Just did the same job, the engine does not need to be raised to remove the oil pan. The oil pan will come out by tilting it back slightly and moving to the drivers side pushing slightly ahead, you will have just enough room to slide out with the oil pick up tube still in place.
Simon, you only have to unbolt the driver side motor mount, then jack on driver side of motor and the oil pan will come out very easy. If your oil pan is rusting through, you should replace the dipstick tube while the driver side motor mount is unbolted. The motor mount has to be removed to replace the dipstick tube.
You can get to both motor mounts super easy from the topside especially the passenger side one just remove the intake tube off the turbo and it's wide open to get the motor mount bolt and the driver side is easy from top or bottom 👍
viewing via on cell phone .. did you only remove one engine mount bolt and use 2x4 on pass side of engine.. Also have always wondered about the RV sealant - only use at the 4 corner of pan?? say the inch or 2 of curvature that makes the corner ?? a simple pen and paper line drawing of pan profile and box/circle the sealant areas like a schematic.. Its not you - put i have a seen few say the whole pan etc etc.. While another say something else on forums lol.. Thanks for video - solved 99% of my questions..
Charles the gasket that I got said to only to use it on the corners, and it is an area about 1 1/2 inches long and is very clearly marked. And, Yes I only loosened the one side and jacked it up with a 2x4....not the safest thing I have done but it got the job done without having to use a hoist...hope that helps, thanks!
Rob Bedard figure on a few hours. The dealership quoted me 4 hours, it took me a little less and I had to take the time to figure out how to jack up the engine. No need to remove either
Aaron Holowach my engine is the 5.7L gas. The gasket is not just one that goes around the edge but also has a whole metal pieces that cross over from side to side and front to back. There is really only one way to install it. One way to make sure is just take a picture as you take it apart
The shitty thing is, the Factory Service manual says the same thing abount the X-member. It references bolts on both sides allowing you to drop it, but i remember seeing the thing welded in place just like yours.
Scratch that. I was jumping back and forth in the manual and forgot to select the 5.9 engine option. The cross member step is for the gas models. The following steps are directly from the FSM for 3rd Gen cummins. REMOVAL (1) Disconnect the battery negative cables. (2) Install engine support fixture # 8534. (3) Raise vehicle on hoist. (4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor. (5) Remove transmission and transfer case (if equipped). (6) Remove flywheel or flexplate. (7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL) and transmission adapter plate assembly. WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. (8) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE). (9) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface is not damaged and tighten to 50 N·m (37 ft. lbs.) torque. (10) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction tube fasteners. (11) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
For anyone doing this, get the 2019 oil pan gasket. It is metal and rubber and so much better. It is also much less expensive. $30 at KLM Performance 5522189 is the cummins part number
If you don't have the welded cross member then you don't need to. That should just be 4 bolts to remove it and then easy access. If it's welded like mine was then there really isn't another option. If I recall correctly I spent almost 15 minutes trying to finagle that out without lifting the engine but wasn't able to.
@@simonrinehart6563 I was barely able to get the pan in there, but I had to to fasten the oil pick up line after wiggling the pan underneath it. One problem was I was holding the gasket up with the spacers and broke one off with the oil pan, any ideas on how to remove one of those plastic spacers that broke inside the threads?
@@Zzznow8 you could try and use a small Phillips head screwdriver to get a bite on the plastic and back it out. It would have to be fairly small though...
I dont get why dodge didn't make a section of the crossmember unbolt so we could get the oilpan off easier.. its a really easy job if you have an engine hoist the hardest part is getting the engine lifted the whole way up touching the firewall
Thanks for the video! Everything you said also applies to my 2006 5.7 Grand Cherokee.
Just did the same job, the engine does not need to be raised to remove the oil pan. The oil pan will come out by tilting it back slightly and moving to the drivers side pushing slightly ahead, you will have just enough room to slide out with the oil pick up tube still in place.
Was not looking forward to messing with engine mounts today. I was able to clear the tube finding the right angle.
How did the instal go?
Did mine today. You are !00% correct. It was very easy to get the old out and the new in with no damage at all. Thank you.
Heck yeah may the Almighty source bless you
Would clearance be any different depending on witch transmission we have ? I have g56
Great vidio good guys helped me out thanks for sharing brotherss
Simon, you only have to unbolt the driver side motor mount, then jack on driver side of motor and the oil pan will come out very easy. If your oil pan is rusting through, you should replace the dipstick tube while the driver side motor mount is unbolted. The motor mount has to be removed to replace the dipstick tube.
Does the engine mount absolutely have to be loosened or removed to remove the pan?
@@jeffreyschaecher4541
No, leave motor mount, mounted to frame, just unbolt the 3 bolts from the mount/engine.
That was a really good informative video ,good tip on the area for the sealant
Ugh....where was this info 3 years ago? Lol!
Oh lord I have to attempt this soon. Thanks for the tips!
so 8 months later, did you have fun with that oil pan
If you unhooked the swaybar links it lets the diffential drop further and gives you alot more room !
That doesn't do shit when you have a welded frame in your way at the front of the Pan that blocks your access
You can get to both motor mounts super easy from the topside especially the passenger side one just remove the intake tube off the turbo and it's wide open to get the motor mount bolt and the driver side is easy from top or bottom 👍
You apply RTV silicon on the gasket on both sides? the face to the engine and the face to the oil pan?
viewing via on cell phone .. did you only remove one engine mount bolt and use 2x4 on pass side of engine..
Also have always wondered about the RV sealant - only use at the 4 corner of pan?? say the inch or 2 of curvature that makes the corner ??
a simple pen and paper line drawing of pan profile and box/circle the sealant areas like a schematic.. Its not you - put i have a seen few say the whole pan etc etc.. While another say something else on forums lol..
Thanks for video - solved 99% of my questions..
Charles the gasket that I got said to only to use it on the corners, and it is an area about 1 1/2 inches long and is very clearly marked. And, Yes I only loosened the one side and jacked it up with a 2x4....not the safest thing I have done but it got the job done without having to use a hoist...hope that helps, thanks!
How long did it take you to change oil pan? Did you have to remove exhaust or boost tube?
Rob Bedard figure on a few hours. The dealership quoted me 4 hours, it took me a little less and I had to take the time to figure out how to jack up the engine. No need to remove either
Did you use a Cummins gasket? Did the smooth side go to the pan or the block?
Aaron Holowach my engine is the 5.7L gas. The gasket is not just one that goes around the edge but also has a whole metal pieces that cross over from side to side and front to back. There is really only one way to install it. One way to make sure is just take a picture as you take it apart
thats a hemi not cummings
We got to do my 05 cummins once weather gets warmer,, oil pan is rotted and dripping oil.. grrrr
The shitty thing is, the Factory Service manual says the same thing abount the X-member. It references bolts on both sides allowing you to drop it, but i remember seeing the thing welded in place just like yours.
Scratch that. I was jumping back and forth in the manual and forgot to select the 5.9 engine option. The cross member step is for the gas models. The following steps are directly from the FSM for 3rd Gen cummins.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(6) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER
MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(8) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface
is not damaged and tighten to 50 N·m (37 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(11) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
For anyone doing this, get the 2019 oil pan gasket. It is metal and rubber and so much better. It is also much less expensive. $30 at KLM Performance 5522189 is the cummins part number
Do you need to raise the engine on a 2wd Hemi?
If you don't have the welded cross member then you don't need to. That should just be 4 bolts to remove it and then easy access. If it's welded like mine was then there really isn't another option. If I recall correctly I spent almost 15 minutes trying to finagle that out without lifting the engine but wasn't able to.
@@simonrinehart6563 I was barely able to get the pan in there, but I had to to fasten the oil pick up line after wiggling the pan underneath it. One problem was I was holding the gasket up with the spacers and broke one off with the oil pan, any ideas on how to remove one of those plastic spacers that broke inside the threads?
@@Zzznow8 you could try and use a small Phillips head screwdriver to get a bite on the plastic and back it out. It would have to be fairly small though...
I dont get why dodge didn't make a section of the crossmember unbolt so we could get the oilpan off easier.. its a really easy job if you have an engine hoist the hardest part is getting the engine lifted the whole way up touching the firewall
What was the torque spec
So Simon Rinehart you only had to loosen the engine mount on the passenger side and only support the engine on the passenger side
Passenger need not to be touched. Just unbolt drivers side motor mount and jack up about 2" on the drivers side.
Dale Cole
What’s the cost for having this repair done ?
My cost was only a couple hundred dollars for all the materials. I got a number of quotes that ranged from $800 - over $1000
I'll do it for $250
I just did mine 1994 model. Nightmare... I made it though..
We’re you born special u skipped the only difficult part of the video removing the actual pan