Great talking points, as an avid Datsun enthusiast and currently on my 4th S30 with motors ranging from L series to RBs I agree. I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from being an Datsun owner. Heck I'm always the one advocating for more people to pick them up as they are fantastic and iconic cars. Save all the Datsuns! There are so few of us in the Northeast I gladly drive far to help fellow Datsun guys. The reality now though is for the most part you can't get into one of these cars as a "cheap" project or daily/project anymore; at least not in the Northeast. California and some southern states can be an exception, as cars, parts and parts car availability are much more abundant than other parts of the US. On the whole though the cars/parts have gotten more rare and everything has gotten more expensive due to that and popularity. I've been in the Datsun game for over a decade and in the past 10 years prices have steadily climbed. More specifically in the last 5 years prices have skyrocketed. You're looking at a minimum of 5x to 10x or more pricing increases for the cars and parts. Funnily enough there was a spike in trending prices after Sung Kang did his S30 build because it introduced many people to the chassis that had not known it before. I bought my first rust free '78 280Z with a cammed L28, suspension mods, bbk and a whole bunch of other upgrades for $2500 over a decade ago. (I regret selling that car, I regret selling them all lol) You will be hard pressed to find the same deal, not saying it's impossible but the cars are rarer, more desirable and worth more than ever now. The insurance values themselves have gone way up. I will say the more people that rescue/restore, work on and drive them, the larger the community grows and the more aftermarket parts availability will follow. Much depends on what a person wants with their S30. Concourse restoration? Those are now $100k+ cars. Restomod? Depends on powerplant, horsepower and car goals. Track car? Street car with track duty? etc. I like to use the example of the RB swap in S30s. I'm on my second RB26 S30 swap, it's my favorite swap what can I say. (Not the fastest or easiest by far) It is an extremely commonly asked question on all of the Datsun boards/pages. Many people reply if you have to ask probably too much but if you had to put a number? It is easily a 13-20k just for the swap. Now most people roll their eyes at the number explaining it can't be that much etc but RB's in general have gotten very expensive. A RB26 motor is now around the $6k territory for just the motor, a RB25 transmission is around $2k, the modified oil pan is around $1k, around another $1k for all swap mounts, around another $1k for the engine harness. You are pretty much at $10k for all the very large and very necessary parts for the swap. Then come all the additional parts (intercooler/piping, driveshaft, radiator etc), small parts (fuel lines, fittings, gauges, wiring) and the "while you're at it itis" (upgraded RB oil pump, timing belt/waterpump change) that quickly add up and nickle and dime you to death. Don't forget now you've over doubled the cars horsepower but you're still on stock brakes, suspension and drivetrain. (While the R200 can handle the power your axels guaranteed won't) Before anyone says you can get parts cheaper and do all the work yourself! I'm not arguing you can't, not at all. Someone who is good at fabrication can make their own motor mounts, IC piping, brackets etc. While I'm not a fabricator, I've pretty much done my 2 RB26 S30's doing 90% of the work myself. I constantly hunt for deals, do all the labor myself and I'm still easily in the 5 figure range for my swaps. Simple fact RB's and parts, S30's and parts are all very expensive and doubly expensive when combined together. These things can apply for any project but add this on top of rust repair, expensive and hard to find replacement parts for the chassis, you have the recipe for a monster of a project. I went off on a tangent here but our guy Min is on point. That being said if you really are an enthusiast of these cars, don't have any illusions on the amount of work and money it will take, they are some of the most rewarding projects you can ever have. That and a great community make it a pretty special thing. Also nothing beats the first drive out with your project, I literally could not stop grinning from ear to ear. If anyone has any questions regarding the S30 chassis, swaps, L series, L28et, RB25/26 (a little knowledge of 1j/2j / LS) feel free to reach out. Happy to help in anyway I can or at the very least point you to the right resources. Remember, Do it in a Datsun! Cheers!
Yo, I just picked up a 260z rolling shell last month and honestly I have no idea where to start.a tiny bit of surface rust around the engine bay with no dents. Interior is totally stripped. Would like to eventually put a rb26 with cd009 transmission. Just looking for some direction so I can work on this car and some resources to do everything myself
@@braddarb924 take care of the rust first. I’m not an expert at all but I would sand it down to pare metal and put some type of primer paint over it to keep it from getting worse. Rust is a pain on any old car so always try to revert the process
Got some good news about the finger. No permanent tendon or nerve damage, just a lot of flesh trauma and full functionality will be restored after ~4 weeks. Probably will be missing a nail on the index though.
I think this is a good assessment. I agree with most of it. The key is finding the right candidate for restoration. Like you said a lot of these car have rust issues and what I’ve read it was mostly because of the way the metal was prepped during manufacturing. They had issues right away with rust issues on new 240z. They did better with 280z over 240. My biggest complaint with my restoration is part availability. Some can be extremely hard to find. I think they’re going to jump in price in the next decade as they become more rare. If you have space it’s a good idea to buy a junkyard donor car. The little pieces can be hard to replace.
@@RestorationForBeginners I think the JDM manufacturers missed a great opportunity to reproduce small runs of parts and body panels that could feed the ever growing resto market.
Yup! Bring the Z to stock then ramp up the suspension for the ride. After that you can play with transmission/diff gear swaps, cleaning and opening up the flow (intake, emmisions, exhaust) That is a solid starter plan for a body that doesn't have the rust issues that require tearing the engine out. It was always meant to be an enjoyable ride. Good luck going forward!
Bought a 77 280z about a year ago for $3k and I definitely bit off more than I could chew at first, I was coming from a 350z and decided to get something cooler but wanted to stay in the Z family because my 350 was so reliable and fun. Luckily my 280z is 99% rust free and I'm just a few months away from getting to drive it for the first time, I bought it with a questionable L28 that hadn't ran in a couple years so I decided just to pull the motor and swap an LS1 in there after my dreams of RB25 swapping went away when I saw how much it would be.. not to say that my LS swap was cheap in the slightest but I think over time it'll be easier on the pocket and more reliable. Also if you are a perfectionist beware about these cars, I ended up just saying I was going to swap the motor and now I've gotten all new suspension, brakes, mostly new interior, new wiring harness, and I'm close to getting paint and body work done and I'll be switching to all 240z bumpers like all 280z owners do to look cool.
Maybe I will share you're opinion soon. I purchased all 3 S30's 73' 75' 77' N42 on the 240z. 350 small block w/700R4 ont the 260z. 280Z a roller. Paid $1600 for all 3 just last week.
I mostly agree about the horsepower thing. My 240 has a high compression l28, bored, cam, long rod, flat top pistons, etc, making around 230 HP (crank) and it's a blast to drive. Not the fastest in a straight line but definitely not slow either. 300 hp NA is not that hard to do, you can buy a stroker crank from rebello. Sure, compared to a small block Chevy it's not cheap but compared to my friends vintage Mercedes and Porsches it's really cheap!
Very good and interesting information , coming from an owner of a 71 240z with 42k miles I agree in 90% of what you say too expensive to redo worth more for parts than as a whole in most cases
I agree with all the points in this video and your last one. I am about to embark on my 280z restomod projects. Your videos have been a great tool to have as I plan out my projects. Keep up the good work and I hope your finger gets back to 100%!
Some of the information in this video is slightly outdated as the parts market is increasing fast. When I say fast, I mean fast. So here is all the updated information. I'll address everything one by one. As well as some tips on what Z to buy 1. Rust of the unibody is becoming less and less of an issue everyday, when it comes to frame rails, floor pans and some body panels you can buy them new. So pretty much any areas of rust that where common on muscle cars of the day, have replacement parts. 2. Air-conditioning kits are now out, however as far as it comes to the small interior bits the market isn't that good. My advice, by as good of a condition car you can afford bro. The market for these parts is of course growing and has grown a substantial amount since this video, but you wanna get the best car regardless. 3. It can handle power fairly wheel, turbo kits have come out and you can get around 500hp or more from those. for maybe around $5k total. 300hp naturally aspirated comes in fairly expensive at the same cost of turbo charging to 500hp. Its a 40 year old car, even the muscle cars need suspension mods for all that power. Other than that the market is growing fast so here is the main concern you have if still interested. The body, make sure to buy a good body.
I agree, With Datsun's they take longer to restore then muscle cars from the 1980s, every Datsun Fairlady Z and truck that were for sale and had rust also a few problems. But I still love Datsun's and the 280ZX Turbo. Good luck on your Z build too.
I have 100 reasons why you should buy an early Z right away. If you can't fix rust, then you can wait for a 400Z coming soon. Rust are not for beginners I guess???
I honestly hope this 280z I’m looking at doesn’t have too much rust for the price. 😬, but it just looks like engine problems which is better than the body, + first car. Wish me luck. 😅
I owned a 260z, it was fun when it was running, but costly in the shop. It averaged $200 a month in shop fees in the mid '80's. I hated Toyota back then, since they were slow and boring. After I bought a small Toyota pickup, and it never broke down, I changed my opinion. I wish Toyota would have mass produced the 2000gt with their reliability. That truck went 330,000 miles with minimal work and cost. Batteries, tires, 3 alternators, 4 starters and 4 or 5 clutches. I ran it hard like a Z and it never failed.
If you're not opposed to replacement instead of restoration, might check out the hybridz forums. Lots of good info for suspension/brake/differential swaps.
rust,,rust,,,rust,,,but they are beginning to be very expensive if restored and done right,,,,,,,,not mention all the restoration parts are extremely expensive now
I purchased an one owner, 34K original mile, rust free stock 1972 240Z about 17 years ago and kept it on blocks for over a decade. I recently got around to refreshing it and it's just about done. There is no way I could to even attempt this feat today. Mint examples are just too expensive and restoring a project car in my price range would destroy my bank account. My hat's off to all those still willing to restore what surviving examples remain out there.
I brought a 260Z about 5 years ago, when I brought it, he had Weber carbs on it and tuned exhaust and he had aII new parts for it ! it had sat for 15 years in an airpIane hanger, just need a IittIe bit of body work ! I am in the process of redesigning it now
As far as #2 goes, Nissan used a lot of the same parts as other manufacturers of the 70s/80s. You might find an EFI part of a motor of some sort used on an 81 BMW that will fit on your Datsun.
Yeah, that's true. Bosch EFI systems were used on a variety of cars, but try looking for a original fuel rail or a pressure regulator or a carbon canister and you'll see what I mean.
658hp got a short nose diff for 370z t56 and 5.3 vortec twin turbo 15 psi 280z drive shafts and it runs great total build all together was 18k from junkyard condition to show car
Well if someone uses a L series engine it is kinda hard to get 300 hp or higher out of them unless it’s a l28. L28s are no problem getting 300hp especially with a turbo
I would like to point out that they do make turbo kits for datsuns. There's companies offering turbo manifolds and intake manifolds these days. Plus if you look you can find old turbo manifolds from the L28 turbos and piece it together. My first datsun I dropped an L28et from an 83 280zx into my 74 260z found an N42 intake shaved off all unnecessary ports. Pallnet fuel rail with fox body mustang 440cc injectors, tec2 engine management system, 240sx throttle body, I did buy used forged flat top pistons with valve cuts. Put a T3/T4 hybrid and once tuned I put 310ish to the wheels on 15psi. For the most part it was a junkyard motor with all junkyard parts. But for those who want over 300hp upgrade the differential and axels.
Number 2 is a really big thing, even in Japan it's difficult and it's even more difficult if you own 260/280z 2+2(S31) especially the interior parts are really tough to find
another issue with lots of HP is besides the brakes, but the unibody itself may not like the power, cracks and flexing may be an issue. The AC is not as bad as you think as long as you have an orig AC car. the only thing to go wrong is the compressore (easy) the condenser (also out there brand new aftermarket direct fit) and the evap (again direct fit AND has a conventional expansion valve). the only part that is really NLA would be the OE expansion valve. If that's gone you have to pop of the before mentioned replacement Evap. The price is high on those, 300+ the each part mentioned (evap and cond).
The good thing is its very very basic as far as AC systems go. MUCH easier to fix the old than try to adapt one of those universal fit types from what I see. Glad to help when you are ready. you still in NC? I maybe making a trip that way, would be fun to stop by and meet up. I am planning my east coast trip Don't know how far I will go, but could be as far as NOVA
I drive a 80 series land cruiser and any z is like a rocket in comparison. It’s all relative, just get an even slower second car and it will seem fast. 🤯
So, My Outrageous thought to put a Modified 8.4L V10 Dodge Viper Engine in a 280z Datsun is almost impossible? 🤦🏾 300hp wasn't even in my thought process.. My Original Desire was to put a 2010 BMW V10 M6 Motor in The Datsun BUT, it's been done already 🤷🏾 That Motor comes with 500hp.. Well, The guy that did it Swapped it out with a 2010 V10 M5 Motor which aren't too far apart tbh and both have the same Horsepower 🐎 Stock (500 or 507.. Last I checked it was 500 but Recently I saw the 2010 M5 had 507 so 🤷🏾) Even then, I wanted to Put a Supercharger on it 🤷🏾 I'm Not worried about the Money 💰 Issue.. If I get to a Point where I actually decided to start on a Project like this, Being that I'm a Big Saver when I'm able to, Money 💰 wouldn't be an issue so All I Need to know is that My Thought 💭 is in the Realm of Possibility and a Reliable one 💯🤷🏾 Being that there's already a Datsun/V10 BMW Swap, I feel like I need to switch it up so I started thinking about if the 8.4L V10 would fit in The Datsun 🤷🏾 The Viper has a WIDE Front, Much Bigger than the Datsun and even in The M5 Motor swap, they had to Customize the Datsun and Weld certain things making the engine bay space bigger to fit the Motor.. I feel like if you have the creativity to Build on your own instead of just relying on Car shops you can get Alot more done and your Range of Possibilities become Alot Greater 💯 Like, when you were speaking in the air condition parts, my first thought was figuring out what part was needed and building the Part myself 💯🤷🏾 Can't be that Hard right 🤦🏾 But yea.. That would be a Build of a Lifetime for me.. If I can get 1000whp out of it.. I'll be cool.. I was thinking CRAZY and thinking about getting around 2200whp (which is Basically Normal Now for the 8.4L V10) and I'm only saying 2200whp because I know the Power/Weight Ratio would put The Datsun up there with The Fastest of The Viper's and GT-R's running 3000-3300whp.. Ofcourse I understand building that Much Horsepower 🐎 and Building The Datsun up the to Par to Handle that kind of Power would mean basically Transforming The ENTIRE Car 💯 It'll just be the Frame that's The Datsun at that Point.. Recently I was watching Bad Boys 1 and Realized people didn't really appreciate the last car scene and Bad Boys did a good job putting The Porsche 911 up against The Shelby GT 💯 I was never big on older Model Car (Muscle cars).. I'm more of a European Muscle and JDM guy but as everyone else, Eleanor made me fall in Love and behind that Came the Datsun 280z and Now The Shelby GT is Growing on me.. But That's more Rare than The Datsun.. ONE Aspect of The Shelby GT that I would want to place on The Datsun is the Side Pipe that Runs alongside the Driver Door 💯 That look, Side Pipe alongside Wide Body Back with Racing Tires with My Brand written on The Tires, The Front end sitting a LITTLE BIT Lower than the Back, Modified Suspension, Tent, Metallic Black Rims with a Matte Dark Grey Paint Job, Custom Vented Hood OR No Hood at All 🤔!?? It would have to be Wide Body Given the Engine swap, Demon ring headlights, Roll cage and I got it to Run Reliably at 1,000whp (If I do I'd probably put a Parachute on it lol 🤦🏾).. That's what I'm Envisioning 💯🤷🏾 ANYTHING is Possible 💯🤞🏾 I know the Work would be RIDICULOUS.. But I think being that how Rare The Shelby GT is and How Rare it would be finding a 1967 GT500, The Datsun 280z would be the Best to go with.. On Top of that, The Same Guy who Built the Datsun with the BMW V10 M5 Motor Swap, ALSO Built Eleanor and was Sued by someone who was involved in The "Gone in 60 Seconds" Film 🎥 who had something to do with the creation of "Eleanor" and apparently it's "Illegal" to build a Replica Model of Eleanor and Promote it.. (Makes sense Now as to why I stopped seeing that guy with an Exact Replica of Eleanor but His was Much Nastier and Aggressive 💯 Beautiful Car 🤦🏾😏).. it's as if Eleanor doesn't even look right in any other color.. it Even looks funny without a Stripe lol So.. yea.. I'm Sure The GT500 would be the Easiest in terms of Building Power but, like I said, Just like The R34 GT-R, The 2JZ Toyota Supra and The Shelby GT, Hollywood made these cars ICONIC to the point certain ones are Worth Millions now and you Won't Find a 1999 (25 year old car) Toyota Supra for under 40k Now because of it and don't even think about the R34 GT-R.. Better off Buying an R35 at this point 🤷🏾 I've only seen ONE R34 and I later found out it was a GT-T instead of a GT-R and up until that point, I didn't know there was a different model of the R-34 🤦🏾 So.. yea.. I am SORRY for the Extremely long comment 🤦🏾 I'm just Passionate about Cars and I took an Adderall like 30 minutes ago and it has me "Lickady split ya herd" 💯🤦🏾 But yea.. Lord Willing I'm able to Enjoy this Life before I go back Home to Heaven, a Customized/HIGHLY Modified Datsun 280z is on My list 💯 If I am able to start the Project, I'll have the 150-200k to throw at it. Just a Dream.. a Thought that Hopefully I can Convert over into the Realm of Time and Space 💯 Appreciate The Video‼️💯 Hope All is Well 🤞🏾💯
I have a 77 280z that has a little rust spot in rear hatch channel; body has no dents or dings. With all the positives, I have decided to sell it. It's a project that I just don't have the energy to tackle. I bought this Z in 1977 so I know the history of this baby. It will make a great project for someone.
Yeah, I almost picked up a 2nd gen Mach 1 that was sitting in a barn in VA. Mustangs and some of the most common Jeeps are probably the most "beginner-friendly" restoration project cars.
Mach 1 is nice, I just like the smaller fastback. I had a coupe (non fast back) 1967 back in the late 1970's, it was a upstate NY car though, major rust. I was very young thin and did not have access to info like we have today. it was an AC car which would make it nice, and I think I could have handled the rust with all the tools and panels we have now. The 67 was the second gen, it had a 289 or 302 cant recall what they came with.
And Camaros. Trucks like the 80-96 Ford F-Series, Squarebody Chevy/GMC Full-size Trucks, 88-98 Chevy/GMC Full-size Trucks, Chevrolet S-10/GMC Sonoma, first gen Dodge Ram. Ford LTD Crown Victoria is also a good choice for restoration on a budget. Really anything American is easier to get parts except for Cadillacs, Buicks, Oldsmobiles, and Pontiac Bonneville with the 4.0 or 4.6 Northstar V8 and the 3.5 Shortstar V6 and the dreaded HT series and Oldsmobile Diesel engines. Japanese and European cars are not easy to find parts on for restoration except for certain 1990’s Honda Civic, Accord, Toyota Corolla, and Toyota Camry because they are still easy to get parts for them and they sold Millions of them in the USA.
My dad owns a 1981 Datsun 280ZX. It drives great. However, we're trying to find a part. I'll do my best to explain: it is a 1981 Datsun 280zx Headlight Wiper Combination Switch. His headlight dimmer switch is not working. I've been searching all of the Z part sites. Any assistance would be appreciated. My dad is older, so I'm trying to help. We tried Auto Zone with no luck.
Sorry but my mom had one when I was a kid growing up and listings are amazing to me I've always loved them almost half the people in my neighborhood had a 240 or 280 old-school Z and they're always beautiful so I wasn't trying to find one
I bought a 260z 2+2 back in 2008 before they became popular. It cost me 2k and was a complete car, even had the stock working radio and the light bulb under the hood. The thing was a rust bucket, The whole undercarriage had to be replaced. I ended up selling it for 3,300 USD in 2017 because I needed money for college tuition and I got tired of low ballers on craigslist. As soon as the guy drove away with it. Instantly regretted. Come to find out, it was worth more as a parts car than a complete car.
Just picked one up that's rust free and very clean. Having trouble with the fuel injection and no one in my area seems to know how the older system works. Any tips would be appreciated
Z forums and Facebook groups really help! I suggest joining a Z enthusiast group on Facebook- everyone is always super friendly and willing to help. Something about automotive Facebook groups- just the best people.
i found a 1983 280zx that is in pretty good condition everything is original except for the radiator and no rust that i could see and was wondering if someone can tell me if it was a good purchase for 9,000 (this would be my daily)
I daily in 1983ZX but I’ve replaced the radiator with a big three row radiator, replaced the fan with 2 electric SPAL fans, coil over conversion kit on the back and cut springs up front on some big 16in tires, K&N cold air intake, exhaust manifold off a L28e/t, aftermarket exhaust headers, and dual GReddy pipes out the back. It’s a five speed manual and Driving is literally the highlight of my day now!! Everywhere I go, people are breaking their necks looking! I haven’t driven it once without someone coming up to me asking “what year?” Or “man haven’t seen one of these in a long time!”. It’s cool because I’m only 25 and people my parents age come up to me and share stories about how they use to own a Z, which I thinks is pretty awesome! At the end of the day I love daily driving my 280 ZX because it’s a fun, reliable, (if you get a good one and take care of it) and it’s keeping the spirit of Datsun and the Z alive!
lol why is anything below 200hp written off as slow these days? either way I'm about to offer 400 quid for a rotting carcass of a 280zx that has had the rear exposed to British weather for decades .
*FOR ANYONE UNSURE ABOUT WHERE TO GET PARTS FOR YOUR Z:* Here's a list of all the Z parts websites that I know of, and will add more as I find them: www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/Classic zcardepot.com/ zcarsource.com/datsun-280z-parts www.zeddsaver.com/search?type=product&q=280Z vintagerubber.com/datsun-nissan/280-z/ www.datsun-garage.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z-s30-1969-1978 www.californiadatsun.com/tag/16.html?types[0]=1 whiteheadperformance.com/performance-parts/datsun-240z-260z-280z-parts/ Datsun Garage sells replacement floor pans, and they sell a weld-in patch for the battery tray area. They also sell replacement seat brackets. It's worth a look! Edit: Apparently the seat brackets are out of stock, but I'm sure you can find some online somewhere.
I'm quite familiar with what's available and what's not. And that's because every time I find rust that I need to actually fix on the car, I look up whether a replacement panel is available. And I'm more often than not disappointed. Firewall, the strip area around the hatch, radiator support, the rail that you hang fenders on, gas tank inlet area, frame next to the headlight buckets, I could keep going and going.
@@RestorationForBeginners I'm sure you know that knowing people and having a network of people who have access to some of the rarer parts is beneficial as well. It certainly has helped me with my Z build! Good luck, I'm looking forward to watching your future videos and seeing everything finished!
@@akuma_no_zetto Absolutely. Just being able to interact with other Z owners like yourself and getting their opinions on what I'm doing is really the biggest reason why I continue to upload. Thanks for the support I sincerely appreciate it.
@@RestorationForBeginners We Z owners need to help each other out, especially because of the reasons you have stated. These cars are both simple and complex at the same time, in different ways so having people to get opinions from really does help.
I’ve restored NUMEROUS Z’s and currently own a 260z with a BUILT v8 350_THIS guy is simply CLUELESS 🤣 what a JOKE…he needs to stick to FORTNITE 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣
Simple, A Z car is and will always be a resurrection investment. This is not considered a project restoration. These cars are severely weathered rust will always be an issue. Z cars are money pits especially if you don't have a career job. These cars are meant for people that have knowledge and money to make it happen. Millenials these days are trying to scoop these cars up just like the gay AE86. Truth is the car will not make you a better driver. That's based on your natural skill. This means to all you youngins go buy an fr-s or miata. You will end the Z's life with your antics. Let's save them now while we can and keep them away from kids who will trash them. This includes that AE86. I am a 280zx Owner and i will tell you that it has gotten expensive. I got lucky with a rust free 1 owner car. But all the bushings front to back are wasted. I have replaced all of them but it did hurt my pocket. The Z cars are now officially old as shit. Good luck to anyone trying to resurrect one it will be hard as shit. Including finding parts.
@@davewm9589 Haha honestly at this point it seems like everyone who has done some serious work on cars has a finger injury story. I feel like I joined a club.
Great talking points, as an avid Datsun enthusiast and currently on my 4th S30 with motors ranging from L series to RBs I agree.
I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from being an Datsun owner. Heck I'm always the one advocating for more people to pick them up as they are fantastic and iconic cars. Save all the Datsuns!
There are so few of us in the Northeast I gladly drive far to help fellow Datsun guys.
The reality now though is for the most part you can't get into one of these cars as a "cheap" project or daily/project anymore; at least not in the Northeast.
California and some southern states can be an exception, as cars, parts and parts car availability are much more abundant than other parts of the US.
On the whole though the cars/parts have gotten more rare and everything has gotten more expensive due to that and popularity.
I've been in the Datsun game for over a decade and in the past 10 years prices have steadily climbed. More specifically in the last 5 years prices have skyrocketed.
You're looking at a minimum of 5x to 10x or more pricing increases for the cars and parts. Funnily enough there was a spike in trending prices after Sung Kang did his S30 build because it introduced many people to the chassis that had not known it before.
I bought my first rust free '78 280Z with a cammed L28, suspension mods, bbk and a whole bunch of other upgrades for $2500 over a decade ago. (I regret selling that car, I regret selling them all lol)
You will be hard pressed to find the same deal, not saying it's impossible but the cars are rarer, more desirable and worth more than ever now. The insurance values themselves have gone way up.
I will say the more people that rescue/restore, work on and drive them, the larger the community grows and the more aftermarket parts availability will follow.
Much depends on what a person wants with their S30. Concourse restoration? Those are now $100k+ cars. Restomod? Depends on powerplant, horsepower and car goals. Track car? Street car with track duty? etc.
I like to use the example of the RB swap in S30s. I'm on my second RB26 S30 swap, it's my favorite swap what can I say. (Not the fastest or easiest by far)
It is an extremely commonly asked question on all of the Datsun boards/pages. Many people reply if you have to ask probably too much but if you had to put a number? It is easily a 13-20k just for the swap.
Now most people roll their eyes at the number explaining it can't be that much etc but RB's in general have gotten very expensive.
A RB26 motor is now around the $6k territory for just the motor, a RB25 transmission is around $2k, the modified oil pan is around $1k, around another $1k for all swap mounts, around another $1k for the engine harness.
You are pretty much at $10k for all the very large and very necessary parts for the swap.
Then come all the additional parts (intercooler/piping, driveshaft, radiator etc), small parts (fuel lines, fittings, gauges, wiring) and the "while you're at it itis" (upgraded RB oil pump, timing belt/waterpump change) that quickly add up and nickle and dime you to death.
Don't forget now you've over doubled the cars horsepower but you're still on stock brakes, suspension and drivetrain. (While the R200 can handle the power your axels guaranteed won't)
Before anyone says you can get parts cheaper and do all the work yourself!
I'm not arguing you can't, not at all. Someone who is good at fabrication can make their own motor mounts, IC piping, brackets etc.
While I'm not a fabricator, I've pretty much done my 2 RB26 S30's doing 90% of the work myself.
I constantly hunt for deals, do all the labor myself and I'm still easily in the 5 figure range for my swaps. Simple fact RB's and parts, S30's and parts are all very expensive and doubly expensive when combined together.
These things can apply for any project but add this on top of rust repair, expensive and hard to find replacement parts for the chassis, you have the recipe for a monster of a project. I went off on a tangent here but our guy Min is on point.
That being said if you really are an enthusiast of these cars, don't have any illusions on the amount of work and money it will take, they are some of the most rewarding projects you can ever have. That and a great community make it a pretty special thing.
Also nothing beats the first drive out with your project, I literally could not stop grinning from ear to ear.
If anyone has any questions regarding the S30 chassis, swaps, L series, L28et, RB25/26 (a little knowledge of 1j/2j / LS) feel free to reach out. Happy to help in anyway I can or at the very least point you to the right resources.
Remember,
Do it in a Datsun!
Cheers!
longest comment ever
Yo, I just picked up a 260z rolling shell last month and honestly I have no idea where to start.a tiny bit of surface rust around the engine bay with no dents. Interior is totally stripped. Would like to eventually put a rb26 with cd009 transmission. Just looking for some direction so I can work on this car and some resources to do everything myself
@@braddarb924 take care of the rust first. I’m not an expert at all but I would sand it down to pare metal and put some type of primer paint over it to keep it from getting worse. Rust is a pain on any old car so always try to revert the process
Got some good news about the finger. No permanent tendon or nerve damage, just a lot of flesh trauma and full functionality will be restored after ~4 weeks. Probably will be missing a nail on the index though.
Nice trick! I’m still gonna buy every since one! 😂
what
Good on you for making this review. The Z is a tricky car to restore.
I think this is a good assessment. I agree with most of it. The key is finding the right candidate for restoration. Like you said a lot of these car have rust issues and what I’ve read it was mostly because of the way the metal was prepped during manufacturing. They had issues right away with rust issues on new 240z. They did better with 280z over 240. My biggest complaint with my restoration is part availability. Some can be extremely hard to find. I think they’re going to jump in price in the next decade as they become more rare. If you have space it’s a good idea to buy a junkyard donor car. The little pieces can be hard to replace.
Absolutely. If I had the space, I'd buy another Z to make one good stock restored car, and make another one totally off the rails modded.
@@RestorationForBeginners I think the JDM manufacturers missed a great opportunity to reproduce small runs of parts and body panels that could feed the ever growing resto market.
Yup! Bring the Z to stock then ramp up the suspension for the ride. After that you can play with transmission/diff gear swaps, cleaning and opening up the flow (intake, emmisions, exhaust) That is a solid starter plan for a body that doesn't have the rust issues that require tearing the engine out. It was always meant to be an enjoyable ride. Good luck going forward!
Bought a 77 280z about a year ago for $3k and I definitely bit off more than I could chew at first, I was coming from a 350z and decided to get something cooler but wanted to stay in the Z family because my 350 was so reliable and fun. Luckily my 280z is 99% rust free and I'm just a few months away from getting to drive it for the first time, I bought it with a questionable L28 that hadn't ran in a couple years so I decided just to pull the motor and swap an LS1 in there after my dreams of RB25 swapping went away when I saw how much it would be.. not to say that my LS swap was cheap in the slightest but I think over time it'll be easier on the pocket and more reliable. Also if you are a perfectionist beware about these cars, I ended up just saying I was going to swap the motor and now I've gotten all new suspension, brakes, mostly new interior, new wiring harness, and I'm close to getting paint and body work done and I'll be switching to all 240z bumpers like all 280z owners do to look cool.
Maybe I will share you're opinion soon. I purchased all 3 S30's 73' 75' 77' N42 on the 240z. 350 small block w/700R4 ont the 260z. 280Z a roller. Paid $1600 for all 3 just last week.
I mostly agree about the horsepower thing. My 240 has a high compression l28, bored, cam, long rod, flat top pistons, etc, making around 230 HP (crank) and it's a blast to drive. Not the fastest in a straight line but definitely not slow either. 300 hp NA is not that hard to do, you can buy a stroker crank from rebello. Sure, compared to a small block Chevy it's not cheap but compared to my friends vintage Mercedes and Porsches it's really cheap!
Very good and interesting information , coming from an owner of a 71 240z with 42k miles I agree in 90% of what you say too expensive to redo worth more for parts than as a whole in most cases
I agree with all the points in this video and your last one. I am about to embark on my 280z restomod projects. Your videos have been a great tool to have as I plan out my projects. Keep up the good work and I hope your finger gets back to 100%!
I'm restomodding a rusted out Volga 24 and it's even worse, i'll have to make all the sheetmetal myself.
But it'll be allright.
Some of the information in this video is slightly outdated as the parts market is increasing fast. When I say fast, I mean fast. So here is all the updated information. I'll address everything one by one. As well as some tips on what Z to buy
1. Rust of the unibody is becoming less and less of an issue everyday, when it comes to frame rails, floor pans and some body panels you can buy them new. So pretty much any areas of rust that where common on muscle cars of the day, have replacement parts.
2. Air-conditioning kits are now out, however as far as it comes to the small interior bits the market isn't that good. My advice, by as good of a condition car you can afford bro. The market for these parts is of course growing and has grown a substantial amount since this video, but you wanna get the best car regardless.
3. It can handle power fairly wheel, turbo kits have come out and you can get around 500hp or more from those. for maybe around $5k total. 300hp naturally aspirated comes in fairly expensive at the same cost of turbo charging to 500hp. Its a 40 year old car, even the muscle cars need suspension mods for all that power.
Other than that the market is growing fast so here is the main concern you have if still interested. The body, make sure to buy a good body.
Ya, I gave up on my 1974 240Z do to major rust issues. Still was the best car I have owned
I agree, With Datsun's they take longer to restore then muscle cars from the 1980s, every Datsun Fairlady Z and truck that were for sale and had rust also a few problems. But I still love Datsun's and the 280ZX Turbo. Good luck on your Z build too.
I have 100 reasons why you should buy an early Z right away. If you can't fix rust, then you can wait for a 400Z coming soon. Rust are not for beginners I guess???
400z looks sick did you see it?😍
Hahahaha THAX
Z-specialties in Seattle Wa. Is a good place for parts.
I honestly hope this 280z I’m looking at doesn’t have too much rust for the price. 😬, but it just looks like engine problems which is better than the body, + first car. Wish me luck. 😅
Good luck did u buy it and how is the rust?
I owned a 260z, it was fun when it was running, but costly in the shop. It averaged $200 a month in shop fees in the mid '80's. I hated Toyota back then, since they were slow and boring. After I bought a small Toyota pickup, and it never broke down, I changed my opinion. I wish Toyota would have mass produced the 2000gt with their reliability. That truck went 330,000 miles with minimal work and cost. Batteries, tires, 3 alternators, 4 starters and 4 or 5 clutches. I ran it hard like a Z and it never failed.
If you're not opposed to replacement instead of restoration, might check out the hybridz forums. Lots of good info for suspension/brake/differential swaps.
rust,,rust,,,rust,,,but they are beginning to be very expensive if restored and done right,,,,,,,,not mention all the restoration parts are extremely expensive now
I purchased an one owner, 34K original mile, rust free stock 1972 240Z about 17 years ago and kept it on blocks for over a decade. I recently got around to refreshing it and it's just about done. There is no way I could to even attempt this feat today. Mint examples are just too expensive and restoring a project car in my price range would destroy my bank account. My hat's off to all those still willing to restore what surviving examples remain out there.
Good Video, Im still glad i got my 78 280z. I have a lot of work cut out for me. lol
Yup, that makes two of us, best of luck with yours!
I brought a 260Z about 5 years ago, when I brought it, he had Weber carbs on it and tuned exhaust and he had aII new parts for it ! it had sat for 15 years in an airpIane hanger, just need a IittIe bit of body work ! I am in the process of redesigning it now
I put a holley390 4barrel on my 260. That made it run great
Luckily my z only has some surface rust now it does need new interior and repainted but it's worth it
As far as #2 goes, Nissan used a lot of the same parts as other manufacturers of the 70s/80s. You might find an EFI part of a motor of some sort used on an 81 BMW that will fit on your Datsun.
Yeah, that's true. Bosch EFI systems were used on a variety of cars, but try looking for a original fuel rail or a pressure regulator or a carbon canister and you'll see what I mean.
658hp got a short nose diff for 370z t56 and 5.3 vortec twin turbo 15 psi 280z drive shafts and it runs great total build all together was 18k from junkyard condition to show car
Well if someone uses a L series engine it is kinda hard to get 300 hp or higher out of them unless it’s a l28. L28s are no problem getting 300hp especially with a turbo
I would like to point out that they do make turbo kits for datsuns. There's companies offering turbo manifolds and intake manifolds these days. Plus if you look you can find old turbo manifolds from the L28 turbos and piece it together. My first datsun I dropped an L28et from an 83 280zx into my 74 260z found an N42 intake shaved off all unnecessary ports. Pallnet fuel rail with fox body mustang 440cc injectors, tec2 engine management system, 240sx throttle body, I did buy used forged flat top pistons with valve cuts. Put a T3/T4 hybrid and once tuned I put 310ish to the wheels on 15psi. For the most part it was a junkyard motor with all junkyard parts. But for those who want over 300hp upgrade the differential and axels.
Number 2 is a really big thing, even in Japan it's difficult and it's even more difficult if you own 260/280z 2+2(S31) especially the interior parts are really tough to find
Great honest vid
You make good points, might piss some people off but you're right man.
Hey man good stuff and well though out.
I have a 280zx turbo. The computer is not talking to the fuel pump any ideas?
another issue with lots of HP is besides the brakes, but the unibody itself may not like the power, cracks and flexing may be an issue. The AC is not as bad as you think as long as you have an orig AC car. the only thing to go wrong is the compressore (easy) the condenser (also out there brand new aftermarket direct fit) and the evap (again direct fit AND has a conventional expansion valve). the only part that is really NLA would be the OE expansion valve. If that's gone you have to pop of the before mentioned replacement Evap. The price is high on those, 300+ the each part mentioned (evap and cond).
When I try to get the AC system back in the car, I'll have to give you a call. That might be two years from now though.
The good thing is its very very basic as far as AC systems go. MUCH easier to fix the old than try to adapt one of those universal fit types from what I see. Glad to help when you are ready. you still in NC? I maybe making a trip that way, would be fun to stop by and meet up. I am planning my east coast trip Don't know how far I will go, but could be as far as NOVA
Yup, near Raleigh. Let me know! Are you planning on driving your 280Z up?
Oh yes its the only way I roll! long term plan is Alaska up the alcan highway
I drive a 80 series land cruiser and any z is like a rocket in comparison. It’s all relative, just get an even slower second car and it will seem fast. 🤯
So, My Outrageous thought to put a Modified 8.4L V10 Dodge Viper Engine in a 280z Datsun is almost impossible? 🤦🏾 300hp wasn't even in my thought process.. My Original Desire was to put a 2010 BMW V10 M6 Motor in The Datsun BUT, it's been done already 🤷🏾 That Motor comes with 500hp.. Well, The guy that did it Swapped it out with a 2010 V10 M5 Motor which aren't too far apart tbh and both have the same Horsepower 🐎 Stock (500 or 507.. Last I checked it was 500 but Recently I saw the 2010 M5 had 507 so 🤷🏾) Even then, I wanted to Put a Supercharger on it 🤷🏾 I'm Not worried about the Money 💰 Issue.. If I get to a Point where I actually decided to start on a Project like this, Being that I'm a Big Saver when I'm able to, Money 💰 wouldn't be an issue so All I Need to know is that My Thought 💭 is in the Realm of Possibility and a Reliable one 💯🤷🏾 Being that there's already a Datsun/V10 BMW Swap, I feel like I need to switch it up so I started thinking about if the 8.4L V10 would fit in The Datsun 🤷🏾 The Viper has a WIDE Front, Much Bigger than the Datsun and even in The M5 Motor swap, they had to Customize the Datsun and Weld certain things making the engine bay space bigger to fit the Motor.. I feel like if you have the creativity to Build on your own instead of just relying on Car shops you can get Alot more done and your Range of Possibilities become Alot Greater 💯 Like, when you were speaking in the air condition parts, my first thought was figuring out what part was needed and building the Part myself 💯🤷🏾 Can't be that Hard right 🤦🏾 But yea.. That would be a Build of a Lifetime for me.. If I can get 1000whp out of it.. I'll be cool.. I was thinking CRAZY and thinking about getting around 2200whp (which is Basically Normal Now for the 8.4L V10) and I'm only saying 2200whp because I know the Power/Weight Ratio would put The Datsun up there with The Fastest of The Viper's and GT-R's running 3000-3300whp.. Ofcourse I understand building that Much Horsepower 🐎 and Building The Datsun up the to Par to Handle that kind of Power would mean basically Transforming The ENTIRE Car 💯 It'll just be the Frame that's The Datsun at that Point.. Recently I was watching Bad Boys 1 and Realized people didn't really appreciate the last car scene and Bad Boys did a good job putting The Porsche 911 up against The Shelby GT 💯 I was never big on older Model Car (Muscle cars).. I'm more of a European Muscle and JDM guy but as everyone else, Eleanor made me fall in Love and behind that Came the Datsun 280z and Now The Shelby GT is Growing on me.. But That's more Rare than The Datsun.. ONE Aspect of The Shelby GT that I would want to place on The Datsun is the Side Pipe that Runs alongside the Driver Door 💯 That look, Side Pipe alongside Wide Body Back with Racing Tires with My Brand written on The Tires, The Front end sitting a LITTLE BIT Lower than the Back, Modified Suspension, Tent, Metallic Black Rims with a Matte Dark Grey Paint Job, Custom Vented Hood OR No Hood at All 🤔!?? It would have to be Wide Body Given the Engine swap, Demon ring headlights, Roll cage and I got it to Run Reliably at 1,000whp (If I do I'd probably put a Parachute on it lol 🤦🏾).. That's what I'm Envisioning 💯🤷🏾 ANYTHING is Possible 💯🤞🏾 I know the Work would be RIDICULOUS.. But I think being that how Rare The Shelby GT is and How Rare it would be finding a 1967 GT500, The Datsun 280z would be the Best to go with.. On Top of that, The Same Guy who Built the Datsun with the BMW V10 M5 Motor Swap, ALSO Built Eleanor and was Sued by someone who was involved in The "Gone in 60 Seconds" Film 🎥 who had something to do with the creation of "Eleanor" and apparently it's "Illegal" to build a Replica Model of Eleanor and Promote it.. (Makes sense Now as to why I stopped seeing that guy with an Exact Replica of Eleanor but His was Much Nastier and Aggressive 💯 Beautiful Car 🤦🏾😏).. it's as if Eleanor doesn't even look right in any other color.. it Even looks funny without a Stripe lol So.. yea.. I'm Sure The GT500 would be the Easiest in terms of Building Power but, like I said, Just like The R34 GT-R, The 2JZ Toyota Supra and The Shelby GT, Hollywood made these cars ICONIC to the point certain ones are Worth Millions now and you Won't Find a 1999 (25 year old car) Toyota Supra for under 40k Now because of it and don't even think about the R34 GT-R.. Better off Buying an R35 at this point 🤷🏾 I've only seen ONE R34 and I later found out it was a GT-T instead of a GT-R and up until that point, I didn't know there was a different model of the R-34 🤦🏾 So.. yea..
I am SORRY for the Extremely long comment 🤦🏾 I'm just Passionate about Cars and I took an Adderall like 30 minutes ago and it has me "Lickady split ya herd" 💯🤦🏾 But yea.. Lord Willing I'm able to Enjoy this Life before I go back Home to Heaven, a Customized/HIGHLY Modified Datsun 280z is on My list 💯 If I am able to start the Project, I'll have the 150-200k to throw at it. Just a Dream.. a Thought that Hopefully I can Convert over into the Realm of Time and Space 💯
Appreciate The Video‼️💯 Hope All is Well 🤞🏾💯
Great video..... you gave me lots to think about. Thanks.
I have a 77 280z that has a little rust spot in rear hatch channel; body has no dents or dings. With all the positives, I have decided to sell it. It's a project that I just don't have the energy to tackle. I bought this Z in 1977 so I know the history of this baby. It will make a great project for someone.
Tony J sounds like a good addition to my collection
I'm sure you can fetch a pretty penny for a one owner Z!
ah and totally agree, Mustang is prob the best to own if you want to be able to support well. I really really like the 65/66 fast backs.
Yeah, I almost picked up a 2nd gen Mach 1 that was sitting in a barn in VA. Mustangs and some of the most common Jeeps are probably the most "beginner-friendly" restoration project cars.
Mach 1 is nice, I just like the smaller fastback. I had a coupe (non fast back) 1967 back in the late 1970's, it was a upstate NY car though, major rust. I was very young thin and did not have access to info like we have today. it was an AC car which would make it nice, and I think I could have handled the rust with all the tools and panels we have now. The 67 was the second gen, it had a 289 or 302 cant recall what they came with.
And Camaros. Trucks like the 80-96 Ford F-Series, Squarebody Chevy/GMC Full-size Trucks, 88-98 Chevy/GMC Full-size Trucks, Chevrolet S-10/GMC Sonoma, first gen Dodge Ram. Ford LTD Crown Victoria is also a good choice for restoration on a budget. Really anything American is easier to get parts except for Cadillacs, Buicks, Oldsmobiles, and Pontiac Bonneville with the 4.0 or 4.6 Northstar V8 and the 3.5 Shortstar V6 and the dreaded HT series and Oldsmobile Diesel engines. Japanese and European cars are not easy to find parts on for restoration except for certain 1990’s Honda Civic, Accord, Toyota Corolla, and Toyota Camry because they are still easy to get parts for them and they sold Millions of them in the USA.
I was about to become the unfriendly Canadian because of the video but said u liked the car
you know what you are talking about, thanks
My first car… I thought it was wicked cool. Then the roof separated from the windshield one night…
i like the video in video style good work
My dad owns a 1981 Datsun 280ZX. It drives great. However, we're trying to find a part. I'll do my best to explain: it is a 1981 Datsun 280zx Headlight Wiper Combination Switch. His headlight dimmer switch is not working. I've been searching all of the Z part sites. Any assistance would be appreciated. My dad is older, so I'm trying to help. We tried Auto Zone with no luck.
Sorry but my mom had one when I was a kid growing up and listings are amazing to me I've always loved them almost half the people in my neighborhood had a 240 or 280 old-school Z and they're always beautiful so I wasn't trying to find one
well guys were gonna have to get really creative with the 240z
hope your finger gets better soon so you can get back to work on the Z
Thank you James!
I bought a 260z 2+2 back in 2008 before they became popular. It cost me 2k and was a complete car, even had the stock working radio and the light bulb under the hood. The thing was a rust bucket, The whole undercarriage had to be replaced. I ended up selling it for 3,300 USD in 2017 because I needed money for college tuition and I got tired of low ballers on craigslist. As soon as the guy drove away with it. Instantly regretted. Come to find out, it was worth more as a parts car than a complete car.
If you do a resto mod with no care for the original parts. Go for it
Hey, is there an interior unlock for the rear hatch. If so where could I find it?
Just picked one up that's rust free and very clean. Having trouble with the fuel injection and no one in my area seems to know how the older system works. Any tips would be appreciated
Where are you? I can give you a hand
Z forums and Facebook groups really help! I suggest joining a Z enthusiast group on Facebook- everyone is always super friendly and willing to help. Something about automotive Facebook groups- just the best people.
7:12 need Wangan Midnight Z's additional welds
I LOVE THE ZZZZZZZZZ...I DON'T CARE ABOUT ORIGINALITY..I JUST LOVE THE INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR STYLING..
Get a GM, Ford, Dodge pickup truck for first project car. Cheap, easy to get parts, easy upgrade and easy to work on.
He's right. Once you separate a Corvette from it's frame it is easier to repair rust.
LOL especially since the only real metal on a corvette is the frame
Rush buckets be prepared to fix - and I didn’t even complete the video - because I already know 🙌🙌🤟ttt24
i found a 1983 280zx that is in pretty good condition everything is original except for the radiator and no rust that i could see and was wondering if someone can tell me if it was a good purchase for 9,000 (this would be my daily)
NO... don’t daily a datsun. they simply can’t handle being a daily anymore. i daily a 280zx and it’s not fun
I daily in 1983ZX but I’ve replaced the radiator with a big three row radiator, replaced the fan with 2 electric SPAL fans, coil over conversion kit on the back and cut springs up front on some big 16in tires, K&N cold air intake, exhaust manifold off a L28e/t, aftermarket exhaust headers, and dual GReddy pipes out the back. It’s a five speed manual and Driving is literally the highlight of my day now!! Everywhere I go, people are breaking their necks looking! I haven’t driven it once without someone coming up to me asking “what year?” Or “man haven’t seen one of these in a long time!”. It’s cool because I’m only 25 and people my parents age come up to me and share stories about how they use to own a Z, which I thinks is pretty awesome! At the end of the day I love daily driving my 280 ZX because it’s a fun, reliable, (if you get a good one and take care of it) and it’s keeping the spirit of Datsun and the Z alive!
lol why is anything below 200hp written off as slow these days? either way I'm about to offer 400 quid for a rotting carcass of a 280zx that has had the rear exposed to British weather for decades .
A Datsun is a Japanese Muscle and rebuilding any car ain’t easy so suck it up buttercup
Wangan midnight gang
DO NOT SELL WAS BE CRUSHED
*FOR ANYONE UNSURE ABOUT WHERE TO GET PARTS FOR YOUR Z:*
Here's a list of all the Z parts websites that I know of, and will add more as I find them:
www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/Classic
zcardepot.com/
zcarsource.com/datsun-280z-parts
www.zeddsaver.com/search?type=product&q=280Z
vintagerubber.com/datsun-nissan/280-z/
www.datsun-garage.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z-s30-1969-1978
www.californiadatsun.com/tag/16.html?types[0]=1
whiteheadperformance.com/performance-parts/datsun-240z-260z-280z-parts/
Datsun Garage sells replacement floor pans, and they sell a weld-in patch for the battery tray area. They also sell replacement seat brackets. It's worth a look!
Edit: Apparently the seat brackets are out of stock, but I'm sure you can find some online somewhere.
I'm quite familiar with what's available and what's not. And that's because every time I find rust that I need to actually fix on the car, I look up whether a replacement panel is available. And I'm more often than not disappointed. Firewall, the strip area around the hatch, radiator support, the rail that you hang fenders on, gas tank inlet area, frame next to the headlight buckets, I could keep going and going.
@@RestorationForBeginners I'm sure you know that knowing people and having a network of people who have access to some of the rarer parts is beneficial as well. It certainly has helped me with my Z build! Good luck, I'm looking forward to watching your future videos and seeing everything finished!
@@akuma_no_zetto Absolutely. Just being able to interact with other Z owners like yourself and getting their opinions on what I'm doing is really the biggest reason why I continue to upload. Thanks for the support I sincerely appreciate it.
@@RestorationForBeginners We Z owners need to help each other out, especially because of the reasons you have stated. These cars are both simple and complex at the same time, in different ways so having people to get opinions from really does help.
I OWN ONE
Couldn't be more happy with my $650 1980 Datsun 280zx
Someone had to say it
Too late
What the hell happened to your finger? Ouch.
You know that a muscle car is more expensiver than this very cool datsun 240 z? 😑 And its my dreams car😑😑😑😑
Well it depends on the muscle car I guess. Your household names (mustang, camaro, chevelle, challanger, etc.), in popular years? Definitely.
3 reason why , we do not care.
Too late !
I’ve restored NUMEROUS Z’s and currently own a 260z with a BUILT v8 350_THIS guy is simply CLUELESS 🤣 what a JOKE…he needs to stick to FORTNITE 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣
*loads gun* silence unholy one
Simple, A Z car is and will always be a resurrection investment. This is not considered a project restoration. These cars are severely weathered rust will always be an issue. Z cars are money pits especially if you don't have a career job. These cars are meant for people that have knowledge and money to make it happen. Millenials these days are trying to scoop these cars up just like the gay AE86. Truth is the car will not make you a better driver. That's based on your natural skill. This means to all you youngins go buy an fr-s or miata. You will end the Z's life with your antics. Let's save them now while we can and keep them away from kids who will trash them. This includes that AE86. I am a 280zx Owner and i will tell you that it has gotten expensive. I got lucky with a rust free 1 owner car. But all the bushings front to back are wasted. I have replaced all of them but it did hurt my pocket. The Z cars are now officially old as shit. Good luck to anyone trying to resurrect one it will be hard as shit. Including finding parts.
pain meds wearing off?
Just stopped taking them to avoid any complications, just popping advil every 6 hours or so.
glad for now nerve damage, I put a drill bit thru the base of my left hand index finger, years ago, still tingles...
@@davewm9589 Haha honestly at this point it seems like everyone who has done some serious work on cars has a finger injury story. I feel like I joined a club.