Front End Noise, 2003 Honda Element Stabilizer Links - EricTheCarGuy
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- čas přidán 11. 06. 2011
- Front End Noise, 2003 Honda Element Stabilizer Links - EricTheCarGuy
www.ericthecarguy.com/
I get requests for tips on front end noise all the time and many times I suggest checking the stabilizer links particularly if you have a rattle when going over bumps. It just so happened I had this very problem with my own car and decided to make a video, she's all quiet now and corners like a dream, well corners very well considering it's a toaster.
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Stay dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
"There comes a point in every repair when you ask yourself, WHY am I making my life so difficult?"
*Sound and flash of torch igniting*
*Sound of supercharged hyperdriveness*
Epic ETCG moment
Was the best part! I bet I've watched it 3 or 4 times 😂
I found out the hard way how difficult this is. Mine was broken just like yours, and I thought to myself 'ah that doesn't look too difficult.' It was my first ever diy job I'd done on a car as well, only had hand tools. Baptism of fire.
Grinder, cutoff wheel, 30 seconds later, Eureka! I too have an 03' element, and love your videos. Just wantee to say thank you so much for the time and effort you put into thoroughly verbally and visually, explaining every repair!
Hey Eric the Car Guy! Thank you so much! My mechanic has been telling me he cannot hear this sound and not to worry and just leave it! I thought I was going crazy but me kid told me she could hear it too. Your video is the only one that I could actually hear the noise so THANKYOU!
Thanks! Eric, you saved me a whole lot of money. I have lots of medical bills so your videos really help not just me but my family. God Bless.
@MileyCyrus192 I actually covered that in the video if I remember correctly and I also think I mentioned that if you get aftermarket links they normally come in a set whereas for the most part Honda has all the parts listed separately for older link sets.
@Infinitrium Yes I have, I recommend getting under there and having a look to see if you can find any loose parts.
You have helped me understand the difficulty of this job and appreciate my mechanic a bit more. Thank you.
Man I don't know how my endless searches for videos exactly like yours haven't come up for me on youtube yet. I spent the last 18 months messing around with my 04 Honda Element suspension and your videos never came up!! Arg!!!
Thanks a lot!
Thank you very much, Eric!! That is the sound that had me stumped. What a giant pain that fix is. I especially appreciate the effort involved! I'm now a subscriber!
Eric! Thank you a ton for posting these videos! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge of the E!
Eric, just a tip for you on these stabilizer links. I typically just take a joint fork, pry bar, or air hammer and knock the links off of the ball ends. Leaving only the ball ends and nuts on the bar and strut or control arm. This allows you to pivot the stabilizer bar in it's bushings to under the vehicle for clearance and would save removing the axle. Then you could grab the ball ends with the big vise-grip and impact it right off. Of coarse that requires doing both sides.
@maxud28 Glad the video turned out to be timely for you. Thanks for the comment.
I can't tell you how much I appreciated the struggle... I just replaced mine on my 2010 Acura TSX last weekend. What a colossal pain! I ended up cutting them off with a power multi tool since I was doing it all by hand, and didn't have heat! DEFINITELY looks much easier than it is. Thanks for a great video!
@ssaxby02 The #1 thing that effects handling is tires, make sure yours are good and inflated to the proper pressure. Thanks for the comment and good luck.
@KNTRIDER I'm glad you share my sense of humor. Thanks very much for the comment.
have to thank you as much as you get dirty for the love of the mechanics. i have to confess that since i got my 2nd hand Honda Civic FD1 that i have that problem of noise when i hit speed limit bumps or whatever it is called, specially at cold weather, no body could diagnose what is the problem. this is happening since February 2014 and these days it becomes a clicking noise while turning left and hitting imperfections on the roads especially tight turns. the links on my stabilizer bar are in good shape visually that what no one could doubt it. dear Eric. i am not a mechanic but i am a daily follower of your videos, can't imagine my day without your advises. keep on moving and thank you for all what you are doing for us. a friend from Morocco.
@JEBinCLFD Yea I had to stay late to get this one done. Thanks for the comment.
Wow, I never thought I'd find a specific video about that VERY specific "rattle-jiggle" mysteriously coming from my right wheel-well. Thank you so much for posting this!
...I also now know that it's on my "eventually but probably never" get-it-fixed list because there's no way I'd even stand a chance without all that heavy (sometimes literal) firepower, much less proficiency with it! (Replacing my own alternator took like 2 weeks. LOL)
Well, I'm glad to know I at least know what it is now. Thanks! :D
@Motorfordtoyota You got lucky, it doesn't always work out so well in my experience. Thanks for the comment.
This video really helped me figure out what was all the rattling under my car (ran over a speed bump, but not too hard) and thought it was the exhaust pipe... then the noises just got louder by weeks past. I was concerned that one day my car would probably drop down all the way to the floor, but then I was relieved by what you said in the end "minor, not a safety problem" Now i know what it is, I just have to save up for the repair. From a college student, thanks Eric!
@dendorssers It does indeed, thanks for the comment and for the tip.
I just finished this job on a 95 windstar. Have done it on my 99 Accord. I ended up using a cutting wheel to cut the damn things off. Wish I had thought of tightening before loosening. Oh my God I am so buying a torch!
You are the only mechanic that doesn't swear while he works. Thanks for the video very helpful
@JohnzCarz Great suggestions, thanks for the comment.
@adamlee17 Not a clue without hearing it for myself, I recommend going back there and getting a look at the parts to look for anything loose or broken.
@andy5v You might also want to check out the video I did on Finding Suspension Noises if you don't find issue with the links. Good luck.
Thanks so much for posting this! I just finished replacing the sway bar webs links based on this video. It took me about 3 hours working in my garage with only hands tools (an hour of this was wasted as I tried to do this without removing the wheels!). I was able to insert an Allen wrench into the end of the bolts, so I feel lucky.
Cheers!
Ah Eric, looking at you young like this so full of life.
As always Eric, informational, great commentary on the actions taken, and of course fire and humor always rock!
@DOHCGsr Yea that would be a good way to go. Thanks for the comment.
@Explainagainhow Good point, thanks for the comment.
@grock1980 The fuel pressure regulator is a mechanical device and is not connected to the fuel injectors. You might do well to check the fuel pressure at the rail just to be sure that you have it as if the regulator goes bad it can sometimes cause a loss of pressure. Also you can use what is called a 'noid light' to check to see if you have a signal going to the injectors.
@mikocoon All too well. Thanks for the comment.
I could not believe my eyes. A week after watching your video I had a guy come in with a broken stabilizer bar link on a Acura TL. Don't have an Oxy torch, but wrestled the nuts of by using your tip of using needle nose wise grips. I was not looking forward to removing the axle, since those lower bushings tend to death grip the bolt. Thankfully did not have to. Keep up the awesome work you are doing!
I got lucky I guess, after watching your video for an Odyssey front strut replacement, and this video, I was adamant I make the effort to get a new stabilizer link, penetrating oil, tune up my impact gun and whatever else I did in prep for the major effort expected. Possibly it was because the penetrating stuff I bought, the nut practically spun itself off! I only waited for the fluid as long as it took me to get the safety glasses I forgot to put on, before I gave it a little spin from the impact gun, and voila it was done!
As for your vids, they are very well done and you very adequately describe the entire process, which is something I have found to be sorely lacking in many other DIY and especially commercially made videos. Thanks again.
On my 2005 CRV, I just did mine and took a hammer and chisel to knock off that hard plastic cap to expose the steel ball head under the stabilizer cap/head. Then also used a set of vise grips and the bolt came off without much difficulty. It was a bigger problem to get the thing positioned and fit back on. Thanks for the doing the video...
@foxdmulder Yea it seems every car maker has their engineering fun at some point. Thanks for the comment.
Hey Eric
Thank you so much for your video. You saved me a bundle
I own an ultra reliable Element 2005 with 175000 miles. I love my Toaster on wheels, Is my Hotelement, ideal for camping
I went to the dealer to get my oil changed and they told me that my airbags were recalled and that they could fix them right away. Of course after the fact, they came out with their upselling service list
I take care of most of my maintenance, so, most of the list, I just had to cross off.
The list included ,passenger compliance bushing and tie rod end bushing, driver's ball joint bushing and sway bar bushings
I decided to do both sides and ordered my parts online, I checked your videos and I started spraying PB Blaster on the fasteners every day until my parts arrived
I borrowed a 1/2" drive Bosch cordless impact wrench, that proved to be the ticket with the large size fastners17,19,32 mm universal joint ,12" and a 6" extensions with a wobble
All of the fastners came out very easily ,and the rest was smooth sailing
The dealer quoted $1400.00+ tax
My parts with delivery came to $280.00 plus 3 hrs. of my time
Thank you so much for your videos please keep'em coming , especially the ones for the Element
@patriley2 Yea you have to resort to that quite a bit, thanks for the comment.
@joe2mercs Yea I didn't mention it but I did have both wheels up which does help a great deal. Thanks very much for your comment.
@siemenstraffic I believe that is also true with a Pennsylvania inspection and may other inspections in some US states. Thanks for the tip.
Love the channel Eric, longtime viewer.
2004 CRV front links I used the MOOG parts: Moog K90455 and Moog K90454
2 reasons - 1) They have hexes on the body of the joint stud to make holding it easier, and it sticks out further for easier wrench/ViseGrips access.
2) Greasable. Use the Hose n Lotion wherever possible.
Tricks I use for those rusted original nuts = Heat deez nuts, split the nut with a Dremel and a cutting disc till it loses its grip on the stud threads.
Stay gold.
@380gb Yep, it's usually harder than it looks. Thanks for the comment.
@StratusCams Good plan, thanks for the comment.
@jozzu Yea that would be the way to go, thanks for the comment.
Way cool that you take the time to video and clue people in on how hard it can be to do some simple things while providing real world solutions. Keep up the good work.
@ocpm4tt No, I haven't but of course in a situation like that replacement would be advisable but if someone needed tires AND stabilizer links but could only afford one which would you recommend? My point was is that for the most part it's a low priority, I drove with that broken link for 5 months and didn't have any issues as a result other than the noise.
hey..i just changed them today.. you know those wrenches that act like socket wrenches..buy a set.. you gotta have
because there is not much space to do this fast..
i gotta say...i have a 2006.. and this dude helped me a lot.. thanks Eric
@pschuyler Possibly, didn't think of that but thanks for the comment.
@socalRooster Look for orange dust around suspension parts as this could indicate a loose part. Look for oil leaking from shocks also as this is a sign that they may be bad.
@mrjost55 Yea it does and your right about the boots but keep in mind I do this for a living and for us if we can let something go we do. Thanks for the comment.
@aeligos It may just be the steering stops need grease, watch the lubing front end video to see what I'm talking about.
@flexter83 Nope your right but as I said in the beginning of the video if you don't have air tools or fire forget about it, a grinder would be an air tool. Thanks for the comment.
@mazzmari No, I don't really feel that would have been necessary. Thanks for the comment.
@jmorgan456 Didn't think of that and I think I would have had to fish it over the exhaust. Thanks for the input and comment.
Eric your video was indeed helpful. I just replaced the end links on my wife's 2005 CRV. I only had to cut off one nut. I was fortunate to be able to use an allen wrench and a socket wrench for the other 3. I also took the opportunity to replace the bushings as well. No more clunks and squeaks. Keep those vids coming! Thanks!
Thanks Eric! Glad to see that even experienced people find it a PITA. I did this recently and thought it was just me.
@Explainagainhow Chassis ear, they do help as they were made for that very thing.
@r6homer You can reuse them, I've done it plenty but there are those that want to replace them every time.
@BuyMEaDriNk43 Hard to say a lot of things can contribute to that, I normally start by making the engine run as good as I can but if it still has an issue I start looking to the engine mounts.
@hytgggg As long as it works, thanks for the comment.
@dawg316 There are lots of different ways of doing things but this is how I did it and it worked just find for my purposes. Thanks for the comment.
@vietkid20062007 I normally don't even try to loosen those, I just cut them at the start. Thanks for the comment.
@mooserman911 It would be easier to stick with the Dexcool if I'm honest but I've heard that it doesn't do all that well over time. I'm wondering if you changed it more often if that would help. I don't think using regular coolant will hurt your engine but I know it's not good to mix dexcool with regular so you need to make sure to get all the old stuff out first.
Always great info used your tip and i used a angle grinder and notched a flat part on the broken link so my visegrip had something to bite.
Keep up the vids
Thanks Eric. You do great videos. Your attention to detail is the difference. Thanks
You always make me laugh man... "Why am I making my life so difficult"" whoof, sound of torch. Ha ha ha.
@Bubaluke39 The only way to know is to inspect the suspension as all I can do from here is guess.
Thanks Eric! Helped us diagnose a broken pass front endlink on a 03 Element. Cheers mate.
I was just about to ask you if it was a critical problem or not, but then the end of the video came and you told me. Nice mind reading ability there. Thank you for your time to make this video.
@JesusLoveToSkate Your welcome, thanks for the comment.
Thank you man! Your videos are always usefull! Thanks for everything and keep the good work
love your elemt videos dude
@citi0rhythm It's part of the assembly actually the inner part is made of neoprene and it protrudes from the housing in those 4 spots.
@Streamliner009 Well it is a 2003 so it's not that new but it was actually like that when I bought it, nothing has rotted through yet though.
@CoolasIce2 What I said was if you have other issues this might fall low on the priority list not that it shouldn't be done.
@Michiganborn1969 Not sure, your going to have to poke around a look at what your dealing with. Good luck.
@AGreedyTree Check the lower ball joints, if you bounce the car and hear the noise it's probably the lower ball joint on the side that makes the noise.
Hey Eric,
Guy from Aus again. Really appreciate the tips and the video. Really educational and gives me a great way to learn about my car. I'm going to spend a lot of time going through your videos. I've already learnt a bucketload.
I checked out the stabiliser links on the front like you recommended. My handling has been terrible lately but it doesn't seem to be the links. They weren't making any noise when I tested them. Next time I service it I'll look for movement in the other joints.
@ourkid2000 Propane no, I've never tried Mapp gas so I couldn't say on that one, I've always used my torches and been very happy with them.
@mrexecutive1 Doesn't matter with these as they are designed to pivot with the suspension. Think ball in socket.
@Enemyofreali7y Nope, lower ball joint, you might check the links but what you describe is classic lower ball joint noise. You might even try breaking it loose from the lower control arm and working it around for a while and reassembling it, this often makes the noise go away believe it or not.
@mizer6666 That would work, thanks for your comment.
I just got my first mechanic job this week. I already had to do links on 5 different cars. Eric is right about not trying this without heat. I also use a 2.5 foot 1/2 ratchet because a lot of the time theres no room for an impact.
Customers tell me when they went to other shops the mechanics just told them not to worry about the links and leave them alone. Its because it doesnt pay much and it can be frustrating.
This video saved my day. Went to replace them on my 98 Accord, thought it would be easy and quickly realized it was not. Followed your steps and got them all off. I already had a powerful impact but picked up a cheap MAP PRO torch which was adequate to heat the nuts up.
@infinity3jif Southern OH actually.
WHOA I did not knew you were beaming out in HD now Eric. Don't worry it wasn't scary. Great helpful video, thanks!
Very good video, answered questions about terrible noise in front end, many thanks. Also great reminder that all vehicles, including Hondas, and designed to build cheaply not repair easily.
@The18Jake I'd be checking the links first but I would inspect the entire suspension to find the problem.
Great vid and tips. I did mine recently on a 2003 CRV (on the rear)....gave up on the impact and cut them off w/ a dremel...didn't take too long but using heat is a lot quicker....will definitely try that next time. Replaced the OEM links w/ Moog (K80369/70)...came with grease fittings and no worthless hex key.
@BlazerLT I don't think they make serviceable stabilizer links at least I've never seen them.
@iloveheavymetal1 Yes they could be, see the video I did on diagnosing suspension noises.
I just finished replacing the links on my 2001 Civic. I did all 4 of them by hand. My air compressor is broken. It wasn't as hard as I thought. I used a propane torch to heat up the nuts and a pair of vice grips to hold the ball end of the joint. This video probably saved me $200 in labour and taxes. Thanks!
Thanks Eric! I have a 2004......was sad to see them discontinue the Element. It's been my favorite vehicle I've ever owned. Yours look pretty nice. Cheers!
Hi Eric, Thank you for the video. It is always good to have teacher go guide you through the process. I got mine done last week. I want to share my experience. In my case, I also have the lower bolt jammed. I also chipped the Allen key hole. The worst thing was I loosen the nut about one turn, and it cannot be tightened. So the linkage was loose. Without power tool, I ends up hand saw the bolt. It takes longer to think than actually cut it out. About 5 mins I cut the bolt and the linkage came out. My replacement part has new nut. So the job was done. Yeah
@DStylesHanska Thanks for the tip.
I don't want to discourage you, Eric, for every time I watch one of your videos I learn at least ONE thing about servicing cars. But if you read the Honda Element Service Manuals, you will find two things. First, there ARE different left and right parts: the left (genuine Honda part) is marked with yellow paint, and the right with white paint (the later SC models used red for the left and blue for the right). Second, unlike aftermarket links, each Honda links has a restricted range of rotary motion on each of the two shafts, and when tightening them, the shafts must be held in the centre of that range of motion. THAT is what the Allen key provision is all about: to hold the shaft from rotating while tightening the nuts. I am used to servicing aircraft, where exact adherence to the Service Manual is often a life-and-death thing. I love my Element and I appreciate your videos. Please keep producing them!
@grock1980 Do you have power and ground at the pump? If not find out why and that will probably solve it. Throwing parts at things just gets expensive.
Thanks for the video. Being prepared is 1/2 the battle so when I had to go for the vice grips and give up the hex key I was not thinking "Is it only me?"