How to Tear Down an F-Series & Bronco BW1356 Transfer Case for Rebuild by
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
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Hey Everyone, thanks for watching. Be sure to check out what's happening with this truck nowadays. I'm completely rebuilding it from the ground up. You can follow this link for the playlist. Thanks!
czcams.com/play/PLHRSPnh4bEkx3DBhC0MNVElRx1hxOu952.html
That snap ring is tough to get out but doable. I spent about 45 min on it and eventually got it. What worked for me was to just spread it apart as far as possible while applying downward pressure. It walked itself up on the back side. I did stuff a large towel up underneath to take the pressure of though. A towel my wife was kind enough to donate to the garage.
Also, I can't tell you how many times I used a shop press during this process. Worth mentioning if you want to replace all the bearings and seals. Also, I cleaned it in solvent and repainted it. This 22 year old TC is good as new.
Regardless, I couldn't have done this without your help so thank you, sir. Also worth mentioning, clean the casing and internals of all "crud" for lack of a better term. You don't want metal bits in your new bearings.
Speaking of which, I found a visual inspection really wasn't a good idea in my case. Bearings looked fine but when pressed out the barely spun and hit quite a few snags that stopped them. I assume they where gummed up with metal bits.
What a great comment! Excellent feedback and suggestions for future viewers. All great advice. I will eventually get myself a shop press.
I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!
@@GettinJunkDone When I do jobs like this sheet I always have a case of beer and a few packs of gummy bears... The gummy bears help when gritting your teeth if you're older it helps. The beer does the rest of the job at least for me.
Excellent video! well illustrated. I appreciate you sharing the problems you encountered.
For anyone who hasn't done this job yet for that last snap ring that's hard to get I used a set of needle nose pliers to separate it and then slipped a punch in there to hold it. After that use a curved pick to help hold the end up so it doesn't slip back in and lightly tap the punch around and it'll pop out super easy. Once I figured this out it only took me maybe 5 minutes to get the snap ring out. Good luck guys!👍 Also a little hint is to keep a clear mind while you do this. If your frustrated it'll never come out.
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I was able to get that elusive snap ring of the planetary side but it was a bugger. I ended up buying a Wilde Tool G409P Angle Tip Lock Ring 9” Pliers that has enough reach and strength to squeeze open and pull up with the help of a pick. With the right tool it was about 5-10 mins. Thank you BTW for the awesome videos for this 1356. I couldn’t have done it without them and the write up on Full Size Bronco.
Thank you for your video. Im working on a 4406 and it looks very similar. Just want to maybe swap in a new chain make sure gears etc look good and change the seals. This gave me a good look ahead. Thanks.
Excellent Video. Great commentary, thanks very much!
Thank you very much!
Oh ya , sure good to know about those stubborn snap-rings , especially the one that you made those allen wrench extentions . I am going to look online etc to see what I can find for this .
Its cool to see the older version of the things i build at work (i work at borg warner)
Good job of explaining everything.
Thanks!
Excellent video sir, I learned a lot! I have this 96 F-150 with play on the drive shaft, about an inch gap if I rock the drive shaft back and forth. I’m not sure if it’s the transfer case or the transmission itself. When I place the truck in Drive or Reverse it clunks, but then it drives fine and it’s driving me nuts! (NPI)
For anyone else fighting this snap ring, you need to go buy “lock ring pliers” not snap ring pliers. I got a pair at my local oreiley’s for like $18, and they literally got the ring out on the very first attempt.
That is excellent information! Thanks for the comment.
I'm an A&P off a Navy Ship and I was about to comment on that topic not many people know the diff between the 2 tools. I actually hit a similar situation and I even had the tools just I was like fighting the job said the heck with it 4 the rest of the day. As I was waking up to the problem next morning cup of coffee in had I opened the drawer and then the light bulb came back on. As you age sometimes your own bodily switches just don't work right no more. Perhaps it was the turbo charger fluid in my cup? I had never used the lock ring pliers but for one single job maybe 15 years prior on an old Lawn Tractor. So it laid in my box in its place until I remembered I even had one.
Hello from Northern Canada ,
Joe I own a 1993 Ford F-350 4x4 with the same 1356 Borg Warner transfer , except with the factory pto cover ... only came on the F-350 ' s
Anyways I'm pretty sure the tear down & reassembly would be very close , if not exact to this on of yours .
I really enjoyed watching this & other video's of yours just on how well they were presented .... well done my friend 😊
Thanks again Joe for sharing this very detailed video . Even though I have the original Ford shop /service manuals for my truck , this video sure gave me the heads up with what will all be involved when i rebuild mine .
+faronf2006 that's great to hear! I'm glad that it was of some help! Thanks for watching.
Hey Joe, when you pulled the shaft out, there was a small ball over the bearing on the shaft which held on to the bearing. I didn't see that your in your video. I also did not see the two ends in the spring. They seem to be part of the case. I can send you pictures if it helps. Please let me know.
Order Imperial Tool part # IR-601R for that stubborn lock ring..Pricy but they worked great worth every penny..Like $32.00! Freeze your bearings heat the case evenly to good and warm with a torch and drop those bearings right in! You might need an small internal puller for those needle bearings 4wd output shaft in case, i have and used a cheap harbor freight press for planetary bushing and needle bearings cup.
Thanks for the video. Helpful with considering whether to rebuild or just go with a re-maunufactured case.
I've got a 95 f350 and there is a terrible cracking noise that happens in 4 wheel drive. Its not u joints, I'm about certain its in the transfer case. Perhaps its related the that triangular piece of steel you referenced as a common failure point.?
Very well could be that component, unfortunately there’s only one way to find out.
Hi from Alberta, Can someone please helpppppp, I have a 2009 Escalade ext awd, I have to sun gears seems like only 1 will fit at a time is there a trick to get the suns on.?
Can anyone link to the circlip pliers that hold the allen keys?
I've got a plastic gear on the rear output shaft that drives the speedometer and don't see it in your video. Mine spins free, don't see any kind of spline meant to keep it attached to the shaft hence my speedometer doesn't work. A drill on the cable and the speedometer works so I am thinking the gear is not meant to be loose. Any thoughts? Also with the tail house cover off I can turn the shaft 120 degrees then feel it click and get resistance doing it in both directions. restoring an 88 F-250 with the heavy duty suspension and never had a 4wd ford but I am wondering if this is normal and if I need to drive a bit in reverse a bit like I do in my 1985 K20 suburban.Nice channel. faved it.
Nkt sure if you figured it out in the last year, but there is a small ball that sits halfway in a recess on the shaft and halfway into the plastic gear
If you have issues with you BW1356, you can just pull the rear cover off, and inspect. If there is problems other
Than planetary, you can do repairs, and then reassemble.
Im thinking on that last snap ring, the weight of the shaft pushing down against it is working against you. Maybe find something small, fist-sized, and set it on the bench,,then set the case half over that so that the shaft rests on something and gives you a little bit of wiggle room on the clip?
Not a bad idea! I'll have to try that next time.
Gettin' Junk Done is there gonna be one.?lol
Gotta question...a no money question if you will, gotta a 1356 that is stuck in low 4x4 ...could I false case it: take off the chain or....
Same song in the Off the Ranch video's opening threw me off a bit at first but great video .
Anyone know the part number for that first snap ring ??
i have a question for u all i have a 95 bronco with a electric shift i want to put a manual shift in it can i do this it has the 5.0 motor and e40d trans will a Borg Warner 1356 transfer case fit thanks guys
or what kind of transfer case should i use i want a manual shift
Is it possible to remove the chain and have rwd still?
To be honest, I'm not sure, but if my memory of the internals is correct, I think that might work.
I just burned one of these up i dont know if its repairable
I don't understand why so many people have trouble with snap rings.
I think you ground your pliers backwards, if the flat are was facing out, it would grab better.
Nice work, but I sure cringed when you were grinding on your homemade snap ring pliers with all your freshly disassembled parts right there. Hot fragments coming off the grinder can and will attach themselves to metal parts.
You're absolutely right. That is something I've learned the hard way since posting this video. You live, and learn.
I got the case apart without removing the snap ring. Dont ask me how lol
Hey bro you forgot to show how the speedo gear comes off.
buy a pair of lock ring pliers ..........makes life easy
Good suggestion.
There is a huge difference between a snap ring and a lock ring, you needed lock ring pliers to get the input shaft lock ring out.
Watching🙁
Not sure what you mean. No context to your comment.
This may be a late comment but there are duckbilled or flat ended snap ring pliers sold by Snap On, Matco, Mac, Craftsman ect. You guys don't think a professional wrench would sit and fight with those do you. Any snap ring with sharp ends like that uses a flat end snap ring pliers. They are not a secret as all forms of vehicles use them including quads, bikes you name it.
why would anyone want a chain driven tcase???
Because they last forever?
So, why don't they make better lock ring pliers?? I've broken more tips on supposed "heavy duty" pliers. the interchangeable tips suck, are too weak and can't perform their intended function. Seems like there is a market waiting to be served.
They are my kryptonite.
Why did you post this video?
To show how to tear down a BW1356 transfer case for rebuild.
Why did you make this comment?