FIXED my 2004 6L Silverado. Could not go 2 miles without the "reduce power" and codes coming on. Did exactly as shown and it has been running great for weeks now. Awsome!!
Same, last week I got hit with a engine light and reduced power and couldn’t go more than 5-10mph and hand to pull over around the corner from where I was. After fixing the issue it runs like a Champ
Thank you for making this video. I have an 05 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 LS. I have been battling reduced power mode for nearly two years on and off. I have replaced everything correlated to the issue, including changing the throttle body 3 different times through warranty swaps. I followed this video to a T. Did it Yesterday 7/31/23. I am hoping this takes care of my problem. No issues so far. Unfortunately I will need to drive this for quiet a while, but I feel really good about this. GM in these years are known to have weak grounding issues and I think this video really illustrates the importance of having a good ground for your vehicle. 777boatman if your ever in Tucson AZ I will buy you a beer brother, because I think you saved my ass! Fingers crossed. Thanks again!
Update on the vehicle. 8/2/23 truck went into reduce power mode, after making these ground points. Backstory. I have replaced the TPS sensor twice, rewired and soldered the lines to the pigtail to the TPS sensor. I have swapped the pedal positioning sensor. I have replaced the tach module. I have replaced the throttle body three times ACDelco each time. Codes are P2135 and P0120. I created the same ground points as this video. Unfortunately it did not work. I am completely out of ideas at this point... If there's anybody who reads this comment and has had the same issues and has a solution, please elaborate. Thank you.
Hopefully you learned about the ground point to the frame below the core support, drivers side for the computer next to battery. Follow the aux. neg. battery cable to it. Also clean the two ground points below drivers seat. Pull back the plastic conduit to make sure both ground wires are solid connection to the eyelet as sometimes 1 wire can break off and not seen. Then check the small black/white stripe ground wire that breaks off behind passenger head. I connected that wire to firewall ground stud on drivers side. A wire brush on the drill works great to clean frame connections. Hopefully this helps someone.
In my case, after cleaning the throttle body and running ground wires, the scan tool still gave me 17 codes relating to the TPS, the accelerator sensors, etc. so I knew the problem was not in the throttle body. After checking the wiring harnesses again, I found out a rodent had chewed on two wires going to the control module next to the brake cylinder. It was hard to see but that was it. Fixing those two wires saved me a ton of money.
I have been trying to figure this problem out for months. For the last month it wouldn't come out of reduced power mode. This seems to have fixed the problem. You made this girl so happy. I'm able to drive my baby again.
Thanks for the video. I’m gaining a new appreciation for the importance of good grounding. First, the 4wd selector quit, and the problem proved to be the ground terminals under the driver door. Later, the rear wiper quit working, and I fixed it by putting a ground jumper from the wiper motor to the latch mechanism. Now, I think the offending ground for the P1516 code appears to be related to the skinny ground cable from the battery to the front bumper mount on the drivers side. If the problem returns, I guess I’ll have to go crazy adding a bunch of redundant ground wires like you did.
I found the solution to this problem. I added more grounds to the frame motor etc and ended up replacing every single sensor related to the gas peddle and a new throttle body. Next i put in a whole brand new wiring harness in the car and a brand new pcm and could not fix the problem. I took it to a guy in Richmond va which had more advanced computers to diagnose the problem and he said that in my case it was like nothing he had ever seen before. He could not find what was causing this problem. So i unbolted everything gad peddle related and literally threw it in the woods and put the cable driven throttle cable on it. Problem is fixed now.
@@PolecatCreekGarage can you lead me in the right direction so I can convert to throttle by wire, I’m on my second throttle body and this last time my wife almost got in a wreck with my children in my truck and it’s not worth the risk.
@@thatsallfolks3115 i just went to the junkyard and bought a cable throttle body, and the entire gas pedal and cable itself. You then have to use a different computer and reprogram it to your vehicle, older model computers work pre 2003 and express van computers. Keep in mind this was an issue on my LS swapped 1970 elcamino so everything was modified.
If you have experienced the 'reduced power', 'loss of communication with throttle body' trouble codes and been unable to repair the issue like I was, take a look at this. I discovered that the throttle control module and overall throttle control system is quite complicated by necessity and actually is two redundant throttle systems working at the same time doing the same exact thing within the existing module and computer. The two throttle systems compare themselves to the other continuously and to operate they must see exactly the same values at every point. They do this to ensure that the throttle doesn't go haywire and create an erroneous full throttle situation or otherwise loss of throttle control. Herein is the problem, if the two side by side throttle systems compare themselves, which they do hundreds of times a second, and they see a different control voltage between the two systems they will immediately go into reduced power mode. This is a sporadic problem because it is grounding based. Somewhere a ground connection has been compromised. Sometimes the dealer will change out the throttle module and make a slightly better ground connection due to the nuts being removed and replaced or some such thing being done which jostles around the grounds and the systems work again for a bit but they come back because the actual problem wasn't solved. Creating a dedicated grounding path between the battery and the major components of computer, throttle module, and engine is the only way to correct for older wiring that is getting lose or ferrous oxide (rust) blocking the electricity from flowing in a mechanical connection. I cant confirm this but I seem to see the overall performance of the computer system as more thorough. for instance once the new ground system was installed and no throttle codes were present, one new code and low washer fluid message came up. The code was fuel evap system loss but turned out to be a leaking air gas cap so I replaced the cap and the washer fluid low message hadn't appeared for a very long time. Now there are no codes but what it seemed to indicate was that the computer was not operating at full capacity if a leaking air gas cap hadn't set a code for who knows how long. gas caps don't just go bad instantly I think. It was a long saga to solve this problem but the answer is to ground, ground, ground, and ground some more. Update: truck was recently sold June 2 2023 reduced power never returned since this grounding system was added.
I have code 2123,an2127 throttle pedal position sensor E high an I believe its D high I have changed the pedal,the conputer didnt recognize it,cat erases the codes, an still no throttle!!! Please help,been working on this car for months!! about to go crazy!! Car is an 2003 Vw golf 1.8 turbo
Interesting analysis. I’m only getting p1516 on the scanner but my abs light has been turning on occasionally. Makes me wonder what other trouble lurks in the background.
@Toni Weinberger I have the SAME PROBLEM with my 04 chevy 2500hd pickup , looks like I going to run new ground wires , chevy needs a recall they has a serious repair problem going with their vehicles.
MAN!!! You are a life saver (so far) I got the same code U0107 after I had the engine swapped. Spent three days at the dealership, was told my ignition switch was the problem, changed that and no improvement. I saw your video and added a ground from the battery to the TCM and to the firewall ground and another from the battery to the ECM. Its only been 24 hours but so sign of a fault at all.
@@207shenanigans I zip tied wire harness off of engine and thought I fixed it. But it returned. My battery is under the back seat I tried using jump cables to create a ground to throttle body and I still can’t erase code and get it out of reduced power mode. Traction control needs service and uo107 pop up simultaneously.
I have a 2005 Suburban 1500 5.3L that was giving me fits with the P1516 code. I had swapped some other parts (maybe needed or not) including the pedal sensor and throttle body, and even my alternator that was starting to go bad. Running new ground wires seems to have fixed my issue. Thank you!!
I want to thank you for this video. I was having the same issue with my suburban and what you did I did and so far it has done the job. Thank you thank you thank you
Thanks for this we tried everything to fix our 2004 Chevy Silverado replacing everything for something as simple as a ground wire was all it wire. Not had another problem since. Again thank you.
@@icutwood2473 This is a clue, however, if it went away longer than the usual (since you probably disturbed the connection or wire that is the actual issue.) Maybe trace back a bit more from what you did and try to refresh something there as well.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, I was resetting my code often even while driving. Today I couldnt get rid of the code it kept popping up after resetting it. Followed ur vid did the wiring and jus like that problem solved..What a relief.. Thank you again !!!!!!!!!!!
6/2/03 I have a 2004 silverado 5.3L with that same problem and 3 mechanics couldn't fix it. So I did your ground set up and it's been working fine . Thank you!!!!!
this worked for me i have a 2003 gmc yukon and i added the grounds to the computer and bam its worked so far so good i had been getting ruduce engine power and i had a p1518 code but yeah thanks again !!! fingers crossed this fixed it .. i also cleaned the 2 bolts under the driver door as they were a bit dirty
I feel that tone o voice brother I I was doin a transmission in my suburban then this issue followed but I see your lovely spider web and here I might have to go get a pro wire snip crimp multi cause I’m grounding my bithch like she missed curfew lol You sir are gent and a scholar! This video is not only holy gold GM info but literally THEE only piece of media info to have remedy in this 5.3 vortec communication issue
I've been chasing this gremlin for over 5 years, replaced a lot of parts, solved for a while then more codes. one day it all started when the truck wouldn't start one morning. bad ground to engine block. fixed that and then one thing after another. I'm going to do your suggestion and thanks for the post
Thank you for the info. really interesting and informative. I have a 07 2500 chevy that started missing . Not too bad but noticable .Started working on it replaced many of those parts you mentioned. Over time it became much worse..Finally would not run at all. This was after trips even to the dealer. What we found later was a broken ground strap that fixed this problem. Latest problem was a another reduced engine power. It now is at a dealer where they say a tac module not communicating with the throttle body. 725 .00 to fix it. This ground strap looks like the fix . I would add every thing pointed to throttle body issues all the time. Thank you for posting
Thanks for sharing this video. I just did this grounding setup on my 2003 Yukon. Was previously having Reduce Engine Power with code P1516 during snow or when it gets really cold. Cleared the codes and took it for a spin. No P1516, just knock sensor codes because I used cheap knock sensors when replaced the manifold gasket. It’s going to snow tomorrow and below zero temps the following day, so we shall see if this does it.
I have a 2004 gmc Yukon xl, 5.3l… I had the “reduced engine power” for awhile… I put a new throttle body, new acceleration pedal position sensor on the truck with the same problem… I had 2 very good mechanics look at my truck with the same problems…I didn’t think to look at a video from CZcams cause I didn’t think it would be a video worth watching so I let the truck sit up for almost 8 months (I have another yukon xl)… yesterday I went out to look at the truck, dirty as hell and was about to give up on the truck, but I finally pulled up this video, went out and did everything in this video to my truck and it fired up with no reduced engine power…I drove it around yesterday and to church today… I want to say THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO, it helped TREMENDOUSLY!!!!! BE BLESSED
GM figured out decades ago that the way to bring in dealer service revenues was crappy grounds. Think about it, every problem with wiring I've had was a ground wire. Not a hot wire or signal but a ground. All have had corrosion inside, not just at the ends.
This worked for me. We had a service truck that was deemed unfixable after others threw a new throttle actuator, actuator module, and tps didn’t fix it. Code for Lost communication to throttle actuator. The truck also had lights for brake booster and abs on the dash. After running aux grounds to ecm, alt bracket, firewall, and actuator control module on the firewall to battery ground, FIXED the multiple problems! The lights went away and the reduced engine power condition has yet to come back. The odometer even came back(always flashed various issues on lcd screen). Grounds are key to fly by wire engine components they make now. Now I run grounds to everything that needs one.
I did all the ground wiring EXACTLY like in the video, didn‘t work, then added another ground from TB to alternator bracket, also didn‘t work. It wasn‘t until then when I realised that the small black (with white stripes) cable on the passenger side of the engine was the culprit. This wire was already replaced on my truck, but the connection between the ground wire coming out of the harness and the replaced wire was made very poorly, so I cut it off and then ran a new ground wire from the original wire coming out of the harness to the alternator bracket. I could make the engine go into limp mode and throwing all the codes by wiggling this ground coming out of the harness, wish I would have done this earlier, would have saved me some bucks because I replaced the TB first and only the. started to run new grounds. Note: the terminal where the ground coming from the harness bolts on the engine was actually still feeling strong, but didn‘t want to take the risk of this failing in the future, therefore I ran it to the alternator bracket. Hope this helps anyone with the same problem.
I got caught years ago when the aluminium alternator housing and mounting brackets had enough oxidisation to insulate it from engine, aluminium is great stuff Always remember that it naturally oxidises to protect the metal from just dissolving, ask anyone who welds the stuff just because it worked when it was new or last week or after you cleaned it last means nothing, eventually the oxide layer can become extensive enough to totally electrically insulate it or as stated enough to cause voltage drop, I am always suspicious of any aluminium brackets etc and engines, by the general look of this engine bay its always going to be a problem 😉
I've got an 02 sierra 8.1 106k on it ..nice trk ..im gonna try this gronding method...been thru 3 throttle positioning sensors in a year ... now I'm getting a 1515 code ..reduce power...hope it works !!!
this does work....those grounds at the back of the block are important...chased a crank no start for all weekend once and it was that ground that was bad.....even if it looks clean take it off and check and clean it again..
Will be trying this on my silverado this weekend. I get random reduced power once in a while i would just disconnect my throttle body and connect it back up and keep on driving. But will be checking grounds this weekend and will be adding more and see if this helps.
I do auto electrical. I believe it's working because your providing the vehicle with proper ground, to the block and body. I don't think the cases to the modules or throttle need any type of ground.
Talking to my gm tech. There is a rebuild kit for the harness.... For mine, its the eight wires running from that new throttle body and harness I just replaced. He says you can rewire those from the throttle body to the Tac harness. They are so notorious, he says they offer the pins to rewire that tac harness at the parts shop or dealer. In a fit of complete rage this morning I cleaned up the grounds on the back of my block, the fire wall...and the two under the drivers side door. It's running again....seems to run better......I'm afraid to take it very far. I'm sure I will take the advice and rewire the tac.
While replacing the tbc, I didn't remove the old gasket. It looked like part of the throttle body as it was stuck on well. Grove in the new tbc seemed to match. Installed the tbc. Contacts inside were touching enough to run and give intermittent problems. Replaced the apc at this point then the emc. It wasn't until I removed the throttle body for cleaning that I discovered my mistake. Just a heads up
@@henry.g.9093 Well, when it goes into limp mode, it does 'misfire', but no, it wasn't caused by misfire. Actually, to update the situation: I installed ground wires to all components and it made absolutely no difference. I still think that could be a fix for some people, but as it turns out it was the actual TPS that was bad. I check, by visual inspection and tugging, the TPS harness, but found no issues. Finally, snipped harness, spliced in new one with the new TPS, VARROOOMMM....off to California we go! The TPS fixed the problem. To be fair, I had 200K on the Yukon. Also, I believe the pedal position sensor is going bad because now the vehicle surges on cruise control or at constant speeds as if they are still not quite talking to each other perfectly. Thought I would go away, but after 4K hasn't. Should the code occur anymore, I will replace that next.
The extra battery itself isn't needed is it? I mean can't you just run good grounds from the frame and the firewall to all those areas instead? I have a 2011 Silverado 4.8L that I added a turbo to and if you rev it while cold then it will go into limp mode (so the tuner told me). I fortunately do not rev any of my engines when not warmed up, but I had already planned on adding more grounds to the truck because I heard a while back that the stock grounds are crap.
Wondering if anyone can help. I ran the grounds just like in this video. However the wire I ran from my negative battery terminal to the TAC module is an issue. The tac module on my truck is plastic and not metal like yours in the video. Any way to get around this to ensure the TAC module has ground?
I currently have this problem, Error codes are P0120, P0220, P1516, P2135. Bought a new Throttle Position sensor and have replaced it and the wiring harness. Checked my ground wire close to the firewall and appears clean and tight but have not pulled it and reconnected elsewhere. Did you have the other 3 codes on your fix as I listed. A mechanic told me you have to get the ECM to talk to the new Sensor but all videos on UTUBE never show that need. Mine is a 2006 Chevy Silverado with 5.3 V8. Please let me know if you had these other codes or just the P1516. The Pinouts for the Sensor have TPS Sensor 1, Sensor 2, and Tac Module Control 1 and 2. In mine I can't find the TAC Controllers anywhere. Please advise. P120 is Throttle Position System DTC severity 2 of 3, P0220 is Accelerator Pedal Position, P1516 is Throttle Actuator Control Module Actuator position Performance, P2135 is TPS sensor Correlation.
This happens to me while using cruise control. After it gets canceled by braking I hit resume and boom “reduced engine power” with check engine light and code U0107. It happens very rarely but I finally tied the two together. Is this ground going to be the fix? This is on an 04 8.1 liter RV
It is a few years later my brothers 03 Escalade has the same problem we are in the process of making your modifications. I own a 2002 Denali Sub that doesn’t have this issue yet. I will install this mod onto my truck once we get my brother truck to work properly. I am wondering how is your truck today? Do you still have your truck? Thanks for this I know that putting out a video is extra effort and I think we all appreciate your time!❤
Glad the video could help you. I sold the truck last fall to a guy that works for me. I saw the truck just yesterday. Aside from dents the kid put into it, it’s running great. I think it must be 275,000 miles on it at this point
@@777boatman thanks for replying I appreciate your work! I will let you know how this goes! Just have to add the last ground strap to the ECM in the next day or so!
It worked! Added the most Important ground strap from the negative battery post to the ECM!! Thanks again. I will be adding this modification to my 2002 GMC Denali hopefully it will prevent this issue from causing TPS issues in the future! Two thumbs up!
Do not put a aftermarket TB on it unless you got access to a good scan tool to update it with the ecm I put my old TB back on after cleaning it real good and replaced the TAC module and grounded like the video and she purring again thx 🙏it did not run right until I replaced that module it syncs the pedal sensor and the TPS!! I knew I was golden when the engine check light never came on
I just find your video thank you. I have a 04 Silverado 2500 my truck would die when the headlights are turned on automatically or manually then the truck won’t start or go to reduced engine power and I get a code U0107 and P1626 I tried many parts(fuse box, headlights switch, etc) I’m going to do your suggestions for the ground cable and see how it goes THANK YOU
@@tylerfindlay7994 I’m sorry for the delay I traced the wiring (ground) I found a ground splice in the harness to be melting/hot not making good connection
How about ground the pedal itself does the pedal sensor ground to the pedal and then to the firewall? My pedal assemble is rusty have no idea how but it is. Also use tinned marine wire for the new ground straps, in a car it will never corrode.
I'm getting the p1516 code as well, I can clear the code and drive around with no problem until I put the truck in park or come to a stop. Would a ground issue cause this problem as well. The throttle body butterfly clicks back and forth while at idle and will go into Reduce Engine Power and at times stall. I'm trying to do everything before I replace the TAC or the throttle body unit.
Im currently doing this. 04 Tahoe. My story, had codes for the tps sensor, pedal position sensor, and TAC. Replaced the throttle body and pedal, even though they looked brand new, got a new top of the line battery and cables too. Also replaced every fuse and relay in the truck, Codes went away for a week of solid driving. Came back today with the exact codes, reduced engine power and about 8 others I didn't even bother to read. At this point it's clear it's a grounding issue. I've replaced two connection points so far but ran out of day light. My question where else can I tie into besides the alternator? Can I tie into the alternator mounting bracket? Also how do you tie into the computer? You don't show where, not the TAC but the actual computer
OMG great. I have an 03 Tahoe that when driving, usually cold, I lose power and the reduced engine power light comes on with the engine light. I pull over, turn it off, wait 10sec and restart it, rev the engine up hard a few times(to clean it out) and it stops doing it for awhile(couple weeks). A couple times lately it has done this after I'd been driving it for over an hour. I bought a FIXD sensor and the code P1516 came up. I had intended on replacing the Mass airflow sensor myself but after watching this I'm not sure what to do. 😩
Hi thanks for the video. Im having the exact same issue and I just replaced the throttle body 🤦🏾♂️. I'll give this a try. However if the ground strap behind the block is still connected... can I just leave it there? or I have to cut it off??
I just finished replacing all the intake gaskets... intake manifold, fuel injector gaskets, valve cover gaskets, throttle body intake gasket. Hooked everything up and when I went to start it up, the throttle body was making all kinds of clicking noises. Then the reduced power mode. So I hooked it up to my OBD2 monitor and it threw a P1516 code. I shut it down and put it in ac start mode before cranking and the throttle body began making clicking noises again. I ran around to the front and tried to manually open the butterfly valve, but it was clicking so fast in an open and shut mode that moving the butterfly valve wouldn't budge. I shut it off and cleaned the throttle body with CRC Brake clean... opened the butterfly valve and cleaned top and bottom, but I don't think that had anything to do with it. I went back to put the AC switch with the keys again and while it was making the clicking noises... I cleared the codes. Then I started it up, and cleared the codes immediately again. I then went strait to clear the codes after about 10 to 15 seconds later... but this third time I didn't wait for any engine light to come on.... I just cleared the computer anyway on the OBD2 computer. Then I shut it off. Went back to to the AC switch without cranking it over and cleared the computer again via OBD2 Computer... and just to note.... the 'engine light' that comes on when you're throwing a code had not come on... However, I just cleared it anyway. Then I shut the AC switch off... (and just to be clear... Not the 'Air Conditioning' switch, but the AC switch (When you turn your ignition keys clockwise 2 steps and all the dashboard lights come on). I disconnected the OBD2 computer and started the engine. Purred like a kitten. I've been driving it around for a month now and no codes, no reduced power, no... NOTHING! The throttle body electrical just needed to be reset and for it to re-learn what to do. So.....Before you start going on a wild goose chase to find what is wrong... try resetting the computer with an OBD2 computer.... up to the point when you're clearing the code switch when it isn't even throwing a code. Reset your throttle body with the computer and give that a try before you get so mad that you want to take a hammer to the engine. It may just need to be reset in order to start fresh like it's new.... If it worked for Randy on South Park when the internet was overloaded... It just might work for your car... without the ectoplasm!
Hey how you doing I had the same problem I did everything possible but what I found was when I turn on my AC it’ll start doing it so I never turned it on next thing I know after driving it started doing it so I parked it and I started going through all the CZcamsrs and I came to yours so then I went ahead and try what you said and I did it and it started working perfectly that really helps a lot I wish I could put the picture on so you could see it thanks a lot I stop breaking my head
Hello does this setup also for codes po120,po220,po1516, and po2135? Can you send me the exact point of the green safety ground? From what I can see you ran from the battery to the TAC, TAC to the firewall. Firewall to the alternator. I have the big black negative cable from the firewall to the alternator.
Hey 777 boatman, (6 years later) I have followed the path of the wire you laid out. I am in the same world of new throttle body...cable..etc etc I ran all the wires as you showed. I had a ground strap. So, I still had my to attach in the firewall screw. After getting the all the wires done and attached EXCEPT the final connection to the battery. As I started to attach (with the truck off) was getting small gold sparks. I panicked and didn't add the neg battery terminal. Should their be current? I was thinking I am on negative and shouldn't have sparks. I am thinking we have some type of crossover in one of my touches... Computer...alt tap... throttle body connections ... or the old ground strap? Do you have some thoughts. Or anybody...thx in advance for help...
I know this is a year old but yeah that's normal. a couple small sparks is expected when reconnecting the battery. If you had actually shorted something, the sparks would have been massive you would have burned yourself and the cable would've welded itself to the battery and caught fire.
they literally build GMC to break, in a way that is extremely cheap to fix (just not cheap for their customer) $5 wires, then charge customer $500 for diagnostics and $1100 for labor..
Awesome video man thanks! With you having routed a ground to the alternator bracket, do you no longer have to mess with the ground strap behind the block? Again, thanks for the info!
I have noticed a drop voltage gauge when turning thins on. My "reduced power" happens at night when more power is used. Going to try grounds hope it works.
im having po120 ..po220 ..p1516 and p2135 But no uo107 code ..With my 2004 4.8 lt gmc sierra..... Has this gounding fix still solved your problems Or have they came back? Thanks for all your much needed help
I think it will work for you. its been some time now on mine and the problem has never come back. I did find another ground area, however what I did has circumvented it completely but you may want to consider it. That is two ground points on the frame directly under the driver door hinges. if you look at the driver door hinges and make an imaginary line vertically through them, continue that line down to the frame and on the very bottom of the frame are two ground points. I think these are computer related. very unprotected area. I haven't done anything with these on mine because I added so much additional ground I doubt these two are necessary any longer. Good luck
If you remove the driver side pillar cover there's also the ground point that is computer related. You have to stand outside and look through a windshield to get a good visual.
Hi, I've done this plus more! I'm thinking it's possible it could be the ECM computer board, what's else is there left to replace? 03 gmc 1500. This must be GMs most dreaded code of all times. It should be called the ghost code! 😅
How to fix a gmc electrical issue: completely bypass gmc electrical system and build your own. 👍 I approve. Top notch advice sir, carry on.
Thats where im at
FIXED my 2004 6L Silverado. Could not go 2 miles without the "reduce power" and codes coming on. Did exactly as shown and it has been running great for weeks now. Awsome!!
Same, last week I got hit with a engine light and reduced power and couldn’t go more than 5-10mph and hand to pull over around the corner from where I was. After fixing the issue it runs like a Champ
@@SectorS7VENmy truck has this problem. I’m going to do this right now. Did you completely disconnect the engine ground from the firewall?
Thank you for making this video. I have an 05 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 LS. I have been battling reduced power mode for nearly two years on and off. I have replaced everything correlated to the issue, including changing the throttle body 3 different times through warranty swaps. I followed this video to a T. Did it Yesterday 7/31/23. I am hoping this takes care of my problem. No issues so far. Unfortunately I will need to drive this for quiet a while, but I feel really good about this. GM in these years are known to have weak grounding issues and I think this video really illustrates the importance of having a good ground for your vehicle. 777boatman if your ever in Tucson AZ I will buy you a beer brother, because I think you saved my ass! Fingers crossed. Thanks again!
Update on the vehicle. 8/2/23 truck went into reduce power mode, after making these ground points.
Backstory. I have replaced the TPS sensor twice, rewired and soldered the lines to the pigtail to the TPS sensor. I have swapped the pedal positioning sensor. I have replaced the tach module. I have replaced the throttle body three times ACDelco each time. Codes are P2135 and P0120. I created the same ground points as this video. Unfortunately it did not work.
I am completely out of ideas at this point... If there's anybody who reads this comment and has had the same issues and has a solution, please elaborate. Thank you.
Hopefully you learned about the ground point to the frame below the core support, drivers side for the computer next to battery. Follow the aux. neg. battery cable to it. Also clean the two ground points below drivers seat. Pull back the plastic conduit to make sure both ground wires are solid connection to the eyelet as sometimes 1 wire can break off and not seen. Then check the small black/white stripe ground wire that breaks off behind passenger head. I connected that wire to firewall ground stud on drivers side. A wire brush on the drill works great to clean frame connections. Hopefully this helps someone.
@@richardeisenmann9000Did you ever get it figured out?
Bump, I’ve got the same thing going on. 05 Sierra denali 6.0
I have same issue on tahoe 2004 LT 5.3 , still can't figure it out , also replaced all same what you did yet the codes p2101 showing along with p1516
Thanks I put a 6.0 in my old ford truck and I was getting P1516, this fixed it! Thanks so much for posting and God bless you!
Wow thanks!!! You have simply explained what all those mechanics have not done, or even complicated. Good looking out!
In my case, after cleaning the throttle body and running ground wires, the scan tool still gave me 17 codes relating to the TPS, the accelerator sensors, etc. so I knew the problem was not in the throttle body. After checking the wiring harnesses again, I found out a rodent had chewed on two wires going to the control module next to the brake cylinder. It was hard to see but that was it. Fixing those two wires saved me a ton of money.
I have been trying to figure this problem out for months. For the last month it wouldn't come out of reduced power mode. This seems to have fixed the problem.
You made this girl so happy. I'm able to drive my baby again.
Thanks for the video. I’m gaining a new appreciation for the importance of good grounding. First, the 4wd selector quit, and the problem proved to be the ground terminals under the driver door. Later, the rear wiper quit working, and I fixed it by putting a ground jumper from the wiper motor to the latch mechanism. Now, I think the offending ground for the P1516 code appears to be related to the skinny ground cable from the battery to the front bumper mount on the drivers side. If the problem returns, I guess I’ll have to go crazy adding a bunch of redundant ground wires like you did.
Howd you make out?
I found the solution to this problem. I added more grounds to the frame motor etc and ended up replacing every single sensor related to the gas peddle and a new throttle body. Next i put in a whole brand new wiring harness in the car and a brand new pcm and could not fix the problem. I took it to a guy in Richmond va which had more advanced computers to diagnose the problem and he said that in my case it was like nothing he had ever seen before. He could not find what was causing this problem. So i unbolted everything gad peddle related and literally threw it in the woods and put the cable driven throttle cable on it. Problem is fixed now.
this sums up GMC in one post. aces.
So you converted to throttle by cable?
@@thatsallfolks3115 yep running strong to this day with a cable
@@PolecatCreekGarage can you lead me in the right direction so I can convert to throttle by wire, I’m on my second throttle body and this last time my wife almost got in a wreck with my children in my truck and it’s not worth the risk.
@@thatsallfolks3115 i just went to the junkyard and bought a cable throttle body, and the entire gas pedal and cable itself. You then have to use a different computer and reprogram it to your vehicle, older model computers work pre 2003 and express van computers. Keep in mind this was an issue on my LS swapped 1970 elcamino so everything was modified.
If you have experienced the 'reduced power', 'loss of communication with throttle body' trouble codes and been unable to repair the issue like I was, take a look at this. I discovered that the throttle control module and overall throttle control system is quite complicated by necessity and actually is two redundant throttle systems working at the same time doing the same exact thing within the existing module and computer. The two throttle systems compare themselves to the other continuously and to operate they must see exactly the same values at every point. They do this to ensure that the throttle doesn't go haywire and create an erroneous full throttle situation or otherwise loss of throttle control. Herein is the problem, if the two side by side throttle systems compare themselves, which they do hundreds of times a second, and they see a different control voltage between the two systems they will immediately go into reduced power mode. This is a sporadic problem because it is grounding based. Somewhere a ground connection has been compromised. Sometimes the dealer will change out the throttle module and make a slightly better ground connection due to the nuts being removed and replaced or some such thing being done which jostles around the grounds and the systems work again for a bit but they come back because the actual problem wasn't solved. Creating a dedicated grounding path between the battery and the major components of computer, throttle module, and engine is the only way to correct for older wiring that is getting lose or ferrous oxide (rust) blocking the electricity from flowing in a mechanical connection. I cant confirm this but I seem to see the overall performance of the computer system as more thorough. for instance once the new ground system was installed and no throttle codes were present, one new code and low washer fluid message came up. The code was fuel evap system loss but turned out to be a leaking air gas cap so I replaced the cap and the washer fluid low message hadn't appeared for a very long time. Now there are no codes but what it seemed to indicate was that the computer was not operating at full capacity if a leaking air gas cap hadn't set a code for who knows how long. gas caps don't just go bad instantly I think. It was a long saga to solve this problem but the answer is to ground, ground, ground, and ground some more.
Update: truck was recently sold June 2 2023 reduced power never returned since this grounding system was added.
I experience p1516 but what steps should i take first
I have code 2123,an2127 throttle pedal position sensor E high an I believe its D high I have changed the pedal,the conputer didnt recognize it,cat erases the codes, an still no throttle!!! Please help,been working on this car for months!! about to go crazy!! Car is an 2003 Vw golf 1.8 turbo
What if my TAC is plastic cover and no place to put ground wire to it?
Interesting analysis. I’m only getting p1516 on the scanner but my abs light has been turning on occasionally. Makes me wonder what other trouble lurks in the background.
@Toni Weinberger I have the SAME PROBLEM with my 04 chevy 2500hd pickup , looks like I going to run new ground wires , chevy needs a recall they has a serious repair problem going with their vehicles.
Thanks for your video really works took 10 minutes truck been sitting for 1 year no one could fix it till I seen this video thanks it worked 🤟💪💪💪✌️✌️
Thanks you 💪💪💪💪✌️
MAN!!! You are a life saver (so far) I got the same code U0107 after I had the engine swapped. Spent three days at the dealership, was told my ignition switch was the problem, changed that and no improvement. I saw your video and added a ground from the battery to the TCM and to the firewall ground and another from the battery to the ECM. Its only been 24 hours but so sign of a fault at all.
rajjay11 how is it now
Is it still fixed ?
???
@@MC-hs4mf this dude isn’t responding. I checked all my grounds and sure enough one was junk. Replaced it and now it’s golden
@@207shenanigans I zip tied wire harness off of engine and thought I fixed it. But it returned. My battery is under the back seat I tried using jump cables to create a ground to throttle body and I still can’t erase code and get it out of reduced power mode. Traction control needs service and uo107 pop up simultaneously.
I have a 2005 Suburban 1500 5.3L that was giving me fits with the P1516 code. I had swapped some other parts (maybe needed or not) including the pedal sensor and throttle body, and even my alternator that was starting to go bad. Running new ground wires seems to have fixed my issue. Thank you!!
Worked like a charm. You are a life saver. Thank you!!!!!!!!
That selling the truck line got me right in the gut XD
DUDE THANK YOU!! I’ve had everything replaced twice and they can’t figure it out and it’s been 2 weeks since it happened!!!
Fixed my 03 Tahoe, thanks! No crank no start condition. Reduced power when it would start. $35 in supplies from west marine and 30mins of labor.
what gauge wire did you use?
Thank you SOOOOOO f****** much man! Tried everything and ground from the ecu to the throttle body control unit was the ticket!
Did you just do that one ground im having same problem I replaced everything so ill e need to do is run ground from ecu to throttle control module??
I want to thank you for this video. I was having the same issue with my suburban and what you did I did and so far it has done the job. Thank you thank you thank you
Thanks for this we tried everything to fix our 2004 Chevy Silverado replacing everything for something as simple as a ground wire was all it wire. Not had another problem since. Again thank you.
Can you tell me what’s did you do
Great video. I have been chasing this problem for 5 years and I did everything you did and so far it it's solved my problem 🤞
I was wrong still chasing the problem 😕
@@icutwood2473 This is a clue, however, if it went away longer than the usual (since you probably disturbed the connection or wire that is the actual issue.) Maybe trace back a bit more from what you did and try to refresh something there as well.
mannnn you are the real MVP!!! completely fixed my issue! a huge thank you to you!!!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, I was resetting my code often even while driving. Today I couldnt get rid of the code it kept popping up after resetting it. Followed ur vid did the wiring and jus like that problem solved..What a relief.. Thank you again !!!!!!!!!!!
Nice work! You beat the ground gremlins, congrats!
6/2/03 I have a 2004 silverado 5.3L with that same problem and 3 mechanics couldn't fix it. So I did your ground set up and it's been working fine . Thank you!!!!!
Thank you so much for this info couldn’t find it anywhere else
this worked for me i have a 2003 gmc yukon and i added the grounds to the computer and bam its worked so far so good i had been getting ruduce engine power and i had a p1518 code but yeah thanks again !!! fingers crossed this fixed it .. i also cleaned the 2 bolts under the driver door as they were a bit dirty
I feel that tone o voice brother I I was doin a transmission in my suburban then this issue followed but I see your lovely spider web and here I might have to go get a pro wire snip crimp multi cause I’m grounding my bithch like she missed curfew lol You sir are gent and a scholar! This video is not only holy gold GM info but literally THEE only piece of media info to have remedy in this 5.3 vortec communication issue
I've been chasing this gremlin for over 5 years, replaced a lot of parts, solved for a while then more codes. one day it all started when the truck wouldn't start one morning. bad ground to engine block. fixed that and then one thing after another. I'm going to do your suggestion and thanks for the post
Brother….TY. Fantastic video. Lost ground melted my fuel relay in engine compartment. Figured it out. New / used relay box now gotta du3 the grounds.
Hey man, looks like you did quite a good job, also a good job explaining what you did. Great video!
Thank you for the info. really interesting and informative. I have a 07 2500 chevy that started missing . Not too bad but noticable .Started working on it replaced many of those parts you mentioned. Over time it became much worse..Finally would not run at all. This was after trips even to the dealer. What we found later was a broken ground strap that fixed this problem. Latest problem was a another reduced engine power. It now is at a dealer where they say a tac module not communicating with the throttle body. 725 .00 to fix it. This ground strap looks like the fix . I would add every thing pointed to throttle body issues all the time. Thank you for posting
hi Louis So what was your fix .Adding more grounds..In the spots qwhere Boatman did ?
Thanks for sharing this video. I just did this grounding setup on my 2003 Yukon. Was previously having Reduce Engine Power with code P1516 during snow or when it gets really cold. Cleared the codes and took it for a spin. No P1516, just knock sensor codes because I used cheap knock sensors when replaced the manifold gasket. It’s going to snow tomorrow and below zero temps the following day, so we shall see if this does it.
It’s been over a month with cold and lots of snow and reduced engine power has not returned. Thanks.
I have a 2004 gmc Yukon xl, 5.3l… I had the “reduced engine power” for awhile… I put a new throttle body, new acceleration pedal position sensor on the truck with the same problem… I had 2 very good mechanics look at my truck with the same problems…I didn’t think to look at a video from CZcams cause I didn’t think it would be a video worth watching so I let the truck sit up for almost 8 months (I have another yukon xl)… yesterday I went out to look at the truck, dirty as hell and was about to give up on the truck, but I finally pulled up this video, went out and did everything in this video to my truck and it fired up with no reduced engine power…I drove it around yesterday and to church today… I want to say THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO, it helped TREMENDOUSLY!!!!! BE BLESSED
@@kionsumerall5339 I’m glad I could help you.
GM figured out decades ago that the way to bring in dealer service revenues was crappy grounds. Think about it, every problem with wiring I've had was a ground wire. Not a hot wire or signal but a ground. All have had corrosion inside, not just at the ends.
they literally build it to break, in a way that is extremely cheap to fix (just not cheap for their customer)
This worked for me. We had a service truck that was deemed unfixable after others threw a new throttle actuator, actuator module, and tps didn’t fix it. Code for Lost communication to throttle actuator. The truck also had lights for brake booster and abs on the dash. After running aux grounds to ecm, alt bracket, firewall, and actuator control module on the firewall to battery ground, FIXED the multiple problems! The lights went away and the reduced engine power condition has yet to come back. The odometer even came back(always flashed various issues on lcd screen). Grounds are key to fly by wire engine components they make now. Now I run grounds to everything that needs one.
I did all the ground wiring EXACTLY like in the video, didn‘t work, then added another ground from TB to alternator bracket, also didn‘t work. It wasn‘t until then when I realised that the small black (with white stripes) cable on the passenger side of the engine was the culprit. This wire was already replaced on my truck, but the connection between the ground wire coming out of the harness and the replaced wire was made very poorly, so I cut it off and then ran a new ground wire from the original wire coming out of the harness to the alternator bracket. I could make the engine go into limp mode and throwing all the codes by wiggling this ground coming out of the harness, wish I would have done this earlier, would have saved me some bucks because I replaced the TB first and only the. started to run new grounds.
Note: the terminal where the ground coming from the harness bolts on the engine was actually still feeling strong, but didn‘t want to take the risk of this failing in the future, therefore I ran it to the alternator bracket.
Hope this helps anyone with the same problem.
Which wire are you talking about
@@MarcoS-fb3qr passenger side behind engine there’s a thin black wire that’s grounded behind engine. It’s the ECU/PCM ground
Wish you had a video of this
Can you see this from the top or is it under the truck?
I got caught years ago when the aluminium alternator housing and mounting brackets had enough oxidisation to insulate it from engine, aluminium is great stuff Always remember that it naturally oxidises to protect the metal from just dissolving, ask anyone who welds the stuff just because it worked when it was new or last week or after you cleaned it last means nothing, eventually the oxide layer can become extensive enough to totally electrically insulate it or as stated enough to cause voltage drop, I am always suspicious of any aluminium brackets etc and engines, by the general look of this engine bay its always going to be a problem 😉
This WORKED!! Thank you so much for this
I’m trying it now. Haven’t done anything but clean the throttle body. I’ll comment on the results. It’s a stock 04 gmc 6.0 with 186,000 miles.
What happened?
@@johnbaptiste87 it was the TPS
@@xavical7642 it was the TPS
I am working on a 2003 yukon xl. This will work. Thank you.
I've got an 02 sierra 8.1 106k on it ..nice trk ..im gonna try this gronding method...been thru 3 throttle positioning sensors in a year ... now I'm getting a 1515 code ..reduce power...hope it works !!!
Thx for the video hopefully fixed my issue for good super frustrating
0:37 “except sale the truck” 😅 my favorite part!
this does work....those grounds at the back of the block are important...chased a crank no start for all weekend once and it was that ground that was bad.....even if it looks clean take it off and check and clean it again..
I did everything on your video, plus all new parts! Still same code.
Tnx for taking the time and posting much appreciated.
a11ten071 No Problem that’s What its All about because if you will take it to a shop who knows how much they’ll charge
What all did ur Tahoe do when this happened
Will be trying this on my silverado this weekend. I get random reduced power once in a while i would just disconnect my throttle body and connect it back up and keep on driving. But will be checking grounds this weekend and will be adding more and see if this helps.
I do auto electrical. I believe it's working because your providing the vehicle with proper ground, to the block and body. I don't think the cases to the modules or throttle need any type of ground.
Great video!! Thank you!!!
Talking to my gm tech.
There is a rebuild kit for the harness....
For mine, its the eight wires running from that new throttle body and harness I just replaced. He says you can rewire those from the throttle body to the Tac harness. They are so notorious, he says they offer the pins to rewire that tac harness at the parts shop or dealer.
In a fit of complete rage this morning I cleaned up the grounds on the back of my block, the fire wall...and the two under the drivers side door.
It's running again....seems to run better......I'm afraid to take it very far.
I'm sure I will take the advice and rewire the tac.
While replacing the tbc, I didn't remove the old gasket. It looked like part of the throttle body as it was stuck on well. Grove in the new tbc seemed to match. Installed the tbc. Contacts inside were touching enough to run and give intermittent problems. Replaced the apc at this point then the emc. It wasn't until I removed the throttle body for cleaning that I discovered my mistake. Just a heads up
Have an '03 GMC Yukon 6.0...gonna give this a try.
Thanks!
Anthony O'Brian it’s been over a year and the problem never came back after doing this
I have an 04 Yukon. This code just came on. Did you experience any misfires?
@@henry.g.9093 Well, when it goes into limp mode, it does 'misfire', but no, it wasn't caused by misfire.
Actually, to update the situation:
I installed ground wires to all components and it made absolutely no difference. I still think that could be a fix for some people, but as it turns out it was the actual TPS that was bad. I check, by visual inspection and tugging, the TPS harness, but found no issues. Finally, snipped harness, spliced in new one with the new TPS, VARROOOMMM....off to California we go! The TPS fixed the problem.
To be fair, I had 200K on the Yukon. Also, I believe the pedal position sensor is going bad because now the vehicle surges on cruise control or at constant speeds as if they are still not quite talking to each other perfectly. Thought I would go away, but after 4K hasn't. Should the code occur anymore, I will replace that next.
The extra battery itself isn't needed is it? I mean can't you just run good grounds from the frame and the firewall to all those areas instead? I have a 2011 Silverado 4.8L that I added a turbo to and if you rev it while cold then it will go into limp mode (so the tuner told me). I fortunately do not rev any of my engines when not warmed up, but I had already planned on adding more grounds to the truck because I heard a while back that the stock grounds are crap.
Wondering if anyone can help. I ran the grounds just like in this video. However the wire I ran from my negative battery terminal to the TAC module is an issue. The tac module on my truck is plastic and not metal like yours in the video. Any way to get around this to ensure the TAC module has ground?
I currently have this problem, Error codes are P0120, P0220, P1516, P2135. Bought a new Throttle Position sensor and have replaced it and the wiring harness. Checked my ground wire close to the firewall and appears clean and tight but have not pulled it and reconnected elsewhere. Did you have the other 3 codes on your fix as I listed. A mechanic told me you have to get the ECM to talk to the new Sensor but all videos on UTUBE never show that need. Mine is a 2006 Chevy Silverado with 5.3 V8. Please let me know if you had these other codes or just the P1516. The Pinouts for the Sensor have TPS Sensor 1, Sensor 2, and Tac Module Control 1 and 2. In mine I can't find the TAC Controllers anywhere. Please advise. P120 is Throttle Position System DTC severity 2 of 3, P0220 is Accelerator Pedal Position, P1516 is Throttle Actuator Control Module Actuator position Performance, P2135 is TPS sensor Correlation.
This happens to me while using cruise control. After it gets canceled by braking I hit resume and boom “reduced engine power” with check engine light and code U0107. It happens very rarely but I finally tied the two together. Is this ground going to be the fix? This is on an 04 8.1 liter RV
It is a few years later my brothers 03 Escalade has the same problem we are in the process of making your modifications. I own a 2002 Denali Sub that doesn’t have this issue yet. I will install this mod onto my truck once we get my brother truck to work properly. I am wondering how is your truck today? Do you still have your truck? Thanks for this I know that putting out a video is extra effort and I think we all appreciate your time!❤
Glad the video could help you. I sold the truck last fall to a guy that works for me. I saw the truck just yesterday. Aside from dents the kid put into it, it’s running great. I think it must be 275,000 miles on it at this point
@@777boatman thanks for replying I appreciate your work! I will let you know how this goes! Just have to add the last ground strap to the ECM in the next day or so!
It worked! Added the most Important ground strap from the negative battery post to the ECM!! Thanks again. I will be adding this modification to my 2002 GMC Denali hopefully it will prevent this issue from causing TPS issues in the future!
Two thumbs up!
Do not put a aftermarket TB on it unless you got access to a good scan tool to update it with the ecm
I put my old TB back on after cleaning it real good and replaced the TAC module and grounded like the video and she purring again thx 🙏it did not run right until I replaced that module it syncs the pedal sensor and the TPS!! I knew I was golden when the engine check light never came on
I did everything except hooking the battery and the ecm . It works 💪
Does it still work for you?
I had the same issue. Still have it. 2017 Chevrolet Silverado Lt. I need to replace the throttle actuator control apparently
I just find your video thank you. I have a 04 Silverado 2500 my truck would die when the headlights are turned on automatically or manually then the truck won’t start or go to reduced engine power and I get a code U0107 and P1626 I tried many parts(fuse box, headlights switch, etc) I’m going to do your suggestions for the ground cable and see how it goes THANK YOU
anything?
@@tylerfindlay7994 I’m sorry for the delay I traced the wiring (ground) I found a ground splice in the harness to be melting/hot not making good connection
How about ground the pedal itself does the pedal sensor ground to the pedal and then to the firewall? My pedal assemble is rusty have no idea how but it is. Also use tinned marine wire for the new ground straps, in a car it will never corrode.
Damn! I used some jumper cables to reproduce same objective. I started the truck n checked my scanner n the code was gone.
I'm getting the p1516 code as well, I can clear the code and drive around with no problem until I put the truck in park or come to a stop. Would a ground issue cause this problem as well. The throttle body butterfly clicks back and forth while at idle and will go into Reduce Engine Power and at times stall. I'm trying to do everything before I replace the TAC or the throttle body unit.
Ya cant have too many grounds. Nice job
Im dealing the reduced power issue on ny friends 03 tahoe and no luck so far. So glad my 99 Sierra doesn't have these issues, so far.
Appreciate your time
I sold a 04 Suburban for this very reason. Glad I sold it.
It worked for me!
Did you just cut the old ground that runs to the back of the block and leave it hanging?
Im currently doing this. 04 Tahoe. My story, had codes for the tps sensor, pedal position sensor, and TAC. Replaced the throttle body and pedal, even though they looked brand new, got a new top of the line battery and cables too. Also replaced every fuse and relay in the truck, Codes went away for a week of solid driving. Came back today with the exact codes, reduced engine power and about 8 others I didn't even bother to read. At this point it's clear it's a grounding issue. I've replaced two connection points so far but ran out of day light. My question where else can I tie into besides the alternator? Can I tie into the alternator mounting bracket? Also how do you tie into the computer? You don't show where, not the TAC but the actual computer
Edit nevermind I see where the ground is for computer, watched so many videos I got video blind
OMG great. I have an 03 Tahoe that when driving, usually cold, I lose power and the reduced engine power light comes on with the engine light. I pull over, turn it off, wait 10sec and restart it, rev the engine up hard a few times(to clean it out) and it stops doing it for awhile(couple weeks). A couple times lately it has done this after I'd been driving it for over an hour. I bought a FIXD sensor and the code P1516 came up. I had intended on replacing the Mass airflow sensor myself but after watching this I'm not sure what to do. 😩
Did you find a fix mine is doing exactly what your explained??
Hi thanks for the video. Im having the exact same issue and I just replaced the throttle body 🤦🏾♂️. I'll give this a try. However if the ground strap behind the block is still connected... can I just leave it there? or I have to cut it off??
You can leave it. It won't hurt anything. If its a bad ground electricity always finds the least path or resistance.
EXCELLENT
I just finished replacing all the intake gaskets... intake manifold, fuel injector gaskets, valve cover gaskets, throttle body intake gasket. Hooked everything up and when I went to start it up, the throttle body was making all kinds of clicking noises. Then the reduced power mode. So I hooked it up to my OBD2 monitor and it threw a P1516 code. I shut it down and put it in ac start mode before cranking and the throttle body began making clicking noises again. I ran around to the front and tried to manually open the butterfly valve, but it was clicking so fast in an open and shut mode that moving the butterfly valve wouldn't budge. I shut it off and cleaned the throttle body with CRC Brake clean... opened the butterfly valve and cleaned top and bottom, but I don't think that had anything to do with it. I went back to put the AC switch with the keys again and while it was making the clicking noises... I cleared the codes. Then I started it up, and cleared the codes immediately again. I then went strait to clear the codes after about 10 to 15 seconds later... but this third time I didn't wait for any engine light to come on.... I just cleared the computer anyway on the OBD2 computer. Then I shut it off. Went back to to the AC switch without cranking it over and cleared the computer again via OBD2 Computer... and just to note.... the 'engine light' that comes on when you're throwing a code had not come on... However, I just cleared it anyway. Then I shut the AC switch off... (and just to be clear... Not the 'Air Conditioning' switch, but the AC switch (When you turn your ignition keys clockwise 2 steps and all the dashboard lights come on). I disconnected the OBD2 computer and started the engine. Purred like a kitten. I've been driving it around for a month now and no codes, no reduced power, no... NOTHING! The throttle body electrical just needed to be reset and for it to re-learn what to do. So.....Before you start going on a wild goose chase to find what is wrong... try resetting the computer with an OBD2 computer.... up to the point when you're clearing the code switch when it isn't even throwing a code. Reset your throttle body with the computer and give that a try before you get so mad that you want to take a hammer to the engine. It may just need to be reset in order to start fresh like it's new.... If it worked for Randy on South Park when the internet was overloaded... It just might work for your car... without the ectoplasm!
Hey how you doing I had the same problem I did everything possible but what I found was when I turn on my AC it’ll start doing it so I never turned it on next thing I know after driving it started doing it so I parked it and I started going through all the CZcamsrs and I came to yours so then I went ahead and try what you said and I did it and it started working perfectly that really helps a lot I wish I could put the picture on so you could see it thanks a lot I stop breaking my head
How did u do it
Great video
Can you show us how.uou got the the green ground wire behind engine or how you hooked it up
So you only made grounds? Did you ground the ground of the computer or lead the new ground to it?
I taken the ground strap off the back of the motor multiple times.. you just need smaller arms hahaha
Hello does this setup also for codes po120,po220,po1516, and po2135? Can you send me the exact point of the green safety ground? From what I can see you ran from the battery to the TAC, TAC to the firewall. Firewall to the alternator. I have the big black negative cable from the firewall to the alternator.
Hey 777 boatman, (6 years later) I have followed the path of the wire you laid out. I am in the same world of new throttle body...cable..etc etc
I ran all the wires as you showed. I had a ground strap. So, I still had my to attach in the firewall screw.
After getting the all the wires done and attached EXCEPT the final connection to the battery. As I started to attach (with the truck off) was getting small gold sparks. I panicked and didn't add the neg battery terminal. Should their be current? I was thinking I am on negative and shouldn't have sparks. I am thinking we have some type of crossover in one of my touches... Computer...alt tap... throttle body connections ... or the old ground strap? Do you have some thoughts. Or anybody...thx in advance for help...
I know this is a year old but yeah that's normal. a couple small sparks is expected when reconnecting the battery. If you had actually shorted something, the sparks would have been massive you would have burned yourself and the cable would've welded itself to the battery and caught fire.
they literally build GMC to break, in a way that is extremely cheap to fix (just not cheap for their customer) $5 wires, then charge customer $500 for diagnostics and $1100 for labor..
Awesome video man thanks!
With you having routed a ground to the alternator bracket, do you no longer have to mess with the ground strap behind the block?
Again, thanks for the info!
That’s exactly what it’s doing
@@russellrobins5320 that’s what I figured. Thank you
I have noticed a drop voltage gauge when turning thins on. My "reduced power" happens at night when more power is used. Going to try grounds hope it works.
Instead of drilling that spot at the alternator can I put it on the bolt beside where you drilled?
So I have a question how many wires did you use all together and what size wire was it all
im having po120 ..po220 ..p1516 and p2135 But no uo107 code ..With my 2004 4.8 lt gmc sierra..... Has this gounding fix still solved your problems Or have they came back? Thanks for all your much needed help
100 works i fix mine
You are an elite hacker.
777boatman I am getting a p1518 code do you think I need to use your method? GMC Yukon SLT
thank you ,i am going to do it i have a bad reduced problem, i let you know if it works,
I think it will work for you. its been some time now on mine and the problem has never come back. I did find another ground area, however what I did has circumvented it completely but you may want to consider it. That is two ground points on the frame directly under the driver door hinges. if you look at the driver door hinges and make an imaginary line vertically through them, continue that line down to the frame and on the very bottom of the frame are two ground points. I think these are computer related. very unprotected area. I haven't done anything with these on mine because I added so much additional ground I doubt these two are necessary any longer. Good luck
Did it work for yoy
If you remove the driver side pillar cover there's also the ground point that is computer related. You have to stand outside and look through a windshield to get a good visual.
Hi, I've done this plus more! I'm thinking it's possible it could be the ECM computer board, what's else is there left to replace? 03 gmc 1500. This must be GMs most dreaded code of all times. It should be called the ghost code! 😅
Have the same problem. Was already sure it was ground. Worse with rain or in winter shortly after engine starts to warm up.
Take a look at the additional grounds I have found on these trucks. The location is described in the reply to Jorge Reyes. Might help you.
Did it work for you
Good shit.
Any help with mine, goes into reduced engine power ONLY when I turn on my a/c compressor
Right I almost sold mine after it went to the dealer and they couldn't even fix it! They replaced all these things also!!!
throttle body pedal sensor does it have to E =resend when you change how?
Hey did this continue to work? I had this issue. New throttle body new harness new module. I even got a new accelerator pedal sensor.
Did you end up fixing the problem
@@erikorozco8611 yes but not from the ground. My throttle body harness pigtail had one bad wire. Replace it an been good since