Video

Crazy how these cars rust, at least they are fun

If it's not coincidence maybe the oil had too many miles on it or was diluted with gas?

@@PracticallyStock she was burning oil over time. No biggy

That's a good idea

Kinda where this one is at, but I bet it still has a long life the way it is

You should be able to get the specific manual for your car here www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php

here is a link: www.amazon.com/MyParts-AC-Condenser-Compatible-52456127/dp/B097PYG9BG That listing says the number you listed is compatible with the one I listed but I don't know what the different is between the two. Make sure it has the correct style of tubes as I mentioned in the video because the number you have may be for the OEM condenser

I think this is what I used, if you have a different system then parts and quantities may change. Double check you have the same compressor since I think there are 2 that look like mine. I think I looked at the total system oil capacity and used that for the R134 oil but again double check that since it's been a year since I did the work. - 8oz of PAG 150 compressor oil - Universal set of green AC o-rings. The new lines should have most of what will be needed. - New flexible AC lines. (I used Rock auto) - New Accumulator (I used Rock auto) - New orifice tube. The ones I saw were recommended for both r12 and r134 (I used Rock auto) - New low pressure switch (Whatever one Advance Auto had) - Kit with conversion fittings (the car already had them installed but most parts stores or Amazon should have them) - Compressor o-ring kit (Santech MT2119 through Orielly's) - Condenser (MyParts PA-4823653 through Amazon) - I think mine took (3) 12oz cans but don't remember for certain, I charged it until the pressures were correct for the ambient temperature. Hope that helps, Thanks

Hopefully the rust isn't too bad, my 280 (not the anniversary one) had rust front to back

R 12 expension valve replace with r 134 valve

This system uses an orifice tube instead of an expansion valve, the orifice tube had the same part number for both refrigerants. Ideally you would want to change to the correct one for the refrigerant if one is available

Ok sir thank you 😊

You may want to check and see how the compressor is lubricated. If it's lubricated by mixing oil into the refrigerant, the old R12 oil likely won't atomize into the R134 and can cause compressor damage

For sure, working AC is definitely worth having

Thanks!

Definitely a possibility. Thanks! Glad you like the video

Thanks! The 3D printer definitely opens some doors

I am not sure where it came from. You can search for one by the hose inner diameter you are using. I am not sure this is a good fix but theoretically I think it works. The check valve just needs to hold up to the temperature, normally close itself, and open with minimal pressure. Best of luck and hope it goes back together smooth

It wasn't mine, the guy who inherited it wanted to see if it would run. Not sure what happened to it after he took it back

I haven't heard of that happening, seems like it would be a liability issue to design it that way

@@PracticallyStock thank you

The issue in this case is the pump is doing all it can but it's not enough for whatever excessive tolerance is in the motor

It's off in greener pastures

I refuse to believe a mass airflow sensor can cause the transmission to lose 2nd and 4th. What logic is there behind a mass airflow sensor causing the transmission to lose 2 gears? More to the point, I show in detail what happened and the truck fixed. The problem was not the mass air flow sensor, the band used by 2nd and 4th came unclipped

Sorry, forgot to reply earlier. I did some reading and the MAF can apparently cause some transmission issues by giving a false engine load reading to the computer which causes incorrect line pressure. On some vehicles it will put it into limp mode which may have been what you were talking about, I don't believe this ECM will do that though because it also has a MAP sensor to reference

Like yeah right. 😆

I read the turbo400 yokes both ways, either they "fit worse than a worn out factory yoke" or they "are the same" so I got frustrated and gave up on that idea. I can't find anyone else who's done it, but I suspect the 4x4 yoke is the same splines as the ZF and the TH400. The yoke I used has 240K on it and has sat around for several years so I suspect it just had some crud build up in it. With how hard it was to cut, I imagine that little file cleaned rather than removed material. It currently has no detectable play side to side or rotationally (unlike the factory one that is completely thrashed) but I will keep an eye on it. If I get access to a TH400 I will do a comparison

Hopefully the clutch will be good. I was not able to use the factory slave cylinder for reasons shown in a future video. I built the system from alternative parts and the clutch is a little heavy, but it can exceed the upper bound of the throw listed on ZF doc. That video will likely be out 2 weeks from now if you want to take a look, I'd appreciate any input

I literally show how the TPS was the problem. The entire video is showing how the TPS was the problem with the car and I even show the car fixed at the end. A vacuum leak was not the problem

Not really. Check out the playlist for the most recent update on the car, it has the motor and transmission mocked up in it

Thanks for following the project and sorry yours did not work out. The added performance gained from the V8 was more of convenience. The L28 made me hate that car because I could not get good new parts for the engine management system. I even tried to figure out a points distributor and carburetor for it but failed at that as well. Not being able to get new good parts to fix the management system made me lose hope in the car doing what I wanted it to. Whether it happens or not, my dream for the car is to drive it daily and on trips like its factory purpose. The lack of part support for the drivetrain made that into a huge risk/worry for me because I don't want to get stranded with minimal chance of finding parts. The parts issue is one that I expect to get worse as these cars get older and I don't have any intent of selling it. That was what motivated me to get rid of the L28, so I went with something I was familiar with that I will hopefully have no issues keeping on the road. When I realized the L28 was not going to work for me, I tried but couldn't get rid of the car. So I am doing my best to make it "my own" and meet my goals since I am stuck with it. For me the effort will be worth it because it should be a dream car in the end and the massive effort has been good because I need something to throw freetime at and I get satisfaction from learning new skills and solving problems. Both of which this project has been plentiful in. Anyways, that was how I ended up here. Sorry if I didn't see your email, If I did reply to it it was too long ago to remember without context

@@PracticallyStock all good! I'm still following the build and subscribed. I asked you about POR15 and how well it worked for you, you did reply pretty fast too

Good deal, at this point I'm a little disappointed with the POR. It does not stick as good as I expected it to and if you chip it, you can peel pieces off by hand. I may have to do the safety jack points in something more resilient but hopefully the rest keeps the rust from coming back

How do you figure? I've done this to 3 of my vehicles (the oldest repair being the one from the video) and only one of them ever started leaking. But even then, I was able to just tighten the clamp and the leaking stopped. This is way better than buying crimped lines. The rubber shrinks (because it is inferior to the OEM hose) and starts leaking. If it's crimped, you can't do anything other than replace the entire assembly. If it's clamped, you just tighten the clamp. Half your day and a mess to replace the lines or 2 minutes and no mess to tighten a clamp. I'll take the clamped together lines but feel free to replace the terrible aftermarket crimped lines as much as you want. Installing aftermarket crimped oil lines, now that is a "waste of time"

Thanks! I unfortunately didn't notice any difference with the new pump. The problem is internal to the motor

Thanks for reply I was afraid of that being the case

@@vincentmayer8511 No problem, it could still help depending on the situation. The 305 that used to be in this truck had low pressure because the pickup screen was gunked up with rtv. A new pump fixed the issue in that case. I would check it against another gauge before worrying too much

Yes sir I put mechanical gauge in and reading same as dash Gonna pull pump and see again thanks for video is a big help

I drilled a hole in the top of the tank and threaded a barb fitting into it. I then used JB weld original (the kwik weld won't hold up) to seal and further secure it. Read the pinned comment and replies for more info. Basically don't need the regulator, either put the return higher than the carb or find a way to somewhat restrict the return line to build a little pressure

Thanks, Trying to keep it alive lol

I used M4-0.7 10mm long bolts

@@PracticallyStock thank you sir, gonna get ahold of some and button it back up. If all goes well, its gonna be onto teardown and rust delete.

No problem. Best of luck, I found rust in mine from front to back. Definitely got in over my head but still making progress

If you have an old body style S10 I have a similar one. Generally speaking, once the oil is at operating temp, pressure will change with engine rpm. The pump on a 4.3 is driven by the cam so the volume of oil it pumps changes with engine speed. Higher rpm = more oil flow. The lowest pressure will be at idle since that is the lowest speed and thus pumping rate. As rpm increases, flow also increases which causes an increase in pressure as the additional oil has to force its way through the engine. An oil pump has a bypass that will bypass oil flow back to the pan once a high pressure is achieved. You often see this on a cold start when at idle the pressure goes around 60+psi because the oil is thick and resist flow. Every engine has a slightly different rule but there is a minimum pressure at idle and an expected increase in pressure for every 1000 rpm. The 4.3 in my s10 (at operating temp) is about 15-20psi at idle and 40-45psi at 2400rpm. If the pressure is drastically changing but rpm is not, then that may be a problem. If pressure rises and falls with rpm, it's probably good unless there is something else you are seeing to suggest otherwise. I just do this as a hobby, but hopefully that was helpful

As stated in the video, I do not own it and the guy who bought it wanted to see if it would run. In my mind, whatever is wrong can't be that bad given that the engine still wanted to run. (ie not a broke timing belt and likely no piston to valve action). If I had to guess, I would guess a valve is stuck in the guide on the now dead cylinder. Which might explain the "popping noise" from the beginning potentially from the valve popping closed after the cam lobe pulled away from it. If that is the case, then it must have stuck open during the drive. The owner isn't motivated to work on it but that's what I'm thinking happened.

No problem! I don't mess with transmissions much but it's my understanding that if the fluid is not burnt it probably didn't get hot enough to damage it (burnt fluid is very dark and obviously smells different than fresh fluid). I would also guess it's fine if this was a secondary cooler to the one in the radiator. I have another video on transmission cooling that I think is more helpful then this one if you are having problems. Basically what I experienced is torque converter unlocked = heat and Low rpm = less efficient cooling. czcams.com/video/2btiS1Gl3Xw/video.html

@@PracticallyStock thanks so much for getting back to me and your reply! I will check it out

The diff broke so it will get an actual limited slip in the near future, can't do much about the lack of power but it'll have a better chance of doing an actual burnout

Damn that sucks, I hate when if it ain’t one thing it’s another. 5 lug or 6 lug?

Way it goes. Currently 5 lug. squarebody parts up front for disk brakes which made it 5 lug so I got custom axles made for the dana44 to make it 5 lug

Nice. Well hope you get truck out soon for some cruising. Where in Texas? I’m by San Antonio

Thanks, I swapped a square body diff into it for now but the 3:08 gear in it sucks even on the highway. Not enough rpm to keep the TC locked on hills and headwinds. Maybe 1-2mpg better mileage with mostly highway. Rather not say because the internet is what it is