One of the reasons I’ve seen folks get into trouble with asymetric bevels is when they follow the advice to grind on one side til they raise a burr then flip do the same thing on the other side. Then they move to next stone without paying any attention to the fact that they’ve ground 4 or 5 times more steel off the first side of the blade.
I just bought a couple Arkansas stones and this video was very helpful! My knives are sharp ..but I'm not happy with the edge they have. Your channel is super helpful!! Thank you!!
Center scribe. There is also something similar used on cabochons before shaping them. It is used so you can tell where to stop shaping the dome shape so you don't take away too much bevel.
Good video Chris. I hate it when one side of the blade is jacked up like you talk about. It's one thing if the steel starts to take the corrective strokes right away but if the steel is hard or just too many edge issues then the fight begins. I've left one side uneven after working on it a long time & the edge was still not coming in line. I just felt it was too much metal removal to make the correction all the way.. The other side was decent enough to come in line without too much metal removal. Hard to know which way to go sometimes.
Steve Kushman yea sometimes i will.leave a spot or 2 just depends on a few things. i dont like doing that. but i dont wanna eat a blade away either. Usually ill fight it to the bitter end though lol
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening Yes sir. I find myself fighting to near the end. Usually the heel of the blade is where I end stopping. That dang factory belt grind digs in too deep at the heel of the blade. Too much metal has to come off to get things correct & I usually stop there. It irks me to no end when shit is jacked up on a brand new blade.
Some knives come from the factory with a microbevel. I'm not a big fan of microbevels, because the edge can't be as keen (pure geometry), but I can see how it resists chipping a little more, and makes it easier to hone, with just a few strokes. I tend to reshape the bevel if that's the case, as I prefer a sharper edge. And a few knives are also designed as a right hand (or left-hand) knife, with a wider angle on one side than the other. For marking and fine shaves, I can see the appeal. But it won't be a good all round knife.
...good info...just finished a blade in s90v...that was a job; but luckily it was 'almost' a perfect edge grind too begin with...not great, but close...
hey Rooster your channels great for down to earth info, i use Arkansas stones more than anything else, they're the best, always with oil, believe it or not, anyway, you asked about the tool knifemakers use to put a centerline on the edge before grinding the bevels, the tool is just called a marking gauge or scribe, or a centerline scriber, all kinds of names like that. knife supply cos. sell them, in different forms, also i suggest using a 2 or 3 inch magnifying glass as well as a loupe, microscope, whatever, they're all good tools to use. Thanks for your videos, and do you ever use Belgian Blue stones? not yellow Coticule, but just the blue? i believe they are similar to a hard or maybe a black Arkansas...
gary selhorst thanks for the info. and i do use a loup. as far as the Belgium. i have tried one, and they are no where near a Black Arkansas. the yellow is the finer of the 2 btw.
@Primitive Baptist Forum II ive gotten natural stones from sharpening supplies.com and was not impressed. And I have to disagree on the Belgium being finer than a black ark. I know this from experience.
What about edges that come as concave hollow grinds? Do you re-profile so the entire hollow section becomes flat? I’ve had a couple of knives that came factory with very deep hollow grinds on them and never sure how much to re-profile.
If you need to find the center of a flat stock as reference to a bevel, scrape it with a drill of the same with while laying on a flat surface. If you dont have it, scribe it again after turning the stock around. Between the two lines is the center...
Do you know anything about- American Hone Co., Monrovia, Iowa. 00 frictionite. Tuned by barber's on straight razors, I happened to find/buy one and looking for any info. I have used it on my Buck 112 and was amazed by the results.
CodeRed I'm glad you did man! It really depends on the severity of the issue. I used a dmt 320 coarse for years. Then I bought a dmt extra coarse. And that thing will flat out remove some steel. Bigger the grind the more coarse if its like a spyderco pm2 or a Benchmade grip etc a coarse 320 grit should be fine. Thanks for the question man!
Hello, nice and informative videos you make. What is your opinion or pros/cons on a v-edge? Many sharpeners favor convex edge geometry. But there is a lot negative talk about V-edges, why is that?
Kenneth bjørn i dont know why there is alot of negative talk about V Edges. The way everybody is hung up on Wicked Edge and Edge Pro and the kme you would think that via Edge is the best thing going. I used the Lansky for years and I think it done a fantastic job I think it's all a matter of preference but I do like convex also. Freehand is somewhat convexed anyway. V edge is just like a small scandi
Richard Bryant zt never had heat treat issues. there were a couple that had small spots of color from them sharpening them on the belts and some moron hat got one hit the forums and a rumour spread like wildfire. ive sharpened over 1000 zts and this is the first issue ive had
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Ya. I'd have never known it was off till I sharpened it. I sharpen my own knives. I'm not going to send a knife back to microtech just to get sharpened.lol That's ridiculous.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Btw sharpening a microtech doesn't void the warranty. If you mess it up sharpening it they aren't going to fix that free. But they actually reworded the warranty cards so they no longer say you can't sharpen them unless your affiliated with microtech.
scott Koblitz they didn’t know whT they are talking about then. A friend of mine sent one back 2 weeks ago and they returned it and said he would have to pay for the repairs because it had been sharpened.
I want to send you one or two knives I've free hand sharpened for review. I'm looking to get your honest no holds barred opinion on what I may be doing wrong or right. I think Steve from Texas gave you my contact info. Let's get in touch.
it bothers me that you can buy a knife that costs hundreds of dollars an the bevel is all over the place. I expect that on a cheap nasty knife but not anything half decent and especially not high end stuff.
Considering they are making cutting tools, if they can't put a proper edge on it at the end they probably shouldn't be using that steel type. I don't think it has to be a mirror polish but at least be even over the blade and each side. A lot of knife makers unfortunately use power tools to grind and buff the edge so not much effort goes into it.
Also they could overheat the edge. probably not the whole bevel but the apex. Have you ever experienced a knife where after a couple sharpenings the edge retention goes up?
One of the reasons I’ve seen folks get into trouble with asymetric bevels is when they follow the advice to grind on one side til they raise a burr then flip do the same thing on the other side. Then they move to next stone without paying any attention to the fact that they’ve ground 4 or 5 times more steel off the first side of the blade.
All part of experience. Gotta pay attention to what you are doing
Great info. I need a jewelers loop. I have used the camera on my phone to see my edges. I get an 8X zoom which helps with chips and rolls.
Scott McLaughlin good idea. A Jewelers loup is way more precise tho
I think you did a excellent job covering the subject sir.
👍😎👍
Jay Lane thanks man
I just bought a couple Arkansas stones and this video was very helpful! My knives are sharp ..but I'm not happy with the edge they have. Your channel is super helpful!! Thank you!!
Center scribe. There is also something similar used on cabochons before shaping them. It is used so you can tell where to stop shaping the dome shape so you don't take away too much bevel.
Ray Cornett hmm didn't know that
Good video Chris. I hate it when one side of the blade is jacked up like you talk about. It's one thing if the steel starts to take the corrective strokes right away but if the steel is hard or just too many edge issues then the fight begins. I've left one side uneven after working on it a long time & the edge was still not coming in line. I just felt it was too much metal removal to make the correction all the way.. The other side was decent enough to come in line without too much metal removal. Hard to know which way to go sometimes.
Steve Kushman yea sometimes i will.leave a spot or 2 just depends on a few things. i dont like doing that. but i dont wanna eat a blade away either. Usually ill fight it to the bitter end though lol
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening Yes sir. I find myself fighting to near the end. Usually the heel of the blade is where I end stopping. That dang factory belt grind digs in too deep at the heel of the blade. Too much metal has to come off to get things correct & I usually stop there. It irks me to no end when shit is jacked up on a brand new blade.
Some knives come from the factory with a microbevel. I'm not a big fan of microbevels, because the edge can't be as keen (pure geometry), but I can see how it resists chipping a little more, and makes it easier to hone, with just a few strokes. I tend to reshape the bevel if that's the case, as I prefer a sharper edge.
And a few knives are also designed as a right hand (or left-hand) knife, with a wider angle on one side than the other. For marking and fine shaves, I can see the appeal. But it won't be a good all round knife.
Art Heen this is true. And yea chisel grind. ehhh lol
I just had to keep looking see that he was using a jewelers loop I love the analogy of having a clean canvas before you start your edge
gary samples i dont use a loup that often.
That first bevel you were talking about I did have that problem on my victornox blade it felt sharp but it does not cut
...good info...just finished a blade in s90v...that was a job; but luckily it was 'almost' a perfect edge grind too begin with...not great, but close...
JCB 67 that always helps a bunch to have a good foundation to start on
hey Rooster your channels great for down to earth info, i use Arkansas stones more than anything else, they're the best, always with oil, believe it or not, anyway, you asked about the tool knifemakers use to put a centerline on the edge before grinding the bevels, the tool is just called a marking gauge or scribe, or a centerline scriber, all kinds of names like that. knife supply cos. sell them, in different forms, also i suggest using a 2 or 3 inch magnifying glass as well as a loupe, microscope, whatever, they're all good tools to use. Thanks for your videos, and do you ever use Belgian Blue stones? not yellow Coticule, but just the blue? i believe they are similar to a hard or maybe a black Arkansas...
gary selhorst thanks for the info. and i do use a loup. as far as the Belgium. i have tried one, and they are no where near a Black Arkansas. the yellow is the finer of the 2 btw.
@Primitive Baptist Forum II ive gotten natural stones from sharpening supplies.com and was not impressed. And I have to disagree on the Belgium being finer than a black ark. I know this from experience.
What about edges that come as concave hollow grinds? Do you re-profile so the entire hollow section becomes flat?
I’ve had a couple of knives that came factory with very deep hollow grinds on them and never sure how much to re-profile.
Occams Sawzall you just adjust your angle. It being a hollow grind u would use less angle. Its already thin behind the edge. Not much is required
If you need to find the center of a flat stock as reference to a bevel, scrape it with a drill of the same with while laying on a flat surface. If you dont have it, scribe it again after turning the stock around. Between the two lines is the center...
That will work if your stock is flat, and you are making a knife. This will not work to correct messed up bevels. 2 completely different subjects
That is true
Do you know anything about- American Hone Co., Monrovia, Iowa. 00 frictionite. Tuned by barber's on straight razors, I happened to find/buy one and looking for any info. I have used it on my Buck 112 and was amazed by the results.
Great video! Good topic!
I gained a lot of needed info man,thanks. I just have one question, what grit stone should I be using to reprofile a blade.
CodeRed I'm glad you did man! It really depends on the severity of the issue. I used a dmt 320 coarse for years. Then I bought a dmt extra coarse. And that thing will flat out remove some steel. Bigger the grind the more coarse if its like a spyderco pm2 or a Benchmade grip etc a coarse 320 grit should be fine. Thanks for the question man!
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening thanks for the reply man, I'll def give that a try
CodeRed no problem
I need help I over sharpened my Butcher knife not the face of the blade is curveed and not complete it’s a simple mistake erase can it be fixed
Anything can be fixed 😜
Hello, nice and informative videos you make. What is your opinion or pros/cons on a v-edge? Many sharpeners favor convex edge geometry. But there is a lot negative talk about V-edges, why is that?
Kenneth bjørn i dont know why there is alot of negative talk about V Edges. The way everybody is hung up on Wicked Edge and Edge Pro and the kme you would think that via Edge is the best thing going. I used the Lansky for years and I think it done a fantastic job I think it's all a matter of preference but I do like convex also. Freehand is somewhat convexed anyway. V edge is just like a small scandi
I heard the earlier 0801’s had a heat treat issue with the elmax I have two 0801’s in the 9000 serial number I wonder if it was corrected by then
Richard Bryant zt never had heat treat issues. there were a couple that had small spots of color from them sharpening them on the belts and some moron hat got one hit the forums and a rumour spread like wildfire. ive sharpened over 1000 zts and this is the first issue ive had
I'm doing a tanto microtech ultratech from the factory that was way off centered. I'm going to have to take a lot of blade off to center it up.
scott Koblitz I would have sent it back the warranty is voided now
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Ya. I'd have never known it was off till I sharpened it. I sharpen my own knives. I'm not going to send a knife back to microtech just to get sharpened.lol That's ridiculous.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Btw sharpening a microtech doesn't void the warranty. If you mess it up sharpening it they aren't going to fix that free. But they actually reworded the warranty cards so they no longer say you can't sharpen them unless your affiliated with microtech.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 I asked a microtech employee to be sure before I sharpened it.
scott Koblitz they didn’t know whT they are talking about then. A friend of mine sent one back 2 weeks ago and they returned it and said he would have to pay for the repairs because it had been sharpened.
Where did you go
I want to send you one or two knives I've free hand sharpened for review. I'm looking to get your honest no holds barred opinion on what I may be doing wrong or right. I think Steve from Texas gave you my contact info. Let's get in touch.
Justin Close ok cool. and no i dont believe so. email me at southerntrader124@gmail.com
Got a question for you
What's that?
Love my haters! lol motivation! haha
you are acting like a 13 year old blond chick from the suburbs. it's called having an opinion, not hating.
it bothers me that you can buy a knife that costs hundreds of dollars an the bevel is all over the place. I expect that on a cheap nasty knife but not anything half decent and especially not high end stuff.
scottecooke i know it man. and rhen u call them about it, and they wanna grind it down.
Considering they are making cutting tools, if they can't put a proper edge on it at the end they probably shouldn't be using that steel type. I don't think it has to be a mirror polish but at least be even over the blade and each side. A lot of knife makers unfortunately use power tools to grind and buff the edge so not much effort goes into it.
scottecooke couldn't agree more. and some of these ppl do hundreds of knives daily i bet. so there will be lots of various edges lol
Also they could overheat the edge. probably not the whole bevel but the apex. Have you ever experienced a knife where after a couple sharpenings the edge retention goes up?
scottecooke i actually have.
Hard to watch your videos. All the "uh" and "um"s every other word.
@@Dashr44 cool. Don't fuckin watch them.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 I'm not. LoL
@@Dashr44 good. I have plenty of subs. And I talk to them daily. Thanks tho!
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 No problem. You're welcome.