Weird Drivability? DIY Throttle Position Sensor Repair - 1987-1997 OBS Ford 5.0L TPS
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- čas přidán 17. 03. 2022
- Let's diagnosis a failing throttle position sensor on our revival F-150!
Are you having check engine lights (Ford code 121 and 124), weird drivability, dead spots in the throttle or down on power? Well those symptoms are exactly what was happening on our 1995 Ford F150 project truck.
Unfortunately the TPS is underneath the throttle body, so the first thing we did was remove the black air intake tubes connected to the throttle body. Remove the evap purge valve, coolant lines, disconnect the IAC (idle air control valve) and the TPS sensor plug.
Once you have you throttle body removed you can access the sensor located on the bottom of the housing. I planned on a replacement sensor but I was still curious what the voltages looked like and performed a sensor test.
Here's the wiring guide for 87-97 F150/F250/Bronco 5.0L/302
Black - Ground
Green - Signal Sense
Orange - Power (5V)
When at idle you want to see under 1 volt. I believe Ford's run best with a closed idle voltage between .90 and .99 volts. To get this I had to drill out the TPS sensor holes just slightly to get enough adjustment to make that happen. You also want to see a very linear movement when you slowly open the throttle blades - 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, etc. all the way up to 4.5 -5v. This will get you the proper calibration the computer needs to determine the blade position.
Reassembly is the reverse of installation after you give everything a good cleaning. I also cleaned out IAC valve to make sure it was moving freely. The throttle body bolts need tightened between 13 - 15 lb-ft or a firm hand tight.
And that's it! Enjoy your better running truck!
#obsford #bronco #throttlebody
Ford F series trucks and Broncos from 1980-1997.
1991 Ford F150
1992 Ford F150
1993 Ford F150
1994 Ford F150
1995 Ford F150
1996 Ford F150
1997 Ford F250 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Quick tip if your in a bind just unplug the sensor if it runs better unplugged it may give you a clue that it's bad or it may get you home without a tow truck.
Right on - I’ve never tried that acrually!
My 91 F150 5.0 is a steaming pile, but these videos just might be what I need to get the engine right along with a few good laughs. Keep them coming 😂👍🏽
They are our steaming piles haha
Can not believe you are only at 2.4k try doing other things as well. You have a gift for making video's
Awww thanks buddy! I’m glad you’re here
Fantastic video man! Wasn't my problem but I watched the whole thing anyway. Loved it!
Thank you! Video was great, easy to understand and follow. Appreciate the testing in it too, loved the little bit of comedy, my 92 threw the code 122 so I'm just gonna go ahead and replace the sensor
Makes sense - howd it turn out??
Great! Solved the code
@@grapegreen5886 heck ya - glad it worked out for ya!
@@MatthewFinlay for sure thanks for the video! It helped alot
Thanks for the video it was fun and entertaining
Gotta love the commentary 😂 ... Great video ... Thank you
Thanks buddy! Hope your repairs go well!
You’re going big bro
Thanks buddy! You’re awesome and even I don’t, I’m glad you are here and enjoyed our video!
Fantastic job.
I had a constant fast idle and took my iac sensor off and cleaned it with carburetor cleaner and it runs great now
Yup, common problem on pretty much anything with an iac honestly
We’re all learning here buddy! IAC stands for idle air control valve. It’s basically a way for engines to adjust the idle speed. It opens and closes to add extra air or take away air. It’s on the side of the throttle body, held on by two small bolts and has an electrical connector on the end. Over time it gets filled with carbon, crap and just worn out - this will cause erratic conditions if it’s failing or I’ve seen some stuff that won’t even idle. Our Ford will usually idle, but it depends on air temp and the rest of the truck really.
@@MatthewFinlay I still have my 93 that I bought new. 283K miles. When starting cold it hovers around 1600 for about a min., then drops to about 1100 rpm. What should the idle rpms be?
It should be right around 750-850, anywhere around there should be fine. That’s in drive neutral will be slightly higher, 850-900. I’ve seen trucks idle from 700-1000, it kinda just seems normal for them to have this spread. Is it a manual or auto - manuals usually idle lower in my experience
next time your up in Canada, tell your uncle Red hello.... Love the show.
Will do buddy! I’m glad you enjoyed it and that you’re here!
Great video 💪🫵
Love ya dude ,stay gold!!!! ❤❤❤
Thanks buddy! I’ll try to keep the garbage coming!
I wish all how to tutorials were this well explained/funny
*edit*: My old girl surprisingly hasn’t had the check engine light go on. It was on for the longest till a new set of plug wires n a cap came along. No one believes me when I say I fixed it
great vid!
on my 1988 f250 5.8L i would keep having the voltage wire to the MAP sensor from computer not reading correct voltage. the problem was that when it rained or i washed it, water would run along the rubber hood to firewall seal then dump onto the MAP sensor. all the MAP sensors now have a breather opening around what looks like the seal between the top and bottom parts of the MAP sensor so water runs right off in the sensor and shorts it out. and on these trucks the MAP sensor and THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR and IAC are wired together in the harness. i found a way to fix this. i took a 2 liter soda bottle and cut a squared section out of the bottle . then i set the MAP sensor on it and marked 2 holes for the screws to the mounting bracket. make sure that the plastic cover over hangs the edges of the MAP sensor and also put some RTV / SILICONE AROUND THE HOLES IN THE PLASTIC COVER TO SEAL IT OFF FROM WATER. 9 times out of 10. those computer checkers wont show a code for the map sensor being bad. and the truck will run like the TPS sensor and / or the IAC is bad. also make sure you put something between the MAP sensor and the plastic cover you made. air has to get in and out of the sensor. i put a Q-tip stick ( without the cotton ends) and a small dab of RTV to keep it in place. this may not work for everyone that has a 1987-1996 truck. but for me it did. hopes this helps some of you guys out there. also remember this. if you drill out the hole on the tps it will void out any warranty on it. i have tried setting the TPS to .99 and my truck will buck and run like crap. mine is set to what it is out of the box at about .90-.92 and she runs very good and can chirp the tires at times. just remember , no 2 trucks will run the same. but you can go to salvage yard and get TPS pig tail wire connector and get an adjustable TPS for a 5.0 mustang that way you dont lose the warranty on the part. then you can adjust it as you see fit. all im saying is i hope this helps some of you
Literally going through all of this. Your a true hero. If you ever in the PNW…I owe ya a beer
Have one on me too, partner. This exactly what I needed to read. For the 1988 ranger 2.3, Walker products makes an aftermarket tps. THEY ARE GARBAGE
@@triadrelicrecovery6724 i found something easier to do that doesnt hurt the map sensor. just take some RTV and fill in the seam on the sensor. doses not hurt it a bit and keeps the water out. and i still make a cover for it just incase though. also i finally broke down and bought a motorcraft map sensor. man its a night and day difference
@@alexmarion2674 i appricate that and sorry for not responding sooner. go ahead and have that beer for your self and i hope it help you out in some way
Good Job Man, I have a 95 and a 1996 F150 XL and XLT really wished you had some video on those motors. Hell you might have I have not looked BUT I did subscribe so perhaps you do; i'll look around. BTW This was a great CZcams, you are direct, to the point, not a bunch of UH UH, hold on ETC I would rate your presentation a 95 out of 100, only holding on the last 5% just in the even someone else actually does a better job
Haha so we are grading on a curve, I love it! And thanks buddy I’m glad you’re here! The F150 is a more recent project so I haven’t had too many things pop up yet but it’s got a heck of a to-do list.
Good video
Thanks buddy!
Great Job.
Thanks buddy! Glad you stopped by
Got a 93 and 94 F150 and a 94 Bronco...you hit all the marks in an easy to understand way.
Niiiiiice fleet sir, I only have this 1995 F150….. for now haha
The 94 F150 is actually a Lightning.
Great video all around! Truck parts on the wife's favorite tablecloth? You're going to have some "splaining to do".:)
I was drilling something on it the other day and nicked the tablecloth with the bit and my first worries wasn’t the part, the table, or the bit…. Only my life
Yes, I got a comedy lesson too ., lol ., Well I say to you, for those who want to file any complaint, I guess you gotta put up a greivance box lol., for me you are good, you put humor in it, I just bought the idle control., what exactly does it do? thank you, I gave you a thumbs up obviously, have a great weekend
Thanks buddy! I’m glad you enjoyed the video and hopefully it helps you. The idle control valve pulses open and closed to provide the airflow needed to maintain a stable idle. It also helps command certain rpm’s - when you start the truck and the engines cold it’ll maintain a higher idle speed and slowly ramp down - welp that’s your idle control valve feeding the engine extra air. New cars with drive by wire throttle bodies will actually just command the throttle blade to open further and no longer have IAC valves - kinda neat
I'm leaving you a like because I needed to know this, I might do a video on my channel for the same thing on a 1989, thanks man! I envy you for 1.45 thousand subs to your channel, I only dream of that number bud, I'm just starting out though.
You're awesome buddy! Do it, you gotta just get out there and try. For better or worse for the audience I haven't given up yet haha
Thanks.
Of course! Thanks for watching! Good luck on your TPS issues.
Oh. Nice. Monkey brain is happy.
I didn't even think of lab testing the TPS. I might do that on mine after really doing some research.
You can also probe the middle wire on the tps while it’s plugged into to the factory harness. I hate poking holes in wires though so you could always extend the power and ground wire and then probe away into the back of the connector. Remember it’s 5v - so if ya send it 12v it’ll only work… once haha. I’ve also see the ecu’s not put out exactly 5v too. Thanks for watching big dawg
No driveability test afterwards? a before and after driveability test might be helpful for some of your viewers. but I guess they'll get the gist of it.
Nice explaining 👌.
My bronco 1991 5.8 crank no starting. Replace oil sensor, and other stuff still same problem not starting
Thanks buddy! Do you have fuel and spark?
Could be ignition control module.
Great video. Watch tip...play it at .75 speed as he seems a bit hopped up on caffeine....either that or I am moving at a slower speed.
My 93 bronco 5.0 is having a problem where it wants to quit accelerating after warmed up I checked codes and got 63 and a few coolant codes I changed the throttle Position sensor twice and am still having the same problem
What's that vacume line for? My 88 bronco 4.9 doesn't have a vacuum.
And by the way you have a special talent for talking and personality for the camera. Subscribed 👍
Frisbee golf nice 😎
Ahhh golf based frisbees
Hello Matt I have a 96 ford f150 the volts in it drop when I'm idling while it's in gear, when I put it into reverse the Volts drop and it stalls out. I have replaced the transmission filter which had fallen into the bottom of the pan hoping it would fix my problem and it still stalls out when the volts drop. I'm thinking it's the idel air sensor or the throttle body sensor what do you think might be going on?
I got same truck and mine want close all way it’s like a tiny gap in my flaps should I drill the hole bigger
What about the plunger just above the TPS. Have you ever thought about replacing the plunger that opens and closes the air flow in the throttle body intake? I took mine off and pressed the plunger. I could have blown on it to depress the plunger. I am hoping that the solenoid is working strong enough to push the plunger. Yeh I could have hooked up a 12v supply but thats just a PITA.
Metric conversion act is the reason for mixed sizes
Bud. Question if you have a second. When I start my 96 with a 5.8. It idles a little rough for like 10 seconds then jumps the rpm to 1500 and it stays there. If I unplug iac valve it idles pretty much ok and perfect. Small loap. Did a map sensor. Iac sensor. Cleaned computer. Replaced and fixed all vaccum leaks
Couple different things to try. Pinch or block off your vacuum tubes that run to the solenoids by your coil. I’ve had those leak internally just enough to cause weird problems like that. Is your white tube that connects the A/C recirculate valve connected and not leaking? It’s mounted on top of the hvac box on the passenger side - they are notorious for breaking down. If all that fails grab yourself a can of brake cleaner (make sure is the flammable type) and start hitting every sealant surface, injectors o-ring and logical spot you can. If you have a leak the brake clean will raise your rpm similar to giving it extra gas! Lemme know what you find
OK, now I'm more confused than ever. In all the F-150 forums, guys are claiming that changing the TPS eliminates the hard shift between First and Second gear in the E4OD automatic transmission. I'm not seeing how based on this video.
While that’s a possibility, it’s not the first thing I’d start with. Is it a hard shifting only between 1st and 2nd or are the other gears affected too? If it’s a TPS issues it USUALLY (not always) effects all shifts to some degree - although it’s harder to tell since 2/3 and 3/4 are softer. A much more common issue is the 1-2 accumulator spring failing. Let me link you a video about that.
@Myster47 here, check this out. czcams.com/video/ZV1J1XvCAxQ/video.html&ab_channel=Runsbetterthanitdid%2CGarage.
@Runs better than it did, Garage. Knows more about this issue then I do - I tagged him, so hopefully he pops up!
@@MatthewFinlay Yup, only between 1st and 2nd. I'm hopin' that it's not the 1-2 accumulator spring. I just changed out the engine and tranny oils and replaced both filters. I put some Lucas ATF "Conditioner" - not the "Fix" - in the ATF. If the 1-2 accumulator spring is just sticky then maybe that'll clean things out and let it function normally. I also put on a larger tranny pan that has a drain plug. It's the pan that normally goes on the 4x4 but fits okay on the RWD. Future transmission drains should be a lot easier than sucking it out of the fill tube. Taking down a transmission pan with only a quart of fluid in it is a lot easier and cleaner than trying to balance five or six quarts of ATF. I just bought this old truck. Apparently it came from Tennessee and made its' way all the way up to New York recently. The more I work on it the more I realize that it is a junkyard Frankenstein. Seems like it is a 1994 cab sitting on a 1992 frame. That threw me for awhile when I went to buy front calipers for it. In 1994, they had bolt on calipers. Before 1994 they had slide pins holding the calipers on. But all this is good for my 78 year old brain. It keeps me thinking and busy learning new things. I'm also learning about OBD ports. So now I've got an OBD I scan tool coming in for the F-150 and a better OBD II scan tool coming in for my 2007 Honda Odyssey. It'll be interesting to see if there are any scan codes in the F-150 memory. So far, there's no CEL lights on but someone may have just removed the bulbs. Hard to tell. But the OBD I scan tool should tell me what the voltage is on the TPS. If it's like 0.5V then I guess it's working okay.
@@MatthewFinlay I think I got lucky. The purpose of the 1-2 accumulator spring, I believe, is to soften the pressure as the tranny shifts from First to Second gear. As I drove around yesterday, I noticed a distinctly softer (but still firm) shift from 1-2. Also, previously shifting from 2-3 or higher was so soft that it was barely discernible. Now, they are distinct and firm. I think that can of Lucas Tranny Conditioner and the new ATF is cleaning out all those passageways and letting the transmission work normally. I'm thinking that if that 1-2 spring had been broken then there would be no improvement or change in that shift - but there is. Whew, that was a teeth-rattler for awhile. Now it's much better. The truck is a junkyard Frankenstein with a 1994 cab sitting on a 1992 frame. No telling how long it sat and clogged up the transmission. The rear differential oil was really black and runny.
Mathew. I'm in a bind!!! 97 f250 5.8 cranks. Won't start. Changed fuel pump . ICM. Fuel relay and fuse. Help me please
Hi Mat, I'm going to look at a 1989 Lincoln Mark Vll that has sat for the past few years. I believe it has the 225hp HO engine. The owner, who is a mechanic of sorts, says it runs rough and he can't figure it out. He said people have told him it could be a vacuum line under the intake manifold. I'm thinking that, and a dirty fuel system for the gas turning bad from sitting. Also, if that is a distributor engine rather than an electronic system, the timing could be way off due to it being loose. What do you and others here think it could be. What are the Usual Suspects?
Mine didn’t have a throttle body gasket when I pulled up off and I didn’t put one on when I reinstalled the throttle body💀 is it gonna explode
In your video, you drilled out one of the holes and I was curious as to why you would do this, what will drilling it out do, and is that something that HAS to be done?
So that you can adjust the position of the sensor..and that adjusts the the voltage being sent to the ECM..Sort of like adjusting the carb idle screw for the perfect idle speed.
I have a heritage version of the 95, with coolant running through the throttle body...
If I cap off the coolant to the throttle body, (nipple rusted off the top), will that interfere with the sensor working properly, once I complete the procedure you've shown us?
You’ll be fine - theres a couple different theories of why Ford had coolant running through the throttle body. Cold weather icing, help regulate incoming air temperature, etc. but you can block it off without any real issues in my experience!
Now that I installed it, my engine idles real low and sometimes stalls out
Did you adjust voltage or just just screw then down?? Also it’s really easy to forget plugging your IAC back in - been there, done that at least a few time.
My truck starts sometimes perfect and sometimes I have to floor the gas pedal to start, sounds like it sputters for gas ! Sometimes even shuts off. Eventually it stays on but high rpm's. Then goes back to normal. Think maybe changing these it could help
I replaced it on my 93 Crown Vic, and it ran better than ever. It was on the driver's side of throttle body. On my 04 Town car it is on the back between throttle body and fire wall so TB had to come off. The Vic had all kinds of running issues and someone could have told me the worst ones were transmission an before learning about tps would have believed them.
we have a 94 f150 conversion van. throttle seems to be sticking intermittently and revving super high causing panic on the snowy roads. Does this sound more like the throttle cable sticking or position sensor to you?
I have a 92 e150 conversion van, 5.8 and am experiencing the same issue. I don't think its the throttle cable sticking. To test this, I removed the air filter box and hoses going into the throttle body so I could observe the throttle plates and access to the throttle lever where the throttle cable connects. I started the motor, revved the motor until I got the idle to rev high (stick). While it stuck, I observed the throttle plate positions. They were completely closed visibly and also checked by trying to moving the throttle lever to the closed position which it didn't move because it was already there. So that led me to believe something else is controlling the rpms. I confirmed I have no vacuum leaks. I replaced the IAC with a new Motorcraft part but no change. Got a new Motorcraft TPS on order. I did run a ODB1 scan and got only 1 code 116 ( Engine coolant sensor circuit ,to high or to low). Going to check the sensor and swap that out as well. I'll you know which is the culprit.
@@chriskorbut9568 what’s the culprit?
Hey guys,
So got bit of an issue that I can’t seem to shake.
Got a 1991 f150 xlt lariat with the 4.9 L straight 6.
The issue I’m having is the RPMs sky rocket and hold at a measly 2500-3000 rpm’s and sometimes higher…..
To combat this I’ve had the IAC sensor unplugged and turned the idle screw up a bit to compensate.
Furthermore I’ve replaced the EGR valve and sensor and the MAP sensor. After replacing plugged the IAC back in turned the idle screw back down and the RPMs continue to shoot up and stay there.
I’ve checked for vacuum leaks, the previous owner said he did a smoke test and there were no leaks.
My thinking has veered to the TPS , not sure if that’s the smart direction but that’s where my thoughts are.
Any suggestions or thoughts would be great
Did you figure it out?? I’m having a similar problem and it’s driving me insane
Did this cause the vehicle to stall while driving? I’ve had an intermittent stalling issue. Sometimes it cranks right back up and sometimes it takes a few minutes to start back up.
Oh man those intermittent ones are hard to chase - it’s possible but they usually be throw a code for it because it’s a short to either power or ground on the signal sense. That’s also pretty rare in my experience but it’s a thing still. If the signal wire goes “open” they just run weird in my experience, aka if a wire was to break, loose connection or failing contact inside the TPS itself. Do you have any codes store in your computer for TPS? There are several related to overvoltage and undervoltage in there
I had a intermittent stalling issue on my e250 no codes it turned out to be the ignition control module.
So I put on a TPS and still got the issue. Basically new EGR, maf, TPS, the other cylinder thing on side of manifold, one new vacuum line etc. I do not have a check engine line on anymore but the truck sputters when in gear and gas. When I let off the gas the idle goes high but back on the gas dies out. The pressure gauge says the pump is putting out 35 psi rear tank (front tank is dead). I'll have to start the truck and look at the guage again. Oddly I'm having issue keeping the battery charged in (newer battery and checks good), the next thing coolant sensor under the throttle body then it dropping the fuel tanks. I guess it could be a bad TPS straight out of the box
Oxygen sensors.
I’m unfortunately having the same battery issue. (93 F-150 5.0 )
New battery as well.
New starter solenoid, and relay
New alternator.
My other truck problem is that voltages drop killing truck when headlight toggle is pulled out
Checked and regrinded all grounds in engine bay as well and the two inside cabin near foot areas …
I’ll keep digging for answers
Going to try TPS and see if that does it. Good luck
IAC sensor?
its running
Where does the throttle body hose that connects at the tps with a Y
I’ll have to go check where the connect. I think my top hose connects to a y in the heater line but the bottom one near the tps runs to the intake manifold.
I have an 1988 f 150 300 six / manual on floor shift. Truck runs great and idles great. The problem is when you are driving and let off the gas it surges badly. Replaced the IAC and TPS. Plugs , wiring cap and rotor replaced. Smoke tested, no leaks. Any help would be appreciated.
Figure it out?
No sold the problem.
Mathew, We both have the same Ford F150 even the same color. I apppericate your TPS replacemnet video. Do you have any videos on O2 sensor replacement for your truck? Thank you dude
Thanks buddy! I’m glad you’re here. Nope I already replace it actually - didn’t get a video of it. Do you have a inline 6, 5.0 or 5.8??
@@MatthewFinlay i actually got my O2 sensor replaced and my TPS replaced and I m still having delays in my throttle response. She is running better since replacing both sensor and TPS. Your thoughts?
Ohhh is it also “hanging”? Aka if you were to press the pedal up to 2000 rpm’s, hold it steady and then let off will it stay there for an oddly long time??
@@MatthewFinlay I got my TPS and o2 sensor replaced. My truck still has a delay when I press down on the gas.
but.. "i coulda been a contenda"..oh!..the humanity!
I have a 93 f350 and my rpms go to 0 when I’m not engaging the gas pedal. Do you have any clue where to start?
Idle air control valve is where I’d start! It bolts onto the side of the throttle body and allows extra air to flow when the the throttle is closed to control idle. It wouldn’t be the first time I’ve seen a truck with the holes in the throttle blades so dirty the close up and dead idle air control valve.
I put my tps on and didn’t drill out the holes. Have an inconsistent idle from about 699 to 850. Think it’s that I didn’t drill holes out or could it be something else?
Nope, in my experience drilling out the holes helps more with throttle response and less with idle rpm UNLESS it’s over 1 volt. Then stuff gets weird over 1v but blade closed - but I’ve never had a Motorcraft TPS that HAD to have the holes opened up. They’ll work fine outta the box. I would start with pulling codes, checking for vacuum leaks and with the Idle Air Control valve - they get carboned up/dirty/worn pretty easily in our trucks. If you wanna quick and simple test of the IAC, I’d have the truck warm and then locate the idle air control valve on the right side the throttle/intake manifold area. Unplug it - if the idle changes and the engine dies. Its probably working, but could be dirty because they usually are haha. If you unplug it and it basically idles the same you just found the problem.
@@MatthewFinlay that makes good since. In about our in that department. I appreciate ya buddy! Trouble shooting
Thanks buddy! I might not be the best ar this stuff but between all of us we can usually figure it out haha
@@MatthewFinlay yeah, we better figure it out. America is a snowball headed straight to hell. I was motivated by your comment. Thks captain
Mine plugged in at 0.88
Just left it ...
The ford engineers were on the pure stuff in the late 80s and 90s I swear
ha ha ha ha
Great video! Do you have one fixing the 212 code? I can't find the 22K resistor
My truck is a 95 5.0 like yours
Thanks big guy! And nope but I’ve seen some friends have to do that before. Hasn’t gone bad on any of our rigs yet
@@MatthewFinlay I've read that 212 messes with timing, 121 and 212 are the worst pair of codes to have
My truck runs like shit :( And I don't know how to fix it
New sub keep the great work 👋
@benjamincamarilloloza9012 thank you big guy! Does the problem follow when the engine is cold and warmed up?
Did you figure it out I have the same
@@benjamincamarilloloza9012
Nice vid, although I don't have this engine it still looks very similar to the 300 Inline-Six. I might try this out since my van keeps stalling in drive.
How do you exactly adjust voltage to the TPS? Do you make a bigger hole on the mounting holes to adjust (twist) the sensor while it's seated on the throttle body?
TPS or failed/failing Idle Air Control Valve would be my bets without evening having to open the hood haha. Exactly buddy, one hole is perfectly sized to the bolt while the other is slotted. Unfortunately the slot that Ford provides gives the pedal too much “dead” area in my opinion. That’s probably better for fuel economy or something but is meh to drive. I enlarged the hole to get it right up to .99 volts without going over - Price is Right style. But I’ve never had a Motorcraft TPS not test voltage correct by just taking it outta the box and slapping it on so clearly they are doing something right.
@@MatthewFinlay I see, it makes sense now. Thanks for the detailed response. You’re awesome bro.
Of course, hit me up on here or on Facebook and I’ll help the best I can if you run into a snag!
If you have to twist the TPS to get it to fit then it is on incorrectly. It should drop right into place with the 2 screw holes aligned perfectly. If you leave it in incorrectly then you will break the clock spring in the sensor the first time you step on the throttle. and open up a whole new set of problems. Remember the trans gets it's shift signals from the TPS
You know i have always wondered about this but i have a 91 Mustang, not a truck ,i was just reading about TPS sensors and ran into this video.
i have a AOD on my car, they are the last of the Mohicans when it comes to full mechanical trannys so no shift signals from the TPS, only thing electrical in them is the VSS sensor,anytime i try to just "drop in" a TPS on my throttle body,well thats just not gonna happen, has to be twisted.
In every video Ive seen and in the description for a new TPS sensor it also says it has to be twisted to fit ,what you said got me thinking but i think these throttle bodies on these trucks are much different from what i have even though the sensor is just alike,this is a copy and paste from a installation instructions.
When installing the new TPS keep in mind that the sensor is spring-loaded -
therefore, it must be installed counter clockwise to its lined up position then
rotate the sensor clockwise and install the two Phillips head screws.
When they say "rotate" i would assume that to mean twist?
This comment is to pick your brain if you dont mind,not disagreeing with you, i had had issue in the past from TPS sensors and i was wondering if i was doing something wrong? what do you think? i really appreciate your input.
I'm working on a 1995 f150, it has a random hard shift 1-2. Have you ran into that issue before on these?
Me personally no, but the accumulator spring in these guys is notorious for letting go. I hear different people say the valve body needs to come out and haven’t researched it myself. I’m more familiar with this similar issue on GM 4L60e trans that have a plastic piston and fail but it would basically cause similar problems.
@@MatthewFinlay Yeah, the previous owner said the same thing, he drove it ten years like this. From what I understand the valvebody does have to come out. I've already checked tps for deadspots, the timing and the rear axle vss and wiring. May try to replace the accumulator assembly with ford's updated part number.
Oh that makes sense and who know what kind of damage a broken spring inside the bore coulda cause over 10 years… I think you’re on the right track then. Or at least, that’s what I would start with!
@@MatthewFinlay Yeah I'm surprised too, he said it never bothered him untill it became more consistent. 😆 People are saying the updated spring is more rigid, who knows I guess I'm going to throw a few parts at it and hope something sticks.
“Throw a few a parts at it and see what sticks” is 110.6% going to make it into an upcoming video buddy! I love it
Man this video sucked so bad I had to subscribe 🤘
Bahahaha comment hall of fame, well done buddy
wish you were my math teacher...
Haha thanks buddy, jokes on us though - I’m terrible at math
How are you bench testing? How do I apply power to it while out the vehicle?
Couple different ways of doing it! I invested in an adjustable bench top power supply because I feel like I’m always needing it. The tps runs on 5v - the wire diagram is all over the internets, but almost all 3 wire sensors have the outer pins as power/ground and the center is your signal. If you don’t want to use a power supply you really have two options. Plug your harness into the tps and probe the center wire with your meter. But if you don’t wanna damage/poke you signal wire just jamb some scrap wire into the outer pins and then probe the center. I actually prefer either of these methods because the ford system isn’t always at 5v exactly. In my experience it’s a lil lower but since it’s all relative to the system it’s not a huge deal.
@@MatthewFinlay thanks
Of course buddy! Hit me up if you need anyhtign
@@MatthewFinlay A desktop computer power supply creates both 12 and 5 volts..that is what I am using ..plus a DVOM..
@@MatthewFinlay one more question. When calibrating, do I have to have the throttle linkage hooked up when setting to .9 volts? Throttle should be fully closed correct?
I also have a 93 E150 Club Wagon Van 5.8L. I've been having iddle issues and irregular idling were even after is warm,the idle stays high. I have it at mechanics and got egr valve code and something about not getting hot enough for her valve to open. I have a 160° thermostat on it and a 3 core all aluminium radiator so it runs cold.
I saw a video were the guy was having simular issues and change out a cat converter and 02 sensor that went bad and fixed the issue. What do you think..?
I have a 92 E150 Conversion Van, 5.8 with intermittent high idle sticking issues. I ran a ODB1 scan and got 1 code 116 (Engine coolant sensor circuit to high or to low). I noticed my temp gauge stays on the cold side so this may be messing the the ECU causing the high idle issues. I'm going to check engine coolant sensor and swap it out. Let you know if this fixes the issue.
I absolutely hate those ratchets that bend,lol,i welded mine at the shop i work at,guys i work with always tease me about it,lol
Too fast on the testing. What do you have the TPS plugged into and what did you select on your multimeter?
You can plug onto harness to see difference with key on probing wire...
^ This guy probes! I had it plugged into a bench power supply set to 5 volts but if you want to do it on the vehicle all you need to do is pierce the tps signal wire with your positive probe lead and then ground out the negative meter lead. I would recommend throwing a little bit of tape or RTV over where you pierced the wire and call it a day!
I wish you the show the part how to back probe the sensor. Mine is throwing the TPS sensor. Just wondering how to get to the .9 volts with installing thank you
Oh man I shoulda talked about that! Ok I hate cutting/piercing the wire on the new sensor. So I unplug the sensor from the harness and take small gauge wire and to Insert into the pins of the sensor side and harness side. Basically connecting them together - always do this with the key out/ignition off and I always try to not touch them together
Splice or pierce you TPS signal wire and ground out the other side of your meter and boom. You now have a temporary extension you can mess with
@@MatthewFinlay that's exactly what I was thinking of doing thank you cuz I see how tight the motorcraft sensor is and there's no way to back probe it thank you
Of course! Good luck buddy!
@@MatthewFinlay so basically just a jumper wire between them right with the sensor unplugged?
Thor's greatest superpower was a hammer buddy..and most likely a pry bar!..
I’m gonna use this haha, that’s awesome
@@MatthewFinlay i'm here all week!..please tip your bartenders and waitstaff..you are my awesome teacher,the least i could do is brighten your day a bit..lol..peace!
Also, probably a torch?
It can’t be tight if it’s a liquid!
And one thing that might help. Try finding an easier approach on the testing section for the less advanced audience 🤯🤣
Haha the less advanced audience AND producer
Does the tps need calibrated
Freaking hilarious bro. If people don't like it they need a zanex and relax life sucks so embrace the suck
Ironically my evap hose popped off where it meets the intake hose😂
Ha at least it was easy to find!
Where in gods name is the gruntle?
"kind of in the front but also in the back."
ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ok I know now
Definitely could do without all the smart ass dialog
Dad?! Is that you??? Oh man - so cool I found you here! Moms gonna be so excited!
Cut the comedy
No
Stop whining, Emily.
@@MatthewFinlay lmao
I liked the comedy if you don't take a Zanex and go to another channel
Don't cut the comedy. It's great. And your content was well presented. Looking forward to more videos.
55 was great