I'm glad you're doing this, I'm starting to work on my Papaw's 64, 4000 row crop. I'm starting with the injector pump, and it's got a lot of trash in there.
Nice. I had to rebuild the injection pump on this one when I first got it. The tractor wouldn't idle below 1700 and had no throttle response. I knew from my 861-D that the governor ring was broken. When I took it apart there was no ring to be found other than little pieces of it. Luckily those didn't damage the pump. I wished I had a better video of rebuilding my pump but it was the first video I made and it was done with a cell phone. Maybe one day I'll get another pump and do a better video.
I was trained to torque the nut to 50 ft lbs then back it off half a hex and then find the first hole for the cotter pin always moving CCW never CW. The new seal gives a false sense of drag.
Having a dust cap with a zerk grease fitting is essential. The reason is the poor design of the primitive seal. The zerk allows you to pressurize the hub with grease and push any migrating contaminants back out around the seal. Once the seal wears just a little water and dirt start to enter the hub. A zerked cap acts like a bearing buddy that allows fresh grease to be pushed into the bearing. If you go that route it will diminish your maintenance substantially. After continually having seal issues I just ordered those zerked dust covers today. I also purchased the Seal's from New Holland at 65 bucks each. With the zerks I hope to minimize seal and bearing Wear.
I love your videos and they have helped me immensely with my 1955 Ford 860. The grease seals on these Ford hubs is odd in that it seals to the vertical surface on the spindle and not the horizontal. This seems to create outward pressure and friction when adjusting the bearings tightness which when watching your video, it looked like you loosened the nut more than a full turn, which on any other hub in my experience seemed excessive and I am suspicious that the bearings are too loose and the grease seal was causing rotational friction and not over tight bearings. Have you driven the tractor enough to wear the grease seals and checked the bearing play? Thanks again for all your help.
Yes. Sometimes you have to go back and tighten them up some. I always over tighten them a little to help compensate for the seal drag and help them wear in better when plowing. Glad my videos have helped you.
Great video!!!! It's exactly what I needed to know!
You are still doing great work!
I'm glad you're doing this, I'm starting to work on my Papaw's 64, 4000 row crop. I'm starting with the injector pump, and it's got a lot of trash in there.
Nice. I had to rebuild the injection pump on this one when I first got it. The tractor wouldn't idle below 1700 and had no throttle response. I knew from my 861-D that the governor ring was broken. When I took it apart there was no ring to be found other than little pieces of it. Luckily those didn't damage the pump. I wished I had a better video of rebuilding my pump but it was the first video I made and it was done with a cell phone. Maybe one day I'll get another pump and do a better video.
I was trained to torque the nut to 50 ft lbs then back it off half a hex and then find the first hole for the cotter pin always moving CCW never CW. The new seal gives a false sense of drag.
I agree, thats the method I was taught. I also do the same on any trailers with taper roller bearings.
Having a dust cap with a zerk grease
fitting is essential. The reason is the poor design of the primitive seal. The zerk allows you to pressurize the hub with grease and push any migrating contaminants back out around the seal. Once the seal wears just a little water and dirt start to enter the hub. A zerked cap acts like a bearing buddy that allows fresh grease to be pushed into the bearing. If you go that route it will diminish your maintenance substantially. After continually having seal issues I just ordered those zerked dust covers today. I also purchased the Seal's from New Holland at 65 bucks each. With the zerks I hope to minimize seal and bearing Wear.
Helpful video thanks
This has been incredibly helpful. What do you film with? The video quality is amazing for these details.
Thank you. I use a Sony a6400 with a 35mm prime lens at f8. Pretty sure it's recorded in 1080p also.
I love your videos and they have helped me immensely with my 1955 Ford 860. The grease seals on these Ford hubs is odd in that it seals to the vertical surface on the spindle and not the horizontal. This seems to create outward pressure and friction when adjusting the bearings tightness which when watching your video, it looked like you loosened the nut more than a full turn, which on any other hub in my experience seemed excessive and I am suspicious that the bearings are too loose and the grease seal was causing rotational friction and not over tight bearings. Have you driven the tractor enough to wear the grease seals and checked the bearing play? Thanks again for all your help.
Yes. Sometimes you have to go back and tighten them up some. I always over tighten them a little to help compensate for the seal drag and help them wear in better when plowing.
Glad my videos have helped you.
What was part #s please
All numbers are in video when parts are installed.