Hey, be careful pulling out those floors with the front glass still in. If the body twist at all it is a high possibility it will crack that glass. Also pulling out so much at one time, some door bars or just some bracing tacked in might be a safe option here. Great work as always and look forward to the updates, keep it coming.
@@RestorationForBeginners To that point on bracing, BisforBuild did a good job of showing how they braced their Z when they cut out the floors (and transmission tunnel and spare tire well, obviously more than you intend to). Should give you a decent visual representation on how to brace yours. czcams.com/video/_bMc3fyFUSk/video.html
stumbled on your channel by chance and love it. You have the balls to admit you don't have the skills or the tools but the hell with it, you're going to jump right in and just DO it! In life we can either sit back and watch someone else do it...or we can do it ourselves. You're doing it. Congrats. Can't wait to see how this Z series turns out.
glad to hear that, my rusty bucket could definitely use some stiffness. The amount of metal creaking that I heard driving with even with the l28 was astounding.
Perfect timing. I have my baddog floorpans and frame rails ready. Currently learning how to remove everything I need to in order to get the engine out to start cleanup. I’m learning everything as I go so knowing what actually is connected to an engine to then know how to remove it has been a challenge this week. Also practicing how to weld for when the time comes to install the floorpans and silvermine coilovers I have
Fitzee's, and Trev's Blog, is how I got started last summer (never welded etc before). 30 metal sections later, done with the rust repairs on my '73 Lancia.
I’m dealing with a lot of the same issues on my 280zx. Nearly always more rust than meets the eye. I found an aggressive knotted wire wheel to take the rubber matting off the floor pans pretty well. Keep up the quality work!
I'm thinking I'll just get this thing acid dipped after I finish this part. The amount of dust and debris caused by paint, undercoating, and rubber matting is insanity right now.
Your videos are great. I've really enjoyed watching them throughout the year. I recently picked up a 77 280z and got it running after it sat for 24 years. It's really running rough and backfires a little so I'm going to do some rust work until I get un-frustrated with the mechanical issues. Appreciate your sharing your journey with your 280z.
Hey man good to see ur still pluging away! Its probably worth putting some tube sections in the inside to the strut tower to firewall and back to the rear. Your cutting alot of structure below and want to minimise twisting! Btw need some more teasers of that rb!
Thanks for the suggestion, makes a ton of sense. Bro I wish I could give you some teasers on the RB. When I get this thing dropped off to get acid dipped/painted, I'll start working on the RB for sure.
@@RestorationForBeginners jheeez cant wait man!! Im getting an rb for my 260z but im sticking to NA power for the noise haha Check out apex engineered they have some chassis strengthening stuff which is cheap $95 for the firewall to strut towers in the wheel area or fab some up yourself
Hey bro are you set on acid dipping? I’ve heard a lot of horror stories about acid dripping out after you start driving the car around and ruining the paint. I have no personal experience just saying might be worth researching?
My 280Z Rust is even worse :( Definitely wish I had a garage and welder! It’s my dream car and I haven’t given up yet but oh boy, is the car structurally unsound. My frame rails peeled off the frame with a hole near battery tray measuring a foot in length and width 😳
Keep doing what you are doing. Everything you are assuming everyone wants to see and hear, is exactly what we want to hear. My dats it's even more rusty than yours. I needs it! Lol
@@RestorationForBeginners I didn't trust my welding skills at the time so someone else did it. For the frame rails he used a primer which can be welded through (makes welding a lot harder) on bottom side of the floor and inside of the frame rails and did button welds and stitch welds and used a sealer. I also used eastwood internal frame coating for extra protection. The seat brackets he took off completely then welded back on once the new floor was in. Everything was then coated with POR15. So far no problems but its only been a little over a year.
@@RestorationForBeginners Btw I would highly recommend removing your windshield and the rest of the glass or covering it from the inside before you weld inside the car. My windshield got a little damaged from the weld splatter
Glad to see new content, keep up the great work man. Just my .02 but I would recommend getting the car media blasted to 1. Save time and 2. It will Really show what you are working with. Just my opinion. I did it with mine and it helped alot, just threw the car in primer so it doesn't surface rust while I do patch work.
Great to see another video! You were quiet there for awhile. Its amazing that you are tackling the most daunting tasks with the issues of rust that we all dread. Hats off. I was really hoping to get to NC last month from the Middle East, but once again, the Wuhan virus has thwarted my plans for travel. Anyways, stay safe and keep up the good work. BTW, how's your finger doing?
It's doing a lot better!! It still looks a little bit wonky but you won't notice it unless you're looking for it. Functionally, 100%. Thanks for checking in!
Great work buddy! Glad to see another vid up. +1 for some bracing man, last thing you want is to weld everything up and find the chassis is bowed or twisted. It’s amazing you were driving around with chassis rails rotted out like that! I’m currently building a chassis jig for my 240z restoration to hold everything square when I come to do this work. Also you not a fan of spot weld cutters and drill bits? Especially with stuff like your seat rail supports, so you have a nice clean hole to plug weld weld back in, instead of the mess the belt sander leaves. Keep up the great work, looking forward to more.
It's a unibody car, so if you're not autocrossing it or running way above stock hp/torque, rest of the chassis braces it fine for the most part. But yes, this section is the biggest reason why I decided to do a frame-up restoration.
Haha I don't have money to spend on a new car right now, so I'm not even paying attention. I'm glad they're bringing it back though, let's just hope it's not another Supra situation... too expensive, too slow, and no manual.
@@RestorationForBeginners I also dot´t have the money, but I like the styling. It will be producet bei Nissan only and not like the Z4/Supra by Toyota and BMW. It should have a A 6 speed manual, V6 anc ca. 400Ps for ca. 45K to 50K. So we can just hope it will be good and in 5 years it should be at an good price or I should be in the right position in live.😉 If you have the time take a look at the prototyp: czcams.com/video/KNV-7pP_2cU/video.html
haha I know a lot of people like the classic music, but youtube doesn't provide enough variety of them free of licensing to keep things fresh. I'll probably go back to it later!
@Restoration for Beginners woow you really doing great 👍 👏 job I'm watching every single video 📹. Hey have my CZcams channel to. I'm just getting started, I have some clips You can see how fixed rust problems, If you have time check my job and let me know what you think
I just heard you mention you’re in North Carolina. What area? I’m a few stages ahead on a Camaro in huntersville. Get in touch via @streamlinecamaro on insty
"this is turning out to be a little more complicated than i thought.", said every hobbiest in the history of all hobbies.
Hey, be careful pulling out those floors with the front glass still in. If the body twist at all it is a high possibility it will crack that glass. Also pulling out so much at one time, some door bars or just some bracing tacked in might be a safe option here. Great work as always and look forward to the updates, keep it coming.
That's really good advice, thank you!
And when you weld you might splatter the glass with weld and this will cause rust to occur in the glass.
@@RestorationForBeginners To that point on bracing, BisforBuild did a good job of showing how they braced their Z when they cut out the floors (and transmission tunnel and spare tire well, obviously more than you intend to). Should give you a decent visual representation on how to brace yours.
czcams.com/video/_bMc3fyFUSk/video.html
stumbled on your channel by chance and love it. You have the balls to admit you don't have the skills or the tools but the hell with it, you're going to jump right in and just DO it! In life we can either sit back and watch someone else do it...or we can do it ourselves. You're doing it. Congrats. Can't wait to see how this Z series turns out.
I put new frame rails on my Z and it really helped out with the stiffness, feels like a huge upgrade
glad to hear that, my rusty bucket could definitely use some stiffness. The amount of metal creaking that I heard driving with even with the l28 was astounding.
Did you order them somewhere or just go to a shop?
Perfect timing. I have my baddog floorpans and frame rails ready. Currently learning how to remove everything I need to in order to get the engine out to start cleanup. I’m learning everything as I go so knowing what actually is connected to an engine to then know how to remove it has been a challenge this week. Also practicing how to weld for when the time comes to install the floorpans and silvermine coilovers I have
For patching and welding in sections there’s a CZcamsr “Fitzee’s Fabrications” that may be worthwhile to view ?
I'm aware of the channel. That dude makes everything look so easy, it's almost frustrating. But he's a master, definitely learning from him.
Fitzee's, and Trev's Blog, is how I got started last summer (never welded etc before). 30 metal sections later, done with the rust repairs on my '73 Lancia.
Finally, a new video! Keep it up!
More to come!
I’m dealing with a lot of the same issues on my 280zx. Nearly always more rust than meets the eye. I found an aggressive knotted wire wheel to take the rubber matting off the floor pans pretty well. Keep up the quality work!
I'm thinking I'll just get this thing acid dipped after I finish this part. The amount of dust and debris caused by paint, undercoating, and rubber matting is insanity right now.
Your videos are great. I've really enjoyed watching them throughout the year. I recently picked up a 77 280z and got it running after it sat for 24 years. It's really running rough and backfires a little so I'm going to do some rust work until I get un-frustrated with the mechanical issues. Appreciate your sharing your journey with your 280z.
Hey man good to see ur still pluging away! Its probably worth putting some tube sections in the inside to the strut tower to firewall and back to the rear. Your cutting alot of structure below and want to minimise twisting!
Btw need some more teasers of that rb!
Thanks for the suggestion, makes a ton of sense.
Bro I wish I could give you some teasers on the RB. When I get this thing dropped off to get acid dipped/painted, I'll start working on the RB for sure.
@@RestorationForBeginners jheeez cant wait man!! Im getting an rb for my 260z but im sticking to NA power for the noise haha
Check out apex engineered they have some chassis strengthening stuff which is cheap $95 for the firewall to strut towers in the wheel area or fab some up yourself
Hey bro are you set on acid dipping? I’ve heard a lot of horror stories about acid dripping out after you start driving the car around and ruining the paint. I have no personal experience just saying might be worth researching?
My 280Z Rust is even worse :( Definitely wish I had a garage and welder! It’s my dream car and I haven’t given up yet but oh boy, is the car structurally unsound. My frame rails peeled off the frame with a hole near battery tray measuring a foot in length and width 😳
Keep doing what you are doing. Everything you are assuming everyone wants to see and hear, is exactly what we want to hear. My dats it's even more rusty than yours. I needs it! Lol
Just bought a '77 280 that's honestly in even worst shape then yours. gonna be watching all your vids to see how you tackled the rust
This makes me so happy I didn't have rust in the battery tray area. My floors were 10 times worse than yours though. Keep up the work!
Did you replace the floors yourself? How did you deal with the frame rail and the seat brackets?
@@RestorationForBeginners I didn't trust my welding skills at the time so someone else did it. For the frame rails he used a primer which can be welded through (makes welding a lot harder) on bottom side of the floor and inside of the frame rails and did button welds and stitch welds and used a sealer. I also used eastwood internal frame coating for extra protection. The seat brackets he took off completely then welded back on once the new floor was in. Everything was then coated with POR15. So far no problems but its only been a little over a year.
@@RestorationForBeginners Btw I would highly recommend removing your windshield and the rest of the glass or covering it from the inside before you weld inside the car. My windshield got a little damaged from the weld splatter
all Z's are worth saving.
Your videos really are a joy to watch always exited to see a new video uploaded
Glad to see new content, keep up the great work man.
Just my .02 but I would recommend getting the car media blasted to 1. Save time and 2. It will Really show what you are working with. Just my opinion. I did it with mine and it helped alot, just threw the car in primer so it doesn't surface rust while I do patch work.
Yeah, you're 100% right. After this, I'm sending it off to get acid dipped and/or blasted.
Haha, good timing. I just got my 280z floor pans delivered about a week ago. It's gonna be a hell of a job
why dont you just buy a steel sheet and cut it by yourself? Wont it be easier in case of this car where you have to rebuild whole floor + frame parts?
@@szaka9395 It's basically just one of those "pay to have it done right" things. I can do a lot of things, but metal fabrication is not one of them
Great to see another video! You were quiet there for awhile. Its amazing that you are tackling the most daunting tasks with the issues of rust that we all dread. Hats off. I was really hoping to get to NC last month from the Middle East, but once again, the Wuhan virus has thwarted my plans for travel. Anyways, stay safe and keep up the good work. BTW, how's your finger doing?
It's doing a lot better!! It still looks a little bit wonky but you won't notice it unless you're looking for it. Functionally, 100%. Thanks for checking in!
Keep up the good work,,get ready to replace everything,,,,I'm getting nickle and dimed to death on my s30 I'm doing all the work also
Haha I'm doing as much as I can.
@@RestorationForBeginners in the end bro,,,it will be all worth it,,restoring a classic car and preserving it's history ,,,,,👍
If that much rust would have persuaded you from buying this car, you'd hate to see mine. Lol.
Great work buddy! Glad to see another vid up. +1 for some bracing man, last thing you want is to weld everything up and find the chassis is bowed or twisted. It’s amazing you were driving around with chassis rails rotted out like that! I’m currently building a chassis jig for my 240z restoration to hold everything square when I come to do this work. Also you not a fan of spot weld cutters and drill bits? Especially with stuff like your seat rail supports, so you have a nice clean hole to plug weld weld back in, instead of the mess the belt sander leaves. Keep up the great work, looking forward to more.
It's a unibody car, so if you're not autocrossing it or running way above stock hp/torque, rest of the chassis braces it fine for the most part. But yes, this section is the biggest reason why I decided to do a frame-up restoration.
YOU'RE BACK! :D
CO2 - carbon dioxide have -78 Celsius degrees when expanding. This is the same carbon dioxide as in welding cylinders or used in the food industry.
Funny..your car has the same exact rust as my 240z.my frame tales are good though.
เยี่ยมมากคับreally good
Who do you like the new Z that we should see next year?
Many pictures are out there.
Haha I don't have money to spend on a new car right now, so I'm not even paying attention. I'm glad they're bringing it back though, let's just hope it's not another Supra situation... too expensive, too slow, and no manual.
@@RestorationForBeginners I also dot´t have the money, but I like the styling.
It will be producet bei Nissan only and not like the Z4/Supra by Toyota and BMW. It should have a A 6 speed manual, V6 anc ca. 400Ps for ca. 45K to 50K.
So we can just hope it will be good and in 5 years it should be at an good price or I should be in the right position in live.😉
If you have the time take a look at the prototyp:
czcams.com/video/KNV-7pP_2cU/video.html
Is it faster to use a pneumatic belt sander vs a drill with the appropriate size drill bit. Too remove spot welds??
I just bought my 280zx and have to do rust restoration but I have 0 welding experience. Wish me luck
I will, I’m considering buying one very cheap. The only problem is bottom rust
DEDICATION !!!! I think you have aaaaalot of this .... HIGH FIVE
Mine needs the exact same job T_T
Lance, just do it.
JK, if you got money to spend, have someone do it for you. This is insanity.
@@RestorationForBeginners Would you buy this car again?
If you think yours is bad check out our 280z shell. Should make you feel alot better about yours 🤣
What happened to personal safety? You are cutting and grinding with rubber gloves on. Apart from that you are doing great and doing it right.
Dude, I'm honestly not sure what's safer. I thought wearing gloves was the way to go until a bunch of people told me to look up what degloving is.
Where did you buy your floor pans
Where do you buy replacement floor panels? good project greetings
Got mine from Zedd Findings. Will talk about how well they fit in a future episode very soon.
Whats the name of the tool and brand of tool you are using at 4:23? Love the videos Keep up the great work!
Harbor freight 8 inch belt sander. I have a video review on that tool, so be sure to check that out.
@@RestorationForBeginners Thank you! Ill definitely check it out.
Get 3M cubitron belts for it
Yay!
But what happened to Beethoven? Lol
haha I know a lot of people like the classic music, but youtube doesn't provide enough variety of them free of licensing to keep things fresh. I'll probably go back to it later!
@@RestorationForBeginners lol gotcha
👍🏻💪🏼
There's a lot of rust on your 240Z.
Ugh tell me about it.
@@RestorationForBeginners Yeah. It's a pain in the ass.
@Restoration for Beginners woow you really doing great 👍 👏 job
I'm watching every single video 📹.
Hey have my CZcams channel to. I'm just getting started, I have some clips
You can see how fixed rust problems,
If you have time check my job and let me know what you think
I just heard you mention you’re in North Carolina. What area? I’m a few stages ahead on a Camaro in huntersville. Get in touch via @streamlinecamaro on insty
Hang in there brother! Just think of when the car is compelling done! 👍
That's what gets me in the garage every weekend!