Adjusting Foxbody Mustang Throttle Position Sensor for proper idle, (not .98 volts)
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- čas přidán 12. 07. 2024
- There's a right way and wrong way to do everything. I can't count the number of times I've heard people say you have to adjust your throttle body on a foxbody mustang so that the throttle position sensor (TPS) is at exactly .98 volts. Others just say it has to be under 1 volt, but any more will cause poor idle. I'm here to tell you that's a sham.
In this video I'll show you how to measure your TPS value by logging the data with a Moates QuarterHorse and Binary editor, and how to properly adjust your throttle body's stop screw based on the duty cycle of your idle air valve. I also show you the minimum and maximum allowed ranges of the TPS at idle to prevent throwing an error code and how to change these limits if necessary. Lastly, there is an explanation of proper procedures for altering the set screw without making the computer think you're in part throttle mode.
If you find these videos helpful, feel free to support the cause by sharing this video or donating a few "beer money" dollars to us at www.paypal.com/paypalme/thele... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I'd like to possibly add some info to this .98v myth. I still have a copy of the Ford Racing idle setting procedure that i printed many years ago. It says the procedure MUST be performed in sequence. Basically warm the engine, disconnect the IAC and adjust the throttle body until the engine can idle without the IAC and set idle speed, then set the TPS voltage to anywhere between .96 - .98 volts, disconnect battery terminal for 20 mins, reconnect everything. So, Ford and Ford racing are the ones who put this instruction out and I'm sure many like myself have these instructions and follow them cause Ford said to. My standalone in my 95 GT let's me calibrate the TPS whenever, so i don't need to be concerned about the voltage. Good video as customary🏆
I've been slowly watching all of your videos. The wealth of knowledge is amazing and you've totally sold me to stick with my stock computer when i start my HC Boosted combo sometime in the spring/summer! We'll be in touch for sure!
You set me on track to fix my 347's idle. Bravo Sir and Thank You!
Fantastic. I’d also be happy to review your logs with you any time. Hit us up on our Leech Motorsports Facebook page.
Came from Brew2L’ channel . Subscribed . Great info
Thanks man. Welcome. We are always looking for technical topics to discuss. Let us know if you have any ideas.
Great video by someone who really knows what they are talking about. I wish there were more knowledgeable guys like this so our cars would be properly tuned
Awesome job explaining IAC.
Very informative and useful. Thanks very much.
Another awesome video thank you sir
This drives me crazy too! haha one thing to note is when I do move it around I will unhook the battery and put the leads together to remove any tps idle learned values. what I normally do is unhook the tps sensor. with it running adjust my throttle stop, get my iac transfer function values, spark idle happy, fueling, etc... shut it off. input all my learned values in the tune. disconnect battery and put the leads together to drain any learned values. once I hook the battery and tps sensor back up my new values and learned idle tps voltage is set.
Awesome Information as Always 🙏🌅. 💪😎👍
Did my first datalog today and was confused why my ISC Duty Cycle was steady at 17.5…hop on your channel, and boom- there’s the answers. Will be adjusting the throttle set screw after I dial in my idle fuel but wanted to confirm I knew how to datalog first lol thanks again for the vids!
Glad they helped out. Feel free to message or email us if you get any logs or tunes you’d like us to look at sometime.
@@LeechMotorsports much appreciated. I’m keeping that option in my back pocket for sure 👍🏼
thanks again....love these videos
Appreciate it. Any topics you’d like me to discuss in the next week or two?
@@LeechMotorsports well anything even starting with basics like setting up live datalogging...everything is helping me I have BE and a blown foxbody tuned by tuners inc.. I have 3 coyote platforms I use hptuners on myself kinda new on BE so your helping me greatly
386 Racing Addictions No problem. I’ll get a few setup videos out there and basic logging/playback stuff. Also a video that shows how to hook your wideband up for logging.
Whats odd is the facts of when you go to calculate ThrottleBody Airflow the instructions state that you must datalog certain parameters and the TPS voltage must be set to .095 when doing this procedure. I tried doing a log at .70 , .80 , .90 and .95 and didnt touch anything but the TPS and I got 4 different log files with loads that varied between 8 and 17 from lowest to highest with lower loads yielding the highest timing advances into the 58 and 59 range running around the block at just 900 RPM's and MAF values varied pretty greatly between voltage and KG/hr too ..
I found that when I adjusted my base TPS voltage in the tune from the value setting of 1.25 volts to reflect a couple volts above the actual throttle setting between different voltage setpoints the load values in the log at idle were generally all the same..
Thank you for this video. I had NA cams and an accufab throttle body put on my 01 cobra; the tune was great except now car dies all the time when I come to a stop or if I'm not smooth with the clutch engagement. When my car comes to a complete stop (having coasted in neutral) the revs drop to about 200-400 RPM and it either dies or finds normal idle. It also dies if I rev the car in neutral at a stop. My tuner said there's nothing they can adjust in the tune and it's probably something with my throttle body...disappointed that I paid for such an expensive tune and they won't help me work out the idle.
Based on this video it looks like I can log RATCH, ISCDTY, and N (that's the rev count right?) to see if my IAC is in the correct range at idle. Do you think my adjustments will be affected by having more aggressive cams? Please let me know if you have any suggestions. I really hope I can fix this idle and enjoy my car!
Hey just curious... you mentioned that your Mass Air needs to be dialed in... did I miss it somewhere where you covered the MAF table in a video?
No haven’t really jumped into that yet. Will possibly have time to make a video about that this weekend though. The video will be titled something like “injectors vs. MAF transfer... what to change to dial in your fuel.” That will also be the first video where I get into eec analyzer and talk about how that tool can be used to provide some guidance on changes based on a prior log.
I'll say this on 94 95 its different.. they I guess reset when the key turns off buttttttt I just replaced my tps with a o'Reilly cheapy .... welllllllllll it dont work well at all
So I grabbed one at a local yard and issue fixed
Mine is set at 0.95V at idle Amd 4.96 V at WOT idles good at 850rpm with a healthy little cam,heads,intake
AAARghhhhh , my fuel pressure is not dropping when I put the vacuum back on the regulator ; however it's not leaking any fuel there to vacuum . Steady 40 pounds and rich at idle . Gotta change the regulator first . '91 Lincoln Mark vii .
So i have a accufab 75mm TB and they say not to move it because its set from accufab. My car idles like crap and not sure if i should adjust it or not.
Yeah I’ve read that as well on the accufab website... that they are preset from them. But it’s impossible to “preset” a throttle body and get a good idle. This is due to the different idle air requirements for different engines and the fact that an untuned factory Ecm has all that stuff calibrated with the assumption that the engine is stock. Then throw a bigger cam or a stroker kit on top, and the problem gets worse. The computer controls idle in closed loop with timing and idle air control. The car constantly checks your current Rpms vs the desired Rpms in the calibration. When you go under or over speed, it reacts to try to get back to desired. But with a big cam, you’ll naturally have larger deviations. You have to generally raise the idle up some and desensitize the over/under speed correction so it doesn’t constantly freak out. Looking forward to working with your car!
On the moates page it says optimal TPS voltage is .96volts....Is Moates starting another myth? Oh and when I slotted my TPS I got a range from .82 volts to 1.06 volts....My setup seems to like the TPS set to .94 volts..If I could get my dash to work I'd be able to log The ISC duty cycle but unfortunately I'm doing my calibrations with a DVOM at the moment as noone can tell me how to incorporate the dash into my BE
Moates states that for another reason... which is that on a stock engine and components, that actually DOES get you in the ballpark. But there should be absolutely no discernable difference on your setup bumping the sensors around from .82 to 1.06 volts. If it's in range, pretty much the entire system will work identically. There are a very small number of settings in the tune based on the direct TPS readings, rather than the RATCH value (which is the lowest throttle voltage seen since the beginning of the current key on cycle).
What about a rebuilt 302 - a9p /e303 cam/ gt40p heads / cobra upper n lower intake / 70mm tb/ #19 cal maf/ 19 injectors/ I've tried to base idle reset it but... It's surging now ... I have tps set to 0.89 but I can't tweak it info would help brother... Now I have put springs on heads yet so yea... Idk
Did you remedy this? I have almost the exact same build, with the same problem.
@@williampost4435 redone base idle reset buddy
Can we get a video about changing the stock HO manifold for a cobra manifold without touching the tune.
Which computer? Mass air or speed density?
@@LeechMotorsports MAF
V Motoring I can do that. I’ve got a pretty good idea for how I want to present that information as well. I’d like to start by taking a stock upper and a cobra upper intake (I have both in the garage right now) and fill both with water to measure the actual manifold volume. Then discuss how this difference will impact the vehicle without a tune. Runner length, port design, and overall airflow will also matter here, but the manifold volume and matched throttle body swap will make the biggest difference here.
I'm curious as to how it would also work with the stock throttle body.
From what I've come across the E7 heads outflow the HO manifold by a fair margine and changing to any of the other manifolds (explorer, GT40 or Cobra) will allow the engine to breath better as the better manifold will outflow the heads.
More air, more power.
Even with the stock throttle body it should give some sort of increase in power but at what cost in regards to fueling.
I have stock a 90 MA A9L.
I picked up a 2001 Explorer non EGR and Exp 65 mm TB ... Cheap.
I also have a set of C6OE-M big plug 289 heads fully ported with 1.94/1.60 valves, peanut chambers valve unshrouded and 56 cc. (9.7/1 comp) About 190/145 cfm.
(Price was free) 😁
Trying to learn what I am up against.😎😎
Thanks.
Foxbody fans do this , warm your car up , at least 20 minutes . Shut car off , unplug iac , pull timing tap from spout so the computer won't advance timing . Mark balancer at 10 degreess BTDC . Hook up timing light and start car , adjustable throttle screw till the engine runs on its own power , 650/700 rpms . Turn on timing light aim at balancer to verify timing , unplug timing light and shut car off . Turn ignition switch to on , do not start , with voltmeter set tps to 8.5 - 9.5 volts . Restart car should idle on its own . Disconnect battery ground cable for 20 minutes . Insert timing tab back into spout , plug in iac . Connect battery and start the car up , you will immediately hear the car relearning. Let run for two minutes and shut off , wait two minutes and restart with all accessories on for two minutes , drive for at least 25 minutes or longer so the eec can fine tune itself . Hopefully this helps . Long live the Foxbody.
Do you do remote tuning? I have a vortech supercharged 347 in my 93 hatch with FAST XFI 2.0
We do tons of remote tuning every day. In fact there are few tunes we do in person. We have not worked with me fast xfi system, but we would like to use this as an opportunity to work with you and explore its capabilities. Please email me at matt@leechmotorsports.com with tour contact info and we can discuss.
🔔👍👍👍👍👍
😁🇺🇸😎
How can I have my mustang tuned by you?
Send an email to cody@leechmotorsports.com with a brief description of the vehicle and what you are looking to have done by our team. Be sure to include your phone number also.
Is this applicable on a 98 gt?
No. This discussion is very specific to fox bodies, and somewhat applicable to 94-95 5.0 cars. But mod motor stuff is totally different.
@@LeechMotorsports thanks for the response! But yeah alright lol hard to find good info on those motors
If you’ve got some logs, email them over to me along with a current copy of your tune. I’d be happy to look at them. If you decide to do that, be sure to state what strategy you are running also. Matt@LeechMotorsports.com
The computer zeros out the tps voltage every start.. thats common knowledge
I agree with you on that, but the real point of this video is to discuss actual airflow requirements of the engine, and the relation between actual throttle blade position, idle air duty cycle, the stock tune’s expectations, and tps voltage min/max allowed.
I have a new unused quarter horse for my 88 gt. Internally engine is stock. Only mods are explorer upper and lower and bigger 65mm tb and exhaust. Would I benefit from using it. In the future I’d like to add a mild cam. Still running speed density. Tia
There is always something that can be improved upon with tuning. Especially when the cam or heads are changed.