This is my biggest failure yet...
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2020
- I set out to make a closed loop subzero system... I learned a lot about what to do... and what NOT to do...
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Here comes a comment from PhD.
1. Some obvious stuff: When you put in contact two media with different temperature the heat transfer will occur making the temperature (difference zero (in a infinitely long run, that's what thermodynamics is, its about static equilibrium states). The resulting temperature will depend on heat produced on cpu side and heat removed on coolant side (cooling being produced by phase transition, i.e. sublimation). However it will be reduced by the heat transfer due to limited heat conductivity - remember that you are using high-glycol mix with quite a low heat capacity and conductivity).
2. Hence we need to find out the real temperature on cpu block's bottom surface and water going in and out. More thermal probes, Jay! This will show how well the heat transfers through your cpu block. From this you will see if you need to increase the flow rate or maybe use a custom block. If you see the water temperature difference (Tin-Tout) is low then it means you have inefficient CPU block. I strongly advice against using thicker plate - it will not tip the resulting temperature, it will saturate at the same point. Instead you need to increase the heat transfer efficiency by creating a custom block with long path (=high area of heat transfer). Here's the idea: Mill a 6 mm deep 3 mm wide channel in a 9 mm copper plate forming a long labyrinth-like path. It won't lead to a high flow resistance due to 18mm2 channel cross-section and on such a big IHS can get you a really good heat exchange. Microfins are for watercooling, where heat conductivity, capacity and viscosity are different.
3. Perhaps you're limited by the heat transfer though the thermal paste. Go for In-Ga eutectic (Conductonaut), even if it freezes you'll get a nice metal conductivity. And it probably won't even freeze.
On a technical side - you can probably dip a metal cylinder (or a bent 2" metal pipe) filled with dry ice into your water bucket, the heat transfer will go through the metal wall but you won't have the bubbles to deal with.
4. Looking forward to see some experiments with In-Ga eutectic used as heat transfer liquid instead of water. Yeah, it's corrosive and messy but it's another league of heat conductivity.
like so jay can see it
Yeah regular 50/50 antifreeze mix has relatively poor thermal conductivity and still can only handle up to ~-20 C before freezing. It's why most dry ice cooling uses acetone or an alcohol as the solvent. Also using a liquid metal thermal interface is a bad idea because it will crack at lower temperatures.
@@Ironclad17 I disagree with the last point. CPU temp isn't any close to zero, so I assume thermal interface to be in 20-50C range (avg between CPU and coolant). It won't go below zero anyway. Of course the easiest way to find out is to test it.
Auto water pump? Electric powered or Mechanical? Using a washing machine motor and a fan belt would make a lot of noise. Those Pumps tested to start at -40C. Not really made to keep pumping 50/50 glycol indefinitely at -40. They rely on the engine to warm the fluid up.
Would lapping the CPU and block help in this case at all? Having better metal to metal contact should increase heat transfer and reduce the reliance on thermal past or liquid metal, no?
Tony Stark: “How’d you solve the icing problem?”
Jay: “icing problem...?”
lmao
Mmm.... Icing!
“When I don’t know what to do I put my finger in” words to live by
Love the thumbnail "Compete Fialure" lmao
I'm working on an electrical engineering degree and I've had a thermodynamics class so not sure if I count... But if your going to get a specialy machined block. I would recommend getting at least some fins put in the liquid side. They don't have to be anything fancy or small. Just something to increase the surface area and help get the block cool faster and keep it cooler.
@@dayv207 That is the definition of cooling. Moving heat away from something.
Hello, a fellow electrical engineer! Given the thickness of the fluid, I would be more tempted to have a grid of pins instead of fins. having an alternating pin design would allow turbulence to occur taking more heat from the block. Fins would allow the fluid to become to laminar.
Doesn't take a rocket scientist to tell you heat dissipation and surface area are pretty intimately intertwined, like, ya know, a radiator.....
Ugh... This is just as bad as "as a mother..." If you're a student it doesn't count!
@@RustySh4ckleford Says the gender studies "graduate"
0:02
Who the hell are you!?!?!?!
Where's my StevesTwoCents!?!?!?!??!
As a recent Mech. E graduate who designed a cooling block array for my senior project, I have a few notes that might be helpful for the next iteration.
1) Beefing up the cooling block is good because it increases your capacity to absorb thermal energy from the CPU. But, as others have mentioned, surface area is more important. More surface contact between the coolant and the block means a higher bandwidth for energy to flow from the block into the glycol; more fluid molecules are in contact with the block, allowing for a higher rate of energy transfer.
2) If possible, I would use copper instead of whatever generic machining aluminum (probably 6060 or something) is used in the block you have now. Copper has like twice the thermal conductivity of aluminum, so the rest of your loop only has to be half as effective for the same results.
3) Minor detail, but making some kind of semi-lid will help prevent some of the cold air from escaping and increase your cooling duration, only slightly. Just keep a small opening to prevent pressure buildup and to let you add more ice.
On a side note, I would apply a sealant (maybe silicone) around the CPU block. It seems like condensation would be a real concern after running the loop for extended periods of time. Cover up that motherboard!
Also, that glycol coagulation thing is rough. Unfortunately my experience with coolants is limited so I can't really offer an alternative that'll stay less viscous as it cools. Good luck!
I'm talking a little out of my field, but i am aerospace undergrad. But the thing you need to know is that no matter how thick or thin the block is, the temp will always try to reach an equilibrium. I cant tell you the problem exactly but i can tell you two things that would give you a chance to figure it out. First is the liquid you’re using might have a really low thermal conductivity, meaning that it just wont be efficient enough to transfer the heat. To fix this you could try changing the liquid to something less organic. Liquid metals have the highest thermal conductivity. The second thing is that it is never a good idea to rapidly cool metal, so you could have a closed loop with really long tubes, and run them through a body of the liquid where you monitor the temp of that one and cool it down when needed. Best part is that you don’t need to know the temp of the intermediate closed system because you know if the open system is tending towards equilibrium with the computer, you know the intermediate system is too. That being said I still would so you know how efficiently that is transferring heat from the computer to the open system. I don’t have my degree yet but I hope this helped :)
Recent Aero grad here (3 years is recent right? I'm not old yet right?). I'm curious, how far along are you and what do you plan on focusing on? If you get the chance to take a heat and mass transfer class, I highly recommend even if it's not required (sometimes is, sometimes isn't), especially if you want to get into propulsion. If you aren't afraid of some self-study, you might be able to find an older copy of heat and mass transfer by incropera and dewitt floating around online which is fairly readable (of course I'd recommend buying things like that if you can...but I know how things be in college...). I had to teach myself from that book in the span of a week for when I was doing work as a thermal-fluids engineer for a large aerospace company, I can't say it's the best textbook but it got the job done with almost no fluff
Jon Paul Pepen that’s cool, I’m just going into second year and yeah I pick space systems and design, so more space focused, but I’ll probably still take the class, thanks for the heads up
LOL linus thought the same thing about the antifreeze when he did whole room water cooling. that ended very well.
I mean to be fair the main issue they had with whole room water cooling was bacteria in the pipes and blocks.
@@Livedracersteve That was my point, at 16:15 they said that the antifreeze has growth inhibitors which is what Linus thought when he did whole room water cooling.
The title is how my mom introduces me
LoL
Does your mom work in the based department?
If you're her biggest failure yet, she's still working on something bigger.
Brilliant
😂 THE NEW NORMAL
I'm in possession of two science licences (Electrical Engineering and Biomedical Engineering):
1) Do NOT increase the thickness of the metal coldplate. It won't help unless you're dealing with high-frequency temperature spikes. Since it'll mean that you lose the microfins in the block, it will even worsen your results. You probably know that more surface area = better.
2) The same goes for the jetplate. It's there on purpose, to push the liquid through the fins so you properly make use of all that surface area. If the liquid is too thick to properly flow through the fins, removing the jetplate won't do anything useful besides reducing the workload of the pumps. Those things don't like pushing very hard if they're not build for it.
3) The use of car coolants might not be as useful as you think. That stuff doesn't freeze until -40C (or the idiot-equivalent in F), but it's not made to be effective at that temperature. Some of those liquids are actually designed to be in-effective at subzero temperatures! That's because an engine doesn't like to run cold, so you'd want to quickly warm it up and only start proper heat conduction around the operating temperature.
4) It might sound odd, but an old coldplate (or a very cheap one) might do the trick for you. Those tend to have less fine fins, so the liquid has a more easy time to flow, but you still have way more surface area than without those things. The problem would be mounting it on a brand new socket, but I know Linus has some experience with janky solutions :P.
5) To help your pumps, you should change the order of the components. So ice bucket -> CPU_block -> pump -> ice bucket. Pumps don't like high viscosity liquids, so heating it up first might help a tiny bit. I know it's a bad idea to have the pump before the reservoir, so you could add a secondary reservoir between the CPU block and the pump to make life easier.
6) Try an alcohol-based liquid. Though you might need to exchange the tubing when you do, it has better viscosity properties at low temperatures and has very well documented thermal properties as well.
After watching this, I had a thought. So I went to the kitchen, opened the freezer. Got out the ice tray. Took 3cubes and placed them in a clear cylinder of glass I let them sit for about a minute for appropriate thermal transfer. I proceeded to get a chemical solution of C2H5OH and pour it over the ice. There is an instant display of heat transfer. I swirl the cubes in the glass for a bit more thermal transfer. I then add a bit of C30H32N8O10. Then I watched this video again. Great job guys. Great job.🥃
I remember working for a marine supply about very cold weather coolants that are alcohol based, they would be harsh on some plastics, but might have more flow. Or dunno be like Boris and just use Vodka?
Car coolant is alcohol, just not consumable alcohol.
Cheeki Breeki!
The freezing point point pure ethanol alcohol is -114 C (-173.2 F). Dry ice sublimates at -78.5°C (-109.3°F). If I were doing this project I would make a heat exchanger. Have a pot full of pure ethanol (or as close as you can get it). Run a copper loop through the ethanol in the pot with as many loops as you can get. Fill the loop with ethanol ( the challenge will be getting pure ethanol. You could use high proof alcohol like everclear, but you may have to do a freeze distillation to get rid of the water. That would require experimentation.) and pump the ethanol through the loops in the pot full of ethanol (closed loop into the heat exhanger). Keep in mind also that the viscosity of ethanol at -50c is roughly 3 times that of water at STP. Your pumps will be working hard and may fail. You may have to choose a different type of pump. Also, the bubbling dry ice will produce a lot of ethanol vapor. You will need to exhaust those gasses or you may be making a potentially explosive air mixture. I'd use a pressure cooker to hold the heat exchanger, and drill & tap a large diameter hole (at least an inch), and attach that to a hose I'd run to the bottom of a 5 gallon drinking water jug. Exhaust the gases that bubble up through the water. The main concern is buildup of potentially explosive vapors, oxygen displacing gases, and intoxicants in the air you are breathing.
But exhausting the gases bubbling up through the water will solve that.
So fill the closed loop with ethanol. 3/4 fill the pot (heat exchanger). Immerse the copper loops in the ethanol in the pot. Drop in the dry ice Close & secure the lid (not a risk for explosion because the vapors are being forced out through the hose). Either directly duct that hose to open air outside, or bubble through water and then exhaust the gases with a fan.
You should be able to drive the temps of the ethanol down to -70 or even cooler without freezing the ethanol.
@@thebarkingmouse Denatured Alcohol could be good substitute for pure ethanol. Not sure about availability these days, though that could be a problem with any alcohol products.
@@thebarkingmouse isopropyl has superior specific heat capacity and density.... But it's also more viscous. Hmm.
I dont know how a ln2 cooling pot for a motherboard looks like but im a chemist and im working on sub zero reactions. You could use a pot with a direct contact plate and mix isopropanol and dry ice. This will get you to around -70°C. This would be easier and quicker as it doesnt require a pump.
but its not a loop
cooling pots are literally just a block with a hole in it that you screw onto the CPU and continuously pour LN² into it and letting it evaporate
Yeah exactly you can just use a LN2 pot with dry ice instead. I’ve seen it done lol
The problem with that is a soon as it gets hot the whole pot and it’s contents will start to warm up as well I think that’s why he wants a loop
@@dallatorretdu You can make it a loop though... The only problem would be pumping it as you'd have to use insulted metal pipes. The tank would have to be metal and you just dump dry ice in there and fill it with alcohol. You might have to get a specialized pump though.
I love that you post stuff even when it doesn't work out.
It's awesome to come along on the journey of you guys figuring stuff out, even if there are some missteps along the way
Classic moment in Jay's catalog of fun ... "... That tastes terrible ... ugh, so do the shop towels!" :o)
jay: "this is my biggest failure yet..."
also jay: *drills through visible traces on a motherboard and kills it*
wait, what vid is that, I wanna see!!! lmao
@@allanhuseyin6370 I wanted to cry on that video
@@thereddog223 And the "soldering" attempt on the GPU. Um, I can see a trend here.
@@allanhuseyin6370 same
@@allanhuseyin6370 czcams.com/video/67glAjdvwLc/video.html
CZcams auto captions calls him Jay's $0.02 XD I'm dying
And it's perfectly correct !
JAY POINT ZERO TWO DOLLA
hey some people dont have money as well
Jay's too sense
@Jayztwocents. I have a refrigeration background. Many large scale facilities use Co2 in a separate closed loop, set in a resivour of either ammonia or glycol. It would take some planning, but it won't cost as much as the Tech that was destroyed.
Actual Mechanical Engineer here, heat transfer is a bit of a specialty of mine. Set up a regular loop with a radiator and submerge the radiator in the dry ice/fluid mix. Have a pump circulate the ice/fluid mix across the rad. Use isopropyl alcohol for both loops, it stays liquid until -125F or so and is much thinner than glycol based coolants. The thicker block will only make things worse and using isopropyl alcohol should solve flow problems across the fins. I don't recommend long term use like this though. Corrosion would be a concern.
"Compete Fialure" 😂😂😂😬😬😬
Even the thumbnail is a compete failure. Jay, are you even? 🤣
@@blockbertus r/woosh
Ophiussa no
Ophiussa no
@@NotFoundead no
16:10 you’re wrong about using car antifreeze in your loop having growth inhibitors. Linus tech tips did that in whole room water cooling and it failed as it expects significantly high temps of an engine to kill most bacteria.
Linus is the very definition of FAILURE. Don't take anything he does seriously.
@@Digikidthevoiceofreason yo dude why the hate ?
(Im just a noob and havent seen to many of his vids but ive seen some and they seemed informative)
@@Digikidthevoiceofreason He has built an empire, you?...
@@Digikidthevoiceofreason Lols, the failure with one of the most successful tech CZcams channels in the world.
I started watching your channel a couple of weeks ago, when I bought a prebuilt middle of the road PC to use in my home. I've always wanted to be a PC gamer, but it's always been too pricy - anyway - LOVE the channel! I'm almost binging it. I wanted to let you know that your content quality has led me to abandon my adblocker for the first time ever (permanently). Thanks so much for the entertainment and information! I'm planning to try to do my first build after Christmas and will be coming back for instruction. Keep it up and thanks again! You've made the quarantine much more tolerable! Oops! I needed to edit because I gotta give major props to Phil as well for the work he does!
Mechanical Engineer, Registered in the State of California. I am licensed for thermodynamics, though I generally don't look at things this small.
You'll need custom fluid blocks to make this work, and more trial and error.
Glycol has both a higher viscosity than water, making it harder to pump, and a lower specific heat, meaning you'll need to pump more glycol than water for a given heat transfer.
The blocks do not need to be much thicker than what you are currently using, thick enough to ensure mechanical strength and uniform heat transfer(more or less).
Cold Propylene Glycol/water (-20C) is even more viscous than pure Propylene Glycol that is warm (10C).
Test pump flow at temperature(-20C). Lacking a flow meter, time how long the pumps take to fill a known volume. The pump should be 1 meter below the fill volume, this will give you the pump's flow against 1 meter of head pressure.
The reservoir feeding the pumps should be at the same height as the pumps, not on the table feeding pumps on the floor.
You can also test at other heights 0 meter, 1/2 meter and/or 2 meters to create a rough pump curve.
Once you know how much your pump can flow against 1 meter of head, you can calculate rough flow requirements to verify that your pumps can flow enough cold glycol to handle the overclocking power load.
Density
50:50 PG/Water @ -20C 1061.7 kg/m^3
Specific heat (kJ/(kg*C))
50:50 PG/Water @ -20C 3.378 (kJ/(kg*C))
Fluid flow rate for 1000 Watts at -10C, fluid -20C to -15C
Assumes ideal heat transfer into the fluid
59.2 grams/s mass flow rate
0.0558 liters per second volumetric flow rate
3.35 liters per minute volumetric flow rate per 1000 Watts
6.7 liters per minute for 2000 watts
10.05 liters per minute for 3000 watts
Decreasing the temperature difference between entering fluid temp and leaving fluid temp will increase the flow rate. A temperature difference of 2.5C will double the required flow rate.
Increasing the temperature difference between entering fluid temp and leaving fluid temp will decrease the flow rate. A temperature difference of 10C will halve the required flow rate.
The labyrinth channel described by others is intended to create turbulence in the flow path and increase fluid contact time with the block.
Temperature difference drives sensible heat flow, so less heat will transfer into the fluid as the fluid approaches the temperature of the heat spreader. Multiple channels may be required to avoid hot spots (at -10C) on the block.
The metal between the channels should be less than the width of the flow channels. Think fins on a radiator.
Depth of the channels should be greater than width. Again, like a fin. There is a point of diminishing returns, 2 times the width is a good starting point for experimentation.
The flow channels should be sized to avoid laminar flow, which decreases heat transfer efficiency.
There is a calculation for this, Reynolds Number (Re).
I really want a part 2 to this video.
11:06 Thank you Jay for knowing that dry ice sublimates and not saying that it melts.
I really enjoyed this video, trial and error, finding out what works and what doesn't. It's interesting watching a process and how to solve the problems.
Hey Jay. Just to give you some pro tips. I'm an industrial refrigeration tech. If you install a dehumidifier in your shop you can actually use L02 with no insulation and no condensation frost will occur. And if you get a refractometer for your coolant you can specify the freeze point. You should run alcohol as your coolant. Really hard to freeze and it doesn't sludge up even At -50. Good luck on your second try. We have freezers that go to -65 degrees F. They are as big as your shop though.
Check out Munters Dehumidifiers.
Alternative Title: Let's Watch Jay Put Probably Too Much Antifreeze in his Mouth.
What would be the correct amount of antifreeze to put in your mouth?
@@DamnZodiak All of it.
When you make a new custom bottom for the block, mill in some fins to inc surface area, they dont have to be micro or small since the fluid will be thicker.
Exactly, just like the bottom of a LN2 pot, you need holes in it to catch some of the coolant so there is more surface area used
I don’t have a “science license” but I was thinking fewer big fins just like you said. Just a flat piece of metal doesn’t seem like it would give the cold a good chance of “winning”
I think LTT did that with some custom blocks for a switch
Hi jay. You can put all of your component into a mineral oil bath so you can avoid the condensation, at least you can see a little solidification of oil near the block, you can use a fan into the oil to reduce this effect.
Take the pump on the hotter part of the loop, so you can handle better the increment of density of the collant and condensation. For the coolant you can try to use alcohol. An than the experiment BeCoME VerY GoooooD.... If the pump group makes problem you can use a radiator to increase the temp of the coolant at the inlet of the pump. The loop if closed is better (for the pump) you can use multiple radiator in a tin to increment the quantity of energy exchanged with the loop. You can find the threshold(sufficient number of radiator) with a monitoring the temp of the loop and the tin.
Good luck for the next video
It will be awesome as usual
1. Change fluid to high purity rubbing alcohol. We use it at work for cryo-welding parts.
Once it gets cold enough the rubbing alcohol stops evaporating and stays a fluid as water.
Never tested the temp but gets cold enough for the dry ice to nearly stop bubbling.
2. Use glass or metal tubing to avoid entailment.
3. Flow the liquid up through the dry ice so the small chips sink in the opposite direction of flow.
4. No clue but you need a better thermal interface. Maybe even using the IHS as the bottom plate of the cooling block.
"When I'm not sure what to do I stick my finger in!" - Story of my life
How many girls or boys did you just stick a finger in ?
This is like watching Tim Allen's Home Improvement Tech Edition! :D :D
Exactly what I thought. That pump needs MORE POWER!
@@Svuppedasker Hahahaha! :D
TOOL TIME
Home Improvement was an awesome show. I miss it. Tim Allen is a genius.
Thx Jay, had a fun time watching this. Reminds me of myself 15 years ago going sub zero with a closed loop using a peltier element. You should indeed use a cold plate where the temperature extremes meet. My waterblocks did not have microfins and I was able to use regular car motor coolant. (P.S. I don't think your setup is a closed loop since your bucket/reservior need to be opened).
The humor in your vids, make my day!!!! Keep going, Jay! Cheers.
Even though it failed, this was still one of the most interesting videos in a long time =)
100% agree!!
Love the videos and have learned A LOT from them, but my favorite part by far is how much of a dad Jay can be in his videos with all the jokes. Also Phil we love Phil!!!!!
I got several science licenses in chemistry and I recommend using pure ethanol with your dry ice. It freezes at -114 °C (-173 °F) and you should be okay in terms of it freezing over. In combination with dry ice (depending on how much you use) you should be able to reach -70 °C (-94 °F) in your cooling bath. Also if you don't have any exposed plastics on the inside of your loop (so metal tubing probably) and if the pump uses materials that can handle it, acetone would definitely not freeze over with any amount of dry ice you use. But acetone dissolves certain plasticisers and makes some plastics brittle and break eventually.
I really enjoy your clips.Happy i found your channel!
Rather than feeding the LN into the liquid going through the loop, sit a metal coil potion of the loop in the LN and feed that cooled liquid through the rest of the loop to the CPU.
or even just a submersed radiator
Yeah better off to run a metal coil in the bucket that way you don’t have to worry about it sucking the carbon dioxide through the loop
I was going to say that I didn’t think the Dry Ice should touch the glycol. Maybe the reservoir inside of a second bucket so that the dry ice surrounds the liquid but doesn’t touch the liquid. Using the radiator in the bucket could also work.
Basically ice bucket cooling with Dry Ice.
I think you should do it like you're melting chocolate have the reserve set down in the dry ice water and be totally separate but the dry ice water cooling down the pot
6:19
"Get to the choppa" Style
XD
Hey something I've seen other people use is winter washer fluid. Its really thin but good down to -40c. Awesome video!
Jay scraping on the dry ice gave me goose bumps...
Jay: I'll figure out what to do with all this dry ice.
Dry ice screaming intensifies.
12:12 dons’t hurt you to like the video. Me at 1:04 am liking the video, but then having the phone hit my face. I want compensation
Thank you for the fun,over the top content. We sure need it !
Jay, I work with industrial pumps daily, and have worked on Ice slurry machines. You may want to add a filter on the suction side of the pump in conjuction with the dry ice filter. Also you could use a pump that handles more viscous materials rather than a standard cpu cooling pump. Something like a March pump, or some type of circulation pump that is rated for chemical usage would easily do the trick.
7:30
Dry ice is indeed solidified carbon dioxide
And wet ice is solified dihydrogen monoxide
@@RMeitzen I prefer liquid dihydrogen monoxide with cubes of solid dihydrogen monoxide
@@WayStedYou I'll take my cubes in something with C2H5OH.
im not smart enough to be here
So toxic. Careful kids.
I think the last time I Googled, "Bat Shit Crazy" I got a link to Jay.
so cool ;-)
Gotta love J's growler face at 6:17
Jay, just use a Rad: Place the the rad in a pool of antifreeze/dry ice mix, and run your antifreeze loop through the rad. The rad will act as a heat exchange between the loop and the cold sink.
Jay, on your behalf I finally ordered myself one of those... TRUSTY IFIXIIIIIT kits, definitely worth the price 👌🏻
*6:13** this is the most Jay thing I’ve ever seen*
In addition to creating a block with much less restrictive flowpath and more mass (or rather, a bit more liquid volume), you'll want to reduce the flow restrictions in the rest of the loop. Big ID tubing and fittings, eliminate as many unneccessary sharp bends, 90/180 fittings and so on, as possible. I wouldn't worry about the comparison to LN2 pots too much, gotta remember that one of the reasons those pots need such a huge mass, is that the unlike a liquid cooling block/loop, the thermal transfer medium in an LN2 setup doesn't _circulate_ through and away from the pot, exchanging/shedding the thermal energy somewhere else away from the heat source. It all happens right at / around the source. A circulating liquid cooling loop can get away with far less mass foe the interfscing block, because the block itself doesn't need to soak up a lot of heat. The liquid does. The shedding of heat from the system doesn't actually happen at/very close to the source, but is rather rapidly and continously transported _away_ from the source area and exchanged to the environment somewhere else.
Another thing to consider, is whether or not the viscosity and lubricating properties of the cold glycol mix, is negatively impacting the way the D5 pump's impeller driving works. If you have one available, maybe try a pump with a fixed-to-axle impeller rather than a floating one?
Bachelors in Mechanical Engineering:
A thicker block will not help unless you are doing super short burst runs. The increased thermal insulation from the added material will outweigh the larger chilled mass quickly. More optimal would be a thinner block with thicker cooling channels to allow for the thicker antifreeze. You can use a finned design like stock with fins spaced farther apart (a winding channel as mentioned elsewhere would work, but wouldn't be as efficient). Even better would be to have direct contact of the antifreeze to the CPU, such as having a block with an open bottom and O-ring on the bottom face to seal it on the CPU directly, though that could get messy.
3:32 is the best thing I’ve ever seen on this channel, I’m not sure how he’s calling it a mistake.
LMAO XD
"This is my biggest failure yet..." That's a bold statement.
The motherboard drilling incident.
Or the "ripped an smd off a titan rtx" incident
@@Wereskeleton Damn... you beat me to it...
Ive had an idea like this for a long time. Glad to see it done.
Remind me of old time. Remember old water block design such as danger den, etc? They worked decent for what you were attempting using water chiller.
Sometimes I watch these videos just for the laughs 😂🤣
Always makes my day 😂
"I didn't know what to do, I just sticked my finger in" JayzSexTips
On your pumps, place a fin heat sink with 2 cooling fans, this should help with the build up of condensation .
We at Farver-TRONICS Inc., are working on sub cooling in a vacuumed environment (SCVE)
in ways, we are working with extreme cooling, with no condensation, in the SCVE
I haven't completed watching the video, but had to say that Jay, these experiment video are hugely entertaining. Seriously. I love these, so keep doing them!
6:19 JayZ Two Schwarzenegger
Jay is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY taller.
xdddd
“Punch Steve in his hair!” Lmao! Awesome Jay!
16:48 .......... That color is perfect for an Ryzen & Aorus build ! And it's also the color of my favorite country .... Holland !
Jay, instead of the shop towels around the socket, use Krylon spray paint. SOOOO much easier. Just get clear enamel and coat the sucker. It will protect versus any condensation.
I've had my science license taken away from me by the accreditation group of my profession, but I wanted to tell you that I truly do enjoy your videos. I love the chemistry you have with Phil. Your work is much more entertaining and engaging than so many other of your peers. Thank you for what you do. Please do not get disheartened by experimental design failure. Your science is right. You perhaps do not have the tools/equipment necessary to prove it yet.
Why did you get your license taken away?
everyone: having a longer gpu then the motherboard itself
jay: 4:55
Mine is shorter, a Mirco atx board with a mini itx 1660 super
amd vs intel...blue pill vs red pill.......i would choose intel....for gaming for now atleast ..........whatts your choice
@@masternobody1896 tell me more about Intel graphics cards.
@@SullySadface look at amd and nvidia...lol...intel is a cpu
love the experiment!! keep trying new things.
The freezing point point pure ethanol alcohol is -114 C (-173.2 F). Dry ice sublimates at -78.5°C (-109.3°F). If I were doing this project I would make a heat exchanger. Have a pot full of pure ethanol (or as close as you can get it). Run a copper loop through the ethanol in the pot with as many loops as you can get. Fill the loop with ethanol ( the challenge will be getting pure ethanol. You could use high proof alcohol like everclear, but you may have to do a freeze distillation to get rid of the water. That would require experimentation.) and pump the ethanol through the loops in the pot full of ethanol (closed loop into the heat exhanger). Keep in mind also that the viscosity of ethanol at -50c is roughly 3 times that of water at STP. Your pumps will be working hard and may fail. You may have to choose a different type of pump. Also, the bubbling dry ice will produce a lot of ethanol vapor. You will need to exhaust those gasses or you may be making a potentially explosive air mixture. I'd use a pressure cooker to hold the heat exchanger, and drill & tap a large diameter hole (at least an inch), and attach that to a hose I'd run to the bottom of a 5 gallon drinking water jug. Exhaust the gases that bubble up through the water. The main concern is buildup of potentially explosive vapors, oxygen displacing gases, and intoxicants in the air you are breathing.
But exhausting the gases bubbling up through the water will solve that.
So fill the closed loop with ethanol. 3/4 fill the pot (heat exchanger). Immerse the copper loops in the ethanol in the pot. Drop in the dry ice Close & secure the lid (not a risk for explosion because the vapors are being forced out through the hose). Either directly duct that hose to open air outside, or bubble through water and then exhaust the gases with a fan.
You should be able to drive the temps of the ethanol down to -70 or even cooler without freezing the ethanol.
The Arnold impersonation was on point. I’m still laughing.😂
It was impressively accurate
"When I don't know what to do I just stick my finger in." - JayzTwoCents 2020
Her feedback: (Smiles)
As the great Adam Savage is fond of saying "failure is always an option" plus you learn way more from your failures. I can't wait to see what you come up with next!!
I studied chemistry at university, we used to use dry ice in acetone as a controlled -74°C liquid. No viscosity. Ideal. It can melt some plastics/rubbers though, so you'll need metal tubing, and silicone grease to protect all of the o-rings
But it's been 9 years since I graduated, and I've not used my degree since, so definitely do more research before blindly jumping in 😅
Thumbnail: Compete Fialure
Me: *COMPLETE FAILURE*
Wow you're a genius they should preserve your brain in a museum
It still says compete
Pretty sure it was misspelled deliberately
My brain auto-corrected the thumb!
please misspell correctly next time
Being a career mechanic I can taste the antifreeze though the screen
Dry ice is frozen C02 which is heavier than air. You need to put some cardboard or a barrier around your table or the setup (making a large container to capture the dry air) so when the C02 out gasses you then capture the C02 so you have a "dry" environment and won't get the frost. You can see C02 heavier than air by taking a lit candle in a jar then take a glass and put some vinegar and baking soda together. After it is done fizzing you can pour the C02 in the glass into the jar with the candle to put it out. (not pouring the liquid part, just the gas part.) At work when we use LN2 to make things cold we also have CDA (clean dry air) around the setup to prevent frosting. Our CDA is rated at -100C for not frosting, meaning it is really dry. If we need colder we use straight N2 gas as an air shower. Also I don't think you need to make your CPU plate thicker, you need to get a plate made with bigger fins so you can get coolant flow across the entire block with a lot of surface area for the fluid to transfer the heat. Without the fins (removing the forcing plate you mostly take them out of the equation) you have lost a lot of the heat transfer capability.
I find this video "quite entertaining" Jay! Thanks for the laughs!
last time I was this early Intel was dominating
Damn last time I was this late intel was on 14 nm.
Charles McCarty 🔥ouch🔥
last time I was this early, Intel was still the best for gaming... ohh wait they still are.
@@Bunster By a very small margin...meanwhile the adults are using ThreadRippers for anything productivity related, i.e. real work.
@@whorutothink The 10900k gets 30 fps more than a 3900x in most games, that's not a very small margin, and just because you don't need a pc for work doesn't mean you aren't an adult, that's a very closed minded, childish thing to say.
who else watches jay just to hear jay sounds that he makes
there is a song in there ...
This was a wild ride from start to finish, Jay. You outdid yourself, you crazy son of a gun!
Jay is their best customer, I hope he has joined their Rewards program.
Dry Ice is just frozen CO2 - so all you're doing is returning it to the gaseous form which is Carbon Dioxide.
And CO2 is not solid or liquid in its natural state?
@@DarkBloodLP what is natural state?
@@DarkBloodLP No, it's a gas. One of the most commonly known ones
@@icekatta Matter at room temperature pretty much. If you find it out in the wild on a warmish day, is it a solid, liquid or a gas
@@DarkBloodLP you're probably confused with C (carbon), CO2 is a gas. There's a video on youtube from NileRed who turns diamonds (carbon) into CO2 to make sparkling water (spoiler: it doesn't taste any different).
Hey jay I love what u do and u inspired me to build my own pc building company
Hey jay my company is just starting up but we’re getting bigger slowly and my dream was for one day we work together and do something amazing anyway thanks for the amazing content i love u man keep doing what your doing
If you're going to get it machined anyway, I'd just take the bracket from the existing block, machine a billet into a block with a lip that holds the bracket at the same height off the socket, so you don't need to mess with the retention system someone already thought through. I'd then machine a larger flow cavity into the block so that you still have a large mass of metal as a heat reservoir, but also give more surface area for the coolant to transfer heat off the metal. Then add a lid that has holes for the fittings. Yes. we're already several operations deep and you need to add a seal between the block and the lid etc., but I think it'd still prolly be worth it.
I hit the like button and it shocked me Jay. Thanks.
Breaking News: General Motors Approves Dex Cool coolant for PC dry ice loops.
GM can barely stay in business. Not listening to this jackwagons.
“Science license” best part of the video 😂😂
i love the fail/problem videos as you learn more
this is awesome to watch two cent jay ALL DA WAY FROM SOUTH AFRICA
Jay: *Messes up board.*
Jay: I'm never gonna financially recover from this.
Something really obvious that you're missing...?
Call Linus, he would be happy to help you with block machining👍
De8auer would be my first call...
Just don't let him hold it when it's done.
I immediately thought of the experience that Alex now has with designing his own blocks (for the Red camera)
L O C K D O W N
Yes! Give Alex some more excuses to play in his new dream shop! Love the Maker style content.
A real world example by a first time builder. A 3950x in a Lian Li 011 air with 360 aio mounted as side exhaust, 9 high static pressure 120mm fans as intake using dust filters. The theory that I wanted to test is if a higher case pressure would help the radiator fans move more air. Thermal results: stock at idle +7c over ambient, 100% cpu load +39c : PBO +49c: 4.4GHz on first 8 cores - 4.2GHz on second 8 cores 1.275v +62c. 4.4/4.3 1.35v was stable but ran too hot and was terminated at 90c after a few minutes. These results were with an MSI B450 Tomahawk Max and with power scaling (0-255) set at 150.
hey jay you could just run the fluid through a rad and set the dry ice on the finstack. it would transfer all the cold to the fluid without the most violent boiling. and also avoid any bubbles going into the loop.
no one:
The thumbnail: COMPLETE FIALURE
compete
These are the children that get to play with $3000 dollar CPUs.
I’m jealous
Have you thought of adding a pre-heater to the loop? E.g. a metal pipe between the chilled coolant and the pump to control the coolant temp prior to the system being under load? This would ensure that you can keep the coolant moving through the pump and through the rest of the loop until you can get into overclocking and applying a load that would balance the temp? Alternatively, run the hose through a bucket of warm/hot-ish water before it hits the pump. As far as experiments go, I'd like to see the results.
Always entertaining thanx J