Congrats on the D24. It's a beautiful monitor that will last you for years to come. Glad I was able to help out. The only problem I've ran into is the PS4 doesn't seem to work with this box. Everything else I've thrown at it works.
@@Ex_Savior nice, enjoy it :) I recently bought a 14 inch PVM, connected it to Mister FPGA (via VGA to RGB+Sync cable) and playing games, that was cheap and easy to connect.... But than I started to wonder how can I hook up my laptop's HDMI output to the PVM RGB input for watching cartoons and movies and I stuck, can you recommend something for that? My PVM doesn't support HD resolution, only standard PAL/NTSC.
I use a bit simpler method by connecting the HDMI cable via a Tendak adapter into the Extron RXI. Works perfectly for 480p and 720p but haven't tested 1080i. Tendak is a small passive adapter that converts HDMI to RGBHV with good quality. Also great for displaying OSSC on the BVM, like linedoubled 480i stuff to 480p to play it lagless on the BVM without the interlacing.
Can you link the HDMI to RGBHV (good quality, lagless) converter? Using HDMI>Component/RGBHV is better than HDMI>HDSDI so would also like to do this. Also, how can it be passive? Digital needs to be converted to analog.
That bvm would be killer for shmups. I finally found a pvm recently after searching for several years. It's much older than yours and only does up to 480p, but I love it for playing all the older stuff like nes, genesis and snes. I am kinda curious as to why you are playing nes games in HD with scanline filters when you have a CRT BVM that should have nice natural scanlines and should also be able to output at the games original 15khz 240p resolution in RGB... But hey, whatever floats your boat. That BVM is just begging to be setup vertically and have some DonPachi on it though haha.
In theory, this would be great for a TATE set up, but try flipping a 100+ lbs CRT and having room for it! I don't think I'd use it for TATE ever, as there are many other alternatives out there, like my PVM 20L5. If you're not aware, the original Analogue Nt was only able to out HDMI or RGB/Component. When I bought my Analogue Nt, I had the HDMI kit installed. It's also my only NES console at the moment, so that's why I showed it on HDMI and with the scanline option. TBH it looks great, and that's a personal preference and choice.
No audio delay at all. Keep in mind that the audio is not going through any converters. It's going straight from the PS3's optical out directly into my Razer Leviathan.
@@Ex_Savior 5 years later I'm back to this video, finally got one of these beauties :). Was barely used, but had to be freight shipped, came in perfect condition!
I've been having no luck hooking up PS4 (via HDMI-HDSI converter) to my BVM D24. I've set my PS4 to 720P, hook it up to adapter and connect to HDSDI port of my PS4. Upon switching the channel, it' just flickering, and flickering and not showing up anything at all. I've even tried to use my Gefen PRO (HDMI to SDI converter), same result. I am wondering if it has to do with HDCP and because in your setup, you loop HDMI signal through to the HDMI switcher, and then the signal output somehow bypass HDCP?
I had the same problem with the PS4 as well. From what I can tell you, the PS4 has either a strict HDCP encryption, or it's very picky. I found that the only solution the strip the HDCP encryption is to run an HDMI splitter in your set up. I've actually been testing out new Extron product I recently got and plan on making a video on my findings. Just a sneak preview: I got the PS4 running on my D24. ;)
@@Ex_Savior what settings do you have to change on your ps3 to get it to show on your BVM? I have a 20L5 with an HDSDI card. My nintendo switch when set up works fine but my ps3 gives me no sync and my ps4 only gives static
Unfortunately, the original and second production Analogue Nt (the one shown in this video) has a hardware limitation that doesn't allow for both digital and analog output. The Analogue Nt mini can do both.
This is a stupid question, but when you have the analogue connected through HD-SDI, does the monitor show real scanlines? Or do you have to use the analogue's scanline filters?
Not a stupid question at all. When you use the HD-SDI, the only resolutions the D24 can output on this is 720p nd 1080i. Therefore, there are no scanlines visible. However, if you have something like an Nt Mini hooked up to it through HD-SDI, you can apply scanlines through the console.
That's not a dumb question at all. What I did was use the optical out audio for consoles that support it. Since the converters don't support audio out, this was the next best thing.
probably the Extron solution is the best the SDI stuff didn't work for me and the converters are pretty complex to do. I would not follow the SDI path.
Also a SONY technician has told me that it is better to let these monitors run 24/7 rather than turning them off.. Or at least let them on standby mode. The tube loves to stay on, it gets far more stressed during the turn on/ off process.
I can't say that you're wrong, but I don't agree with this. I'd like to think of these BVMs like cars. If stored in the right conditions and used lightly, wouldn't you say it may last longer this way? However, if you got this information from a Sony technician, then there's no arguing that.
I am not aware of Mr. Pat, and obviously I can't name the technician. What I was told was that the tube gets extremely stressed during turning it on and if I am about to turn it on and off more than a couple of times per day then it would be better to leave it always on with no signal. The hour counter would of course get increased but the tube will get far less stress in the long term. The only reason to turn it off from the main switch is when you leave the monitor off for several days. This is also stated on the operational manual on page 3. It furthermore suggests to remove the plug from the wall if the monitor is not used for several days.
In the A series there is a standby timer and an operation timer so you will know exactly how many hours the monitor has stayed on stand by. In the D series there is only operation timer so you can leave it on standby as long as you like without being able to say how many hours it has stayed in that mode. Also turning the screen on and off creates huge stress. The screen is essentially a tube, I don't know if you are into tube amplifiers, but I know personally people, audiophiles, that they never turn them off for years for not causing them stress.
There is zero degradation on the phosphors when the gun is not working and the screen is pitch black. As for the other electronics there is definitely degradation, but there is degradation some times even if you don't use the monitor at all. Some capacitors for example age even without being in use.
I'd be interested in doing this but the SDI card has an annoying little fan inside of it that I just can't stand, I ripped that thing out the second I purchased my pvm.
does not look very bad... still, I see no much reason using HDMI on these CRT PVM tough, just put on a modern LCD. CRT PVM are more for retro gaming. These modern consoles are no good for them in terms of graphics.
I feel that's based on personal opinion. I prefer to get the most out of my BVM and use it for both retro and modern gaming. To each their own, I suppose.
You obviously stopped caring way before that. I mean you spent a small fortune on such a beautiful monitor, and then you cheap out on an adapter/convertor. You have lots of other nice things, but you cheaped out on one thing, that may or may not make the difference, in picture quality. It's like you bought a brand new car and decided to replace all the nice wheels with ugly spares.
I initially bought a "cheap" converter to see if it would work, and surprisingly it does. My main concern was the HDCP encryption being an issue. And it could always be worse! I could've invested in one of those cheap knock offs from overseas. However, you've made a strong point about going cheap on something I shouldn't. As you said, I do have a lot of nice things, but my funds are finite and I can only allocate so much money on so many things. My standpoint on my current converter was "if it works well and isn't broke, don't fix it". Well, then... since you feel the need to be extremely critical about my set up and this particular converter, do you have any recommendations for a good quality HDMI to HD-SDI converter that won't break the bank?
Thanks for the video. Recently acquired a D24, and being confused about how to get various sources in, this has definitely helped.
Congrats on the D24. It's a beautiful monitor that will last you for years to come.
Glad I was able to help out. The only problem I've ran into is the PS4 doesn't seem to work with this box. Everything else I've thrown at it works.
Keep the vids coming! Love your monitor/retro gaming vids
Hey thanks! I plan on doing more videos in the next few weeks. It's just very time consuming to make these.
Ghost in the shell is the masterpiece, I don't know how many times I watched it.
Same here! A 4K remaster is being released in IMAX theaters this weekend. I already bought my ticket!
@@Ex_Savior nice, enjoy it :)
I recently bought a 14 inch PVM, connected it to Mister FPGA (via VGA to RGB+Sync cable) and playing games, that was cheap and easy to connect.... But than I started to wonder how can I hook up my laptop's HDMI output to the PVM RGB input for watching cartoons and movies and I stuck, can you recommend something for that? My PVM doesn't support HD resolution, only standard PAL/NTSC.
I use a bit simpler method by connecting the HDMI cable via a Tendak adapter into the Extron RXI. Works perfectly for 480p and 720p but haven't tested 1080i. Tendak is a small passive adapter that converts HDMI to RGBHV with good quality. Also great for displaying OSSC on the BVM, like linedoubled 480i stuff to 480p to play it lagless on the BVM without the interlacing.
Why would you use the OSSC on a BVM?
Can you link the HDMI to RGBHV (good quality, lagless) converter? Using HDMI>Component/RGBHV is better than HDMI>HDSDI so would also like to do this.
Also, how can it be passive? Digital needs to be converted to analog.
That bvm would be killer for shmups. I finally found a pvm recently after searching for several years. It's much older than yours and only does up to 480p, but I love it for playing all the older stuff like nes, genesis and snes. I am kinda curious as to why you are playing nes games in HD with scanline filters when you have a CRT BVM that should have nice natural scanlines and should also be able to output at the games original 15khz 240p resolution in RGB... But hey, whatever floats your boat. That BVM is just begging to be setup vertically and have some DonPachi on it though haha.
In theory, this would be great for a TATE set up, but try flipping a 100+ lbs CRT and having room for it! I don't think I'd use it for TATE ever, as there are many other alternatives out there, like my PVM 20L5.
If you're not aware, the original Analogue Nt was only able to out HDMI or RGB/Component. When I bought my Analogue Nt, I had the HDMI kit installed. It's also my only NES console at the moment, so that's why I showed it on HDMI and with the scanline option. TBH it looks great, and that's a personal preference and choice.
Is there any audio delays/audio out of sync with the video when using hdmi to hd sdi for video and optical out for sound from the ps3?
No audio delay at all. Keep in mind that the audio is not going through any converters. It's going straight from the PS3's optical out directly into my Razer Leviathan.
subbed! Does this converter cause any input delay by the way?
Hey thanks! AKAIK, the conversion is digital to digital, which should not introduce any sort of lag.
Phatnightmares Thanks for the response, I'll be sure to get one soon then!
@@Ex_Savior 5 years later I'm back to this video, finally got one of these beauties :). Was barely used, but had to be freight shipped, came in perfect condition!
I've been having no luck hooking up PS4 (via HDMI-HDSI converter) to my BVM D24. I've set my PS4 to 720P, hook it up to adapter and connect to HDSDI port of my PS4. Upon switching the channel, it' just flickering, and flickering and not showing up anything at all. I've even tried to use my Gefen PRO (HDMI to SDI converter), same result. I am wondering if it has to do with HDCP and because in your setup, you loop HDMI signal through to the HDMI switcher, and then the signal output somehow bypass HDCP?
I had the same problem with the PS4 as well. From what I can tell you, the PS4 has either a strict HDCP encryption, or it's very picky. I found that the only solution the strip the HDCP encryption is to run an HDMI splitter in your set up. I've actually been testing out new Extron product I recently got and plan on making a video on my findings. Just a sneak preview: I got the PS4 running on my D24. ;)
@@Ex_Savior what settings do you have to change on your ps3 to get it to show on your BVM? I have a 20L5 with an HDSDI card. My nintendo switch when set up works fine but my ps3 gives me no sync and my ps4 only gives static
Wouldn’t it have been better to go the D-Sub to BNC route with the Analogue NT?
Unfortunately, the original and second production Analogue Nt (the one shown in this video) has a hardware limitation that doesn't allow for both digital and analog output. The Analogue Nt mini can do both.
This is a stupid question, but when you have the analogue connected through HD-SDI, does the monitor show real scanlines? Or do you have to use the analogue's scanline filters?
Not a stupid question at all. When you use the HD-SDI, the only resolutions the D24 can output on this is 720p nd 1080i. Therefore, there are no scanlines visible. However, if you have something like an Nt Mini hooked up to it through HD-SDI, you can apply scanlines through the console.
@@Ex_Savior thank you for the information! I really appreciate it.
Dumb question but, how do you get audio? I thought BVM's only have video output, so how does one get audio?
That's not a dumb question at all. What I did was use the optical out audio for consoles that support it. Since the converters don't support audio out, this was the next best thing.
Can i use an hdmi to sdi adapter and use a 1.4 hdmi on the adapter to an hd-sdi cable?
I believe you can, but this also depends on if the HDMI to HD-SDI supports an HDMI 1.4 signal. If it doesn't, you wont get an image.
For PS3 content, should you use RGB Limited or RGB Full?
I leave the RGB Full option turned on, but to be honest I don't really see much of a difference in image quality.
@@Ex_Savior Thanks for the answer. Do you prefer to play modern consoles on this BVM?
probably the Extron solution is the best
the SDI stuff didn't work for me and the converters are pretty complex to do. I would not follow the SDI path.
I'm sorry to hear that. The HD-SDI method worked for me and still works for me to this day.
Also a SONY technician has told me that it is better to let these monitors run 24/7 rather than turning them off.. Or at least let them on standby mode. The tube loves to stay on, it gets far more stressed during the turn on/ off process.
I can't say that you're wrong, but I don't agree with this. I'd like to think of these BVMs like cars. If stored in the right conditions and used lightly, wouldn't you say it may last longer this way?
However, if you got this information from a Sony technician, then there's no arguing that.
Pat told me the same thing too.
I am not aware of Mr. Pat, and obviously I can't name the technician. What I was told was that the tube gets extremely stressed during turning it on and if I am about to turn it on and off more than a couple of times per day then it would be better to leave it always on with no signal. The hour counter would of course get increased but the tube will get far less stress in the long term. The only reason to turn it off from the main switch is when you leave the monitor off for several days. This is also stated on the operational manual on page 3. It furthermore suggests to remove the plug from the wall if the monitor is not used for several days.
In the A series there is a standby timer and an operation timer so you will know exactly how many hours the monitor has stayed on stand by. In the D series there is only operation timer so you can leave it on standby as long as you like without being able to say how many hours it has stayed in that mode. Also turning the screen on and off creates huge stress. The screen is essentially a tube, I don't know if you are into tube amplifiers, but I know personally people, audiophiles, that they never turn them off for years for not causing them stress.
There is zero degradation on the phosphors when the gun is not working and the screen is pitch black. As for the other electronics there is definitely degradation, but there is degradation some times even if you don't use the monitor at all. Some capacitors for example age even without being in use.
I'd be interested in doing this but the SDI card has an annoying little fan inside of it that I just can't stand, I ripped that thing out the second I purchased my pvm.
That's the only draw back for the BKM 42HD haha. Normally, I don't even notice it since I'm always using sound when playing games.
I have removed the BKM-42HD from mine.. is loud as a hair dryer.
Lol yeah it's very loud, but considering that I always have sound coming out of my soundbar, the humming sound gets droned out.
Are BVM/PVMs only 30hz and under?
I was thinking of getting one but I need atleast 60hz
They are 60hz
@@vaciope4212 Heh, I found that out the hard way
Hard as in me actually buying one just to find out
Only 50/60 hz
Hmi shwitch endern mit. Extra audio out
does not look very bad...
still, I see no much reason using HDMI on these CRT PVM tough, just put on a modern LCD. CRT PVM are more for retro gaming. These modern consoles are no good for them in terms of graphics.
I feel that's based on personal opinion. I prefer to get the most out of my BVM and use it for both retro and modern gaming. To each their own, I suppose.
I stopped watching when he said "monoprice"
I stopped caring when he said he "stopped watching".
You obviously stopped caring way before that. I mean you spent a small fortune on such a beautiful monitor, and then you cheap out on an adapter/convertor. You have lots of other nice things, but you cheaped out on one thing, that may or may not make the difference, in picture quality. It's like you bought a brand new car and decided to replace all the nice wheels with ugly spares.
I initially bought a "cheap" converter to see if it would work, and surprisingly it does. My main concern was the HDCP encryption being an issue. And it could always be worse! I could've invested in one of those cheap knock offs from overseas.
However, you've made a strong point about going cheap on something I shouldn't. As you said, I do have a lot of nice things, but my funds are finite and I can only allocate so much money on so many things. My standpoint on my current converter was "if it works well and isn't broke, don't fix it".
Well, then... since you feel the need to be extremely critical about my set up and this particular converter, do you have any recommendations for a good quality HDMI to HD-SDI converter that won't break the bank?
Phatnightmares I found a few things on eBay, by "atlona"
Have you tested these out yourself? If so, can you tell me the difference between the Monoprice converter vs. the "atlona" converter?
I wondered why you're watching movies on a professional CRT when they would look superior on a properly calibrated plasma.
Retro games I understand...
Because I don't have a plasma TV and have no intentions of owning one?