Nice video, buddy. Very thorough. I've owned 5 of these cars and they all have these same issues. Battery tray area too. These cars were built for the US market and I don't think the Japanese really thought about what kind of climates these would be exposed to. The unibody construction didn't have the long term protection that it needed to survive the rust. But we have to do what we need to in order to save these cars and keep them on the road. Thanks!
Finally a z that has a similar amount of rust to mine. I see all these pepole pulling there whole car apart for less than 1/10th of the rust I have. I'm just planning on patching floors and rails and having fun with the car , trying to make pretty where I can. Seems like most people think its trash. It's a shame how some rust can scare people so bad. Gotta live with it arround here.
Seems like a lot of people want a project until they realize it's a PROJECT. lol. You summed up my thoughts about it perfectly, it will never be a show car but it just needs to be safe and presentable. There is also a satisfaction to effectively saving something that would have otherwise been destroyed or parted out
@@PracticallyStock that last part especially! Mine sat in the brush for 21 years rotting away and the previous owner still wanted $1000 for it even though he hadn't even looked at it in years. I couldn't take it just rotting away there I knew she had some life left lol. Thankfully I was able to get it for $500.
That's a better deal than I got, $1000 is what I gave for mine but it was drivable, broke a week almost to the hour after I bought it lol. From what I am getting rid of (trans, motor, misc stuff) I think I might be able to make that 1000 back which would be sick since the 350 and T56 has about 1500 in it
I had an 83 ZX I bought in 1995. Only 12 years old and it had no floor pans, almost no battery tray and half the hatch floor was gone. I only paid $600 bucks for it though. It was a fun car.
As someone already mentioned, the fact that people thought the frame rails were okay to place a jack under was part of their demise. Datsun was very clear you had to use the scissor jack placed just behind the front wheel or just in front of the rear wheel. These areas have a little notch in the metal where you place the head of the jack. You're right though, the sheet metal was too thin, but all Japanese imports were like that back then. These are cool cars nonetheless, so thanks for sharing. I can tell you worked hard on this and it's at least solid, regardless of how your welds look.
My confusion with it came from the fact that those spots on the frame rails are "strong" enough to support the car with jackstands so I assumed it was the place to jack the car up as well. Thanks for the info. I'm hoping the lightweight metal pays off in the fuel economy and driving experience
@@PracticallyStock well, having owned two 280ZX I can tell you those cars when stock are gas hogs, especially when considering how slow they were. Again, I loved both of the ones I had, but the drivetrain needs some mods to make it a respectable performer. I recall reading somewhere that one of the original test review called this specific model, "an over decorated boulevard cruiser with barely enough power to get out of its own way." Ouch 😅
Yeah for the brief time this one ran I was not impressed and once the distributor failed I realized the car needed much of the efi components replaced. I'm surprised to hear that little 2.8 doesn't do good on gas. I couldn't justify the cost (plus difficulty getting parts) to power ratio, so the current plan is a mild 350 and 6 speed manual. That motor should give it the get-up-and-go and the double overdrive will hopefully help it get decent highway mileage
I also have a 79 280zx in this color. Not sure if it was repainted because my interior color is the original blue. But the rust was horrible in the exact same spots . Now im trying to start on the frame rails because they are non existent lol
I dont know if this red is a nissan color but can't wait till it's gone, Seems the red is the third color that the car has been and every layer has peeled off making it red, gold, and brown yuck. I feel a lot better after getting the frame rails/floor done, that was what really had me worried. Hopefully this summer I can get the car in primer
Also, it really seems like you know what you're doing here. Any advice for me, as far as getting into the world of welding? I am planning to do a project 280zx and I know I will have to face the rust repair issues. So, I've never welded or done body work, I was thinking of taking a shop class, or just getting a beginners kit of some kind. Is it too late for me to start? Can't wait to see what you'll do next on the Z. Keep 'em running!
Well this was my first attempt at working with sheet metal and it was a challenge. Taking a class certainly wouldn't hurt but the one I took did not go over sheet metal or flux core. I practiced on a piece I cut out of the car and that helped get the settings right. You can't get the metal too hot or it burns through so I was sometimes doing 1/4 inch and cooling it with compressed air then going again. Using cardboard to make templates worked good and tack all sides of a patch to keep it from warping when its welded in. Making sure the weld and ground surfaces are clean also helps. You may have to drop the fuel lines since they run under the floor. It's a lot of patience and practice and there are a lot of good videos and resources on different techniques. Biggest recommendation is be in a ventilated area, always have safety glasses on even with a welding helmet on, and be mindful of potential fire hazards. I always checked on the garage periodically after welding to make sure everything was still good
@@PracticallyStock Wow. Thank you for taking the time on this reply. Lots of info and hints that can surely help me out. But seriously your welds look pretty good. Nothing sloppy. This makes me feel pretty good myself. I hope I can start on this and get some experience on it. Can't stand having to take things to another shop to have them welded. Anyways, great stuff. We'll catch up on the next video. Cheers
As a side note someone reminded me of, NEVER use carb/brake clean (unless is says non-chlorinated on the front) to clean metal before welding as it can make chlorine gas
That and the windshield was my first thought but I could not get them to leak and it seems even the cars without T tops rust like this one. If water was getting into the car it would still seem there is an issue with the rust proofing of the seams since that was where most of the rust originated
I have a 280zx and I need to work on rust. I probably got myself in more than I thought I would, and my frame rails are pretty bad. Do you have any immediate suggestions with how I should go about repair? I don't have gaping holes like yours, but it is still pretty bad. Should I invest in the tools to weld and give it a shot myself? You did a great job for a first time.
Well if it makes you fell any better I definitely got in over my head when I bought this piece. If you plan on future projects that require a welder it wouldn't hurt to grab a cheap welder and learn how to weld. My biggest recommendation for that would be to do a fair bit of research because there are a lot of little things to know and tricks of the trade like using compressed air to cool the weld to save time (don't use water), welding only a little bit at a time to keep from burning through (at points I was doing 1/2in then cooling), and wire speed vs voltage. Most important thing is to be safe; ALWAYS wear safety glasses even with a welding helmet one, have good ventilation (welding under the car I had to use a fan to blow fumes away from me), don't electrocute yourself (always have machine off for trimming or changing wire), and be mindful of fire hazards with a way to put a fire out and give several minutes after welding before leaving the work space to make sure there isn't an unknown fire going. Beyond that it was a just patience and practicing on scrap pieces to get the settings and my technique good enough. And given that it's a structural member of the car you want to make sure the to be welded surfaces are clean (don't use carb cleaner it makes chlorine gas) and that the patch is welded in solid so the welds won't crack. Cut the patch where the welded seam is longer as this will spread the stress. Just take your time with it so you hopefully won't have to ever do it again and enjoy it since that is what this is all supposed to be about. Sorry that's a lot of info but it's hard trying to decide what it critical to share and what isn't, let me know if I can help further
Well I'd be lying if I said I had a real plan, I will have to do some research and ask around but I think I will have to cut out that piece and try and fit a thin gauge patch in its place. Hopefully the whole inside of the roof/pillars is not all rusted. That will likely be the last part I try to fix so I will have the rest of the car to practice on
No need to get upset, I called it a jacking point because I figured if it was strong enough to be the safety jack position then it likely doubled as a jacking point. Through working on the car I have learned they are quite delicate and not built as robust as a domestic. Officially, no they are not jacking points but only safety jack points. Regardless, they are not that strong and unless you have a really wide safety jack the rail will get bent up which is why I made my patches from 16gague and added bracing so I can use whatever is available to support the car
Nice video, buddy. Very thorough. I've owned 5 of these cars and they all have these same issues. Battery tray area too.
These cars were built for the US market and I don't think the Japanese really thought about what kind of climates these would be exposed to. The unibody construction didn't have the long term protection that it needed to survive the rust. But we have to do what we need to in order to save these cars and keep them on the road. Thanks!
I have a long way to go before I can learn how to do this stuff but it's really cool to see there's people out there who still keep these cars alive.
Thanks, Trying to keep it alive lol
Finally a z that has a similar amount of rust to mine. I see all these pepole pulling there whole car apart for less than 1/10th of the rust I have. I'm just planning on patching floors and rails and having fun with the car , trying to make pretty where I can. Seems like most people think its trash. It's a shame how some rust can scare people so bad. Gotta live with it arround here.
Seems like a lot of people want a project until they realize it's a PROJECT. lol. You summed up my thoughts about it perfectly, it will never be a show car but it just needs to be safe and presentable. There is also a satisfaction to effectively saving something that would have otherwise been destroyed or parted out
@@PracticallyStock that last part especially! Mine sat in the brush for 21 years rotting away and the previous owner still wanted $1000 for it even though he hadn't even looked at it in years. I couldn't take it just rotting away there I knew she had some life left lol. Thankfully I was able to get it for $500.
That's a better deal than I got, $1000 is what I gave for mine but it was drivable, broke a week almost to the hour after I bought it lol. From what I am getting rid of (trans, motor, misc stuff) I think I might be able to make that 1000 back which would be sick since the 350 and T56 has about 1500 in it
I had an 83 ZX I bought in 1995. Only 12 years old and it had no floor pans, almost no battery tray and half the hatch floor was gone. I only paid $600 bucks for it though. It was a fun car.
Crazy how these cars rust, at least they are fun
As someone already mentioned, the fact that people thought the frame rails were okay to place a jack under was part of their demise. Datsun was very clear you had to use the scissor jack placed just behind the front wheel or just in front of the rear wheel. These areas have a little notch in the metal where you place the head of the jack.
You're right though, the sheet metal was too thin, but all Japanese imports were like that back then. These are cool cars nonetheless, so thanks for sharing. I can tell you worked hard on this and it's at least solid, regardless of how your welds look.
My confusion with it came from the fact that those spots on the frame rails are "strong" enough to support the car with jackstands so I assumed it was the place to jack the car up as well. Thanks for the info. I'm hoping the lightweight metal pays off in the fuel economy and driving experience
@@PracticallyStock well, having owned two 280ZX I can tell you those cars when stock are gas hogs, especially when considering how slow they were. Again, I loved both of the ones I had, but the drivetrain needs some mods to make it a respectable performer.
I recall reading somewhere that one of the original test review called this specific model, "an over decorated boulevard cruiser with barely enough power to get out of its own way." Ouch 😅
Yeah for the brief time this one ran I was not impressed and once the distributor failed I realized the car needed much of the efi components replaced. I'm surprised to hear that little 2.8 doesn't do good on gas. I couldn't justify the cost (plus difficulty getting parts) to power ratio, so the current plan is a mild 350 and 6 speed manual. That motor should give it the get-up-and-go and the double overdrive will hopefully help it get decent highway mileage
This is about what mine is like glad to see it’s all repairable
dude my 280zx had the same issues as this one. nice work
Thanks! 👍
I also have a 79 280zx in this color. Not sure if it was repainted because my interior color is the original blue. But the rust was horrible in the exact same spots . Now im trying to start on the frame rails because they are non existent lol
I dont know if this red is a nissan color but can't wait till it's gone, Seems the red is the third color that the car has been and every layer has peeled off making it red, gold, and brown yuck. I feel a lot better after getting the frame rails/floor done, that was what really had me worried. Hopefully this summer I can get the car in primer
Mine is almost as bad as this. Almost 😉Great to see what is possible. Congrats.
Thanks! Figured I didn't have much else to lose other than time
Also, it really seems like you know what you're doing here. Any advice for me, as far as getting into the world of welding?
I am planning to do a project 280zx and I know I will have to face the rust repair issues. So, I've never welded or done body work, I was thinking of taking a shop class, or just getting a beginners kit of some kind. Is it too late for me to start?
Can't wait to see what you'll do next on the Z. Keep 'em running!
Well this was my first attempt at working with sheet metal and it was a challenge. Taking a class certainly wouldn't hurt but the one I took did not go over sheet metal or flux core. I practiced on a piece I cut out of the car and that helped get the settings right. You can't get the metal too hot or it burns through so I was sometimes doing 1/4 inch and cooling it with compressed air then going again. Using cardboard to make templates worked good and tack all sides of a patch to keep it from warping when its welded in. Making sure the weld and ground surfaces are clean also helps. You may have to drop the fuel lines since they run under the floor. It's a lot of patience and practice and there are a lot of good videos and resources on different techniques. Biggest recommendation is be in a ventilated area, always have safety glasses on even with a welding helmet on, and be mindful of potential fire hazards. I always checked on the garage periodically after welding to make sure everything was still good
@@PracticallyStock Wow. Thank you for taking the time on this reply. Lots of info and hints that can surely help me out. But seriously your welds look pretty good. Nothing sloppy. This makes me feel pretty good myself. I hope I can start on this and get some experience on it. Can't stand having to take things to another shop to have them welded. Anyways, great stuff. We'll catch up on the next video. Cheers
For sure, let me know how your project goes!
As a side note someone reminded me of, NEVER use carb/brake clean (unless is says non-chlorinated on the front) to clean metal before welding as it can make chlorine gas
Probably the T-tops leaked and allowed water into the cabin.
That and the windshield was my first thought but I could not get them to leak and it seems even the cars without T tops rust like this one. If water was getting into the car it would still seem there is an issue with the rust proofing of the seams since that was where most of the rust originated
I have a 280zx and I need to work on rust. I probably got myself in more than I thought I would, and my frame rails are pretty bad. Do you have any immediate suggestions with how I should go about repair? I don't have gaping holes like yours, but it is still pretty bad. Should I invest in the tools to weld and give it a shot myself? You did a great job for a first time.
Well if it makes you fell any better I definitely got in over my head when I bought this piece. If you plan on future projects that require a welder it wouldn't hurt to grab a cheap welder and learn how to weld. My biggest recommendation for that would be to do a fair bit of research because there are a lot of little things to know and tricks of the trade like using compressed air to cool the weld to save time (don't use water), welding only a little bit at a time to keep from burning through (at points I was doing 1/2in then cooling), and wire speed vs voltage. Most important thing is to be safe; ALWAYS wear safety glasses even with a welding helmet one, have good ventilation (welding under the car I had to use a fan to blow fumes away from me), don't electrocute yourself (always have machine off for trimming or changing wire), and be mindful of fire hazards with a way to put a fire out and give several minutes after welding before leaving the work space to make sure there isn't an unknown fire going. Beyond that it was a just patience and practicing on scrap pieces to get the settings and my technique good enough. And given that it's a structural member of the car you want to make sure the to be welded surfaces are clean (don't use carb cleaner it makes chlorine gas) and that the patch is welded in solid so the welds won't crack. Cut the patch where the welded seam is longer as this will spread the stress. Just take your time with it so you hopefully won't have to ever do it again and enjoy it since that is what this is all supposed to be about. Sorry that's a lot of info but it's hard trying to decide what it critical to share and what isn't, let me know if I can help further
Hey boss! What's your plans for the rust behind the windshield?
Well I'd be lying if I said I had a real plan, I will have to do some research and ask around but I think I will have to cut out that piece and try and fit a thin gauge patch in its place. Hopefully the whole inside of the roof/pillars is not all rusted. That will likely be the last part I try to fix so I will have the rest of the car to practice on
@@PracticallyStock well keep us posted please! Really glad you are documenting this save. These are becoming more rare by the day. 🤙
For sure, won't really get to mess with it till summer but I intend to document everything
Great video bro
Thanks
Car still on one peice?
Not really. Check out the playlist for the most recent update on the car, it has the motor and transmission mocked up in it
At 3:42 time frame in to the video, just a heads up: IT IS NOT A JACKING POINT. You people got to get your sheat together and do some research.
No need to get upset, I called it a jacking point because I figured if it was strong enough to be the safety jack position then it likely doubled as a jacking point. Through working on the car I have learned they are quite delicate and not built as robust as a domestic. Officially, no they are not jacking points but only safety jack points. Regardless, they are not that strong and unless you have a really wide safety jack the rail will get bent up which is why I made my patches from 16gague and added bracing so I can use whatever is available to support the car
Ssssssshhhh.