John Deere 425 Riding Mower Bogs Down, Dies Out, Won't Stay Running, No Power Under A Load Kawasaki
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
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We check out a John Deere 425 riding mower that came in running poorly with low power and bogs down or dies out when blades are engaged or going through thick grass.
We find that the unit is only running on one cylinder.
It ends up being a bad ignition coil causing the issue on this tractor.
We show the full diagnostic process to find out what is wrong and show how to repair the issue.
Many other times with the Kawasaki running on one cylinder we see a bad pickup or the ignition control module has gone bad.
This unit has the Kawasaki FD620D 20HP liquid cooled engine
Ignition coil part number 21121-2083 can be purchased at amzn.to/3sXiSYc
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#johndeere #kawasaki #smallenginerepair #individualizedrepair #smallbusiness #diymaintenance
About Us:
My name is Martin. I have been repairing tools and small engines for almost 20 years. We operate a small engine repair shop in Illinois. We service / repair Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki, John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro Tecumseh, Loncin, Honda, Craftsman, Husqvarna, MTD, Troy Bilt, Simplicity, John Deere, Exmark, LCT, Generac and many more brands. We work on riding mowers, walk behind mowers, snow blowers, zero turns, generators, pressure washers and much more. We normally repair about 3,000 pieces of equipment every year and look at many more that are beyond an affordable repair. Hopefully our videos will save you some money and give you the information you need to work on your own equipment or figure out the issue at hand.
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Please be careful when repairing any piece of equipment and follow all possible safety measures. This video is for entertainment purposes only.
The CDI box board has an issue of solder joints cracking since its mounted under the starter by the engine. I opened mine up and resoldered the joints, Runs perfect now.
I have seen them go bad many times and replace but never re soldered. Interesting! Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair Its usually where the wires are soldered to the board. The other components on the board were fine.
Thanks for the information!
Great job on the video!
Thanks for watching and you comment I appreciate it
Another great video Martin. I have that same mower. Do you think the RPM’s are a little high? If that is correct mine is really low. I also have a GX345. JD worked on it. They replaced the carb, igniter and a bunch of other stuff. Charged me around $1500. I used it for 17 hours and it started dieing again. Over the winter I took the tank off, drained and flushed out, replaced the fuel line from the carb to the tank. Seems to be working ok now. Currently for sale on Facebook Marketplace. If I have anymore issues, I’m bringing it to you, as I live in Monticello.
They should be set between 3,200 to 3,400 rpm. If you need to bring it by we will be here
Why would your crankcase fill with gas instead of oil?
If the carburetor fails the fuel will drain into the crankcase and mix with the oil
Nice videos you put out! Thank you. Where did you get that spark tester? Can't find it..
Thank you! Go to trillww.com and fill out a contact form. They said they had a handful still in stock last time I checked. Nobody else selling them that I can find. I ordered a couple more last month just to have backups! Appreciate you watching!
Love that spark tester. Where did you get that from?
Just saw your reply to another comment below. 😁👍
Haha been using them for years under a few different brand names. Definitely nothing else out there like it! It saves so much time!
Thanks for watching!
Sounds like it's over reving also. Probly the governor springs aren't hookup correct.
Just sounds like that from the video, it was running at a good speed. Thanks for watching!
What are the pick ups? Mine is running on 1 cylinder and the coils, plugs, wire caps all check out. My next step was going to be the control module but I'm getting frustrated
They sit on the rear of the engine against the flywheel and tell the board when to send spark to your coils
Is there a way to tell if it's the pickups or the module. I wish I was near you. I'd just drop it off. We have almost no small engine guys near us.
You can test the board pins by ohms resistance there is a chart you can find online
Swapped the ignition delay module with my in laws 425 and didn't change a thing. Looking for the ohms chart.
Thanks for all your help earlier this summer. Turned out that my problem was some hairline cracks in the soldered connections. In the ignitor box that bolts to the frame on the left side of the engine. John Deere in my town wanted more than $600 Canadian for it so I had the solder re-done by a family member and it works great again.
my 425 is bogging out then idles back up at idle and in use. I just changed oil, air filter, spark plugs. unhooked plug on both sides 1 at a time and it still starts so im guessing its still on both cylinders so what else might cause the bog. valve covers are leaking and new ones ordered. thanks
Could be blown head gaskets, gummed up carburetor or bad fuel. Does the bogging down get better when you apply a little choke? If so it points you towards a fuel/air related issue. Thanks for watching!
👋👍
Thanks for watching!
IF YOUR MECHANICALLY CHALLENGED LIKE ME AND GOT LOST AT LETS POP THIS HOOD,,oops sorry caps...does anyone know if John deere will send a mechanic to do house calls or can they pick up and take it to the shop? I inherited my JD from my deceased father and know absolutely nothing..not even to change blades. My engine chugs and takes a while to get strength after engaging the blades?
Probably could get someone to come pick it up. Could be quite a few thinks. Thanks for watching!
Check your deck bearings