DOUBLE TROUBLE! - 85 C10 5.3 LS SWAP - Plumbing Fuel System With Original DUAL TANKS - UTX
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- čas přidán 10. 11. 2021
- Welcome to Ugly Truck! Today, we're plumbing the fuel system for the 5.3L in the 1985 C10... the hard way. Most people would say to just use one fuel tank, but we're a little obsessive. Since this truck had factory dual fuel tanks, we're determined to keep them both, even if it means twice the clamps and twice the flares! Our fuel pumps are done, so we're running supply, return, and vent lines, as well as mounting the fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and return switch valve. Every car and truck is different, but hopefully this gives you some ideas for your own project. And remember, PUT YOUR CLAMPS ON FIRST!
PARTS LIST:
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Fuelab 53501-1 or Holley 12-846
Return switch valve: Standard Motor Products FV1.
Fuel Filter: Wix 33579
Fuel Filter Line/Fitting: Dorman 800-153
3/8 Steel Fuel Line
3/8 Gates Fuel Injection Hose
1/2 PEX clamps
Click here to get caught up on this LS swap! • 1985 Chevy C10 - LS SW...
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👋👋👋 Check out the rest of the 85 C10 swap here! Engine/transmission install, exhaust, wiring, and more! 😁 czcams.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC4Qda-Lj78McLIQjdtHqjyY.html
Incredibly informative and helpful videos, thank you!
Thank you! We appreciate you watching!
Amazing work
Thanks for watching!
Really nice job with the steel lines! Looks like Quality work!
Thank you! We appreciate you tuning in!
This channel is underrated! Love the content. Subscribed
Thanks so much for your comment! We're just getting started! 😎
Great info just waiting on how to connect the switch inside the cab to finish on my truck 1986 silverado your info has been a lot of help 👍
Thanks for watching! We'll have a video on all the wiring very soon!
My exact plan, I'm looking to run an 8.1 swap. And I currently get 2.67 mpg towing I expect that to get marginally better or at least be able to get there in less time
Faster is always better! 😁 Thanks for watching!
I like the edelbrock universal sump for my carb efi swaps. It would be perfect in a dual tank square
I have more of them coming up and will give them a look. Thanks Jerry
I ran everything through my tank selector valve on my 85. I went from the tbss intake to the corvette regulator. The corvette regulator to valve to tanks. Got a ls dual tank conversion harness from Jabin Wood and used 2 in tank Walbro 255lph pumps.
That sounds like a pretty good set up. We had someone else turn us on to the Corvette regulators, and next time we'll definitely be using one of those.
What all do I need for that? Could you possibly send me a list so I can do mine.
Jonny could you possibly send me a lists of parts I need so I can do mine
to avoid using the switch valve, I used two corvette filter/regulators. One for each tank. Each filter/regulator has a return to their respective tank. Followed by a check valve and then the "T" fitting. It's all mechanical this way. No electrical switch valve, and no external fuel pressure regulator.
Also, you eliminate the long return line
This is exactly why we love the comments and the other channels that we watch. I had no idea that these existed. Had I known I would have totally done the same routing. I am thinking about redoing it. Will save my pressure regulator for another project. I don' t have a lot of time to sit down and look for these options so when someone points something like this out to me I really appreciate it. I'm always learning, that's why we love working on cars.
Thank you
What fuel pumps are you using in the tanks? And if you use the corvette filter/regulators instead of a switch valve, how does it know to switch tanks?
Do you have a drawing or picture I can see? 😅
the I believe 83-87 selector valves are rated for something like 65psi and you could put high pressure pumps on 87 sending units. I like your setup but for next time you do it using factory parts may be easier,cheaper, and more factory appearing. and less tube flares🤣. love the videos and keep up the good work!
I worked on these trucks back in the 80"s and couldn't count how many I replaced. They were not the most reliable. Most people with dual tanks just favored whichever tank they liked to fill and did not risk switching the tanks over. I also don't like that its max pressure is 65 lbs. These pumps can put out around 90 so everything I use on the system I would rather it be able to hold at least 100 lbs or more in the event something goes haywire with the pressure. I am building these for customers so I go a little nuts on the safety aspect. We had a subscriber turn us onto corvette filter regulator assemblies and I have since redone this system a bit. We need to get an updated video out. Thanks for your comment. We appreciate you watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Please do- would love to see it.
Great tip on your fuel line flare. Genius! Can you tell me of that is a regular PEX tool with stainless clamps. Thanks
Yep! The clamps that fit those 3/8 fuel lines are 1/2 PEX.
As long as your not going over 60 psi the 87 style tank selector valve will work, used one on a crew cab swap
Yes, you're absolutely right. Check out this video, where I talk more about my issues with them. czcams.com/video/sjo6aOLdu-w/video.html
Plumbing dual tanks would make me a drinker. And I'm a plumber. And then there's the wiring!! Pour me another drink!
🍻 I'm having a cold drink right now. Finished putting a transmission in a Ford Fusion just a bit ago. That would drive anybody to drink.
The genuine Pollak brand selector valve is rated for 65 psi. I’m not sure at what flow rating the valve will become a restriction but it will work well for most people.
Thanks for the info! I'll definitely look it up!
Did you have a part are model number
@@PIMPCDOTCOM I used the Standard FV5. Same thing.
I found your channel with lots of good information. Have an 84 k10 4x4 dual tank. could not fill one side just clicked at pump changed the valve for fuel tanks, can fill now but both the fuel gauges stuck on full put a new switch sector one you recommend. Have a hint or advise with my problem? I watch your fix not that good. Thanks Russ
Hello Russel. This isn't really a fix for a fuel system that has been done with the original type switch and valve. This is just a system that we use to do a dual tank set up and try to make it reliable when we do a LS swap that requires a high pressure pump in both tanks. Let us know exactly what you are working with and I will try to help if I can. Jerry
How warm do you keep your garage? In November here the snow is usually here or on the way but Jerry is wearing shorts. Maybe he's just tougher than me! This year we did have a nice fall. Great video! Is the return solenoid connected to fuel pump selector ?
I try to keep it at warm as possible. I grew up in Nebraska and was tired of the cold. The average cold day here might be 30 degrees with the occasional dip down into the teens but very short lived. It has been in the 60s lately. If its above 55 I go with shorts and keep the shop well above 70. That solenoid is controlled by a relay that also controls what fuel sending unit is being read from. I would like to do a video on it.
buddy you really answered a lot of questions for me i appreciate it great video and i like the clips of your daughter playing with the dog question , have you ever had any leaks with those clamps you use , thanks
Thanks Hanibal. Emily and I are actually married. I do have a daughter, but she doesn't have any interest in this stuff. Those pinch clamps have always worked great for us. If you give them a try let us know what you think. We appreciate you watching. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Jerry i apologize i thought she was you daughter , yah im gonna try those clamps out im not running very much pressure what ever a stock tbi would be , so what im doing is im running a sbc vortec engine in my truck that ive converted to carb , the truck is an 82 and i bought an 87 tank and an 87 r10 fuel sending unit , all that since the block doesnt have the fuel pump boss drilled out so im using those things and running it into a fuel pressure regulator with a return line , ive been looking for a easier way to do it to try and stay away from all those an6 fittings , as much as possible , but again i apologize and thanks for the video ,,, Joe
Sounds like a great swap. That Vortec motor is great. I always liked them. Sounds like you could could just hard line what you need and crimp clamp the hose. Those clamps would eliminate any worry for leaks. When we see people out there using the worm gear clamps I always think it is just a matter of time before they leak. We appreciate you watching. Thanks. Jerry
My build is on a 1987 R10 with dual tanks. Could I use the factory hard lines coming from each tank and just add the components you used. Like the Y fitting, the check valves and so forth?
Hey Rual. You can use as much of the steel line as you would want, but you would want to make sure the fuel line that is not steel is rated to hold that pressure and can take the ethanol in todays fuel. Jerry
I am also doing an L59 Flex Fuel motor. Are you retaining the Intake manifold with the Flex injectors? Are you tuning out the Flex tables? I seen no flex fuel sensor installed. Thanks
We don't use the Flex Fuel sensor. When we send the PCM out, we let the programmer know what injectors we're using on this one and he takes care of that.
Great video and info!! Sir what is the stuff in the orange bottle that you put on the fitting @17:24? Thank You!!
Thanks Billy! That's just dielectric grease. It's for keeping electrical connections dry, but it works good as a lubricant and doesn't hurt the rubber fuel lines. Those push lock fittings are tight and it just makes it a little easier. Thanks for tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
You should design t-shirts that have “ok-sooo”
Thanks Joseph. She has a few shirt designs that she is working on and that is one actually one of them. Jerry
Did you happen to figure out how to tie into the dual fuel tanks and have the gauge work??
Im struggling 35:44 with that currently. Whatever info you have would be great and I appreciate the videos buddy.. Jimmy
Have you seen this video? I believe I go over wiring up this dual tank system and also the sending unit. czcams.com/video/sjo6aOLdu-w/video.html
Hi, regarding the purge valve, is this elaborated in any videos? If I connect fuel tank vent to purge valve solenoid on intake does any programming need to happen or charcoal canister needed?
When it comes to the purge valve I have the programmer have the computer quite looking to set a code for the purge valve. The purge valve still works like normal but will not turn the code on for purge valve. I do connect them to the fuel system and it is nice to have them going to a carbon canister if you have room for one somewhere. We have not addressed this in a video but have it in the plans to do that. Hope that helps Thanks Nick. Appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience I see what you're saying. Ideally the vent solenoid would also open on the carbon canister so that the tank doesn't come under vacuum from fuel draw and engine vacuum? Perhaps it's negligible.
Just for clarification…you can just braided line for the whole application?
Yes, you could do that if you wanted to. Thanks for watching!
Great video I was trying to figure out how to run my set up. This was a big help. What’s the part number for the switch valve?
Glad to hear the video was helpful! The switch valve is a Standard Motor Products part number FV1. Here's a link to the playlist for this swap... There may be some other helpful videos. Thanks for watching! czcams.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC4Qda-Lj78McLIQjdtHqjyY.html
I was looking for a way to run efi on my 87 r10. Being my was once tbi do you have any suggestions?
I would throw on a Edelbrock dual plane square bore manifold and a Holley EFI system.
great video and quality work, I would like to do the same on my 1976 gmc, would there be anything different to do? I am not a mechanic but would love to give it a shoot. Thanks in advance.
Thanks Richard! This set up works great on a 76 also. We hope you give it a shot, and let us know how it goes! Thanks for tuning in!
Thanks so much for the reply. My 76 is not fuel injection, so I will not need a fuel pressure regulator, correct? I think I have another problem anyway, I have no voltage at the cross over solenoid valve ' I have power at the in cabin switch so I have to solve this first. Wish you lived close I would pay you to do it. By the way, I hope your snap on dealer loves you as much as I would off.
Can you please explain to me how your NOT drawing from both tanks at the same time with this configuration?
I’ve been wondering the same thing through the whole video.
What check valves are you using?
We used Evil Energy check valves on this one. I did a short bed recently that I did not use any check valves on it just relying on the valve that is built into the pump and It seems to be working great. Long boxes though, I think I would still put them in just for piece of mind. Thanks Edgar. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
hello, how are you, where can I buy a flaring tool like yours because I bought one on amazon but it doesn't work for me because the tube becomes smooth when I try to do the fraring
Hello Ivan. If you have a Orielly's auto parts store where you are located, I would rent one from them on thier loner tool program. If it is piece of junk you can just return it and get your money back. If you like the tool and want to keep it you just don't return it. The holding device that you pinch the line in has to be cranked down solid on any of them though in order so the line does not slip through. The set that I have I bought from Snap On 20 some years ago. Summit has some nice ones also. Let me know what you get and think of it. Thanks Jerry
Hey Jerry, question about the supply line connection to the engine fuel rail. Did you buy an aftermarket rail or use the factory one? Mine has the dual connection at the rail. I guess that the LS truck intake. It’s the ugly one. 😂. Anyway, what do you suggest I do to connect my fuel lines? Can I take the return line from the rail and connect it to my new pressure regulator and then return from the regulator? Thanks.
Hello Joey. It depends what you have for a fuel rail. If you have a fuel rail that has a regulator in it, you would just return that unused fuel back to the fuel tank. If your fuel rail doesn't have a regulator in it, you would have to have a fuel pressure regulator that sends that regulated pressure to the rail. If you let us know a little more about your swap we can try to help more. Thanks for watching! --Jerry and Emily
I have a regulator built in to my fuel rail. I think I’m going to use the stock regulator. Thanks
I haven’t heard what fuel pumps you’re running? 1 in each tank?
Yes, one high pressure pump in each tank. Most likely they are Holley or Delphi pumps in the tank. Holley has a great price usually and they have a great reputation so I don't worry about getting junk from them.
I thought the regulator suppose to be before the feed line! I see u have to T fitting before the regulator
Thanks for watching! The regulator works by bleeding off excess pressure (fuel) into the return line, so everything between the pump, regulator, and fuel rail will have regulated fuel pressure.
Where did you instal the fuel pumps? In tank or external? And how did you get them to pump separately?
Hi Ivan, this truck has a Holley Sniper pump in each tank. Check out this playlist for a ton more info on the wiring and plumbing on this system! czcams.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC4TUjRqrBmqWNkxiJSnf84p.html We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperiencethank you. I’m doing my first swap 1985 k10 with a 2002 5.3 LM7. There are three lines that connect together, that seem to be part of the fuel system. I have the pressure, return, and Evap system lines all connected to the engine it’s elf. All the lines were cut out of the donor truck where the firewall would be. Where does the evap line go? Any guidance is appreciated
I have a 2003 L59 return style fuel rail. I blocked off the return at the fuel rail. This intake has the vacuum regulator on the rail. Can the vacuum line just be plugged on the regulator or is there something else that I need to do? Thanks
If you plug the vacuum port on the regulator, you are running the risk of having that fuel pressure diaphragm go bad someday and build up 58 lbs of pressure under that vacuum cap. If your going to run that system there is no need to cap that regulator. Run a vacuum line from it exiting out onto something not hot and in the event it did start to leak someday you would notice the fuel smell. Better to be dripping fuel than creating a fire ball. Hope that makes sense.
You could also just leave engine vacuum going to that regulator so in the event it did start to leak it would be drawn into the intake and through the motor which would end up throwing a running rich code. Those regulators leak all the time so I always go on the safe side.
@@UglyTruckExperience perfect thanks so much.
Which fuel filter did you use on this application? Thanks
Thanks for watching! I believe it was a Wix 33579 and a Dorman 800-153 line.
@@UglyTruckExperience Thanks so much
hello how are you very good video question i have a 2003 vortec 6.0 but the intake has a return do i have to use a regulator or just connect the return line to the fuel tank tk
If your intake has a return you will just need to run return back to tank. Install a new fuel pressure regulator on the rail or at least check your running pressure once you get it going. Thanks Ivan
@@UglyTruckExperience Thank you very much for answering. If I send you my truck's computer, you can program everything I need.
Where are you located?
@@UglyTruckExperience I am in Miami
We send our ECM's out to lt1swap.com for our computer programming. He has a great website that describes all the info he needs to get your computer set up. Take a look at his sight and let us know how it is going. Thanks Jerry and Emily
Can you please pass along the parts list and where you bought the check valves and other AN6 parts you used…thanks!
I just added a parts list in the video description! Thanks for watching! --Emily
Thanks very much!!! Great videos!!! Will you be doing a video on the 85 LS swap instrument cluster wiring to use the original gauges?
Yes! We'll definitely have some videos on the gauges on these upcoming swaps. In the meantime, here's a link to a video installing a speedometer adapter on our 1970 C10. It's the same process, but the parts will be a little different on a squarebody. czcams.com/video/hLqXYWG_WhY/video.html
Why use the old hard lines and not just go with regular holes to avoid the bends and clamp just asking
Hey Junior. Having the hard lines is just a cleaner and safer way for me to run these lines. When your talking about dual tanks with return lines, it is also cheaper for me to hard line them. Thanks for watching and your question. Jerry and Emily
Do you trust using Ferrell fittings on gas lines
It should be fine. I just don't like using plastic on a high pressure fuel line.
@@UglyTruckExperience well now that I saw you using those clamps, I just ordered me a set of those,
They're really handy! 👍
What’s the part number for everything you use
Switch valve: Standard Motor Products FV1.
Fuel Filter: Wix 33579
Fuel Filter Line/Fitting: Dorman 800-153
3/8 Steel Fuel Line
3/8 Gates Fuel Injection Hose
1/2 PEX clamps
I think that's everything, but just let me know if I missed one. Thanks for watching! 👍
You mentioned replacing the plastic fitting with a stainless one later. Do you happen to have that part number as well? I want to use as many oem components on my swap to get it running on a budget. Thanks
Why not just use a factory switching valve from an 87?
The switch valve from an 87 isn't made to handle 60 PSI fuel pressure. I've searched and searched for a valve I could purchase and haven't been able to find one that was rated for that much pressure.