Replacing GM 6.5 Diesel Injectors - Knock Fixed? [C3500HD Part 2]
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- čas přidán 17. 03. 2020
- I replace the diesel fuel injectors on the GM 6.5 diesel engine in my project truck to try fixing an engine knock that occurs at one half the engine RPM.
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![Installing $50 JUNKYARD Leather Seats into my GMC Truck [C3500HD Part 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eYDzMvfba0E/mqdefault.jpg)
![Installing $50 JUNKYARD Leather Seats into my GMC Truck [C3500HD Part 3]](/img/tr.png)
![Diagnosing GM 6.5 Diesel Engine Knock [C3500HD Part 4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rVkKx_XTICE/mqdefault.jpg)
Found this channel today, I guess I’ll be binge watching this weekend.
Wow, thank you for watching!
I'm watching this series for the second time. What a great feeling it must have been to have this repair be so successful.
“I’m not gonna film that because let’s be honest, it wouldn’t be family friendly” 🤣🤣🤣🤣 honest!! 🤦🏻♂️🇺🇸
I respect you for trying to work with what you have but I respect you more for putting the engine/trans combo in that you did. Great job Waldo!
It’s fun to go back to these early video and see how your channel has developed over the years
Just found this channel and man you are a hidden gem!
Wow, thank you! 🤩
Love your videos man! I hope your channel grows a ton!
Thanks for the effort in making your content, it’s informative, enjoyable and a pleasure to watch. The battery knife switch is really old school / Frankenstein-ish……more power Igor!
I own one of these for years use it for towing a 19-ft aluminum rollback very reliable truck everything broke on the truck eventually except the engine kept running all the way up to about 700,000 MI before I sold it one of the practical diesel engines out there she sure is a keeper
Wow, very cool! A rollback like that would be handy to have for fetching new projects 🤔
Thats a nice runner! 18 years ago, i put a 6.5 diesel in my Chevy Nova
Oh wow, that sounds like a cool swap!
That would be neat to see for sure🤗 I had a '74👍
I just bought a 1995 Chevy 6.5 2500 with this same problem thank you for the help! 🙏🏽
Your videos are very well done. I enjoy watching them. 🤗
The easiest way to check for injector knock is to check the oil.
The oil will have a much higher amount of fuel in it than a good engine .
Checking the level before and after an hour of running may be an indicator if a lot of fuel is able to bypass the rings in that time(enough to see a change in the level at least)
The C3500HD's are also my favorite class 4 truck. I think in the end, going with the Cummins is the best choice, especially, with Waldo's great welding skills...big savings!
Yeah, I can't think of a class 4 truck that I'd rather have than a C3500HD!
Yep, Waldo either got lucky or did his research... I choose to believe the later! The truck itself is a tank 14K-16k gvwr without the competitors pitfalls. The 6.5 was a light duty diesel, whereas the Cummins 5.9 liter is an industrial engine(medium duty w/500,000 mile; b50 rating, meaning 50% will last a half million miles or longer. Waldo has my attention because, he's chosen the optimum path for this project/a perfect "bullet proof" upgrade to this exceptional truck! They truly, don't make them like that anymore. PS I'm not sure about his choice of gearbox, but Eaton Fuller is the go too for class 7 and 8 semi trucks, therefore, I'm guessing his choice for this project is superior to other options, ie. NV4500.?
@@marcdargitz2949 8.3 Is the medium duty. 5.9 is an industrial engine, it was designed for excavator hydraulic pumps. Dodge got a crazy idea because someone decided to shove it in the pickup.
The 3500 is marketed as a class 3 truck, overload springs push it into class 4 but that is the market for Kodiak and TopKick which is why they were 4500, 5500, 6500 and 7500 respectively.
Eaton and Fuller are separate in the class 8 truck world, Dana, Daimler, ZF Friedrichshafen, BorgWarner and Spicer still have their product as well and we still use and install, rebuild and repair many of them. Eaton owns Fuller now yes, but they market transmissions as separate product lines.
@@marcdargitz2949 in terms of the NV4500 - at least from the commercial standpoint - most of us share the opinion that it’s an automotive transmission. They’re easily destroyed by many commercial applications. The NV5600 isn’t much better, but for a synchronized gearbox you don’t have to pay the price for either that you would pay for an Eaton Synchro 5 or Synchro 6 which made them favorable.
These are so easy to work on... wish cars and trucks were still like this today
I totally agree! I've also worked on German cars, a V8 Audi S4 being the worst example, and they're a pain to work on
That's why I drive a 6.5 c3500 in germany.
gotta do a compression test once infectors are out. Those 6.5 are known to crack between valves as well as main web which you'll be filling crankcase with coolant. Seems you solved the issues with a cummins so 2 thumbs up good choice
Im going to purchase a 98 Chevy with the 6.5 today the guy said it wasn’t showing any pressure and was going through a lot of coolant I wonder if it was the valves cracking?
Certainly much better , great video , not as bad as a engine change as you say , had similar problem on a citeron truck , keep up great videos will be watching for more !!
Thanks, I'm looking forward to driving it!
Nice work! I just changed my injector return lines with the turbo in place. Not family friendly is right lol! Cool to see we have same trucks and same dog. I love my Vizsla!
Oh nice! And yeah, vizslas are the best!
It'd be nice if you included your music playlist in the description below.
I really liked the first time as you were taking out the battery and turbocharger.
That said time to return to watching another facinating vid of you diagnosing the problem with your truck.
Hey Waldo; I just got one of these today. Also a '95, 6.5 TD, NV4500. I drove it about 150 miles home, and it did great.
Mine was a bucket truck. The crane is gone but it still has the utility bed.
Oh nice, congrats! Mine was also a bucket truck, though I wish mine came with the NV4500 instead of the 4L80.
@@WaldosWorld Yeah. I saw a crew cab for sale a couple weeks ago, but it sold while I was still thinking about it. It had the automatic.
I have a 12 valve Cummins I'll probably put in it eventually, but I plan to run the 6.5 as long as it still runs well.
Young man you have a ton of talent.
Thank you!
This video has helped me out. I recently rebuilt my 2.4L toyota IDI diesel as as I was seating the rings, it started knocking. It was kinda intermittent but I'm sure its faulty injectors now. Mine also smokes like yours and is hard to start.
Love it ..
Peace n love from Cumbria UK 🇬🇧 ❤
Awesome video thanks for showing how to get in there. great detail thanks so much
Thank you!
Those old 3500hd's are the coolest looking work trucks of the 90s
I know, right?! I love the lower grille in particular 👌
awesome job man!!!
Thanks!
Late to the party. Refreshing to hear honesty, meaning the family friendly comment. Had to chuckle cuz I'm X rated changing a fuse.. great vijayo, and just happen to be working on a 6.5 myself. Thanks
when replacing injectors, one trick is to do one side, get it started, then do the other side
Wow big difference 👌👍 great vid
Thanks!
Very nice video! You did everything by the book, nice to see a youngster do it right without short cuts.
Thank you! 🤠
I love those c/k hd trucks
Me too! 😂 I can't wait until mine is painted and on the road 😎
We used to have a fleet of these bucket trucks. I was glad to see them go. So now we have the Ford v-10s which suck also.
Great video
In studying carefully would it be possible to do the injectors without removing the intake? It almost appears that injector lines could be manipulated with the intake in place
I have had numerous issues with my 93 6.5 turbo. One of them is the knocking like you had, which I had no idea what it could be, but a bad injector sounds like that may have been it. I had already decided to change all the injectors and purchased them along with a new rebuilt injector pump as I believe it was causing my issue with not wanting to start after running and shut down. It would start right after I stopped it, but if I waited about 10 to 15 minutes it wouldn't start to it was cold again or I dumped cold water on the IP. Was told the pump probably was worn. The water pump was chattering and I believe I had issues with power steering pump. So I removed the whole front clip and stripped down the top and front of the engine. I replace the water pump, which when that was removed gave great access to the bolts attached to the injector pump, which I installed before putting the new water pump back and changed the power steering pump. I'm just about at a point that I can try and start it and see if I got rid of all the bugs, at least the ones I mentioned. Just waiting on new heater hoses and a couple engine oil cooling line fittings and I will be giving it a whirl.
It's a good feeling when you've fixed a bunch of stuff on your truck! 🤠
I have decided to do the exact same thing to my '99 K3500.
The entire front clip and everything else you named I'm doing in my driveway in addition to some other stuff.
Why swap another engine in? The 6.5's are good engines, no powerhouse but they were never meant to be. We have plenty 6.5's with over 400.000 miles on them over here in europe. I once owned a C2500 with the 6.5, 441.000 miles, ran like new
Wow, that's a lot of miles! I was mostly looking forward to a swap because I think it would be fun, not to mention it would make good content. As for the power/torque, I'll certainly give this engine a chance!
@@WaldosWorld if you do rip that 6.5 mill out, sell it. Don't scrap it. These motors are great for swapping because they're modular and fit in where a 350 Chevy would
No, definitely wouldn't scrap it. I'd save it and rebuild it for use in another project at some point. It would be great in an application where a ton of power isn't needed.
Thanks for sharing your experience with the 6.5. I've been researching on line and apparently GM blocks are inherintly weak due to poor iron content and too fast of casting process..just what the consensus is for so many blocks cracking. I'm hoping the truck I'm buying this week, which is a late 2000 will have a long life.. currently 168k. 400k sounds really nice!
That's my all time favorite truck! hoping to find one soon. I'd replace the engine w/P400 6.5! It's the best 6.5 the best of my knowlege
Oh nice! They sure are great trucks. Whenever I see one on the road I can't help but exclaim "Ooh look, an HD!" 😂
I have one for sale
@@lifeastruggle8600 for how much
Great series! I just finished watching the Dynohoe series !! I sure hope you'll do some updates with the Dynahoe when you have a chance. Id love to see it moving some dirt and doing some serious work!
Sounded great after the new injectors
Thanks, yeah it definitely helped!
I bought a 2001 Chevy 3500 hd but it has a 8.1 vortec and Allison 5spd automatic. It was love at first sight 😂
Question? When you put back the Turbo was that just red paint you was spraying?
Great video, lol on the “not family friendly “
I try to keep it family friendly 😂
Wish I knew about that line socket when I did head gaskets on my nephews 6.5
I have the same truck with a dump bed. I’m gonna put a Wicked Wheel in the turbo and a manual boost controller and see how it does. Lil under $300 in parts and 30min install. Another guy has a video where he got almost 15 pounds of boost. I pull my 12000 pound boat with mine and going up hill it definitely could use more power. Good luck! Keep up the cool videos!
Nice! Do you know how much boost they have stock? I've never had a boost gauge on mine (at least not yet)
@@WaldosWorld stock is between 4-8 pounds I believe. Be careful with to much boost, you’ll blow a head gasket. Also if you go over about 10 psi without a chip, it’ll sense an overboost and go into limp mode until you shut it off for a minute. I wouldn’t go over 12 pounds of boost without head studs.
Check glow plugs and glow plug relay as well as remove and replace lift pump and delete your vacuum pump .its a super nice motor if you un engineer the flaws gm engineered into it
How do you delete the vacuum pump? Do you know of any videos that teach it?
You will need to get another belt to take up the slack i can get you the number its only like a 25.00 serpentine belt i cut my vacuum lines and took the line out , it is only used to hold your wastegate closed which is a colossal waste it takes power to run extra pulleys , you can purchase a manual spring actuated wastegate or close the wastegate using carbuerator return springs . i found some springs that gave me about 3psi more boost i just cut my vacuum actuator open in the middle and hung my springs off it and then through my wastegate to close it, 3psi realliy isnt colossal but i noticed a difference . I took my alternator out and it made it easier to get to the bolts on the vacuum pump it was a while ago when i took it out but it was like 4 13mm bolts if i recall might have been a little bigger like 15 but i think they were 13mm i unbolted it after cutting the vacuum line and it came right out. Theres a few different length belts you can use. Ill check mine its like 1mm shorter than what was recommended so its a bit tighter. You might get a code for wastegate cause your vacuum will send a message low boost vac pressure but its going to be fine. Its actually good to see a check engine light on in these trucks ill tell you why, you want to worry if they go out , if your light goes out and you know you have something like this wrong it means your ecu/computer is not properly recieving information so im fine with it knowing what is actually wrong and seeing a check engine light. Its telling me my computer is working.
Go check out some of jesse pelkeys videos as well im a good friend he has some good info on these 6.5s on there. This truck has pissed me off more than once but it would cost me 60 to 80k dollars to go buy a brand new comperable diesel.
@@stevenbean9706 yea my check engine light came on after it started hesitating. It lacks allot of power. I'm going to change the oil pressure sensor, intake, glow plug relay, remove the exhaust/cat, replace the wastegate, pcv etc. I checked my fuel tank, changed the lift pump, removed the fuel sock, added an inline wix filter, changed the fuel filter, replaced the glow plugs, etc. It felt fine, but 10 minutes down the street it started hesitating and lost power. Then a code came on about timing.
@@stevenbean9706 the thing is, people say it can be many things, like a stupid sensor.
Most mechanics I know would have a very non family friendly conversation with an engineer because they always make things extremely difficult to fix
I thought i saw a vacuum actuator on the turbo waste gate lever. I also didnt see a vacuum pump on your 93 where does the 6
Thanks! I think there's a belt-driven vacuum pump mounted on the upper right side of the engine, though the mounting location varies based on whether or not there's an AC compressor mounted from the factory
Hey we're does it map sensor vacuum line go cause can't figure out were to put mine I have same setup ? U be a life saver man!
Have you try 2 add some 2-stroke oil in the fuel? It can lube the needles in the injectors. Some say bio-diesel will make them run more softly. I have also sometime fuel up with some "clean-diesel" you can buy some places and the engine behave like a rattlesnake...
As an engineer you ever work on anything and think to yourself "What the hell were these engineers thinking ? They should try working on there own crap"
My 99 has smoke on start too, but goes away after I rev the engine. I've been told glow plugs or injectors. Or even the IP. Did yours disappear if you reved it?
New subscriber just watching all your videos. Love the gadsden flag in the background.
With the injector socket with a wrench i change mine with turbo on. Either way great video!
Thank you!
You must have stayed at a Holiday Inn. Seriously that was good.
I didn't know you could take the wheel well liner out without taking the tire off first
Mine had sat for three years, but i accidentally cross threaded one of the injectors, so mine knocks a little on whayever cylinder goes after the one that doesn't fire at all due to the fuel line not sitting right and spraying fuel everywhere. Anyway, there was some blue smoke coming from one of the exhaust pipes for maybe 10 minutes before it cleared after sitting. May be as simple as that in some cases
Does it white smoke to?? I change injectors in mine it's white smoking
You should do a video on how you painted the frame
Mine was doing this but now it smokes horribly and even went into limp mode is it this?
Just did the same job. Leave the turbo in Take the inner fender out and you can get the back one no problem
Thanks for the tip. I also found out that removing the intake manifold probably wasn't necessary even though the service manual called for it.
@@WaldosWorld I was scanning the comment section to see if someone said something about the intake not needing to come off lol and also the rear injector
@@therealbenavis Yeah, my repair manual said to take the intake manifold off. I would've saved quite a bit of time if I had left it on 😂
How long did you krank it before it started
Probably silly to ask but, U still got that turbo?
I like your videos a lot Waldo, but what kind of dog is that? It looks like a lab and a lot like a German Short Haired Retriever to me but it is such a sleek dog and I love to see it in your videos.
How come you had to remove the intake if only changing the injectors?
Ohhh nevermind. I went back and watched again.
I see the GM engineers thought it would be a good idea to put the injector lines under the intake. Perfect
Less annoying music.....more commentary while working. I kept turning the volume down then missed you making few comments.
I appreciate the feedback! I'm constantly trying to improve my editing
Sounds good
Thanks!
@@WaldosWorld do I still have that motor
U sorry
Chec fuel injector timing. Thanks
I did not see you torque the intake down. Was that for video length or you figured the batt operated gun was good enough.
I think I just used the driver. I don't know if there's a numeric torque spec, but I opted for a handful of ugga-duggas instead 😂
That's calibrated finger torque bud. Dont you have it?
Just a thought for anyone else doing this spend the extra few dollars and put new glow plugs behind the turbo while it's out and accessible even if you just do 2 behind it or all 4 on that side will save some time later
these injectors going out make such a nasty sound too. i thought i lost a few lifters or something but it was just really really old injectors with 300k on them
My 6.2 gets injector knock every six months on the same cylinder...I gave up replacing injector sets and just started replacing that injector when it gets loud.
I have a 8.9 l cummins in my motorhome. I came back from a trip and filled the tank and about 2 miles into my drive home I started to hear the same noise your truck was making. It starts up but runs rough. I'm assuming it is the injectors. You think I would be ok to drive it 8 miles to my mechanic or would it be better to have it towed?
It's probably okay to drive it 8 miles, especially if it's just an injector
My 6.5 is knocking when I hit the accelerator, any ideas? Any thoughts or reply’s back would be greatly appreciated!
Cheap diesel truck to fix but isnt a good power house but get relatively good milage
How long did this take you?
That a valve i had the same problem but mine was a intake on the passenger head
Give the old 6.5 a chance I have the same truck lol with a 14ft service body on it
Oh nice! Is it an HD with the 6.5?
I've got a wrecker that's an HD with a 12v cummins in it.
Should build a dump bed for it never seen hand built dump truck paint it red to match itdbe sweeeet
FYI, install Turbo 1st, upper plenum second.
👍👍
I just put brand new injectors into my motor and have one stuck injector on pass side so it doesn't only happen to the old stuff
did it take along time to start after you changed the injectors
No, I was surprised by how quickly it started. I guess not much air entered the fuel system 🤷♂️
@@WaldosWorld It does have a lift pump! check out Leroy Diesel's CZcams channel for all upgrades and hacks for performance
I have a 1998 gmc 3500 and I have the same problem, I cahge the injectors like in the video but the problem is not fixed 😢😢😢
I’m doing this injector change currently. What pound did you torque them to?
Looks like the spec is 50 ft-lb
@@WaldosWorld yes it is! This engine was my life until they aged out all the 6.5 school buses. Now it’s the last of the Caterpillars, Cummins 5.9 through ISX and the old two stroke Detroit when I can find them.
It’s nice to see someone working on one. Although I admittedly did just find your Cummins swap.
It’s at piston speed because mine had the same exact sound
Well done. Seem to know your way around a wrench. What’s your story?
Thanks! I'm self taught. My wrenching started out of necessity when I was a poor high schooler. Now it's more of a hobby, but I'm still learning.
to my knowledge you can send an oil sample to have it analyzed and should be able to find out where issue comes from ?
That's a good point! I know they could detect a bearing issue, and possible other issues too
You can, and we used to oil sample them for fleets. If you can afford to do it through a reputable lab that will tell you anything meaningful beyond whether or not to change the oil, you can afford to buy a brand new truck every year in cash as well. It’s a great idea, but you can rebuild a 6.5 for under $3,000, time included.
Wow never seen a factory GMT 400 without a life support unit (air conditioning)
Hahaha I'll be retrofitting a life support unit in a future video, because it's kind of a big deal 😂
I never saw them with it. I was convinced they didn’t exist until 2010. Nobody buys that option where I live.
Did you had to bled the system? I’m going on do the same thing on my truck
I think I cracked open one or two of the easy-to-reach injector lines and then cranked the engine over until fuel came out. It was pretty fast since the fuel didn't have far to travel
Thank you for getting back to me . I don’t how weld may be one day you do a video for us to learn . Greetings from New York
Great info . NO MUSIC PLEASE ! It interferes with everything. If i turn it down to not hear the music crap, then I miss out when you start talking !!
Everyone knocking a 6.5 lol, 6.5 Detroit Diesel is actually a great engine once all the crap GM engineers done is undone. The U.S. Military uses them,, tons of Marine applications.
Love the flag in the background if you cant tell by my profile already lol
There it is. So you are a moron "Waldo." LOL
@@henrythe83rd18 hello bozo
@@psd28 LOL
these 6.5td knocks. Mine has been knocking for 300.000km
sounds like timing is advance too far. Maybe sloppy timing chain.
Wow, good ear! The timing chain is actually quite loose!
I rebuild these engines at a army depot for humvees. Always match injectors. To the injector pump. We replace the heads 100% these engines where built for fuel economy not big horsepower
They’re also incredibly derated regardless which HMMWV variant from the original 6.2 through NA and turbocharged 6.5. It’s sad.
The derate causes them to get worse mileage in a HMMWV than the 1 ton with a 4L80 trans towing 15,000 lbs.
You did not have to take intake off waste of time I really can’t believe you took it off the lines move after you losen from injector
You seem such a nice guy, why do you have a 'no step on snek' flag behind you ? Wtf
He should of turned on the key and bled the injector lines before starting.
Just curious. Any reason you chose red to paint frame?
Yeah, I thought it would look good when you get a glimpse of it underneath the body. The idea came from a C3500HD that was featured on Truck Trend 👌
@@WaldosWorld cool. I just didn’t know if I was missing a detail. Like the Detroit being painted the OE color.
I would rebuild the motor cause that's a good motor 6 finds got a lot of power and it's a very good motor I'll rebuild it and make it brand new. S that's what I did mine