3 Easy Ways To Maintain Cast Iron Tools
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- čas přidán 19. 08. 2020
- Rust isn't pretty but isn't too hard to remove either. Here are three ways to remove and KEEP rust off your machines.
THE TOOLS THAT I USED IN THIS VIDEO:
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The Disks I Used On The Sander- lddy.no/of48
400 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper- amzn.to/2Q9rDav
Boeshield T-9 Rust Protection- amzn.to/3ggqcBH
Minwax Paste Wax- amzn.to/3iZj8uT
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Fluid Film is the key here....spray a light to heavy coating on it and leave it sit for a couple of hours and come back and lightly wipe it down with a dry cloth and you are golden...do this once a year and never have rust. Make everything nice and smooth too - it is a lubricant and preventer. This is after you get the tops rust free of course. I even spray this stuff on the undercarriage of my truck - works great at keeping the rust a bay! Fluid film has been around since the 50's i think. Good stuff - you can usually find it at Lowes. Happy Polishing! "Wax-on, wax-off!"
A couple of things.... first, thanks for the continued great videos. I love the 'conversational' type of content you put out and the straightforward way of putting it out.... Next, huge kudos to you on having the balls to take an orbital sander to a new $2K+ table saw. I had the same thing (sweat) happen to me the first week I owned a $600 delta and it took all I could do to take the orbital sander to mine last year. I've been using the same method and over a year later, no 'dips' or hollows in the top. Great tips as always. Keep doing what you do!!
I do almost the same thing. Except I use the maroon scotch bright pads with a sanding block. Most of the time I can let it go about 6 months without any worry. It’s like getting a brand new tool when you’re done 😊.
I love your video's Jody, thank you for all your great content. You had one awhile back that helped me out immensely, thank you for that,. I started searching table saw rust due to the fact I left some damp wood on my saw and was horrified the next day when i saw the rust when I moved it. That is how I came to this video. I appreciate all the youtubers out there willing to share their knowledge. After all if it wasn't for CZcams University I would have never gotten into woodworking or gained the knowledge to even start woodworking.
Not to be difficult. I have had my tablesaw for over 25 years. Once a week I will clean the entire top with acetone. I will rewax with Johnson’s paste wax. It is very important that you set up a maintenance schedule on your equipment and stick to it. The information that you provided is something all shop owners should understand. Thank you for sharing. Please take care and be safe.
Recently bought a used delta contractor saw top was in rough shape not left out in the rain like some I saw on line but definitely used as a workbench more than a table saw. Surface was super rough light rust spots paint and stain residue all over. Sprayed with wd40 and hand sanded an even amount over the whole top with 400 grit wet and dry paper. Did 2 rounds over the top using 3 1/4 sheet pieces each round. Wiping off and reapplying wd40 between each sand paper change. Cleaned the top with rubbing alcohol and a clean rag. Did two coats of minwax paste wax and 3 weeks later the top is still super slick even after going through a couple sheets of mdf and half my scrap pieces of plywood making several new jigs for the saw and a couple hunny do projects. There’s still several rust spots visible but they have no effect on the operation of the saw. I can’t even feel a difference when I run my fingers over them so I don’t worry about those. The saw is 30 years old I’m more interested in finding a new v belt than worrying about a rust spot or two.
Hey you might want try renaissance wax it’s a little pricy but it stays on you table surfaces a lot longer than normal wax.
You need very little for it to work. Good video by the way. I use t-9 as the cleaner sealer before the wax.
Awesome. I never gave this much thought before but this was an eye opener! Thanks!
Yes anyone said steel wool, say 00 grade, yet?
Add your cleaner and it works well for me.
Oh, vacuum well and run an old speaker magnet in a sock over the lot, just before the wax step.
Great work as usual and found this video at the right time. Not only the table saw but also jointer, planer, & ban saw are in need of a good cleaning. Thanks again!
I have been using this method for years. As you say, if there is rust start with a fine grit, you don't want to lay down a bunch of scratches that will be a bear to rub out. I use Boeshield as my normal end of session protector. I live in the snow belt midwest, and my shop is in a detached, unheated garage. Boeshield works great for putting down a barrier, very important in early spring when humidity is high and the tools are quite cold. I use exactly the same wax, and have experimented with putting on a day or two after the Boeshield, which works well, but right away not. I tried putting wax first, then the spray, but that sort of dissolves the wax and doesn't dry evenly. I have been doing this for about 25 years to good results. I did find that there are differences in effectiveness on various cast iron. I get some rust on a 20 year old Dewalt Jointer (China) if I let it go all winter. Ditto on a Jet lathe. The Italian made Laguna bandsaw faired very well, in that even in very severe temp changed, it next to the roll up door, so heavy exposure to the humidity, it showed little tendency to rust. The best performer is a 24" Delta scroll saw from 1946. It was my grandfathers, and I even have the original manual. It is also close to the outside door, and even though I only use it for maybe 20 minutes once a year it is smooth as a baby's bottom. I do one other thing, I put a heavy rag over these surfaces when I am done. I think this acts as a barrier to the humidity. I don't oil the rags. They are the blue cotton type used in hospitals to soak up all kinds of fluids, and are often thrown out unused. A machine cover tarp would do the same thing, but I'm too cheap to get a fitted cover for every tool.
Great video and great information. Keep it up. I’ve been using Boeshield both alone and over paste wax for years and it works great.
I've been waiting to long for this kind of video!!!!! Thanks
Lol, you guys are too much in love with your sawstops; I use that T9 or whatever that thing is called to take out the rust, might be left a stain or spot where the rust was, but I never ever send my table saws, also don't get to the point of sending them either; I guess if one things of their saw as a piece of furniture, one can polish the crap out of it, but if you busy producing stuff, you don't really focus on the mirror shine of the table saw top; I got two sawstops, one 5hp and one 3hp, they sit back to back with a 3' table between as I use that for assembly as well, when one builds cabinets constant, you use any level flat area for assembly; as I was saying, the 3hp is dedicated dado station and the 5hp is the main rip saw; back in the day I had the slide saws, but as It was easy to rip 4x8 and 5x10 sheaths, it was a pain in the ass for the rest, I couldn't use the space for anything else, so first I switched to powermatic and when sawstop came about with their electronic safety advantage, I switched my table saws to sawstop; I don't mean no disrespect but when I run across you guys babysitting your saws, I can't help but to smile, because that takes away from the opportunity for you guys to make money with those saws, after all that is why we make those hefty investments, isn't it?
Respectfully
Dan
Thanks for the tips! Always great info coming from you! Thank you! 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
Boshield T9 works great. It's magic. I keep a can in my shop all the time.
I agree. I use this also. It works well.
Naptha works good too. T9 works great for cast iron
Great tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I used mineral spirits and pastewax but was nervous about sanding my new saw so this video was cool 😎 👍🏼
Great video - I've used a random orbit as well with decent results. On the T-9 Boeshield: here in Virginia, the humidity gets insane. I like to clean the saw bed, then spray it with the T-9 and wipe it into a thin layer. I've noted the best result is if I can leave that overnight, then re-wipe in the morning and then wax the crap out of the saw... commenters below are correct - the T-9 isn't a wax substitute. It does penetrate the grain of the iron and you'll find you're not doing cast iron maintenance as often. I'd also recommend a canvas tarp over the saw between projects, or over humid nights.
Very helpful video. Thanks so much. QUESTION! Would you consider using isopropyl alcohol to clean you cast iron tops?
Thanks,
Jim
Great video. I’ll try the orbital sander but I was surprised to see it here at first. All your cautionary comments alleviated that shock.
The wax I use is Bostick and it works really good. Little expensive, but my shop is my baby, and don’t mind spending the extra. Good vid.
Once again, an interesting and helpful subject delivered in a way that encourages people to take on board the ideas that you discuss. A perspective from the UK. I have always cleaned my cast iron surfaces using a rotary sander with 240 grit paper. I’ve dried various waxes for the finish and have come back to Liberon machine wax. If you have another product you prefer, then stick with it. If you haven’t found a product you like, perhaps give Liberon a go.
You might also try Penetrol made by Flood products. It is a paint conditioner but when spread on cast iron dries to a ultra thin layer. I tested on my AC compressor (outside in Florida) it lasted over 5 years and could not be detected except by a bright shiny spot in the middle of a rusty spot. I paint or dip all my hand tools and brush it on my table surfaces. After 40 years no rust. Read the can of Penetrol it lists this exact use. I was tipped to it by an old time carpenter/machinist.
When I got my tablesaw about 5 or 6 years ago I immediately put polyurethane clear coat on it. There's been no rust until this past summer when I left a piece of freshly cut mahogany on it over night. When I came out the next morning there was a huge rust spot where the wood was. I used the 400grit wet sandpaper with wd40 to clean it then mineral spirits then the clear coat again. I like the poly clear coat because it lasted a long time.
Gracias thank you
Great stuff! I have been using mineral spirits, then WD-40, then paste wax. Just recently tried using T9 with their rust remover (came in a set). The rust remover was insanely good (smells horrible though!). Just looking at how easily wood glides over it, the paste wax actually seems better, although not by much. I’m happy with both ways of cleaning and treating my table tops though. Thanks for sharing!
Thank You 👍✅
I'll double down on the sandflex blocks. They are amazing, cheap, and easy to clean rust off any of your tools.
I have been using Boeshield for a few years it appears to provide better protection and easier application then paste wax but considerably more expensive but I feel that it is worth the added cost for the ease of application and apparently better protection
Been wanting to try glide coat, too. Ever used it? At about 24.00/can wasn't willing to begin there.
I use acetone instead of denatured alcohol. Can you get that in CA? It is a bit more "aggressive" than alcohol and flashes faster, but it's excellent for degreasing tools.
Also, if you live in a humid environment like me (Georgia) throw a tablecloth over your saw when you are not using it. This alone does wonders for keeping the surface free of rust. Tablecloth and Boeshield are my method for all my tools (bandsaw, tablesaw, scroll saw etc.).
you plan on getting the JessEm Stock guides at all?
Check out Franklin's woodworks, I just watched him taking care of cast Iron table saw tops. He also had some good words on prevention from rusted tops.
The Boeshield Rust-Free and T9 work great on all metals in the shop. T9 is wax and solvent, and will last a long time without having to reapply. I use 000 or 0000 steel wool to clean rust with the Rust-Free and wipe down the T9 with a clean cloth.
I have sealed my services with a Krylon clearcoat. It’s probably some sort of an acrylic. Works great very slippery. I’ve also heard of people using poly urethane
I bought my indentured alcohol last week on Amazon. I live in Orange County, CA.
Yep, I've been using the Sandflex blocks for years. Each machine - table saw, bandsaw, jointer - with a cast iron surface has one in a drawer nearby. Don't have a big rust problem and these help me not to have one.
Maybe substitute Everclear (available at finer liquor stores -- even in California) for denatured alcohol?
Picked up some T-9 this weekend from Rockler in Pasadena. Looking forward to seeing my old Shop Fox W1677 shine again. I used WD40 to remove rust last time around but I didn’t like the mess it made. I’m gonna try your technique and see how it goes. Thanks for the tips!
So how did the T-9 work for you?
@@georgeyoungapts it was much better than the WD-40. Been using it ever since.
@@ederorellana9919 Thanks. I have some Boeshield left over from years ago--so I just reordcered new product in case the old weakened.
I used a sanding block and wd40 on my 113 and on my shopsmith mark v and it was pretty gnarly when I started
Great vid thanks. I'm not sure if you can get it in the US, but Silbergleit is an awesome product, protects and super slick. Something else to consider. Thanks
I grew up with a cast iron table saw in the basement. Since rust is higher than the flat surface and since removing it means the surface is less flat I used a razor blade to remove the harmful rust. Mere discoloration is not a problem. I had a flat, smooth table.
Boeshield T-9 is a light paraffin wax in a solvent. Alcohol or any other solvent that dissolves grease or oil will dissolve the Boeshield and then you can wipe it off. There is nothing “hi-tech” about Boeshield. It’s just a quick way to temporarily protect metal surfaces.
A paste finishing wax such as Johnson’s or Minwax is based upon a heavier, thicker wax. Minwax is paraffin, mineral spirits and turpentine. Johnson’s is also paraffin-based but it uses different petroleum solvents. A paste wax will provide a more durable, slicker finish than the Boeshield.
Camp stove fuel is a good substitute for the denatured alcohol...
When you use your orbital sander, any worries about the slurry gunking up the internal vacuum compartments of the sander?
I worried about this too, tried to get paper without holes
Also had the problems with sweat-drips and fingerprints and than a tubebreak (water) in the workshop. Only the humidity and i had a fine layer of rust on the saw. I 've used a 1000 grid on an orbital sander and after one hour the saw looks better then new. Then i used silicon-oil-spray. This was the best thing. The saw-table was absolutely smooth the are no oil stains on the wood. Only my experience.
In Germany there is often used a chemical named 'Silber Gleit' for such layer. But it's not really good against such rust.
Alfred Neumann have you tried to finish anything after being on the saw. My experience is silicon is almost impossible to remove. If it is on an area to finish it will cause practically any finish to fish eye. For that reason silicon in any form is not allowed in my shop.
@@edblough4134 Yes, for example i renovated a little children seat. After sawing i had to sand it more times and i use 1 times beech color and 3 or 4 times lacquer, with sandings between of course. Had no Problem. Between Silicon oiling and first new work, were some days. So i don't know, if this importand.
MiniWax is a great economical solution-needs to be reapplied once a week.
Boeshield should be re-applied once a month.
For a long term rust preventive use Cosmoline RP-342-The Military use it for long term gun storage.
I have been watching videos and trying stuff. I have been using Collinite 476s. It’s a permanent automotive wax. Works amazing and so far no rust. I have done all my machines and it leaves no waxy film like boshield
I use Colliniye on my boat hull and it is awesome. After 12 months wster still beading.
John Norris Bosield is sold in marine stores. Been around for years. Think it is machine oil with wax.
I have a Ridgid saw has a granite top just wax it and go, but it does weigh in at 460 lbs.
I use Boeshield and find that it works better and lasts longer than paste wax.
You could also start to look at your workshop humidity?
I feel like SawStop should just include paste wax with all their saws.
Auto parts store or walmart might have have a product called Heet, it's an automotive fuel line water remover. Guess what it is? Denatured alcohol. It comes in a yellow bottle with a blue lettered label.
a layer of t9 and let it dry and buff it and then a few layers of wax and buff it. Its amazing but t9 can take forever to dry.
I need denatured alcohol as solvent for shellac. Eventually I ordered it through Amazon which was shipped w/o any issues.
In my opinion denatured alcohol is better for us and the environment than mineral spirit but what do I know - I just studied Chemistry and Physics
I wondered if it would work being shipped. Thanks a ton for mentioning this. I’m not educated enough to know the chemistry behind this stuff, but I do know I like denatured alcohol better than almost anything when it comes to cleaning, especially anything residue-like. Mineral spirits is oily or something in comparison.
I wondered if it would work being shipped. Thanks a ton for mentioning this. I’m not educated enough to know the chemistry behind this stuff, but I do know I like denatured alcohol better than almost anything when it comes to cleaning, especially anything residue-like. Mineral spirits is oily or something in comparison.
I use an old 1/4 sheet sander and place a scotch-brite pad under it, Pb-blazer once over. Clean with Acetone (not alcohol because the alcohol absorbs moisture from the air) then johnson paste wax. I bought the bo-shield and am not impressed. I used it on my drill press column and table and it didn’t do as good as Pb-blaster. I’ll stay with readily available Pb-blaster for iron I don’t wax.
I use boshield. The second time I used it I decided to spray it directly on a few rust spots and let it sit thinking that would give the solution more time to break down the rust. It was a bad idea. It certainly got the rust off but it etched a splatter mark on my cast iron top. My saw stop is rust free but it looks like someone spit acid across my table top. It’s maddening. Directions on the bottle say to put some of the solution on a rag and wipe down the surface. My mistake. The wax is a must, especially if you use a cross cut sled. Does anyone know what to use on the table top to remove the wax layer to get to the bare cast iron? Would that be mineral spirits?
I personally much prefer using Scotch Bright and an electric buffer, it give a mirror like finish in no time and then car wax.
Thank you for the video
Which color scotch bright pads do you use?
@InspireWoodcraft, which of those Sandflex hand blocks did you use?
I found that the fine block works well for almost all situations for me, and then the medium one for a little bit tougher spots. I haven’t even used the course one yet!
@@InspireWoodcraft thank you!
I live in SoCal, just got my SawStop PCS to replace my old Delta Unisaw (too old now to risk fingers I still have). Touched the top a bit, wound up with marks that progessed to VERY light rust. Viewed the maintenAnce video by Trent Davis, www.trentdavis.net/2017/06/13/tool-maintenance-protecting-cast-iron-tabletop/ and used WD 40 and Scotchbrite pad (equal to OOOO) then KleanStrip lacquer (close to denatured etoh--which CA banned due to vocs). Wiped it Dry. Since Sawstop suggests wax with mostly Carnauba wax, got P21-S from Amazon, used that. Today I see some light rust again. This really sucks. I guess I'll try the Boeshield. Any better ideas out there?
My solution to this problem is just to get a harvey gold tin coated table saw... guess we will see how well it holds up
Anyone try Barkeeper’s Friend and a paper towel or a buffing pad on a random orbital sander?
Taking a carpentry class and my instructor said that OSHA outlawed pastewax on tablesaws because it makes it slide too freely. Me: walking away with my best outlaw laugh....
Man I just bought my new power matric table saw and got it set up, not even a week old, there was a leak in my roof that I wasn't aware of and it dripped all over my beautiful new cast iron top.....ugh thanks for the tips I'll give it a shot
Boeshield T9 works great but it doesn't make it nice and slippery like paste wax does
I've heard of people sealing their cast iron tops with T-9 and then putting past wax over it.
I use isopropyl alcohol for cleaning never had a problem.
WTF, another thing banned in Cali? I really need to move
LordHog Before long they will be out lawing hydrogen dioxide in Comyfornia 🤣🛫
Pledge...
I wipe my equipment down with silicone lubricant. Just avoids rust altogether and greatly reduces friction
Sucks to live in the People's Republic of California.
Boe Shield works for me and they also have a chemical rust remover so you don't have to abrade your table top. If paste wax doesn't work for you, also try carnuba wax. Clear coat it like a car and that would be a very durable protectant.
DNA not available in California? What a joke. 3 pack of Sanding blocks on Amazon for $11.50
It's strange to me why you wouldn't have treated the cast iron on your new Saw Stop so as to minimize the chances for it to rust.
Cali Freakin Fornia. SMH
4th way: move to the desert. We almost never have to deal with rust in the southwest.
LMAO You can't even buy denatured alcohol in Commie-Fornia. That's hilarious.