John Deere GX345 Mower Won't Stay Running, Won't Start, Carburetor Cleaning, Diagnosis and Repair
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- čas přidán 21. 06. 2022
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This John Deere GX345 Fuel pump was deteriorating causing it to only run on choke, die or not start at all. This is a common issue for these tractors as they age.
We replace the fuel line, clean the carburetor and provide a permanent fix to the non starting issue on this 25 year old machine.
This is one of the only reasons we see these machines come in for a no start or won't stay running issue.
Like and subscribe to see more helpful videos like this one! Save some money by doing it yourself!
#johndeere #smallenginerepair #individualizedrepair #smallbusiness #diymaintenance
About Us:
My name is Martin. I have been repairing tools and small engines for almost 20 years. We operate a small engine repair shop in Illinois. We service / repair Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki, John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro Tecumseh, Loncin, Honda, Craftsman, Husqvarna, MTD, Troy Bilt, Simplicity, John Deere, Exmark, LCT, Generac and many more brands. We work on riding mowers, walk behind mowers, snow blowers, zero turns, generators, pressure washers and much more. We normally repair about 3,000 pieces of equipment every year and look at many more that are beyond an affordable repair. Hopefully our videos will save you some money and give you the information you need to work on your own equipment or figure out the issue at hand.
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Please be careful when repairing any piece of equipment and follow all possible safety measures. This video is for entertainment purposes only. - Jak na to + styl
This is one of the best instructional videos I have ever seen. I've been fighting with this carb problem for years. The secondary filter is so necessary. I want to shake this guy's hand and buy him a beer. Thank you for the help.
Hey, I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
this needs to be seen by everyone who owns JD345 and GX345
Thanks for watching!
Wow, this is a year old and it's like the gift that keeps giving! You did an excellent video that helped with my GX 345 and my parents X530. It only takes a little flake of rubber to shut these things down when it blocks a jet in the carb. Thank-you!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching
Great video. I just picked one of these up with a very similar problem. I’ve shared this video for you on my channel under “Great Videos From other Channels”.
I can’t believe this video doesn’t have more views than this. You really know what you’re doing. 💪😁👍
Thanks for that and for watching! I appreciate it!!
Thanks for the great tutorial. Fixed my gx345 carb leak from overflow. Very helpfull👍🏼👍🏼
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Great video.....same issue with my 2002 GX345. Followed your video step-by-step and it worked flawlessly. Mower is up and running again! Thank you!!!
Great job! Thanks for watching!
My 345 just started doing this. Thank you for the video. Time to get to work!
Yes sir!!
Great video, I just did mine, it's a 345 but mostly the same. Runs great now and it was pretty gunked up when I tore into it. I found the hardest part was putting the muffler cover on. It's metal and wonky shaped on the 345. Thanks again.
Definitely! Thanks for watching!
Awesome technical video and very well narrated!
Thank you for that and for watching!
Nice tutorial for a common problem, very well done.
Thank you!
Amazing! Trying to figure all this out the first time would be a nightmare. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Dude I hope the people in your area know how lucky they are to have such a good mechanic near them.
I appreciate your kind words! We have a lot of loyal customers we work with. Some of these have been customers for over 10 years and we are lucky to have them
Really nice stem to stern clip of the fuel circuit.!
I was having a fuel problem this summer so I ran new fuel line, filter and a vacuum pump but after I buttoned everything up the main drive belt lost a chunk of rubber and one of the idlers on the spring loaded bracket was screeching so I fixed that stuff, but then the battery wouldn’t hold a charge
I figured that since I was already under there and throwing money at the dealer, I did a hyd.oil change including both hyd. filters
All that’s needed now is new valve stem seals to stop the puff of smoke
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Wow 💥 Absolutely amazing 🛠 thank you!!! Very much 🙏
Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
Thank you for that! Appreciate it!
Great video
Thanks for watching!
Whenever making a lawn tractor purchase, try getting a lower price mower without the extras,it’s easier to maintain!! John Deer is a good brand but there’s more than a normal home owner can grasp.
Definitely easier to maintain some that are made simple. Be careful to get something that still has quality. You do not want whatever you buy made with inferior quality parts. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, it gave me the confidence to rebuild (which I haven't done in 45 years) my 2002 GX345 carb. My Kawasaki FD611v engine is blowing fuel out of the vent/overflow tube after it runs for a minute, then it will start and repeat itself. I cleaned everything out, as you suggested, replaced the float needle (old one had a crease in the rubber tip), and it still does it. Fuel lines are new. I ordered a new solenoid and will try that, as the engine runs for a few more seconds after I turn the key off and I had read that it could be a sign of a malfunctioning solenoid. Thanks again, and feel free to comment on fuel leak 😁
Needle/seat has to be the culprit in this case unless crankcase is full of fuel also?
@@IndRepair Nothing but oil in the crankcase. I'll let you know if the new solenoid worked. Thanks for the reply.
Solenoid didn't help the gas pouring out of vent/overflow tube issue. As I said earlier, I installed a new float needle, but still had the issue. Can I do anything about the needle seat, or do I need a new carb? Thanks!
Were you able to get this taken care of?
Interested also if you were able to get rid of the fuel coming out of the overflow tube
Also the rubber seal on fuel cap are falling into fuel tanks and stopping up hoses
Might check yours and replace or remove rubber seal
I remove seal and drill tiny hole in cap, it has a hood to keep water out
Definitely an issue!
Great video. What is the part numbers for the carb gaskets?
The bowl gasket is 11009-2024, the carburetor gasket to the block is 11009-2343
I thought I seen a return line at the tank end but I did not see a return line at the carb end? Some of these 345 had a T in the line from pump to carb and T off back to a return line to a restrictor in the tank I think to reduce vapor lock. Has anyone had any experience with that style does it work ok? I was going to add that return line and restrictor to my older 18hp 345 to help vapor lock. I also noticed they added a defector to guide cooling fan air to the carburetor area.
No return line on this one. Some do have it set up like this as you say
Carburetor Removal: the top 2 10 mm bolts on the top of the manifold just keep spinning, I can't get them out, any suggestions? thanks, great video.
You will have to remove the bolt/nut assembly and do some repairs during reassembly tp make sure it doesn't leak at the intake there were there plastics are not good. Not an easy task but I am confident you will get it taken care of! Thanks for watching!
Hey bud thx for the video. I'm cleaning the same carb myself and I'm a novice. Wasn't my mower and noticed when I took the carb off the ground wire is missing. I haven't found a screw that'll work in that whole. Is that something that can be a huge problem. Thx for any response. I appreciate it!
Definitely need the ground wire!
I only questions I have are:
For that second fuel filter you installed after the fuel pump. What if your fuel line coming out of that pump has a T in it to route fuel to the carburetor and to the return fuel line that goes back to the tank? Mine has that.
Should I place the extra fuel filter before the T or after it but before it enters that carburetor?
I also wonder if that T splice affects the flow of the fuel into the carb and if adding an extra fuel filter there will affect it even more. Any thoughts on that?
I didn't realize some of these had a t for a return line. Flow difference will be minimal, I would place it after the t. The fuel going back into the tank would have to be filtered first and again before coming back through anyway
@@IndRepair ok thanks.
Yeah we've had it service from John Deere for years but I am tight on money right now so I'm doing some repairs myself and finding some things a little different than it's stock diagrams. I think they update or at least changed a few things over the years. Well I am going to try this out and hope that this will help get it running.
By the way. Great video.
Thanks for watching! Glad to help!
Excellent video. I have the 345 model ... same FD590V 18 hp Kawasaki liquid cooled engine. Engine starts and runs fine. After about 5 min, starts surging and will eventually quit. Push it up to Choke mode, and it seems to run semi-fine but at a little lower power. Seems like the exact issue you describe. Have replaced fuel pump, filters, and lines. Only problem I have is, the sleeve for 1 of the 10mm bolts for the manifold spin (or stripped) so I can't get the manifold out and therefore the carburetor. Argh. Any "tips or tricks" on getting that 10mm bolt out??? Again, thanks for the great video!!
Is that one of the bolts attaching the carburetor to the top plastics you speak of being stripped?
@@IndRepair Good morning, thank you!! It's the one of the 2 10mm vertical bolts that go down through the large air intake up top to hold the plastic manifold (with that rubber O ring, 90 degree bend, then into the carb). I don't think it's stripped, but as you said in your video, they must have a metal sleeve inside it and are notorious for spinning. If I can get that out, then I will follow your directions to clean the carb - it's exactly what's going on I think. Your video describes the situation perfectly. Any trick would be appreciated. Cut out the whole manifold/replace, heat applied to plastic where sleeve is, etc. Thank you so much.
@@timplzak4276 Not an easy one to do. Last one I did I was able to remove the elbow while prying between the elbow and top air intake plastic (couple bolts removed of course). The nut (from inside the plastic) came completely up and out of elbow plastic at this point and I was able to remove bolt and just replaced the elbow. I try to avoid heat because the plastic can warp and cause leaking around that intake o-ring
How do you remove the plastic elbow when the two top bolts are seized and the nuts are spinning in the plastic housing? It prevents me from removing the carb to clean it.
I show it in one of my videos I will see if I can find it
Please explain the spring on the governor linkage, to me it don't make sense..I put new carburetor on my gt235, it wouldn't run right so I saw I didn't put spring back on, put spring on it runs great. I hear the affects of spring......it just don't make sense to me
The spring on the governor keeps the linkages from moving loosely where they are installed. Without it many times you get surging as there is too much slop between the linkages and where they are attached so the engine will hunt
Having problems with my 2002 GX325 throttle control linkage or the whole machanism does not function properly pull the throttle control knob down and the throttle on the carburator does not follow. i have adjusted the throttle control cable within the specs of the service manual. PLEASE HELP! i have no control over the engine speed except for the choke
Was the carburetor removed before this started happening? Does the throttle plate on the carburetor itself move freely?
@@IndRepair nope carb was not removed. The throttle on carb did move freely but i did give it a little bit of turbine oil just today i started it and it is fine all i did was adjust the throttle cable. oh and i did oil all the connecting point i could get too easily. so i think it was because we had a 40 degree temp change in a manner of of few hours 5 days ago.
Nice!
Used electric tape around all the gaps in the plastic bodies atop the carb. Nothing is sealed above the carb...crazy design. Carb never stay clean
Yeah, those plastics warp so bad very quickly and they pull in debris because of it. Something stopping it is better than nothing. Thanks for watching!
I just got one of these for FREE from a guy I know. He said he put the battery terminals on backwards then he corrected it but now every time he tries to start it blows the blue 30 amp fuse. I haven’t gotten to look at it yet.
Any suggestions?
Check fuses and wiring first, something hopefully stopped voltage before getting to the electronics
I did a continuity test and it turns out the voltage regulator shorted out.
Got a new one coming tomorrow.
Awesome! Great job!
What size are the fuel lines?
1/4" Id
Hey I replaced my carb using this video. Thank you. When I started it back up, my mower at full throttle, now runs way too high. What could I possibly have done? I’m not very mechanically inclined
Also, the new carb I bought, does not have a place to screw in the ground, is that a big deal? Thanks
Also, I have noticed the spring on the governor linkage is pretty rough. Could this be causing my issues?
Either a leak at one of the gaskets or something is keeping the throttle plate from moving correctly is likely
@@IndRepairthank you!
Glad to help
Is the carb ground wire required
It sure is
What are the issues that occur when the ground wire is not connected? I’m having trouble with engines performing well.
@@jorgecasias8163 It could cause intermittent shutdown or no start issues because of the solenoid shutting off fuel to the carburetor
Thank you very much. I’ve subscribed and liked your your channel.
@@jorgecasias8163 Appreciate that!
what do you charge to do that
Depending on what all we are doing and what parts are needed $200-$300
@@IndRepair where you are located
Bloomington, Illinois
Just take out the carb studs way faster and turn carb sideways and unhook linkage and carb is off
Good tip it just never worked well for me that way. Thanks for watching!
Good tip it just never worked well for me that way. Thanks for watching!
Mine runs 3 seconds and dies do you know what could be the problem
probably a fuel or carburetor related issue but hard to tell without some diagnostics. That would be my first step, to use some starting fluid or carburetor cleaner to see if it will stay running. Keep a fire extinguisher close by just in case it backfires...
Expect carb rebuild or replacement every few years with the crap gas plus all new fuel hoses every year
Don’t buy new junk folks
Yeah doesn't take long!
Is it better to run higher octane fuel (90+ octane) or does that not matter because of the alcohol content in 87, 89, and 91 octanes? Would any additives help prolong the rubber components?
@@Brittbelle96non-ethanol is what your looking for.