I can't give this video enough likes... perfect amount of helpful info, from actually running the car with the knock, to showing how the rod bearings were wore out. Thank you
Love how u ddnt take the whole engine apart to do a simple fix im gonna check my rides now i have 2 vehicles with the same knock? THANK U SO MUCH FOR THE MECHANIC VIDEO!!!👍😀
1 of the most useful videos on CZcams This happened on my Opel Astra F c16se, 1st there was that engine knocking sound then I opened the top cover & noticed there was no oil reaching the hydraulic lifters then changed the 1 camshaft 2 oil 3 oil filter 4 head gasket It continued & was clueless untill I bumped into this video For sure my no1 piston was shacking and had no even a piece of bearing left. Will update soon, hope the parts I need now will get them by Tuesday. Thanks a ton man.
When repairing something like this, you have to be a bit of a detective. Ask yourself, "What would cause this?" The 2 answers are 1) not enough lubrication or 2) excessive engine speed. If there is not enough lubrication, take a look at the condition of the other rod bearings, and the main bearings. If something like a defective oil pump is the cause, then all of the bearings will have some damage. If it is just the one bearing, then I would suspect a clogged oil passage. The rod bearings are oiled by a passage in the crankshaft from one of the main bearings, in this engine probably the front one,. You can clean the passage in the crankshaft, and check to see if the passage from the block to the main bearing is clogged, which would also cause damage to the main bearing. Years ago, there was a service available where the journal could be ground in the car by removing the oil pan, and replacing the starter motor with a large electric motor. Various grinding stones would then be used to grind the journal round again. The engine would then be cleaned of the metal shavings, and the rod bearing replaced with a thicker one. I don't know if this is available now, as this is a very old way of repairing a crankshaft. Another possible repair is to buy a used crankshaft that is still in reasonably good condition, and replace the damaged one in the car. It can be a lot of work, but if a person does not have enough money for a rebuild, then this is a possibility. Also consider replacing the engine with a good used one from a wrecked car. These are some of the experiences I have had over many years repairing my own cars and friend's cars. Best wishes to you.
Quite a word there, you said it all.. the point you said a clogged, answered it all. The oil galleries sometimes blocked either due to bad oil or lack of servicing as on when due, presenting am battling same issue on a 400 series Perkins generator, infact the number one Piston had to burst the engine block, I have to get another wreck good engine block, change crankshaft, Piston, metal and main bearing.. am at final stage of rounding up, the Gen will soon be use again
Had this happen to my 94 Chevy Z71. 350 engine. It started when I pulled our 5th wheel to Blyth for Dove season. I lived in Hesperia, 170 miles away. The knock got real bad going up Cajon Pass, on the way home. I pulled the oil pan the next day, pulled off the #1 rod cap. The bearing was trashed, but the crank was fine. I replaced all the rod bearings with no further issues. The truck is still on the road today with over 431,000 miles on it, with the same bearings I put in it, purchased from NAPA auto parts.
Your a very lucky person to get away with just replacing the rod bearings especially after such a high mileage,I think at the very least I would have replaced the main bearings as well just to improve oil pressure,it’s not often you can get away with what you did at least not for long,you have more faith than me doing this.
This is a great video! My 2003 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L engine, makes the exact same noise. I am mechanically inclined to do the job. Thank you! You make it look easy.
Thanks for your video. Though I’m just a girl interested in understanding how to diagnose the engine noises , your simple explanation and faithful demonstration make me thoroughly understand car engine🥰😚🙂 sorry for your car , thanks for your kindness 😇😇😍😍😍
Lots of things you guys didn't even try. First of all you can't just replace only one and call it a day, you have to replace all and sand it a little to smoothen it.
I done mine before they got to bad still driving it change oil frequently your good I changed mine at 200,000 just because of cold start ever slight knock til warm
My mild custom 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue 3800 Series II started a bearing rod knock as yours did - I changed oil to Synthetic and STP synthetic oil additive not traditional oil to nurse it, and it grew quiet but I'll keep my foot out of it. The main problem was standard recommended oil, it all started using passing gear oil sloshed a bearing dry.
Good video. Youd probably have got away with it if you'd polished the surfaces with very fine sandpaper and a wrapped shoelace. Does the trick most times.
Have a 2002 Subaru outback with a 2.0 4 cylinder, and we're fixing to drop the crankshaft out clean it up and put all new rod and bearings in it this way the bottom in is nice and fresh it only has a mild knock but we all know sooner or later that's going to get worse and catastrophic might as well get on it now and fix it before it gets worse
If the nocks coming from a Ford f150. The nocks more than likely coming from the bottom on a rod barring. Great video. I ran my 99 ran low in oil and I put oil back in it. Started nocking. Heard it louder from the bottom.
BJ if you can hear it coming from the bottom of the engine it's going to be a rod bearing. The crankshaft sits inside the oil pan at the bottom of the engine. The lifters are at the very top of the engine trust me and save yourself some time you'll want to replace the whole engine.
@@Smashachu oh yeah.. I'm not rebuilding it. I already bought a new ride so. In the long run if I keep it. I'll put a new motor in it. Its definitely locked up.
I have this noise on my Vauxhall Zafira B 2008 1.8 Petrol Design model, before the noise started Ive just had rocker gasket replaced, as well as the oil cooler gaskets & oil filter too, i think the camshaft sensors have gone. can you advice me please.
My Little Ford Fiesta 1.4i was making a nasty clunking sound the other day I recorded the sound I immediately drained the oil and found ZERO metal fragments I took of the Valve cover casket and saw the seal was damaged so I replaced the seal now the car is not smoking anymore and the clunking is gone I couldnt believe it was probably low on oil since it burned oil.
I did all this to my ford focus and had to fit new undersized bearings (thicker) and added the Lucas oil thickener...like the guy said.. the engine didn't turn over to easy but it wore its self in sufficiently..still going a year on
@@LeftInTheEnd ...the main journal was pretty much egg shaped to 0.5 of a mm.. With the crank shaft still in the engine.. sanding it down would be impossibly difficult..I just fitted undersized bearings to make the knocking less apparent....the really thick oil helps stop the metal against metal problem of an egg shaped journal...good luck
Can I swap a 2005 tl 3.2 v6 and put it inside my 2004 ex sedan Honda Accord ?? Automatic on both transmissions… can I use the transmission from the Acura and put it on the accord or no!?… and how about the harnesses?
Emery cloth to hone the surfaces is a good all contact surfaces to prevent it spinning again and probably should replace the oil pickup too as it's probably clogged with bearing material
I just bought a 01 Ram 1500 SLT 5.2 Oil pan has left the chat on me after hearing knocking from under on a drive I will take oil pan off tomorrow to see as it is night time now but I’m mainly asking what all should I replace do I have to lift engine just to get pan off
The crank shaft need to be resurfaced or replaced........I have seen a couple of people try (and been successful) to the polish the crank on the one crankpin journal for the connecting rod while it is still in the engine. It is not easy and it depends on the damage and how well it is polished and then how well the bearings are matched. If it is not done well it will end destroy the engine in the end. That bearing "spun" because of a lack of lubrication. You can tell by how dirty the engine is that oil has not been changed on a regular basis - that caused the engine failure. Moral of the story: Change your oil or you will end up changing your engine.
@@DIY_PROFESSIONAL Understood.......I would have liked to see you polish the crankpin journal before replacing the bearing there......It still may have failed. Sometimes "the scoring" that is on the journal is just bearing material that needs to be removed. This (below) can be done with the crank in the block but it makes it more difficult. czcams.com/video/RLb6bYuje4s/video.html&pbjreload=101
Did you replace all the rod bearings when you dropped the oil pan or just the one bad one? I'm curios if you only changed one if the returned knocking was from the others failing or the fact you didn't replace the rod, bottom hat and polish the crank.
FOR SALE RUNS WELL, FRESH OIL CHANGE (with gear oil and a bottle or 2 of STP OIL TREATMENT TO KEEP IT QUIET FOR a little while). ITS A DRIVER, DRIVE IT, BUY IT, LOVE IT, LOVE EVERYTHING ABOUT IT!!!!!!!!
And also make sure to rev past 5500 RPM while it's cold to get cold oil circulating at the top end. That way the engine lasts longer and makes more power when you're ready to go.
Hey I got a geo metro 3 cylinder, sometimes sounds like it's going to throw a rod and other times it sounds very smooth with no sounds like a slight knock. What could be the issue?
I knew before the end that the end result wouldn't be good. As soon as I saw the spun bearing, I knew you should have replaced the connecting rod. More than likely, it just spun again.
I have a 2003 f 150 5.4 liter and ive had a knock for a while but after i was pushing my truck earlier you could heard it a lot more and it would knock faster when yiu accelerate, i changed the oil like 2 weeks ago and idk what it is, any recommendations?
I build engines part time; 5-6 a year. The instant he found glitter (its pulverized metal) in the oil pan the engine is junk; he should have put the pan back on and look for a new motor. Remember there is several times more in the rest of the engine and it is impossible to get even a fraction of it without removing, tearing down, and cleaning the block, heads, oil passages and every internal engine part. Otherwise when you get done repalcing the trashed bearing you start te car and pump pulverized metal i to the new bearings. Not to mention 99.9% of the time The crank MUST be machined.
@@Jacobprogammer Not much life. The best case scenario installing a bearing on a scored journal will last only give you 5-10 minutes. Then you have it towed home, your doing an engine transplant anyway.
@@Jacobprogammer on a scored crank he will have no oil film to support the pressures generated when the engine is running, so instant destruction of the new bearing surface. He wasted a lot of time and some money for no gain.
The Subaru is way different due to it being a BOX motor, the casing has to be split apart. Just so you know and good luck. Coming from a former Subaru owner. I miss mine 😢
That's more like clunking rather than knocking! I have a pinging coming from my Chevrolet v6 3.1L... It's not loud nor fast so hopefully it will still work a long while.
Thats a remedy for sale it. A good work need to take out the cranck to a machine shop to set it and check the piston, and also put all the bearing. That engine suffered in much ways with that knocn
looked like potentially an oil starvation issue to that journal imho - it was dry as a bone so the same thing probably happened to the new one as the root cause wasnt fixed.
Crankshaft and Rod were already ruined, if they are scratched like that there Is no point on changing the bearings, Is too late the crank Will eat the new bearings in no time
I have the same issue started yesterday and I'm looking for solutions but its not a desperate process it's more of a learning experience. Would I have to rebuild the engine or just replace the damaged parts?
Replacing the damaged parts should be enough. But the fastest way is to replace it with a good engine. You will need loads of gaskets and seals ones you tear it down. Also bear in mind that an engine is got couple of screws and parts that you will need to replace before reassembled. Good luck and Hope that helps
Seat leon 2001 1.9Tdi here, changed the oil and oil filter a months ago, and like 3-4 days ago i started hearing that knock sound but only when i shift (so like if i put the engine on neutral or hold down the clutch the sound is there) but when i accelerate it goes away, and i don't think it's there when i engine break either, it's a loud engine so it may cover it up but u don't think so. What could this be?
The cheapest fix to get this baby back on the road is a used engine. It will cost at least $1500 in parts and machining to get this engine back in spec. Rod bearing is major engine failure. He lucky if the engine starts and stay running 10 minutes with his solution.
No kidding! And even if it runs; five minutes away from that shop and anything over 2500 RPM it's gonna start knocking all over again, even if that rod shell bearing doesn't spin again, although it almost certainly will ! Wasted time spent making a half azzed repair that has a half-life measured in minutes.
My father's subaru rattles and smokes on cold start then sounds fine (visible smoke only in cold weather). until you accelerate above 3000 rpm and the rattle starts again. I'm too far away to help my father, but the mechanics are telling him to change the engine. Does anyone have any advice or suggested steps to take? Thank you for taking the time
I'm having same problem with my Honda Accord 01 but if I drive too aggressive with it or especially up hill it knocks so hard coming from the passenger side I have to let off the gas a little bit just to stop it
My car (camry 2018 Se) at times has a knocking noise when I stop at a light or when the car is is D mode.The knocking disappear when I put it in N. any advice on what the problem might be
I have a Chevy 1996 5.7L 350 Sb is knocking noise. I took the oil pan out and found metal residual. I was told I need a new engine. The engine turn on and drives. Any advice please. Thanks
Hi. The most safer way to resolve this issue is to replace the engine . The metal shavings even if you change worn-out parts still can be stuck somewhere and at some point will come back in places you don't want. But if there is just a little amount off metal residual, and there are minimal damages, and you have time to strip the engine and recon/replace damaged parts there are good chances to be still good but you have to find out why engine was starving of oil in the first place. Good luck and hope this helps.
Spun the bearing and when that happens that little oil port hole in the bearings misalign and close off. Then the crank journal REALLY starves on oil and it ovals off the rod journal on the crankshaft. Sometimes you can get lucky and only change the rod bearings and your ok. But it depends on how long you run the vehicle after it starts knocking
If you stop immediately when the knock appears you May have luck and save the engine, if you drive the car even a few km with the knock the crank gets ruined and goodbye engine
if no oil, it was a problem of oil circulation. when you putted off the old piece, you noticed the absence of oil... you should have concluded the oil circulation was blocked on this piece... you should have pushed with air or with anything through the oil hole to disblock it... since the oil circuit was not cleaned there, the new piece was not oiled... so it soon came to ashes like the other one and the sound came back.
Car made noise and turned off and havent turned it on since, its best to get new engine? And if it messed up due to oil starvation, im sure the rest of the cranks gonna mess up too eventually or theres damaged components throughout the engine just awaiting to mess up? I would drive recklessly😂 need answers
FINALLY! An engine noise video that actually has a noise in it instead of 10 mins of talking about a noise...
Youre talking about that russian mechanic 🤣 i thought the same thing
Exactly
On God tho🤣🤣🤣❤️
Mi brother perdiste el tiempo, lo más importante como pudiste el cigüeña no lo mostraste, esperaba ver la tecnología rusa en accion.
Amen tid aved me from buy an Chevy ss with the dsme issues
I can't give this video enough likes... perfect amount of helpful info, from actually running the car with the knock, to showing how the rod bearings were wore out. Thank you
Happy to help. 😊
Some video s they just talk, some don t talk.
I actually learned something from this 👍
I am glad that this helps!😊
screw the haters the video helps a lot
Thanks
Love how u ddnt take the whole engine apart to do a simple fix im gonna check my rides now i have 2 vehicles with the same knock? THANK U SO MUCH FOR THE MECHANIC VIDEO!!!👍😀
1 of the most useful videos on CZcams
This happened on my Opel Astra F c16se, 1st there was that engine knocking sound then I opened the top cover & noticed there was no oil reaching the hydraulic lifters then changed the
1 camshaft
2 oil
3 oil filter
4 head gasket
It continued & was clueless untill I bumped into this video
For sure my no1 piston was shacking and had no even a piece of bearing left.
Will update soon, hope the parts I need now will get them by Tuesday.
Thanks a ton man.
Thanks for the detailed comments...Happy to be useful. 🙂
When repairing something like this, you have to be a bit of a detective. Ask yourself, "What would cause this?" The 2 answers are 1) not enough lubrication or 2) excessive engine speed. If there is not enough lubrication, take a look at the condition of the other rod bearings, and the main bearings. If something like a defective oil pump is the cause, then all of the bearings will have some damage. If it is just the one bearing, then I would suspect a clogged oil passage. The rod bearings are oiled by a passage in the crankshaft from one of the main bearings, in this engine probably the front one,. You can clean the passage in the crankshaft, and check to see if the passage from the block to the main bearing is clogged, which would also cause damage to the main bearing. Years ago, there was a service available where the journal could be ground in the car by removing the oil pan, and replacing the starter motor with a large electric motor. Various grinding stones would then be used to grind the journal round again. The engine would then be cleaned of the metal shavings, and the rod bearing replaced with a thicker one. I don't know if this is available now, as this is a very old way of repairing a crankshaft. Another possible repair is to buy a used crankshaft that is still in reasonably good condition, and replace the damaged one in the car. It can be a lot of work, but if a person does not have enough money for a rebuild, then this is a possibility. Also consider replacing the engine with a good used one from a wrecked car. These are some of the experiences I have had over many years repairing my own cars and friend's cars. Best wishes to you.
Quite a word there, you said it all.. the point you said a clogged, answered it all. The oil galleries sometimes blocked either due to bad oil or lack of servicing as on when due, presenting am battling same issue on a 400 series Perkins generator, infact the number one Piston had to burst the engine block, I have to get another wreck good engine block, change crankshaft, Piston, metal and main bearing.. am at final stage of rounding up, the Gen will soon be use again
@@princechigozie7194 I hope that you can get the generator working again at not too great of a cost. My best wishes to you.
Had this happen to my 94 Chevy Z71. 350 engine. It started when I pulled our 5th wheel to Blyth for Dove season. I lived in Hesperia, 170 miles away. The knock got real bad going up Cajon Pass, on the way home. I pulled the oil pan the next day, pulled off the #1 rod cap. The bearing was trashed, but the crank was fine. I replaced all the rod bearings with no further issues. The truck is still on the road today with over 431,000 miles on it, with the same bearings I put in it, purchased from NAPA auto parts.
Happy to hear that this procedure worked.
Your a very lucky person to get away with just replacing the rod bearings especially after such a high mileage,I think at the very least I would have replaced the main bearings as well just to improve oil pressure,it’s not often you can get away with what you did at least not for long,you have more faith than me doing this.
Probably the best rod knock videos out there. Nice job 👍🏼
Thanks
Great VIDEO & Content guys ! You really helped me with the issue I’m having…. Keep up the great work !!! Peace
Man that this the most terrifying noise I have ever heard in my life. Breaks my heart and wallet
😂😂
This is a great video! My 2003 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L engine, makes the exact same noise. I am mechanically inclined to do the job. Thank you! You make it look easy.
Thanks for watching. Happy to help.
Thanks for your video. Though I’m just a girl interested in understanding how to diagnose the engine noises , your simple explanation and faithful demonstration make me thoroughly understand car engine🥰😚🙂 sorry for your car , thanks for your kindness 😇😇😍😍😍
Hallo, danke für das Video. Ich habe exakt das gleiche Problem bei meinem Chrysler new Yorker 1995. schöne Grüße aus Deutschland
Nice diagnosis, love this content 💯
Lots of things you guys didn't even try. First of all you can't just replace only one and call it a day, you have to replace all and sand it a little to smoothen it.
Great job y'all. Thank you.
I done mine before they got to bad still driving it change oil frequently your good I changed mine at 200,000 just because of cold start ever slight knock til warm
Thanks 🙏🏻 very much 👏👏✌️🥰 god luck 🍀
thank you for the upload fellers. I appreciate you
Amazing, thank you so much. Please more videos
Great video even though the end result wasn’t successful. Always wondered if this would work on a knocking engine
My mild custom 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue 3800 Series II started a bearing rod knock as yours did - I changed oil to Synthetic and STP synthetic oil additive not traditional oil to nurse it, and it grew quiet but I'll keep my foot out of it. The main problem was standard recommended oil, it all started using passing gear oil sloshed a bearing dry.
I'm glad that worked out for you.
First video I’ve found that shows the exact problem and noise I have
really super duper helpful video sir . thank you so much
Good video. Youd probably have got away with it if you'd polished the surfaces with very fine sandpaper and a wrapped shoelace. Does the trick most times.
My car have the same noise, I will try to fix it myself. Thank you very much
I'm glad this helped. Thanks for commenting🙂
Fantastic video..best I have seen so far my my engine noise
I managed to fix my engine with the help of this video.
Happy to help!
@@DIY_PROFESSIONAL if you can do an online shop for spare parts...I think that would be great
Have a 2002 Subaru outback with a 2.0 4 cylinder, and we're fixing to drop the crankshaft out clean it up and put all new rod and bearings in it this way the bottom in is nice and fresh it only has a mild knock but we all know sooner or later that's going to get worse and catastrophic might as well get on it now and fix it before it gets worse
thanks for the video, same issue on my 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe had to replace oil pump and crankshaft with one piston arm.
Happy to help
I have a 2014 Santa Fe same noise did that fix the problem
From the description of the comment that did fix the problem.
If the nocks coming from a Ford f150. The nocks more than likely coming from the bottom on a rod barring. Great video. I ran my 99 ran low in oil and I put oil back in it. Started nocking. Heard it louder from the bottom.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
BJ if you can hear it coming from the bottom of the engine it's going to be a rod bearing. The crankshaft sits inside the oil pan at the bottom of the engine. The lifters are at the very top of the engine trust me and save yourself some time you'll want to replace the whole engine.
@@Smashachu oh yeah.. I'm not rebuilding it. I already bought a new ride so. In the long run if I keep it. I'll put a new motor in it. Its definitely locked up.
@@Smashachu meant to say rod baring. Somebody else told me that. I appreciate the knowledge.
Mate, get long screwdriver and put rubber end to ear and put other end on motor, move around until U find where sound coming from.
That's wonderful.. I also did to my volvo 850 too
Im very thank full for this video today i save my 30000 from yours tip
good job. do you beleive crankshaft or connectinmg rod bearings sounds can be up /down just sometimes not in all revelotions?
Great video for a lesson and learning.
would have really been helpful if you showed the steps for the installation of the new bearings, but informative helpful video.
Very Amizing thank you so much
Good info and advise thanks
Thank you for being honest
been wondering what was the piston arm...
are you talking about the connecting rod?
I have this noise on my Vauxhall Zafira B 2008 1.8 Petrol Design model, before the noise started Ive just had rocker gasket replaced, as well as the oil cooler gaskets & oil filter too, i think the camshaft sensors have gone. can you advice me please.
16 Elantra Gt manual I was considering doing the same thing just to sell it. But if I didn't how reliable would it be like this would you say?
Very good video!
Thanks for been honest
Crank needs to be balanced as well sometimes it looses , yes you mentioned it
My Little Ford Fiesta 1.4i was making a nasty clunking sound the other day I recorded the sound I immediately drained the oil and found ZERO metal fragments I took of the Valve cover casket and saw the seal was damaged so I replaced the seal now the car is not smoking anymore and the clunking is gone I couldnt believe it was probably low on oil since it burned oil.
I did all this to my ford focus and had to fit new undersized bearings (thicker) and added the Lucas oil thickener...like the guy said.. the engine didn't turn over to easy but it wore its self in sufficiently..still going a year on
That is great. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I'm planning on doing this to my car...did you get undersized bearings because rod cap was scored? Did you sand anything down?
@@LeftInTheEnd ...the main journal was pretty much egg shaped to 0.5 of a mm..
With the crank shaft still in the engine.. sanding it down would be impossibly difficult..I just fitted undersized bearings to make the knocking less apparent....the really thick oil helps stop the metal against metal problem of an egg shaped journal...good luck
Can I swap a 2005 tl 3.2 v6 and put it inside my 2004 ex sedan Honda Accord ?? Automatic on both transmissions… can I use the transmission from the Acura and put it on the accord or no!?… and how about the harnesses?
spun bearing. usually caused from lack of oil. at some point it probably had oil leak and ran it to low on oil in the past.
Emery cloth to hone the surfaces is a good all contact surfaces to prevent it spinning again and probably should replace the oil pickup too as it's probably clogged with bearing material
I just bought a 01 Ram 1500 SLT 5.2
Oil pan has left the chat on me after hearing knocking from under on a drive I will take oil pan off tomorrow to see as it is night time now but I’m mainly asking what all should I replace do I have to lift engine just to get pan off
Top vidéos Belgique
Thanks Borat 😊
Good video. This is happening to my 06 Infiniti M35. How much does a repair like this usually cost?
The crank shaft need to be resurfaced or replaced........I have seen a couple of people try (and been successful) to the polish the crank on the one crankpin journal for the connecting rod while it is still in the engine. It is not easy and it depends on the damage and how well it is polished and then how well the bearings are matched. If it is not done well it will end destroy the engine in the end. That bearing "spun" because of a lack of lubrication. You can tell by how dirty the engine is that oil has not been changed on a regular basis - that caused the engine failure. Moral of the story: Change your oil or you will end up changing your engine.
I agree with you, but this is just an experimental process as I mentioned in the video. Very nice comment , thanks 😊
@@DIY_PROFESSIONAL Understood.......I would have liked to see you polish the crankpin journal before replacing the bearing there......It still may have failed. Sometimes "the scoring" that is on the journal is just bearing material that needs to be removed. This (below) can be done with the crank in the block but it makes it more difficult.
czcams.com/video/RLb6bYuje4s/video.html&pbjreload=101
This was super helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Did you replace all the rod bearings when you dropped the oil pan or just the one bad one? I'm curios if you only changed one if the returned knocking was from the others failing or the fact you didn't replace the rod, bottom hat and polish the crank.
I replaced just the one was making noise from what I remember...
Brilliant video thank u 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
FOR SALE RUNS WELL, FRESH OIL CHANGE (with gear oil and a bottle or 2 of STP OIL TREATMENT TO KEEP IT QUIET FOR a little while). ITS A DRIVER, DRIVE IT, BUY IT, LOVE IT, LOVE EVERYTHING ABOUT IT!!!!!!!!
Sounds good dude, just add more boost like 1,5 bars would be fine and move ahead.
And also make sure to rev past 5500 RPM while it's cold to get cold oil circulating at the top end. That way the engine lasts longer and makes more power when you're ready to go.
@@tmo2798 Exactly
😄
Hey I got a geo metro 3 cylinder, sometimes sounds like it's going to throw a rod and other times it sounds very smooth with no sounds like a slight knock. What could be the issue?
Excellent video.
Thanks
I think this can work only if the bearings have not spun. It may not be the right way, but can keep a car on the road longer instead of the junkyard.
Did yall like not watch the end of the video he legit said it didn’t last long and that he doesn’t recommend
I knew before the end that the end result wouldn't be good. As soon as I saw the spun bearing, I knew you should have replaced the connecting rod. More than likely, it just spun again.
I have a 2003 f 150 5.4 liter and ive had a knock for a while but after i was pushing my truck earlier you could heard it a lot more and it would knock faster when yiu accelerate, i changed the oil like 2 weeks ago and idk what it is, any recommendations?
Rod knock or bearing failure
I build engines part time; 5-6 a year. The instant he found glitter (its pulverized metal) in the oil pan the engine is junk; he should have put the pan back on and look for a new motor. Remember there is several times more in the rest of the engine and it is impossible to get even a fraction of it without removing, tearing down, and cleaning the block, heads, oil passages and every internal engine part. Otherwise when you get done repalcing the trashed bearing you start te car and pump pulverized metal i to the new bearings. Not to mention 99.9% of the time The crank MUST be machined.
The engine is fucked, he knows it's fucked, this will at least get a little more life out of it.
@@Jacobprogammer
Not much life. The best case scenario installing a bearing on a scored journal will last only give you 5-10 minutes. Then you have it towed home, your doing an engine transplant anyway.
@@Jacobprogammer on a scored crank he will have no oil film to support the pressures generated when the engine is running, so instant destruction of the new bearing surface. He wasted a lot of time and some money for no gain.
Video gave me confidence to get under car and drain it and take transmission oil pan off ,zz I have 2006 Subaru outback with this knock noise
The Subaru is way different due to it being a BOX motor, the casing has to be split apart. Just so you know and good luck. Coming from a former Subaru owner. I miss mine 😢
Did you install the standard size rod bearings with the sound you had on this video ?
That's more like clunking rather than knocking! I have a pinging coming from my Chevrolet v6 3.1L... It's not loud nor fast so hopefully it will still work a long while.
how long did the repair last
Was worth a shot anyway
Thanks for the info at the end. 😆
my 2010 c5 1.6hdi has this problem .thought id found the fix here but going to have to scrap it.
Hi good day could you please tell me what is the torque on the bolt for a Toyota avanza 1.5 vvt
Thats a remedy for sale it. A good work need to take out the cranck to a machine shop to set it and check the piston, and also put all the bearing. That engine suffered in much ways with that knocn
looked like potentially an oil starvation issue to that journal imho - it was dry as a bone so the same thing probably happened to the new one as the root cause wasnt fixed.
Crankshaft and Rod were already ruined, if they are scratched like that there Is no point on changing the bearings, Is too late the crank Will eat the new bearings in no time
I have the same issue started yesterday and I'm looking for solutions but its not a desperate process it's more of a learning experience. Would I have to rebuild the engine or just replace the damaged parts?
Replacing the damaged parts should be enough. But the fastest way is to replace it with a good engine. You will need loads of gaskets and seals ones you tear it down. Also bear in mind that an engine is got couple of screws and parts that you will need to replace before reassembled. Good luck and Hope that helps
You did other truck mean the engine lock on thetruck and you did? Or better can be fixed on truck
that engine is knock knock knocking on heavens door.
Seat leon 2001 1.9Tdi here, changed the oil and oil filter a months ago, and like 3-4 days ago i started hearing that knock sound but only when i shift (so like if i put the engine on neutral or hold down the clutch the sound is there) but when i accelerate it goes away, and i don't think it's there when i engine break either, it's a loud engine so it may cover it up but u don't think so.
What could this be?
Piston slap maybe
Thank you ‼️
No oil pressure at idle usually/very often means the oil pump is gone. Maybe that was the problem in the first place.
The cheapest fix to get this baby back on the road is a used engine. It will cost at least $1500 in parts and machining to get this engine back in spec. Rod bearing is major engine failure. He lucky if the engine starts and stay running 10 minutes with his solution.
No kidding! And even if it runs; five minutes away from that shop and anything over 2500 RPM it's gonna start knocking all over again, even if that rod shell bearing doesn't spin again, although it almost certainly will ! Wasted time spent making a half azzed repair that has a half-life measured in minutes.
My father's subaru rattles and smokes on cold start then sounds fine (visible smoke only in cold weather). until you accelerate above 3000 rpm and the rattle starts again. I'm too far away to help my father, but the mechanics are telling him to change the engine. Does anyone have any advice or suggested steps to take? Thank you for taking the time
I'm having same problem with my Honda Accord 01 but if I drive too aggressive with it or especially up hill it knocks so hard coming from the passenger side I have to let off the gas a little bit just to stop it
Apparently there is a problem with injectors from my experience...
I was very curious how far this car made it on this fix, not too far looks like !
My car (camry 2018 Se) at times has a knocking noise when I stop at a light or when the car is is D mode.The knocking disappear when I put it in N. any advice on what the problem might be
I am not an expert in automatic gearboxes but from what you tell looks like you have a problem with the gearbox.
I have the same issue with my 2018 sonata.
Might be an oil pressure problem. Hook up an external pressure gage.
I have a Chevy 1996 5.7L 350 Sb is knocking noise. I took the oil pan out and found metal residual. I was told I need a new engine. The engine turn on and drives. Any advice please. Thanks
It’s a rod knock or bearings if you founds metals particles you do need a new engine or you could rebuild the engine
Hi. The most safer way to resolve this issue is to replace the engine . The metal shavings even if you change worn-out parts still can be stuck somewhere and at some point will come back in places you don't want. But if there is just a little amount off metal residual, and there are minimal damages, and you have time to strip the engine and recon/replace damaged parts there are good chances to be still good but you have to find out why engine was starving of oil in the first place. Good luck and hope this helps.
So with all that being said, how much does this cost on average and at this point?
New engine means I’m getting rid of my vehicle. I’ve replaced a lot of things already in a vehicle that isn’t worth more than $3500
I feel sad to hear that but in some cases you better let it go.
Rod bearing spun , that's why the cap and crank shaft was dry in that spot .
I just replaced a bearing and it's doing great
Thank You 🙏🏽
You're welcome.
weak oil pump can cause oil starvation at idle or a restriction. probably should have replaced oil pump to
Spun the bearing and when that happens that little oil port hole in the bearings misalign and close off. Then the crank journal REALLY starves on oil and it ovals off the rod journal on the crankshaft. Sometimes you can get lucky and only change the rod bearings and your ok. But it depends on how long you run the vehicle after it starts knocking
What would you consider “running to long?” After the knock?
Yes how long would that be because I just screwed up royally
If you stop immediately when the knock appears you May have luck and save the engine, if you drive the car even a few km with the knock the crank gets ruined and goodbye engine
@gillespriod5 Not necessarily goodbye engine but new crankshaft new bearings
if no oil, it was a problem of oil circulation.
when you putted off the old piece, you noticed the absence of oil... you should have concluded the oil circulation was blocked on this piece... you should have pushed with air or with anything through the oil hole to disblock it...
since the oil circuit was not cleaned there, the new piece was not oiled... so it soon came to ashes like the other one and the sound came back.
The way tht bearing was damaged sure the crankshaft too must have..total overhaul necessary for the engine...
Unfortunately, yes, you're right
Good video
Car made noise and turned off and havent turned it on since, its best to get new engine? And if it messed up due to oil starvation, im sure the rest of the cranks gonna mess up too eventually or theres damaged components throughout the engine just awaiting to mess up? I would drive recklessly😂 need answers
Update?
Any updates!!!??
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