Protemp Kerosene / Diesel Heater Review PT-70-SS - Part 2
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- čas přidán 14. 01. 2015
- I purchased a radiant kerosene/diesel heater for my garage and tested it out. This is an alternative to the standard torpedo style heaters on the market and I was surprised at how well it worked. I have even used this, experimentally, in my house and it emits less odor running on diesel than my wick style kerosene heater which is intended to be used indoors does on K1.
Where to purchase (this model has been replaced with an 80k BTU version):
amzn.to/3l7mvRj
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This heater is still working perfectly on pump diesel. It has proven to be reliable and convenient for me.
Really good review thanks for taking the time making a great video!!!
Hello, Because of your Video I bought a 80,000 btu heater like yours. Thank you for the great video.
Excellent review. Thank you.
I use nothing but kerosene in mine, I love it, just wish there was a low setting when you get to Room temperature were you want it.
I have a heater just like that and i run it on diesel and still runs great.
The greatest thing about the radiant heat from these is that it heats the objects in the room, and the air. So it pretty much turns anything in line of site warm, making that object also give off convectional heat. The more stuff you have in the line of sight will cause it to warm up faster and stay warmer longer after you turn off the heater. A torpedo heater heats mostly just the air with a little bit of radiant from the cone is all.
One of the main reasons I chose this model- aside from the fact that it's bigger than my old one- is that it's far quieter than my torpedo unit. Which runs on propane and stinks like hell sometimes and occasionally makes my eyes sting. Anyway, I didn't think the noise from the torpedo would bother me, but it does get annoying after a period. This is about half is loud or slightly less than that.
Did you continue running it 100% on diesel? Or did you switch to kerosene?
I want to buy something that runs on diesel effectively without high maintenance or it developing odors after prolonged use with diesel. Thanks, great video...!
I got one of those "do not return to store" sheets with a dehumidifier. It didn't work so I took it back to the store and exchanged it for another one.
Thanks for the video. I just ordered one with the Master name one it (yellow), from TSC. My torpedo is too damn loud and smelly.
Excuse me for asking again, but I'm interested in this heater. How is it after a year of use?
Your new heater is build pretty much the same and functions the same as the torpedo heaters it is just built different.
I have a torpedo heater 270,000BTU and been running diesel in it for years and never had any problems.
I just got one of these. It's ridiculously good. Buy it.
Glad you have good luck I bought mine 1-11-25 and used it for 3 months off and on and didn't use it in 2116 and fired it up 12-2017 and it wouldn't work. Took it back to Northern Tool and got a call saying it would cost $223 to fix it. I know why the warranty is for one year.
Hi guys are you having like automatic sutdown once in a while? I just buy this and mine shut down some time after ignition but the fan continúes cooling for 5 mins the i need to turn off and on again and works again!!!
@@edgarduron46 turn fuel pressure down. Its too hot and shutting down
Assuming that's the same Kidde alarm as sold here in Ireland, it can make CO readings as low as 10ppm for its peak readout, even though the live read out will continue to show 0 below 30ppm. To use it this way for readings below 30ppm, press the peak+reset buttons together for a few seconds to reset the previous peak reading before starting a test. Then periodically push the peak button to see what the CO level has reached, assuming it gets between 10ppm and 29ppm. For example, a few hours of running our gas cooker will usually give a peak reading of 10ppm to 14ppm, even though the live read out always shows 0.
There's another brand of CO alarm fairly popular here by Fireangel and its live reading starts at 10ppm. As far as I'm aware of, the 30ppm minimum live read out set by most CO detectors is to prevent people panicking over a low non 0 readout.
Thanks for the info! I'll try that.
And I agree that 30ppm is the lower limit required by the government to be displayable so they cut anything less than 30ppm to zero to avoid people panicing about non-zero readings. CO is dangerous but it seems people are a bit irrational about it. I wonder how many smokers panic about non-zero readings when they breath high levels of it every day without issue. :) (without issue from the CO that is)
You should do a reveiw of a milk house heater like the ones they sell at wallmart.
Cool vid but what is the electric cord for ???? to keep the fan running ????
Your kinda off on the radiant heat output. I also purchased one of these and the reason it feels to you like its 10 degrees higher in there than what you temp readings are is because of the infrared heating it puts off. I am also running mine on pump diesel fuel and have no issues. There isnt a single spot in my garage that i can go that i dont feel the radiant heat trying to melt my skin. It was well worththe purchase!!
I have the same size garage what type of heater would you recommend if I don't want fumes. Electric heaters do nothing. I need big BTU's
Usefull especially the low ore no smell was my biggest worry, would you consider using this in a living room? Im using co detector it claims 70 ppm over 8 working hours is ok.The noise wouldnt bother me.
How well is this unit doing now that you have had it over a year would like to know if anything is gotten clogged up due to using the diesel
I run a torpedo style heater, I have for 4 or 5 years now. I estimate I've burned a few hundred gallons total through it. The only maintenance I have done is replace fuel lines. I notice if I run for extended periods it makes it a little harder to breathe but not intolerable. I typically crack the garage or window while I run it now, and that seems to work well. If I plan on working for extended periods, I will preheat the garage, my tools, and whatever I'm working on -- for an hour to warm my tools and anything else, then open the garage and bring in fresh air, then only run the heater long enough to maintain a comfortable temperature.
Unlike many others I can tell you've actually had experience with these heaters. They do reduce oxygen concentration and can make some particulate fumes but like you say, if you are careful and give yourself some fresh air when you notice it affecting your breathing they work very well. CO is really the only thing to worry about which is why I have a personal policy of always having a CO meter around when I run a direct combustion appliance.
***** Thanks for your response! Also, Thanks to your videos, i've decided i need to buy both of these meters now. In fact, i will do it right now on amazon. By the way, i've enjoyed your video's and successfully desulfated my first battery (ive tried other ways, but now i understand what is happening). I did it using my Rolls-Surrete 24V 550AH bank i have (4 X Rolls S-550) I first Tried desulfating using a variable Dc-DC converter putting about 8 AMPS into the battery for several days, but that did not recover the bad cell. After hooking 3 of the 4 batteries up to the battery (18V), and putting about 40-80 AMPS to the battery for a few hours... the bad cell has now recovered! i can now draw 30 amps for almost an hour out of the battery before it drops out! Where as when i started.. i couldn't get more than 15-30 seconds before the voltage drop was too low to be useful. Can you please tell me where you got your c02 monitor from?? I'm not sure which one to go with.
lazerusmfh
They are usually called 'air quality meters', which all measure CO2 concentration. The one I purchased was surplus from an air handling unit and I repurposed it for this application. They usually cost $100+ new. The important thing to is that 1% CO2 is equal to a 1% O2 decrease. After about 2% decrease you can run into potential danger so I keep my meter below 1% (or 10,000 ppm) and then I know I am very safe. It does affect me in that I can tell I need to breathe more! No other effects have been noticed however in myself personally.
How many amps does it take to run that. Would it run off of solar power
to what temperatures can this product heat a space?
Great Video.......
you a fan of Cash Cab?
You could put the carbon monoxide detector directly in the exhaust stream (not too near as to melt) and measure that just to ensure the detector is working and I would be curious what the CO level there is.
CO meters generally don't work well at elevated or fluctuating temperatures due to the way they operate. They need to be placed in a stable location which is why I located it on my garage bench. I do know that it responds within a minute or two to CO levels from past experimentation with it. (Briefly starting a small engine is a good way to test these meters. CO should immediately spike to dangerous levels.)
How do you clean it after one year use
I'm curious. What would happen if you mixed diesel with kerosene? That thing is really impressive.
They can be mixed without issue. I've already run it on a 50% mix and it works very well that way even in cold temps. Truckers and farmers frequently run a diesel/kerosene mix in cold temps to avoid gelling.
Nth, How do you intend to use this? Do you think you'll need to find away to run it on a thermostat as it puts out so much heat? Good quality items in your last 3 or so reviews.
The primary purpose was intended to be garage heat when I need/want to work in the garage during the winter. As it so happens it has proven itself to be safe for emergency indoor heat as well so it now has a 2nd purpose in life.
you cant add a thermostat
To run diesel in the fiberglass wick heater, add 1 oz acetone per gal.
I hear a lot of methods similar to this. Us xoz of alcohol per gallon, use a cetane booster, use an antigelling additive, etc. I've not seen any actual evidence that those products work aside from my own testing showing that alcohol does nothing. The only change that makes sense to me is a 100% cotton wick which should work better but I don't consider that to be a reasonable solution for various reasons. Even #1 diesel at pumps has additive packages added and they frequently mix #2 and #1 in trucks and tanks during changeovers resulting in impure #1 fuel. #1 heating oil has the same issues as #1 diesel with the additional issue of higher allowed sulfur content and dye. I simply don't think there is a 100% guaranteed solution to this problem without going to K1 which is never mixed with diesel. #1 diesel may work for some people in some situations.
I have a different brand of this same style multi-fuel heater. On mine, I have to put a piece of paper or something in front of the intake fan when I start up on diesel. The fan is pushing too much air to get a good light up. I am sure that kerosene would start without issue, but I haven't tried it yet.
Thanks for the tip! I might try this!
My concern is the fumes CO and CO2. My idea is to put a copper coil at the output as a heat exchanger, run the heater in the attached garage, then run the hot water produced into a radiator or baseboard radiator inside my house and put a fan on the radiator. what do you think?
it doesnt emit CO
How many hours will it run on one tank full of diesel and if it runs out will it turn it self off automatically.
7-8 hours. The manual says its consumes .5 gallon/hr
Chinese. My Master version lasted 3 uses. Reliability is a problem with these heaters. Ignition and fan problems. When they do work the heat is great. They only smell on first ignition. I think they oil them at the factory. It burns off pretty quick. Cheaper than a VAL6.
Hi mine is the same bit stops automatically every 30mins more por less is this normal?
Have you got yours fixed? Mine is doing the same thing and would like to know how to fix it
where do you buy something like this, ive never seen one in any hardware stores here in central, and south texas, nice
This one was purchased from Northern Tool.
watched your video and did more research and bought one of these heaters. your video has good info. unpacked my heater filled with diesel (approved fuel on instructions). plugged in. red light came on flashing. did not ignite. tried a few time with no ignite. nothing in the manual about flashing light. manual is terrible. many pages of safety warnings with an eighth page of operating instructions. called the tech support number on the paper taped to top in box. no answer. fuel leaks out of cheaply made cap. pretty heavy to move when full of fuel. looked online more for complaints. these are common problems, so do some reading before you buy.
I have had mine a couple years now. now it runs fine for about 5 minutes then goes into cool down mode. i cant not find a solution to this problem.
Did you ever find a solution? Mine is doing the same
@@sandralemen4048 I never did. Took it apart and put it back together and never could get it working. I ended up buying a northern tool one and it's been working really good
Can you run Diesel many Kerosene heaters fairly safely? How far out of Spec is K-1?
Diesel can be safely used. It will smoke a little more on startup and smell of 'diesel exhaust' for the first minute or so but will work just fine otherwise.
you can also mix 1 part gas to the diesel to help thin the diesel a little.
Electric heat is the worst for dollars per BTU Im assuming you dont have access to Natural gas.
Looks like a great little heater I have a bunch of Offroad Use Only diesel I wonder how long one of those heater would run on that before crapping out
Yup. I am 100% electric discounting the liquid fuels I bring in myself.
***** Ouch I installed a Lennox air to air Heatpump at my Friends house in washington he has electric only cut his bill by a 75% sounds like your in a colder climate tho
I do Work at a hospital that has a Massive Geothermal Heatpump system its Amazing how much money it saves them and how comfortable it is.
mattmopar440
Heat pumps don't work well in my climate - they are designed for warm climates like the one you live in. (Yes, all of Washington state is 'warm') And no, they are most certainly not comfortable in cold climates. :) They blow air only 10 degrees or so warmer than the ambient temperature which feels cold. Geothermal is slightly better but around here you need to use a vertical system which is very expensive since our frost depth is 48''.
***** Im in Illinois the one I'm currently working on is in chicago area. its a Massive 15 acre man made lake doesn't use vertical wells. Works very well now when I got here it wasn't they where having massive problems with it. Its still a new technology in this country and takes training to properly set up and dial in the equipment.
mattmopar440
Hey, if you've got a location (such as a lake) that doesn't require vertical drilling then geothermal is great! I don't have that luxury but I wish I did!
December 2016 now. How is this heater running?
Excellent. It is still running strong. I use it primarily for those times when I want to work in my garage but it also functions as aux heat for my house or as an alternative for electric heat in my garage.
knurlgnar24 does it heat up your garage fast or does it take few hours to heat up the garage ?
You said you had a 30000 btu eletric heater before this one how could you run that on a house cercet thats over 8700 watts
30,000 BTU equates out to about 3500-4000 watts. I use a 240V 4800 watt heater rated at 38,000BTU. It's plugged into a 30Amp circuit.
Ok i thought that 1 btu =.3 watts
+Gene Mowat 3kw is 10k btu
How is this heater working for you now?
i have a torpedo style propane heater for my garage. it is very loud. it does heat my 2 car garage quickly, though. did you consider a propane style heater for your garage? i bought mine because of the convenience of propane.
Propane is cleaner burning but it requires bulky tanks and other annoyances in terms of refilling cylinders, safety, and such. Combine that with the consideration that a 20lb propane tank (which holds 14lb of propane) only equaling 2 gallons of kerosene in terms of heating value and BTU/hr limitations at various tank sizes and temperatures it just makes for a better product to burn kerosene. I can throw this thing in my trunk, haul it around and then run it for for 7 hours, then refill it at any service station. Propane isn't so convenient, so cheap, or so safe in comparison. I have nothing against LP but it just isn't the best solution for me in this case.
***** This conversation interests me quite a bit. Here in South Africa we are currently dealing with sharp rises in electricity costs and everyone is looking for ways to cut down. One of the obvious changes that came about almost immediately is people started switching to LPG to heat their homes. In terms of cost, if you take the calorific content of a kilogram of LPG, convert it to kwh and multiply by 9 (the most popular size bottle), you find that a 9kg bottle of LPG holds 115kwh of energy, and since 115kwh of electricity now costs just a little more than 9kg of LPG, it is actually cheaper to use LPG.
(It's not cheaper to cook with LPG though, because electric stoves are so much more efficient at getting the heat INTO the container and the food that you're cooking).
I tried to do some of the same comparisons with wood, since my home also came with a wood-burning fireplace (sadly open-cycle and therefore very inefficient). Once again the calorific content of wood varies greatly, and the cheaper kinds of wood (we use mostly blue gum) aren't all that great, so that wood should work out quite a bit more expensive. Granted, we don't get temperatures of minus 10F (minus 23 Celsius) in South Africa. Where I live we haven't been below freezing in at least a century... :-)
What I'm curious about is whether Diesel might turn out to be a cheaper heating fuel than LPG. I don't suppose you know off hand? I suppose I should just redo the exercise I did for LPG :-)
plonkster Answering my own question. If Diesel has 12.4kwh per kilogram and a liter weighs 850 grams, then 9.5kg of diesel has the same energy content as 9kg of LPG. That's roughly 11.2 liters, which at present fuel costs is 15% cheaper than the equivalent in LPG. Assuming all other things are equal (which they probably aren't).
No building is air tight to include a well insulated garage
I guess it's all relative. Unless it gets down to -20F or so which causes some weatherstripping gaps to open up my garage door seals pretty well and there is no light visible during the day if I turn the lights off aside from a few peeps from the corners. As well sealed as my house? No. I tested with a CO2 meter and found that I get about 1 air changes per day in my house which is pretty good. I'm sure it's far higher in the garage but I bet it's still only a few air changes per day aside from opening the doors.
Your meters should be ceiling height. Do you know you could be leaking bad gases from your garage into your home? Also health standard is not more than 5000 ppm, your meter was reading 9999 and that was maxed! Suggest getting better meters and hanging them correctly.
I suggest you educate yourself. CO mixes homogeneously with air and height doesn't matter, and CO2 levels are based on air exchanges per hour for good air quality and not absolute CO2 concentrations. Look up partial pressures for more information.
Well that's funny even the fire marshalls tells you where to hang them because the gases are very little lighter than air and have no smell or taste. Thanx for being a jerk when concern enters into the equation for peoples safety and lives, including yours and your family over dumb remarks.!
NOTE: carbon monoxide will rise with the warmer air.
When considering where to place a carbon monoxide detector, keep in mind that although carbon monoxide is roughly the same weight as air (carbon monoxide's specific gravity is 0.9657, as stated by the EPA; the National Resource Council lists the specific gravity of air as one), it may be contained in warm air coming from combustion appliances such as home heating equipment. If this is the case, carbon monoxide will rise with the warmer air.
Oh yea I forgot. Your the one who tossed all them warnings aside ignoring them.
www.homesafe.com/coalert/detect.htm
Carriage House Farm and Gift Your concern is well intended but sounds a lot like you're just regurgitating your interpretation of what somebody else told you. You don't really know what you're talking about; the guy called you out on it, and he's a jerk? His family isn't in danger, I fear more for your own family. What if you misinterpret what somebody else tells you again, and put their lives in danger???
+Anonanom I agree. Plus If you really pay attention , as in the way someone speaks and their characteristics I was able to tell he was being funny and in jest, when throwing the safety stickers and he knows what he is doing , or maybe I just have a natural knack for reading people. bit I agree with your reply Anonanom.
any way using such heater indoor is not healthy at least it will consume all oxygen from our fresh air inside
all propane heaters and kerosene heaters use oxygen
How can you make a beautiful heater like this and NOT put in an automatic thermostat? Just dumb by the manufacturer.
the way its designed you cant
DMAN22yeah why can't you? The fan and igniter/fuel pump have a different power feed. Have the thermostat only interrupt the power to the fuel pump/ignited. I have one of these and am about to attack this very issue.
Michael Durkin its supposed to be able to run a cool down cycle to prolong its life, the way you plan to do it sounds like the better way
DMAN22yeah it may or may not work. Only one way to find out
Michael Durkin i would design a circuit that would perform a normal shutdown on it, its been forever since i watched the video but theres probably an easy way
That was a great rant on gasoline. Im guessing your wife wasn't around.
HOLY SH**!! I HAVE A WIFE????
***** maybe not...
***** Congrats I guess
Peter Carlson
It rant on gasoline ? Diesel ! never put gas in these or they will rant and rave and burn your house down
mattmopar440 They say it needs fuel. And I don't know what fuel is. I mean red bull is fuel, gasoline is fuel, kerosene is fuel, so I'm just going to use what I have. I have gasoline. I'm gonna fill this with gasoline. MMMM glug glug glug glug glug glug. I'm using the old non carb complaint gasoline cause it pours better, and I like it when it pours. I don't care about the environment. Lets fill this whole thing up with gasoline. MMMMMM gasoline. It's a multi fuel heater it should burn gasoline. They say not to use it but I'm smarter than them. So I gave this what I have and that's gasoline.
***** Get a Mercedes Benz before a wife the merc is cheaper.
And what's with all that tapping and banging on everything you touch, good thing you bought a scratch&dent heater.
what I
was thinking
Close to $400 for this heater and it doesn't even have a thermostat???
Less than $300, but no thermostat true. The models that have thermostats generally don't last that long as they do not have a cool down cycle. It depends on what you're looking for and if you need a thermostat this isn't what you're looking for.
@@knurlgnar24 Thanks for writing. As a newbie, I purchased and today received an 80,000 BTU Dyna-Glo Delux KFA80DGD. I filled it with K1 kerosene, fired it up and pointed the exhaust end out the Garage door to let it burn off whatever might smell bad. After a half hour, I turned the unit around pointing it back into the garage and closed the door. I let it sit there for about half an hour and then entered the garage again. Much warmer. The thermometer indicated a definite rise in temperature and the garage was comfortable, heat wise. The Co monitor indicated NO carbon monoxide. STILL... within a few minutes in the garage my eyes and nostrils were being irritated to the point of burning with the fumes. Cigarettes never affected me like this heater does. QUESTION: Is your heater any better than mine where fumes and irritations are concerned? Thanks
@@tribulationprepper787 Your unit either has a problem of you have bad fuel. These heaters will make anyone's eyes water and burn if the fuel is not being aerosolized properly when it is injected which usually means pressure too low (plugged filter or bad pump) or a nozzle issue. If you are reasonably confident that your fuel is good quality I would drain the fuel and exchange it for another unit from wherever you bought it. You can try draining the fuel and running a gallon of ordinary pump diesel through it as well to verify. (it will smoke a little on startup on pump diesel but burn very clean after that) I have actually run this heater in my well sealed house (unfinished basement, heater startup and shutdown outside) for more than an hour straight and had no noticeable small when I returned from work the next day or when I had visitors that weekend. I did this as an experiment and wouldn't recommend it but it shows just how clean burning these are when working properly. **edit** I just read the model you purchased and those torpedo units are a little dirtier burning in my experience as they have less surface area for the 'catalytic' effect of the front bright red hot surface to burn residual fuel. That heater though is definitely not working properly and should not cause any distress to even the most sensitive people AFTER it is warmed up fully. They all smell some on startup and shutdown but just smell, not eye watering stuff.
@@knurlgnar24 You mentioned "bad fuel". My K1 is about four years old and has developed some deterioration noted by a lite yellowish coloring. It is no longer any good for use with my wicked heaters. I turned the pump pressure set screw back/left three turns and it is better in terms of smell but there is still a slight irritation to my eyes and nose. Any remedy you know of to the old fuel problem. I still have about 190 gallons in an IBC Tote to go through. Thanks
@@tribulationprepper787 I don't know your particular situation but I doubt that your K1, if good initially, has deteriorated this much in 4 years. Kerosene if not water contaminated and stored in an environment absent of light should store nearly indefinitely. For example I pulled a wicked heater out of my parents attic that was 30+ years old a while back and the fuel in it was perfectly fine. Do you know why your fuel does not work in your wick heaters? I'm curious what happened here...
$400 is the price on this device. sorry but no device like this is worth that money. You will never get a good return on this investment. sorry but you could buy 8 electric heaters for or that price. these eat the petrol or gas as you call it.
It's $199, where are you looking....
Adrian Rivas I can't remember. I live in Ireland mate. But I wouldn't mind buying one of these for my work. Our heating isn't working at full steam. It's very old and needs TLC allot of the time.
Talking Heads
They say it needs fuel. And I don't know what fuel is. I mean red bull is fuel, gasoline is fuel, kerosene is fuel, so I'm just going to use what I have. I have gasoline. I'm gonna fill this with gasoline. MMMM glug glug glug glug glug glug. I'm using the old non carb complaint gasoline cause it pours better, and I like it when it pours. I don't care about the environment. Lets fill this whole thing up with gasoline. MMMMMM gasoline. It's a multi fuel heater it should burn gasoline. They say not to use it but I'm smarter than them. So I gave this what I have and that's gasoline.
Fail ...
🤦🏻♂️. They let anybody on CZcams
Yup, they sure do. Even you!
@@knurlgnar24 you are a freaking idiot!!!!!