GM Reduced Engine Power Mystery Solved
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- čas přidán 3. 02. 2016
- Loads of GM owners are getting the death message "reduced engine power" on the dash - Mark wants to know the exact root cause of this well known issue so he takes the throttle body apart and puts it under the microscope. Want to save yourself time and money - you only need to change one part.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
This has to be the best video I've ever watched on youtube, I mean the time, patience and diligence to problem solving can't be compared to anything. this guy deserves a job at GM in the RND section.
Thanks Aber - Cheers from Canada!
I am an Automotive Specialist. I enjoyed your video. GM throttle bodies are notorious for several different problems. A common one is the Reduced Engine Power light illuminating as you described, which is basically a limp mode where you can barely go 5 mph. It happened to me in my GMC box truck. Also I commonly see slow throttle response or erratic RPM's and high idle. All late model GMs to my knowledge can be relearned via a Snap On scan tool, Mac, etc. or as I used when I worked for GMC a TECH2. Sometimes cleaning the throttle body and doing a relearn corrects the issue, but unfortunately not always. I was told these were non-serviceable, so if the part you described is serviceable, you taught me something. In my opinion given the varying complaints with GM throttle bodies, sometimes it's best to replace the assembly. Too often some one tries to fix one issue and the other issue develops not long after. Take care.
Adam Czajka
As you can see from the defect in the video it may cause different problems depending on other parameters like engine size, fuel mapping etc
carquestions Thanks Im glad I know now Its serviceable.
Sorry for the late reply (6 years wow)- but thanks for the info - very helpful - Cheers from Canada!
Life secret. 😂@@carquestions
Finally a real mechanic, one who fixes the root rather than replacing the part as a whole.
Thanks Morty - cheers!
Thanks brother. You are providing a great service to all us average folks who can no longer afford GM's outlandish pricing on parts and labour.
Anytime Terry!
If you look at the cover as it comes off the sensor right next to where the white gear would fit there is a little moveable slot in the cover. You tap the screwdriver near it from about 1:20 to 1:26 in your video. When replacing the sensor this slot has to be lined up correctly to calibrate the part as it is installed prior to installation. What happens is people cleaning an installed throttle body MOVE the butterfly valve while cleaning the throttle body when it is still installed on the engine. Doing this breaks the little post and throws off the sensors positioning. When the positioning is read as off standard by the engines computer control module the information in the ECM is shared by the vehicles transmission and other shared sensors in the same diagnostic. This can include the Transmission Sensors and The O2 as well as the MAP sensor. Having caused the Throttle Position Sensor to have malfunctioned by moving the butterfly inside the throttle body when cleaning it while installed is what causes the sensor to break. It can cause your Check stability system, traction control fault, reduced engine power messages to display on GM driver information messages and cause your vehicle to go into "limp mode". People attempting to clean the inside of a throttle body while installed on a GM Vehicle should never attempt to move the butterfly valve while cleaning the throttle body. The TPS error can also cause your transmission to not operate properly with either hard or harsh shifting, loss of 3rd or 4th gear and malfunction of the torque converter leading to lockup and unlock problems and problems with the clutch inside the torque converter itself.
David C: This is great information and sounds exactly what I am experiencing... You Said: "It can cause your Check stability system, traction control fault, reduced engine power messages to display on GM driver information messages and cause your vehicle to go into "limp mode"." EXCEPT... I never did anything to the Throttle Body... I DID change my Transmission Fluid (just drain and refill) and now the "Service My PosiTrac" and "Engine Reduced Power" lights come on sporatically. They do not stay on though. Question: What could I have done during a simple Trans Fluid change to cause this?? Thanks for any advice!
Wrong;
The motor also moves the plate, via the gears. This does NOT break it.
From what I see: The gears move that in normal operation, as does your hand. The sensor can't tell if the motor or your hand moved it.
The only thing that might be damaged is the geartrain (damaged tooth or spun gear press fitting)
Mr K L
watching this video saved me big time.. I was going to spring 300 + for a new throttle body. I watched this and ordered a new tps off of amazon for 50 buck and problem solved... NO more check engine light or reduced power mode!! Thank you so much.....
Love it when thing work out eh?
2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 with reduced power problem. I changed the entire throttle body assembly with no results to solve the problem. Where do I go to next to fix this problem?
@@davidwood5733 How's the Silverado now? Have you looked into the accelerator pedal sensor?
@@tinytim9453 it did not pull that code up, so not suspecting it at this time. I ran out of money replacing parts for right now. It pulled up 13 codes ranging from throttle body, misfire, O2 sensor (up stream), and other that I don’t remember. I replaced the plugs, wires, and throttle body assembly with no change. It idles ok but drives less than 1/4 mile before going back to reduced power and shutting down.
I have 2018 Buick regal sportback and have same problem keeps coming up reduced engine power , I put a new throttle body then a new crankshaft position sensor and then a new map sensor and still says reduced power mode and won’t go away. Also has another code for 5V circuit which I cannot figure out either can anybody help???? I can’t keep buying parts I checked wiring harness and everything is okay
RE: The small adjustable pliers you are using @5:28 - I'm an electronics tech and I purchased my first pair of them 30 years ago. If I remember correctly, they are called "ignition pliers". They are one of the most useful tools I've ever owned. You're the only other person I have ever seen using them. I think that most people look at them and figure they'll never have a use for them. Once you buy one, you'll wonder how you ever lived without it. Nice post-mortem on that TPS sensor. Know why something failed, rather than just knowing it failed, is invaluable.
Yes they are ignition pliers - you needed them for removing / adjusting points and condensers on some cars - Like you, I'd say I use these pliers as much or more than full size ones on a weekly basis
Very nice job diagnosing the problem. We have replaced the TPS every year, and on one occasion, the stealer got us for $600. Thank you for a nicely done video and explanation.
No problem
Great post. GM uses this technology all over their vehicles. My '04 GMC started blowing hot air only on one side of the dual zone A/C system. There are 3 of these modules on the A/C system. I found the one that controlled the hot/cold "diverter door" it was just like what you found in the throttle sensor! And, distorted the same. I cleaned it up, made some adjustments and was able to make it work. Not a permanent fix but good enough for now. Moral of the story is that making a half moon variable resistor this way is not the way to go, and I bet they still use it today!
It always amazes me with these cars how something so tiny, one little itty bitty part, can cause such a huge annoying problem. Great job diagnosing and pinpointing the problem! Very educational and enlightening video.
Thank you
carquestions Have a 2012 Malibu Ltz with the 3.6 vvt v6 in it, seems like when it is super hot outside, my car has no power when taking off, had it to the dealer many many times, but they can never seem to find the problem. could I have the same problem? P.S. the car had 12k miles on it, and has been doing it since then, now it has 66k on it.
Problem: Gas engine throttle body keeps breaking.
Solution: Diesel engine.
Grumpy Hermit Not so much..... diesel injector pumps are notorious for going south in a very expensive way.
Grumpy Hermit Not so much..... diesel injector pumps are notorious for going south in a very expensive way.
Bro love the detail. Since I was a kid i was never happy that my toy worked. Until I tore it down and understood what makes it work then if I got it back together id play with them. Made my folks furious almost every Christmas but they eventually came around and started buying me tools instead of the expensive Rc cars and what not. Great video well done
Your story reminds of one Christmas where I got the invisible V8 at age 8 - I didn't follow the instructions exactly - I got it all together though - but was disappointed it wouldn't spin and have all the parts move like it was supposed to - I then realized I had glued the pistons in the cylinders - cried for 2 days mom said - Cheers from Canada and thanks for the memories Donny!
I feel smart just by watching this.
And a huge thumbs up for you good Sir.
Thanks
Like my father did it. Go on until you find the tiny faulty part and then fix that. Those were days that materials were expensive and labor was cheap.
That's right - find the root cause or you haven't fixed a damn thing
Even if you end up having to replace a bigger assembly, always confirm the fault cause, or the customer is likely to be back and unhappy (even if you DIY, having to redo a fix is annoying and expensive)
Brilliant examination technique(s) & explanation!....helps to have all the right equipment as well!
I searched all over for a throttle body sensor. It was like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Just went ahead and bought a new throttle body. Thanks for the wisdom.
I'm 7 years late to see this video lol, glad I got to see the inner workings of this sensor. My truck is experiencing the reduced engine power message when I get it under a load, even more noticed when cold outside. This seems to most likely the problem per all the different videos and message boards I have seen. They are easy to do, just hope it fixes my problem. Thanks for taking us along and showing the in-depth view of this little monster that can cause so much frustration.
Straight to the point! Thank you for not telling us what you did 2wks before filming your video!
Sometimes that helps people who are dealing with certain troubling issues to explain why he is fixing what he is fixing. But I agree, it was nice to watch a video like this and not hear a 10 minute rant about something that isn't exactly what the video is about more of the cause that created the video.
Wow! This is exactly the kind of videos I like for car work. Very thorough investigation
Thanks Brody!
I just love your "microscope"!! A magnifying glass!
But then you redeemed yourself with a real 'scope shortly thereafter! Kudos!
Well, I watched the whole video and your findings where impressive... thank you for finding a cause. You where very diligent!
Thank you. Your patience and persistence in finding a deeper cause is highly appreciated. amazing. extremely helpful
Anytime Miguel
Wow...great find on your behalf. I salute you for your perseverance. Thanks for the effort and I will watch out for that issue on these.
Will do lonestar - thanks
If you have HIDs, a bad ballast can backfeed into the electrical system and make the throttle body sensor go haywire causing the dreaded "reduced engine power" also.
Down here in southern Louisiana it's the humidity that really trips our solstice into reduced power. we still haven't figured out how th alleviate the situation. Very grateful for your thorough look at the tps.
Could be your issue
Thanks so much for this. I have a 2007 Buick Lucerne CX with the 3.8L V6, and I have gotten this message several times. When I shut the car down for a coupe hours, the message goes away and everything is normal. But it keeps coming back! So I'm going to tell my mechanic that's it''s the TPS, the "throttle position sensor", one of the four sensors in the throttle body is damaged. I see one of the comments below states that you have to replace the entire throttle body, that only a dealer (who charges you an arm and a leg) would have this part. This mechanic in the video does make one mistake, before he takes the TPS apart and finds the problem, he call the TPS a TPMS, which is a completely different sensor and has to do with your tire pressure sensors. He usually says "throttle position sensor", for TPS, when he finds the problem. Still a great video.
Ya mistake with the TPMS - ment TPS - also you can buy this part at many parts stores it is not a dealer only item - cheers!
Your right about that part. I have a video showing what my truck was doing and the dealer wanted to keep charging me to change out whatever they would guess was the issue. It turned out to be the harness ground wire, it had detached inside the isolation and so it would connect sometimes and disconnect at other times. Found the wire at the back where it runs behind the engine to the throttle body. Cut and connected a new wire and it was fixed.... Haven't had an issue since. But that's all after the dealership charged me via milking my wallet of over 1800 dollars
Ouch!
Thank you for putting this video it help us a lot we almost went and bought the complete assembly watching your video saved us 200 dollars . I was surprised on how many people go threw this problem with there vehicles and all are gm anyway I just wanted to thank you ill give a update in a few weeks after its put on we had to order the TPS.
Awesome video Dude!! Former auto prototype tech here. "The 'best' technician properly repairs the old part." (Bernie Howard- Detroit Diesel /superintendent)
You, me and my buddy Matt want to know the 'root cause' -- I pride myself on my skills to "restore" over replace parts. Mostly because I'm poor, but I like the challenge too.
Thanks Franco - keep on fixin!
The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) you can take a rubber eraser and clean that up the contacts and possibly reuse it. It would appear there is resistance in that sensor which could be your problem.
Nice! True mechanic in depth look at the real problem not just changing the part out like SO many people these days
You sir are a GENIUS I have a cobalt ss been getting the P2135 periodically than I got that and another P2101 but only had the reduced engine power twice, cleared the codes and ran fine for a while till yesterday, it kept doing it over and over barely made home. Jumped on youtube and found your video replaced the entire throttle body with position sensor RUNS GREAT, I do believed that was the issue thank you so much for your posting.
Excellent result Deputy
Great video. It was nice seeing a tear down of the assembly and seeing the problem under a microscope. But as a automotive diagnostic specialist I can tell you that you could also have found the problem without taking the unit off the car by using lab scope to monitor the TP sensors' signals during a sweep test. The motor armatures can also be checked while still on the vehicle by using a lab scope with a low current amp probe.
Chris - the car's own diagnostics pinpointed the sensor so no need - I just wanted to see exactly how it failed internally so I opened it up
***** The car's OBD2 system will tell you what circuit the problem occurred on, but does not tell you if it's the ECU, the harness, or the sensor itself.
I miss the days of the old throttle body's simple cable from pedal to throttle body The biggest problem we used to have was just a bad throttle position sensor not anymore.
You cant buy just the plastic piece, ect throttle bodies are "non serviceable" lots of great info in your vid, ty
Thank you for the work you did and taking the time to find the problem. Finally something that can be looked at getting made better to resolve the issues, if we can ever be so lucky. Excellent job, thank you so much. Can make repairs myself know and save the money,
You're very welcome Rachel
Bravo! Absolutely brilliant and thorough sleuthing, especially considering the minute parts harboring the defect so easily overlooked by the naked eye. Seems possibly a manufacturing defect of the flex circuit, a film split allowing the flow-solder bath to fuse the contacts before assembly. If such problem solving isn't a part of your daily work, it should be. I can imagine QC inspectors detecting only a tiny percentage in their production samples, and possibly deeming it an acceptable defect rate. As automotive systems enter the complexity realm of aerospace...has the quality control also risen?
Quality control is really an accounting problem these days if you know what I mean
carquestions Planned obsolescence, built to a cost.
carquestions m
Despite what people may think, yes, QC _is_ better than it was.
Many of these parts are individually inspected/tested by a machine as they exit their manufacturing line and unlike people, they don't make judgement calls or get lazy.
This is critical, because you'll find the same parts are used across hundreds of models from dozens of makers worldwide and the component suppliers get hit _hard_ by OEMs if faults are traceable back to defective batches.
Things _have_ to be rigidly QC checked, because vehicle assembly is so automated. The part that wasn't mentioned about taking factories from Detroit to Mexico was that old factory used to employ 11-12,000 people in Detroit, but produces twice as many vehicles in Guadalahara with only 1500 workers - moving them back to Detroit won't magically give 9000+ people their jobs back (and to be honest, humans are the single biggest cause of assembly defects. If it won't fit, bodge it)
The single biggest set of failure points in automotive electronics are the mechanical interfaces - connectors get water in them , things like this wiper fault which will be causing jittery readings that confuse the computer. or the O2 mass flow meter getting contaminated by intake air or a backfire, etc.
The water problem's been mostly solved first by fully sealed connectors and then by grease-filling them to ensure that if any leaks do occur there's no void for the water to get into. It's not at all unusual for a vehicle to run its entire 15 year service life (average world fleet) with no electronic faults at all.
That defective pot wiper is arguably a manufacturing fault but the level of redundancy in the contact points is such that losing a couple shouldn't matter. It's just unfortunate that the failure mode in this case will be generating crackle. If GM isn't aware of it they should be made aware.
15 year service life? HA! I have two 1993 vehicles in my driveway. They need care but all cars do. These make sense.
Absolutely the best video on CZcams in regards to TPS!! I myself tear apart any part I think is bad. There are so many that will hold their breath and disagree with this theory. The accelerator sensor is built exactly the same without the motor. All remind me of the fuel level sensor. Very basic to figure out. I rebuild parts of many types. I yet to be unsuccessful in repairing parts. From repairing motherboards to coils etc. I spend less in repairs then most. Sometimes it takes a min to figure out what it is. But time is cheaper than any parts these days. As I say a part is made it can be made again. I'm just a chick who loves fixing things. Thank you for this video!! If only I had the great tools and on air self esteem, I'd show you how I can too repair just about anything. Amazing!!
I have an identical twin - but if I didn't you'd be my first pick - I've fixed everything you can find since I was a child - Rule one for me was always find the root cause of why something failed. My second rule is to keep going till you find it. 3rd rule, the simple belief that if somebody built it, somebody else can fix it. Bank vaults are a good example, someone always built a new theft proof safe up until a bank robber found a way to pen it.
@@carquestions that's the same way I think. It's unbelievable the things that are so easy to fix. Sometimes it takes me time to walk away and come back. Maybe thats just because I'm not fully confident. Lol. Thank you for replying. I meant it when I said this is the best video!! I love it!!
@@carquestions I had a question if you don't mind. Have you ever made it repaired any rubber bushings on a suspension? Maybe you have, I haven't went through all of your videos. The reason I ask is because it seems to be a pretty big cost in buying new bushings. But in all actuality you can make or repair yours by using polyurethane caulking. It has to be the highest heat and the most flexible you can find. Maybe there's something else I'm not aware of. But I have done this for motor mounts etc.. one repair on a front suspension was done over 25,000miles ago and still is in great shape. I thought of you the other day doing a front suspension. Just was curious if you have or haven't. If you have maybe you can give me some advice in any products recommended. Sometimes it's hard to decide which is the best.
It's nice to know the root cause of my 100,000 mile mystery. I've replaced the throttle body assembly twice now, seems to be every 100,000 miles... And unfortunately, the sensor is riveted to the throttle body... Recently, a new issue caused Reduced Engine Power on my 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, Code P1125... replaced the accelerator pedal assembly w/sensor to resolve. Thank you for tearing the issue down to the component level... these sensors with fingers appear to be the culprit.
Ya - the fused fingers cause a dirty signal - causing a fault
Great video, good detective work. GM has figured out the weak point other than wiring and now makes a repair kit. I noticed a lot of posters were asking for a part # Dorman makes a kit as does AC Delco, like for a 2009 Chevy PU part # 19259452, can get on Amazon or Rock Auto for $29.95, GM also has service bulletin for this repair with color pictures. The last wiring harness I bought I think was $118 and all the wires were white. I have replace a lot of harness connectors and TB units in the past, very expensive and stupid for the consumer. All in the name of emissions and saving the catalytic converters. Why are we so lucky? South Main Auto shows a 25 min YT video on the actual kit installation, if anyone wants a look see. Keep up the sleuthing.
thanks for the info
carquestions what's the name of that part what do I ask for
Dr. Seymour Butts tps. Throttle position sensor
I've tried the dorrnan ones, you couldn't give me a while box car full of them!dormans electronics quality sucks! Everyone I do comes back! I've had countlees dorman cam solenoids come in causing idle surge and stalling issues. Dorman products are cheaper for a reason..... Did the math!
Iam a electronics technician and this guy has great technical skills 👍
thanks Les - and Cheers from Canada!
Tahoes have severe issues with these. Awesome video Sherlock Holmes! Microscope was brilliant.
Thanks Toy
Very happy that the supplier (VDO) (SKF) (Bosch) (Magneti Marelli) (Hitachi) etc, have all made the parts easily disassembled, in order to be able to replace micro components.
Good to know - thanks
WOW! When you began showing the good fingers and i knew you were going to show the bad finger I had to turn off the video. My hands were trembling and my brow was sweating. I had to swallow hard and sit down in order to calm down enough to turn the video back on...INTENSE! Great Video!
Thanks John - Cheers from Canada!
You sir are a genius. Thankyou for your dedication to this subject.
Anytime
throttle cables worked fine for over 100 years and are cheaper.
Agreed Howdy
There's a reason cars now last to 200k miles and have twice the power for a given displacement and a fraction of the emissions.
The reason isn't DBW lol
My 2003 cts 3.2 has 215000. Still runs amazing. I take care of it that's why
@KelMaster Construction I got one cheap..Basket case.200k miles. Gave it away
It could do with a good clean. $50 on ebay for my GM TB 1.4 Lecatti (daewoo) I looked at the old one and it's perfectly serviceable. I'll get into the motor part and clean that too. Useable spare! Thanks.
The guy that replaced it said he had to re-map the ACU (puter) But at $50 it's running well..
you sir are a mechanic. there are so many parts changers. and a lot of people dont know the difference. thank you for the time troubleshooting this. i have no use for it now, but i bet i will. thank you for the upload i enjoyed it.
Anytime Tom
Mechanics are not allowed to fix anything any more. They are simply part cluster replacers. It is the same with small and large appliance repair techs too. Then the part sometimes costs more than replacing the whole appliance/ car/ whatever. I wanted to have the engine and transmission overhauled in a Nissan truck I had for years. I could find no one to do the job, and the parts were no longer available anyway. Planned obsolescence is the bane of our economy.
Take heart - people will always find a way
As is said " fire the parts canon at it"
Steve from Texas totally untrue, I perform autopsies on all of the components I suspect.. granted, there aren't many of us out there.. but if you're willing to pay.. I'll show you how it's done. ;)
Took my 2010 Focus into have some work done on it, didn't require any new parts, thankfully. The so called technician noted that the Engine Light was on, found that the top O2 sensor wasn't reading, DAH, the wire was chewed into by a rabbit. Told him to splice the wire back together, "how do I do that?" makes one wonder just how competent these so called mechanics really are, can they ever change out parts?
Yeah, I had the same problem with an older Nissan.
Here's a update
We just wanted to say thank you for putting your video on CZcams it help us a great deal not only did it save us a lot of money and time in a garage it saved our car my husband just put it on and it's running great cause right before he replaced the TPS the message came on reduce engine power
but now we are on I-40 on our way home to Gallup NM From Albuquerque NM
the reason we had to come pick up the Throttle Positoin Sensor and our car is running great so everyone that's going threw the same problem just buy the part (tps) he is showing you on the video and it'll be worth it your car will run great it'll only take 15 to 20 minutes to take off clean and replace.
And just the sensor can be purchased at autozone or have it ordered
Car questions
Great news Rachel - cheers!
You are amazing. Thanks for the forensics, not many true mechanics can do this like you did. I love to see what goes on with problems that crop up on these engines. I have one now a 2004 trailblazer that intermittently misfires, kinda jerks and starts shaking and then levels out but it does this over and over, not sure if it is a coil , plug, or some sensor or even in injection problem.
Check fuel pump pressure when this is happening - it is often a cause
Thanks, i remember getting some fuel at a ruddy looking gas station and felt maybe this fuel is not any good so after that i had this problem come up. It comes and goes so i think it is in the fuel like water or trash or some other chemical or fluid of some type.
@@carquestions
I changed out the plug and it started again, i went to pick and pull and bought 5 solenoids and put one on and no more engine light and no more misses. @@carquestions
Awesome video! My buddy has a 2003 Silverado with intermittent low power light. All the data checks out and the wiring is good. We cleaned the throttle body but every once in a while he looses accelerator control with a P1515. I'm going to take this apart tomorrow.
Great - let me know what you find Tank!
Way to go sir! Im an auto, light truck, heavy truck, semi truck, tractor, agriculture, construction, mechanic. In my opinion my circle of repair is to big but its what my customers want and bring to me. Chevy has had the same problem for years on with the fingers on there fuel senders also. Love the video and thanks for the tip! You have a great way of presenting your videos! God bless you.
Thanks for the comment Jonathan
Great video thanks for your perseverance.im sure you have helped alot of us save time , money and hair 😀
This is why I prefer the classics ,thanks for the awesome knowledge you radiate ✌🇺🇸
Thank you for taking the time to educate us with this headache.
Anytime Kevin - hope it helped
The reason you are seeing different readings while turning the commutator is due to position of contact from the brushes through the windings. If you measure resistance from each winding it should be the same on all windings. The best check is to see if any of the windings are shorted to the shaft/ground OR to each other.
Also, a permanent magnet motor will generate voltage spurs as you move it, so it must settle still to get your reading. Also, when the brushes cross two segments, you will be reading a different number of segments...
Thank you so much for this detective work. I have had so much trouble with this type of "Made in Germany" throttle body, even in brand new ones not operating correctly. And they are used in $70,000 to $80,000 dollar Cadillac's. These TBs should have contact-free optical sensors inside, not that magic finger garbage. This is one of the many reasons why GM vehicles have a reputation for being unreliable.
Thanks for the comment - cheers!
Very good information. Great Detective work. Thank you so much for your intelligent work.
Thanks for the time you’ve taken for us owners
Great detective work! I have experienced many failed TPS assemblies on GM throttle bodies and never knew why. The 'fly by wire' concept is great and if it were implemented without crap parts like the GM TPS, it would be a great benefit to automotive ownership. Unfortunately it IS crap and is not reliable. This makes me wonder what autonomous vehicle technology is going to bring? Will it be expensive, reliable hardware and software or built cheap / sell cheap / who cares how well it works down the road? It will be interesting to see.
You make a very good point Bob - if they make them like this I don't won't to ride in one
I like the part where he said “I’m not a electronic expert”😃
Yea he sure fooled me, great info...
Imagine if he" were"..? 👻😎😂
Just an engineer lol. He knows more than a lot of electronics experts!!!!
Thank you !!! This was giving me a headache... i have clean the throttle body, replaced the injectors on my 07 tahoe... nothing worked .... I have already got a new Throttle body with TPS... on it ... I don't care about the extra money i just want a smooth idle again and max power back !!! I will change this weekend !! Thanks again for the full understanding of whats going on inside the unit !!!!
It could also be wiring related don't forget - hope it helps good luck and let me know how you make out
this was the first video that I've ever seen you have and you definitely impressed me finding the problem in the throttle position sensor like that under a microscope and a laptop that was genius I definitely subscribed and like and I would definitely want a lot more of your videos I am an owner of a shop for 10 years now I will definitely use you a lot more thank you for making these videos
Thanks - anytime Rob - knowledge is power they say
you sir are as f'n genius I personally salute you I owe you a debt of gratitude
Hope it helps you B
Great investigative work!
Far more intense that most folks would have done. I bet the manufacturer already knows this and are making a small fortune on replacement parts LOL!
I think your right Bill - Cheers from Canada!
Nice Job. Those feelers are very common to failing. Same concept as the fuel level sensor
same for me, you gained me as a subscriber, due to your tenacity to get to bottom of problem. Very Nice Work and kudos to you.
Thanks George - Cheers!
Great work in finding the problem! This is part of the reason why I think cable operated throttle body is better. You also don't have that response lag.
Sorry to say that FBW is here to stay
Yes, no doubt. I actually did away with the FWB throttle body on an LS swap I performed not too long ago. I swapped in a 6.0 LS2/4L65e out of a '06 GTO in my '87 Monte SS. Aftermarket Edelbrock 101 mm throttle body and drive by cable. PSI did the tuning.
Very enlightening. Thanks much for the great video. 👍👍👍👍👍😊
I can't tell you how many times I spent money trying to fix my 2004 Chevy suburban. Always getting reduced power mode and always codes came up as bad throttle body. Finally had it fixed and it wasn't the throttle body at all. It was a cracked intake manifold gasket which was made from plastic. Replaced it with a felt gasket and no more problems.
Good point Shanon - there are various other issues like wiring and leaks that need to be eliminated first before blaming the TB unit -
carquestions oh trust me. All that was changed/checked as well. I probably spent more to fix it than what the truck was worth.
Sorry to hear that - when something or some brand lets me down I don't buy from them again - try Toyota
Thanks for your thorough inspection of the throttle body and throttle position sensor.
Glad it was helpful Oliver - Cheers from Canada!
Impressive analysis! Thank you for sharing your work.
You just saved me 1,673.72 that’s how much they where charging me at the dealer
Thank you. Im one of the many irritated car owners tired of having to drive to work at 10 mph and near NO acceleration when the car decided to be a pain. Still don't understand what was wrong with a cable between the gas peddle and the throttle body. People making things complicated for complexity's sake irritates me.
They switched over to fly by wire so they could let the computer control the throttle for traction control etc - not easy to do with a cable - but ya - lots of people want the cable back
Thanks for passing the knowledge around!
I'm looking into this for a neighbor, and noticed that some of the aftermarket throttle bodies use contactless Hall Effect sensors instead of these contact-based potentiometers. For those who don't know, Hall Effect sensors use magnets and measure the strength of the magnetic field (which increases/decreases based on distance between the magnets); while potentiometers measure electrical resistance between the contacts (resistance increases/decreases based on the amount of surface contact). Potentiometers are common because they are cheap (especially these days....), but unfortunately they also wear out faster due to friction.
TL;DR Buy an aftermarket model with a Hall Effect sensor instead of this cheap contact crap, it will save you future headache.
magnets wear out too.
@@hungryhungryhummer It takes much, _much_ longer for those magnets to wear out though.
Man, you’re a genius!!! This is the best examination and explanation! Thanks for the knowledge. Other than my dad, who’s an ASE automotive instructor, you definitely know your craft.
Thanks Anthony - cheers from Canada!
The best part of all is the dealer probably won’t just sell that part you’ll have to buy the whole TPS or throttle body anyways.. what an awesome video though that’s the way to do it get super in depth and figure out the actual problem! Very nice!!
Thanks Eddie
I knew it was that part when you first opened it up. Those are the mos fragile part under the cover. It's the same with guitars and amps, the potentiometers - what that is - corrode or just give out from constant use. Good job.
Thanks for the comment always
Thanks a ton for this video. Very good info. I had my throttle body on my 2013 chevy cruze and after replacing it I tore it apart and this is exactly what my issue was.
Thanks for the confirmation Robbie - Cheers from Canada!
Just another reason for regular cable operated throttle with TBPS. No electrical motors. The more electronics the engineers jam under the hood the more expansive the repair are. Just because they can does not mean they should.
You got a point there Micky
micky dee they didn't want to keep it cable because they're testing the ground work for self driving cars. Just think they'll be wrecking all over the place and bursting into flames.
More than a point, he makes more sense than automakers. I have a 93 Cadillac that came out before the fly by wire systems came out. I like being able to work the TBI manually plus, it won't break in some inane manner.
Throttle position sensors have been failing long before drive by wire came along.
Drive by wire allows them to add things like traction/stability control easily. It is probably cheaper since it gets rid of cruise control components as well.
I already bought a complete throttle body for my 2007 Tahoe that had this problem today !! got a brand new OEM on eBay for $100 so I wasn't worried cause that's a good price ! but thanks for the video , very informative !!
Glad to help - good luck
I just hope your new oem is really oem. Have seen a few parts in what looks like the right oem box and outwardly look perfect. When they failed and we took them apart they were nothing like the oem part. Either GM completely changed the internal parts only or they were knock off.
At 6:48 you said "back to the TPMS sensor", I chuckled a little and thought "TPS" cause no way the Tire pressure sensor was in play. Lol... Great video. Thank you!
Dano - I need a nurse no question
Use a hair dryer when removing some fasteners held in with blue loctite. Just did a TPS on a Ford van. I read the instructions AFTER I broke one of the Torx screws. The second one came out like butter once I put a little heat to it. Hope this helps.
Good tip TB -thanks
Excellent investigative work! Sub'd.
Thanks J
J. Hunto's Garage u subbed for the wrong reason fake news
I had the same issue. GMC Acadia. I ordered correct part from autozone, but I made sure not to get factory ac delco. I bought American made bosch. A new throttle body and sensor. Was an easy swap with no dis mantling of sensor unit. For under 200$ and 45 minutes of my own time it was easy. Do not use any glue of any sort, this is a swap out and retorque job. Reconnect the battery and she drives with better throttle control than before! I do not recommend rebuilds because, you can find other places to save money on ...like bringing lunch from home for the week.
Good advice
Great video. I like your Xytronic soldering station. I have the exact same one. Best soldering setup I've ever owned.
Thanks Fire - it has never let me down and that is the best compliment for any product
Thank you, I learn something everyday.
I had this problem on my 2010 chevy Impala and I replaced just that part and it fixed it thanks buddy
No problem - glad to help
What’s that part called?
I had this drama with mine. Alloytec motor. Safety mode. When the throttle body gets old, the seal around the black plastic part shrinks. I washed my motor and a few beads of water got in there. Dried it out, cleaned off the verdigris, then sealed it with some silicone gasket when I put the black plastic cover back on. Good as gold.
Good Tip Anarch - thanks!
Enjoyed your video...something good to think about. Import cars such as my 2004 350z. Replaced new MAF Sensor, was bout to spend money on accelerator pedal position sensor. After seeing what all you gone thru with this, I may look into getting the TPS T/B for this fix. My car has a slow response when pushing the gas pedal to the floor, no check engine light using AutoZone scan reader, couple days prior I even bought their AutoZone MAF sensor,...the slow accelerator response still did not go away. May need to go to Nissan for that MAF sensor then. Thanks for sharing!
Exige - you need to get the TPS checked with an oscilloscope if possible and closely inspect wiring, grounds and connections.
Great Job! How can 457 people give this video a thumbs down? I suppose it was so obvious to them what the problem was, they felt like you wasted their time watching it. Yeah Right! Sub'd!
Thanks JPC - cheers
457 gm engineers.
1:38 i don't know if I believe he's a car guy after he just took that gear off without playing with it even a little.
Clearly he cut that part out haha
Very impressive diagnostics. Thank you.
I'd be surprised if this was actually the problem and it actually fixed this car... I got the orange triangle of death two weeks ago and changed everything from the accelerator position sensor to the tps to the throttle body to... No matter what I did it just keeps throwing different codes... Even went as far as changing things that were completely unrelated in hopes that the ecm was throwing a false code... After about $1000 bucks and countless hours trying to fix it I have officially given up... Never let anything in life whoop me... But this just whooped me 🤷.... If this did fix the issue, good for you! That's awesome!!! I'm glad you were able to figure yours out before getting too deep into it... Sure wish some one had a trick up their sleeve that I haven't attempted yet...
The only thing you didn't change was the wiring - chafing, and pin connections is the first thing to check
It's very likely the dealership, salvage yard, etc... sells only the whole throttle body at an exurbanite price.
Shame it's not the 50s, 60s where you could get parts repaired (improved).
You can get it separate in certain areas depending on the model but hard to find
I just want him to show me how to hook up that microscope because I have one of those 🤣🤣🤣
Excellent work! Thanks. Ultra-precise electronics usually ends up increasing cost of production and ownership, but the manufacturer makes more money on both ends, the government gets more tax money and the banks make more loans. I'm subscribed, I'll be back.
Thanks Frank!
This video was amazing and amazingly thorough. As an engineering student I really appreciated this!
This is super common on all the 3.6 GM engines, and even the 5.3's. Especially when the weather changes from hot to cold. I see this regularly at a GM dealer. Changing the TB is the fix ~60% of the time, not the wiring. 39% of the time the root cause is the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. The remaining 1% might be wiring related, but that's typically obvious damage from a rodent or thing similar.
Finally, someone else who knows what they are talking about.
Thanks! If you ever need to buy just the TPS and stepper motor cover, and you want it OEM not aftermarket you may need to go to the shop counter (not the retail counter) and ask for the repair for the bulletin. The Silverados have a cheap repair part, but the catalog only lists a complete Throttle body replacement until you look up bulletins in the VIS by VIN on GM Global.
Thanks for the insight Chris
+Chris Lesmerises Thanks for that info.
IN MY OPINION.. IT'S A 50% VS 50% PERCENT, APPS VS THE TB FIX ...