2006 Honda Element Front Left Lower Control Arm & Bushing
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Parts available at Amazon:
Front Left Lower Control Arm Assembly (Driver-Side): amzn.to/2rD6ojC
Front Right Lower Control Arm Assembly (Passenger-Side) amzn.to/2qG2XuB
01:32 - Unbolt Sway Bar Link Pin
06:04 - Unbolt Lower Ball Joint
08:03 - Remove Control Arm
08:57 - Compare Parts
09:50 - Install Control Arm
16:40 - Bolt Sway Bar Link Pin
good job explaining all the important points and working with some finesse; noting mistakes. also appreciate the tip about preloading then torquing.
Personally if it were my vehicle I would do a complete front end suspension repair thanks to videos like his I learn how to and save $ on repairs.
You are the best, better than rest. I had a locked cv joint, unlock it by turn the steering to left as per your advice. 👍
11:15 - Thank you for this explanation!
I did the same thing, but I got mine back together WITHOUT properly re-seating the axle and that made for some scary stuff on the post-work test drive.
How did you do it
Great video! Exactly the tutorial I needed for my 2003 Element!
Sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!
@Curtis Rodney instablaster :)
@Justus Pierce i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Justus Pierce It worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass :D
@Curtis Rodney Happy to help =)
I use locking needle nose pliers on the back to hold the stud still. Using the 5mm hex rarely works.
I've used needle nose vise grips on the backside if stabilizer link to keep it from spinning.
01 odyssey. At highway speed the van veers right when foot taken off accelerator. The steering wheel a actually ticks slightly left when this happens. Then the van corrects itself when accelerator is pressed again. And goes back to straight.
There is tiny tie-rod play both sides. Tires have even wear.
Van cluncks front left when accelerating after coming to a complete stop.
Front and upper right motor mounts were just replaced.
My nephew replaced both struts and springs about a month ago.
Passrnger side vertical control arm bushing has some cracking.
Van has 191,000 miles. All rubber suspension bushings were replaced at 135,000. Plus motor and tranny mounts.
Just love the video quality, lighting, visuals, etc are great. Thank you!!
So the axle did not come out by where the spline and transmission meet in which case one would tap it back in from where the axle meets the wheel hub and push it back into its clip where it would lock in at the transmission," but rather at the joint Right? and to avoid this "when working on the left side" Before pulling ball joint out of arm we need to make sure steering is unlocked and wheel cut to left THEN release ball joint from arm?? And this will be prevented?? Great videos too I love all your crv and element ones i own both!
Please use wire wheel brush or muriatic acid to completely clean the ball joint and sway bar link bolt threads before doing anything. Penetrating oil is for lubrication not for removing rust
No one does that
Just cut the links. They dont cost that much to replace.
So they have great caster on the drivers side now and yes yes, so much easier to just remove the whole rotor/hub assembly out of the way....i do it all the time.
Use a nut splitter instead of a grinder. Just did my drop links. 30 minutes a side on the floor.
SHIFTY yeaup that works also, thanks for watching!
@@APDTY This is a great video! Thank you. The sway bar link is only $20 from Honda and is likely the next thing to go bad. Cut it off with that grinder. Probably save you an hour of messing with that old one, but your patience was amazing. : )
I think I would go ahead and replace those sway bar links. The ball joints in them wear out and start to sound clunky.
the engeneers responsible for this design should be made to try and get off old rusty ones 12 hours a day for the rest of their lives
we would love that!!
Thank you for this video!
thanks for watching and commenting!!
Im pretty sure alot or the majority of the commenters say to just cut the stud all together and replace the link. 😠 how much is a link anyways?
that sounds much better to me, sometimes you have to do exactly what the customer wants though.
Good video, but instead of spending all that time trying to get the link pin for the sway bar off, just cut it off and replace. 6 minutes in and finally moving on to the next step....
Should the sway bar links be replaced. Is it just a simple unbolt the sway bar link, or are they other things to remove? You already "cut" off one of the nuts?. I need to have my shop replace the arm, and they stated keep the ball joint since it is more labor to remove it.
Ok so I am having the same issue u had, the axle seems longer and won't alow me to get the lower ball joint into the control arm
oh ok, it just needs to be turned back and pushed back in, watch a few videos on what the inside of a cv joint looks like and then you can usually just snap it back in.
Great video. My 06 Element is having this issue on the front right. I was told that other than the pop sound, it won't cause much problem? Any suggestions?
just had linkage changed new and control arm and even new ball joint get a bump noise when turn well or stopping
a thorough inspection of the front end would be required. Worst case scenario a shop should be able to figure out what is causing the noise and then you can fix it yourself, also if the noise was not there before and exists only after this repair, then the job needs to be gone back over.
It'll be your upper bearings on your shock absorber assembly.
Love this video
To all of you: is it possible to get the ball joint OUT of the casing without a special tool? I am not talking about the pitch forck but the C clamp. Thank you for helping.
Yes it is totally possible, You can use a pickle fork (although it can tear the rubber boot) or you can smack the input or receiving side (control arm side on this vehicle) with a hammer and this will vibrate the joint enough to dislodge it.A nice hard seal nice and square next to the ball joint stud as it goes through the control arm will get it loose, sometimes a few whacks with the hammer is needed, just be careful you hut where you want to hit and don't damage anything with the hammer.
Auto Parts Direct To You Thank you very much for taking the time to answer. Yes I do understand that part and will do as you say (even though I have the fork ). My problem is related to the housing of the ball joint on my Honda Element . I need to pop it out of the casing. Yesterday I rented the C clamp and the Honda adapters. I will tell how it went. Cheers !
How do I pop the bearing back in on the Boot? How did u do so?
bearing or cv axle? the bearing should not come out, I think you are referring to the cv axle, if you just turn it slightly (untwist the the cv boot) and push it in, it will go back, if the rubber boot or clamps are damaged, then you would need to replace both of those, watch some youtube videos on cv axle replacement or cv boot replacement, it is not too hard but it can seem intimidating.
Fantastic thanks , only thing I would disagree with is , you did not replace the ball joint with the broken boot.. Now the customer would have to pay you for another service , when it could have been done in this one. But that's business if the customer decides not to have it done this time around. And if the customer was not notified about , that's just dirty business..
yes you are correct, the ball joint should have been replaced and it would have been less labor in the long run and nice and easy since we were so close, I don't really remember all that much about it as this was awhile ago, but we can only fix what the customer approves, this car is actually an employee of ours and we don't charge labor so im sure we told him as why would we not?
Yep just like not telling you about a bad rear main seal when changing a transmission.
Yep definitely didn't replace the ball joint. you can see the torn ball joint boot and corroded castle nut throught the video. This video would be much longer if the ball joint had been replaced. The steering knuckle has to be pulled and the ball joint pressed out of the knuckle.
JOGO and they said they replaced the ball joint but on the element / crv you have to remove the CV joint to get to it and I didn't see that on the video
If they mentioned replacing it other than in the video title I must have missed it. Watching the video the ball joint is rusty at the end of the stud when he gets the nut off, notice it's also rusty when he puts the rusty nut back on. New ball joint would come with a new nut.
Great instructional video though, it will help many.
Can having this issue cause tires to constantly shred?
I haven't experienced that in my CRV. My boyfrieds '11 Mazda3 has that issue and it's his tire rod. Definitely take it in to get it all looked at. Its work the money to get a full rap sheet so that you know what you can fix yourself and what you can't. Good luck, obviously it's a year later so maybe you already got it fixed.
How do you/did you "line the joint back up?"
which joint?
Wire brush the nut before.dude