Diagnosing GM 6.5 Diesel Engine Knock [C3500HD Part 4]
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- čas přidán 1. 04. 2020
- I pull the oil pan to take a look at the bottom end of this GM 6.5 turbo diesel engine to see if I can find the cause of the engine knock.
Instagram: / waldowelds
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![Cummins Swapping a GMC C3500HD - Pulling the Engine From a Dodge RAM [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gh8uw5x8MfI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cummins Swapping a GMC C3500HD - Pulling the Engine From a Dodge RAM [Part 1]](/img/tr.png)
You really need an ace/ox tourch to heat bolts before attempting to remove. Also loosen/ tighten back and forth like a taping operation to avoid breaking them.
Love your stuff!
Another amazing well produced video absolute pleasure to watch , and yes just shows how difficult a five minute job goes extended to the point of disspare , can't wait for next episode though !!
Thanks, I can't wait for the next video too!
Just found your channel and being the proud owner of a 94 K2500 6.5, I was immediately sucked into the black hole of the 6.5 universe and watched your series. These motors can be built to tow heavy but requires modifications that may not be cost effective. The biggest problem that I have seen, since the purchase of mine new, is the lack of simple maintenance. Mine has low mileage and suffers zero blow by. I also have made most of the mods that have plagued this platform since its design. Will anxiously await your next update on what you decide to do. 👍
Thanks and welcome to the channel! That's awesome that you've had a 6.5 since new. I don't think the maintenance on mine has been stellar. I'm filming the next video in the series today...it's an exciting one! There'll probably be a picture on Instagram (@WaldoWelds).
@@WaldosWorld Instagram? My cell is a flip style and my newest vehicle is a 2003 model. Still getting used to the idea that points are no longer needed in a tune-up. I could use some exciting as long as it's not too exciting. Looking forward to it.
Hahaha I hear you! 👍
I've got a 94 k3500 crew cab dually 5 speed. I've not owned it long but plan to fix it up since I love the body style.
As to someone who owns a 6.5 with that many miles you need to be really mindful of the the harmonic balancer these things are common for going out and can cause catastrophic damage to the crankshaft they can also add a knocking noise to the motor to make you think it’s a rod knock when really it’s the balancer great video on the 6.5 keep them coming
Thanks for the tip! In my case, the sound appears to be coming from inside the engine. I'll probably replace the balancer when I rebuild the engine just for preventative maintenance.
It Is The Balancer, Just Changed Mine & I thought the same thing, it’s not inside the engine, But I love your videos
What am i missing ? You drilled a hole in the sump almost next to where the sump drain plug threads in, why not use the drain plug hole ?
You know, that's a good point. It's been a while, so I don't remember if I had a reason to drill a hole vs. use the drain plug hole 🤷♂️
Possibly didn't want to mess up the threads on the drain plug whole? That's the only thing I could think of
@@cat740dt That has to be it....because that is likely what would happen.
@@WaldosWorld lmfao. Wat.
My first thought also.
Dude, you are fearless. I’ve been watching with amazement
Great video and a clever solution on that oil pan. That engine would make a really nice generator, once refreshed👍👍
A generator! That's a good idea! 👍
Call Leroy’s diesel he has everything you need to repair you 6.5 plus he can help you with all you needs and questions. He really helped me through the 6.5 workings 👍
Thanks for the tip! I checked out the website. I'll be back once I start rebuilding this thing.
Waldo's World excellent can’t wait keep up the great videos 💪
Also, Quadstar Tuning is a great reputable place to get parts and info for these trucks.
I have a 95 chevy 3500hd with the same engine and only have a 65.000miles and not run any more. I don’t know about mecanic but I am so excited to found this video and wait for you to repair that engine and see the process to see if I can get mine running. The 6.5 has several problems that I would like to see how you will fix it in your videos.
Wow all the covers on these engines seem to be welded into place lol well played with the strap. Never would have crossed my mind.
Thanks, I seem to use ratchet straps way too often for weird things 😂
Nice video 👍
A 12v Cummins would be pretty sweet; but also the most common swap. I would be interesting to see something less conventional, maybe like a small cat, Perkins, or a 2stroke Detroit?
Keep up the good work
Thanks! Those are some good suggestions! 🤔
Check your crank pulley and your harmonic balancer they both make that noise and a bad vacuume pump will make that noise and check your heat shields under the turbo
Thanks for the tips! I've checked the crank pulley and harmonic balancer. I've removed and reinstalled the turbo heat shields with no change in noise. I didn't think to check the vacuum pump though, so thanks!
The same goes for the injection pump timing. Since it’s over 200k & since it starts decent cold, but does it once warm it sounds to me like a dying IP. If the timing is off it can knock because of bad timing.
If it was a wrist pin you’d hear the knock when cold, cuz the wrist pin expands with the rod as it warms up.
The 6.9/7.3 IDIs use the same DB2 IP, & 200k is a lot for a stock IP. A 6.9/7.3 IDI needs the IP replaced at 180-190k 200k if ur lucky & do your fuel additives.
Or it could’ve been some dirty injectors or some old fuel since it’s been sitting.
Keep it up man! Great video.
Thanks!
Love this truck..great work
You did well with the Cummins 5,9
I just started watching your videos and for the most part they’re informative. don’t follow why you went to all the trouble to remove the oil pan if you weren’t going to pull the main and rod caps, though. IMO that would be the only purpose of pulling the pan. The 6.5’s were notorious for breaking cranks, but you wouldn’t need to pull the pan to figure that out. I had a 6.2 diesel that I ran over 300k miles. Still going strong when I parted the truck due to electrical issues. I wouldn’t have bothered spending any money on the 5.2 or 6.5. Even when new they didn’t make much power and adding the turbo to it only brought durability issues. I guess it makes for “good content”.
I used to have a weird clinking sound on the turbo side of the engine, I bought some Phillips 66 guardall from a liquidation store and it actually stopped that clinking sound and the engine ran great. If I run Wallmart 15-40 the noise soon returns. My 6.5 is a 97 and its getting on.
Im gonna sub and thumbs up just for all that effort you just done
Hey yo Waldo…where are you at man? I spent my entire childhood trying to find you.
Nice video...I replaced the rod bearings in my 2004 Diesel Suburban 6.5 last year. I'd just note that its impossible to really tell if a bearing is worn out by visual only. You really have to disassemble a few and check with "plastiguage". Mine were out of spec and after much thought just went with Clevite stock bearings--to this day I'm not sure if a size "under" would have been technically better---but having a little too much clearance is better than too little--it needs room for oil film. After replacement they were at very wide end of service range--so should still be good for a while..The rod bolts on a 6.5 are like hens teeth..but found a distributer in Tx. Mine has 280K and it made a major difference. The other thing is to replace lifters and push rods--not necessary to take off heads...The lifters go bad in these things and I guarantee that with 200k you need both lifters and bearings..I've found that all these parts are downright cheap...its just lots and lots and lots of work...but I love this vehicle and this engine..
At this point, I've already pulled the 6.5 for a Cummins swap, but I really look forward to giving it a rebuild and installing it into something that doesn't need as much power. I'm considering installing it in my new Land Rover project 🤔
Plasti gage would tell you whether to go standard or oversize. I doubt commonly available .010 over bearings would have fit, but I have torn down engine that had .002 and .003 bearings. I have a bunch of rod and main bearing for a 350 sbc in various oversized like this still in new GM packages. They came from my SIL’s grandpa who was a mechanic at a Buick dealer in the 80’s.
Too much bearing clearance results in low oil pressure.
@@WIDESIDE72 after the bearing replacement...I'm running at steady 40--and up to 60 at start up...so I'm good
I have found that sometimes rotating the crank will allow the pan to slide off
I used to install lifts, it looks like a rotary lift to me. all parts will be available from rotary or ski international. anchor bolts are torqued to 150 ft pounds and yearly should be checked at haha I forget, I think its 90 ft pounds. you can have Napa make up new houses with JIC fittings if you need them. the power buttons go bad, you can find the same button in the light limit switch if a vehicle ever gets suck. also if you ever want the best two post made they are by mohawk lifts out on New York state. hit me up if you have any questions
Put a torch on those exhaust bolts...that should free them up a bit
I have almost the exact same truck. It has a pulsing sound coming from the intake when I start it cold sometimes. It runs perfect during and after the noise. I drove it 1 hour to get it home with no issues. Not sure what it is yet.
Oh cool! A pulsing from the intake, huh? Not sure what that would be, but I wish you the best!
Good video
To be honest I am not really well versed on 6.5’s but I do have some knowledge. I have heard of these having loose valves. When they are cold the valves drop a little. As the head warms up the knock sound lessens. Did you take the valve covers off and check the valve train?
Thanks for the input! I haven't pulled the valve covers off... I was just looking for an excuse to do a Cummins swap, I think 😬
That would make since these heads are known for cracking.
Thanks Waldo! Youre awesome.
I hate it when a repair job just keeps growing as you remove parts. My patience runs out and regret fills in.
Great video! Classic example of what should be a simple job passing the point of no return. Would you consider mentioning the total budget spent on the truck each step?
Thanks, Carl! I'll try to mention the cost going forward, though I guarantee the $300 truck is going to become MUCH more expensive! haha
The sensor on injection pump looks like a throttle position sensor wires are cut off of mine when I bought it,will that make mine smoke?
Every mechanics last words oh well I ll deal with it later lol
Man you musta got a good deal on red paint. To me sounds like air in fuel system, for some reason mine sounded like this after it ran for a bit... turned out sending unit was rotted and pulling air into fuel system
I like the red frame, but I'm not really digging the wheels in red. As for air in the fuel system, that's interesting...I wonder why that would cause it to make that noise though
How bout that flatbed part 2 lol
These engines just sound like that. I know you ended up swapping it out but I don’t think it was necessary. Mine has sounded the same for 10 years
You don't happen to still have the old DB2 injection pump that you could help a disabled veteran with???
Hey where did you get those headlights from?
From Amazon: amzn.to/3g63P3v
Thanks. I am purchasing a 1997 Chevy 3500 HD In a few days. It has 219,000 miles. It was a AT&T service truck. The body is in excellent shape. I just pray the motor holds up for me. I haven’t read to many good thing about the 6.5
Just sell me the 6.5 so I can save my pickup. Take two engines make one.
...the Ilmango outro.
So, is this 6.5 Diesel is more powerful than the Cummings? How so?
No, the Cummins that I chose (out of a 1999 Dodge) is more powerful. Stock power is 235 vs 190 and torque is 460 vs 385
@@WaldosWorld I thought it had a bigger displacement, I am not familiar with the Cummings, but I always hear it is one of the best.
@@boobayloo cummins, no g
Did you scrap the old 6.5 engine yet?
No, I'm saving it for a future project 😬
@@WaldosWorld Id look at the injectors for that knock ;)
@@__Michal He already replaced the injectors
You DO NOT have to pull the crank out. Just the rod bolts & head.
what happened to part III?
Needs a Detroit....
I'm sure I'll put a Detroit in a truck one of these days 👌
it is a detroit, lol
@@adamwatford5234 6.5 is a General Engine products unit not a Detroit. The point was it's not a two stroke like Waldo has in his backhoe.
did you ever find out what it was?
You know I ,m thinking that second hole would just confuse the sh?T out the guys at Jiffy lube.........
🤣
You could have used something with an "eye" and used the sump bolt to clamp it down🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Why not call it Fort Knocks?
Someone had a knock caused from a worn timing chain
14:47 I love how Aspen agrees
im a 20 year gm tech retired in s.nh if you ever need assistance with gm cars and trucks im happy to help out
can I just point out that you elected to drill a hole into your oil pan, right next to the already existing oil drain hole… 🤭
Sounded like 6.5 to me they are pretty clunky sounding
I’d swap a 5.9 Cummins Engine into it 👍
That's a really good idea! 🤔
I'd like to send you information
Oh no the Gadsden flag is gone ??
Instead of creating more work for yourself, trying heating up the edges of the Sump with a Hot Air Gun first instead of Drilling a Hole.