How To Flush & Bleed ABS Brakes On Harley Davidson M8 Softails & Tourers
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Here I discuss and show step by step how to perform a complete brake flush and bleed of the brakes and ABS module on Harley Davidson motorcycles with the Milwaukee Eight engine, be that the tourers or the softballs.
#RevelatorAlf #HarleySoftailABS #H-DABSBrakeFlush
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Thanks for watching. Let me know what you think in the comments below. More videos like this here: czcams.com/play/PLmgCmljtdCzWMExyPXgSeeJZYwOA1Ocj7.html
had seen a vid of yours recently where you acquired a DTT Twin Scan, any plans of doing this video using that method? ( + your thoughts on the approach in this video vs the ability to activate the abs via the can bus? )
The manual states that after a brake flush, the bike needs to go to the dealer for a digital brake calibration for the ABS system. I just did the same method you showed but I used my vacuum pump. When I called the dealership to ask if bringing it in afterwards was necessary, they said… “Well, it’s your life you’re risking, not ours.” I’ve always bled brakes like this and can’t help but think they’re just trying to empty my wallet for what is a pretty simple job.
One of the best "fully explained" brake flush with ABS videos I have watched. Thanks
Tha lnk you for your videos. You're helping me overcome my fear of working on my sport glide. I just replaced my handlebars, extended the wiring and put on a new brake cable. I realize I might have to play the dealership for a brake fluid flush to get out all the air. But thanks to you, I braved it.
You did a great job explaining the process! Well done!
Thanks so much
Thanks Alf, detailed how-to's on the essentials never go amiss.
Cheers Andrew. Hopefully fills in some gaps for some people.
Nice work! Good advice to exercise the abs.
Another very possible project for the average wrench-dropper [me...] and easily done as well. Thanks Alf!
Cheers Charles
Badass man, complete, concise, thanks!
Thanks for the detail. I have switched to the reverse bleed method and it has worked well for me.
Cheers
Yer such an important issue yet can be made simple👌
Absolutely
I would like to know why Harley stopped using DOT 5
DOT 3/4 absorb moisture. DOT 5 is silicon based and does not absorb moisture. Supposedly it has to do with the boiling point. HD went from 5 to 4 when they offered ABS on their bikes.
Great video !!! Perhaps you know how many times you need to activate the ABS in order to fully remove the old fluid from the ABS component ?
thanks very informative and pleasant to watch 👍
Looking forward to the calliper change vid 👍
cheers
Good deal - purchased the check valves with hose clips on eBay
Spot on mate ... very well explained ... I was going to fit the foot peg extension kit which involved removing the brake pipe and was informed by my local HD dealer they would charge £250 for a brake bleed ,because I did not have the equipment to initiate the ABS system, I know this video only covers a brake flush (so no air in the system) but I wonder how much they would charge just for the flush? Cant wait for the 2nd instalment .
Yep I think it’s in the region of £125 which is still a lot. For me this should be included in the price of a 2yr service check cheers
Am intending that very same extention and fully expect to pay harley to bleed the system on top.
Alf you made that look so easy , really good, easier than flushing a toilet. 🤣 Cheers.
Ha ha cheers Rob
Thank You for the informative video. Appreciate it!!
Cheers
My 2023 Harley tri-glide need a change when the bike was 3 months old.
I think this may be costly but just change the line to none abs they all should fit right?
Thanks!
some of y’all need to do a youtube search. there is a better method. push the fluid up towards the cylinder. works perfect for thos of us with ABS systems. Of course, his process works too……and I do like that he used the one-way valve in line with the tubing
Thank you.
Cheers
Could you do a vid on 'how to flush the oil'? Apparently, when just changing the oil, only about 3/4s of it is removed from throughout the system. For a complete change (to really clean it out) you have to flush it (which HD will tell you only they can do ... but I've heard otherwise). Thanks.
Yes I discussed this on the oil service video. Yes perhaps I may show that in the future cheers
Good video it’s a bit of a faff but you know it’s all done and right
Yes indeed cheers
would this be the same process if I know for sure I got air into the system?
Well done. Great information, is that your Ranger, thank you.
Thanks so much. Yep I do like my utility vehicles ha ha
Just FYII. I flushed my lines, then activated the ABS, but skipped the reflush. Two years later (10,000 miles), my fluid tested with no significant moisture. I flushed it again anyway to keep on a two year cycle.
😇 Love the videos mate great job👍
Thanks so much. Glad you’re liking
Would this be the same procedure for a 2016 Road King?
In my experience, after the fluid is replaced, the system flushed, and the brakes bled, the last step is to hook up the scan tool to have the ABS module clear out any air bubbles from the brake lines, which is part of the bleeding process. If the last step is skipped, within a short time, the module will lock up. Air bubbles in the brake lines is not good. My local Harley mechanic only charges me $150.00 (labor) plus another ten bucks for the fluid, which is pretty reasonable. The job takes about an hour or less, and you can keep your anti-lock braking system intact. This really should be done every two years at least. You just need to find a good, trustworthy and knowledgeable mechanic.
No the module wont lock up 🤣. Cars have had ABS for decades now and they dont need to go to a dealer to activate the ABS unit. They are just bled exactly the same way as this and guess what...the brakes dont lock up afterwards! Air bubbles in the brake lines will make your brakes spongy but thats why you run the fluid through until there is no bubbles.
Good video for the basics. I know you're cycling the ABS by using hard braking. I take it you've not had any luck finding an aftermarket tool that cycles the system for you? Or at least one that doesn't cost a fortune.
Unless that is the future video you're talking about.
It is indeed
Where do u get the one-way valve that u use along with the little jubilee clips? I have looked through dozens of the equipment u use but I can’t see where they are. Thank you Bro for posting such a concise video 👍
They are available online. If you go to my products link page on website you should find them there too
I went to ur ‘product link page’ sir and there are dozens of items there but I couldn’t see it. Could u not have just put a link to the one way valve here instead of me going back through them all again which I did and I still couldn’t find. I am more interested in the small pinch jubilee clips u use to air tight the tube. Cheers 👍
I thought the abs only activated when one wheel was trying to lock up. I can feel the sensation in the pedal and/or the lever in the wet or on a gravel road, but dont think anythink happens on the dry sealed road.?
Use the breaks harder. In wet or gravel there is less traction.
Thanks for that Alf. I am struggling a bit though with the efficiency of activating the abs unit. When the system is buttoned down and air free, isnt it just pressurised when brakes applied rather than actually circulating anywhere? How is this moving the old fluid out that is left in the unit on the second run when activating to re bleed? Or does it?
Sounds about right. If there were an extra set of lines going each way then circulation of the fluid would be possible to a small extent. With only one line from the master cylinder and one from the caliper it is not possible for circulation because all the fluid would need to flow out of the line to make way for new fluid to flow down to the caliper in which case there would be a moment of no brakes. So you are correct in saying the fluid is just pressurized. The momentary release of pressure that occurs happens at the ABS pump module. Solenoids open and close at roughly the speed of one tenth of a second relieving the pressure on the fluid in the line while open and restoring the pressure when closed. Many motorcycle manufacturers make no mention of changing or replacing the fluid in the ABS part of the circuit. The main concern is the main circuit from master cylinder to caliper. Change that every two years and all is good. It seems Harley and maybe Bmw are interested in extra ways of bleeding. Won't hurt to brake hard enough to activate the ABS maybe once or twice a year so at least you are practicing stopping quickly and will know in advance what your bike feels like under hard braking.
Don't listen to this BS. Take it to the dealer. Its not that expensive and only every 2 years. There are reasons why it has to be done with the digital technician!
Cost you more in the long run. Maybe even your life!
Excellent job. Did you say you can start continuously hand pumping only after the old fluid gets passed the one way valve? Or you can continuously start hand pumping once everything is connected? I'll shop for the one way tube and valve right away. My fluid on my heritage is 4 years old so I'll test it for moisture today....thanks!
it is pumped after the passage of the arrow, but it is always better, to go step by step. pumped release pumped release, to watch the air
I Alf great video, what size are those clips I'm going to make my own system,just not sure what size spring clips I need
Hmmm I think from memory they are 8mm clips
I had read you need a special Digital Tech tool to activate the abs, but I think I can see where riding and activating the abs should also work. Then repeat the whole bleed process that you need to do anyway.
not absolutely needed no
Great Job! Where did you buy the wind deflectors for the grips?
Try “Memphis shades “ where I got mine for m8 fat Bob.
The Oxford tubing costs *more* than the vacuum kit!
Just buy a vacuum pump at Harbor Fright. Only cost 24 dollars.
It is very important to ensure that you do not empty the master cylinders when you suctioning them out. The Brake fluid has to always be above the pick up in the master cylinder, otherwise you get air into the system.
yep cheers
Let me buy your sportglide bags
What a faff, your bleed is bypassing the ABS unit, then when you activate the ABS your contaminating the new fluid with the fluid in the ABS unit. The idea is to bleed the entire sytem including the ABS unit at the same time. Products like the "Daytona Twin Tech" to activate the ABS unit whilst bleeding costs a lot of money, certainly in the region of 4 harley full brake bleeds.
From my understanding, this why you need to bleed the lines again after activating your ABS x times (but I've no idea how many times you need to activate the ABS)
This is false. You are only bleeding the break lines. The ABS module holds its own bank of fluid. You would need a tool like twin tec twin scan 4 do this job accordingly
Why'd you come here if you know so much?
@@The_Eastbound_Hyena to make sure people like you were told the difference between right n wrong
@@rolandos64 that's what you do with your time? Scour YT for things you can "correct"?
23:24 Huh? If you have access to diagnostics to clear your ABS error code, why in the bloody hell are you wasting time actuating ABS on the street instead of simply using your “diagnostics”?