Hi Gary. I repaired a 2014 Escape that had extensive sheet metal damage but also damaged both plug ends on the trans. I was able to repair the outside plug, but tearing into the trans would have totaled the vehicle. RTV and a prayer was about all the insurance company would authorize. It looks like a new valve body was the only way to properly repair the vehicle. A hard lesson learned by my boss.
It's been about a month now, so far no complaint from the customer, knock on wood. The shop would have to either buy the vehicle, or pay for the trans repair. It was within $100 of being a total loss. And I am sure the customer wouldn't want to drive a salvage branded vehicle. But, if the insurer found out about the trans repair, the shop would be in trouble. Not a good situation to be in as a technician or as a shop owner. Better to declare the vehicle a total loss from the start and not wait until hidden damage rears it's ugly head.
My 2013 Fusion has this transmission and yesterday it slipped a couple of times while driving it on residential streets. It was the first time it has done it after 5 years of use and 90,000 miles traveled. It was a very hot day, so it may have been overheating. But there were no warning lights on the dashboard and it worked flawlessly on the freeway. I'm a bit disappointed, but have hopes that it's just something minor. I flushed and refilled the fluid about 4 months ago and it was working great. I'm scheduled to take it in for service on Monday, so we'll see what the issue really is, if Ford can actually find any faults. I'll keep ya'll posted. I really hope that my baby doesn't need a new transmission.
I had the local Ford dealer checked it out and the tech couldn't find any faults, codes or issues with the transmission. Both the tech and the service manager test drove it and didn't notice anything abnormal. They offered to reflash the module that controls the transmission, but they warned that just as it could make things better, it could also make them worse. So, their advise was to keep driving it until the issue returns or gets worse. Only then will they be able to really troubleshoot it. I'll keep a close eye on it and will take it to another shop to get a second opinion as soon as I feel something's off.
I am going to have an aux transmission cooler installed. At the time the issue happened, the weather was unusually hot and I had been driving around in a very hilly area. That explains why the slippage can't be reproduced under normal driving conditions. I figured it's a cheap way to possibly extend the life of the transmission without having to perform a full rebuild or major repairs.
9/2/2018 Update: I took the car to a trusted transmission repair shop near my home last month. Like the techs at Ford, the guys at the shop could not find any faults or codes with their diagnostic tools. I told the owner the issue and the work I wanted him to perform on the car. After taking a look at the trans, the owner of the shop said that the cooling system on the Fusion is adequate and installing a cooler would require a lot more customization than a standard system, which in his opinion was not worth the cost. Instead, he advised that the transmission fluid be flushed and replaced with high-grade ATF and fricition modifier. I took his advised and agreed to have the service done. After about a month of driving, I can say that the transmission feels smoother and more composed. It handles the shifts without hesitation. I know it's still early, but if it continues to function like it has over the past few weeks, I'll be very, very happy. Oh, and the owner advised me to have the transmission serviced every 25-30K miles. I couldn't agree more. I think my mistake was waiting until the odometer hit 85,000 miles to replace the ATF, though Ford's manual states that the transmission service should be done at 150,000 miles. But I've learned my lesson.
I have come to a conclusion that this 6f35 has designed flaw on the valve body which can damage the transmission,so I bought 2015 mkz with bad transmission with banging reverse and harsh shift,I did a research and found a kit called transgo shift kit for 6f35,I decided to order valve body from eBay and followed directions from transgo on how to install it,finally did with the new valve plate,believe me my car shifts like my 2018 Mazda 6 with no hiccups,I used a synthetic transmission oil..I’m so glad I can do this and remember to use ids to update the transmission or new valve body id or it will bang,stop overhauling this transmission for an expense
The strategy and idn numbers are on the harness connector on the solenoid body its hard to see on the main valve body cuz its etched in but they put it in those three spots including the I. D. tag on the too of the transmission and of ciused saved on the pcm that can be access with a VCMII to look uo bands and characterization idn numbers.
I have a 6F35 on my 16 fusion AWD no major problems yet just a harsh 2-3 shift but I have had my vehicle tuned with modified shift firmness and shift points that seemed to help quite a bit.
@@DvACtOid Not sure if you tried flushing it yet, but I just drained and filled my Ford Fusion FWD and it has 120k on it. Man that fluid looked like dirty oil, it was BLACK. and there were some deposits in the bottom of the pan when I poured it out. I'm going to do it again in a couple hundred miles because it needs to be drained and filled 2 maybe 3 times. Worth it!
@@gb342002Hey I'm in the se boat with my 2014 fusion titanium. Did a drain and fill. Fluid was really black. Just came back to level when it was hot and it drained out about a half quart of black fluid out the level hole. Did the second drain and fill help? It's shifting great now but it's got 140k and I think the previous owner never didn't this.
@@jaybourbon8608 Definitely recommend a second go. I did it just a second time and even more black fluid came out although less. I'm going to do this again in another 50 probably. My car makes a clicking sound when I let off the gas and start slowing down so I'm trying to baby it
Purchased a used 2016 Escape in March 2020 and having weird shifting issues. At a stop, when I press the gas, RPM's will go up, engine will spin and then it will catch in to first gear. Second issue is when I pull up to my driveway, I stop, put it in reverse, RPM's will go up and then a loud POP / BANG and it will go into reverse. I took it to three different transmissions shops, no codes, fluid it burnt / black and they are able to replicate the issues. All three said to either drive it until the transmission fails completely or do a complete rebuild. They told me not to change the fluid because clean fluid might make it worse. So, wow what a mess.
Hello Gary, I just drained and refilled a 2011 Escape 6F35 with fluid that smelled like burnt stuff and looked a lot like what came out this one. Afterward, I found out that there is a complaint on trans operation. You helped me with a 6T40 not long ago, this looks very similar. An area I am curious about is the solenoids. On the 6T40, the TECHM was a recommended replacement item. This does not have the TCM, but does have all the solenoids. Transtar has a replacement for $720, twice as much as the kit. If I am not seeing a control valve related issue, would you still replace them? I have seen aftermarket solenoids that could be replaced one by one for a lot better price. Also curious if beyond sensors and torque convertor are there any other items that you would recommend replacing. Thanks for taking the time to produce these videos, they are great for people getting their first exposure.
OK so I put 5 quarts in cold and it didn't come out of the fill hole. Put the cap on and then test drive for 15 minutes. Came back leveled car. Dumped put at least a half a quart or more, but the fluid was still pretty black. Should I be concerned? It's shifting great much better then before the fluid change.
Thanks for a great video Gary. Daughters transmission not going into drive, then straight to 5th gear. Found an article on the forward piston trouble in "Gears" magazine and I think it is a dead ringer for the same issue. I have watched your video a couple of times and I am going to try it. I can watch TSS drop as it tries to lock for first gear then it goes back up and "Clunk" down into 5th gear. 126k on the 2013 Escape. 2 years ago I would have never thought about going into the transmission but you have given me a little knowledge and she doesn't have the money to fix so lets do this. Have a great week.
@@GaryFerraro reverse is good. It had a p751 code and I replaced the A solenoid and it didn't help. Code has gone away but I have not driven it any distance since replacement. Put the computer on it and that's where I saw the turbine shaft speed not going to zero until the transmission fail safe to 5th gear. Solenoid A pressure goes to 506, then immediately drops back to zero and then it shifts to 5th, usually with a hard clunk.
@@cjsamples If reverse is good, very possible the forward piston is damaged, to confirm you could drop out the valvebody and air check the forward clutch to see if it leaks
@@GaryFerraro How would that test be done? If that piston doesn't leak then would you have an idea of what could be the issue then? I found the piston seal from and have it on order already as it was less than $7 from an ebay seller, still in ford packaging. I am at a loss for some of this troubleshooting but I can follow along on the tear down video. If I don't find that piston damaged I will be at a loss of what could be next. Everything I have read on this issue of no 1st gear engagement, clunk, and then transmission going to 5th gear leans toward the piston seal. Here is the article from Gears. gearsmagazine.com/magazine/6f35-5th-gear-starts-and-no-codes/ My data stream almost follows his exactly except my tss shaft speed dips and comes back up then down to zero with engagement of 5th gear.
@@cjsamples If you have about 50psi of air, pull the valvebody out, right in the middle of the case where the valvebody lives there will be 2 seals, on is for forward clutch the other is for low/reverse clutch, air check both of those and see if forward clutch is leaking
Can you please provide some guidance? My 2014 ford escape 1.6 liter front wheel drive with 180000 miles will occasionally loose power stilghly when acceleraring, I pulled the following code : P0741 and PO744. I changed the transmission fluid; I did 4 drains and refills. I also changed the valve body and updated the valve Solenoid strategy number and the solenoid body ID. I resetted the learned transmission adaptation but the issue is still there. Is the torque convertor out?
I have had the transmission rebuild. I would get hard shifts and a message saying transmission not in park. Fusion going back to the shop this week. Smh
No it only says it when I put it any gear. But with that comes a nasty hard clunky shift then the trans light appears. Drives in limp mode pretty much after that. I don’t even want to move it at all no more. No choice but to tow it.
I just had mine rebuilt for the 3 time only 100k lasted 15k and it started leaking trans fluid around inside bell housing . Tired of wasting my money so I'm doing it my self replaced seal fly wheel and converter and it's still leaking guessing its pump? Seal in that Area Any help in the right direction would be great. Note car was 100 fine just Pouring transmission fluid from seal be hind torque converter. Great video bye the way
I'm,working on one in a 15 lincoln hard reverse and 3 5 engaging no codes tryed to reset the adaptive strategies no go ... Found a ssm message from ford in the process of changing the shift solenoid 3 the are coming mis aligned and sticking ... Causing. The hard r 3 5 engagement.....yes solinoids can,be replaced separately at leat on the ford/Lincoln's
Hi Gary, my 2017 Explorer 2.3L with the 6F35 has a delayed reverse engagement, only when cold. No forward shifting problems or check-engine light. Could you advise on what I might check for? If this might be a problem with the valve body, I'm good doing that myself. But splitting the case and rebuilding the trans would be a stretch for me. I am so pissed because it only has 75k miles, and I serviced the fluid at 30k and 60k, and I treat this thing like gold. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
I've a nasty problem my 15 Fusion SE 2.5 L was hit on drivers side wheel and broke off CV axle and left end piece in transmission . What would be the best way to remove it ? It broke off clean flush against tranny and there's nothibng to grab a hold of . Is there a metal obstruction that would prevent pushing in approximately 3/8 in rod from other side banging it out ? Or get a piece and weld it to the broken piece and pull it out from drivers side ? Or bite the bullet get the seal out wasting all that fluid and replacing both fluid and seal ?
If a piece broke off, you could try to weld something to it and pull. May have to pull the trans and split it open to get the piece out and to also make sure nothing else is inside the trans
I've owned and driven a ton of vehicles with this trans and every one of them has a harsh 2-3 shift. Just rebuilt one that was having issues, found the clutch support and the 456 drum had some wear and the 35R clutches we're scorched. Filter was plugged up and the valve body showed signs of wear. Was higher milage so it got a full rebuild of clutches and steels, molded pistons, valve body, torque converter and pump. I noticed after the rebuild the 2-3 shift was perfect. We always had a trans tech so I never had to do them up until about a year ago and we don't see a bunch of trans issues at the dealer that require a full tear down. My question is, what component causes the harsh 2-3 shift on these tranny's? I've also driven some that have a torque converter clutch that slips and locks repeatedly under a load like when pulling a hill that nobody seems to complain about. If I command it locked it stays locked but under PCM control they lock and slip almost as though it's being controlled to do so. Appreciate any answers or advice. Love watching your tear down videos. You make it look so easy but you've been in so many of them. I am zip tying clutch packs together so I don't mix up parts as I'm removing them cause I don't do enough to recognize them by just looking at them. Haha
I have a 2016 Ford Escape 1.6 4wd it will shift fine for about 20 minutes then will start whining and slipping and eventually stop moving. I can shut it off and it’ll be okay for a few more minuets. Any ideas on what it could be?
Hello, My name is Fernando Brum. I'm from Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil. I have a ford fusion 2010 3.0 v6 awd and in this last week it is delaying to make the change from 2 to 3 march, but after turning on the fault light normalizes the gear change, it is presenting fault in the solenoid b, Mr. Ferraro could help me with this problem.
Very informative. Here is an obvious question-does this trans take a filter? It doesn't look like there is one. You can find a listing for them however.
I am I correct in assuming that the black plastic cap in the upper right hand corner of frame 44.12 that Mr. Ferraro is holding with his right hand is where you would add new the trans fluid after you first drained it from the plug at the base of the trane?
Hi Gary ,I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT 3.0 V6 6f35 gearbox.Had the gearbox repaired as was not shifting from 2nd to 3rd etc ,working ok now .Before the repair it seemed hot and when took out the dipstick the oil exploded up so had to put it back in quick .Since the repair doing the same thing which does not seem right,the gearbox company said it was ok ,dont believe them. I checked the oil while cold,as i pulled the dipstick out sounded like air escaped ,oil seemed to be in the middle of the range ,but how can i check when hot if keeps splurting out and losing oil .Any advice apreciated.
Since the filter isn't serviceable (stupid) a full transmission fluid flush then every so often I did the flush on my 3.7l V6 MKZ at 32k miles only because the PTU CRACKED AT 29K which was in for service pump out the old replace with new imgotma new upgraded free and at the time imhad them service my RDU. Some Certified Used Lincoln MKZ AWD 3.7L V6 I'm adding the PTU drain and fill to my annual service I'd rather pay a few bucks than waiting weeks for a new part
Doing engine r&r on '13 Escape 98k and found the stator support splines almost gone. All knife edged. Is that common on this trans? I'd never seen that before.
2015 Escape 1.6 AWD 160kmi. Got the common loud whining noise. Used to be only a few seconds after start up, now always whines. Sounds just like a bearing to me, but I don't know much about this 6F35. Code is P0219 over speed. Starts slipping going into 3rd, then it goes bonkers, over revs and goes into fail safe. Also, NO REVERSE unless I shut it off, wait a few seconds and restart. Drained some sample fluid, saw no metal. CLOGGED FILTER? TORQUE CONVERTOR? Or same issue(s) you just pointed out? Never fixed a trans before, but used ones for the AWD are about $2k, so I gotta try this.
@@GaryFerraro Yes. 2015 Escape AWD 160kmi. Starts slipping going into 3rd, then it goes bonkers, over revs and goes into fail safe. Also, NO REVERSE unless I shut it off, wait a few seconds and restart.
Looks like I may have torn down the transmission for nothing. LOL. After I tore it down I remembered that when I heard the whine/light grinding noise was with the car running in Park, so it could only mean a few things. TORQUE CONVERTER! DAM!! Rookie mistake!! If you shake the convertor , you can hear the exact noise it was making while running. I think the convertor actually has clutches inside it? I got lazy and just trusted the convertor was good because no converter codes. Anyways, the trans looks good besides the 3-5-R steels are pretty bad. I was fully expecting to see a dam broken snap spring and wave steel on the 3-5-R because it was slipping bad going into 3rd. But it was also not going into Drive or Reverse after it was warm. Right now, I have the valve body apart and don't see any issues. I looked at "refurbished" valve bodies on Ebay, but I know dam well they can't just re-machine valve body like that. They would have re-size all the pistons to make it work! Their obviously sell old cleaned-up ones! You were right about the filter...My filteris is logged pretty bad with light metallics. I'm in the process of trying to find clearance specs on the oil pump to make sure the pump is still good. The pump has some light scoring in the side channel because of some burs on the outer ring gear. I'm thinking he convertor may have kicked the bucket because of low oil pressure from the pump or clogged filter. But, I never saw any codes for any low pressure or solenoid issues. Maybe the trans oil cooler is just too small or maybe because it is mounted on top of the trans instead of in the front grill area it lets convertor and trans get too warm. This thing does have 160kmi on it though. My local trans supplier said they would have to order the 3-5-R steels. So, I'm just gonna use my green or yellow 3M Rolloc disc to scuff them out and give them back a little grip. I will replace the wave steel though, they have that in stock. This is a budget build and just needs to last a couple thousand miles. Thank for your videos and responses. This was was my first transmission rebuild and I've haven't felt this satisfied trying to fix something in a very long time! Hopefully this bad boy works when I put it back in!!
@@Rob-pg7rb Do you have an external separate cooler that bolts to the trans? if you do change it, converter probably did go bad causing the screen to clog
@@GaryFerraro no problem yet. ford 2014 escape 6f35 transmission. 1st time . we have little money car is in mint but drive tons of highway miles. so doing it myself.
Holy cow that fluid is DARK. I have to wonder if the fluid was a major contributor to the problems in that transmission. Was it ever changed prior to service? It's considered good practice to do a drain and fill on these 6F35 transmissions at approximately every 30k miles. I do this, and the fluid comes out darkened/purple, but never this dark. That fluid looks positively BLACK, like crude oil. Just hazarding a guess, but that fluid looks like it was in there for a good 90,000 miles or so, if not longer. Either that, or it was horribly abused and/or overheated.
I have a 2013 Ford Escape SEL 1.6L FWD with 175k miles and the transmission is giving me trouble. I had noticed the shifting was slightly rough for a little while before this problem came up, and this started while driving in hills when it tried to downshift, causing the "service transmission immediately" light to come on. It has a whining/whirring noise both in idle and when accelerating, it shifts roughly with occasional delay, and when it tries to downshift from 6th when going uphill it searches for the gear and doesn't seem to find it, or perhaps drops to 3rd or 4th instead of 5th. It also shifts rough. The Ford dealer pulled the codes p0729 and p07AA from it. According to the codes the 6th gear ratio is incorrect and there is an internal element friction problem. I had the trans flushed and the problem persists. The vehicle is still driveable if I take it easy, although I obviously have it parked now to avoid any further damage. Do you have any suggestions on what the specific problem actually is? My best guess would be either the clutches or solenoid associated with 6th gear, and possibly the pump. I should have time to work on it myself, but I guess my main concern is being able to figure out whether the problem is electrical (replace solenoids) or mechanical. What can I do to further troubleshoot/narrow down the problem? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!
a question, what do you think about a remote filter for the trans.. spin on type? just cut one of the lines add some fitting and add on a remote filter mount and filter...
Hello, I paid for a repair in my Ford Escape 2014 AWD 1.6L, it was an overhoul and changed the bodyvalve. The car still has a problem bc a delays when it's cold in Drive and reverse. Im sure that didnt chage the Solenoid Body ID Code. I want to know if I can see it without take out the bodyvalve's cover.
There should be an I'd tag on the top of the transmission remove the intake air box and youll see where the bell housing connects and it can be confirmed with the valve body and scanner tool checking idn and strategy
Hello dear I am Mahmoud from Egypt. I own a 2015 Ford Escape Engine power2.5 When driving in the car in the first gear, the car delays the second and third transmission, and a slight delay appears, and the rest of the shifts are good. I hope the picture is clear
I changed the speed sensor because the transmission would lock up sometimes and put everything back together and now it won’t move in drive or reverse any ideas?
I am a industrial pump and gearbox rebuilder. My company classifies my job as a milwright. Anyhow, for such a small package there are a ton of parts to such a small trans. I honestly do not think I could tackle this job and get it all back together and actually work. Lol. How can you keep all those parts together and back together in sequence and know they are in proper order?
Larry Walden There is a manual you can follow. A company called ATSG puts out pretty good repair manuals to follow along with. I have been rebuilding since mid 80,s
2013 Escape with 80k miles, driver side inner CV is wobbly even when fully inserted in case. the CV joint is fine, no play, in fact it's a new Motorcraft replacement. has a pretty bad driveline vibration around 45-50mph, goes away when off throttle. the support bushing is not worn, could the play be from the diff bearing or case?
I have a 6F35 I bought to replace a hosed one. The new one arrived with a cracked case. I'm going to swap the internals from the good one to the "bad" one. Is there anything I should watch out for? I have watched through this video once and it seems fairly straight forward. But please let me know if there is anything I should know when doing this. And thank you for posting this video!
Becareful when installing the bellhousing onto the main case, there is a seal for the converter that seal for converter oil. It's a small metal clad seal that seal around the input shaft
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the advice! All went relatively smoothly today, my friend and I swapped out all of the internals to the good case. Check this out, so we opened up the bad one and the same exact piece you broke off in this video was already broken off inside of the transmission. Before disassembly, the original trans was making a horrible grinding noise while idling, struggling to go into any gear etc. At times it would drive just fine. Eventually, we pulled the trans and today that is what we found. No idea if perhaps we could have just taken that broken bit out and gotten it back to normal. We went ahead and swapped everything over. There was a ton of metal in the bad trans anyways and the filter was very gummed up, especially the magnet. So I think it is safe to say that area of the transmission's casting is incredibly weak. Any ideas as to how this could have broken without any prying? Keep in mind we simply popped the bellhousing off and low and behold that piece was floating around in there. Cheers, I hope this thing runs fine now...
hi Gary, i have a ford fusion 2013, a got the code P0741 - Torque Conveter clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off. Any suggestions on what i should do ? only happens when i am at 65 miles an hour. i am afraid i will have to replace the trans.
Po741 means the converter can no longer fully l;ock up, this could be the converter itself, the seal on the stator inside the trans, could also be a valvebody or solenoid issue
Hello Gary, thanks for taking he time to make this video. I have a 2015 Fusion I bought new and have always had a hard 2-3 shift. It's been to the dealership multiple times and they always said it was normal. They did reset the computer. Do you think this would be a valve body/ solenoid issue or an internal failure? Thanks for any help!
@@GaryFerraro yes. All other gears shift smoothly. 2-3 shift has always been a slightly delayed harder shift. I'll try the recalibration and if that doesn't help I'll look into a new valve body. Thanks Gary, I'll keep you updated!!
Hi Gary, great video. Have a 2016 escape transmission failure suddenly with only a whine for about a mile prior. Pulled it checked the pump and cut filter open both looked fine. Had a transmission guy tear it apart and inspect it. Said he couldn't find anything and suspected torque converter. Replaced the torque converter and put it back in. Doesn't move forward or reverse. Can feel a bump into gear but that's it. Put a pressure gauge on it. 120 psi park and neutral at idle. 300 psi in reverse 180 psi forward gears. No codes before or after. Happy to pay for advice hear in NE Pa!
I have a Ford Transit Connect failure. Internal, dealership on almost $5,000 to repair it. Personally I think it's gross when you're high for 2013. I have a question can I buy a complete rebuild kit. Do it myself. And what were the parts called. Appreciate if you had a general answer to that.
@@johncoyle5936 My thoughg was because people are often traveling down roads and through conditions that they aren't used to during the christmas season, that they may get stuck in the snow, and many people try to rock themselves out once they're stuck, 2hich can harm transmissons.
I been told Ford Escape 2015, transmission, ptu and rear drive if ever replaced it will need reprogramming. Can the reprogramming be done by a transmission shop or is it ford dealer only thing.
The solenoid body I.D and solenoid strategy may have to be programmed in. The has to be done through the Ford website, anyone with a pass through connector and a Laptop can do it
Hi Gary .I have a 2014 escape with 140000 .0 mile with same trans have not done a code check yet engine stalls when put in drive or reverse. I never knew about the 30k oil change .what do you think is the issue.. thanks
im going crazy with my 2010 fusion.. the transmission was rebuilt completely, and everything works fine until it warms up.. then the 1 to 2 gear at wot slips but only when is warmed up.. any advise??
Is it normal for these to feel like something is dragging until you hit the gas? Reverse a little more than fwd. 2016 Escape AWD. Can issues be seen by a tech without codes? Or how do you check the health of a transmission? About to hit 60k
Check the PTU, (Power Transfer Unit) that bolts to the trans for AWD, they always go bad, they hold 1/2 quart of grease and when it leaks out they are toast. Do you have the exact same tires on the car?
Thanks for this video. Very illustrative. I have 2013 escape, it shirt normal and I go like seventy miles per hour. Sometimes, at pickup I can hear some pressure noise in the transmission. Can someone explain the situation?
@@GaryFerraro no codes and it drives smooth. I noticed, the lower control arm on driver/ passenger front gone. Some vibration, greeeeee, pupppupp sound. Up hill I can hear like suction line sound, but shift normal. When hot it fine. I drove like thirty miles it okay. Only sounds like low fluid suction
I'm having a hard time finding the 2.3 2005 Mazda Tribute transmission rebuild video. Another question is, would it be possible to get those last gear assemblies that were messed up on yours and drop in some from a 2.3 Mazda 3 or Mazda 6 transmission to make a Frankenstein?
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the advice and posting this Video, man I would have to name and number everything on paperboard with a pencil I would need a lot more experience to do it the way You did.
My 2016 ford fusion's 6f35 trans started slipping, high revving, erratic rpm and up to 30s delays before kicking into gear and accelerating like a bat out of hell. couple times i heard a hard clunk leaving a gas station on a slight incline. at first it was only throwing engine overspend p0219, and then eventually incorrect gear ratio 1 and 2 p0731, 732. i was forced to keep driving it carefully and it eventually threw a Solenoid A stuck off code p0751, friction element code p02700, and next day lost forward gear and it only drives in reverse. i got the trans down, valve body connector had fluid in it, tested all the solenoids resistance, the frame, and they were all within spec. nothing physical looks bad in the valve body. i haven't opened the main housing yet. its sealed with gray RTV and will be a pain to split open. what should i look for when rebuilding it? Possible forward clutch got lost in the 4th dimension? there was no significant metal debris in the fluid. just looked like normal wear and wasn't terribly dark fluid either, just light brown on a napkin. possible burnt smell. it had an odor but even a former jiffy lube manager said it seemed fine or wasn't too bad. thanks for your help and advice, Master Gary Ferraro
Before you take it apart, if you have an air compressor, air check the forward clutch, one of the 2 ports in the middle where the valvebody is. I think that the bonding came off the forward piston or forward piston tore and you lost forward
@@GaryFerraro Forward piston is blowing air and L/R works. Everything else in it looks fine. i did have 2 chunks of the housing where that retaining ring is break off as well. one piece was loose an the other was cracked and i could easily pull it off by hand. might be why i heard clunks leaving a gas station.
I'm rebuilding a 6F35 now. I have an issue with the 1-2-3-4 cutch measurement. It's supposed to be .002-.072 Mine is .078 and I've replaced the friction plates and steels. Also, when I took the trani apart, the original steels looked burned/heated. Any thoughts? Thanks Dave
Hello, I have a 2014 ford escape front wheel drive with 1.6 liter turbo engine. When I shift the automatic transmission gear from park to neutral it goes smoothly. However, as soon as I shift to drive I get a violent vibration. The car drive fine and the transmission shift smoothly. I replace all three mounts ( Motor mount, Upper and lower transmission mounts) I changed the transmission fluid. The car idle smoothly at 800 rpm. I would appreciate any input.
Hi Gary, since you've worked on 6F35 and 6T40 as well, are there any major difference between these two transmissions or they are pretty much the same thing?
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for your response. Noted. Since ford claims that the Mercon LV is a specific type of oil with special friction modifiers (may be just a marketing strategy) . Do you think we could still use GM ATF VI in the 6F35?
hello sir...how is the reliability of ford 6f15 gearbox ??..does it have issues like ford powershift...i live in india.... here ford recently launched this 6f15 replacing the powershift gearbox....would like to know from an expert like you.....thanks a lot ...its a great video...its rare to find masters like you....great indeed
Hi Gary I own a 2010 Ford Escape with a delay on reverse (a 2 seconds delay), The day I bought it it was leaking transmission fluid from the axle seal, I repaired that and later I found a bottle of some cheap tranmission fluid on the back cargo area, an incompatible fluid, i think the previus owner was filling the tranmission with that. Could be the incorrect type of transmission fluid the cause of delay on reverse or be something else? Thank you.
Hey Gary Good video. I`ve got a 2014 fusion with same trans. I`m getting p0731,732,and 733 codes. car will pull for a few minutes then stop pulling. Is this something that is an easy fix, or am i going to need a rebuild or replacement?
Hi Gary. Thanks for the great video. I've just pulled a 6F35 from a 2013 Escape & am about to tear it down. Do you happen to have any videos or references that you like for doing a rebuild on this particular Trans. BTW, it's a 1.6L FWD.
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary. Thanks for the reply. Here is a 'brief' summary of my issue: 1) Trans was experiencing slight, but constant hesitations particularly in the higher gears. 2) Eventually, I got a 'Trans Fault' warning. When this ccurred, the 'S' option for shifting was disabled & also the trans would only stay in the current high gear. After these incidents occurred, I would pull over & turn off the vehicle. Even a short break would help & then the car would drive normally. * Note: I have a bluetooth scan tool, & the codes that resulted were consistently 'P0218' & P1783 - Overtemp codes. I would sometimes get a P0731 (Solenoid) & a P0420 (Cat. Converter). However, these codes don't re-appear with the same frequency as the Overtemp Codes. 3) After a few weeks of this, I experienced the 'final Trans Fault' (LOL). This occurred at highway speed, after which the car would not stay at speed & had to be pulled over. The vehicle did not want to run after that, as it indicated that it was overall, too hot. Cooling down did help, but the trans now was making a loud 'whining noise'. It would go into gear & move around for very short distances, but it wouldn't move & indeed shifting into a 'D' or 'S' forward gear would do nothing except move slightly into reverse. * Note: I was suspecting that there was some obstruction of the transmission cooling 'circuit'. Indeed, the P0218/1783 codes seem to indicate this as a cause. 4) I had the car towed home & decided to drain the fluid, pull the (tiny) cooler & see if there were any signs of obstructions/debris. Nothing in this was found, but the fluid (about 12000 miles old) was quite dark. It did smell & looked old before its time, but did not seem burnt. 5) I have since (in my infinite wisdom), pulled the Trans & have just gotten the case apart: My suspicion regarding obstructions seems to have been confirmed -I have found lots of red-brown plastic debris in the 'vertical pan' & into the area where the chain & differential reside. I found no metallic debris other than (what seems to be) the normal maetallic stuff on the filter's magnet. BTW, regarding the filter: The oblong hole which sucks the fluid into the filter was clogged by this plastic. Heck, it was melted onto the opening so much that very little fluid could actually pass. This seems to be a smoking bullet for the cause. It is so 'amazing' that I would like to send you a photo. My concern is that the Over-temp conditions caused sever damage to other components, esp the pump & Torque Converter. What would your experience suggest?
@@archlab007 Probably the overtemp code was from a slipping converter, it also sounds like the whining noise is a clogged filter, chances are the converter came apart and clogged the screen, when the converter slips it generates a lot of heat, i would do an overhaul, change converter, in the overhaul kit are seals for the torque converter(i have a video on 6T40 common problems, almost the same trans, so you may want to watch that) Clean the trans cooler lines out good too. The P0731 code is gear error in first.
@@GaryFerraro I believe that we are of the same mind. With regard to the Torque Converter, it looks like it's gone because the outer spline just moves around inside the case. And with 116k miles (& the effort to get to it), that's something that I'd rather just replace. Regarding the 'red-brown' plastic: Do you think that came from the Torque COnverter? Or is there another part that just 'came to Jesus' too soon? It's more of a curiosity thing about this plastic. I know that my 'brief' synopsis was anything but brief - thanks for going through it. I just have 4 questions at this point: 1) Where would you recommend getting a Torque Converter from? I found one on Rock Auto for $128...if it's good, that seems like a steal. 2) Since I drive a lot, I'd like to do some upgrades: I'm considering an auxillary Trans Cooler. I like one of Hayden's plate & fin coolers to mount towards the front of the Escape. Any thoughts? 3) What are your opinions on a Transgo Shift Kit? Do these have any real benefits? Any other upgrades for a heavy use vehicle (mostly city driving....but a lot per day).? 4) Do you think that a sticking brake caliper may have contributed to this kind of failure? Again...I appreciate that your time is valuable, so a BIG Thank you . BTW, I am gonna check out your 6T40 video next. And if you have a 'Go Fun me' page, etc...please let me know what it is.
@@archlab007 I believe the torque converter is coming apart, that is what is clogging the screen. The red-brown plastic, when you split the cases in half and exposed the chain, there are plastic "chain scopes" and lube dams, how did they look. My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com if you would like to send pictures. I never used a Transgo shift kit on this unit. they always worked good after overhaul. evaluate how the trans is, if bad internally you may want to consider a solenoid body. I also never liked to add a cooler, i believe that will cause issues down the road, i just go with how it comes from the factory and never had an issue. I dont think a sticky caliper caused this issue, the converters have this common issue, the lining comes off. I do general repairs in my shop too, and see caliper problems all the time. This trans is the 6F35, the last 2 i did had converter issues and just checked out another one, same problem. I dont have a Go fund me page, but a paypal account for donations, i do not charge anything for any info or help that i supply.
hi gary thnk for you video, I have fusion 2007 the transmission is ok , but sometimes it does a hard beat when driving uphill street, any idea ? need to buy or change master kit, banner kit , pump? o any idea? thk
I have a 2016 Escape 2.0L AWD. It has a front pump whine when its cold and will shift hard for about the first 5 miles. Have you seen this before? Thanks.
No Codes or light. I just changed the trans fluid tonight. It was black. Seems to be shifting better. Will see in the morning when its had a good cold soak.
Gary, when I got my kit I seen I got 2 different separator plates for the main control. They are only slightly different. My question is do you know if I should go with the same plate that is on the main control or is there an updated plate I should be going with? Also, is it a case where the kit contained 2 different separator plates because there are 6F35's out there that are slightly different based on make, model, etc, etc...?
Go with the same plate that is on there, they may have made some changes to the trans(they call them generation 1 and generation 2) the kit you have may work on what generation you have
I'm replacing the solenoid body as well and when I opened the box I found a separator plate already installed on the solenoid body so I just went with that one. I should have it ready for a test drive Monday.
My 2013 Ford Escape 2.0 is tuned, my transmission slips sometimes when I drive with the 87 octane tune, I would like to upgrade the parts from the transmission to make it handle 400-450 horsepower and prevent it from slipping. Would you suggest a performance torque converter? anything Else? Liked the video.
@@Tookoff The company is called Alto, They make the Red clutches, not sure about this trans, have to research, Pro Torque is good for performance converters
Thanks for the teardown video. I have the 13 escape 1.6 eco awd and my left front cv axle moves up n down INSIDE the tranny which has me awful worried have you ever seen that ? Do you know the cause ?
It's a common problem with this transmission. The bushing wears out and eventually causes a leak at the case. They have an updated wider teflon bushing that has a notch for the feed hole in the case. It can be replaced in the car, but you'll need the correct tool to draw the bushing out. If the shop does not have the tool then I wouldn't let them try because you can damage the case. The tool is pretty slick! Just make sure you key the new bushing in so you don't block the feed hole.
@@anthonysainz7596 thanks. I would just throw it up on my 2 post. I actually found the problem when I replaced the left front cv axle. Going over a ruff gravel road it literally sounds like ball joint slap lol I replaced my rear differential about a month before and I'd of sworn it was a bad rear wheel bearing till it got louder and worse. Tricky little bitches 😂 thanks ford !
@@GaryFerraroI cannot seem to find a way to get this compressed and can’t afford the special tool right now. How bad would it be if I did not include the snap ring retainer ring?
What makes reverse stop working in 6f35 transmissions? I put mine in reverse and I can feel the shift like it wants to go but when you give it some gas it goes nowhere.
@@GaryFerraro well i bought this suv to learn on, im going to do some diagnosing first. if i do learn to rebuild this trans do you have any advice for choosing the correct rebuild kit? 6f35 is in everything 2 4 and awd. 09 escape 4wd incase that matters.
Looks like a victim of the "Lifetime" Mercon LV. Most Ford techs recommend doing a flush at 30K or 4 drain and refills, and then doing at least one drain and refill, approximately 5 quarts, every 30k afterwards. 150K is too much for this fluid. Its black by 20k.
Hi Gary, I hv a 2013 Ford Explore XLT with this transmission but its front wheel drive. The dealer is saying the seal was leaking and now I burned it out. Ford dealership give me a part# for 6F55 im so confused. If it has. 6F35 now why can't I just rebuild that. He claims I burned it out. Having a hard time trusting him considering I drove it there and it had fluid. He said when he jacked it up all the fluid came out. Does this make any sense to you?
Thanks for the reply. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 1st 6F35 right now. It had a harsh shift into reverse and intermittent harsh 3rd and 5th. I've torn it down and found the direct clutch pack toasted. I'm hoping to get it put back together tomorrow actually. Any other tips, common things, etc, etc... you can think of that will help in the rebuild, anything that could be easily missed? I'm hoping to only have to pull it once. TIA
Chad Cole Hey bud, so how did it go with the installation? Did you manage to fix all of the issues it was having? My '13 Fusion's transmission started slipping yesterday after 5 years of ownership and 90,000 miles traveled. I am taking it to my local Ford dealer to get it checked out. I hope it's something minor.
The Transmission would have to be removed. I recommend cleaning down the area and make sure the leak is coming from there, not a common problem, If you do pull the transmission out address all seal, could be something at the AWD section
Please email me if you can I'd like to send some pictures of it to you and see what you say because its leaking from bell housing and is only when vehicle is running this is after I have replaced the rear main seal on the motor and reassembled it with the transmission alan.redden.2@gmail.com please if your able to help I'd greatly appreciate it
Respect! a lot of knoledge there Mr. Ferraro. Thanks for sharing your video
Ive made a lot of house payments thanks to this transmission, thank you FoMoCo!
@edgar Trask the MTX75 transmission totally puts this thing to shame.
As a former GM technician, I can say GM (giant mess) is probably the worst manufacturer and they’re not even American anymore. The 4L60 sucks
Did you have a fusion?
Ah tearing these down is a breeze, interesting to know more about the parts. Great vid
Hi Gary. I repaired a 2014 Escape that had extensive sheet metal damage but also damaged both plug ends on the trans. I was able to repair the outside plug, but tearing into the trans would have totaled the vehicle. RTV and a prayer was about all the insurance company would authorize. It looks like a new valve body was the only way to properly repair the vehicle. A hard lesson learned by my boss.
How did it work out
It's been about a month now, so far no complaint from the customer, knock on wood. The shop would have to either buy the vehicle, or pay for the trans repair. It was within $100 of being a total loss. And I am sure the customer wouldn't want to drive a salvage branded vehicle. But, if the insurer found out about the trans repair, the shop would be in trouble. Not a good situation to be in as a technician or as a shop owner. Better to declare the vehicle a total loss from the start and not wait until hidden damage rears it's ugly head.
Agreed
Gary... thank you so much
.. those 3 lil ball-bearings ... thank you... you help me a lot...
Thank you, I just got my first one and couldn't get a book yet. Your video was very helpful.
Thank you, There is a company in Miami called ATSG, they should have a manual for this trans
@@GaryFerraro I feel like learning about automatic transmission.It's very complex.Do you agree? How did you learn about automatic transmission?
@@mikepittsburg6939 My family has been in the business since the 60's
My 2013 Fusion has this transmission and yesterday it slipped a couple of times while driving it on residential streets. It was the first time it has done it after 5 years of use and 90,000 miles traveled. It was a very hot day, so it may have been overheating. But there were no warning lights on the dashboard and it worked flawlessly on the freeway. I'm a bit disappointed, but have hopes that it's just something minor. I flushed and refilled the fluid about 4 months ago and it was working great. I'm scheduled to take it in for service on Monday, so we'll see what the issue really is, if Ford can actually find any faults. I'll keep ya'll posted. I really hope that my baby doesn't need a new transmission.
Let me know what they say, find out if any codes are present.
I had the local Ford dealer checked it out and the tech couldn't find any faults, codes or issues with the transmission. Both the tech and the service manager test drove it and didn't notice anything abnormal. They offered to reflash the module that controls the transmission, but they warned that just as it could make things better, it could also make them worse. So, their advise was to keep driving it until the issue returns or gets worse. Only then will they be able to really troubleshoot it. I'll keep a close eye on it and will take it to another shop to get a second opinion as soon as I feel something's off.
Without any codes, it's hard to get direction, as they said, keep driving and see what happens
I am going to have an aux transmission cooler installed. At the time the issue happened, the weather was unusually hot and I had been driving around in a very hilly area. That explains why the slippage can't be reproduced under normal driving conditions. I figured it's a cheap way to possibly extend the life of the transmission without having to perform a full rebuild or major repairs.
9/2/2018 Update: I took the car to a trusted transmission repair shop near my home last month. Like the techs at Ford, the guys at the shop could not find any faults or codes with their diagnostic tools. I told the owner the issue and the work I wanted him to perform on the car. After taking a look at the trans, the owner of the shop said that the cooling system on the Fusion is adequate and installing a cooler would require a lot more customization than a standard system, which in his opinion was not worth the cost. Instead, he advised that the transmission fluid be flushed and replaced with high-grade ATF and fricition modifier. I took his advised and agreed to have the service done.
After about a month of driving, I can say that the transmission feels smoother and more composed. It handles the shifts without hesitation. I know it's still early, but if it continues to function like it has over the past few weeks, I'll be very, very happy. Oh, and the owner advised me to have the transmission serviced every 25-30K miles. I couldn't agree more. I think my mistake was waiting until the odometer hit 85,000 miles to replace the ATF, though Ford's manual states that the transmission service should be done at 150,000 miles. But I've learned my lesson.
I have come to a conclusion that this 6f35 has designed flaw on the valve body which can damage the transmission,so I bought 2015 mkz with bad transmission with banging reverse and harsh shift,I did a research and found a kit called transgo shift kit for 6f35,I decided to order valve body from eBay and followed directions from transgo on how to install it,finally did with the new valve plate,believe me my car shifts like my 2018 Mazda 6 with no hiccups,I used a synthetic transmission oil..I’m so glad I can do this and remember to use ids to update the transmission or new valve body id or it will bang,stop overhauling this transmission for an expense
I’d like to know how hard is to install this shift kit
Mine made groaning noises when you throttle off at low speeds
Been watching you on many different tranny tear downs. Top notch, you are the best for sharing your knowledge. Thank you.
I use a pair of scissors to get the direct clutch snap ring released and also to install it.
Thanks for sharing
The strategy and idn numbers are on the harness connector on the solenoid body its hard to see on the main valve body cuz its etched in but they put it in those three spots including the I. D. tag on the too of the transmission and of ciused saved on the pcm that can be access with a VCMII to look uo bands and characterization idn numbers.
I have a 6F35 on my 16 fusion AWD no major problems yet just a harsh 2-3 shift but I have had my vehicle tuned with modified shift firmness and shift points that seemed to help quite a bit.
I 3DFx I how that tune works ? Same happens on my 14 awd
Same here 2015 ford escape awd with harder shifts in low gears, does flush solved it ?
@@DvACtOid Not sure if you tried flushing it yet, but I just drained and filled my Ford Fusion FWD and it has 120k on it. Man that fluid looked like dirty oil, it was BLACK. and there were some deposits in the bottom of the pan when I poured it out. I'm going to do it again in a couple hundred miles because it needs to be drained and filled 2 maybe 3 times. Worth it!
@@gb342002Hey I'm in the se boat with my 2014 fusion titanium. Did a drain and fill. Fluid was really black. Just came back to level when it was hot and it drained out about a half quart of black fluid out the level hole. Did the second drain and fill help? It's shifting great now but it's got 140k and I think the previous owner never didn't this.
@@jaybourbon8608 Definitely recommend a second go. I did it just a second time and even more black fluid came out although less. I'm going to do this again in another 50 probably. My car makes a clicking sound when I let off the gas and start slowing down so I'm trying to baby it
Be nice to know how many miles the unit has on it. caught it at the end ...
What's your thoughts on these transmissions as far as towing a small trailer? Let's say a 4x8 with about 1k lbs total weight with trailer included?
There's a couple videos out there showing ford transits 6f35 weighed down and smoking the planetary gears.
thanks
This is the first video that described my transmission problem, except I got a Ford Escape 2012
Purchased a used 2016 Escape in March 2020 and having weird shifting issues. At a stop, when I press the gas, RPM's will go up, engine will spin and then it will catch in to first gear. Second issue is when I pull up to my driveway, I stop, put it in reverse, RPM's will go up and then a loud POP / BANG and it will go into reverse. I took it to three different transmissions shops, no codes, fluid it burnt / black and they are able to replicate the issues. All three said to either drive it until the transmission fails completely or do a complete rebuild. They told me not to change the fluid because clean fluid might make it worse. So, wow what a mess.
@Jonathan A thanks for taking the time to respond. Will do and see what happens. Thank you!
i run valvoline lv fuild change it every(4 quarts ) every 4 oil changes . about 24000 miles... so far it works perfectly
That's good, keep the fluid clean, filter will stay clean
Hello Gary,
I just drained and refilled a 2011 Escape 6F35 with fluid that smelled like burnt stuff and looked a lot like what came out this one. Afterward, I found out that there is a complaint on trans operation.
You helped me with a 6T40 not long ago, this looks very similar. An area I am curious about is the solenoids. On the 6T40, the TECHM was a recommended replacement item. This does not have the TCM, but does have all the solenoids. Transtar has a replacement for $720, twice as much as the kit. If I am not seeing a control valve related issue, would you still replace them? I have seen aftermarket solenoids that could be replaced one by one for a lot better price. Also curious if beyond sensors and torque convertor are there any other items that you would recommend replacing.
Thanks for taking the time to produce these videos, they are great for people getting their first exposure.
What is the car doing? any codes?
@@GaryFerraro No codes, slow take off was noted.
OK so I put 5 quarts in cold and it didn't come out of the fill hole. Put the cap on and then test drive for 15 minutes. Came back leveled car. Dumped put at least a half a quart or more, but the fluid was still pretty black. Should I be concerned? It's shifting great much better then before the fluid change.
you can never get all the fluid out, if you like drive for a few days and do another drain and fill
Thanks for a great video Gary. Daughters transmission not going into drive, then straight to 5th gear. Found an article on the forward piston trouble in "Gears" magazine and I think it is a dead ringer for the same issue. I have watched your video a couple of times and I am going to try it. I can watch TSS drop as it tries to lock for first gear then it goes back up and "Clunk" down into 5th gear. 126k on the 2013 Escape. 2 years ago I would have never thought about going into the transmission but you have given me a little knowledge and she doesn't have the money to fix so lets do this.
Have a great week.
reverse is good? have you scanned for codes?
@@GaryFerraro reverse is good. It had a p751 code and I replaced the A solenoid and it didn't help. Code has gone away but I have not driven it any distance since replacement.
Put the computer on it and that's where I saw the turbine shaft speed not going to zero until the transmission fail safe to 5th gear.
Solenoid A pressure goes to 506, then immediately drops back to zero and then it shifts to 5th, usually with a hard clunk.
@@cjsamples If reverse is good, very possible the forward piston is damaged, to confirm you could drop out the valvebody and air check the forward clutch to see if it leaks
@@GaryFerraro How would that test be done? If that piston doesn't leak then would you have an idea of what could be the issue then? I found the piston seal from and have it on order already as it was less than $7 from an ebay seller, still in ford packaging.
I am at a loss for some of this troubleshooting but I can follow along on the tear down video. If I don't find that piston damaged I will be at a loss of what could be next.
Everything I have read on this issue of no 1st gear engagement, clunk, and then transmission going to 5th gear leans toward the piston seal. Here is the article from Gears.
gearsmagazine.com/magazine/6f35-5th-gear-starts-and-no-codes/
My data stream almost follows his exactly except my tss shaft speed dips and comes back up then down to zero with engagement of 5th gear.
@@cjsamples If you have about 50psi of air, pull the valvebody out, right in the middle of the case where the valvebody lives there will be 2 seals, on is for forward clutch the other is for low/reverse clutch, air check both of those and see if forward clutch is leaking
Can you please provide some guidance?
My 2014 ford escape 1.6 liter front wheel drive with 180000 miles will occasionally loose power stilghly when acceleraring, I pulled the following code : P0741 and PO744. I changed the transmission fluid; I did 4 drains and refills. I also changed the valve body and updated the valve Solenoid strategy number and the solenoid body ID. I resetted the learned transmission adaptation but the issue is still there. Is the torque convertor out?
How much does a 6F35 weigh?
I have had the transmission rebuild. I would get hard shifts and a message saying transmission not in park. Fusion going back to the shop this week. Smh
So it's in park park but it saying it is not in park?
No it only says it when I put it any gear. But with that comes a nasty hard clunky shift then the trans light appears. Drives in limp mode pretty much after that. I don’t even want to move it at all no more. No choice but to tow it.
@@RL_Repairs310 let me know what they find, they will probably scan it for codes first
Your video was helpful to me today.
Question? Is the metal gasket that from the valve body side pan meant to be reused. To be clear, the pan gasket not the plate with 30 holes in it ?
I just had mine rebuilt for the 3 time only 100k lasted 15k and it started leaking trans fluid around inside bell housing . Tired of wasting my money so I'm doing it my self replaced seal fly wheel and converter and it's still leaking guessing its pump? Seal in that Area Any help in the right direction would be great. Note car was 100 fine just Pouring transmission fluid from seal be hind torque converter. Great video bye the way
Clean everything down good to see where the leak is coming from, not common to leak from front seal area.
I'm,working on one in a 15 lincoln hard reverse and 3 5 engaging no codes tryed to reset the adaptive strategies no go ... Found a ssm message from ford in the process of changing the shift solenoid 3 the are coming mis aligned and sticking ... Causing. The hard r 3 5 engagement.....yes solinoids can,be replaced separately at leat on the ford/Lincoln's
Did the solenoid fixed it
Did you figure it out?
@GaryFerraro What is the cause of the forward piston to blow out like that? Poor oil change maintenance? Or are they just prone to doing this?
I think as the clutch wears out there becomes to much clearance, as the piston returns it gets clipped.
Hi Gary, my 2017 Explorer 2.3L with the 6F35 has a delayed reverse engagement, only when cold. No forward shifting problems or check-engine light. Could you advise on what I might check for? If this might be a problem with the valve body, I'm good doing that myself. But splitting the case and rebuilding the trans would be a stretch for me. I am so pissed because it only has 75k miles, and I serviced the fluid at 30k and 60k, and I treat this thing like gold. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
2016 escape 68000 m.do you recommend fluid change or flush? No shifting issues.Tx.
I've a nasty problem my 15 Fusion SE 2.5 L was hit on drivers side wheel and broke off CV axle and left end piece in transmission . What would be the best way to remove it ? It broke off clean flush against tranny and there's nothibng to grab a hold of . Is there a metal obstruction that would prevent pushing in approximately 3/8 in rod from other side banging it out ? Or get a piece and weld it to the broken piece and pull it out from drivers side ? Or bite the bullet get the seal out wasting all that fluid and replacing both fluid and seal ?
If a piece broke off, you could try to weld something to it and pull. May have to pull the trans and split it open to get the piece out and to also make sure nothing else is inside the trans
I've owned and driven a ton of vehicles with this trans and every one of them has a harsh 2-3 shift. Just rebuilt one that was having issues, found the clutch support and the 456 drum had some wear and the 35R clutches we're scorched. Filter was plugged up and the valve body showed signs of wear. Was higher milage so it got a full rebuild of clutches and steels, molded pistons, valve body, torque converter and pump. I noticed after the rebuild the 2-3 shift was perfect. We always had a trans tech so I never had to do them up until about a year ago and we don't see a bunch of trans issues at the dealer that require a full tear down. My question is, what component causes the harsh 2-3 shift on these tranny's? I've also driven some that have a torque converter clutch that slips and locks repeatedly under a load like when pulling a hill that nobody seems to complain about. If I command it locked it stays locked but under PCM control they lock and slip almost as though it's being controlled to do so. Appreciate any answers or advice. Love watching your tear down videos. You make it look so easy but you've been in so many of them. I am zip tying clutch packs together so I don't mix up parts as I'm removing them cause I don't do enough to recognize them by just looking at them. Haha
I had found the 2-3 problems come from the valvebody, there is a checkball that beats the plate up and causes shifting issues
@@GaryFerraro
For non warranty units do you recommend a valve body replacement or do you use the repair kits like the Sonnax Zip Kits?
@@littlebearish I either go with a transgo shift kit or send the valvebody to Reamman for rebuild
@@GaryFerraro
Appreciate your replys. Thank you for your time. Your videos are great and very informative.
I have a 2016 Ford Escape 1.6 4wd it will shift fine for about 20 minutes then will start whining and slipping and eventually stop moving. I can shut it off and it’ll be okay for a few more minuets. Any ideas on what it could be?
Hello, My name is Fernando Brum. I'm from Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil.
I have a ford fusion 2010 3.0 v6 awd and in this last week it is delaying to make the change from 2 to 3 march, but after turning on the fault light normalizes the gear change, it is presenting fault in the solenoid b, Mr. Ferraro could help me with this problem.
Acontece a mesma coisa no Titanium 2014, após vc fazer o que volta ao normal?
Very informative. Here is an obvious question-does this trans take a filter? It doesn't look like there is one. You can find a listing for them however.
Filter is inside, trans has to come out and be split apart
getrag stuff.......i own a 16 fusion i change the oil 50000 100000 km no complaint
I am I correct in assuming that the black plastic cap in the upper right hand corner of frame 44.12 that Mr. Ferraro is holding with his right hand is where you would add new the trans fluid after you first drained it from the plug at the base of the trane?
You fill through the top, the check the fluid there is a plug by the left side axle
If its leaking out the front main seal would you recommend changing the torque converter seal as well or just the main seal?
Hi Gary ,I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT 3.0 V6 6f35 gearbox.Had the gearbox repaired as was not shifting from 2nd to 3rd etc ,working ok now .Before the repair it seemed hot and when took out the dipstick the oil exploded up so had to put it back in quick .Since the repair doing the same thing which does not seem right,the gearbox company said it was ok ,dont believe them. I checked the oil while cold,as i pulled the dipstick out sounded like air escaped ,oil seemed to be in the middle of the range ,but how can i check when hot if keeps splurting out and losing oil .Any advice apreciated.
Hello. I like to watch the video.
I want to know the location of the filter on the transmission ford escape 2014. Thanks
Inside the transmission, filter is not serviceable
Thanks
Mauricio Ramirez Welcome
Since the filter isn't serviceable (stupid) a full transmission fluid flush then every so often I did the flush on my 3.7l V6 MKZ at 32k miles only because the PTU CRACKED AT 29K which was in for service pump out the old replace with new imgotma new upgraded free and at the time imhad them service my RDU. Some Certified Used Lincoln MKZ AWD 3.7L V6 I'm adding the PTU drain and fill to my annual service I'd rather pay a few bucks than waiting weeks for a new part
Doing engine r&r on '13 Escape 98k and found the stator support splines almost gone. All knife edged. Is that common on this trans? I'd never seen that before.
2015 Escape 1.6 AWD 160kmi. Got the common loud whining noise. Used to be only a few seconds after start up, now always whines. Sounds just like a bearing to me, but I don't know much about this 6F35. Code is P0219 over speed. Starts slipping going into 3rd, then it goes bonkers, over revs and goes into fail safe. Also, NO REVERSE unless I shut it off, wait a few seconds and restart. Drained some sample fluid, saw no metal. CLOGGED FILTER? TORQUE CONVERTOR? Or same issue(s) you just pointed out?
Never fixed a trans before, but used ones for the AWD are about $2k, so I gotta try this.
May be a filter noise, you have the 6F35 Trans?
@@GaryFerraro Yes. 2015 Escape AWD 160kmi. Starts slipping going into 3rd, then it goes bonkers, over revs and goes into fail safe. Also, NO REVERSE unless I shut it off, wait a few seconds and restart.
Looks like I may have torn down the transmission for nothing. LOL. After I tore it down I remembered that when I heard the whine/light grinding noise was with the car running in Park, so it could only mean a few things. TORQUE CONVERTER! DAM!! Rookie mistake!! If you shake the convertor , you can hear the exact noise it was making while running. I think the convertor actually has clutches inside it? I got lazy and just trusted the convertor was good because no converter codes.
Anyways, the trans looks good besides the 3-5-R steels are pretty bad. I was fully expecting to see a dam broken snap spring and wave steel on the 3-5-R because it was slipping bad going into 3rd. But it was also not going into Drive or Reverse after it was warm.
Right now, I have the valve body apart and don't see any issues. I looked at "refurbished" valve bodies on Ebay, but I know dam well they can't just re-machine valve body like that. They would have re-size all the pistons to make it work! Their obviously sell old cleaned-up ones!
You were right about the filter...My filteris is logged pretty bad with light metallics. I'm in the process of trying to find clearance specs on the oil pump to make sure the pump is still good. The pump has some light scoring in the side channel because of some burs on the outer ring gear. I'm thinking he convertor may have kicked the bucket because of low oil pressure from the pump or clogged filter. But, I never saw any codes for any low pressure or solenoid issues. Maybe the trans oil cooler is just too small or maybe because it is mounted on top of the trans instead of in the front grill area it lets convertor and trans get too warm. This thing does have 160kmi on it though.
My local trans supplier said they would have to order the 3-5-R steels. So, I'm just gonna use my green or yellow 3M Rolloc disc to scuff them out and give them back a little grip. I will replace the wave steel though, they have that in stock. This is a budget build and just needs to last a couple thousand miles.
Thank for your videos and responses. This was was my first transmission rebuild and I've haven't felt this satisfied trying to fix something in a very long time! Hopefully this bad boy works when I put it back in!!
@@Rob-pg7rb Do you have an external separate cooler that bolts to the trans? if you do change it, converter probably did go bad causing the screen to clog
I'm doing mine now. Have never done one before. But the cost is like a 1/4 of the vehicle new. I figured i might as will try it.
What kind of car? what is the problem?
@@GaryFerraro no problem yet. ford 2014 escape 6f35 transmission. 1st time . we have little money car is in mint but drive tons of highway miles. so doing it myself.
Servicing the transmission?
@@GaryFerraro a rebuild. do have a question. the solenoids are mixed up. is there a way to figure out what went where ?
Are 17 fusions with 6f35 reliable?
Holy cow that fluid is DARK. I have to wonder if the fluid was a major contributor to the problems in that transmission. Was it ever changed prior to service? It's considered good practice to do a drain and fill on these 6F35 transmissions at approximately every 30k miles. I do this, and the fluid comes out darkened/purple, but never this dark. That fluid looks positively BLACK, like crude oil. Just hazarding a guess, but that fluid looks like it was in there for a good 90,000 miles or so, if not longer. Either that, or it was horribly abused and/or overheated.
i just drained a 2013 Escape trans with 80k miles, fluid was black.
Motorcraft Mercon LV is known to turn dark very quickly. Gonna do a trans service on my fusion with 25k soon, and I'm gonna see how dark it is lol
Is there any check balls in the valve body channels, on either side of the plate, that I should be concerned about?
I have a 2013 Ford Escape SEL 1.6L FWD with 175k miles and the transmission is giving me trouble. I had noticed the shifting was slightly rough for a little while before this problem came up, and this started while driving in hills when it tried to downshift, causing the "service transmission immediately" light to come on.
It has a whining/whirring noise both in idle and when accelerating, it shifts roughly with occasional delay, and when it tries to downshift from 6th when going uphill it searches for the gear and doesn't seem to find it, or perhaps drops to 3rd or 4th instead of 5th. It also shifts rough. The Ford dealer pulled the codes p0729 and p07AA from it. According to the codes the 6th gear ratio is incorrect and there is an internal element friction problem. I had the trans flushed and the problem persists. The vehicle is still driveable if I take it easy, although I obviously have it parked now to avoid any further damage.
Do you have any suggestions on what the specific problem actually is? My best guess would be either the clutches or solenoid associated with 6th gear, and possibly the pump. I should have time to work on it myself, but I guess my main concern is being able to figure out whether the problem is electrical (replace solenoids) or mechanical. What can I do to further troubleshoot/narrow down the problem?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!
22:00 what is that piece that you pull out, you called it the diode. Is that supposed to be heard clicking in low gear outside of the car?
That is the mechanical diode or one way clutch
@@GaryFerraro Yes but my car makes that clicking sound when decelerating in low gears and I'm dying to figure out why. Is my tranny going?
a question, what do you think about a remote filter for the trans.. spin on type? just cut one of the lines add some fitting and add on a remote filter mount and filter...
Really never liked to do that
Hello, I paid for a repair in my Ford Escape 2014 AWD 1.6L, it was an overhoul and changed the bodyvalve. The car still has a problem bc a delays when it's cold in Drive and reverse. Im sure that didnt chage the Solenoid Body
ID Code. I want to know if I can see it without take out the bodyvalve's cover.
There should be an I'd tag on the top of the transmission remove the intake air box and youll see where the bell housing connects and it can be confirmed with the valve body and scanner tool checking idn and strategy
Hello, I have not seen you remove the transmission filter, is there one?
Yes, when i split the cases apart, attached to pump
Would you say this transmissions inability to change its filter is what caused this failure??
yes, a lot of these we get in are because of filter problems, all you can do is drain and fill
Hello dear
I am Mahmoud from Egypt. I own a 2015 Ford Escape
Engine power2.5
When driving in the car in the first gear, the car delays the second and third transmission, and a slight delay appears, and the rest of the shifts are good.
I hope the picture is clear
can you tell me if any codes are present?
I changed the speed sensor because the transmission would lock up sometimes and put everything back together and now it won’t move in drive or reverse any ideas?
did you hook up manual valve?
I am a industrial pump and gearbox rebuilder. My company classifies my job as a milwright. Anyhow, for such a small package there are a ton of parts to such a small trans. I honestly do not think I could tackle this job and get it all back together and actually work. Lol. How can you keep all those parts together and back together in sequence and know they are in proper order?
Larry Walden There is a manual you can follow. A company called ATSG puts out pretty good repair manuals to follow along with. I have been rebuilding since mid 80,s
good job my friend good to see you again
Hey Carlos, hope all is well. Gary
Informative vedio
2013 Escape with 80k miles, driver side inner CV is wobbly even when fully inserted in case. the CV joint is fine, no play, in fact it's a new Motorcraft replacement. has a pretty bad driveline vibration around 45-50mph, goes away when off throttle. the support bushing is not worn, could the play be from the diff bearing or case?
This is an All Wheel Drive?
@@GaryFerraro no, it is FWD. by support bushing, i mean the one that presses in the case and supports the inner CV joint.
I have a 6F35 I bought to replace a hosed one. The new one arrived with a cracked case. I'm going to swap the internals from the good one to the "bad" one. Is there anything I should watch out for? I have watched through this video once and it seems fairly straight forward. But please let me know if there is anything I should know when doing this. And thank you for posting this video!
Becareful when installing the bellhousing onto the main case, there is a seal for the converter that seal for converter oil. It's a small metal clad seal that seal around the input shaft
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the advice! All went relatively smoothly today, my friend and I swapped out all of the internals to the good case. Check this out, so we opened up the bad one and the same exact piece you broke off in this video was already broken off inside of the transmission. Before disassembly, the original trans was making a horrible grinding noise while idling, struggling to go into any gear etc. At times it would drive just fine. Eventually, we pulled the trans and today that is what we found.
No idea if perhaps we could have just taken that broken bit out and gotten it back to normal. We went ahead and swapped everything over. There was a ton of metal in the bad trans anyways and the filter was very gummed up, especially the magnet. So I think it is safe to say that area of the transmission's casting is incredibly weak. Any ideas as to how this could have broken without any prying? Keep in mind we simply popped the bellhousing off and low and behold that piece was floating around in there.
Cheers, I hope this thing runs fine now...
hi Gary, i have a ford fusion 2013, a got the code P0741 - Torque Conveter clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off. Any suggestions on what i should do ? only happens when i am at 65 miles an hour. i am afraid i will have to replace the trans.
Po741 means the converter can no longer fully l;ock up, this could be the converter itself, the seal on the stator inside the trans, could also be a valvebody or solenoid issue
Hello Gary, thanks for taking he time to make this video. I have a 2015 Fusion I bought new and have always had a hard 2-3 shift. It's been to the dealership multiple times and they always said it was normal. They did reset the computer. Do you think this would be a valve body/ solenoid issue or an internal failure? Thanks for any help!
Is it ok cold and not ok hot? or hard shifting all the time?
@@GaryFerraro all the time. Under harder acceleration it's not as harsh.
@@aaronlittles8772 If it's that noticeable could be in calibration or possible valvebody
@@GaryFerraro yes. All other gears shift smoothly. 2-3 shift has always been a slightly delayed harder shift. I'll try the recalibration and if that doesn't help I'll look into a new valve body. Thanks Gary, I'll keep you updated!!
Hi Gary, great video. Have a 2016 escape transmission failure suddenly with only a whine for about a mile prior.
Pulled it checked the pump and cut filter open both looked fine. Had a transmission guy tear it apart and inspect it. Said he couldn't find anything and suspected torque converter.
Replaced the torque converter and put it back in.
Doesn't move forward or reverse. Can feel a bump into gear but that's it. Put a pressure gauge on it. 120 psi park and neutral at idle. 300 psi in reverse 180 psi forward gears. No codes before or after. Happy to pay for advice hear in NE Pa!
I have a Ford Transit Connect failure. Internal, dealership on almost $5,000 to repair it. Personally I think it's gross when you're high for 2013. I have a question can I buy a complete rebuild kit. Do it myself. And what were the parts called. Appreciate if you had a general answer to that.
there are parts available, my e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com, e-mail me your vin number so i can confirm transmission type
Considering that this transmission design was a joint effort by Ford and GM, they didn't really do a very good job.
agree on that, i do more GM units than ford's
@@GaryFerraro why more gm versions?
@@randellgribben9772 The 6t40 tends to fail more because of the 3-5/R wave steel
Out of curiousity, how many transmissions come in around the Christmas/new years season?
Strange you would ask this my transmission in a 2015 Ford Fusion dies on January 10th. Is there some type of reason?
@@johncoyle5936 My thoughg was because people are often traveling down roads and through conditions that they aren't used to during the christmas season, that they may get stuck in the snow, and many people try to rock themselves out once they're stuck, 2hich can harm transmissons.
I been told Ford Escape 2015, transmission, ptu and rear drive if ever replaced it will need reprogramming. Can the reprogramming be done by a transmission shop or is it ford dealer only thing.
The solenoid body I.D and solenoid strategy may have to be programmed in. The has to be done through the Ford website, anyone with a pass through connector and a Laptop can do it
Hi Gary .I have a 2014 escape with 140000 .0 mile with same trans have not done a code check yet engine stalls when put in drive or reverse. I never knew about the 30k oil change .what do you think is the issue.. thanks
Does it start right back up again in neutral or park? Make sure you scan for codes, engine and trans.
im going crazy with my 2010 fusion.. the transmission was rebuilt completely, and everything works fine until it warms up.. then the 1 to 2 gear at wot slips but only when is warmed up.. any advise??
On These units, i always change the pump, solenoid body and do a Transgo shift kit, How many miles on the car?
Does not have an oil filter in it ??? I just bought a Ford Fusion, and I want to change the oil
the 6F35 filter is inside, can only do a drain and fill
Grate video Gary! is there a way to back flush the filter? i know its a hack.. Just asking for a friend :)
Not really no
Is it normal for these to feel like something is dragging until you hit the gas? Reverse a little more than fwd. 2016 Escape AWD. Can issues be seen by a tech without codes? Or how do you check the health of a transmission? About to hit 60k
Check the PTU, (Power Transfer Unit) that bolts to the trans for AWD, they always go bad, they hold 1/2 quart of grease and when it leaks out they are toast. Do you have the exact same tires on the car?
Thanks for this video. Very illustrative. I have 2013 escape, it shirt normal and I go like seventy miles per hour. Sometimes, at pickup I can hear some pressure noise in the transmission. Can someone explain the situation?
does anything change when the car is hot? any codes?
@@GaryFerraro no codes and it drives smooth. I noticed, the lower control arm on driver/ passenger front gone. Some vibration, greeeeee, pupppupp sound. Up hill I can hear like suction line sound, but shift normal. When hot it fine. I drove like thirty miles it okay. Only sounds like low fluid suction
I'm having a hard time finding the 2.3 2005 Mazda Tribute transmission rebuild video. Another question is, would it be possible to get those last gear assemblies that were messed up on yours and drop in some from a 2.3 Mazda 3 or Mazda 6 transmission to make a Frankenstein?
The trans in a Tribute is called a CD4E, No, the gears probably would not fit
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the advice and posting this Video, man I would have to name and number everything on paperboard with a pencil I would need a lot more experience to do it the way You did.
@@kerman559sanchez4your welcome, Thanks for watching
My 2016 ford fusion's 6f35 trans started slipping, high revving, erratic rpm and up to 30s delays before kicking into gear and accelerating like a bat out of hell. couple times i heard a hard clunk leaving a gas station on a slight incline.
at first it was only throwing engine overspend p0219, and then eventually incorrect gear ratio 1 and 2 p0731, 732.
i was forced to keep driving it carefully and it eventually threw a Solenoid A stuck off code p0751, friction element code p02700, and next day lost forward gear and it only drives in reverse.
i got the trans down, valve body connector had fluid in it, tested all the solenoids resistance, the frame, and they were all within spec. nothing physical looks bad in the valve body.
i haven't opened the main housing yet. its sealed with gray RTV and will be a pain to split open. what should i look for when rebuilding it? Possible forward clutch got lost in the 4th dimension?
there was no significant metal debris in the fluid. just looked like normal wear and wasn't terribly dark fluid either, just light brown on a napkin. possible burnt smell. it had an odor but even a former jiffy lube manager said it seemed fine or wasn't too bad.
thanks for your help and advice, Master Gary Ferraro
Before you take it apart, if you have an air compressor, air check the forward clutch, one of the 2 ports in the middle where the valvebody is. I think that the bonding came off the forward piston or forward piston tore and you lost forward
@@GaryFerraro Forward piston is blowing air and L/R works.
Everything else in it looks fine. i did have 2 chunks of the housing where that retaining ring is break off as well. one piece was loose an the other was cracked and i could easily pull it off by hand. might be why i heard clunks leaving a gas station.
@@darkshadowsx5949 ever find the fix sir?
I'm rebuilding a 6F35 now.
I have an issue with the 1-2-3-4 cutch measurement. It's supposed to be .002-.072 Mine is .078 and I've replaced the friction plates and steels. Also, when I took the trani apart, the original steels looked burned/heated. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Dave
They are a little on the loose side, there is only 1 choice of steel and one choice of clutches, not much you can do about that
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the reply. Do you think that maybe that's why the original steels were burnt?
Hello, I have a 2014 ford escape front wheel drive with 1.6 liter turbo engine. When I shift the automatic transmission gear from park to neutral it goes smoothly. However, as soon as I shift to drive I get a violent vibration. The car drive fine and the transmission shift smoothly. I replace all three mounts ( Motor mount, Upper and lower transmission mounts) I changed the transmission fluid. The car idle smoothly at 800 rpm. I would appreciate any input.
Does it seem like the car wants to stall
No. The car drive and shift fine. The vibration is felt on when shifting to drive
@@Ibamba7 well wondering if it could be the Torque converter coming on, does this happen in reverse too?
No only in drive. Could it be the valve body?
Hi Gary, since you've worked on 6F35 and 6T40 as well, are there any major difference between these two transmissions or they are pretty much the same thing?
They are different, overhaul kits i believe are the same but valvebodies are different and geartrain too, they look similar but are not the same
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for your response. Noted.
Since ford claims that the Mercon LV is a specific type of oil with special friction modifiers (may be just a marketing strategy) . Do you think we could still use GM ATF VI in the 6F35?
I’m sorry but what do you use to seal the front cover since it doesn’t have a gasket? Thanks
i use silicone
hello sir...how is the reliability of ford 6f15 gearbox ??..does it have issues like ford powershift...i live in india.... here ford recently launched this 6f15 replacing the powershift gearbox....would like to know from an expert like you.....thanks a lot ...its a great video...its rare to find masters like you....great indeed
What kind of car do you have?
@@GaryFerraro i am planing to buy a ford ka ...so bit concerned with the newly launch auto gearbox
@@GaryFerraro please advice
@@michaelma007 Ok, it looks like the trans in the video? this is called a 6F35
I have a Focus with the 1.0L Ecoboost and it has the 6F15. Seems to be a smaller version of this. Any word on it's reliability?
Hi Gary I own a 2010 Ford Escape with a delay on reverse (a 2 seconds delay), The day I bought it it was leaking transmission fluid from the axle seal, I repaired that and later I found a bottle of some cheap tranmission fluid on the back cargo area, an incompatible fluid, i think the previus owner was filling the tranmission with that. Could be the incorrect type of transmission fluid the cause of delay on reverse or be something else? Thank you.
using the wrong fluid may not make it shift correctly but will not cause a delay, how does it upshift?
Upshift it's just perfect
Is this 4wd or 2wd? The part that connects to the tranfser case is different bewteen them but as far as internals i have no idea.
This was a FWD
Hey Gary Good video. I`ve got a 2014 fusion with same trans. I`m getting p0731,732,and 733 codes. car will pull for a few minutes then stop pulling. Is this something that is an easy fix, or am i going to need a rebuild or replacement?
almost sounds like the filter is clogging up. When it stops moving and you turn off the car for a few minutes, does it move again for a few blocks?
@@GaryFerraro Yes it does I am with a small used car lot in Nashville, TN and we got this car from auction with 180k miles and no maintenance history.
I’m having the same issue, what can I do to remedy the issue? Does it require a rebuild? Or will a drain and fill possibly help?
Hi Gary. Thanks for the great video. I've just pulled a 6F35 from a 2013 Escape & am about to tear it down. Do you happen to have any videos or references that you like for doing a rebuild on this particular Trans. BTW, it's a 1.6L FWD.
Whats the problem with the trans?
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary. Thanks for the reply. Here is a 'brief' summary of my issue:
1) Trans was experiencing slight, but constant hesitations particularly in the higher gears.
2) Eventually, I got a 'Trans Fault' warning. When this ccurred, the 'S' option for shifting was disabled & also the trans would only stay in the current high gear. After these incidents occurred, I would pull over & turn off the vehicle. Even a short break would help & then the car would drive normally.
* Note: I have a bluetooth scan tool, & the codes that resulted were consistently 'P0218' & P1783 - Overtemp codes. I would sometimes get a P0731 (Solenoid) & a P0420 (Cat. Converter). However, these codes don't re-appear with the same frequency as the Overtemp Codes.
3) After a few weeks of this, I experienced the 'final Trans Fault' (LOL). This occurred at highway speed, after which the car would not stay at speed & had to be pulled over. The vehicle did not want to run after that, as it indicated that it was overall, too hot.
Cooling down did help, but the trans now was making a loud 'whining noise'. It would go into gear & move around for very short distances, but it wouldn't move & indeed shifting into a 'D' or 'S' forward gear would do nothing except move slightly into reverse.
* Note: I was suspecting that there was some obstruction of the transmission cooling 'circuit'. Indeed, the P0218/1783 codes seem to indicate this as a cause.
4) I had the car towed home & decided to drain the fluid, pull the (tiny) cooler & see if there were any signs of obstructions/debris.
Nothing in this was found, but the fluid (about 12000 miles old) was quite dark. It did smell & looked old before its time, but did not seem burnt.
5) I have since (in my infinite wisdom), pulled the Trans & have just gotten the case apart: My suspicion regarding obstructions seems to have been confirmed -I have found lots of red-brown plastic debris
in the 'vertical pan' & into the area where the chain & differential reside. I found no metallic debris other than (what seems to be) the normal maetallic stuff on the filter's magnet.
BTW, regarding the filter: The oblong hole which sucks the fluid into the filter was clogged by this plastic. Heck, it was melted onto the opening so much that very little fluid could actually pass.
This seems to be a smoking bullet for the cause. It is so 'amazing' that I would like to send you a photo.
My concern is that the Over-temp conditions caused sever damage to other components, esp the pump & Torque Converter.
What would your experience suggest?
@@archlab007 Probably the overtemp code was from a slipping converter, it also sounds like the whining noise is a clogged filter, chances are the converter came apart and clogged the screen, when the converter slips it generates a lot of heat, i would do an overhaul, change converter, in the overhaul kit are seals for the torque converter(i have a video on 6T40 common problems, almost the same trans, so you may want to watch that) Clean the trans cooler lines out good too. The P0731 code is gear error in first.
@@GaryFerraro I believe that we are of the same mind. With regard to the Torque Converter, it looks like it's gone because the outer spline just moves around inside the case. And with 116k miles (& the effort to get to it), that's something that I'd rather just replace. Regarding the 'red-brown' plastic: Do you think that came from the Torque COnverter? Or is there another part that just 'came to Jesus' too soon? It's more of a curiosity thing about this plastic.
I know that my 'brief' synopsis was anything but brief - thanks for going through it. I just have 4 questions at this point:
1) Where would you recommend getting a Torque Converter from? I found one on Rock Auto for $128...if it's good, that seems like a steal.
2) Since I drive a lot, I'd like to do some upgrades: I'm considering an auxillary Trans Cooler. I like one of Hayden's plate & fin coolers to mount towards the front of the Escape. Any thoughts?
3) What are your opinions on a Transgo Shift Kit? Do these have any real benefits? Any other upgrades for a heavy use vehicle (mostly city driving....but a lot per day).?
4) Do you think that a sticking brake caliper may have contributed to this kind of failure?
Again...I appreciate that your time is valuable, so a BIG Thank you .
BTW, I am gonna check out your 6T40 video next. And if you have a 'Go Fun me' page, etc...please let me know what it is.
@@archlab007 I believe the torque converter is coming apart, that is what is clogging the screen. The red-brown plastic, when you split the cases in half and exposed the chain, there are plastic "chain scopes" and lube dams, how did they look. My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com if you would like to send pictures. I never used a Transgo shift kit on this unit. they always worked good after overhaul. evaluate how the trans is, if bad internally you may want to consider a solenoid body.
I also never liked to add a cooler, i believe that will cause issues down the road, i just go with how it comes from the factory and never had an issue. I dont think a sticky caliper caused this issue, the converters have this common issue, the lining comes off. I do general repairs in my shop too, and see caliper problems all the time. This trans is the 6F35, the last 2 i did had converter issues and just checked out another one, same problem. I dont have a Go fund me page, but a paypal account for donations, i do not charge anything for any info or help that i supply.
hi gary thnk for you video, I have fusion 2007 the transmission is ok , but sometimes it does a hard beat when driving uphill street, any idea ? need to buy or change master kit, banner kit , pump? o any idea? thk
By chance are there any codes present?
not the sacnner dont show code, rare I want to try to change the oil, how many liter need it to buy? my fusion is 3.0
@@abrahamjw7 All you could do is a drain and fill, may take about 4 quarts, do you know how to check the fluid level? no dipstick correct?
good video Gary hows it going? i am still busy as can be here at north Seattle trans.
Yes, its busy, slowed down a bit but steady
I have a 2016 Escape 2.0L AWD. It has a front pump whine when its cold and will shift hard for about the first 5 miles. Have you seen this before? Thanks.
is there a check engine light? any codes stored for the trans
No Codes or light. I just changed the trans fluid tonight. It was black. Seems to be shifting better. Will see in the morning when its had a good cold soak.
ok, sounds good
Gary, when I got my kit I seen I got 2 different separator plates for the main control. They are only slightly different. My question is do you know if I should go with the same plate that is on the main control or is there an updated plate I should be going with? Also, is it a case where the kit contained 2 different separator plates because there are 6F35's out there that are slightly different based on make, model, etc, etc...?
Go with the same plate that is on there, they may have made some changes to the trans(they call them generation 1 and generation 2) the kit you have may work on what generation you have
I'm replacing the solenoid body as well and when I opened the box I found a separator plate already installed on the solenoid body so I just went with that one. I should have it ready for a test drive Monday.
Was there a tag too?
Gary Ferraro , you mean a part number on the separator plate?
Chad Cole is this a new solenoid body?
My 2013 Ford Escape 2.0 is tuned, my transmission slips sometimes when I drive with the 87 octane tune, I would like to upgrade the parts from the transmission to make it handle 400-450 horsepower and prevent it from slipping. Would you suggest a performance torque converter? anything Else? Liked the video.
Yes, performance torque converter, maybe see if alto has a performance clutches and kolene steels
@@GaryFerraro could you be a little more specific with who may have an upgraded torque converter and clutches
@@Tookoff The company is called Alto, They make the Red clutches, not sure about this trans, have to research, Pro Torque is good for performance converters
Hi i have the 2019 ford escape with the 1.5 ecoboost engine . Does it have the same transmission ? and have they been improved over the years?
Yes, with the 1.5 you have this trans, they made changes around 2016, they call it 6F35 Generation 2
@@GaryFerraro Did the changes make them more reliable?
Thanks for the teardown video. I have the 13 escape 1.6 eco awd and my left front cv axle moves up n down INSIDE the tranny which has me awful worried have you ever seen that ? Do you know the cause ?
It's a common problem with this transmission. The bushing wears out and eventually causes a leak at the case. They have an updated wider teflon bushing that has a notch for the feed hole in the case. It can be replaced in the car, but you'll need the correct tool to draw the bushing out. If the shop does not have the tool then I wouldn't let them try because you can damage the case. The tool is pretty slick! Just make sure you key the new bushing in so you don't block the feed hole.
@@anthonysainz7596 thanks. I would just throw it up on my 2 post. I actually found the problem when I replaced the left front cv axle. Going over a ruff gravel road it literally sounds like ball joint slap lol I replaced my rear differential about a month before and I'd of sworn it was a bad rear wheel bearing till it got louder and worse. Tricky little bitches 😂 thanks ford !
How do you get the snap rings back into the forward drum?
You mean the center support snap rings
Yes
i use a shell from a 4R100 transmission, i cut some "windows" in it to get my hands in there and see that snap ring too@@sabinfigaro5772
@@GaryFerraroI cannot seem to find a way to get this compressed and can’t afford the special tool right now. How bad would it be if I did not include the snap ring retainer ring?
What is the problem, i have seen these forward pistons Debond@@sabinfigaro5772
What makes reverse stop working in 6f35 transmissions? I put mine in reverse and I can feel the shift like it wants to go but when you give it some gas it goes nowhere.
How is 3rd and 5th gears? how does the car upshift?
@@GaryFerraro it's pretty bad.,much better when warmed up. I let my foot of the gas at just the right times to allow it to shift softer.
@@johnsmith-dm2tq sounds like the 3-5/reverse clutch may be no good
@@GaryFerraro well i bought this suv to learn on, im going to do some diagnosing first. if i do learn to rebuild this trans do you have any advice for choosing the correct rebuild kit? 6f35 is in everything 2 4 and awd. 09 escape 4wd incase that matters.
@@johnsmith-dm2tq I always go with TransTec kits. If you need help with parts let me know
how many miles were on the vehicle?
He bought it used about 4 months ago, had about 90K on the clock
Looks like a victim of the "Lifetime" Mercon LV. Most Ford techs recommend doing a flush at 30K or 4 drain and refills, and then doing at least one drain and refill, approximately 5 quarts, every 30k afterwards. 150K is too much for this fluid. Its black by 20k.
Yes, every 30K is when it should be done
Can you provide me the rebuild kit part numbers and where purchased?
Larry Walden I purchase all my parts from Transtar. I’m traveling over the next few days so I have no access to part numbers
Hi Gary,
I hv a 2013 Ford Explore XLT with this transmission but its front wheel drive. The dealer is saying the seal was leaking and now I burned it out. Ford dealership give me a part# for 6F55 im so confused. If it has. 6F35 now why can't I just rebuild that. He claims I burned it out. Having a hard time trusting him considering I drove it there and it had fluid. He said when he jacked it up all the fluid came out. Does this make any sense to you?
This is now based on a Front wheel Drive. What is your engine size? or if you like e-mail me your vin number gsferraro@yahoo.com
@@GaryFerraro 2.0
I sent vin to email.
I’m under the impression that this transmission is very similar to the GM 6T40. Are there any differences?
its the same.....its made by getrag
@@caterpillar6nz310 GM doesn't build their own? This one is built by Ford in Sterling Heights MI
Nice tear down video Gary. No rebuild video of the 6F35?
Not yet, will keep that in mind.
Thanks for the reply. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 1st 6F35 right now. It had a harsh shift into reverse and intermittent harsh 3rd and 5th. I've torn it down and found the direct clutch pack toasted. I'm hoping to get it put back together tomorrow actually. Any other tips, common things, etc, etc... you can think of that will help in the rebuild, anything that could be easily missed? I'm hoping to only have to pull it once. TIA
Chad Cole Hey bud, so how did it go with the installation? Did you manage to fix all of the issues it was having? My '13 Fusion's transmission started slipping yesterday after 5 years of ownership and 90,000 miles traveled. I am taking it to my local Ford dealer to get it checked out. I hope it's something minor.
Painful to watch. But he gets it diagnosed and fixed. (B-)
I give your transmission videos and F, for fail.
Can I dynamically change the oil in that transmission?
Just Drain and fill only
@@GaryFerraro any issues if its already done dynamically? 78k km millage
@@bob3rson when you say dynamically do you mean with a flush machine?
@@GaryFerraro correct, but no extra pressure.
@@bob3rson Not so easy to do with a machine i feel on this unit, I would just do a drain and fill a few times
How do I replace the front seal It's leaking from bell housing
The Transmission would have to be removed. I recommend cleaning down the area and make sure the leak is coming from there, not a common problem, If you do pull the transmission out address all seal, could be something at the AWD section
Please email me if you can I'd like to send some pictures of it to you and see what you say because its leaking from bell housing and is only when vehicle is running this is after I have replaced the rear main seal on the motor and reassembled it with the transmission alan.redden.2@gmail.com please if your able to help I'd greatly appreciate it
It's also the front wheel drive version
Well its coming from the input shaft seal
@@alanredden5344 My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com