Borg Warner 1356 Transfer Case Rebuild and Pump Mod, Project Brutus, Episode 25!!!
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2023
- In this video, I rebuild the Borg Warner 1356 or 13-56 transfer case for Project Brutus. The 1356 was installed in Ford Broncos and F Series Trucks - F150, F250 and F350 from 1987-1997, and they are not difficult to rebuild. However, if you are going to rebuild one, you should be aware of the poor design that can result in the pump arm rubbing through the case; in this video I discuss this issue and show you how to address it by modifying the pump arm.
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Thanks!
Scott - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Looks like you lucked out on that transfer case and found one in great shape. We all need a little good luck once in a while.
Hi Roy - Yes, I got lucky on this one. It's about time! Thanks, Scott
Great work Scott. I’ve had two of these cases in old ford Diesels and they have always been reliable. Leaky? Yes. I’m about to pull the rear slip yoke off mine to install a new bushing and reseal so this is a huge help and mental refresher.
Happy to help, Aaron! Thanks for the comment, Scott
Thanks Scott gained a subscriber thought this was going to be a nightmare you made it look easy very informative to the T now to work on the bronco 😅
Welcome aboard, Ramon! This is indeed a fairly easy job. Good luck with it, Scott
Scott, very detailed how to do it on the rebuild. Following your instructions, any one can rebuild one of these cases.
All of your videos are excellent. I follow your rebuilt of the truck on the forums..
Thanks for the kind words, Charlie! Scott
Thanks for the video, but i think you made a mistake with the speedometer gear. The gear drops on first, with the slot for the bearing facing out. drop in the ball bearing, and slide the gear up, then put the clip in behind it. This will keep the gear in place. The way you put it on, there is nothing keeping it from waling off sir. All in all this video really helped me with my rebuild and work out pump arm.
Thanks for the input! Scott
Always wondered what the inside of a transfer case looked like! Now I know!! Thanks for another insightful video Scott!
Thanks for the comment, Mr. Breeze! Scott
Glad to see it! I'm learning a lot! Thanks for bringing us along!
Thanks, Michael! Good to hear from you again, Scott
The blind hole bearing- I would have packed it full of grease and made a pilot to hydraulically push the bearing out. Great content so far, can't wait for the grand reveal!!
Yep, that would have worked, too. Thanks
Congrats on your 25th episode, another great video. You’ve inspired me to do the same to my BW1356.
Thanks, Will! It's not a difficult task!!! Scott
Using seal and race drivers to install bearings, turn the driver over so the taper faces up. This makes sure you don’t hit the inner race separate from the outer race.
Thanks for the input! Scott
Love it, Scott!
Thanks!
Thanks, Nicolas! Scott
I'm really enjoying the build, keep up the good work
Thanks, William! Scott
3/8" threads in steel about 30 ft lbs in alluminum 20-25
Make sure you get the pickup tube and filter secure I've seen em flopping around and loose. All the best Sir.
Thanks, @ELDIABLO444!
Great build.
Thanks, Alex!
I was wondering what I might get into when doing the oil pump mod. I have a low mileage (
Hi salans7 - Hope yours is at least as clean as mine was! Good luck with the rebuild, Scott
Nice
Thanks
There are pry point provisions on each of the long ends of the case. Specifically for well sealed cases. I’m willing to guess this case was never apart. At a minimum I would have replaced the chain.
Thanks for the input. Scott
Thanks buddy! Ill be doing that pump mod for sure!
You're welcome!
Thanks for taking the time..
You're welcome! Scott
The splinted rubber washer is the driveshaft plug. It seals the full transfer case until the assembly line when they push the driveshaft on. It sits in the output shaft seal. Not sure though, but what held the speedometer gear from moving backwards on the shaft?
Thanks for the info! Scott
Hei Scott thanks!
You're welcome DM! Scott
Thanks
You're welcome!
All right just so everybody knows you can drill a 1/8 inch hole thread a screw self Tapper or whatever into that hole and he's a dent puller and it comes right out you have to keep in mind that you don't want to drill into anything important the whole thing is metal angle to drill to the center of the hole we're center of the shaft if it was in it insert your screw and then smack it with the dent puller
Thanks for the input!
Cool rebuild but you put the speedo dive gear backwards should have put speedo gear on with the slot opening facing rear ward drop ball-bearing in hole slide gear backwards then band snap sleeve now gear can't walk backwards
Thanks for the correction! I'll know better next time. Scott
Opened up my BW1356 today it was running without a pump assembly. The side is worn all the way where the pump would rub the case if it were installed. Seeking options at this point, I know I can rebuild this with ease just no luck with this case.
I'd source another unit. These aren't super difficult to find or very expensive, either. Good luck with it! Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE I went from the worst of luck to the best! I stopped by the junk yard today and you would not believe it. The last truck I looked up under was the only truck with a transfer case and it was a BW1356. Best part was it was already cut out by someone else and they must have left that gold egg there for me. Nice bright red ATF pour out the case and I knew it was well maintained. I stripped it down at home. Case isn't worn through much at all, pump was in there and the planetary gear is rock solid while my original was broken. Great day $65 later and saving over $600 if I had course used parts if not more.
@@1PrudentPatriot - Excellent news! Glad to hear that it worked out for you!!! Scott
Thanks for the video, was going to just throw some new seals on a t-case I bought on eBay but after watching your vid I checked the oil pump arm slot and found it work about 80% through. Doing the pump mod now per your method. Did a little searching and saw most guys are using a piece of round stock for the mod but I like using the flat a bit better. Probably doesn’t make too much of a difference in the long run but if you’re going through the trouble why not do it right?
Glad to hear that you found the video helpful! Scott
So much work! Is your hourly rate like mine? Minus 8.00 per hour would be a raise? 😂
Randy - If it was only minus $8/hour I'd be doing well, but I think it's going to be a lot worse than that!!!
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE that’s why i said -8.00 per hour would be a raise!
@@randysrestoration Yep, I hate it when I realize how much $ and time I have invested in something that I end up selling!
Why not upgrade to something like a NP205?
I wanted to keep it in the factory configuration. Thanks
Hello Scott Love your video I am new to this OBS Ford I have some questions do you have time to helo Thanks
Michael - Happy to help, but CZcams isn't the best place for back and forth tech questions. I'd recommend you go to www.oilburners.net/forums/6-9l-ih-7-3l-idi-diesels.34/ for any IDI tech questions. For non-IDI tech your best bet are the ford-trucks forums - www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum117/ Good luck! Scott
What kind of fluid goes in there.The Mercon V says dont put it in transfer cases I think?.
I put the expensive stuff in it - torqueking.com/product/90046/qu90046-transfer-case-fluid/
Whats the cheap stuff?@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE
As far as the front output seal. If the shaft is out, raise one edge of the flange with a screwdriver and completely cave the seal in towards its center at that point. What holds them in so well is the paint on the seal body. It’s a glue and a sealant. If the shaft is still in it then other methods must be used. Those seal removers are, disappointing. Mine looks just like yours does. Not a very well thought out tool.
Thanks for the input! Scott