEM.
6f35 Question? is a 6f35 a 6f35, or are there different variations depending on 2x4 or 4x4 application? can i get one out of a car and put it in my escape? do i need an escape rebuild kit ? or any of 6f35 kit will do? thanks in anvance
No. Yes the parts vary between the 2wd and 4wd. The rebuild kit is the same between the 2wd and 4wd but the clutches are different bewteen the Gen1 and Gen2.
Hello again tom. another question at 25:49 your left hand pinky is by a slot that leads to a hole. What goes in it ?
If you are talking about the little round hole, some versions have a chain guide that has a tip of it that goes in there. Watch the 6F35 of Nov. 23rd @ the 53:36 mark.
Hey good video. I have a question, Im working on a 2009 Escape 3.0 and i have a faulty TR sensor. Do i need to remove the valve body in order to replace the TR sensor? Thanks in advance
Yes. Pull the roll pin out towards you, don't try to drive it in. I use a pair of end cutters to grab ahold of it then roll it towards me and it will pull it out.
Great video. What would a full rebuild cost? Removed and installed. I recently had a shop do mine. When I first went in there they swore up and down that it was going to be $1000-$1500. Once they had everything apart they came back with $4000 because they said there was more damage than they thought. There were some other questionable things that happened along the way. Im in NW Indiana. Thanks
Thanks. 1500 is about right for labor only. Probably between 3500 and 4500. A fair amount of these are not even rebuildable, there is so much damage. More so than most transmissions. Next time you need a shop go to the ATRA website and go to the shop finder tab. Will give you more of a chance of finding a good shop. Link is in the description. Closest good guy I know to you is still too far away. He is in the middle of Tennessee.
Hi There. I have a 2013 Ford kuga awd 1.6 turbo with 6f 35 trans. 139000kms. (86000miles). Initially I had trouble on with slipping/not engaging 3rd h\gear. I took the trans apart but the frictions and seals were all ok. Frictions possibly 30% worn. I replaced them all and reassembled following your excellent video.The only thing i found was one ball bearing ( inthe one way valves) in the valve pack had worn through the separator plate. I replaced the plate. Now the trans works well most of the time but sometimes comes up with a fault -Trans malfunction. service now message on the dash. Fault code P073D. It seems to go into limp mode, ie won't change above third gear. There might be a hint of creep forward in neutral. If I stop and turn off the ignition then restart the trans works fine again. Fault always seems to happen when i start from cold and stop to open my front gate about 30metres from my house, also slightly downhill. Ambient temp about 15degrees celsius. Any ideas appreciated, Wayne, New Zealand.
P073D is a code that sets when the transmission is unable to engage neutral. The creep forward plus the code would indicate a problem with either low/reverse and or the 3-5-R clutches. Since it is intermittent, I would lean more to a valve body problem. I don't know if you have access to it over there, but I would try a bottle or two of red Lubegard. If that does not cure it, I would go back through the valve body and see if any valves are dragging.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for that prompt and informative advice. i will try the red lubeguard. I see you fitted a Sonnax zip kit to your trans. would that be a recommended move? I forgot to mention,( although i don't think there is any connection) that the radiator electric fan comes on after about 10 seconds after starting the motor and runs continuously(with air cond turned off). Indicating something is hot even though everything is cold. Cheers Wayne.
Sounds like there is a temp sensor bad somewhere. I put a zip kit in every one I do. Valves are very prone to wear.
Btw do you recommend fords merc LV or maybe amsoil that some guys swear by ?
Never a bad thing to use the recommended fluid. Having said that we use a full synthetic in most everything, even these, and it works fine. I knew someone who was an Amsoil nut. He swore by it also. I have never used it so I don't know for sure but it would probably be fine. This unit is not as sensitive as some of them out there.
@ Curmudgeon Transmission Have you ever installed the transgo kit and the sonnax kit together they look like they both adress different areas of the trans.
I put the Transgo parts in the pump and the Sonnax in the valve body.
Quick question so I'm in the process of removing my transmission on my fusion if I get a used transmission with same 8th digit vin number from mkz will it work? And does it need to be program?
Don't know how this one got by me but it did. Sorry for that. There is more to match than just the 8th VIN. You need to be looking at the tag on the transmission to make sure you are getting the same ratio. Yes it needs to be programmed for the solenoid strategy of the transmission you are putting in.
Can you please provide some guidance?
My 2014 ford escape 1.6 liter front wheel drive with 180000 miles will occasionally loose power stilghly when acceleraring, I pulled the following code : P0741 and PO744. I changed the transmission fluid; I did 4 drains and refills. I also changed the valve body and updated the valve Solenoid strategy number and the solenoid body ID. I resetted the learned transmission adaptation but the issue is still there. Is the torque convertor out?
Probably. May have a worn out pump also.
At the 19 minute mark do those steels have an up side marked on them or does it not make a difference?
The steels no, the pressure plate, yes. Stepped side up.
Tom, could you provide us with the part number for everything you use in this assembly?
Did you find all the part numbers? My rebuild kit didn't come with the o-rings for the 4-5-6 clutch apply piston. No idea where the part numbers are for them. They seem to come in one kit on the video
Question? Is the metal gasket that from the valve body side pan meant to be reused. To be clear, the pan gasket not the plate with 30 holes in it ?
Kit should come with a new one. I would use silicone. Ultra black.
At the 29 minute mark, the snap ring was put in improperly and one of the ears at the 6 o'clock position is broke off, do you think the case is a total loss or do you think it will be alright with the snap ring in the proper position?
It is a judgement call. Depends on which lug breaks. They say you can be missing up to 2 lugs and it still work. Most I have seen you can. I had one I was not taking a chance and changed the case.
During my assembly, my sprang assembly is absolutely stuck. Didn’t put much force pushing it in but it’s definitely in the right alignment, just stuck. Won’t come out or go further in. Any suggestions?
Just going to have to try and get it level and it should slide in or come out, but it is going to be extremely difficult. You may even damage it doing it.
The post in the middle of the case shown at the 9 minute mark, looks like it has seals around it, do they get replaced?
Yes.They are sealing rings. If you don't have the tools to expand and resize them. You can stretch themby hand and resize them with a hose clamp.
Is there a way to know the stamp number on the solenoids without disassembly ?
Fusion 2014 2.5l , I have the service manual but it doesn't say about the stamp numbers no idea why
And if my friend, with same fusion same factory, have found the numbers...Would mine have the same as his?
So i can order the part without the hassle 😅
You do not have to disassemble the transmission. You do have to pull the solenoid off to see it. No other way to get it.
I want to know where you can find a diagram of this transmission. My 15 Fusion SE 2.5 L got a severe hit on drivers side wheel. Snapped off cv axle flush with transmission case and control arm . Nowhere to grab the broken end piece the shaft . I told them if they could remove the opposite side cv axle they might be able slide a rod and hammer it out . A shop told me that the ring holding it in place might have mushroom or the gears making contact with that shaft might’ve now been messed up not lining up as before. No way to get it out . In that case swap out the transmission . Is this right ?
You might be able to get a screwdriver in from the other side and pop it out. If not removal of the transmission is required. Take the bell housing off and you should be able to get in there and pop the axle out then.
Is this the same 6F35 used in the 2013 escape 1.6l fwd?
Yes, there were some changes to the chain guide so you may have a different looking one. If you have the yellow one they recommend you update it. There were complaints of it making a hoot noise. I have not seen it happen yet.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission where did you get the rebuild kit?
@@BrandonBrownVlogs We get our kits from WIT or Transtar. Link is in the description.
I have a 6f35 fwd in 2013 fusion 2.0 turbo. Something blew a hole through the converter housing around the differential. Question i have is could I put a used 6f35 in from a different engine size and install the correct torque converter? Good salvage yard 2.0 turbos transmissions are not available around me and I’m sure this transmission is not worth rebuilding. Thanks
Short answer, doubtful. Long answer, bell housing would have to have the same bolt pattern. Then you would need to make sure it had the same ratios. The tag does not give you that information. You would have to take the bellhousing of and count the teeth of the diff and the sprockets.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ok. Thanks.
Good job, from Brasil.
Thanks
Thank you for the video!
I just bought a 2019 Ford Fusion S(2.5L I4 F ), and the mileage is 88236. I found out I had a problem with my transmission, especially when I shifted from 2nd to 3rd. The shift from 2nd to 3rd is very harsh. You have to accelerate very gently to avoid this. Once the car got up to high speeds there was no difficulty shifting gears. I took the car to AAMCO for service and they told me the transmission fluid was contaminated, no fault codes were detected, and my transmission needed to be disassembled for inspection. I'd like to know what's wrong with my transmission, and is it a common problem? What should do now, take apart the transmission by their advice or flush the transmission, refill the transmission fluid, and change the shift solenoid B to see what 's gonna happen next?
Thanks for watching. You are in the mileage area where it could need an overhaul. These have several problem areas, but there are other things that can affect the shifts. If you don't feel comfortable with their diagnosis then get a second opinion. If you have not been doing regular maintainence on it I would think twice about changing the fluid. There comes a point where you can actually cause more harm by doing it. Visit this site. atra.com/ShopFinder
Hey, I get a P0741 code. 1.6L fusion 2013. The scanner I used suggested to replace valve body. Would I have to get the transmission rebuilt as well? All gears shift great. Except from 2 to 3, it shifts hard. And when the trans is hot, itll shift from P to D hard. But the gears shift great. Any advice/ knowledge on this would be amazing. Cant find anything on that code.
You either have a worn out valve body and/or torque converter. Right now you can get the valve body from Ford for about the same price as doing the repair kits for the valve body. It is sold in 2 different halves so get both. You may have to reprogram it afterwards. Sometimes it will relearn itself. But if it will not after about 10-15 minutes you will need to have it reprogrammed with the tag they will give you in the solenoid portion of the valve body.
Had the exact same issue, it was not the valve body but a complete failure within and needed to be rebuilt. I changed the valve body and reprogrammed the strategies but it was a waste of time and money. You may need a full rebuild and cross your fingers because I also had to replace the bottom of the aluminum case because it was cracked on the inside. This video is a fantastic rebuild step-by-step.
Thank you guys 🙏, I will surely look into a rebuild then. I was thinking of throwing a valve body at it. I'll try and find a shop for the rebuild, have yet to find one near by
Hi! I have a Ford Fusion 2014 2.5L with this transmission and it makes a noise only at 120 kph (75 mph) and over (sound like humming/similar to a wheel bearing), but when speed decreases the noise immediately disappears. Do you know or have any suggestions what is the problem might be?
Noises are hard even when you are there to hear them. Not a common complaint. They do have a problem with the bushing that holds the driver's side axle in the case wearing out. Is there fluid leaking out of that seal? Possible that there might be wear there and putting the differential out of alignment. Also look really close at your tires and make sure one is not separating. Tire problems show up at higher speeds usually around 70 mph.
First time rebuilding one of these at my shop. Is it normal to hear the sprag gear or one way clutch when it’s all put back together? After I got the half’s put back together and installed the solenoid body and torque converter I spun the converter and could hear the one way clutch ticking.
Yes it is normal.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you so much brother
@@jrzguitarist No problem, thanks for watching.
Hey great videos. Watching your video is the only reason I even tried to do my own trans. Mine just ended up being the torque converter came apart all the sudden and jammed the filter. Cleaned everything and put it back together. Didn't find any damage anywhere. So maybe it will work 62k on it. Just out of warranty. To get to my question. Is it necessary to replace valve body paper if they aren't damaged? Thanks.
Thanks. No, they are bonded gaskets and will work fine as long as they are in good shape. If it was mine, I would put the 3-5-R cushion plate and a Sonnax zip kit in the valve body while in there.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission This is a 2018 escape. Should I just get a stock replacement cushion plate or do you recommend one. Thanks again.
Unfortunately, you have to use the stock one right now. Sonnax is not making a fix for the 6F35 right now. They do make one for the 6T40 which is similar, but I would bet you would have a hard time getting your clearance correct. As they use different thickness of that plate. Never tried to make it work, it may be possible.
any parts or specific brand of parts I should use to rebuild this transmission to make it last longer
Transtec rebuild kit, Raybestos clutches, Filtran filter, Omega Machine & Tool or Durabond bushings. They are both good but Durabond first choice. Sonnax Zip Kit for the valve body, although right now you can buy the valve body from Ford for about the same price. Don't know how long that will last. Sonnax also for the bearing kit to save the case by the passenger axle seal. Ford for the pump that is usually bad. If the pump gears are good but only has worn valves use the Transgo kit for that. I usually just buy a pump from Ford. Check with Ford before you buy your hard parts that may be bad from elsewhere. Most of the time they are pretty competitive.
Hello, is there any difference between 1,5 and 2,5 2wd 6f35 transmissions? I have 2,5 with 170 k kilometers on it. Think about possible replacement.
Do believe the bellhousing bolt pattern is different.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission , thank you
What kind of vehicle this out of
Good morning, just assembled the same unit from 2010 escape. Have a air leak concern from the front piston on the center support. Is there a bleed hole that allows a fair sized leak when pressurized? Rear piston holds well.
There's a bleed hole on both. Should apply the same. Did you take the pistons out? Fairly common for them to fail.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission , LS kit, all pistons, filter, and pump bushing. Acts as if the orfice or bleed off is larger in the front piston. Seems to leak from the top of the support housing somewhere. First 6F. Built several GM 6t75.....6F seems cheap in manufacturing in comparison.
@@SThomp1 Had the same thing happen yesterday on a 6T40 gen 3. 2-6and 4-5-6 pistons blowing air. Took them back out and checked them. Everything looked good. Put them back in and they checked fine. Not going to take a chance though. I will change them again. Might be okay, but not worth it to me.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you for sharing your advice. Its greatly appreciated.
I have an Escape of the fourteenth year with 80000. and at 3, 5, and R, when turned on, it twitches both cold and hot. what do you think is the problem?
Would be really hard to say without a thourough check out, but it's possible the 3-5-R cushion plate is broken. Very common for it to break. Which would entail needing a rebuild.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you very much!
First time rebuilder here, I ordered all bad parts + all friction plates , the direct clutch and the clutch on the same piston are in spec. According to my manual,but the other three, low/reverse, forward&intermediate were not, what are the parts to get correct spec? I don’t see any listed that are selective.I am thinking just new wave plates and steel plates
There is no way to adjust the clearance. Try to use a good clutch like Raybestos and the quality will be there and you won't have to worry about different thicknesses. The 2-6 clutch uses .037 cushion plate, .133 steels, .071 clutches, clearance .060-.100. 3-5-R .250 pressure plate, .062 clutches, .134 steels, .032 cushion, clearance .016-.068. 4-5-6 .070 steels, .063 clutches, .216 pressure plate, .061 snap ring, clearance .037-.070. 1-2-3-4 .036 cushion, .069 steels, .073 clutches, .312 pressure plate, .118 snap ring, clearance .032-.072. Low/Rev .204 pressure plate, .064 clutches, .070 steels, .042 cushion, clearance .035-.080.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks I got a 8f35 next then 6f55 , that’s helps alot
I just replaced the valve body on my Escape with this transmission. Now it can only shift from Park (P) to neutral (R, N, D, L). Do you think this is because I reinstalled it with the manual valve misaligned?
Hey, did you even figure out what you did wrong? Having the same issue!
@@andreasparpas4875 Check out around 1:01:45 where he points out where the slotted part of the manual valve needs to line up. You need to make sure the manual valve is sticking out when you install it so you can line it up
@@jeremybrandelik4109 damn I thought forsure I had it slide in. Would doing it with the transmission in the car make any difference? Should the car be in neutral when I install it?
@@andreasparpas4875 I installed it with the transmission in the car with the car in park iirc
@@jeremybrandelik4109 sweet. Thanks for taking the time to reply I really appreciate it. Going to give it another go!
Man you know these things like the back of your hand... that's awesome. There's definitely job security with the failure rate of these it seems. My buddy has a 2015 Transit Connect 1.6l. The tag on the tranny is DV6P 7000 UB so I assume it's the second generation one. He was getting off the highway and it just stopped pulling like it went into neutral. Let it sit for a few minutes and it'll drive again... forward & reverse if you're below like 20mph. It starts this whining / grinding / clicking noise and that's when it acts like it's in neutral. If you're sitting stationary after first starting it... you can put it down through the gears and it wants to pull forward and bavkward pretty hard. It doesn't take long and it will start making the noise and won't move. Sometimes the noise stops and it'll move again. I'd appreciate your professional opinion and advise before I tear into this deal. Thank you in advance!
This one sounds like it may be pretty damaged. Of course you never know until you actually get in there. Right now you can buy the pump and 2 valve body halves from the dealer for not much more than the Sonnax and Transgo kits to fix both of those parts. You can count on those being bad. The 3-5-R Cushion plate will need to be replaced even if it is not broken, but it sounds like it is. When it breaks it can cause a tremendous amount of damage, sometimes to the point of being unrebuildable. The low/reverse Belleville spring I would replace even if it is not broken also. Bare minimum this is what I put in them. Rebuild kit with pistons and clutches, filter, 3-5-R cushion plate, low/reverse Belleville, pump, valve body, Sonnax #144281-01K and torque converter. After that, whatever else is damaged. If the solenoids are replaced it will need to be programmed. Even if they are not after evrything is complete you will need a scanner capable of resetting the adaptives and the you will need to drive the vehicle for a while till it relearns the shifts.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you sir! I really appreciate you willingness to share your knowledge and the time it takes to do so. You've got a good soul brother... thanks again!
Thanks for watching. Here is the disassembly video for the Gen 1, same for the Gen 2. There is another for the one with the start/stop motor if needed. czcams.com/video/6pTJss9jC54/video.html
What assembly lube do you recommend?
Dr. Tranny (Lubegard). Comes in 3 different thicknesses. Red (thinnest), Blue and Green (thickest). I use blue and green.
I have a 2014 Fusion SE AWD that was driving fine - went to car wash and then it started having issues when I went to leave - reverse works fine and first revs really high then slams into gear and goes forward but it’s like it’s slipping still or driving in 5th from a standstill kind of thing.
Engine light and Throwing the P0750 code on my scanner. It’s saying shift solenoid A. I have bought the ZIP kit and a shift solenoid as well as a pan gasket but I’m wondering if this will be needing a full rebuild? 64,000 miles on the car. Had dealership charge me 600 to drain the fluid and tell me it’s throwing the code after I already told them what it was saying. They said 50/50 if it’s gonna need a new transmission or if it can be a simple fix by changing the solenoid. What are your thoughts?
Since it started after washing it, I would disconnect the harness and blow it out with air. Clear the codes and see how it works.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I let it sit for a month and cleared the codes and it’s still doing it - same code keeps coming back saying shift solenoid A failed but the condition seems like when the piston fails according to the other video on here so I’m worried it may need a whole rebuild. I may as well just rebuild the whole thing I guess.
It may need a whole rebuild. Since it has been setting for a whole month the connector should be dry, however it may be corroded if it did get water in it. If it was mine I would be disconnecting and cleaning the connector before I condemmed it to a whole rebuild. These do have a ton of internal issues. Hope all goes well.
I'm rebuilding a 6F35 now.
I have an issue with the 1-2-3-4 cutch measurement. It's supposed to be .002-.072 Mine is .078 and I've replaced the friction plates and steels. Also, when I took the trani apart, the original steels looked burned/heated. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Dave
There are no provisions for changing clearance on that. Manual says if it comes out wrong you used wrong components. So, the only thing you can do is try and find either steels that are thicker than what you have or clutches. Not uncommon for them to be burned. Check your pistons real close, especially if you are not replacing them. Put the kits in the pump and valve body or replace them with NEW ones.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for the reply. I replaced all the pistons. Purchased a new pump and solenoid pack, and put in a Zip kit.
Could the 1-2-3-4 clutch wave plate have flattened out?
It's possible. Make sure when you get the cushion plate, they give you the Ford one and not the Chevy one. Might even want to get it from Ford.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I'm going to measure it when it comes in. I get all my parts from Transtar Industries. Great support, all the parts I need, and quick shipping.
thanks very much for making this video! trying to help a friend out with a rebuild and his has two broken retaining ears from the clip being put in the wrong spot from the factory. any suggestions on where to get a new main case? or can this be welded by a skilled welder? thoughts?
Depends on where it is broken. They claim a couple of broken ones can still be used depending on where they are. Slauson's, WIT or Bishop's. Links are in the description.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission if the output shafts are on the left side (looking at the case) , the two at the 6 o'clock position are broken off.
The gap in the clip ring was at the 4:30 or 5 o'clock spot. Wear marks on the clip ring show it had to be assembled that way
@@arrrcapnjohn You could probably use it.
@@arrrcapnjohn opening should be at 3O'clock.
Is it just me, or did you not put the pump and the filter inside before assembling the case halves?
4:57
does this build support a 3 litre 2012 ford fusion. AWD?
Everything is the same except the differential will look different and the case shape. There are several different oil scoops that go around the chain so it may not look like this one. Right now you can get both halves of the valve body from Ford for about the same price as the Sonnax zip kit. Will require reprogramming with the new solenoid strategy though.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission damn sounds a little more harder then I expected. thank you for responding quickly! Im doing my first transmission and transfer case soon
What mileage do you typically see these fail at? Seems like you've done it a time or two.
Mid 100,000, but have seen a few in the 60,000. If they could fix the valve body and 3-5-R cushion plate problems it would be a good unit. Seems like the early version is the ones that fail with less miles.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission would you say if transmission oil was changed every 30,000 miles it would last longer? Say 250,000 miles?
@@americanchauvinist1210 You never know, but I do believe in regular maintenance like that. I do mine when my tags are due, change all filters and oils. Makes it easier to remember.
@Thunder Life Studios Good chance if you had done it when the problem first started, you might have gotten by with replacing the valve body.
What was the problem with it, mine struggles to shit from 1-2 when cold
Gracias campeón
Thanks for watching.
Can you give a detailed parts list with costs? Looking to buy some Ford Escapes at the auction to repair. I really appreciate any help. Great videos.
Not going to be able to do that. Each transmission will not always need the same parts. The early units are prone to more damage than the later ones. Somewhere between 20-30 percent will be so damaged they will not be rebuildable. Price wise you will need to contact the parts places and see what they are getting for those parts in the part of the country you are in. What I can give you is the bare minimum parts you will need and then each one will need whatever else gets damaged. On these you should put an L/S kit with pistons, bushing kit, filter, 3-5-Reverse cushion plate and Superior part # K099. Valve bodies and pumps are always worn out and you will need the Zip kit from Sonnax for the valve body and the kit from Transgo for the pump. Which kit you will need will depend on which generation of transmission you have. Every once in a while, Ford will sell the pumps and valve bodies for not much more than the parts to fix them so you just need to call, and you might get lucky. If the valve body gets replaced, you will need to reprogram the computer. Transtar has a deal with a company. They will give you the box to do it and you pay for each program you do. As far as the torque converter, me personally I wouldn't use them from WIT or Transtar. We use Precision of New Hampton. Very good success with them. Otherwise, you should find you a good company in your area. Looks like you are in the Tampa area. WIT and Transtar both have locations there, don't know about PNH. Links to all of those places are in the description of every video. Good luck on your venture. Thanks for watching. BTW, use Transtec rebuild kits with Borg Warner or Raybestos clutches and Filtran filters when you can get them.
Where is best place to get the parts from?
We get most of ours from WIT and Transtar.
Went and got a diagnostic on my fusion. got these codes back. Trans was one day and couldn’t drive it the next. Should i rebuild or replace?
P0218-00 Transmission Fluid Over Temperature Condition
P0219-00 Engine Overspeed Condition P0722-00 Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0731-00 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio
P0735-00 Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio
P0766-00 SSD Performance Stuck Off P1783-00 Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P2703-00 Transmission Low/Reverse Clutch Apply Time Range/Performance
P2704-00 Transmission OD Clutch Apply Time Range/Performance
It is hard to say till you get in there and see the damage. These are bad about having so much damage it is better to replace them, but you just don't know till you get in there. Does need to come out though.
Great vid!! i installed a new valve body in a 2013 fusion but the gears wont seem to come up on the dash...it just says not in park.. any tips?
I don't think you have the detent in the neutral switch properly.
Ok thanks I'm going to try pulling it down again
If you can get the pan off in the car you can fix it without pulling it out again.
Really.. that would be awesome because I actually took the valve body out twice and I really dont want to do it again...how can I get this done?
There is a slot in the neutral switch that the detent needs to be in. Just take the detent off and put it in that slot and reinstall it.
Thank you for the video! It has been a big help.
I have a ‘13 Fusion with this 6F35. It makes a noise when shifted from park to drive. Sounds like a wind down gear engagement.
I just pulled the front case half off and found the thrust bearing is missing between the pump stator and hub. Do you think that could cause the wind down noise?
Glad it helped. More than likely.
57:40
Could you please tell me the stamp number for the TCC solenoid?
You have to get it off of your old solenoid. Needs to be the same number that was on there, they are not all the same. You may need to get a magnifying glass to see it, sometimes it is very faint.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Right, the parts guy at the dealership basically just told me the same thing. They wanted to replace the entire valve body and charge me $2000. The error code is for the TCC solenoid "Stuck off" - not sure if it mechanical or electrical failure. But, I figure it would be useful to replace only that solenoid to start with. I thoroughly enjoyed your video btw.
What year are we talking about? Where the plate plugs into the solenoids, do they have different colors or are they all a white/yellowish color?
How are you my dear friend? after rebuilding this transmission and also the tork converter, and generating fault p0741. need a tcm update?
Are you saying you got the code after all this, it was not there before? Did you reset the adaptives and relearn the shifts.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes it was already there, and it did a lot of damage. And now after rebuilding everything it still remains
@@automaticositapetininga After a rebuild you need to clear all codes and then reset the adaptives. After this it will require some driving to relearn the shifts. If the P0741 returns again, you have a valve body or torque converter problem.
Does the bushing for the drivers side axle only install from the inside?
No it can be installed while the transmission is in the vehicle from the outside.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you so much for the reply, now I need to find one! Mine has shredded to the point that the axle was drooping far enough to make fluid leak. The seal looks good but the axle has some scratches.
You can probably polish the axle with some fine sandpaper. WIT or Transtar, order the Superior K099 for 2013 and older, K0199 for 2014 up. Links are in the description.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you!!!!!
2015 Escape 1.6 AWD 160kmi. Got the common loud whining noise. Used to
be only a few seconds after start up, now always whines. Sounds just
like a bearing, but I don't know much about this 6F35. Have P0219 over
speed code. Seems like shifting into 3rd, then it goes bonkers and over
revs. Also sometimes NO REVERSE unless I shut it off, wait a few seconds
and restart. Drained some sample fluid, saw no metal. CLOGGED FILTER?
TORQUE CONVERTOR?
Never know till you get in there. Big problems are the valve body and the 3-5-Reverse cushion plate breaking. Definitely sound like rebuild time. Don't drive it too much, when that cushion plate breaks it does a lot of damage. See quite a lot of these that it ruins the case, so much damage they are un-rebuildable.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for getting back to me! Never rebuilt one of these before. How will I be able to tell if valve body is bad?
@@Rob-pg7rb They are all bad, just a matter of how bad it is. The valve body and the 3-5-rev cushion plate are the weak areas in these units. Depending on where you are I have been told that the dealer sells the valve body really cheap. If you do not need solenoids you can buy just the piece with the valves in it. If you end up buying the whole thing with solenoids it may have to be reprogrammed. I got a video on solenoid strategies that explains this. If you put the zip kit in from Sonnax make sure you get the clip for the sleeve in the groove, I have had 2 recently that I either missed the groove or somehow it is pushing it off, jury is out on that. I have had good success with the kit though. There is a video about that also ( quits moving after 15 Minutes ).
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Looks like I may have torn down the transmission for nothing. LOL. After I tore it down I remembered that when I heard the whine/light grinding noise was with the car running in Park, so it could only mean a few things. Torque convertor! DAM!! Rookie mistake!! If you shake the convertor , you can hear the exact noise it was making while running. I think the convertor actually has clutches inside it? I got lazy and just trusted the convertor was good because no converter codes.
Anyways, the trans looks good besides the 3-5-R steels are pretty bad. I was fully expecting to see a dam broken snap spring and wave steel on the 3-5-R because it was slipping bad going into 3rd. But it was also not going into Drive or Reverse after it was warm.
Right now, I have the valve body apart and don't see any issues. I looked at "refurbished" valve bodies on Ebay, but I know dam well they can't just re-machine valve body like that. They would have re-size all the pistons to make it work! Their obviously sell old cleaned-up ones!
My filter is clogged pretty bad with light metallics. I'm in the process of trying to find clearance specs on the oil pump to make sure the pump is still good. The pump has some light scoring in the side channel because of some burs on the outer ring gear. I'm thinking he convertor may have kicked the bucket because of low oil pressure from the pump or clogged filter. But, I never saw any codes for any low pressure or solenoid issues. Maybe the trans oil cooler is just too small or maybe because it is mounted on top of the trans instead of in the front grill area it lets convertor and trans get too warm. This thing does have 160kmi on it though.
My local trans supplier said they would have to order the 3-5-R steels. So, I'm just gonna use my green or yellow 3M Rolloc disc to scuff them out and give them back a little grip. I will replace the wave steel though, they have that in stock. This is a budget build and just needs to last a couple thousand miles.
Thank for your videos and responses. This was was my first transmission rebuild and I've haven't felt this satisfied trying to fix something in a very long time! Hopefully this bad boy works when I put it back in!!
@@Rob-pg7rb You can get just the valve section of the valve body from Ford for about 200 bucks. Pump sounds like it might need to be replaced, hard to say without being able to see it myself. Transgo makes a drop in valve for it if yours is worn out. Absolutely change the 3-5-R cushion it will break if not replaced. Don't get to aggressive with your sanding disc. Good luck.
Great video, do you part numbers for the kits thanks
Part numbers will vary with who you buy from. WIT and Transtar links are in the description.
Excelente video, gracias por compartir, no se ingles pero viendolo ya puedo armar la transmisión, saludos
Gracias, gracias por mirar.
Which 6F35 versions should get the clutch support with the bleed ?
Every one I have seen so far has them.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks, I was confused about where it was and found that mine had the bleed. Do you have any experience with the LUK torque converter?
@@GotaGetaGoing No I don't. But LUK clutches are good. I recommend Precision of New Hampton for t/c's.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks, I am going to put one in today! Got my transmission apart and back together using your video. Very helpful . I think mine had a bad filter. No codes, just stopped moving after a few minutes then go again after short wait! I replaced frictions pistons etc.. just cause I was there. Could not find anything bad? Been 20 years since I did an automatic transmission rebuild! 41TE
All back together and seems to be working good 🎉
I replace torque converter, clutches and fluid filter and diid zip kit on valve body
Transmission no moving at all scanner shows p073d and 0 pressure in torque converter any idea what could be thanks
Who's brand of scanner are you using? what is their definition for the code? It does not come up in Alldata. Are you sure you got the linkage lined up with the manual valve when you put the valve body on?
When you did the zip kit did you drill and plug the hole in the separator plate? And are you sure it was the correct hole?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes sir!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission launch obd2 scanner
@@CurmudgeonTransmission im not sure about linkage i'll check that thanks.
Hello Tom, excellent video there, just a quick one please, can you change a solenoid on this unit while on the car, thanks
If you have enough room to get the pan off. Some vehicles there is not much room.
That means the transmission will have to come out from the car with less room. Thanks
I’ve done an in vehicle solenoid swap on fusions and escapes it’s not ideal but it can definitely be done
@@dewolfe54 thanks Dominic
Ese modelo de transmisión a qué vehículo le hace..?
It fits a multitude of Ford vehicles. Are you wondering what is in your vehicle?
Great video. How to now what transmision is in the 2017 ford fusion 2.5. Gen1 or Gen2 6f35? thanks very much.
Thanks. Gen 2 is anything after 2013.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission What do you think. A cold automatic and slow acceleration from 2nd to 3rd gear feels a pause during the shift and only then engages the 3rd gear, after reaching the working temperature it does not feel like that. The oil has been changed, 60 thousand miles have been driven. Is it a malfunction or should it be like that naturally? Thank you
Any codes in the system? Not just transmission, any at all ?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission There is no error code.
My 2018 6F35 makes a high pitched whistling sound in reverse. In addition: Especially when it's cold, you can hear a kind of whine similar to a hydraulic pump when accelerating. What can it be?
The reverse noise, is that sitting still or while moving? What condition is the fluid in?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for the answer! The reverse gear noise is heard when the car is standing still and rolling, doesn't matter. The car has 90,000km (2018) with original oil, so no change. Dealer wants to charge me for the oil-change even though it is under guarantee. The 6f35 seems to be a problematic transmission.
@@a.p.3439 Very problematic. I think you're filter is probably getting clogged with debris. Fluid change would be a waste of money if that is the case. Without being able to hear it myself that is my guess.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes, very problematic. Could it just be a comfort issue? Can the filter be clogged with 90.000km?
Sound in reverse is like in this video: czcams.com/video/-pHc7WLWDks/video.html
Sound during acceleration is like this (especially when car is cold): czcams.com/video/kJ6wS5PcdUE/video.html
Sounds like a restricted filter.
I built a 2gen 6f35 master kit, forward clutch drum, zip kit,cushion plate, torque converter and the zip kit I had issues installing solenoid pressure valve from sonnax and had to order new main valve body and didn't try to install zip kit cause it is new but already drilled separator plate and blocked balance whole will that affect transmission
Yes. Re-drill hole to .038
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you sir so much 🙏 super big help most people probably wouldn't even take the time to reply and absolutely love your videos thanks for all the info and knowledge you share
@@johnahearn3295 Welcome. Thanks for watching them.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission what size is that convert to in mm for drill bit
@@johnahearn3295 I don't know, I'm American. Lol. .95
I think I'm going to be needing to do this in the near future. I have a 2014 Transit Connect, and I have the 6F-35 transmission in it.
I'm guessing that it's probably going to need a rebuild here in the near future. So far, it drives and shifts pretty good, only odd thing I notice occationally is a delayed shift to reverse when warm (sometimes, but not always a hard shift). Other than that, it seems to shift through all the gears quite well.
Do you think that is a sign of failure?
I only am looking at the procedure now, since the van has about 230,000 miles on it, and I don't know if it's ever gotten a new/rebuilt transmission.
Are the main internal components hardy enough to survive this long and I'll be able to do an affordable rebuild, or do you think I'm going to be finding major issues inside (pump housing worn out, planet bearings worn, sun/ring teeth worn, etc.).
Would you recommend a rebuild *before* a full failure? I guess to make sure that I don't have a failure during driving that grenades the entire insides of the transmission.
In the mean time, I'm driving it as easy as I can. As few shifts under high load as I can, and doing my best to limit excessive downshifts on the highway. Trying to get as much life out of it as I can.
Thanks for any wisdom you have.
I've seen a few that make it that far. Pumps and VB's are horrible about wear. I would do it before it grenades myself. Once they do it is usually better to just get a unit from Ford.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Are the pumps rebuildable, or do the housings wear too much?
@@Kingkoopa00 Sometimes. Transgo makes a kit for it. Usually I just buy a complete pump from Ford.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Looking at the price of a new pump, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. I also figure I'll get a new drive chain and roller bearings while I'm at it. For the minimal added cost, it seems unwise to not replace those while it's all disassembled. And at 230k miles, they are probably needing replaced anyway.
@@Kingkoopa00 More than likely. Right now you can buy both halves of the valve body from Ford for not much more than the kit from Sonnax. Match the numbers on both halves even though it comes from Ford.
I’ve bought a rebuild kit for my 15 ford edge but my clothes aren’t squares off they have a double point any advice?
I am taking it that the clutches don't match what is in there. The 15 should have Gen2 clutches in it. I would not swap them around. If it does not match what should be in there get the correct ones. You are asking for shifting issues and possibly setting codes if you don't.
Dang it should’ve read your msg already put it all together with those other clutches ughhhh.. the rebuild box says it’s for 2013-up but thanks for the respond tho! And isn’t there 3 snap rings?
There are a bunch of snap rings, which 3 are you talking about?
The main 3 big snap rings I know ones like at the bottom middle and very top?
There is one at the bottom and one at the top. Then there are 2 in the middle, one on each side of the support.
1:06:52 he's not kidding. I learned the hard way. I recently replaced the valve body on my car and didn't realize the new one didn't come with that gasket. It started spewing fluid as soon as I turned the car on 😅😬😣
Happens. Thanks for watching.
Ballpark cost of a rebuild?
3500-5K probably.
i dont understand, at 53 minutes you drill a hole in a separator plate for the valve body, just to plug it up with a piece of brass?
Pretty much. You can use that. Transmission fluid or what I am using. Dr
Tranny assembly lube.
That is only if you are putting in the Sonnax Zip Kit. DO NOT do that if you ae not.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok, thanks. And thanks for putting these vids out,
@@johnsmith-dm2tq Welcome. Thanks for watching them.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission what happens if you don't drill the hole?
Man I hope someone can help, can’t find an answer. Had the case empty and was rinsing it out. Turned it over to drain and found about a 2 inch pin, maybe A 1/8 thick laying on the wash table. I have no idea where it goes and can’t find it in an exploded view. It’s just a round pin, thank you if anyone knows!
I haven’t pulled the valve body apart yet, so it’s not out of that. It looks almost like a needle bearing. Could it have come from the gear selection lever? It kinda flops around in the socket that it slides into.
Go to my Instagram and post a photo of it and I will look at it.
I figured it out I think? Looks like someone left an extra pin that retains the valve bodies in place. No idea how it didn’t get shredded
I have a 13 Escape with 70,000, and I already know its bound to break down. The car is mint, so its worth putting in a new/remanufactured transmission when the time comes. Would it be worth throwing in a later model 6F35 transmission? Have they fixed anything with the newer models?
They have changed a few things but have not made it very much more durable.
So oil pump can be rebuilt?
The valves on this one can be repaired.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission oh I see I was pushing on one and squirted everywhere lol. I love watching your videos I'm buying parts little bit every paycheck and I will attempt to rebuild mine thanks for sharing your experience with us
@@georgecampos7119 Thanks for watching.
Is this rebuild for 2wd 1.5 turbo ford escape se?
They are all basically the same. The diff, sprockets, chain and oil baffles may be different, but they are set up the same. This is also a Gen 2 valve body, if you have an older Gen 1 it will be slightly different.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission other than a rebuild kit, what other things is recommended to change out after I rebuild the transmission? Just install the rebuild kit is all?
@@galagatron5319 Filter, bushing kit, rebuild kit with pistons, Sonnax zip kit or get a new valve body, torque converter, 3-5-R cushion plate. Pumps are usually bad as well. I get them from the dealer. That is usually the minimum it will need.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission what are pumps? Thanks for your help
I am new to this. I apologize. I have to do all this myself for the first time and hopefully last. I found a transmission pump you are likely talking about. Is there another pump? Also I bought a master kit with pistons that is being delivered. It is a 6f35 master kit with pistons from cobra. They didn't offer a full description , just a picture. Do you think the cushion plates are part of this master kit?
Great video. when I'm putting it back together the input shaft (I think that's what it is..the one that installs with that tiny circlip and runs the whole length of the transmission) has lateral movement..not much, but should it have any movement if you were to try rocking it side to side? Nothing inside looks broken and I still don't know what wrong with the transmission. I was driving and heard what sounding like a power steering pump but then the car acted as if it were in neutral..I was able to get it home for about 3 miles but shutting the car off and turning it back on putting it into drive and then going...but it seemed like once it hit a certain point maybe 500 feet or so it would act like it was in neutral again and I'd pull over and repeat the process. Finally made it home. Drained the fluid and it was black...burnt black. Upon disassembly nothing appeared bad. There was a ton of buildup on the filter once I split the case but no metal shavings..Nothing. Any ideas?? First thing I thought was the torque converter or the pump, But both appeared fine once I removed it and I even put the input shaft inside the torque converter once I removed it from the vehicle and it spins freely.
It is quitting moving because the filter is sucking itself shut. Use a good quality filter, you might even want to get it from the dealer. Been a real problem with filters lately, at least for me and a few people I know. Look really close at the bushings, especially the one in the stator where the shaft comes through at the top. Did it have a burnt smell to it? If not the fluid is turning black because of metal in it. Look at where the bearing sits under the sprocket that holds the diff. Usually it is worn down there. Take a measurement of the depth it is worn down and buy the shim kit from Sonnax to fix that. Valve body and pump bores are real bad on wear. Either buy the kit from Transgo for the pump and the Zip kit for the valve body from Sonnax or get new from the dealer. Every once in the while the dealer will sell both for cheap, as cheap as the kits to fix them. Minimum I would do, Kit with clutches, filter, bushing kit, 3-5-R cushion plate, the shim kit for the diff, and the kits for the pump and VB. Even if the clutches look good I would replace them. All of the units now are real sensitive to clutch wear, the computer can only compensate so much for wear. The factory fluid is a greenish color so it is dark to begin with. We use a full synthetic in these and they have been working fine. Transgo kit is going to come with a seperator plate and some valves for the valve body also. I only use the valves for the pump. Don't go mixing plates and drilling holes from 2 different kits. I use 1 for one and the other for the other.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you so much for such a detailed response! Is it possible it was just clogged because the fluid has never been changed? I'm a tech and I've never seen that happen before but I've been reading it is quite possible. The escape has 110k on it and definitely never been changed. You're giving me hope.
More likely it is because the clutch in the converter came apart and clogged it. The clutch gives way because the pump and VB bores get worn and looses pressure and it can't take it. The lateral movement you are talking about is when the drum is out of the trans? If so that is normal. But if there is any wear in that bushing in the stator it needs replaced. That is what seals for lock up, it does not use sealing rings for it. The only bushing I would not try and replace is the one up in the drum that has that shaft you are talking about. The one up towards the front is fine to change. I have tried several different ways of pressing that other one in and every one has been to tight and requires a lot of work to make it right so I don't replace that one any more. If it is worn to bad I buy a drum.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Is there any way to determine if the clutches are bad inside the torque converter? I had a new one from rock auto and both did the same thing when spun by hand with the input shaft if that makes a difference. It did sound like a bad bearing when it was running.
Not without cutting it open. This is who we use, really good torque converters. gopnh.com/
Sir, your knowledge is awesome! However, you need to communicate with people, thanks for your video.
Thanks for watching.
What are the torque specs for the studs at the end please.
If you are talking about the pan bolts, 106 in. lbs.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission the ones at the end of the video for the cover . 1:07:07
Those are the pan bolts.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks a lot sir .I love your channel 🙏.
Thanks.
What a pro
Thanks for watching.
Very comprehensive. Good. I might consider trading in your hammer for a torque wrench though.
Got four.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I must have missed you using one, especially on the pump and valve body.
@@skutahuniai4830 Didn't miss it. I don't hardly use them any more. After 35 years I have gotten used to the feel of my impact and I am able to feel where I need to be. Muscle memory but feel free to use one yourself. If I ever get a new impact I will have to learn it all over again though.
Never underestimate the power of an old man who’s worked on one thing his whole life and done it the same way every time
@@romainberger Seriously dude? You just wanting to see your writings online? That conversation was six months ago and not with you.
Спасибо, молодец!!!!
Спасибо
why did he drill a hole around the 54 minute mark then plug it up
That is only when you are putting in the Sonnax Zip kit. If you are not putting in the kit DO NOT do that.
Thank you for the quick reply@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Where doe the filter go?
On the pump. Inside the case halves.
@@brianangel6090 Yes you have to split it apart to change the filter. So if you are going to do that you might as well rebuild it. I don't hardly ever do shift kits in any transmission. I will however put kits that repair wear in the pump and valve body. On this unit I put the Transgo valve in the pump and the Sonnax Zip kit in the valve body. I don't think those oils are worth the cost of them. I have a friend that is an Amsoil dealer and he would die if he knew I said that but that is my personal feelings. We use a full synthetic on these and they work just fine with it. I have had several of these units come in just after having had Lucas added to them, so I would not do it. Thanks for watching.
@@brianangel6090 Transtar is the company that sells the kits, Transtec is the kit maker. In my opinion Transtec is the best. If you can get them to sell you Raybestos clutches that is the way I would go. Most of the time the kits are coming with Exedy clutches. They have been working fine. The new valve bodies from Ford is really the best way if you don,t mind spending the money, Same way with the pump. Every once in a while Ford sells both of them real cheap. Cheaper than you can buy the kits to repair them. Just depends on the dealer and how much stock they got I guess. As far as the clip I think it is installer error. They could design that area better in my opinion.
Its great video we really appreciate you share your experience and effort with us, Where is best place to buy parts? My 2015 ford escape 1.6L start acting up when is warm up start make whining noise and stop shifting, but when is cold no problem will shift in all gears I did took it apart but I need to know common parts normally you change in each transmission?
Recomiendas hacer esta reparación sin ser mecánico de profesión? Ya estoy cansado de que no me arreglen mi camioneta
If you are mechanically inclined it shouldn't be a problem.
they look a lot like a 6t40 I use to build them at the dealership.
Basically the same but only like 3% of the parts will interchange.
Is this out of a fusion
Yes it is. 2016. There are a multitude of different parts depending on the year, mostly with the chain guide and oil dams.
Thanks tom I just made it to 32:12 break time/.
Thanks for watching
My Explorer is at my local cord right now for them to diagnose this. Ford has a CSP out for this that I’m hoping my car falls under🙌🏽
67k on the dash. Such a pain seeing it fail in such a young car. Harsh shifts sometimes, jumping into gear. Falling on its face sometimes under acceleration. Overall horrible. Ford knew better then to have these weaker trans pulling stuff like explorers🤦🏽♂️
Hope they fix it for you. All the makers do the same thing. Putting transmissions in things they know cannot handle it. All about meeting those EPA standards. We get to suffer all around for it.
I’ll keep you posted on what the outcome is. They said if it does fall under then the torque converter will be replaced along with anything else that was damaged.